F C Feb - Mar 2017-P2P

secrets to making the
BEST Nachos, p.62
The Juiciest
Roast Chicken
Youll Ever
Make,p. 20
Slow-Cooker
Short Ribs
Rich Flavor, Less Work
EASy Braised
MEATs All-New
Technique
surprising
vegetables
You Should Be
Roasting
WINTER
ORANGES
Try These
Sweet & Savory
Dishes
4 LentilS
To Love
Beluga, French,
Pardina, and Yellow
February/ MARCH 2017 No.145
www.finecooking.com
Slow-Cooker
Southern-Style Short Ribs
with Pimiento Grits
and Collards, p. 20
2017 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton FL
For over a century an ancient mirror hanging in the Santa Rita Estate
has held the secrets of intimate moments spanning generations.
Santa Rita invites you to share a glass of Secret Reserve Wine.
Red Blend 2013
91 points
[ Best Buy ]
Red Blend 2014

www.CanYouKeepTheSecret.com
Pinot Noir 2015
Wine & Spirits
91 points James Suckling

90 points James Suckling
CONTENTS
f e b r ua ry/ m a r c h 2 0 1 7
issue 145
f e at u r e s
44 Backward Braising
Slow cooking followed by a blast in the
oven creates tender meat with an appealing
crust, all without searing.
By Lynne Curry
52 Citrus Bliss
Oranges help chase away the winter blues
by brightening up dishes both savory and sweet.
By Jamie Schler
62 Nacho Nirvana
A guide to making the most of this
favorite snack
By Joanne Smart
Broccoli rabe ravioli

is impressive yet so
simple to make. Get
the recipe on p.29.
64 For the Love of Lentils

Look beyond the usual brown ones to make a stew,
sides, and even a scallion pancake.
By Marge Perry
72 From Rinds to Riches

Adding a stock made from cheese scraps
to risotto, braises, and more is an easy,
economical way to boost flavor.
By Melissa Pellegrino
80 Vegetables You Should

Be Roasting
Surprise! Green beans, jcama, cabbage,
and artichoke hearts get a flavor boost
from time in a hot oven.
By Diana Andrews
CONTENTS
f e b r ua ry/ m a r c h 2 0 1 7 i s s u e 1 4 5
30
16
90
90
28
Loin
Pork
butt
Picnic
roast
15
91
d e pa r t m e n t s
GREAT FINDS
15 Warming Trends
Our favorite items for the kitchen,
table, and beyond
19 Make It Tonight
Fresh and easy weeknight cooking
3 WAYS WITH...
28 Broccoli Rabe
BOOKS THAT COOK
30 The Reading List

Books that inspire and encourage
home cooks
FOOD SCIENCE
32 Dried Herbs and Spices

Learn how to get the most from these
pantry essentials.
in every issue
GOOD SPIRITS
8
10
10
12
96
97
98
34 A Blend with Benefits

This Scotch whiskey combines the
best of three first-rate spirits.
ON LOCATION
37 Take Me to the River
EDITORS NOTE
CONTRIBUTORS
#FINECOOKING
MENUS
SOURCES
NUTRITION
RECIPE INDEX
An oyster farm on the Rappahannock

delivers sweet, briny bivalves and a
whole lot more.
89 Test Kitchen
p. 62
Tips, techniques, equipment,

ingredients, and more, from
our experts
p. 20
p. 44
p. 80
p. 20
p. 52
p. 64
FINE COOKING FEB/MAR 2017
Cover photograph by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
Contents photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day and Diana Andrews; illustration by Janet Stein
89
W I S C O N S I N
C H E E S E
E a t W i s c o n s i n c h E E s E .c o m
2016 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.
JOIN OUR
EXPLORE OUR RECIPES

on COLAVITARECIPES.COM
facebook.com/ColavitaOliveOil
ColavitaOil
youtube.com/ColavitaOliveOil
@ColavitaOil
ColavitaOliveOil
Colavita Olive Oil
N OT E F R O M T H E E D I TO R
From Our Kitchen to Yours

My sister-in-law, a longtime subscriber to Fine cooking, recently visited
from San Diego and asked if she could have
an inside peek at the test kitchen. We toured
it on a Sunday, so the kitchens were quiet, but
that didnt diminish her thrill of seeing where
the cooking happens. It got me thinking that
she may not be alone in that desire, so heres a
behind-the-scenes look.
Composed of three separate testing
bays, the kitchen is the nerve center of the
magazine. At full steam, our outstanding test
kitchen staff (shown here) can turn out a wide
range of dishes from 18burners, six ovens, and
five packed refrigerators. The kitchen is also
where we gather several times a week to taste
and assess the recipes. We talk about the flavor, texture, and process, as well as effort and
time. And we ask a lot of questions, including:
Would you want to make this dish at home?
Most recipes get adjusted. Often, were
adding the details that make the difference:
a tablespoon of cornstarch to keep a cheesecake from cracking, peeling celery to make
it extra tender when cooked, where to find
dukkah. The recipe gets revised, and then its
tested again. And again. And maybe yet again.
This is to ensure that all Fine Cooking recipes
please you as much as they pleased us, and
that you will have success in your kitchen.
Even after years of being a food writer,
editor, and professional cook, Im always
enlightened by the dialogue around the tasting table. Thanks to the spirited conversation,
I continually learn something new, whether
about an unusual ingredient or brilliant cooking tip. Its these discussions that inspire our
aptly titled Test Kitchen department, starting
on p. 89. Or they are included in a feature
itself. For instance, on p. 72, Melissa Pellegrino shows how to turn cheese rinds into
a savory broth that adds subtle richness to
all kinds of dishes including an outstanding
risotto (p.75) and pasta rag (p.78). While
tasting her recipes, someone wondered
whether, if you dont have rinds on hand, can
you make the same broth with a chunk of
cheese? (You can find the answer on p.74.)
From learning a new way to braise meat
(p.44) to expanding your roasted vegetable
repertoire (p.80), these pages are filled with
carefully written recipes and useful advice
and tips. Whatever Fine Cooking dishes you
choose to make for your family and friends
(and I hope its many), know that theyve all
been test-kitchen approved with you in mind.
Kathy Kingsley, editorial director
@katkings12
At the tasting table: Diana Andrews, Teresa Fernandes, Kathy Kingsley,

Lisa Lahey, Sarah Breckenridge, Ronne Day, and Chris Hoelck.
itorial director
Kathy Kingsley, ed
@finecooking
drews, food editor/

Diana An
test kitchen manager
t kitchen intern
Will Stewart, tes
Joan Velush, test kitchen assiant
Ronne Day, senior

editor/styli
food
Photographs by Scott Phillips
Editorial Director
Art Director
Senior Editor
Food Editor
Senior Copy/
Production Editor
Staff Photographer
Senior Food
Editor/Stylist
Food Editor/
Test Kitchen Manager
Art/Production
Coordinator
Test Kitchen Assistant
Test Kitchen Intern
Kathy Kingsley
Teresa Fernandes
Joanne Smart
Lisa Lahey
Chris Hoelck
Scott Phillips
Ronne Day
Diana Andrews
Tinsley Morrison
Joan Velush
William Stewart
Special Projects
Senior Special Sarah Opdahl
Projects Editor
Associate Art Director Brittany Carlson
FineCooking.com
Senior Web Producer
Video Director
Editors at Large
Contributing Editors
Sarah Breckenridge
Colin Russell
Jennifer Armentrout
Susie Middleton
Abigail Johnson Dodge
Rebecca Freedman
Jill Silverman Hough (drinks)
Nanette Maxim
Tony Rosenfeld
Molly Stevens
To contact us: Fine Cooking

The Taunton Press
63 South Main Street
PO Box 5506
Newtown, CT 06470-5506
Tel: 203-426-8171
Email: fc@taunton.com
Visit: finecooking.com
Submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking
at the address above or Call: 800-309-0744 or Fax:
203-426-3434 Email: fc@taunton.com
Subscribe/ Place an order:
Visit finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 800-888-8286
9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri and 9am-5pm ET Sat
Find out about Fine Cooking products:
Visit finecooking.com/products
Get help with online member services:
Visit finecooking.com/customerservice
Contact Fine Cooking customer service:
Email us at support@customerservice.taunton.com
Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1072-5121) is published six
times a year by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT
06470-5506. Telephone; 203-426-8171.
Periodicals postage paid at Newtown, CT 06470 and
at additional mailing offices. GST paid registration
#123210981.
Subscription Rates: U.S., $29.95 for one year, $49.95
for two years, $69.95 for three years. Canada, $31.95
for one year, $53.95 for two years, $75.95 for three
years (GST included, payable in U.S. funds). Outside
the U.S./Canada: $42 for one year, $72 for two years,
$102 for three years (payable in U.S. funds). Single
copy U.S., $6.95. Single copy Canada, $7.95.
Postmaster: Send address changes to Fine Cooking,
The Taunton Press, Inc., 63 South Main St., PO Box
5506, Newtown, CT 06470-5506.
Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian
addresses to Fine Cooking, c/o Worldwide Mailers,
Inc., 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7, or email to
mnfa@taunton.com.
Printed in the USA
La Baleine Fine Sea Salt. A ne

grind for blending and enhancing
recipes...it brings out the true taste
of food. Its naturally crystallized by
sun and sea breezes in our exclusive
Mediterranean preserve.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M
#finecooking
You talk (or email, post, or pin), and we listen!
Use #finecooking in your social media posts
if youd like to see your words or pictures on
this page in upcoming issues.
Twitter
contributors
Diana Andrews
(Vegetables You Should
Be Roasting, p. 80) is a
graduate of the Institute of
Culinary Education. Shes
also our test kitchen manager and one of our
food editors.
My favorite vegetable to roast is green
beans, because I never get tired of the sweet,
nutty flavor they develop in the oven.
The three things always in my fridge are

kimchi, Sriracha, and lemons.
My culinary heroes are Yotam Ottolenghi

(my current hero); and Eric Ripert and
Thomas Keller (my forever heroes).
@KarynRatcliffe: Let the #holiday #baking
#begin! We can diet in January. Todays
recipe: Vanilla-Bean Sabl Cookies (April
May 2012) from #FineCooking.
In our inbox
Dear FC: Thank you! I really enjoy your
magazine. Due to clarity of writing and
recipes, my husband helps with cooking
more frequently.
Rheba Vetter Flintstone Georgia
Instagram
@realivingitup
alternatively:
Satsuma Cranberry Sauce
(OctNov 2016).
Bottle up the
good stuff!
Frequent contributor
Erica Clark (Make It
Tonight, p. 19) is a former
magazine food editor
turned recipe developer,
tester, and food writer. You can find her
online at StoneKitchenCreative.com.
My go-to ingredient is... a runny fried egg.
Ill pretty much put one on anything and
call it dinner.
My go-to dessert is... the Almond Cake from
Alice Medrichs Pure Dessert. Its not the most
impressive dessert to look at, but one bite and
everyone is hooked. Plus, its easy: The batter
is made entirely in a food processor.
My favorite part of recipe development
is... taking the first bite of a new recipe. Its
exciting to know if Ive nailed a dish or if its

back to the drawing board.
Do you want to appear in Fine Cooking?

Tweet @finecooking with your favorite
rainbow chard recipe ideas (#finecooking,
#rainbowchard),
#rainbowchard
and we might feature your idea in
an upcoming issue.
Not on Twitter?
Email your ideas to
fc@taunton.com.
Digital Editions
Download the tablet
edition app at Fine
Cooking.com/app.
Its available for iPad,
Windows, and Android
devices. Access is free
with your subscription.
10
Melissa Pellegrino
(From Rinds to Riches,
p. 72) and her husband,
Matt Scialabba, are the
chef-owners of Bufalina, a
wood-fired pizzeria in Guilford, Connecticut.
My go-to snow-day comfort food is...
chicken soupor any kind of soup, for

that matter.
My latest kitchen purchase was... handmade steak knives that I bought from
an elderly couple on the side of the road
in Portugal.
The dish I want to learn to cook is... ramen.
Lynne Curry (Backward Braising, p. 44) is a

freelance food journalist,
professional cook, and
blogger who lives with her
family in the mountains of eastern Oregon.
She is the author of Pure Beef and is working
on her next book, which is about pastureraised meats and poultry.
I love living in Oregon because... we have
enough climate zones and mountain ranges
to find good skiing most months of the year.
When Im not cooking, I like to... go skiing
with my kids at our volunteer-run ski
area. I also like to work on my food photography skills.
My go-to comfort food is... cheese and
crackers with red wine.
Marge Perry (For the
Love of Lentils, p. 64) is an
award-winning food writer.
She chronicles her adventures in food, travel, and life
in her blog, ASweetandSavoryLife.com.
My favorite lentil variety is caviar lentils,
which are as beautiful as they are flavorful.
My favorite movie about food is Like
Water for Chocolate, which, like me, views
life through the lens of food.
The food trend that needs to end is

making pumpkin-spice versions of
nearly everything.
Photographer Mark
Boughton (Moveable
Feast, p. 37) is based in
Nashville, Tennessee. His
love of travel has allowed
him to discover many small American farms
and restaurants. Mark also likes discovering
interesting people and beautiful places.
My favorite part of food photography is...

leftovers.
For my next trip, Im... dreaming of returning to Alaska. Right now, my sights are set
on my local eats and drinks.
The three things always in my fridge are...

vanilla Greek yogurt, protein bars, and
grapefruit juice. I wish I would remember
them when I crave something sweet!
Contributor photographs clockwise from top left by Scott Phillips, Joni Kabana Photography, Bernadette Tolentino-Cuevas, Mark Boughton,
Matt Scialabba, Matthew Clark. Photographs top left by Karyn Ratcliffe, center left by @reallivingitup-alternatively.
F O L LOW F I N E C O O K I N G
Publisher
Director
Business Development,
Partnership Marketing
John Boland
203-304-3769
jboland@finecooking.com
Alina Light
203-304-3501
alight@finecooking.com
Midwest
Account Director
Susan Welter
203-304-3894
swelter@finecooking.com
Northeast
Account Director
Erin Rijo
203-304-3529
erijo@finecooking.com
West Coast
Advertising Sales
Oak Media Group

323-493-2754
Cynthia Lapporte
Cynthia@oakmedia
group.com
Senior Advertising
Marketing Manager
Robina Lewis
Marketing Manager
Bethany Sax
Consumer Marketing
Manager
Swiss
Precision
Pressure
Cooker
Alison Cole
Distinctively styled. Meticulously crafted. Amazingly

versatile. And under pressure, it really shines.
Member Audit
Bureau of Circulation
For a free catalog visit www.kuhnrikon.com or call

800-924-4699 and use the code FINE.
Single Copy Sales
To contact customer service:

Call 800-477-8727 9am-5pm ET Mon-Fri
Sell Fine Cooking in your store: Call us toll-free at
866-452-5179, or email us at tradecs@taunton.com
WWW.KUHNRIKON.COM
Advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or

email us at fcads@taunton.com
Mailing list: We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that
we not include your name, please visit:
finecooking.com/privacy or call: 800-477-8727
9am-5pm ET Mon-Fri
Handcrafted
in Japan
The Taunton guarantee: If at any time youre not

completely satisfied with Fine Cooking, you can cancel your subscription and receive a full and immediate
refund of the entire subscription price. No questions
asked.
Copyright 2016 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No

reproduction without permission of The Taunton
Press, Inc.
Independent publishers since 1975
Founders, Paul & Jan Roman
President & CEO
CFO
CTO
SVP, Consumer Marketing
VP, Controller
VP, Human Resources
VP, Fulfillment
SVP, Fine Cooking

SVP, Home &
Construction
Dan McCarthy
Mark Fernberg
Brian Magnotta
Paula Backer
Robert Caldaroni
Carol Marotti
Patricia Williamson
Kanso
7" Asian Utility
John Boland
Renee Jordan
Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online

Fine Woodworking Fine Homebuilding
Threads Fine Gardening Fine Cooking
taunton.com
Learn more at shuncutlery.com
@shuncutlery
11
MENUS
Easy Weeknight Dinner
Family Gathering
Endive and Radicchio

Salad with Hazelnuts and
Gorgonzola
Winter Salad
with Spiced Maple Vinaigrette
FineCooking.com
page 21
Pasta with Garlicky Roasted Artichoke

Hearts, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Olives
French Onion
Roast Chicken
page 83
page 20
Porcini-Rubbed Braised Beef
Dinner with Friends

Parsnip and Parmesan Soup with
Pumpkin Seed Pesto
page 51
Egg Noodles
with Creamy MustardTarragon Sauce
page 21
To drink: Chardonnay
page 79
North African Spiced Salmon

over French Lentils
page 66
Orange and Brown-Sugar-Glazed Cake

with Orange-Flecked Whipped Cream
Roasted Red Grapes with

Mascarpone and Rum
page 60
FineCooking.com
To drink: Sangiovese
To drink: Viognier or white

Rhone-style blend
Vegetarian Dinner
Orange, Pear, and Date Salad
with Orange-Rosemary Vinaigrette
Pan-Asian Buffet
page 54
Spicy Chicken Larb with

Thai-Style Roasted Cabbage
Super Bowl Sunday
Broccoli Rabe and Ricotta Ravioli
page 85
Nachos
Chocolate Souffls with

Blood Orange Sauce
page 62
Curried Lentil-Scallion
Pancakes
page 70
page 29
FineCooking.com
Sauted Broccoli Rabe

with Leeks
To drink: Chardonnay
page 29
Thai Salad
Lettuce Wraps
FineCooking.com
Slow-Cooker Southern-Style
Short Ribs with Pimiento Grits
page 20
12
Individual Toasted Coconut

& Lemongrass Bread Puddings
Scotch Blondies
FineCooking.com
page 34
To drink: Riesling
To drink: Vienna lager
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
Fresh Mozzarella
and Melon Salad
BL T Rol ls
Roasted
Vegetable Panini
with BelGioioso
FRESH MOZZARELLA
A good source for protein and calcium, our delicate, milky
lavor adds a touch of freshness to any recipe. At only
70 calories per ounce, its also a smart choice for a fresh start.
Recipes and more at belgioioso.com/startfresh
rBST Free* | Gluten Free | Antibiotic Free | Vegetarian
*No significant difference has been found in milk from cows treated with artificial hormones.
G R E AT F I N D S
Warming Trends
Our favorite new items for the
kitchen, table, and beyond
BY REBECCA FREEDMAN
2
1 Open Season
RBTs beautiful black and brass electric
corkscrew has practical features, for sure
a recharging port, a built-in foil cutter, and a
rubber coaster, to name a fewbut its sleek,
modern design makes it tableworthy, too.
$100; bloomingdales.com; 800-777-0000.
2 BYO with Style

