Mathew Trim Restaurant Catering April 2011

Restaurant
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April 2011 $6.95 GST incl.
The
shock
of the
new
Matthew Trim
has turned The Don't be swayed
Manse, an Adelaide by trendsbut do
institution, into trust the weather
one of the state's Wisdom from
best restaurants Lauren Murdoch
PRINT POST APPROVED PP: 255003/07314 ISSN 1442-9942
Chards of class: the reinvention of Aussie chardonnay, page 40 How to go into

business with your family (and not go mad), page 19 Are machines better than
apprentices? Design for tiny kitchens The business benefits of healthy menus
Official
Journal of
Restaurant
& Catering
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Contents
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Upfront
24
6 From the Association:
John Hart on the rewards of the
Awards, and Brien Trippas on what
Cover story
The power of
the Association is doing (and is
planning) for Tasmania
the passion
History meets invention
8 News and events in a South Australian
The IR battle is biting, Lifetime restaurant that looks locally
Achievers are honoured; and more... in delivering award-winning
dining style
Wisdom
18 All in the family
Successful families working
alongside each other share their
insightsand warnings
20 Fringe dwellers
How do you attract customers if
youre out of town?
22 What Ive learnt
18 22
Lauren Murdoch of Felix on trusting
yourself, trusting your staff and
trusting the weather
27 Its only natural

People who have made their mark
thanks to their healthy attitudes
Stuff
33 New products
The latest and greatest stuff
29 A good sign
20 31
Can other brands really benefit
your business?
31 Kitchen sync
With commercial kitchens, its not
about size, but what you do with it
34 Rise of the machines

cover photography: david mariuz
Has technology advanced to the

point that we no longer need chefs?
36 Chards of class
The welcome re-invention of
Australian chardonnay
38 Star Anise
How interior design anchors quality
in this WA restaurant
34 36
RESTAURANT & CATERING 3
from the association
Savour success
By the volume of mail we can tell its awards season again,
and were working to make awards more rewarding
W
ell, its that time of year again when our fax machines, emails
and post boxes are jam-packed with entries for the Awards for
Excellence! It is great to see so many restaurants, cafes and
caterers keen to show what a good job they are doing.
The Awards really are the centrepiece of our promotion of the industry. With
the plate ratings and the awards judging, the industry has set the benchmark for
the promotion of high-quality businesses to Australias restaurant consumers.
Restaurant & Catering has a consumer strategy now in place to promote the
awards and ratings to the community at large.
We now have a strong database of consumers that we will communicate with
each month, to get them to eat out more often, and spend more when they do!
This is an important role for R&C to play. Generating additional demand for the
industry is part of making restaurants, cafes and caterers more viable.
There is also a real push to have the Savour Australia Plate Ratings part of the
Australian Tourism Quality Program, TQUAL. This program was recently launched
by the Minister for Tourism, the Hon. Martin Ferguson AM. We are now working
to include the Savour Scheme under this banner. Good luck to all the entrants in
the Awardsjudges will be visiting your business some time soon!
John Hart
CEO, Restaurant & Catering
Restaurant & Catering Restaurant & Catering magazine is

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6 RESTAURANT & CATERING

Southern lights
Tasmanias restaurants are booming, and your Association
is looking for more ways to help members down there
A
nother trip to another part of the nationthis time, Im off to
Hobart to measure how the Association and the industry are fairing
on the apple isle. By all accounts, Tasmania has started 2011 in
as strong a position as other states. They are 11.9 per cent up in
turnover terms. In contrast, on average, national total January and February
2011 revenues were only 4.5 per cent up on the same period in 2010. From a
tourism perspective, visitation to Tasmania last year (to December 2010) was
904,000 visitors, down from 912,100 for the previous year. Given the strong
revenue result for restaurants, this suggests that, like the rest of the nation, the
majority of demand is local consumers eating out more.
There is a need to provide greater focus on members in Tasmania.
Membership numbers have fallen below where they should be for a State that is
performing relatively well. The Association will be committing more resources
into promoting into Tasmania in coming months. We will continue to work with
the THA and will promote programs to restaurateurs and caterers in Tasmania.
The Associations service offering is continuing to grow and, as a result,
membership is more compelling than ever. We must ensure that every
restaurateur and caterer has access to improve their business.
Brien Trippas
President, Restaurant & Catering
Diamond Associate Member:

HOSTPLUS
Platinum Associate Members:

American Express International Fosters Group Westpac Banking Corporation
Gold Associate Members:

Diners Club International Fine Wine Partners Goodman Fielder Food Services Lion Nathan Meat & Livestock Australia
Foundation Associate Members, and Associate Members:

ALSCO AON APRA Bartercard Crown Commercial H&L Australia Luigi Bormioli

News
&events
Restaurants crippled
by wage explosion
New benchmarking data has shown
restaurants around Australia are being
crippled by IR legislation
R
estaurant & Catering has released industry
benchmarking data that shows restaurants and
caterers spend 44 cents of every dollar earned
on wages and salaries. In a survey of members
designed to establish industry norms, the
Association has found that staffing costs are the greatest
barrier to business development. Costs of wages (including
on costs) have grown from 35.7 per cent to 44 per cent of
turnover in the past five years. New data shows staff costs are up
Restaurant & Catering CEO, John Hart said, These in-
creases in wage costs are not sustainable when a very large been significant increases in wage levels in the industry.
number of businesses are making very slim margins. Restau- Other data contained in the report includes: 85 per cent of
rant, caf and catering businesses have lost any flexibility in businesses are licensed (compared to 59 per cent in 2005);
their employment practices and now have very few options around half of restaurant, cafes and catering businesses are
but to cut hours or reduce staff numbers to stay afloat. companies (with 18 per cent operating as trusts and 23.5 per
According to Hart, the number of restaurants nationally cent as sole traders); only six per cent of businesses are fran-
fell one per cent last year, from 36,900 to 36,531. In 2010, chised; and 25 per cent of respondents turned over between
there was an exit rate from the industry of 19 per cent, while $5 and $10 millioncontinuing the trend toward consolida-
new operators coming in to the industry only accounted for tion in the industry.
18 per cent. The industry is calling on policy makers to reduce non-
The Association contends that the increase is a result of wage labour costs (rather than increasing the through-in-
both wage pressure, brought about by skills shortages, and creases in the superannuation guarantee levy) in an attempt
Federal industrial relations reforms, the result of which have to keep the industry sustainable.
Lifetime achievers celebrated

R&C has recognised and celebrated six individuals at its annual
Lifetime Achievers presentation dinner on March 1 2010. The
eighth annual awards night, since the program was launched in
2003, was held at Parliament House in Canberra. The recipients
of the awards were: Alfredo Bovier, OAM, of Alfredos Sydney; Andy
Georges of Il Centro Restaurant in Brisbane; Pomi & Amrik Sandhu
of the Tandoori Oven Restaurant Adelaide; Jacques Reymond of
Jacques ReymondCuisine du Temps, Melbourne; and Lieta
Acquarola of Romanos Restaurant Nightclub, Perth. This years
Young Achievers are Carolynne & Hadleigh Troy of Restaurant
Amus in Perth. All six Lifetime Achiever winners had been hon-
oured at their state Awards for Excellence event in 2010. Senator
Nick Sherry MP congratulated the award recipients when he ad-
dressed the audience and said that: one of the defining features
of modern Australia is our world-leading, innovative restaurants, Jacques Reymond,
one of R&Cs Lifetime
cafes and catering businesses.
Achievers for 2010.