Made with English-style bridle leather, this
handcrafted American-made wine tote can
be customized to your taste; choose the
shade of leather and the interior color, and
monogram it for your favorite wine lover.
$395; Instagram: @LeitzLeather;
SherryLeitz@iCloud.com; 917-735-5044.
3 Go All Spout
With its built-in thermometer for optimal brew
temperature, weighted handle, and elegant
spout, Staggs copper pour-over kettle is a
coffee drinkers dream. Its induction compatible, too. $99; fellowproducts.com.
4 In the Loop
Not only are they ultrasoft, but these kitchen
towels, made from Belgian flax, also feature a
handy loop and tie that lets them double
as half aprons. $18; snowehome.com;
888-439-9397.
5 Soups On
Were loving these soup bowls from Casafinas new Ibiza stoneware line; the bowls are
coated with a reactive glaze that provides
a rustic, speckled, almost iridescent look.
Theyre available in two colors: sand (pictured) and sea (a pretty blue). $83.95
for a set of four; yvonne-estelles.com;
847-518-1232.
6 The Write Stuff
A slow cooker is a must-have for cool-weather
cooking, and this version from Black & Decker
is just the thing for a buffet: Its exterior is a
chalkboard that lets you write whats on the
menu. $29.99 (4-quart size) and $39.99
(7-quart size); amazon.com.
4
5
7 First Glass
For a whiskey by the fireside, look to these
Shu Fa crystal tumblers from Nachtmann,
which take their inspiration from calligraphic
paintings of Chinese mountain rock landscapes. $40 for a set of four; riedelusa.net.
15
G R E AT F I N D S
More kitchen products

on our radar
Pan-tastic
Made from stainless steel,

All-Clads d3 Armor saut
pan boasts nonstick
properties, but theres no
coating on this pan; instead,
the raised matrix on its
cooking surface allows for
easy release. Unlike so many
nonstick pans, we found
it both sturdy and easy to
clean. $299; williams
-sonoma.com; 877-812-6235.
Sweet as Honey
This sustainable alternative to

bee-produced honey isnt actually honey at all: Bee Free Honee
is made with apples, lemon juice,
and cane sugar. Its has the consistency of honey, though, and
a sweet, pleasant flavor thats a
little, well, appley. $16 for two
jars; beefreehoney.com.
Give It a Zest
Never a Dull Moment
If you dont have much

space in your kitchen, youll
appreciate the new Chefs
Choice Two-Stage Compact
Knife Sharpener (model
476), which is small enough
to stash in a kitchen drawer.
It both sharpens and hones,
and you cant beat the price.
$7.99; chefschoice.com;
800-342-3255.
A Cut Above
A hearty roast calls for a sturdy

carving board, and Architecs
Gripperwood XL Concave Board
fits the bill perfectly. It has a
concave center to catch juices,
as well as nonslip feet to keep it
in place. $39.99; architec
products.com.
Pantry Pick
We were intrigued when we

came across Col. Pabsts All
Malt Amber Lager Worcestershire sauce. Beer and
Worcestershire? Whats not
to like? The combo doesnt
disappoint: This sauce is
savory, tangy, and spiced,
and would make a killer addition to burgers or meatloaf.
$12; marxpantry.com;
866-588-6279.
16
Microplanes Flexi Zesti fits right

in the palm of your hand, so its
comfortable to hold while zesting
citrus. We especially like that this
tool has a built-in compartment
that captures the zest, making it
easy to retrieve. $9.95; micro
plane.com; 956-777-6272.
DIY Brew
If youve ever toyed with the

idea of brewing your own beer,
nows your chance: Brooklyn
Brew Shops handy kits come
with all the equipment and
ingredients youll need.
Their compact size (each
kit makes 1gallon of beer)
makes them both manageable and giftable.
$40; brooklyn
brewshop.com.
MAILLE DIJON MUSTARD

WITH HONEY
Meals, Maille, Memories.
maille.com
2016 SALOV North America Corp.
For 150 years, Filippo Berio has honored our

founders passion, artistry and commitment to
excellence. Our exquisite olive oils, crafted by
using only the finest olives, help inspire cooking
enthusiasts all over the world to create meals
that are simple, flavorful, and healthful.
For recipes and more, visit www.filippoberio.com or

text Berio to 313131 and have recipes delivered to your inbox.
M A K E I T TO N I G H T
Fresh and easy weeknight cooking
French Onion
Roast Chicken,
p. 20
F I N EC O O K I N G .C O M
19
SlOw COOKeR
haNdS-OFF COOKiNg
french onion
roast chicken
Few dishes are as simple to make
as this onejuicy roast chicken
with a caramelized onion relish
made right in the roasting pan.
The wonderful flavor is reminiscent of French onion soup. Serve
with good crusty bread. Serves 4
slow-cooker southern-style
short ribs with pimiento grits
Tender, meaty beef short ribs are classic coldweather comfort fare, but thesemade in a slow
cooker while you tend to the rest of your lifeharken back to summer, thanks to their barbecue
flavor. Fans of pimento cheese (as well as those
who have never heard of this Southern staple) will
adore the accompanying grits. Serves 4 to 6
4 lb. bone-in beef short ribs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 4- to 5-lb. whole chicken, giblets

removed, patted dry inside and out
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
2 medium yellow onions
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh herbs,
such as thyme, rosemary, tarragon,
or parsley (optional)
Position a rack in the center of the

oven and heat to 425f.
Salt the chicken inside and out with
about 1Tbs. salt and 1 tsp. pepper.
Slice the onions in half through the
root, then thinly slice crosswise. Transfer to a roasting pan, toss with 4tsp.
salt, and spread evenly in the pan.
Put the chicken, breast side up, on
the onions. roast, stirring the onions
halfway through, until the meaty
part of the thighs registers 165f on
an instant-read thermometer, 45to
60minutes, depending on size. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and
let rest for 10to 15minutes. remove
the onions from the roasting pan (they
will range in color from light to dark
brown) and toss with the herbs, if you
like. carve the chicken and serve with
the onions.
Stephanie Ruby
Pair with: WHITE BURGUNDY
Both French onion soup and roast
chicken are classic with Chardonnay, the grape used in white
Burgundy, so this dish will be
doubly so.
1 cups barbecue sauce

1 cup unsalted beef stock
cup yellow mustard
1 Tbs. mustard seeds
2 Tbs. olive oil
cup dry white wine
1 cup grits (not instant)
4 oz. extra-sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (about 1cup)
2 oz. Neufchtel or full-fat cream cheese, cut into small
pieces
1/3 cup drained, chopped pimientos
1 tsp. hot sauce, such as Cholula; more to taste
cup thinly sliced scallions
generously season the ribs on all sides with salt and

pepper.
in a 6-quart slow cooker, whisk together the barbecue
sauce, beef stock, mustard, and mustard seeds.
Heat the oil in a 6 to 8-quart Dutch oven or other
heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. Working in
batches, brown the ribs on all sides, 3 to 4minutes per
batch. Transfer the ribs to the slow cooker. Pour off any
fat in the pot, return the pot to the heat, add the wine, and
bring to a boil, scraping up any bits from the bottom, and
then transfer to the slow cooker with the ribs. cover and
cook until the ribs are tender, 5 to 6hours on high or 8 to
9hours on low. Transfer the ribs to a rimmed platter, defat
the sauce, and pour enough of the sauce over the ribs to
coat. keep warm until serving.
meanwhile, cook the grits according to package
directions. add the cheeses, pimientos, hot sauce,
1tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper, and stir until the cheeses
melt. Stir in the scallions, season to taste, and serve with
the short ribs, passing additional hot sauce at the table.
Ronne Day
Pair with: ZINFANDEL Just as Zin is a perfect
pairing with backyard barbecued ribs, itll sing with
this wintry, slow-cooked version of that dish.
20
fine cooking feb/mar 2017
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by ronne Day
three speedy sides

egg noodles with creamy
mustard-tarragon sauce
Serves 4
cook 8oz. egg noodles
according to package directions.
meanwhile, in a small saucepan
over medium-low heat, combine 4oz. crme frache with
3 oz. St. andre or Brie, rind removed, 1Tbs. whole-grain dijon mustard, and 4tsp. freshly
ground black pepper, stirring until
the cheese melts. add 2tsp. finely
chopped fresh tarragon, season to taste
with kosher salt, and serve with roast chicken or seared
salmon.
Ronne Day
endive and radicchio salad

with hazelnuts and gorgonzola
Serves 3 to 4
in a medium bowl, whisk 2tsp. sherry vinegar and 4tsp.
each dijon mustard and granulated sugar. Drizzle in
1Tbs. each walnut oil and
extra-virgin olive oil. Season
generously with kosher
salt and freshly ground
black pepper. Halve
2small heads Belgian
endive lengthwise and
slice crosswise into bitesize pieces. Toss with 4small
head cored, sliced radicchio,
3Tbs. dried cranberries, and the vinaigrette. Toss with
4cup toasted chopped hazelnuts and 1/3cup crumbled
gorgonzola, and serve with braised beef or steak.
Laraine Perri
quick collards with bacon and onions

Serves 4
in a large Dutch oven, cook 5slices chopped bacon over
medium heat until slightly crisp. add 1small chopped
yellow onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft
and brown in spots. Stem and slice 2lb. collards into
4-inch ribbons. add to the pot with cup water and
4cup white vinegar. cook, stirring occasionally, until
wilted and tender, about 20minutes. Season to taste
with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Serve with the short ribs and grits at left or with Southern
fried chicken.
Ronne Day
f i n e c o o k i n g .c o m
21
vegeTaRiaN
tofu saag
A creamy yogurt-spinach sauce surrounds spiced, crisped cubes of tofu in this
aromatic, satisfying dish. Serve with rice or naan. Serves 4
2 small yellow onions, coarsely chopped
(about 1cups)
3 medium cloves garlic
2 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh ginger
1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and
coarsely chopped
3 tsp. garam masala (see Note)
1 14-oz. package extra-firm tofu, drained
and cut into -inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
3 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 lb. baby spinach, coarsely chopped
cup plain greek whole-milk yogurt
2 Tbs. toasted sliced almonds
in a food processor, combine half of the onions,

the garlic, ginger, chile, 2tsp. of the garam
masala, and 2tsp. water, and pulse into a paste.
in a medium bowl, toss the tofu with the

remaining 1tsp. garam masala, 1tsp. salt, and
tsp. pepper.
Heat 2Tbs. oil in a large nonstick skillet over
medium-high heat. add the tofu and cook,
tossing the cubes occasionally and adjusting
the heat as necessary, until golden brown all
over, about 10minutes; transfer to a papertowel-lined plate to drain.
Heat the remaining 1Tbs. oil in the same
skillet over medium-high heat. add the
remaining chopped onion and a pinch of salt,
and cook, stirring, until light golden brown,
3to 4minutes. reduce the heat to medium,
add the garlic and ginger mixture, and cook,
stirring constantly, until dry and fragrant, 3 to
4 minutes.
add the spinach in batches and cook, stirring often, until wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. remove
from the heat and let cool 1 minute. Stir in the
yogurt a little at a time, and then gently stir in
the tofu. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Serve topped with the almonds. Erica Clark
Note: garam masala, an indian spice mix,
is available at most supermarkets, or see
Sources, p. 96.
Pair with: VIOGNIER The browned
tofu adds weight and caramelization
to this dish, meriting a rich wine with
slightly round notes. Plus, aromatic
Viognier is great with exotic spices like
those in the garam masala.
TIP
if you like
hot foods,
leave
the serrano
seeds in.
22
bReaKFaST FoR dinneR
fried egg on toast with kale and pickled peppers

This open-face sandwich works for supper, thanks to earthy greens, sweet-tart
peppers, and nutty cheese. Serves 4
3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
5 oz. baby kale (about 5cups)
3 Tbs. chopped mild or hot Peppadew
peppers (see p. 94)
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
4 large eggs
Freshly ground black pepper
24
4 slices of your favorite bread, toasted

1 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved with a
vegetable peeler
In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high

heat, combine the garlic with 2Tbs. of the
oil. Cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic
just begins to color, about 2minutes. Add
the kale and cook, tossing occasionally, until
glossy and tender, about 2minutes. Add the
peppers and lemon juice, stir, and season to
taste with salt. Transfer to a bowl, and wipe
the skillet clean.
Heat the skillet over low heat. Add the
remaining 1Tbs. oil and swirl to coat. Crack

the eggs into the pan, season with salt and
pepper, and cover. Cook until the eggs are just
set but the yolks are still runny, about 2minutes. Divide the greens evenly among the
toast, top each with an egg, and garnish with
the cheese.
Matthew Card
Pair With: WITBIER This is a great
all-around food beer, with enough
crisp fruitiness to balance sweet or
spicy elements, as in the peppers,
but also creamy/yeasty qualities to
complement richness, as in the egg
yolks, cheese, and bread.
TO E X P LO R E
TO I N D U LG E
N E W WO R L D S
B EC A U S E G O L D
I S A G I R L S
BEST FRIEND
B EC A U S E
I M A N AT U R A L
W H Y I CO O K
TO C R E AT E
SOMETHING
PINWORTHY
B EC A U S E
PUMPKIN SPICE IS
STILL DELICIOUS
B EC A U S E FA N C Y
I S O V E R R AT E D
B EC A U S E I H AV E
G R E AT TA S T E
T H E B E S T I N G R E D I E N T S M A K E T H E B E S T D I S H E S.
2016 CSC Brands LP.
No preservatives, nothing artificial, just rich chicken flavor.
Learn. Share. Inspire. #WhyICook
winter salad with

curried shrimp, apples,
and cashews
The warming spices in the curry make this
main-course salad a perfect choice for a light
meal on a cold winter day. Serves 4
6 Tbs. rice vinegar
22 tsp. light brown sugar
1 medium shallot, thinly sliced lengthwise
3 Tbs. canola oil
2 tsp. fish sauce
Kosher salt
2 tsp. curry powder
1 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25per lb.), peeled and
deveined, tails left intact, if you like
7 oz. mche or arugula (7 to 8 cups)
2 medium Fuji or Gala apples, cored and cut into
4-inch-wide matchsticks
2 cup roasted, salted cashews, chopped
in a small bowl, stir 4Tbs. of the vinegar and 1tsp. of

the sugar until the sugar dissolves. add the shallot, let
sit for 15minutes, and then drain.
meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the remaining
2Tbs. vinegar, 2Tbs. oil, the remaining 12tsp. sugar,
the fish sauce, and 4tsp. salt. Set aside.
combine the curry powder and 2tsp. salt in
a small bowl and sprinkle evenly over both sides of
the shrimp.
Heat the remaining 1Tbs. oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. add the shrimp
and cook, flipping once, until just opaque, 2 to 3minutes total.
add the shallot, mche, apple, and cashews to the
bowl with the vinaigrette, and toss to coat. Top with
the shrimp, and serve immediately. Sandra Wu
Pair With: HARD CIDER Crisp, refreshing
cider will complement similar notes in the
salad, while its light effervescence will
contrast nicely with the salads earthier
curry flavors.
TIP
Leaving the shell
on the tail end of the
shrimp keeps them
from curling up
too much.
26
3 ways with...
Broccoli Rabe
Bring bold flavor to your table with this Italian favorite.
B Y R O N N E D AY
the bitter truth

Also known as brocoletti de rape,
raab, and rapini, and a favorite of
Italian cooks, this bitter brassica has
been steadily gaining popularity in the
United States and is fairly easy to find
in most supermarkets fall through
spring. Its leaves, buds, and tender
stems can be sauted, steamed, or
braised. Delicious on its own, its also
used in soups, salads, and pastas.

broccoli rabes bitterness can vary,
but it always pairs well with the
pungent flavor of garlic. it is best when
the buds are all green (not yellow) and
the leaves are fresh, not wilted. Store
broccoli rabe in a plastic bag in the
refrigerator for up to five days.
broccoli rabe and potato pizza

Broccoli rabe and potatoes, a classic Italian combination, is even
better topped with creamy, smoky mozzarella. serves 6 to 8
Kosher salt
1 yukon Gold potato, peeled
and sliced 1/8inch thick
(about 1cup)
22 tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
2 4-inch sprigs fresh rosemary
12 oz. broccoli rabe, trimmed
and finely chopped (about
72cups)
all-purpose flour, for
the pizza peel
1 lb. store-bought pizza dough,
at room temperature
6 oz. coarsely grated mozzarella
4 oz. coarsely grated smoked
mozzarella
4 medium cloves garlic, thinly
sliced lengthwise
2 oz. finely grated Grana Padano
(2cup)
Position a pizza stone on a rack

in the center of the oven, and heat
to 450F.
bring a pot of salted water to a
boil, and cook the potato slices for
1minute. Rinse under cold water,
gently pat dry with paper towels, and
set aside.
28
fine cooking feb/maR 2017
In a 12-inch skillet, heat 2Tbs. oil

over medium-high heat. add the
rosemary and cook, stirring often,
until crisp, about 1minute. Transfer
to a paper-towel-lined plate. Add the
broccoli rabe to the skillet and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the stalks
are crisp-tender, about 3minutes.
Generously flour a pizza peel or a
large cookie sheet. Stretch the pizza
dough on the peel to a 14-inch circle.
Evenly distribute half of both mozzarellas over the dough, then half of the
potatoes, half of the broccoli rabe,
and all of the garlic, covering most of
the surface. Crumble the fried rosemary leaves over the pizza. Repeat
with the remaining potatoes, broccoli
rabe, and mozzarella. Season with
a pinch of salt and a few generous
grinds of pepper, and carefully slide
onto the pizza stone.
bake until the crust is browned
and the cheese is just melted, 13to
15minutes. Remove the pizza from
the oven, top with the grana Padano,
and drizzle with the remaining oil.
Cool briefly and serve.
broccoli rabe and ricotta ravioli

Wonton wrappers make these great-tasting ravioli easy to
assemble even for a weeknight dinner. serves 4 to 6
Kosher salt
1 tbs. olive oil
1 tbs. finely chopped garlic
8 oz. ricotta
tsp. packed finely grated
lemon zest
8 oz. broccoli rabe, trimmed and
finely chopped (about 3cups)
1 large egg
Cooking spray
48 wonton wrappers
2 oz. (4 tbs.) unsalted butter
1 tbs. fresh lemon juice
3 tbs. toasted pine nuts,
chopped
sauted broccoli rabe

with leeks
A side dish of broccoli rabe makes a good counterpoint to the rich, hearty dishes popular in winter.
serves 4
2 tbs. olive oil
1 large leek, white and light-green parts only,
very thinly sliced and thoroughly rinsed
(about 2cups)
12 tsp. aleppo pepper or red pepper flakes
1 lb. broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut
into 2-inch pieces (about 14cups),
rinsed and left slightly damp
1 tbs. unsalted butter, softened
Kosher salt
In an 8-quart pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat.

add the leek and tsp. of the pepper, and cook, stirring
often, until the leek is tender and beginning to brown, 3 to
5minutes. add the broccoli rabe, toss, and cook until the
leaves have wilted, about 1minute. Reduce the heat to
low, and add the garlic and the remaining pepper. cover
and cook, stirring occasionally, until the stalks are tender,
12to 13minutes. Stir in the butter until melted, season to
taste with salt, and serve.
bring a large pot of well-salted water

to a boil.
Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat
the oil over medium heat. add the
garlic and cook until deep golden
brown, 15to 30seconds. Remove
from the heat, transfer the garlic
and oil to a medium bowl, and add
the ricotta, lemon zest, tsp. salt,
and tsp. pepper. Stir to combine.
boil the broccoli rabe until tender, about 2minutes. Drain under
cold water, then squeeze dry with
paper towels. Transfer cup to the
bowl with the ricotta mixture and
mix to combine. Reserve the rest,
and keep warm.
in a small bowl, beat the egg with
1Tbs. water.
Line a large rimmed
baking sheet with
parchment and
lightly spray with
cooking spray.
Put 6wonton
wrappers on a work
surface. Put 1scant Tbs.
filling in the center of each
wrapper, and generously brush
some of the beaten egg around
the edges of the wrapper. Put
another wrapper on top and press
the edges to seal, being careful to
press out any air. Transfer the ravioli to
the rimmed baking sheet, and lightly

spray with cooking spray. Repeat with
the remaining wrappers and filling,
placing another sheet of parchment
on top of the first layer as you run out
of room. cover with plastic wrap and
refrigerate for at least 15minutes.
In a small skillet, heat the butter
over medium-low heat, swirling
the pan occasionally, until it turns
brown and has a nutty aroma, 3 to
5minutes. Remove from the heat
and whisk in the lemon juice, tsp.
salt, and tsp. pepper.
In a large straight-sided skillet,
bring about an inch of salted water
to a gentle simmer. Place 4 to 6ravioli in the water, and cook for about
2minutes, gently nudging them
with a fish spatula or slotted spoon.
Using the spatula, transfer the ravioli
to a warm platter, drizzle some of
the brown butter over them, and
repeat with the remaining ravioli.
Pour any remaining butter over
the platter, garnish with the
toasted pine nuts and
reserved broccoli
rabe, and serve.
B O O K S T H AT C O O K
The Reading List

Books that encourage and inspire home cooks
BY JOANNE SMART
A Recipe for Cooking
Small Victories
Mozza at Home
By Cal Peternell (William Morrow; $29.99)
Recipes, Advice + Hundreds of Ideas

for Home Cooking Triumphs
More Than 150 Crowd-Pleasing Recipes

for Relaxed, Family-Style Entertaining
Cal Peternell made his cookbook debut in 2015

with Twelve Recipes, a book about the basic
techniques and recipes every beginner cook
needs in his or her repertoire. That award-winning
book was rightly praised for its warmth as well as
its instruction. In his follow-up, the Chez Panisse
chef makes the case that the recipe for cooking
is widely variable, and that it depends on many
factors, including time, ingredients, and occasion. With his latest collection of more advanced
recipes, he encourages readers not only to enjoy
the rewards of their cooking but also the process,
which can include making fresh pasta or braising pork belly. Chapters are divided by course
and then by season; he admits his own home
cooking is inextricably intertwined with what he
does at the iconic restaurant, which pioneered
the notion that cooking should be based on the
finest, freshest local seasonal ingredients. If that
sounds highfalutin, know that his prose is not. In
his Sweet Pea Risotto, for example, he calls young
peas sugary tykes and suggests cooking them
for less time than the starchy grown-ups. The
book is as much fun to read as it is to cook from.
Four-color photos that look beautiful but also like
real life and occasional illustrations, some by his
wife and adult sons (all artists), add to the books
friendly feel.
By Julia Turshen (Chronicle Books; $35)
By Nancy Silverton (Alfred A. Knopf; $35)
If you cook from Julia Turshens first solo

cookbook (the writer and recipe developer has
co-authored many cookbooks), there will be
triumphs. Dishes like Roast Chicken with Fennel,
Rosemary + Lemon, Ribs with Gochujang, Fish
Sauce + Honey, Crispy Fish with Bacon + Chives,
and Peach + Bourbon Milkshakes come loaded
with exciting, surefire flavors. Turshens recipes,
a pleasure to read, come with parenthetical
asides that sound like advice from your more
culinarily advanced best friend. Her spin-offs,
a feature of every recipe, offer multiple ways
to tweak a dishs flavor, different ways to use
the dish, or how to use the same basic technique with other ingredients. Beyond the usual
chapters (Soups + Salads; Meat + Poultry), there
is a chapter on breakfast, one featuring drinks
(Paloma Slushies sound especially fun), and one
called Seven Lists, which is comprised of seven
lists of seven things to do with such ingredients
as mussels, pizza dough, and leftover roast
chicken, a great reference for home cooks. At
times, the small victory conceit feels contrived; the phrase appears in boldface in every
recipe intro and often just refers to a kitchen tip,
but the rest of the book, including 160photos, is
so lovely that thats a small price to pay.
Nancy Silverton rose to fame running La Brea

Bakery in Los Angeles, which she founded with
her then-husband almost 30years ago, but in
her latest cookbook, she admits that she started
cooking actual meals only about 15years ago
after renting an apartment in Italy and cooking
dinners for family and friends. Lucky for readers
of her newest cookbook, her love for entertaining at home continued on her return to L.A. Even
luckier: Though the food she features is delicious,
her approach to entertaining is casual, mostly
buffet style, and full of make-ahead dishes.
Mozza at Home, named for her current restaurants, is organized by menu. For each, she gives a
main dish and a selection of antipasti, side dishes,
and salads. The food is mostly California-meetsMediterranean, though one menu centers around
Korean short ribs and a couple are Mexicaninspired. Her recipes, though often quite simple,
are long. That might scare some home cooks,
but the length comes from her including all of the
details that help guarantee success. (And lines
like Put the pork in the oven and forget about it
for 4hours are just what a haggard host loves to
see.) There are also glorious-looking desserts to
pair with whatever menu you choose or just to
enjoy on their own.
One to try: Slow-Baked Salmon with Shell

Beans, Sage, and Aoli. A slow, steamy bake
creates a luxurious texture.
Fan fave: Turkey + Ricotta Meatballs. In a book

with more than 400 recipes and variations,
this one has lots of folks raving about it.
A sure hit: Sals Roasted Pork Shoulder. The

idea of putting a tender hunk of meat on the
buffet plus tongs to tear at it is pure genius.
30
nly
Egglands Best
gives you the best in
taste, nutrition, and variety.
THINK ALL EGGS ARE THE SAME? Then you havent experienced
Egglands Best.
Compared to ordinary eggs, Egglands Best eggs have ve times the Vitamin
D, more than double the Omega 3, 10 times the Vitamin E, and 25 percent
less saturated fat.Plus, EBs are a good source of Vitamin B5 and Riboavin,
contain only 60 calories, and stay fresher longer.
Hungry for better taste? EBs deliver more of the farm-fresh avor you and
your family love. Any way you cook them!
Theres only one egg that gives you so many outstanding varieties, too.
Egglands Best.
*Voted Most Trusted Egg Brand by American shoppers. Based on the 2016 BrandSpark/Better Homes and
Gardens American Shopper Study
egglandsbest.com
Better Taste. Better Nutrition.

Better Eggs.
FOOD SCIENCE
Dried Herbs
and Spices
Learn how to get the most
from these pantry essentials.
B Y D AV I D J O A C H I M
A N D A N D R E W S C H LO S S
Drying herbs and spicesremoving water from a plants aromatic leaves and
lavorful seeds, fruits, roots, bark, and budsdramatically increases their shelf life.
For a cook, this means that a dash of lavor is always at the ready, but coaxing it out
requires a little know-how. Here, well share our tips for buying, storing, and cooking with dried herbs and spices in order to maximize their lavors and aromas.
Are there beneits to drying?
Yes. Drying inhibits spoilage, and in some cases,
the drying process actually creates the distinctive lavors we love. For example, vanillin, the
rich lavor compound in vanilla, and piperine,
the pungent lavor compound in black pepper,
emerge only during drying. his is because the
process allows enzymes to liberate these lavors
from their storage cells.
Which herbs are most lavorful
when dried?
here are many diferent chemical compounds present in any one herb or spice
that combine to make up its distinct lavor
and aroma. Terpenes and phenols, the two
big families of lavor chemicals in herbs, are
volatile aromatics. Terpenes are linked to the
dominant aromas in citrus, lowers such as
roses, and needle-leaf trees, among others.
hese compounds are highly volatile, so
their lavors dissipate during drying. For this
reason, herbs that derive much of their distinguishing lavor notes from terpenes oten
have a very diferent lavor when dried.
Basil is a good example; its lavors and
aromas are a balance of terpenes with
32
aromatic phenol notes. Ater drying, the

terpene lavors disappear, so you taste the
more persistent phenols and oils that are let
behind. hats why dried basil is lavorful,
but doesnt have the same nuanced lavor as
fresh basil.
Herbs that depend mostly on phenols for
lavor, however, such as oregano, dill, and
thyme, retain much of their original lavor
characteristics when dried. his is because
the chemical structure of phenols makes
their lavors more stable during drying.
Is there a diference in pungency between
whole and ground herbs and spices?
In general, spices, which come from the hard
parts of plants (bark, seeds, roots), contain
more lavorful essential oils by weight than
do herbs, which come from leaves and
blossoms. hat is why most spices are more
pungent than most herbs.
As for whole versus ground, yes, there is
a diference. Aroma chemicals are isolated
in specialized storage channels that lie
between the cells of an herb or spice. When
the herb or spice is whole, the aroma
chemicals are protected and remain intact.
Ater grinding, however, the chemicals are

exposed to evaporation and oxidation, which
diminishes and changes their lavor. To get
the maximum lavor from spices, buy them
whole, and grind them with a spice grinder
or pound them in a mortar and pestle just
before using. As for dried herbs, crumbling
whole dried leaves is suicient to release their
lavor. Avoid buying ground herbs, because
grinding reduces their shelf life. (If you must,
purchase small quantities so you can use
them up quickly.)
When should I add dried herbs and spices?
Both dried herbs and spices need time and
moist heat to rehydrate, break down their
cell walls, and release aromatic chemicals.
Because dried spices are hard and take a
while to break down, theyre best added near
the beginning of cooking. Phenol-heavy
dried herbs, such as thyme and oregano, also
remain lavorful ater several hours of cooking. To introduce lavor components of herbs
lost through drying, you may choose to add
a small amount of the same herb, in its fresh
form, near the end of cooking as the same
evaporative process that caused the loss of the
more volatile compounds in drying will also
occur in cooking.
What cooking techniques improve
the lavor of dried herbs and spices?
Aromatic chemicals are structured more like
fats than water. his characteristic makes
I l l u s t r a t i o n s b y Fe l i c i t a S a l a
How can I substitute dried herbs for fresh?

Herbs contain up to 90% water when
fresh. Ater drying, most of the water has
evaporated, which concentrates the herbs
lavors that have not dissipated through the
process. To account for the more concentrated lavor of dried herbs, use one-third
them more soluble in fat than in water, so
sauting dried herbs and spices in fat captures
their lavors. Simmering them in fat-free
liquid releases aromatic chemicals, but it does
not hold on to them. Water and alcohol are
also volatile (alcohol more so) and therefore
allow the aromatics to escape. hats why
herbs steeped in hot water lavor the water
strongly, but continued heating diminishes
the lavors. Another technique for enhancing lavor is toasting (best for whole spices).
his process helps the spices to release their
aromatic chemicals. Meanwhile, chemical
browning reactions can also occur, creating
even more lavor compounds.
Whats the best way to store dried herbs

and spices?
For the longest shelf life, store dried herbs
and spices in an airtight container away
from oxygen, heat, moisture, and light;
these factors will hasten the deterioration
of dried herbs and spices, and release
their lavors and aromas. An opaque, airtight glass container in a cool, dark, dry
cupboard is ideal for storage. If stored
properly, whole spices will retain their
lavors for one to four years, depending on
the spice. Ground spices diminish in lavor
substantially within six months. Properly
stored whole dried herbs retain their lavors
for about six months, but ground herbs
begin to diminish in lavor only a day or
two ater grinding.
the volume of dried herbs to replace fresh

herbs. For instance, replace 1tsp. of fresh
thyme with tsp. dried.
David Joachim and Andrew Schloss are the
authors of the award-winning reference book
he Science of Good Food.
One Flavor, Many Spices

Spice flavors come in the form of various chemical compounds. The same compound
sometimes can be found in different spices, which gives seemingly diverse spices an
affinity. for example, allspice and black pepper both contain the chemical compound
caryophyllene, which lends them a sharp, woody flavor. as a result, these two spices
complement each other well (spicy gingerbread and savory jerk chicken are perfect
examples). The following chart lists spices that share the same chemical compound;
use it as a guide to help you combine spices and create new flavor twists for your
favorite dishes.
Chemical Compound
Flavor Notes
Found In
anethole
anise
anise seed, fennel seed, star anise
caryophyllene
Spicy, woody
allspice, black pepper, cinnamon, clove
Cineole
camphor
allspice, cardamom, cinnamon,

galangal, ginger, lavender, mint,
nutmeg, sage, turmeric
cinnamaldehyde
Cinnamon
Cassia, cinnamon, cumin
Eugenol
Clove
allspice, cinnamon, clove, galangal
Geraniol
Floral
galangal, nutmeg, Sichuan pepper
Humulene
Woody
annatto, coriander seed, grains of

paradise
Limonene
Citrus
annatto, black pepper, caraway,

cardamom, celery seed, dill seed,
nutmeg, star anise, sumac
Linalool
Floral
Cardamom, cinnamon, coriander seed,

ginger, star anise, Sichuan pepper
Phellandrene
camphor
cumin, ginger, Sichuan pepper
Pinene
Pine
black pepper, cardamom, coriander,

cumin, juniper, mace, mint, nutmeg,
Sichuan pepper, sumac
Sabinene
Spicy, woody
bay leaf, cardamom, juniper, mace,

marjoram, nutmeg, peppercorn
D-carvone
Caraway
Caraway, dill seed
Terpineol
Floral
Cardamom, rosemary
33
GOOD SPIRITS
A Blend with Benefits

This Scotch whiskey combines the best
of three first-rate spirits. B Y L AY L A S C H L AC K
Water of Life
The word whiskey derives
from the phrase uisge
beatha, a Gaelic translation of the Latin aqua vitae,
which means water of life.
This gives a sense of its
monumental importance in
Scottish culture since the
15th century or earlier.
Why drink just one single-malt

Scotch when you can have three
of the finest in one glass? Monkey
Shoulder is a blend of Balvenie,
Glenfiddich, and Kininvie, all single
malts from Scotlands northern
Speyside region.
To be labeled Scotch whiskey,
a spirit must be made primarily
from barley thats been germinated
(malted), but it can include some
other whole grains, such as wheat.
It must then be distilled and aged in
oak barrels no larger than 700liters
for at least three years. The only
other ingredients allowed, besides
the malted barley and grain, are
Scottish water and caramel coloring. The whole production process
must take place in Scotland.
A single malt is simply a Scotch
that was produced entirely at
one distillery. These Scotches
reflect the way the grains
were malted (sometimes
over a peat fire, which adds
a smoky, peaty flavor) and the
climate the spirit was aged in.
Blends, like Monkey Shoulder,

tend to be smoother and more consistent. Theyre often less expensive,
which makes them a great entry
into Scotch-drinking, but Monkey
Shoulders pedigree and warm
vanilla, honey, and spicy oak flavors
make it popular among aficionados,
too. Monkey Shoulder is also great in
cocktails, unlike single malts that are
meant to be sipped on their own or
with a splash of water or an ice cube.
Monkey Shoulder is named after
an affliction that plagued whiskeymakers of old: Hand-turning the
barley as it malted could lead to a
tendon injury that caused one arm
to hang lower than the others. But
dont worrymodern production
methods mean that people dont get
it anymore, so you can enjoy your
Monkey Shoulder guilt-free.
To E or Not to E?
In the United States, we
usually spell it whiskey, which is
also how its spelled in Ireland.
In Scotland, Canada, and
Japanthe three other major
producersits spelled whisky.
The reason is unclear, but one
theory is simply the differences in the Scottish-Gaelic
and Irish-Gaelic spellings.
A Sweet Spirit
When Scotch is used in
cooking, its typically in
desserts (although not butterscotch, despite the name).
Its toasty, smoky flavors make
a nice counterpoint to sugar,
while its vanilla flavors blend
right in. It also pairs nicely with
the sugary elements in cocktails, like the sweet vermouth
in the classic Rob Roy.
scotch blondies
Use a blended Scotch to make these
soft, chewy blondies, and save your
single malt to sip along with them.
Makes 16blondies
6 oz. (cup) unsalted butter;
more softened for the pan
11 oz. (2cups) unbleached
all-purpose flour
tsp. baking powder
tsp. baking soda
tsp. table salt
2 cups packed dark brown sugar
cup Scotch whiskey
2 large eggs, beaten
Position a rack in the center of the oven and

heat to 350F. Butter the bottom and sides of
a 9x13-inch baking pan, line the bottom with
parchment, and then butter the parchment.
In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking
powder, baking soda, and salt.
In a 2-quart saucepan, melt the butter
over medium-low heat. Let cool briefly. Add
the brown sugar and stir until combined. Add
the Scotch, eggs, and vanilla and stir until
combined.
Add the sugar mixture to the flour mixture, stirring until just combined. Gently fold
in the chocolate chips.
Scrape the batter into the prepared

pan, smooth the top, and tap the pan on
the counter once or twice to break any air
bubbles. Bake until the top is golden brown
and just starting to pull away from the edges
of the pan, about 25minutes. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.
Run a knife around the edge of the pan
to loosen the blondies, invert onto a cutting
board, remove the pan and parchment,
and flip right side up. Cut into 16pieces and
serve.
You can store the blondies, covered, at
room temperature for up to 5days.
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract

2 cups mini chocolate chips
34
FE B RUARY 1 8 19, 2017

SEAPORT HOTEL & WORLD TRADE CENTER
Join Us for the 2017 Boston Wine Expo

Bigger, Better and Bolder Than Ever: Featuring
more than 200 wineries from around the world

Two Celebrity Chef Stages: Spotlight the hottest
chefs and cuisines from throughout Boston and

New England
Vintners Reserve Lounge: Ideal setting for serious
wine enthusiasts looking to sample rare and

expensive vintages
Boston Wine Expo Marketplace: Enjoy food
samples from area restaurants and specialty

food manufactures. Indulge yourself with
a purchase from one of the many unique
lifestyle vendors
Seminar Series: Highly regarded educational
programs feature top winemakers and

industry experts
FOR TICKETS AND FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT

VINTNERS RESERVE
LOUNGE PRESENTED BY
OFFICIAL
BROADCAST PARTNER
WineExpoBoston.com
SUPPORTED BY
A PORTION OF PROCEEDS TO BEN EFIT:
Tufts Medical Centers Summer Camp Program for Children with Disabilities
PRODUCED BY
1 can (2
0 oz.) D
OLE P
2 cans
ineapp
(14.5 o
le Chu
undrain z.) diced t
nks 2
omato
tbsp. fi
ed
e
s,
ne
1 can (6
jalape ly chopped
oz.) to
o chil
mato p
1 can (4
es, opt
a
1
s
te
tsp. sa
oz.) dic
ional
lt
e
d gree
1 large
1/2 tsp
n chile
(1-1/2
. cayen
s
cups) o
ne pep
1 gree
nion, c
1/2 tsp
n bell
per
hoppe
.
hot re
p
e
p
d
per, se
chopp
d
peppe
1 tbsp
eded,
ed
r flake
. olive
2 garli
s
oil
c clove
3
lb
s
s
. lean b
, finely
3 tbsp
chopp
. chili p
cut int oneless por
ed
owder
o 1-inc
k
4 tsp. g
h cube butt,
g
r
een on
round
s
cumin
ion, sli
ced
shredd
Drain
ed Che
pineap
ddar c
ple ch
a
n
d
heese
sou
unks, r
Combin
eserve
option r cream,
e rese
juice.
al
rved ju
onion
ic
10
, bell p
e, tom
epper,
atoes
and pe
in a m
garlic,
SERVINGS
pper fl
edium
chili p
akes.
bowl w
owder
Heat o
,
it
c
u
h
m
to
il in Du
in, jala
mato p
peo c
tch ov
aste, g
(Dont
en or la
hiles, s
reen c
overcr
alt, ca
hiles,
rge sa
owd p
yenne
ucepa
ot. Add
Spoon
peppe
n. Brow
just en
brown
r
n
o
m
e
u
e
d pork
gh me
at on a
cook o
at to c
into bo
ll sides
n Low
over b
ttom o
6 to 8
in
b
atches
ottom
hours
f crock
Add pin
.)
.
or Hig
pot; po
eapple
h 3 to
ur tom
chunk
cheese
4 hour
a
to
s
mixtur
during
s or un
and so
e over
ur crea
til por
last 30
k is ten
pork. C
m, if d
minute
esired
over;
der.
s of co
.
oking.
Serve
with g
reen o
nions,
f Sunshine
o
e
lic
For mo
re
dolesu delicious re
ci
nshine
.com/r pes go to
ecipes
, TM & 2017 Dole Packaged Foods, LLC.
O N LO C AT I O N
In Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking, our PBSTV show now in its fourth season, host Pete
Evans travels America, creating a feast with local chefs and artisans in every episode.
From left, oysterman Travis Croxton,

host Pete Evans,
chef Dylan Fultineer,
and oysterman Ryan
Croxton show off
their dishes for a
feast on the Rappahannock River.
Take Me to the River

An oyster farm on the Rappahannock delivers sweet, briny bivalves and a whole lot more.
Oyster lovers can be very selective about
the lavor of their bivalves; some like
them on the briny side, while others
prefer them mild. For those who like their
oysters sweet, there are none better than
those from the mouth of Virginias Rappahannock River, the largest tributary to
Chesapeake Bay. Sustainable aquaculture
has helped rejuvenate the bay oyster, with
Photograph by Mark Boughton
fourth-generation oystermen and cousins

Ryan and Travis Croxton of Rappahannock Oyster Company at the forefront,
and chefs like Eric Ripert of New Yorks
Le Bernardin applauding their eforts.
he Croxtons have also launched several
restaurants to showcase their prized
bivalvesRappahannock in Richmond,
Virginia; Rappahannock Oyster Bar in
BY NANETTE MAXIM
Washington, D.C.; and Merroir in Topping, Virginiawhich have brought Ryan,

Travis, and chef Dylan Fultineer kudos
from food critics across the country.
In celebration of the oyster, Moveable
Feast headed to the community of Topping and to Merroir, the Croxtons tasting
room/restaurant on the shores of the
Rappahannock.
37
O N LO C AT I O N
Before any cooking can begin, fresh oysters

must be hauled in. Ryan, Travis, Dylan, host
Pete Evans, and Rappahannock Oysters farms
director, Patrick Oliver, take to the river, where
the farms cages are full of mature oysters grown
over the past 18months. When I was a kid, I
spent summers along Chesapeake Bay, Dylan
says as the group shucks and eats some of their
catch. he taste of these oysters is nostalgic for
me, because an oyster tastes exactly like where
it comes from.
To give guests at this episodes feast a true
bivalve experience, the group, which also
includes Merroir seafood expert Pete Woods,
pulls together a menu that features raw oysters
served with cocktail sauce and a classic mignonette sauce as well as cooked in a Spanish-style
stew (recipe p.40) with homemade
Above: Loaves of bread from Sub Rosa