News
&events
Diners dig deep
N
early two thirds of Australians are willing to
dig a little deeper to offset the flood-driven
hikes in the cost of fresh produce used in
restaurants, according to new research from
American Express.
The American Express Dining Insights Report, conducted
by Galaxy Research, reveals that Australians are prepared to
pay an extra 3.3 per cent on the price of a restaurant meal in
the wake of flooding in Queensland and Victoria.
The national survey found that in the aftermath of the
flooding the majority of diners are prepared to pay more
for meals, with 55 per cent prepared to pay a two per cent
Heres to the BCEC, which will expand this year.
increase, and 11 per cent willing to stomach a greater than
five per cent rise in prices. It is heartening to see that most
Australians arent prepared to let the increased cost of fresh
produce become yet another hurdle to dining out, said BCEC expands
Geoff Begg, vice president merchant services Australia at Having established its position among the top three
American Express. convention centres in the world and as the catalyst
The floods have led many of Australias largest producers for Brisbanes growing share of the lucrative business
of fresh fruit and vegetables to cease production and have events market, the Brisbane Convention & Exhibition
resulted in increased prices across the board. Centre is about to embark on an exciting new era
Restaurateurs must keep a balance between keeping with the launch later this year of the much awaited
meals affordable and dealing with seemingly unrelenting boutique expansion of its convention facilities, BCEC
cost increases. This problem has been further exacerbated as on Grey Street.
fruit and vegetable wholesalers have been forced to increase The 24,000 square-metre, five-level expansion
prices, said R&C CEO, John Hart. The input cost of fresh will give the centre an additional 52 per cent more
produce is predicted to rise between five and 15 per cent. convention space. It has been designed specifically
This has a profound effect on restaurants that are already hav- to meet the market demand for smaller and medium
ing their margins squeezed. It is reassuring to see that in the sized meetings and will confirm BCEC as Australias
face of all this destruction, Australians are prepared to say fair most flexible meetings and events venue.
is fair and put their money where their mouth is.
Appetite for success

Applications have opened for the Electrolux Appetite for Excellence
2011 national awards program for young hospitality professionals.
The Awards have garnered firm support from Australias culinary
heavyweights with a highly acclaimed panel of judges, supporters
and mentors including Guy Grossi, Chris Taylor, Peter Gilmore, Mark
Best, Christine Manfield, Philip Johnson and Luke Mangan.
Every year the judges work together to develop new program
features, increasing the support and encouragement for young
professionals working in the hospitality industry. The program does
have a competition focus but its more than that. Its about giving
these young people the opportunities to expand their knowledge,
boost their confidence and give them recognition. This will hopefully
help them in their careers as well as grow Australias hospitality
industry from strength to strength, said Luke Mangan.
Application forms and further details are available online at
Last years Appetite for
www.appetiteforexcellence.com. Excellence winners.