Bakery in Richmond, Virginia.
Top right: Fresh oysters being hauled
from the Rappahannock River.
Center right: Pete and Dylan cooking
Lamb and Oyster Stew (p.40) on the grill.
Bottom right: Merroirs bar manager,
Paul Kirk, offers up his Hedgeman Reviver
cocktail made with ster Vit.
38
Photographs by Mark Boughton
angels on
horseback
Traditionally, angels on horseback
are broiled bacon-wrapped
oysters, but this version is served
on the half-shell topped with ham
and a fragrant herb butter. The
butter mixture can be refrigerated
for up to 5days. Makes36
8 oz. (1cup) unsalted butter,
softened
Juice and finely grated zest of
1large lemon
2 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh thyme
1 clove garlic, minced
Large pinch seasoning blend, such
as Old Bay
3 dozen raw oysters, shucked (p.96)
and left on the half-shell
8 oz. thin-cut country ham, cut into
2-inch pieces
Prepare a high (500f to 600f) gas or

charcoal grill fire.
in a large bowl, combine the butter,
lemon juice and zest, rosemary, parsley, thyme, garlic, and seasoning blend.
Transfer the butter mixture to a sheet
of plastic wrap, and roll into a 2-inchthick log. refrigerate until slightly firm,
about 15minutes, then slice the butter
into 36pats.
Top each oyster with a pat of butter
and a piece of country ham. Place the
oysters on the hot grill. close the lid
and cook until the butter sizzles and
the oyster liquor is bubbling, about
5minutes. Using tongs, transfer the
oysters to a platter, trying to keep the
liquor inside. Serve immediately.
Dylan Fultineer
Recipe adapted from Moveable Feast
with Fine Cooking.
WATCH: How to
Shuck Oysters
Like a Pro
FineCooking.comoysters.
recipe photograph by bleacher+everard; food styling by marianne Zanzarella
39
O N LO C AT I O N
Pete woods cooks up his Stuffin Muffins, a favorite

at Merroir.
lamb sausage. hey also show up in a signature

dish, the Stuin Muin: a bacon-and scallionrich cornbread-and-oyster stuing shaped into
patties, pan-fried or grilled, and topped with
a cream sauce. he muins are made with
polenta cornbread from Sub Rosa Bakery in
Richmond, where baker Evrim Dogu is known
for using regional and heirloom grains. he
rustic polenta bread also makes a
lamb and oyster stew

Small Rappahannock oysters are
good in this stew, but you can use
your favorite oysters. Serves6 to 8
FOR THE SOFRITO
3 dried chiles de arbol
4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups finely chopped sweet onion
2 cups finely chopped red bell pepper
Kosher salt
2 tsp. piment dEspelette (ground
Espelette pepper) or red pepper flakes
1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes
6 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 cup dry sherry
FOR THE STEw
1 lb. ground lamb
4 cup finely chopped jarred piquillo
peppers or jarred roasted red peppers
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. red wine vinegar; more as needed
2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp. piment dEspelette (ground
Espelette pepper) or red pepper flakes
40
Kosher salt
and sherry. Simmer uncovered for 30minutes,

stirring occasionally, to develop the flavors.
1 cup dry sherry

3 dozen small oysters, shucked (p.96),
plus their liquor (about cup)
12 cups canned black-eyed peas, drained
and rinsed
MAKE THE SOFRITO
in a small skillet, toast the chiles in a dry pan

over medium heat, turning occasionally until
charred in spots, about 2minutes. When cool,
stem and seed.
bring about 2cups of water to a boil in a
1-quart pot. remove from the heat, add the
chiles, cover, and soak until softened, about
20minutes. remove the chiles from the
water, halve them lengthwise, and scrape
out and reserve the inside flesh, discarding
any remaining seeds.
Heat the oil in a 4-quart pot over medium
heat. add the chile flesh, onion, bell pepper,
rosemary, 1tsp. salt, and espelette pepper,
and cook, stirring often, until beginning to
brown, 8 to 10minutes. reduce the heat to
low, add the tomatoes and their juice, garlic,
MAKE THE STEw
in a large bowl, combine the lamb, piquillo

peppers, garlic, vinegar, oregano, espelette
pepper, and 2tsp. salt. mix gently with your
hands to combine.
Heat the oil in a 5-quart heavy-duty pot
over high heat. add the lamb mixture, press
it into an even layer, and cook, undisturbed,
until it begins to brown, about 2minutes.
continue to cook, breaking the lamb into
smaller pieces while stirring occasionally,
until browned, about 2minutes. add the
sherry and continue to cook until the liquid
reduces slightly, about 3minutes. add the
sofrito, bring to a boil, and then lower to a
simmer. add the oysters with their liquor and
the black-eyed peas, and simmer until the
oysters are tender, about 5minutes. Season
to taste with salt and vinegar, transfer to
bowls, and serve.
Dylan Fultineer
with Fine Cooking.
recipe photograph by bleacher+everard; food styling by marianne Zanzarella
finger lickin good.
O N LO C AT I O N
Moveable Feast guests enjoy a river view as they dine.
great companion to Dylans stew, which feasters

use to sop up every bite.
For the stew, Dylan steams oysters on a
charcoal grill by covering them with burlap
soaked in water. Next, he makes a sausage patty
from local Border Springs Farm lamb. People
dont oten think of making their own sausage,
but when you can buy great meat and have it
ground, theres no reason not to, he says. Dried
and fresh peppers make this stew singEspelette, piquillo, chile de arbol, and bellalong
with black-eyed peas and sweet onions, not to
mention the dozens of succulent oysters.
As the guests begin to arrive, Pete Evans tosses
a salad of Little Gem lettuces (recipe right) with
prosciutto. Ryan, Travis, and Pete Woods are at
the grill, putting the inishing touches on a rich
take on Angels on Horseback (recipe p.39) that
replaces the bacon with country ham, another
point of pride for Virginia.
Although the clouds overhead may be thickening in anticipation of an aternoon rain, the
feast is already laid out on a dockside table, and
guests are sipping cocktails featuring ster Vit
(which is similar to aquavit, but steeped over
oyster shells and sold nearby at the James River
Distillery). heyre munching on Dylans buttery,
bourbon-tinged barbecued oysters. A few raindrops fall, but no one can think of anything but
oysters. Cooking on the river, Dylan says as he
ladles up steaming bowls of stew, it doesnt get
better than this.
Find out when Moveable Feast is
showing in your area at FineCooking.tv
/schedule.
42
fine cooking feb/mAr 2017
little gem salad with prosciutto

If Little Gem lettuce (see p. 93) is unavailable, bright green, crisp
hearts of romaine are a fine substitution. Serves 6 to 8
2 anchovies, finely chopped
1 small clove garlic, grated
Finely grated zest and juice of
1lemon
1 Tbs. whole-grain mustard
2 tsp. honey
Sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper
cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
4 heads Little Gem lettuce,
trimmed and quartered
3 oz. thinly sliced Prosciutto di
Parma, cut in half lengthwise
In a small bowl, whisk the anchovies,

garlic, lemon zest and juice, mustard,
honey, 4tsp. salt, and 4tsp. pepper.
Drizzle in the oil, whisking until emulsified. Gently stir in the chives.
Arrange the lettuce on a platter,
drizzle with most of the vinaigrette,
top with the prosciutto, drizzle with
the remaining vinaigrette, and serve.
Pete Evans
with Fine Cooking.
Recipe photograph by bleacher+everard; food styling by Marianne Zanzarella
NOW ON PBS!
ALL NEW
SEASON 4
Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking
returns for Season 4 with host
Pete Evans stirring up fun. Join us
for pop-up feasts across the country
new locations, new chefs and artisans,
and fabulous new dishes.
For showtimes, recipes,
and more, go to
finecooking.tv
NEW! Recipes from Season 1 and 2 available in our cookbook.

Previous seasons available on DVD.
Visit TauntonStore.com

is a production of WGBH Boston and
distributed by American Public Television.
2016 The Taunton Press
SEA SALT
f I n e c o o k I n G .c o m
43
Slow cooking followed by

a blast in the oven creates tender
meat with an appealing crust,
all without searing.
B Y LY N N E C U R R Y
Braised meat is a beau t if ul

t h ing. hanks to low, slow cooking in
a lavorful liquid, the meat becomes crazy
tender and full of lavor. Its the perfect choice
for winter dining, when youre hankering for
a hearty meal and having the oven on for a
few hours is most welcome. A braise is practically foolproof and only better if made ahead,
so its great for both casual family meals and
stress-free entertaining. But what if I told you
about a technique that makes braising even
easier still?
continued
Backward
BRAISING
F I N EC O O K I N G .C O M
45
When braising, you typically sear meat to

brown it for lavor and color, then add liquid and
aromatics before cooking it until tender. With
my backward method, you braise the meat to
tenderness irst, then brown it in a hot oven.
here are several rewards for doing this. You
skip the messy step of searing the meat on the
stovetop and have no chance of burned fat leaving
an of taste. You also create a lavorful broth in the
pot, which means you dont need to have stock on
hand to braise. How does this work? In my experience, the initial slow cooking preserves more of
the meat juices in the pot compared to the high
heat of searing, which causes the released meat
juices to evaporate.
With my technique, you can also cook the meat
until tender hours or even a couple of days before
serving. hen its simply a matter of reheating
and browning it right in the same pot in the oven.
Finally, during the browning step, the liquid
reduces further, creating a robust sauce to serve
with the meat.
hough you could adapt this method to just
about any cut of meat suitable for braising, my
favorite cuts are pork shoulder roast and beef
chuck, which are both deeply lavored, especially
when bone-in, and are also among the least
expensive. Before braising, I like to boost the
lavor by seasoning the meat with a dry rub; a day
ahead is great, but longer is even better.
he meat from the recipes on the following
pages can be served for dinner as is, in chunks or
slices along with its sauce and, say, some potatoes.
But you can also shred the meat to use in tacos
(or for the nachos on p.62), as a illing for ravioli,
or as a topping for risotto, polenta, or pasta along
with some of the sauce. I oten do both: Serve half
the recipe as is and then shred and freeze the rest
of the meat to use in quesadillas or to top baked
potatoes another night. With a method this easy,
youll have plenty of tender, lavorful braised meat
on hand all winter long.
Lynne Curry is the author of Pure Beef: An Essential
Guide to Artisan Meat with Recipes for Every Cut.
46
chile-rubbed braised beef

The Tex-Mex flavors of this fork-tender meat make
it perfect for shredding and using in tacos, burritos,
and even nachos (see p. 62). Its also tasty on its own
topped with the chunky slow-cooked sauce made
right in the pot and served with rice. For best flavor,
season the beef at least a day ahead. Serves 4 to 6
FOR THE SPICE RUB
cup chili powder
4 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbs. light brown sugar
2 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. dried oregano
tsp. ground allspice
FOR THE BRAISE

1 28-oz. can diced
tomatoes
1 medium yellow onion,
chopped
6 large cloves garlic,
thinly sliced
Kosher salt
1 3- to 4-lb. beef
chuck roast, preferably
bone-in
SEASON THE BEEF
combine the chili powder, salt, sugar, cumin, oregano, and

allspice in a small bowl.
Using a paring knife, trace the fat seams of the roast and
around the bone, if there is one, to make a series of deep
incisions on both sides, without completely separating the
muscles. coat the meat all over with the rub, massaging it
between the muscles and on all sides of the roast.
Put the meat in a Dutch oven or high-sided skillet that fits
it snugly. cover and refrigerate for at least 12hours and up to
3days.
BRAISE THE BEEF
remove the meat from the refrigerator and let sit at room
temperature for 1 to 12hours before cooking.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 300f.
Uncover the beef, and add the tomatoes, onion, garlic, and
2cup water. cover tightly and cook until the meat is forktender, 3to 32hours.
Leaving the liquid and vegetables in the pot, transfer the
meat to a rimmed baking sheet to cool slightly. Separate the
meat into large chunks, and remove and discard any fat.
Skim the fat from the broth. return the meat to the pot
and arrange the pieces in a single layer. (The dish can be prepared up to this point and refrigerated for 1 to 2days. reheat the
meat at 300f, covered, for 30minutes before proceeding with
the recipe.)
raise the oven temperature to 425f. cook the beef,
uncovered, until the exposed surface is deeply browned, flipping once, about 40minutes. Serve with the vegetables and
sauce, and season to taste with salt.
Pair With: SCHWARZBIER Rich, coffeelike, and almost
caramelly, this black lager combines beautifully with
spicy, earthy flavors like the ones here. If you end up
using the meat in tacos or nachos, go for something
lighter, such as pilsner or lager.
47
step-by-step to backward braising
48
fine cooking feb/MAR 2017
braised pork shoulder with fennel, garlic, and herbs

The flavor combination in this braise is reminiscent of porchetta, and leftovers make a great sandwich.
For the best results, season the pork at least a day ahead. Serves 4 to 6
FOr THe SPICe ruB
8 large cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
(from about 2lemons)
2 Tbs. chopped fresh rosemary
1 Tbs. kosher salt
2 tsp. coarsely chopped fresh sage
2 tsp. coarsely ground fennel seeds
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 3- to 32-lb. bone-in pork shoulder roast
FOr THe BrAISe
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 fennel bulb, chopped (about
2 2/3 cups), plus 2cup fennel fronds
for the braise and more for serving,
if you like
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
2 cups dry white wine
SeASOn THe POrK
combine the garlic, zest, rosemary, salt,

sage, fennel seeds, and pepper in a small
bowl.
Using a paring knife, trace the fat

seams of the roast and around the bone
to make a series of deep incisions on both
sides, without completely separating the
muscles 1 . score any external fat or skin
and fat with a series of incisions 1inch
apart 2 . coat the meat all over with the
rub, massaging it between the muscles and
on all sides of the roast 3 .
Put the pork in a Dutch oven or high-sided
skillet that fits it snugly 4 . cover and refrigerate for at least 12hours and up to 3days.
BrAISe THe POrK
remove the pork from the refrigerator

and let it sit at room temperature for 1 to
12hours before cooking
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat to 300f. Uncover the pork, and
add the onion, fennel bulb and fronds,
rosemary, bay leaf, and wine 5 . cover tightly
and cook until the meat is fork-tender, 22 to
3hours.
Leaving the liquid and vegetables in

the pot, transfer the meat to a rimmed baking sheet to cool slightly. separate the meat
into large chunks, and remove and discard
all the fat 6 .
Discard the bay leaf. skim the fat from the
broth 7 . return the meat to the pot, and
arrange the pieces in a single layer 8 . (The
dish can be prepared up to this point and
refrigerated for 1 to 2days. reheat at 300f,
covered, for 30minutes before proceeding
with the recipe.)
raise the oven temperature to 425f.
cook the pork, uncovered, flipping once,
until the exposed surface is well browned,
about 40minutes 9 . serve with the vegetables and sauce, garnished with fennel
fronds, if you like.
Pair With: CHArDOnnAy A pork
shoulder is heavier and meatier than
a loin or a chop, so this other white
meat dish could pair with red wine.
But white wine in the braise tips the
scales toward white in the glass as well.
49
spiced apple-braised pork shoulder

Apple and pork is a classic combination. Here, the fruits sweetness is balanced by
the warm spicesginger, mustard, cayenne, and black pepperin the spice rub.
For best flavor, season the pork at least a day ahead. Serves 4
FOr THe SPICe ruB
1 Tbs. whole coriander seeds
4 tsp. kosher salt
22 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. dry mustard
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
FOr THe BrAISe

2 medium apples, diced
2 cup apple cider vinegar
4 cup honey
Kosher salt
1/8 tsp. cayenne

1 3- to 32-lb. bone-in pork
shoulder roast
SeASOn THe POrK
Toast the coriander seeds in a small dry skillet over

medium heat, rolling the seeds around in the pan
to prevent scorching, until they are fragrant. cool
briefly, then grind in a spice grinder or mortar and
pestle. combine the coriander, salt, ginger, mustard, black pepper, and cayenne in a small bowl.
Using a sharp paring knife, trace the fat
seams of the roast and around the bone to
make a series of deep incisions on both sides,
without completely separating the muscles.
Score any external fat with a series of incisions
1inch apart.
coat the meat all over with the rub, massaging it between the muscles and on all sides of
the roast.
Put the meat in a Dutch oven or high-sided
skillet that fits it snugly. cover and refrigerate for
at least 12hours and up to 3days.
BrAISe THe POrK
remove the meat from the refrigerator and let sit at

room temperature for 1 to 12hours before cooking.
Position a rack in the center of the oven, and
heat to 300f. Uncover the pork, and add the
50
apples and onion. combine the vinegar and

honey with 1cup water, and pour over the roast.
cover tightly and cook until the meat is fork-tender,
22 to 3hours.
Leaving the liquid and apples in the pot,
transfer the meat to a rimmed baking sheet
to cool slightly. Separate the meat into large
chunks, and remove and discard all the fat.
Skim the fat from the broth. return the meat
to the pot, and arrange the pieces in a single
layer. (The dish can be prepared up to this point
and refrigerated for 1to 2days. reheat at 300f,
covered, for 30minutes before proceeding
with the recipe.) raise the oven temperature to
425f. cook the pork, uncovered, flipping once,
until the exposed surface is nicely browned, about
40minutes. Serve with the apples and sauce, and
season to taste with salt.
Pair With: GEWRZTRAMINER The classic
German combination of pork and apples
calls for an off-dry German wine. That means
Riesling is a candidate as well, but both the
richness of the dish and the warm spices give
slightly heavier Gewrztraminer an edge.
This
beautiful
braise is
ideal for
company.
porcini-rubbed braised beef

The deep, dark spice rub can make the meat look like its
burned, but its most definitely not. A special-occasion dinner
on its own, the beef is also delicious shredded, tossed with
some of its sauce, and used as stuffing for ravioli topped with
a horseradish butter sauce. (You can use wonton wrappers,
as described on p.29.) For best flavor, season the beef at
least a day ahead. Serves 4 to 6
FOr THe ruB
3 Tbs. porcini powder
(see note)
42 tsp. kosher salt
12 tsp. dried thyme
12 tsp. freshly ground black
pepper
1 tsp. dried marjoram
1 32- to 42-lb. beef chuck
roast, preferably bone-in
4 large cloves garlic, thinly
sliced
FOr THe BrAISe
4 medium carrots, sliced
2inch thick
1 medium yellow onion,
chopped
2 cups dry red wine
1 Tbs. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt
SeASOn THe BeeF
in a small bowl, combine the

porcini powder, salt, thyme, black
pepper, and marjoram.
Using a paring knife, trace
the fat seams of the roast and
the bone to make a series of
deep incisions on both sides,
without completely separating
the muscles. coat the meat all
over with the rub, massaging it
between the muscles and on all
sides of the roast. Tuck the garlic
into the incisions in the meat.
Put the meat in a Dutch oven
or high-sided skillet that fits it
snugly. cover and refrigerate
overnight and up to 3 days.
BrAISe THe BeeF
remove the meat from the

refrigerator and let sit at room
temperature for 1 to 12hours
before cooking.
Position a rack in the center

of the oven and heat to 300f.
Uncover the beef, and add the
carrots, onion, wine, Worcestershire, and 2cup water. cover
tightly and cook until the meat is
fork-tender, 3 to 32hours.
Leaving the liquid and vegetables in the pot, transfer the
meat to a rimmed baking sheet to
cool slightly. Separate the meat
into large chunks, and remove
and discard any fat.
Skim the fat from the broth.
return the meat to the pot and
arrange the pieces in a single
layer. (The dish can be prepared
up to this point and refrigerated
for 1 to 2days. reheat the meat
at 300f, covered, for 30minutes before proceeding with the
recipe.)
raise the oven temperature to 425f. cook the meat,
uncovered, flipping once, about
40minutes; because of the dark
rub, it wont change much in
appearance, but a crust will
form. Serve with the vegetables
and sauce, and season to taste
with salt.
note: You can buy porcini
powder (see Sources, p. 96) or
make it yourself by grinding dried
porcini mushrooms to a fine
powder in a spice grinder.
Pair With: SANGIOVESE
This not-too-fruity wine will
complement the deeply
savory notes of the dish,
while its bright acidity will
cut through the richness.
51
Citrus BLISS
Oranges help chase away the
winter blues by brightening up
dishes both savory and sweet.
BY JAMIE SCHLER
I grew up on the indian river in

florida, a stones throw from the
regions famous orange groves.
During citrus season, we had so much bounty that we
couldnt keep it all in the kitchen, so my dads workbench in our garage would be crammed with bags
bursting with fresh-from-the-tree oranges, grapefruit,
and tangerines. Eaten out of hand, they were breakfast, snacks, and even dessert. My mom and dad never
thought to use oranges in a dish, though.
Years later, as I began cooking for my own family, I
quickly came to appreciate the orange as an ingredient
as versatile as it is delicious. he peeled fruit, cut into
slices or segmented, transforms a wide array of dishes
from salads to desserts into something spectacular. Its
not just the lesh that adds lavor, either; orange juice
and, especially, zest add bright, loral, and tangy notes
to soups or stews, sauces, marinades, vinaigrettes,
glazes, and more. I have come to love oranges so much,
in fact, that Im writing a cookbook about them.
hough oranges are available year-round, I gravitate
toward them more in winter, when other seasonal fruit
is scarce and I could use a little taste of sunshine. hese
days, I live in France, so the oranges I buy tend to come
from Spain, South Africa, Italy, and Morocco.
Like Florida oranges, most of those at my market
are sweet oranges. (Bitter oranges, such as Sevilles, would
not be welcome in a fruit salad and are mainly used for
making marmalade.) I enjoy the slight lavor diferences
and various shades of color among the diferent varieties (see sidebar p. 54), but I also ind them more or less
interchangeable in my kitchen, whether in the recipes on
the following pages, or simply peeled and eaten out of
hand the way I did as a kid in Floridaand still do today.
Along with running her hotel, Jamie Schler posts oten on her
blog, Lifes a Feast (lifesafeast.net), and is at work on a cookbook all about oranges.
52
Orange, Pear,
and Date
Salad with
OrangeRosemary
Vinaigrette,
p.54.
53
orange, pear, and date

salad with orange-rosemary
vinaigrette
Though the jewel-like tones of orange slices
scream for attention, the charm of this refreshing salad is its balanced, simple, almost subdued
flavors, which beguile with every bite. Serves 4
3 oranges (about 9oz. each)
2 Tbs. white wine or Champagne vinegar
2 small heads Little Gem (sucrine) or
10oz. baby romaine or butter lettuce,
coarsely chopped (about 62cups)
1 large ripe pear, quartered, cored, and sliced
into thin wedges
4 Medjool dates (see p. 91), pitted
and each cut into 4 to 5 pieces
1/3 cup very thinly sliced red onion
4 oz. fresh mozzarella, either small balls,
such as ciliegine or bocconcini, or larger,
cut into pieces (optional)
2 Tbs. toasted pine nuts
Flaky sea salt
Use a rasp-style grater to remove 12 tsp. zest from one

of the oranges. Juice one of the oranges to yield 4cup
juice. in a small bowl, whisk the juice, zest, vinegar, rosemary, and thyme. Continue whisking as you slowly add
the olive oil in a steady stream. Season to taste with salt
and pepper.
Peel the remaining two oranges as directed at far right.
Slice the oranges crosswise no more than 4inch thick.
remove and discard any seeds.
Pile the chopped lettuce in the center of a platter or
divide among serving plates. Top with the orange slices,
pear, dates, onion, and mozzarella, if using, and then
sprinkle with the pine nuts, a grind or two of black pepper,
and some sea salt. Whisk the vinaigrette, spoon some
over the salad, and pass the rest at the table.
Pair With: GEWRZTRAMINER Any dish with this
much fruit needs a wine with similar sweetness. Offdry Gewrz gets the nod because it has the weight to
stand up to earthy herbs, cheese, and toasted nuts.
54
Top: navel orange; center: blood orange; bottom: Cara Cara orange
Enjoy blood and navel oranges

IN WINTER
In the United States during winter, naVeL orangesthe
ones that look like they have a belly button thanks to
a small secondary fruit that develops on the blossom
endare most abundant. These seedless oranges are
tasty, but dont be deceived: Theyre not always as big
as they look because they can have very thick skin. If
youre looking for a winter orange with more drama, look
for bLOOD oranges, so named for their deep red flesh.
CaRa CaRaS are a type of navel orange with a lovely
persimmon-colored flesh; I love how a mix of these and
regular navels looks in a salad or salsa. Despite making an
appearance at most markets before the snow melts,
VaLenCia oranges are known as the summer orange
and are more widely available then. They are among
the most popular oranges thanks to their thin skin and
abundant juice.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by ronne Day
PiTh-FRee PeeLinG: Slice off the blossom and stem ends of the fruit.
Stand the fruit on one of its cut ends, and slice off the skin in strips, following the natural curve of the fruit from top to bottom. Try to remove
all of the bitter white pith but not too much of the flesh.
SeGMenTinG: Working over a bowl to catch the juice and using

the membranes as guides, cut the segments, or suprmes, free.
Squeeze any juice from the leftover membrane before discarding.
zesting
SLiCinG: Slice the peeled orange crosswise, and then into

quarters or smaller if you want pieces.
its hard to remember how much of a pain finely

grating zest was before the rasp-style grater
came onto the market. Use it like a nail file, moving it along the contours of the fruit. The zest will
collect along the backside of the grater. Turn it
over and give it a whack to encourage the zest to
fall from it.
f i n e C o o k i n g .C o m
55
orange, onion, and olive focaccia

Sweet, tangy, and salty, this focaccia is hard to stop eating. Depending on the size of your oranges, you may not use all of them. And though
it may look like a lot of onion, dont worry: It shrinks and mellows when
baked. Serves 12
12 Tbs. granulated sugar
22 tsp. (4oz.) active dry yeast
2 tsp. table salt
18 oz. (4 cups) unbleached allpurpose flour; more for kneading
1 sweet onion, halved and very
thinly sliced (14 to 2cups)
4 cup pitted black olives, such as
Kalamatas, slivered lengthwise
Flaky sea salt
2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
(optional)
in a small bowl, combine the sugar,

yeast, and 4cup warm (90f) water.
Let stand until the yeast dissolves and
the mixture is foamy, about 15minutes.
meanwhile, use a rasp-style grater to
remove 12Tbs. zest from the oranges.
in a small bowl, toss the zest with the
salt.
in a large bowl, combine 3cups of
the flour with the salt and zest, using
your fingers to make sure the zest is
well distributed with no clumps. make
a well in the center. add the yeast mixture, 2Tbs. of the oil, and 1cup warm
water, and stir with a wooden spoon
until a rough dough forms.
oil a large, clean mixing bowl with
about 1Tbs. of the oil.
Turn the dough onto a lightly floured
work surface and knead in the remaining 4cup flour. Continue kneading until
the dough is soft, smooth, and elastic,
about 5minutes. Shape the dough into
a ball, and transfer it to the prepared
bowl. Turn the dough over in the bowl
to thoroughly coat with oil. Cover the
bowl with plastic wrap and a kitchen
towel, and let rise until doubled in size,
about 1hour.
meanwhile, peel and slice the oranges
as directed on p.55, and then cut each
slice into 4 to 6pieces.
56

oven, and heat to 400f.
roll the dough out on a piece of
parchment sized for a large baking
sheet until it is almost the size of the
parchment. Transfer on the parchment
to a large rimmed baking sheet, fitting
it to fill. Using wet fingertips, make
indentations across the surface. brush
all over with 2Tbs. oil, letting the oil pool
in the indentations.
Scatter the orange pieces and olives
over the surface of the dough, and gently press them into the dough. Spread
the onion slices evenly over the dough
and gently press them in. Sprinkle all
over with flaky salt, a little black pepper,
and the oregano, if you like. bake until
risen and golden on top and bottom,
25to 35minutes. (areas around the
orange pieces will remain light.)
Slide a metal spatula under the
focaccia and transfer it to a rack. Let
cool briefly before cutting and serving.
TiP: heres an easy

way to know if your
focaccia dough has
doubled in size: Take
a picture of it with
your smart phone at
the start and then
compare with the
dough in the photo
after an hour.
57
58
breaded cutlets with orange salsa

Few can resist a crisp fried cutlet. Here, both the meat and the
breading are infused with the delicate flavors of orange and
thyme. The fruity, colorful salsa complements the rich crust.
Serves 4
2 cups dried breadcrumbs, such as panko
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
4 thin-cut chicken breast, veal, or pork cutlets
(about 1lb.)
1 medium tomato, cored and cut into medium
dice (about 1cup)
TiP: Switch up the

flavors of the salsa
for an altogether
different dish. Try
swapping out the
tomato for an equal
amount of mango
and papaya, or
add some minced
jalapeo for heat.
2 Tbs. finely chopped red onion

1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh cilantro; more
to taste
2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
12 tsp. fresh lime juice; more to taste
1 egg
4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 cup vegetable oil; more as needed
Put the breadcrumbs in a wide

shallow bowl or rimmed plate.
Using a rasp-style grater, finely
zest the oranges into the breadcrumbs. add the thyme, 1tsp. salt,
and 2tsp. pepper, and toss to
combine, breaking up any clumps
of zest.
Squeeze the juice of one of the
oranges into a wide bowl or large
zip-top bag. add the cutlets, turn
to coat if necessary, and marinate
for 10minutes.
meanwhile, segment the
remaining orange as directed on
p. 55, cut the segments into a few
pieces, and toss with the tomato,
onion, and cilantro. add the olive
oil, lime juice, and a pinch each of
salt and pepper. Toss and season
to taste with more cilantro, salt,
and pepper.
Crack the egg in another wide
shallow bowl and beat lightly.
Put the flour on a rimmed plate
and season with 2tsp. salt and a
healthy grind of black pepper.
Lift a cutlet from the juice and
shake off the excess liquid. Dip it
first in the flour, coating both sides
well and shaking off any excess
flour. Then dip in the egg, letting
the excess run back into the

bowl, then into the breadcrumbs,
making sure both sides are well
coated.
in a 12-inch skillet, heat the oil
over medium-high heat until the oil
erupts into lots of bubbles when
you dip in a corner of a cutlet. fry
the cutlets, in batches if necessary,
flipping once, adding more oil and
adjusting the heat as necessary to
maintain a steady bubbling action,
until cooked through and golden
brown on both sides, 3to 5minutes per side. Serve topped with
some of the salsa.
Pair With: RIESLING Some
Rieslings can be almost
effervescent, a great foil for
anything breaded and fried.
Because of the fruity salsa,
the slight sweetness of an
off-dry Riesling would work
really well.
LOOKinG FOR MORe FReSh

WaYS TO USe ORanGeS?
GO TO FineCOOKinG.COM/ORanGeS.
59
orange and brown-sugar-glazed cake

with orange-flecked whipped cream
Surprisingly light and airy, the cake on
its own would make a delightful snack or
breakfast treat. Brush on the glaze and pile
on the whipped cream, though, and you
have an impressive dessert. Serves 12
FOR The CaKe
8 oz. (1cup) unsalted butter, softened; more for
the pan
12 oz. (scant 3cups) unbleached cake flour
golden brown, 40 to 45minutes. (a toothpick in

the inserted in the center of the cake may have a
few crumbs clinging to it.) Check the cake during
the last 10minutes of baking; if its browning too
much, tent it loosely with aluminum foil. Let the
cake cool in the pan for 10minutes, then slide
a knife around the edge to release the cake, if
necessary. remove the side of the pan, and using
a large cake spatula, transfer the cake from the
pan to a cooling rack. Let cool.
22 tsp. baking powder

4 tsp. table salt
GLaZe The CaKe
2 oranges (about 9 oz. each)
Poke holes all over the cake with a toothpick in

-inch intervals.
Combine the juice, sugar, and marmalade in a
small saucepan over medium heat. bring to a simmer, lower the heat to low, and whisk often until
syrupy, about 10minutes. brush the glaze onto
the cake, letting some drip down the sides. (The
cake can be wrapped in plastic and kept at room
temperature for up to 2 days before serving.)
12 cups granulated sugar

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest (from 1lemon)
3 large eggs
4 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 cup milk
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
FOR The GLaZe
4 cup fresh orange juice
4 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 Tbs. orange marmalade
FOR The WhiPPeD CReaM
1 cup heavy whipping cream, well chilled
1 Tbs. confectioners sugar
4 tsp. finely grated orange zest
MaKe The CaKe
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat

to 350f. butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch
springform pan. in a small bowl, whisk together
the flour, baking powder, and salt.
Use a rasp-style grater to remove 1Tbs. zest
from the oranges. Juice one of the oranges to
yield 4cup juice.
in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, sugar, and orange and
lemon zests on medium speed, scraping down
the sides of the bowl as needed, until light and
creamy, about 2minutes. add the eggs one at a
time, beating after each addition just to combine.
add the vanilla, and beat briefly to combine.
in three additions and alternating with the milk
and orange juice, add the dry ingredients, beating
on medium speed after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Pour
the batter into the prepared pan, tap the pan
on the counter a couple of times to remove air
bubbles, and smooth the surface with a spatula.
bake until the cake is just set in the center and
60
MaKe The WhiPPeD CReaM anD SeRVe
in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment

or in a bowl using a hand mixer, whip the cream
on medium speed until it starts to thicken, about
2minutes. add the sugar and zest, raise the
speed to medium high, and continue to whip until
medium soft peaks form, about 2minutes more.
Serve the cake with the whipped cream.
TiP: Give whipped

cream a boozy
boostand more
orange flavor
by adding 1Tbs.
Grand Marnier
or similar liqueur
while whipping.
61
NACHO NIRVANA
A guide to making the most of this favorite snack
Whether served at a Super Bowl

party or as a post-skiing snack,
nachos are always a hit. And despite
how easy they are to make, there is
a huge gap between mediocre and
great ones. Weve all had the lame
kind with a pile of naked chips under
a meager outer layer of cheese. The
best nachos, however, have a perfect
cheese-to-chip ratio so that every
bite is a delicious balance of crisp
crunch and pure ooey gooey joy. The
most awesome nachos also include
bright, fresh garnishes to balance
the richness of the cheese, and they
keep the salsa on the side to prevent
the chips from getting soggy. Follow
the tips here, and your nachos will
always be supremo.
Joanne Smart is a senior editor for
Fine Cooking.
Invite salsa,
sour cream, and
guacamole to
the party, but
keep them on
the side.
Dont plop them
on top of the nachos,
or theyll make the
chips soggy.
Serve piping hot. Keep the

nachos on the hot platter or baking sheet
to retain heat, and serve them right away.
They will be gobbled up before
the cheese has a chance to cool.
BY JOANNE SMART
Choose your chips. They

should be sturdy and not
too salty. For supermarket
brands, we like Santita and
Utz. Even better: freshly
made chips from a Mexican
restaurant or specialty food
market or ones you make
yourself (see p.89).
Nacho Math
Include a good melter. Try
mixing coarsely grated Cheddar
for flavor and Monterey Jack for
meltability. Really like em oozy?
Add a little mozzarella, American, or Muenster to the mix.
An easy cheese-to-chip
ratio is to have twice as
much cheese by weight
as chips. That means that
for a large sheet pan (or
similar-size platter), figure
on 8oz. (about 12cups) of
chips to 16oz. of cheese.
If adding meat or beans,
use 2to 2cups total for
a large sheet pan; scale
down if making less.
Stick to a (mostly) single layer.

Start by laying chips on a heatproof
platter or baking sheet with no overlap. Sprinkle a little less than half of
your cheese (see Nacho Math, above
right) over the chips. Cover any gaps
in the chip layer with more chips. Top
with meat or beans, if using, and then
the rest of the cheese.
Beef (or bean) them up,

if you like. Use your favorite
chili, or give some cooked
meat or beans a Tex-Mex
treatment (see Cheaters
Chili, right). The ChileRubbed Braised Beef on
p.47 also makes a great
topping.
cheaters chili
Quickly add Tex-Mex
flavor to cooked meat
or beans by following
this easy recipe.
Makes about 2cups
Heat 2tsp. vegetable oil

in a large skillet. Add cup
chopped onion, 1Tbs. finely
chopped jalapeo, and 1tsp.
finely chopped garlic. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until just
tender but not browned. Add
1Tbs. chili powder, 1tsp.
ground cumin, and tsp.
kosher salt. Cook briefly,
stirring to combine. Add 2to
2cups cooked shredded
meat (rotisserie chicken
works great) or cooked ground
meat (from about 1lb. raw),
or add 2cups drained canned
beans (or use a mix of both);
cook until heated through. Stir
in 1Tbs. chopped fresh cilantro, and add cup water or
beer to the pan, if dry.
Finish with fresh garnishes.

Sliced scallions, chopped cilantro, shredded lettuce, and diced
tomatoes all add color, flavor,
and refreshing texture. Jalapeos add a bit of heat, too, andif
pickleda tangy bite that helps
cut the richness.
Bake in a hotbut not too

hotoven. Too hot, and the
cheese can separate into an
oily mess. A moderate (350F)
oven for about 8minutes
melts the cheese nicely.
For great
guacamole &
sensational salsa,
go to FineCooking
.comextras.
63
Lentils
for the love of
Look beyond the usual brown ones to make a stew,

sides, and even a scallion pancake. BY MARGE PERR Y
When my kids were little, our go-to
North African
Spiced Salmon
Over French
Lentils, recipe
p. 66
quick dinner was a simple, homey soup made

with brown lentils. Thats about all I did with
them (the lentils, not the kids). A trip to India
changed my limited lentil world view. There,
these tiny, dried legume seeds (also called
pulses) appeared in various colors and textures
in a wide range of dishes, from masala dosa, the
thin, savory golden breakfast pancakes made
from fermented lentils, to porridgelike aromatic spiced red lentils served with rice. After
that trip, I began to seek out new types
of lentils, and now my pantry is filled with
different varieties, from India as well as France,
Spain, Canada, and the United States.
Lentils are indeed globally beloved, and for
good reason. As plants, they need little and give
much: They grow even in drought conditions,
are often used as a cover crop, and enrich the
soil in which they grow. Theyre also an inex-
pensive, low-carbon, high-fiber source of protein with plenty of important nutrients, including potassium and folate. But mainly, theyre
delicious. With some variation, lentils are earthy
and sweet. Their texture ranges, depending on
the type and the amount of time theyre cooked,
from nubby and just tender, perfect for a side
or salad, to soft and almost pured in a soup or
stew. There are many different kinds of lentils;
on the following pages, I talk about four of my
favorites and offer a recipe for each, based on
the region from which each lentil originates.
My lentil-soup-loving kids are all grown up
now, but they still enjoy lentils. Like me, theyre
inspired to try them in all sorts of dishes, too. I
hope youre encouraged to do the same.
Marge Perry is an award-winning food, nutrition,
and travel writer, and author of the website A Sweet
& Savory Life.
65
north african spiced

salmon over french lentils
Go to any French bistro, and youll likely find
a dish of lentils and salmon. Its a classic for
good reason: Lean, mellow lentils complement
the richness of the fish. This version includes a
Moroccan-inspired spice rub on the salmon. As
you eat, flake the salmon into the lentils to better distribute those aromatic spices throughout
the dish. Serves 4
1 cup French lentils (lentils du Puy), rinsed
13 cup dried apricots, finely diced
French lentils
Cooking time:
35 to 45 minutes
2 Tbs. olive oil

1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley;
more for serving, if you like
1 Tbs. drained capers
tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
Fine sea salt
tsp. ground cumin
tsp. paprika
tsp. ground cinnamon
tsp. ground ginger
tsp. ground turmeric
French lentils (also known as lentils

du Puy) are grown in the volcanic soil
of Frances Auvergne region. These
small green-blue lentils pick up an
appealing mineral flavor from the
soil, and because they have a lower
starch content than other types of
lentils, they hold their shape well.
Only lentils grown in the region of
Le Puy may be called du Puy; other
lentils may just be labeled French.
18 tsp. ground allspice