whats on
AprilMay 2011
Apr 15 16
Rockpool Bar & Grill took the gong Foragea 3.5km walk through
17
Jazz lovers flock to the town
18
Rick Stein brings his passion for
in 2010. Tonight the Australian vineyards of the Orange district of Rhynie in SAs Clare Valley to food and travelalong with a
Interior Design Awards announces with six food and wine stations appreciate saxophones while few guest chefsto the stage of
the 2011 winner. Visit www. on the wayis a new event for sipping semillon at A Taste of the Sydney Opera House for his
australianinteriordesignawards. F.O.O.D. Week in Central West NSW. Good Things festival. Visit Food Odyssey performance. For
com www.orangefoodweek.com.au www.visitvineyards.com tickets, visit www.showbiz.com.au
19
The 2011 S.Pellegrino Worlds
20
Dont keep it a secret! Nominations
22
Steam the fish and pass the hot-
23
SAs Barossa Vintage Festival
24
Easter celebrations continue
25
Mix Anzac Day with Easter
50 Best Restaurants Awards is for the delicious. Produce Awards cross bunsits Good Friday. (www.barossavintagefestival.com. with todays Strategem Bendigo Monday and a pinch of school
announced in London today close in exactly one months time au) and Brown Brothers Easter Winemakers Festival in Victoria. holidays and you get a healthy
(Monday night in the UK). Visit (May 20). Give your producer Festival in Milawa, Victoria (www. Visit www.bendigowine.org.au financial spreadsheet this quarter.
www.theworlds50best.com the accolades they deserve at brownbrothers.com.au) both
www.taste.com.au start today.
26
Join the Australian pavilion at the
27
Brent Savage of Sydneys Bentley
29
The South African Cheese Festival
30
Manu Feildel of My Kitchen Rules
Seoul Food & Hotel 2011 trade Restaurant & Bar is one of the will wow you with their daring launches the Grampians Grape
show (www.seoulfoodnhotel. masterchefs at Singapores use of cheese, so be warned! Escape with a three-course
co.kr). Contact Export Solutions World Gourmet Summit on Improve your dairy intake from feast under the marquee: www.
on (08) 9481 8699 or visit www. April 25-May 8. Visit www. April 29-May 2 in Durbanville; grampiansgrapeescape.com.au
exportsolutions.com.au worldgourmetsummit.com www.cheesefestival.co.za
May 1
Applications close for the
2
R&C SAs Sally Neville was a 2010
3
More than 200 teens pitch their
4
Applications open today for
Electrolux Appetite for Excellence finalist for Telstra Business Women tents in a farm and become the South Australian Premiers
awards, and winners will be Awards for her Chefs in the City eco-gastronomic experts at the Food Industry Awards. Awards
announced on August 8. Visit program. For the 2011 awards visit inaugural Slow Food Canadian presentation gala dinner will
www.youngchef.com.au for www.businesswomensawards. Youth Terra Madre meeting on be on November 25.Visit www.
program updates. telstra.com May 3-4 in Stratford, Ontaria. safoodawards.com.au
5
Wild abalone, black truffles and
6
Pastry chefs are in high demand
7
The heat is on at the Moree on
8
Keep all the mums happy on
9
Latin-style cuisine in the Mission
leatherwood honey can be tasted todayits International No Diet a Plate festival all weekend in Mothers Day with restaurants district and dinner at The French
at the Unique Tastes Fine Food Day. Visit www.eskimo.com northwest NSW with sizzling and cafes offering sumptuous Laundry are taste treats at
Pavilion, all part of Launcestons barbecue dishes on offer. Visit cupcakes, sparkling wine and tea Accoutrements food tour of San
Agfest. Visit www.agfest.com.au www.moreeonaplate.com.au that ranges from English breakfast Francisco on May 5-12. Visit www.
to peach sencha. accoutrement.com.au
10
Nominations close for the Food
11
Restaurant technophobes can
12
Culinary trends, latest techniques
Challenge Awards; go to www. be enlightened at the Asian and nifty gadgets are all on
foodmag.com.au/awards.aspx Hospitality Technology Education offer at the SIAL trade show in
for more details. Awards will be Conference, a highlight at Hong Toronto on May 11-13.
announced in July. Kongs HOFEX trade show on May Visit www.sialcanada.com
11-14. Visit www.hofex.com
13
Meet cooking queen Margaret
14
The legendary Lovedale Long
15
Seven chefs from the S.Pellegrino
Fulton and her daughter Suzanne Lunch in the Hunter Valley Worlds 50 Best Restaurants cook the
Gibbs at the Harvest Celebration can be treated as a two-day Best Dinner in the World at Noosa
in Beechworth, northeast Victoria, progressive dinner. Visit www. Food & Wine Festival. Visit
on May 13-15. Visit www. lovedalelonglunch.com.au www.celebrationof-
harvestcelebration.com.au australianfoodandwine.com.au

cover story
History meets invention in a South Australian restaurant that looks locally

in delivering award-winning dining style
words lucy robertson photographY: DAVID MARIUZ
n South Australia, the old often sits along- Despite the obvious chal- have the potential to serve
side the new: rich indigenous history meets lenges, the Trims spent six as intimate private areas or
a thriving modern culture; historic build- months renovating, with a a single restaurant space.
ings share space with contemporary design; view to creating an elegant, By Matthews own admis-
generations-old vineyards rub up against hip provincial-style space that sion, such a historic res-
organic breweries. reflected their modern taurant space could easily
The same can be said for one of the French cuisine. become stuffy in the wrong
States best fine dining institutions, The We loved the building hands, but from the outset,
Manse, where old-world instantly, and weve always the pair wanted to develop
charm meets a loved renovating period something modern, with a
new-world menu buildings, Matt ex- strong food focus.
to produce The fact that this plains. We have When we took over
truly timeless results. A Victorian was an existing renovated heri- the restaurant, we already
mansion built in the 1880s and restaurant with tage houses and owned a pub in North
immaculately preserved ever an already great other venues Adelaide at the time, and
since houses the restaurant reputation meant in the past and wanted to do something
that was voted the States best that we considered found they have with a bigger emphasis on
fine dining option in Restaurant it could be easily such charm and food, he says.
& Caterings 2010 Awards, and updated for a more character. The fact that this was
for owners Matthew and Olivia modern market. Indeed, push- an existing restaurant with
Trim, the combination was always Matthew Trim, The Manse, Adelaide ing back the heavy an already great reputation
a winning formula. wooden door into the meant that we considered
It certainly isnt a typical shop-front building reveals a sophis- it was something that could
site, Matthew says about the decision to ticated world of towering be easily updated for a more
take over the long-running restaurant in the building in 2005. ceilings, vintage pieces, modern market.
There were a lot of restrictions to renovating as it is a clotted cream furnishings It also meant restaurant
heritage listed building, but that was part of the charm of the and a network of five spa- staff were already part of
space too. cious dining rooms that the package.