18 tsp. cayenne
4 6-oz. salmon fillets, skinless or skin on
Lemon wedges, for serving
in a 4-quart saucepan, bring the lentils and 3cups water

to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to a simmer,
add the apricots, and gently simmer until the lentils are
tender but still hold their shape, 35 to 45minutes. Drain.
meanwhile, heat 1Tbs. of the oil in a 12-inch skillet
over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring
occasionally, until soft and golden, 6 to 8minutes.
Add the lentils, parsley, capers, lemon zest and juice,
and tsp. salt, and stir to combine. keep warm over
low heat.
combine the cumin, paprika, cinnamon, ginger,
turmeric, allspice, cayenne, and tsp. salt in a small
bowl. Pat the spice mix onto the salmon.
Heat the remaining 1Tbs. oil in another 12-inch
nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.
Add the salmon, flesh side down, and cook until
golden brown, 3 to 4minutes. Turn and cook to your
liking, another 2 to 3minutes for salmon thats barely
opaque in the center. Serve the salmon over the lentils,
garnished with more parsley, if you like, and with the
lemon wedges.
Pair With: CHENIN BLANC Theres a lot
going on herefruit, spices, piquancy, earthiness. Light Chenin Blanc wont compete,
and its aromatics will nicely complement.
66
FINE COOKING FEB/mAR 2017
Cooking Lentils
Lentils are easy to cook, but here are
a few tips for best results.
Though not as important as it once was thanks
to modern packaging, its still good practice to
sift through lentils to remove any small stones
before cooking.
Salt and acid (like tomatoes and citrus juice) added
at the beginning of cooking slow lentils ability to
absorb liquid and soften, so add them at the end of
cooking if youre in a hurry.
Adjust cooking times based on how lentils will be
used. For a side or salad, you might want a firmer
texture. If you are making something that requires a
softer consistency, such as the scallion pancakes on
p.70, achieving this texture may take additional time.
Add flavor before cooking and after. Since theyre
so mildly flavored, lentils benefit from being cooked
with aromatics like garlic, onion, and celery. After
cooking, brighten them up by tossing them with
flavorful ingredients, such as a vinaigrette, fresh
herbs, or both.
beluga lentils with ruby chard
Beluga/caviar
One look at this stunning side dish,

and you can see why these elegant
legumes are also called caviar lentils. Serve with braised beef, lamb,
or roast chicken. Serves 4 to 6
lentils
Cooking time:
30 to 40 minutes
These tiny, shiny black orbs are
named for the caviar they so closely
resemble when cooked. Mild and
adaptable, they pair well with both
robust and subtle flavors. They hold
their shape and are beautiful when
served in place of caviar atop
appetizer-size pancakes or as a
side salad, dressed with a simple
vinaigrette.
1 Tbs. olive oil

cup small-dice carrot
cup small-dice celery
cup small-dice onion
cup small-dice red bell pepper
tsp. ground coriander
tsp. dried marjoram
cup dry white wine
1 cup beluga lentils, rinsed
2 Tbs. chopped Kalamata olives
2 Tbs. chopped sun-dried tomatoes
8 oz. ruby or rainbow chard, stems
removed and reserved for another
use, leaves torn into 3-inch pieces
Heat the oil in a 5-quart Dutch oven or

other heavy-duty pot over mediumhigh heat. Add the carrot, celery, onion,
bell pepper, coriander, and marjoram,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until
the vegetables begin to soften, about
4minutes. Add the wine and cook until
nearly evaporated, 3to 4minutes. Add
the lentils and 2cups water. Bring to a
boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook until
the lentils are tender, 30 to 40minutes.
Stir in the olives, tomatoes, and chard,
and cook, tossing occasionally, until the
chard has wilted, 4 to 5minutes. Add the
vinegar and tsp. salt, and cook, tossing
often, until any liquid in the pan is nearly
gone, about 2minutes. Season to taste
with salt and vinegar, and serve.
1 tsp. balsamic vinegar; more to taste

Fine sea salt
67
FOR MORE GREAT
LENTIL RECIPES,
GO TO FINECOOKING
.COMLENTILS.
68
spanish pardina lentil and chorizo stew

Despite its humble looks, this stew is full of bold flavors and is super
satisfying. Serve it with crusty bread and a bottle of red wine, and
youre all set for a relaxing night. Serves 4 to 6
1 Tbs. olive oil
(about 1cups)
1 cup sliced carrots (inch thick)
cup chopped celery
1 tsp. finely chopped garlic
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
and cut into 1-inch pieces
7 oz. cured chorizo, halved
lengthwise, then sliced crosswise
inch thick (about 1cups)
tsp. dried oregano
tsp. smoked paprika
1 cups pardina lentils, rinsed
1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes
with their juice
Fine sea salt
cup chopped fresh cilantro; more
for garnish
Heat the oil in a 5-quart Dutch

oven or other heavy-duty pot over
medium-high heat. Add the onion,
carrots, celery, and garlic, and
cook, stirring occasionally, until the
vegetables begin to soften, about
4minutes. Stir in the potato, chorizo,
oregano, and paprika, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1minute. Add
the lentils and 4cups water. Bring to
a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook
until the lentils are just tender, 20 to
25minutes. Stir in the tomatoes and
their juice, and tsp. salt, and cook
for another 5minutes. Stir in the
cilantro, season to taste with salt and
pepper, and serve.
Pair With: GARNACHA A

Spanish wine for a Spanish
stew, this red has a fruitiness
that goes well with both
tomatoes and the bright-butsavory qualities of chorizo.
Spanish pardina lentils

Cooking time:
20 to 25 minutes
Originally from the Pyrenees region
of Spain, these small lentils are
sometimes called Spanish brown.
They have the classic lentil lens
shape, a speckled green-brown
skin, and yellow interior. They hold
their shape well when cooked, which
makes them ideal for stews and
chunkier soups as well as salads and
pilafs. Their distinctive mild, nutty
flavor pairs well with hardy greens
like kale; deep flavors like smoked
paprika; chorizo; and sharp cheeses.
They reheat well, too.
69
curried lentil-scallion pancakes

Though you cant see the lentils in this dish, you can definitely taste their earthy flavor. Make
the pancakes big and slice them to portion for serving. Or make silver-dollar-size pancakes
to use as canaps dotted with yogurt and, if youre feeling fancy, some smoked salmon or
caviar. Makes about nine 4-inch pancakes or 16 to 18silver dollars; serves 4 to 6
2 bunches scallions (about16)
cup canola oil; more for cooking
1 Tbs. curry powder, preferably Madras
tsp. ground cumin
Fine sea salt
4 oz. (1cup) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. baking powder
tsp. baking soda
cup yellow lentils, rinsed
1 cups plain yogurt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp. fresh lime juice
Trim the scallions and thinly slice the whites

to yield between and cup. Slice enough of
the greens thinly on the diagonal to yield about
1cups.
Heat about 1tsp. oil in a medium skillet over
medium heat. Add the scallion whites and cook,
stirring, until softened, about 2minutes. Add
another 1tsp. oil to the pan, and then the curry
powder, cumin, and tsp. salt. cook, stirring,
until combined and fragrant, about 15seconds.
Remove from the heat.
Whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking
soda, and 1tsp. salt in a medium bowl.
Position a medium-mesh sieve over a medium
bowl. in a 2-quart saucepan, bring the lentils and
1cups water to a boil over medium-high heat.
Reduce to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 11 to 13minutes. Drain through the
sieve, reserving cup of the cooking liquid; you will
have about 1 cup lentils.
Transfer the lentils to a medium bowl, and
mash with a fork until smooth, adding a little of the
reserved cooking liquid, if necessary. Add 1cup of
the yogurt, the egg, and cup oil, and stir to combine. Add the dry ingredients, cooked scallions
whites, and raw greens, and stir to combine.
in a small bowl, stir the remaining cup yogurt
with the lime juice, and season with a little pepper.
Lightly oil a nonstick griddle and heat over
medium-low heat (or set an electric griddle to
375f and lightly oil it).
Working in batches, pour about cup of the
batter onto the griddle, and spread with the back
70
of a spoon until the pancake is about 4inches in

diameter. Repeat to make more pancakes. (Alternatively, make silver-dollar-size pancakes.) cook,
undisturbed, until the top is very bubbly and
partially set, and the edges are browned, 2 to
3minutes. check the underside of each pancake
to make sure its nicely browned, then flip with
a spatula. cook until the second side is nicely
browned, 1 to 2minutes more. Transfer the pancakes to a baking sheet and keep warm in the oven
while you repeat with the remaining batter. cut
the pancakes into wedges if large, and serve with
the lime yogurt.
Yellow lentils
Cooking time:
10 to 15 minutes
Yellow lentils are split and skinned,
which means they cookand break
downvery quickly. Yellow lentils (as
well as red and orange lentils, which
cook similarly) are frequently found
in Indian cooking, where they are
used for the porridgelike side dal,
or to make dough for crackers and
breads. Yellow lentils are also often
featured in curries and stews, and
are delicious seasoned and served
over rice. They are often confused
with yellow split peas, which take
longer to cook and tend to have a
thicker, starchier texture.
71
from Rinds to Riches

ADDING A STOCK MADE FROM
CHEESE SCRAPS TO RISOTTO,
BRAISES, AND MORE IS
AN EASY, ECONOMICAL WAY
TO BOOST FLAVOR.
BY MELISSA PELLEGRINO
lmost everything I know

about cooking came from working
at small farm restaurants throughout Italy.
Each of the restaurants differed greatly
some were mom-and-pop places while
others offered a more formal white-linen
tablecloth experiencebut all shared the
belief of not wasting food. As an Italian
saying goes: The only part of the pig that is
not used is its squeal.
When my husband and I opened our own
restaurant six years ago in Connecticut, we
carried this philosophy with us. Thats why
when we had copious amounts of cheese
rinds left over thanks to a popular salad
featuring shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, we
decided to do like they do in Italy and make
a stock out of the rinds.
I had already been in the habit of using
leftover cheese rind, tucking it into a pot of
minestrone to add savory flavor, but making

a full-on broth is a great way to use up even
more rind. After all, aside from the flavor
from the bit of cheese thats still attached to
the rind, the rind itself, which is formed as the
result of a weeks long bath in a sea-salt brine,
imbues the broth with a full savory flavor.
Making such a broth couldnt be easier:
You simply simmer the rinds in water. I like
to add a little fresh thyme, black pepper,
and bay leaves, too, but just enough so that
the resulting thin, light-gold broth still tastes
almost entirely of the cheese. Im not a huge
fan of the broth on its own (though some
are), but I love how it adds umami flavor and
depth to dishes like butternut squash risotto,
which youll find on the following pages, along
with some of my other favorite dishes that
continued
benefit from the broth.
73
A few ways to find rinds

luckily, you dont have to invest in a huge
wheel of cheese to make this broth. for the
recipes full yield (about 4quarts), you need
a pound of rinds, but you can make smaller
batches of the broth using fewer rinds, too.
many grocery stores and cheese shops
sell rinds on the cheap; you can sometimes
find them wrapped for sale near the
cheeses, but likely you will need to ask
someone at the counter about them.
otherwise, just collect cheese rinds as you
use up your cheese. freeze them airtight,
and before you know it, youll have enough
to make a batch of broth. if youre too
impatient for that, you can make the broth
using a big chunk of cheese (see the recipe
below). its not frugal to make it that way,
but its still delicious.
Melissa Pellegrino is a Fine Cooking contributor. She
and her husband own Bufalina restaurant in Guilford,
Connecticut. hey are the authors of two cookbooks,
including he Italian Farmers Table: Authentic
Recipes and Local Lore from Northern Italy.
The cheese rind broth gets added little by

little, imbuing each grain of rice with flavor
as the risotto (right) cooks.
cheese rind broth

This savory broth makes use of something that might otherwise be
tossed. If you dont have a full pound of cheese rinds, the recipe can
be halved or even quartered as most of the recipes that follow require
2 to 7cups of the broth, which is less than this yields. You can also
make the full 4quarts of broth using an 8-oz. chunk of cheese in place
of the rinds. Makes about 4quarts
1 lb. rinds of ParmigianoReggiano or Grana Padano,
or a mix (32 to 4cups)
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves, preferably fresh
1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
combine the rinds, thyme, bay leaves,

and peppercorns in a large (8-quart) pot.
fill the pot with 5quarts cold
water, and bring to a boil over high
74
heat. reduce to a simmer, partially

cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the broth is fragrant and
light golden, 1 to 1hours. strain the
broth through a medium-mesh sieve
set over another pot or a bowl large
enough to hold the broth. the broth
can be made 3days ahead and kept
covered and refrigerated; or freeze in
smaller batches for up to 3months.
butternut squash risotto

Yes, cheese is often added to risotto,
but that flavor gets intensified when
using cheese rind broth, too. One bite,
and you may not go back to using
any other kind of broth for risotto.
Serves 6 to 8
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 large shallots, finely chopped (about
2cup)
1 small butternut squash, peeled,
seeded, and cut into small dice (about
21/3 cups)
Kosher salt
7 cups Cheese Rind Broth (recipe at left)
2 cups arborio rice, vialone nano, or
carnaroli rice
1 cup dry white wine
2 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
or Grana Padano (about 2Tbs.)
heat. Add 1tbs. of the shallots and cook,

stirring occasionally, until tender but not
browned, about 2minutes. Add the squash
and tsp. salt. Add just enough broth to
cover the squash, 1 to 1cups. bring to a
simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover,
and cook until the squash is just tender,
5to 6minutes. remove from the heat and
set aside.
meanwhile, pour the remaining broth
into a 3-quart saucepan and bring to a boil.
remove from the heat.
in a 5- to 6-quart dutch oven or other
heavy-duty pot, heat 1tbs. of the butter
and the remaining 1tbs. oil over mediumlow heat. Add the remaining shallots and
cook, stirring occasionally, until tender
but not browned, 2 to 3minutes. Add the
rice and cook, stirring, until lightly toasted,
about 2minutes. Add the wine and cook
until the bottom of the pot is almost dry,
2to 3minutes.
Using a ladle, add just enough hot broth

to cover the rice (about 1cups), and
cook, stirring, until the broth has reduced
to below the rice. Add more broth to cover,
and continue cooking and stirring the
rice in this manner until the rice begins
to look translucent, 5 to 10minutes.
Add the squash and any broth from the
skillet. continue cooking, adding more
broth as needed, until the rice is al dente,
the squash is very tender, and the dish
looks creamy, another 10 to 12minutes.
season with 1tbs. salt and tsp. pepper. Add the remaining 1tbs. butter, the
grated cheese, and thyme, and stir until the
cheese melts. season to taste with salt and
pepper, and serve.
Pair With: VIOGNIER While Chardonnay goes beautifully with butternut
squash, Viognier adds brown butter
flavors and floral aromas for an even
better experience.
heat 1tbs. of the butter and 1tbs. of the

oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-low
75
The broth makes a delicious but subtle

sauce for the braise at right. Add it after
browning the bird.
the toAsty notes in

the cheese rind
broth Add deep
flAvor to A hUmble
chicken dish .
76
braised chicken legs with

prosciutto, sweet potatoes,
and olives
Tender chicken is at the heart of this homey braise,
but its the other ingredientsthe broth, rich prosciutto, sweet potatoes, and tangy olivesthat make
it memorable. Serves 4 to 6
6 chicken leg quarters, or 6bone-in,
skin-on thighs and 6drumsticks
(about 4lb.)
2 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto (about 4slices),
cut crosswise into -inch strips
1 small onion, finely chopped (about 1cup)
1 celery rib, finely chopped (about 2cup)
1 carrot, finely chopped (about 1/3cup)
22 cups Cheese Rind Broth (recipe p. 74)
1 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into medium dice
(about 22cups)
1 sprig fresh oregano
2 cup pitted Picholine olives
pat the chicken dry, and season with 1tsp. salt and 1tsp.
pepper. heat 1tbs. of the oil in an 7-quart dutch oven or other
heavy-duty pot over medium-high heat. in batches, cook the
chicken, skin side down to start and flipping once, until golden
brown, 8 to 10minutes total. transfer to a plate.
pour off all but a thin layer of fat from the pot, lower the
heat to medium, and add the remaining 1tbs. oil. Add the prosciutto and cook, stirring occasionally, until crisp, 1to 2minutes. Add the onion, celery, carrot, and tsp. salt and cook,
stirring, until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned,
about 5minutes. Add the wine, increase the heat to medium
high, and cook, scraping up any browned bits, until the pot is
almost dry, 3 to 5minutes.
return the chicken pieces to the pan. Add the broth, potatoes, and oregano. bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, cover,
and cook for 10minutes. Add the olives, turn the chicken over,
and continue cooking, covered, until the chicken is cooked
through (165f on an instant-read thermometer), another
10to 15 minutes.
transfer the chicken, sweet potatoes, and olives to a
serving dish and loosely cover with foil to keep warm. bring
the braising liquid to a boil over medium-high heat and cook,
stirring, until slightly thickened, 5 to 10minutes. discard the
oregano. pour some of the sauce over the chicken and serve,
passing the rest of the sauce at the table.
Pair With: HEFEWEIZEN This beer is creamy and slightly
fruity to go with the sweet potatoes, but also bright
enough for the olives.
77
pasta with pork and chestnut rag

Roasted chestnuts, available at most
supermarkets (see p. 96), add a low-key
sweetness to the meaty sauce. Fresh
rosemary adds its aromatic magic,
making this hearty dish perfect for a
cold winter night. Serves 4 to 6
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
1 small yellow onion, finely diced
(about 1cup)
Kosher salt
1 lb. ground pork
2 cups Cheese Rind Broth (recipe
p.74)
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
1 cups coarsely chopped jarred roasted
chestnuts (about 5 oz.)
Cheese rind broth does double duty in the

pasta at right: Its used to cook the pork and
to loosen the sauce just before serving.
78

10 to 12oz. pasta, such as pappardelle
or malfaldine (see p. 96)
2 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 oz. finely grated ParmigianoReggiano or Grana Padano (2cup)
heat the oil in a 12-inch straight-sided saut pan

or skillet over medium-low heat. Add the garlic
and cook, turning occasionally, until golden
brown, 2 to 3minutes. discard the garlic. Add
the onion and tsp. salt, and cook, stirring, until
tender but not browned, 3 to 4minutes.
raise the heat to medium high, and add
the ground pork and tsp. salt. cook, stirring
to break the meat into pieces, until lightly
browned, 7 to 9minutes. Add the wine and
cook until the pan is almost dry, 1 to 2minutes. Add 1cup of the broth and the bay leaf,
reduce the heat to low, and simmer until most
of the liquid has evaporated, 10 to 15minutes.

Add the chestnuts and rosemary, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until the flavors meld,
3 to 5minutes more. remove the bay leaf.
season to taste with salt and pepper.
meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted
water to a boil. cook the pasta according to
package directions until al dente. Add the
pasta and cup of the broth to the sauce, and
toss well to coat. if the sauce looks dry, add
more broth. season to taste with salt and pepper. toss with the parsley, and top with some of
the grated cheese, passing the rest at the table.
Pair With: DRY SHERRY Sherries have
both nuttiness and salinity, which pair
well with the chestnuts and cheese.
Lighter sherries like fino and manzanilla
will be saltier while darker ones like
amontillado and oloroso will be nuttier.
Using broth in a soup is an obvious move,

but cheese rind broth adds a different kind
of richness thats most welcome.
parsnip and parmesan soup with pumpkin seed pesto

This silky soup is quite good on its own, but the gorgeous green pesto adds a burst of flavor. Serves 4
cup roasted, salted pepitas (pumpkin
seeds); more for garnish (optional)
1 lb. medium parsnips, peeled

and cut into 2-inch dice
(about 2cups)
3 oz. fresh basil leaves, stems

removed (2packed cups)
5 cups Cheese Rind Broth

(recipe p.74)
FOR THE PESTO
4 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano or
Grana Padano, coarsely grated
(about cup)
Kosher salt
FOR THE SOUP
2 leeks, white and light-green parts
only, halved, thinly sliced crosswise
into -inch half-moons and well
washed (about 2cups)
1 rib celery, finely chopped
(about 2cup)
Kosher salt
MAKE THE PESTO
pulse the pepitas in a food processor or

blender until finely chopped. Add the basil,
cheese, and a pinch of salt, and pulse to
combine. with the motor running, add the
oil in a slow, steady stream until the pesto is
blended; it will be thick. (the pesto will keep
for 3days covered and refrigerated.)
and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables

are tender but not browned, 8 to 10minutes. Add the parsnips, and stir to coat. Add
the broth and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. reduce the heat to low and cook,
simmering, until the vegetables are tender,
about 20minutes.
working in batches if necessary, pure
the soup in a blender until smooth. wipe
out the pot, return the soup to the pot, and
season to taste with salt. stir the pesto,
dollop some onto each serving of soup, and
sprinkle with a few pepitas, if you like.
MAKE THE SOUP
heat the oil in a 4- to 5-quart dutch oven

or other heavy-duty pot over medium-low
heat. Add the leeks, celery, and tsp. salt,
Pair With: CHARDONNAY Oak-aged

Chardonnay will be creamy, accenting
the cheese. Unoaked will be crisper
and lighter, accenting the leeks and
celery. Either will be great.
79
Vegetables You Should Be
Roasting
Surprise! Green beans, jcama, cabbage, and artichoke hearts
get a flavor boost from time in a hot oven. b y D i a n a a n D r e w s
I love roasted vegetables so
much that Ive moved beyond roasting

the usual suspects, such as potatoes, winter squash, and beets, and on to those that
most people might not think to roast, like
green beans, cabbage, and even jcama.
and you should, too.
as with all vegetables, roasting intensiies the lavors of these unlikely candidates, preserving their sweetness and creating hard-to-resist crisp edges. delicious
when simply lavored and served as a side
dish, they also work as tasty components

for all kinds of main dishes. roasted
green beans, for example, make a tomato
and bread salad well suited to coldweather eating, thanks to the toasty lavor
they impart. Cubes of roasted jcama add
texture to a hearty vegetable soup, and
roasted artichoke hearts need little more
than a toss with pasta to become a delicious dinner.
roasting vegetables is easy and relatively hands of; toss them with oil, season
them, put them in the oven, and then

forget about them for a while. (You can
even prep them ahead and leave the roasting for later.) In fact, its so easy, you may
want to double the recipes; that way, you
can serve the roasted vegetables as a side
one night and as part of the main course
the next. Whats not to love about that?
Diana Andrews is Fine Cookings food editor/
test kitchen manager.
roast with the most

youll find recipes for the vegetables at right on the following pages. below are some others that are
great roasted, too. For all, lightly coat with olive oil, season with kosher salt and pepper, and spread
on a rimmed baking sheet. roast at 425F, tossing occasionally, until tender and lightly browned.
80
CELERY
Cut ribs into 1-inch
pieces.
CAULIFLOWER
AND BROCCOLI
Cut into florets.
CORN
slice corn planks
from the cob and brush
both sides with oil.
Gently flip planks with
a spatula occasionally
during roasting.
KALE OR COLLARD
GREENS
strip the greens from
the stems and tear
into bite-size pieces.
FENNEL
Cut the bulb into
1-inch pieces.
ONIONS
Dont peel the onion
before roasting. Cut
the onion into -inchthick crosswise slices.
RADISHES
Leave whole, if small,
about 1inch in diameter;
otherwise, cut in half or
1-inch pieces.
PEAS, FRESH
OR FROZEN
if using fresh, blanch
and pat dry before
roasting. if using frozen,
thaw and pat dry before
roasting.
SUGAR SNAP PEAS

remove strings before
roasting.
green beans
A RT I C H O K E H E A RT S
JCAMA
s avoy c a b b ag e
roasted green bean panzanella
Roasted green beans make

this summery salad work well
in winter. On its own, it makes
a great vegetarian main dish,
but it also serves as a hearty
side or starter. serves 4
baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes
(about 4cups)
tsp. granulated garlic
black pepper
1 tbs. balsamic vinegar
tbs. fresh lemon juice
roasted Green beans (recipe
at left), cut into 1-inch pieces
1 cup halved cherry tomatoes
cup mozzarella pearls (perline)
or quartered ciliegine (see
p.95)

roasted green beans
Roasting green beans creates caramelized notes that pair well with bright
lemon zest. Serve with roasted chicken
or seared salmon, or feature the beans
in the bread salad at right. serves 4
1 lb. green beans, trimmed
black pepper
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
(optional)

heat to 425f.
on a rimmed baking sheet, toss the green
beans with the oil, tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper, and spread in a single layer. Roast until
the bottoms begin to brown, about 15minutes. toss, rearrange on the baking sheet, and
roast until tender and golden brown in places,
about 5minutes more.
toss the beans with the lemon zest, if
using, season to taste, and serve.
82
on a rimmed baking sheet, toss

the bread cubes with 3tbs. of the
oil, the garlic, tsp. salt, and tsp.
pepper, spread in a single layer, and
toast, tossing halfway through, until
light golden brown, 9to 10minutes.
meanwhile, in a small bowl whisk
the remaining 2tbs. oil, the balsamic vinegar, lemon juice, tsp.
salt, and tsp. pepper.
in a medium bowl, combine
the bread cubes, green beans,
tomatoes, mozzarella, and vinaigrette. Let the salad sit, tossing
occasionally, until the bread begins
to soften, about 20minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper,
and serve.
Pair with: MRZEN Bready,
rich, and bright, this beer
perfectly complements those
qualities of the salad.
garlicky roasted
artichoke hearts
Panko adds crunch to this Italianinspired side; it pairs well with a seared
flaky fish like cod. The artichokes also
add flavor and texture to the pasta at
right. serves 4
12 oz. thawed frozen artichoke hearts,
drained and patted dry
Kosher salt
cup panko
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes;
more to taste
1 tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Lemon wedges, for serving (optional)

heat to 425f.
on a rimmed baking sheet, toss the artichokes with 2tbs. oil and tsp. salt, spread
in a single layer, and roast until the artichokes
are golden on the bottom, about 20minutes.
flip and roast until golden brown in places,
5to 7 minutes.
in an 8-inch nonstick skillet, heat 1tbs. oil
on medium-low heat. add the garlic and stir
with a wooden spoon until fragrant, about
30seconds. add the panko and a pinch of
salt, and stir until the oil is absorbed and the
panko turns golden brown, 2 to 3minutes.
in a large bowl, toss the artichokes with the
panko, pepper flakes, and remaining 1tbs. oil.
Serve sprinkled with the parsley and lemon
wedges on the side, if you like.
pasta with garlicky roasted artichoke

hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, and olives
1 tsp. minced garlic
Tender roasted artichokes and

crispy panko add nutty, toasted
flavors to a pasta brimming with
briny olives and sweet sun-dried
tomatoes. serves 4
Kosher salt
12 oz. penne, mezze rigatoni, or
similar short pasta
cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
Garlicky roasted artichoke
hearts (recipe at left)
cup coarsely chopped sun-dried
tomatoes
cup coarsely chopped pitted
Castelvetrano or Cerignola olives
cup extra-virgin olive oil; more
for drizzling
oz. Grana Padano or Parmigianoreggiano, finely grated (about
cup); more for serving
Lemon wedges, for serving

(optional)
bring a large pot of well-salted water

to a boil. cook the pasta according to
package directions until al dente.
meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the parsley and lemon zest. add
the pasta, artichokes, tomatoes,
olives, oil, and cheese, and toss until
well combined. Drizzle with more oil,
top with additional cheese, and serve
with lemon wedges, if you like.
Pair with: PINOT GRIGIO
Artichokes are notoriously
challenging for wine pairing, but
here, theyre roasted, reducing
their vegetal qualities. Pinot
Grigio has not-too-light weight
and good acidity thatll bring
together the flavors of the dish.
83
thai-style roasted cabbage

Peppery cabbage becomes delightfully sweet post
roast. Paired with a Thai-inspired dressing, it makes
a perfect side for steak and a great base for larb
(recipe below). serves 4
1 medium head savoy cabbage, halved
through the core, cut lengthwise into
-inch ribbons, thick ribs and core
discarded (about 16cups)
2 tbs. grapeseed or vegetable oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
3 tbs. fresh lime juice
1 tbs. fish sauce
1 tbs. packed dark brown sugar
1 tbs. packed finely chopped fresh cilantro;
more for garnish
tsp. sambal oelek; more to taste
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 425f.

on a rimmed baking sheet, toss the cabbage with the oil,
tsp. salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Spread the cabbage
out (its ok if the cabbage is mounded; it will shrink as it
roasts), and roast, tossing every 10minutes, until tender
and most of the cabbage has turned golden brown, 45 to
50minutes.
meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the lime juice, garlic,

fish sauce, sugar, cilantro, and sambal oelek.
transfer the cabbage to a large bowl and toss with 2tbs.
of the dressing. Season to taste with additional dressing
and salt, top with cilantro, if using, and serve.
spicy chicken larb with thai-style roasted cabbage

The unofficial national dish of Laos, larb
is also popular in Thailand and exemplifies the bold flavors of the region.
Usually served with fresh vegetables as
a salad, its made more winter friendly
served over Thai-Style Roasted Cabbage. serves 4
3 tbs. soy sauce
1 tbs. light or dark brown sugar
1 tsp. fish sauce
tsp. sambal oelek; more to taste
3 tbs. grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 cups finely chopped sweet onion
1 thai bird chile, half seeded and minced,
half cut into rings and reserved for garnish,
if desired
1 tsp. minced garlic
1 lb. ground chicken
cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

Kosher salt
1 tsp. finely grated lime zest; more
to taste
1 tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste
thai-style roasted Cabbage
(recipe above)
3 to 4 scallions, green parts only, thinly
sliced on a diagonal (about cup)
cup coarsely chopped dry-roasted
peanuts
in a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce, sugar, fish

sauce, and sambal oelek.
in a 12-inch nonstick skillet, heat the oil over
medium-high heat. add the onion and minced
chile, and cook, stirring frequently, until the
onion begins to soften, 2 to 3minutes. add
the garlic and cook just until fragrant, about
30seconds.
add the chicken and cook, breaking it up

with a wooden spoon, until no longer pink, 6 to
8minutes.
add the soy sauce mixture, half of the
cilantro, and tsp. salt. cooking, stirring, until
the pan is almost dry, about 2minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat, and add
the lime zest and juice. toss to combine, and
season to taste with more zest, juice, and salt.
Serve the chicken over the cabbage. top
with the remaining cilantro, scallions, peanuts,
and chile rings, if using.
Pair with: RIESLING Riesling is always a
good bet for Thai food. For this dish, one
from a cooler climate will be especially
gooditll have more lime flavors to
complement the lime in the dish.
85
vegetable and quinoa soup

with sweet and hot roasted jcama
This zesty soup is perfect on a
cold day. When served with the
toasted baguette and garlic
butter, it makes a satisfying meal.
serves 4 to 6
1 medium head garlic
3 tbs. plus 2tsp. extra-virgin olive
oil; more as needed
black pepper
2 small carrots, peeled and cut into
medium dice (about 1cup)
small butternut squash, peeled
and cut into medium dice (about
1cup)
1 small sweet onion, finely chopped
(about 1cup)
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. ground ginger
8 cups vegetable broth
sweet and hot

roasted jcama
Jcama is more prized for its fresh crunch
than its mild flavor. Roasted, it still has
crunch but is sweeter, which makes a toss
with hot sauce welcome. Good with barbecued ribs or fried fish, its a standout in the
vegetable soup at right. serves 4
1 medium jcama (1lb.), peeled and cut into
medium dice (about 5cups)
3 tbs. finely chopped red onion
2 tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. hot sauce, such as Crystal; more to taste
1 tsp. finely grated lime zest

to 425f.
on a rimmed baking sheet, toss the jcama with
2tbs. of the oil, tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper, and
arrange in a single layer. cover tightly with foil and
roast, 25minutes. Remove the foil and continue
roasting, tossing frequently, until the jcama begins
to brown on the bottom and is crisp-tender, about
30minutes more.
in a medium bowl, combine the jcama, the
remaining 1tbs. oil, the onion, parsley, hot sauce,
lime zest, and tsp. salt. toss to coat and serve.
86
1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes with

their juice
2 sprigs fresh thyme
sweet and hot roasted Jcama
(recipe at left)
1 small bunch Lacinato kale, ribs
removed, leaves cut into
bite-size pieces (about 5cups)
1 15-oz. can cannellini beans, rinsed
and drained
2 cups cooked quinoa (from about
cup dry)
1 tbs. unsalted butter, softened
toasted baguette slices, for
serving
cup roasted salted pepitas
Lime wedges, for serving

cut the top off the head of garlic to
expose the cloves. Put the garlic on a
piece of aluminum foil large enough to
wrap it in, drizzle with 2tsp. of the oil,
and season with tsp. salt, and tsp.
pepper. Wrap in the foil.
on a rimmed baking sheet, toss
the carrots and squash with 1tbs.
oil, tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper, and

spread in a single layer. Place the
wrapped garlic on the same baking
sheet, and roast, tossing the carrots
and squash occasionally, until golden
brown in places and just tender, 18to
20minutes for the vegetables and
20to 30minutes for the garlic (put the
garlic packet directly on the rack if it
needs more time in the oven).
meanwhile, in a 6- to 7-quart Dutch
oven or other heavy-duty pot, heat
2tbs. oil over medium heat. add the
onion and cook, stirring occasionally,
until it begins to soften, about 2minutes. add the cinnamon and ginger,
and stir to combine. add the broth,
tomatoes and their juice, thyme, and
jcama. bring to a boil, then reduce to
a simmer.
Squeeze the roasted garlic cloves
into a small bowl and mash into a
paste with a fork. transfer half of the
paste to another small bowl. Whisk
3to 4tbs. of the soup broth into one
of the bowls of roasted garlic, and add
it to the pot; stir to combine. add the
kale and cook until it begins to wilt,
about 5minutes. add the carrots,
squash, beans, and quinoa, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until just heated
through, about 2minutes.
meanwhile, add the butter and
tsp. salt to the remaining mashed
garlic and stir until combined. Spread
onto the toasted baguette slices.
Serve the soup drizzled with oil and
sprinkled with pepitas, with the
baguette slices and lime wedges on
the side.
Pair with: PINOT NOIR This
soup calls for a light red. Kale,
roasted garlic, and quinoa point
to an earthy one like Pinot Noir.
87
scale
Bag
This Easy One Pot Meal is All Natural and Extra Juicy
with NEW If You Care Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bags.

RECIPE
Juicy Roasted Chicken Thighs in a Bag
Ingredients
Sustainable.
FSC and
Compostable Certied.
Non-GMO. Non-Toxic.
Gluten and Allergen Free.
Totally Chlorine Free.
Vegan. Vegetarian.
Renewable Resources.
All Natural.
1 tbsp Maille Dijon Originale Mustard

3 tbsp dry white wine
1 lemon, zested and juiced
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 tsp fresh thyme
1lb ngerling potatoes, halved
1 leek, trimmed and sliced in inch pieces
Serves 4-6
2 shallots, thinly sliced

1 lemon, thinly sliced
8 chicken thighs, skin on
1 tsp garlic powder
tsp sea salt
tsp freshly cracked black pepper
3 tbsp butter
Preparation
mustard mixture on top of the chicken and vegetables and fold
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
2. In a small bowl, mix together Maille Dijon Originale Mustard, the open end of the bag tightly towards the top as many times as
white wine, lemon juice and zest, garlic, and thyme, then set aside. possible to seal.
3. Place potatoes, leeks, and shallots in an If You Care Medium 4. Roast in the oven for 35 minutes, then remove and open the bag
Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bag, seam side up on a rimmed by either ripping or cutting with scissors to expose the top of the
baking sheet or roasting pan. Then season the chicken with chicken. Baste chicken with butter, then place back in oven to
the garlic powder, salt and pepper and place inside the bag on roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until desired brownness,
top of the vegetables. Place the lemon slices in the bag and pour then serve and enjoy!
ifyoucare.com/roastingbags
88
T E S T K I TC H E N
Tips/Techniques/Equipment/Ingredients/Glossary
TECHNIQUE
Homemade
tortilla chips
For the freshest tortilla chips, perfect for
the nachos on p.62, make them yourself.
Simply cut corn tortillas into wedge-shaped
pieces, and then deep-fry them in vegetable
oil heated to 350F until lightly colored, about
a minute or so. Turn them occasionally as they
cook, then transfer the chips to a baking sheet
lined with paper towels. Season lightly with
kosher or sea salt. For best results, use (or
make) pure corn tortillas; in our experience,
chips made with added wheat flour didnt
become as crisp. For a baked version, see Fine
Cooking.com/bakedchips.Diana Andrews
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Diana Andrews
89
TECHNIQUE
Breaking down
butternut squash
EQUIPMENT
Why are some pots

called Dutch ovens?
Read through the recipes in this issue, including the braises
on pp. 44-51 and the chicken legs on p. 77, and youll see
we oten call for cooking in a Dutch oven, a heavy-duty
cast-iron pot that comes with a tight-tting lid. he earliest
references to this type of pot refer to it as a black pot or
cooking cauldron. In early history, they were made solely
of cast iron and used for cooking over open res to boil,
bake, fry, or stew. At this time, the method for casting iron
produced very thick walls and a rough nish to the sides.
However, sometime in the 1600s, Dutch artisans developed
a superior method for casting. Using dry sand to make the
molds, they were able to produce pots with ner sides and
a smooth nish, and they began to export these pots to
Britain and eventually the Americas. In the Americas, the
pots were most commonly sold door-to-door by traveling
Dutch traders. Whether we owe the Dutch in Dutch oven to
the origins of the casting process or to the traders who sold
them remains unclear. What is clear is that no matter what
you call itDutch oven, French oven, camp oven, tetsunabe
(in Japanese)its versatility remains the same. Lisa Lahey
Its easy to see why cubed butternut squash sells so well

at the supermarket: The thick shell of a buttenut squash
can be a pain to deal with. Starting with a whole squash is
cheaper than buying it cubed, and its fresher, too. For an
efficient way to butcher a butternut to use in the risotto
on p. 75, follow the steps below.
R.D.
1
Cut off the top and
the bulbous bottom
with a large, sturdy
knife; most of the
meat lies within the
neck of the squash.
(You can garner some
flesh from the rounded end, but another
idea is to seed it, stuff
it, and bake it.)
TIP
Give me a C!
(Not an O)
When preparing shrimp, cook them
until pink but still shaped like a C
and not an O. hink of the C as
cooked and the O as overcooked,
and youll be all set. Ronne Day
90
Stand the squash

neck up on one of the
cut ends and slice
the skin off in strips,
being sure to remove
not only the hard
exterior shell but
also the lightercolored flesh just
under the surface,
which is tough and
lacks flavor.
3
If dicing the squash,
slice it to the thickness of the dice. Cut
the slices into the
right-size strips, and
then crosswise into
the dice.
INGREDIENT
Loin
Pork
butt
Picnic
roast
INGREDIENT
When is a shoulder a butt?