Matthew Trim, owner
of The Manse: he
wanted to create
something very modern
in the restaurants
elegant space.

cover story
Most of the existing staff stayed after we took over, and we

briefed them on our ideas from the start so they knew they
also had to be ready for change.
While change can be a challenging hurdle to negotiate for
many staff members in a change of ownership, for the Trims
there was a greater leap of faith: it involved handing over the
reigns to key people in the business.
We told our head chef to be as creative as he could be,
Matthew says, admitting that allowing him room for his own
expression has paid off.
Head chef at the time, Tim Montgomery, went on to create
modern-French cuisine that won him a Chef of the Year award
at the Adelaide Food Awards the year after the Trims took over
ownership of the restaurant.
After he left The Manse to travel, his replacement, Ayhan
Erkoc, continued to carry the kitchen, putting his love of
French-inspired molecular gastronomy into practice with a
light touch.
W
e are very passionate about cre-
ativity and perhaps thats what
attracts talented chefs to the
Manse, Matthew explains of his
kitchens strong performance.
For the Trims, the overarching aim of not allowing their res-
taurant to become stuffy or pretentious meant allowing their
staff to shine without too much direction.
Nobody knows better than them what theyre able to do
with food, and we love seeing what comes out of the kitchen
when the sky is the limit.
If it works, then thats great, and if it doesnt, then it
changes, he says simply.
In the early days, we made sure we researched what the The outside old-world charm of The Manse is in contrast to its
benchmark was interstate and overseas for the type of res- award-winning modern French cuisine.
taurant we wanted, so we were 100 per cent
clear on where we needed to be. bring people in the door. ability is also a major focus
Its possible many restaurateurs Being in the vicinity of for the Trims.
outside of major capital cities some of the nations We change the menu
might caution against compar-
I think wine and best food and wine- extremely frequently, which
ing themselves to dining
produce are two of producing regions helps us change with what
institutions further afield in
the best attributes is an obvious is available.
this way, but Matthew says it
South Australia has boon for Adelaide What seems obvious
was an important early step
to offer so it would restaurateurs, and now, however, might have
in the process.
be crazy for us not The Manse pulls been considered an overly
These days, however,
to feature the best no punches when progressive approach a few
constant comparisons offer
produce we can find it comes to favour- years ago, and both Mat-
little benefit.
locally. ing local produce. thew and Olivia were keen
Matthew Trim, The Manse, Adelaide
We never compare ourselves I think wine and to let the food evolve after
to other restaurants in Melbourne produce are two of the best they took over the restau-
or Sydney, he says. We just try to attributes South Australia rant, rather than end up
be the best we possibly can be and give has to offer so it would be confronting diners with too
customers a great experience. crazy for us not to feature much, too soon.
He also says their location in a city that flies under the the best produce we can We werent sure our
foodie radar much of the time is part of the journey. find locally, Matt says. Adelaide customers were
Because there is such a high standard of restaurants all And, in line with whats ready for what we wanted
around Australia, Adelaide is probably slightly overlooked on arguably becoming best to do straight away, he
a national scale. That said, some of our regional areas like the practice in the sourcing of explains. So we thought
Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale do get some well-deserved produce for commercial that ramping it up over
attention, which certainly helps drive local tourism and kitchens, seasonal adapt- time was better than scaring