A FRESH LOOK AT
Despite what its name may imply, pork butt comes from the front leg of a pig.
Medjool dates
According to butcher Pat LaFrieda, pork butt got its name from the wooden barrels,
We cant blame you if you think Medjool

dates, which lend sweetness to the
Orange, Pear, and Date Salad on p. 54, are
a dried fruit. Just look at them, all dark
and wrinkly. But the truth is, these particular dates are considered a fresh fruit,
and they are not dried after picking. They
are, however, left on the treethe date
palm, which grows in hot, arid conditions
long enough to ripen to a stage that is
sometimes referred to as naturally dried,
sun-dried, or cured. Once the dates reach
this stage, they are sturdier for picking
and packing, and less prone to spoiling or
fermenting. And they taste great, too.
Despite their dry look, the dates are
soft, creamy, and luscious with a sweet
caramel-like flavor. Medjools, which are
hand-picked and sorted by size, quality,
and moisture content, are the second
most widely sold variety of date in the
United States and are grown in Southern
California and Arizona as well as in the
Middle East (where they originated thousands of years ago) and Northern Africa.
(In the U.S., the most commonly sold date
by far is the Deglet noor, which is not as
moist as a Medjool.) Medjools are harvested in October, but they will last a
couple of months at room temperature
and up to a year in the fridge, which means
you can enjoy these sweet treats any time
L.L.
you like. For sources, see p. 96.
a pork butt may also be called a Boston butt.) he butt is cut from the upper half of
Illustration by Janet Stein
called butts, that it was once packed in. (And because this term originated in Boston,
the shoulder; the bottom half of the shoulder is called a picnic roast (and why that is
will be discussed another day) and is usually sold skin on. For the braises on pp.4451, both cuts from the shoulder, picnic and butt, work well. And what about the pigs
actual butt? hat, my friends, would be ham.
Joanne Smart
TIP
Pressing
matters
If youre like most people, the
first time you use the kind of
manual juicer shown here, youll
do it wrong. Youll put the halved
citrus in the holder cut side up
so that it fits the bowl shape (top
photo). As soon as you press,
youll know something is amiss
when more juice goes in your eye
than into the bowl to collect the
juice. The fruit should go in, counterintuitively, cut side down (bottom photo). That way, the juice
pours out neatly in the desired
direction.
D.A.
91
trY this
Lingonberries
Lingonberries, tiny bright red berries that grow on
evergreen shrubs, are found both cultivated and wild
in the colder northern regions of Europe and North
America. heyre generally categorized into two types:
wild (or American) and cultivated (or European). You
dont oten nd fresh berries here (theyre in season
in August in the U.S. and in late fall in Europe).
However, lingonberries, which resemble cranberries in tartness and texture, are typically made into
relishes, jams, and preserves that are widely available
year-round. In savory preparations, the preserves
traditionally are served with Swedish meatballs and
rich meats, such as duck, goose, or venison. Lingonberry preserves are great on toast and used liked other
jams in baked goods, such as these pastries (recipe
at right). You can nd lingonberry preserves at most
well-stocked supermarkets near the jams and jellies.
Other lingonberry products include juices, syrups,
wines, and liqueurs.
D.A.
92
ingreDient
lingonberry
cream cheese pastries
These individual tarts are simple to make
using purchased puff pastry. You can prepare
them up to the point of baking, freeze them,
and then bake one whenever you want a
fresh-from-the-oven treat. Makes 6 pastries
3 oz. (6tbs.) cream cheese, softened
1 tsp. confectioners sugar
cup (7oz.) lingonberry preserves
tsp. minced fresh rosemary
unbleached all-purpose flour, as needed
1 17.3-oz. package frozen Pepperidge farm
puff pastry sheets, thawed according to
package directions
1 large egg beaten with 1tbs. water
cup sanding or sparkling sugar
in a small bowl, combine the cream cheese and confectioners sugar. in another small bowl, combine the
preserves and rosemary.
Lightly flour a work surface and rolling pin, roll out a
sheet of the dough to 10x10inches, and then cut into
three 3x5-inch rectangles.
Spread 1Tbs. of the cream cheese mixture on
each of three of the rectangles, leaving a -inch
border. Top each with 2 Tbs. of the lingonberry mixture. moisten the border with some of the egg wash.
gently fold the remaining rectangles of dough in
half lengthwise; dont crease the fold. Using a sharp
knife, cut three -inch-long slashes along the folded
edge. Unfold and place on top of the filling, stretching to fit. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork,
then transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Trim the edges, if desired, with a pizza wheel or knife.
Repeat with the remaining pastry dough and
ingredients to make six pastries. Refrigerate the pastries for 30minutes. (or freeze until hard, wrap, and
store for up to 3months; finish and bake right from
the freezer as directed.)
Brush each pastry with some of the egg wash,
and sprinkle each with 2tsp. of the sanding sugar.
to 400F. Bake the pastries, rotating the sheet halfway through, until golden brown and puffed, about
20minutes (25minutes if frozen).
Let cool for 15minutes on the baking sheet, then
transfer to a rack. Serve slightly warm or at room
temperature.
D.A.
A gem of a lettuce
A couple of recipes in this issue call for Little Gem lettuce, an heirloom romaine showing up on menus and in supermarkets around
the country. With compact heads about the size of a hand, dark
green leaves, andcompared to romainea less intrusive center
stalk, Little Gem is crisp but also sweet and tender. A favorite in
Europe for decadesits called sucrine in Franceits leaves have
nooks that are great for capturing dressing. It looks dramatic yet
perfectly portioned when served sliced lengthwise into halves or
quarters as in the Little Gem and Prosciutto Salad on p. 42. he
separated leaves are great for dipping, and the lettuce can stand up
to the grill, oven, or saut pan, too. Baby romaine makes a good
substitute if you cant nd Little Gem.
J.S.
ingreDient
What is neufchtel cheese?

Neufchtel (NOOF-sha-tell) is actually two things: a French creamy
cheese, oten heart-shaped, with a mold-ripened rind that hails from the
town of Neufchtel in Normandy; and, in the United States, a reducedfat cream cheese. You likely wont come across the true raw-milk French
product here, but you might spot a pasteurized version of it. You can nd
the cream cheese-style Neufchtel in just about every supermarket in the
U.S., right next to the cream cheese.
Most American recipes calling
for Neufchtel mean this cheese;
its the one that adds the creamy
tang to the grits on p. 20. If you
cant nd it, you can use plain
block-style cream cheese with little
dierence except for more calories
and fat.
R.D.
93
INGREDIENT
Finally...
Comfort that
looks as good
as it feels.
Indulge in the luxurious feel and deep-cushioned

support of GelPro Elite, the worlds most
comfortable oor mat. Featuring GelPros
exclusive Dual Comfort Core of patented gel
and energy-return foam, this stylish comfort
mat is available in hundreds of designer patterns
and colors to complement any space.
1.866.435.6287
GelPro.com
Peppadews
Select styles at
Handcrafted in the USA
with imported top fabric
Bella Copper
Peppadew is the trademarked name for

a kind of South african pepper typically
sold brined. about the size of a golf
ball, these peppers add sweetness and
a touch of heat to the egg sandwich
on p.24, but theyre also perfect for
stuffing (with cheese or sweet sausage)
and baking. Look for them at the market
where jarred or pickled peppers are
sold, or see Sources, p.96. D.A.
TIP
Grate garlic
Solid Copper Heat Diffusers

and Defroster Plates
Equalized Heating No hot spots
They really work! because copper
conducts heat better.
Excellent as an oven plate!

Made in USA since 2002
805 218 3241
www.BellaCopper.com
FW-FH-FC 1/6v ad 14p3 x 28p6
94
FW-FH-FC 1/6v ad 14p3 x 28p6
When a recipe calls for minced

garlic or garlic paste, we oten
reach for a rasp-style grater. Grating a clove is easy, and the result
ofers the same pronounced garlic
lavor. Its also a handy way to add
garlic to a simmering sauce; just
grate it right over the pot. D.A.
INGREDIENT
making sense of
mozzarella sizes
When Jamie Schler (Citrus Bliss, p. 52) sent
over a recipe calling for ciliegine, I figured it
was her French slipping in (the food writer
lives in France). But the word is actually Italian
(say it chee-lee-ay-JEE-nay) and means little
cherry, which describes the size of the mozzarella balls Schler recommended for her salad
on p. 54. Next time I was at the market, I took
a closer look at the various packages of fresh
mozzarella, and there it was in plain sight.
Though larger balls (8oz. and 16oz.) and logs
of fresh mozzarella dont go by such poetic
names, the smaller sizes do. Here are some of
the more common ones.
J.S.
CILIEGINE
PERLE
Perle (pearl)
The tiniest of balls, they
are about the size of
you guessed itpearls.
Ciliegine
Weighing in at about
oz., these are cherrysize balls.
Noccioline
Not as common as pearl,
these are about the size
of a shelled hazelnut
or peanut. (Noccioline
means nut.)
BOCCONCINI
Bocconcini
Though it translates
to mouthful, at about
1oz. these would be
a pretty big one.
Ovaline
Egg-size balls, about
4oz. each.
Be part of our Emmy-nominated television show
enter to
WIN
Sweepstakes
ENTER TO WIN 2 tickets to a pop-up feast and be
an extra on the set as we tape a Season 5 episode of
Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking. To enter, go to:
finecooking.com/winfeast

is a production of WGBH Boston and
distributed by American Public Television.
Series funding
provided by:
SEA SALT
Winner of the:
2016 The Taunton Press
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O m
95
SOURCES
TECHNIQUE
How to shuck
an oyster
To make the Angels on Horseback on
p. 39, you need shucked oysters in their
shells. (The fishmonger can do it for you,
but its difficult to get shucked oysters
home in the shell without losing their
liquor.) Heres how to shuck them yourself. For a video on how to shuck oysters,
visit FineCooking.com/oysters. D.A.
On Location, p. 37
Chiles de arbol, $4.80 for 4 oz., thespice
house.com, 312-676-2414.
Piment dEspelette, $12.95 for a jar,

surlatable.com, 800-243-0852.
Jarred piquillo peppers, $11.95 for 7 oz.,
From
Rinds to
Riches, p. 72
Jarred chestnuts, $2.89 for 5.3oz.,
vitacost.com, 800-381-0759.
tienda.com, 800-710-4304.
Make It Tonight, p. 19
Giuseppe Cocco Pappardelle Large

Garam masala, $7.95 for a -cup jar,
Egg Pasta, $36 for 8.8oz, amazon.com,
888-280-4331.
penzeys.com, 800-741-7787.
Peppadew
peppers,
Roll up one end of a kitchen towel,

and use it to brace the oyster and
keep it from slipping. With the oyster
flatter side up, gently push an oyster
knife into the hinge. Once its in, twist
and rotate the knife until you hear a
quiet but satisfying pop.
prices vary,
peppadewusa
.com, 908580-9100.
Grana Padano, $10 for lb., murrays

cheese.com, 888-692-4339.
Oranges, p. 52
Orange varieties, prices vary, melissas

.com, 800-588-0151.
Gently push the blade in further,
and making sure to keep the blade
pressed up against the top of the
inside of the top shell, move it back
and forth to sever the adductor
muscle.
Organic Medjool dates, $9.45 for 1lb.,

sunorganicfarm.com, 888-269-9888.
Lentils, p. 64
Lentils varieties, prices vary; palouse
Backward Braise, p. 44
Porcini powder, $16.99 for 4.5 oz.,
dartagnan.com, 800-327-8246.
Dried porcini mushrooms, $6.45 for 1 oz.,

urbani.com, 212-247-8800.
brand.com; bobsredmill.com, 800-3492173; timelessfood.com, 406-866-3340;

goldminenaturalfoods.com, 800-475-3663.
Nachos, p. 62, and

On Location, p. 37
Various bowls, from $10 to $18,
bantamtileworks.com,
860-361-9306.
Take off the top shell, and then

move the knife blade under the
oyster meat to cut the muscle that
attaches it to the bottom shell.
96
NUTRITION
Recipe
Calories Fat Cal

(kcal)
(kcal)
Total
Fat (g)
Sat Fat Poly Fat Mono

(g)
(g)
Fat (g)
Chol
(mg)
Sodium
(mg)
Carb
(g)
Fiber
(g)
Sugar
(g)
Protein
(g)
MAKE IT TONIGHT, P. 19
French Onion Roast Chicken
540
260
29
12
190
1650
60
Slow-Cooker Southern-Style Short Ribs w/Grits
680
270
30
13
14
115
1230
52
24
39
Egg Noodles with Creamy Mustard-Tarragon Sauce
320
100
11
3.5
75
520
41
13
Endive and Radicchio Salad w/Hazelnuts and Gorgonzola
210
130
14
3.5
10
330
17
Quick Collards with Bacon and Onions
100
45
1.5
0.5
10
330
Tofu Saag
290
190
22
10
400
11
16
Fried Egg on Toast w/Kale and Pickled Peppers
280
160
18
2.5
10
190
620
18
11
Winter Salad w/Curried Shrimp, Apples, and Cashews
370
180
21
2.5
17
170
770
22
11
27
15
BROCCOLI RABE, P. 28
Broccoli Rabe and Potato Pizza
330
140
15
0.5
4.5
25
680
34
Sauted Broccoli Rabe w/Leeks
130
90
10
10
180
Broccoli Rabe and Ricotta Ravioli
390
230
26
2.5
75
630
41
14
390
150
16
10
0.5
45
160
56
39
GOOD SPIRITS, P. 34
Scotch Blondies
MOVEABLE FEAST, P. 37
70
50
3.5
1.5
20
200
Lamb and Oyster Stew
Angels on Horseback
340
150
16
10
45
690
21
18
Little Gem Salad with Prosciutto
160
140
15
2.5
1.5
11
10
510
4
36
BACKWARD BRAISING, P. 44
Chile-Rubbed Braised Beef
360
140
16
115
1380
17
Braised Pork Shoulder w/Fennel, Garlic, and Herbs
320
110
13
90
660
27
Spiced Apple-Braised Pork Shoulder
460
170
19
140
1240
32
27
40
Porcini-Rubbed Braised Beef
380
130
15
0.5
115
980
11
35
8
ORANGES, P. 52
Orange, Pear, and Date Salad w/Orange Vinaigrette
390
210
24
12
25
160
41
30
Orange, Onion, and Olive Foccacia
240
50
440
42
Breaded Cutlets w/Orange Salsa
450
200
23
10
110
540
33
29
Orange and Brown-Sugar-Glazed Cake w/Whipped Cream
460
220
25
15
1.5
110
280
56
33
5
53
LENTILS, P. 64
North African Spiced Salmon over French Lentils
510
150
16
3.5
100
290
40
13
10
Beluga Lentils with Ruby Chard
180
35
3.5
0.5
2.5
340
25
10
Spanish Pardina Lentil and Chorizo Stew
470
140
16
1.5
30
800
60
13
24
Curried Lentil-Scallion Pancakes
310
130
15
2.5
3.5
40
810
34
10
5
CHEESE RIND BROTH, P. 72

Cheese Rind Broth (per 1cup)
40
15
1.5
0.5
70
Butternut Squash Risotto
310
90
10
4.5
15
560
41
Braised Chicken Legs w/Prosciutto, Sweet Potatoes, Olives
530
260
29
13
145
930
17
45
Pasta w/Pork and Chestnut Rag
510
180
20
2.5
60
530
51
26
Parsnip and Parmesan Soup w/Pumpkin Seed Pesto
520
370
41
27
410
27
12
ROASTED VEGETABLES, P. 80
Roasted Green Beans
90
60
150
Roasted Green Bean Panzanella Salad
470
250
28
18
15
830
41
13
Garlicky Roasted Artichoke Hearts
180
130
14
1.5
10
220
11
Pasta w/Roasted Artichokes, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Olives
710
320
36
22
620
79
10
17
Thai-Style Roasted Cabbage
160
60
0.5
590
22
10
Spicy Chicken Larb w/Thai-Style Roasted Cabbage
510
280
31
15
100
1740
34
10
18
29
Sweet and Hot Roasted Jcama
160
90
10
1.5
340
17
Vegetable and Quinoa Soup w/Roasted Jcama
460
200
22
13
1080
56
13
11
500
250
28
1.5
45
460
53
25
TEST KITCHEN, P. 89
Lingonberry Cream Cheese Pastries
The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian
at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a
choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre-
dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without

specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of
ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion
is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper arent specified, the
analysis is based on 4 tsp. salt and 1/8 tsp. pepper per serving for
entres, and 1/8 tsp. salt and 1/16 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.
F i N E C O O K i N G .C O M
97
RECIPE INDEX
Cover
Short Ribs with Pimiento Grits .......20
Starters & Salads

Curried Lentil-Scallion Pancakes..70
Endive and Radicchio Salad with
Hazelnuts and Gorgonzola ............. 21
Little Gem Salad with Prosciutto ..42
Orange, Onion, and Olive
Foccacia ................................................56
Orange, Pear, and Date Salad with
Orange-Rosemary Vinaigrette ......54
Roasted Green Bean Panzanella ..82
Winter Salad with Curried Shrimp,
Apples, and Cashews ........................26
Soups & Stews

Cheaters Chili .....................................63
Vegetable and Quinoa Soup with
Sweet and Hot Roasted Jcama ... 86
Lamb and Oyster Stew.................... 40
Parsnip and Parmesan Soup
with Pumpkin Seed Pesto................79
Spanish Pardina Lentil and
Chorizo Stew....................................... 69
Seafood
Angels on Horseback ........................39
Lamb and Oyster Stew.................... 40
North African Spiced Salmon
over French Lentils ........................... 66
Winter Salad with Curried Shrimp,
Apples, and Cashews ........................26
Poultry
Braised Chicken Legs with
Prosciutto, Sweet Potatoes,
and Olives ............................................. 77
Breaded Cutlets with Orange
Salsa ........................................................59
French Onion Roast Chicken .........20
98
Spicy Chicken Larb with

Thai-Style Roasted Cabbage .........85
Endive and Radicchio Salad

with Hazelnuts and Gorgonzola .... 21
Beef, Pork & Lamb
Garlicky Roasted Artichoke

Hearts ....................................................83
Braised Pork Shoulder with

Fennel, Garlic, and Herbs ............... 49
Quick Collards with Bacon and

Onions .................................................... 21
Breaded Cutlets with Orange

Salsa ........................................................59
Roasted Green Beans ......................82
Chile-Rubbed Braised Beef ............47
Sauted Broccoli Rabe with

Leeks ......................................................29
Porcini-Rubbed Braised Beef ........ 51

Short Ribs with Pimiento Grits .......20
Spanish Pardina Lentil and
Chorizo Stew....................................... 69
Spiced Apple-Braised Pork
Shoulder ................................................50
Pasta
Broccoli Rabe and Ricotta
Ravioli .....................................................29
Pasta with Garlicky Roasted
Artichoke Hearts, Sun-Dried
Tomatoes, and Olives .......................83
Pasta with Pork and Chestnut
Rag ........................................................78
Sweet and Hot Roasted Jcama ... 86

Thai-Style Roasted Cabbage .........85
Desserts
Orange and Brown-Sugar-Glazed
Cake with Orange-Flecked
Whipped Cream ................................ 60
Lingonberry Cream Cheese
Pastries ..................................................93
Scotch Blondies .................................34
Extras
Cheese Rind Broth .............................74
Homemade Tortilla Chips ...............89
Meatless Mains
Broccoli Rabe and Potato Pizza ....28
Broccoli Rabe and Ricotta
Ravioli .....................................................29
Butternut Squash Risotto ...............75
Fried Egg on Toast with Kale and
Pickled Peppers ..................................24
VEGETARIAN: May contain

eggs and dairy ingredients
MAKE AHEAD: Can be
completely prepared
ahead (may need handsoff cooking, baking, or
reheating to serve)
QUICK: Under 30minutes
Pasta with Garlicky Roasted

Artichoke Hearts, Sun-Dried
Tomatoes, and Olives .......................83
Roasted Green Bean Panzanella ..82
Tofu Saag ...............................................22
Side Dishes
What to drink
Beluga Lentils with Ruby Chard.....67
with whats in this issue
Egg Noodles with Creamy

Mustard-Tarragon Sauce ................. 21
Select recipes in this issue

include pairings by our drinks editor,
Jill Silverman Hough.
Theres living. And theres loving life. Were here to help

with the second one. Our intriguing blends of herbs and
botanicals support energy, stamina, focus, and overall
,2015-2016 East West Tea Company, LLC
well-being. Cup after cup, day after day, life is good.
K n ow t hat t h e di s h you hav e i n m i n d wi l l b e

t h e di s h you b ri ng to t h e tab l e .
Precise, guesswork-free control. Picture extraordinary power for ultrafast boiling.

Oh-so-subtle heat for gentle poaching. And the precision to change in an instant
to any setting in between. When you dont have to second-guess your equipment,
you can stop hoping for a delicious result and start expecting it. wolfappliance.com
Wolf Induction
Cooktop

F C Feb - Mar 2017-P2P

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

F C Feb - Mar 2017-P2P

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

secrets to making the

BEST Nachos, p.62

2017 Palm Bay International, Boca Raton FL

Red Blend 2013

Red Blend 2014

Pinot Noir 2015

Wine & Spirits

91 points James Suckling

Broccoli rabe ravioli

64 For the Love of Lentils

72 From Rinds to Riches

80 Vegetables You Should

30 The Reading List

32 Dried Herbs and Spices

34 A Blend with Benefits

37 Take Me to the River

An oyster farm on the Rappahannock

Tips, techniques, equipment,

FINE COOKING FEB/MAR 2017

Cover photograph by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

2016 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc.

EXPLORE OUR RECIPES

From Our Kitchen to Yours

At the tasting table: Diana Andrews, Teresa Fernandes, Kathy Kingsley,

FINE COOKING FEB/MAR 2017

drews, food editor/

Joan Velush, test kitchen assiant

Ronne Day, senior

Photographs by Scott Phillips

To contact us: Fine Cooking

La Baleine Fine Sea Salt. A ne

The three things always in my fridge are

My culinary heroes are Yotam Ottolenghi

My favorite part of recipe development

is... taking the first bite of a new recipe. Its

exciting to know if Ive nailed a dish or if its

Do you want to appear in Fine Cooking?

FINE COOKING FEB/MAR 2017

My go-to snow-day comfort food is...

chicken soupor any kind of soup, for

Lynne Curry (Backward Braising, p. 44) is a

The food trend that needs to end is

My favorite part of food photography is...

The three things always in my fridge are...

Oak Media Group

Distinctively styled. Meticulously crafted. Amazingly

For a free catalog visit www.kuhnrikon.com or call

Single Copy Sales

To contact customer service:

Advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or

The Taunton guarantee: If at any time youre not

Copyright 2016 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No

SVP, Fine Cooking

Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online

Learn more at shuncutlery.com

Endive and Radicchio

Pasta with Garlicky Roasted Artichoke

Porcini-Rubbed Braised Beef

Dinner with Friends

North African Spiced Salmon

Orange and Brown-Sugar-Glazed Cake

Roasted Red Grapes with

To drink: Viognier or white