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cover story
everyone off at the start. For example, Matt and Olivia have Its a great boost of morale and I think it just reminds ev-
long believed that diners receive a better experience from a eryone that theyre doing a great job.
carefully constructed degustation menu, rather than the more Like many restaurateurs in the industry, the Trims are also
variable a la carte options. But, in consultation with their chef, continuing to grow, with a more casual kitchen and bar in
they decided to introduce the idea slowly, to give customers Adelaide and another period building-housed restaurant on
time to adapt. the way.
P
Now we do degustation menus on Saturday night, and its
been received really well. I think that, if we did that when art of the push, they say, is that the margins built
we opened, it would have been a lot harder to convince our into a fine dining business are smaller than other
customers that its the best way to dine. food operations.
Its here that wait staff and other key people like sommeliers Its definitely hard to make money in fine din-
and chefs come into their own in a restaurant, with the role ing, says Matt. Especially when in most cases,
of explaining a dish or menu concept to a diner usually falling theres a guy down the road offering your customers the
into their hands. world for $9.90.
For the Trims, finding the right people for this important I sometimes say that the man who sells the Mercedes
task is about choosing people who share the same goals. drives a Commodore, and the man who drives the Mercedes
I think it comes down to everyone sharing a common inter- sells the Commodore, and there are some similarities with
est in good food, or, as the case often tends to be, a common that in fine dining.
obsession, Matt grins. Its not all about the money, the tireless pair say. More
Staffing hasnt always been smooth, and weve had our fair importantly, if the money is your primary focus then your fine-
share of interesting characters over the years. dining concept usually doesnt work.
Boosting morale is also important here, and Matt says the Everyone who works at The Manse has a passion for what
recognition that comes from winning a high-profile award like they do, and thats what makes them excellent at it, says Matt.
those handed down from Restaurant & Catering recently helps My biggest piece of advice for doing fine dining well is that
to maintain staff members involvement in the business. you really have to love it.

Management
All in
the family
words: john burfitt
Zoe Ladyman of Libertine,
Melbourne: For every happy
family business story there are
many where it hasnt worked.
The restaurant game is full of families working alongside each other. Some
who have made it a success share their insightsand warnings
wise business sage once claimed ings says as much about the people and their business meth-
that you never go into business ods as it does the intrinsic demands of the work they do.
with family or friends. To do so, This industry is a tough gig and working together will either
the learned advice repeated across make you or break you, Zoe Ladyman of Melbournes Liber-
generations claims, is to risk ruin- tine says. Ladyman opened the restaurant six years ago with
ing personal relationships, and to her husband Nick Creswick, and they have also opened the Le
threaten the operating dynamics Traiteur bistro. Members of both the Ladyman and Creswick
of an enterprise. families have also worked at both establishments.
It is an issue that many industry consultants agree is a poten- The reason I think the industry is full of families working
tial minefield. Business journals are full of advice that if ventur- alongside each other is because it is an odd industry, with
ing into a business partnership, think seriously before doing so long and odd hours and demanding schedules. You have to be
with a loved one, relative or close friend. Then be sure to think like-minded and you have to be similar people who love this
about it again. environment to do this job.
The restaurant game, however, has never played by tradi- But for people who dont fit together properly or who are
tional rules. The best business advice from industry experts too differentdespite being from the same family or mar-
was hurled out the window years ago at restaurants, cafes and riedit will break them. And for every happy family business
bars across the country, as an abundance of partners, spouses, story, there are also many when it has not worked.
parents and children, as well as brothers and sisters, worked Jenny McGrath never had any hesitations about going into
alongside one another in ventures created together. business with her chef husband Paul in the Sydney eatery,
How so many family operations in the hospitality industry Bistro Ortolan. In fact the pair initially worked alongside each
achieved success in the face of such adverse traditional warn- other as colleagues before becoming personally involved.

We learnt to be work There needs to be an agreement that
colleagues before we the money in the POS is owned by the
learnt to be partners, business and is not any individual or
Jenny says. He knows family slush fund, he says. People really
how I work and I know need to be honest with each other that
how he works. I think this is a family business and not a family
thats part of the reason fun-filled game. There also needs to be
we got together in the an understanding that serious business is
first place. easy to get into and hard to get out of.
But when it came If you have done all your homework
to setting up our own on expectations and budgets, and if there
restaurant, there was are any doubts about any of it, then dont
no question about it. proceed. Its not worth it.
If there was anyone I Creating a trust at work that has its
wanted to go into busi- own set of rules away from established
ness with, it was Paul. personal relationships is a must, ac-
We both had the same cording to Vanessa Hall, consultant with
aspirations, and being Entente. People need to be clear about
able to follow that with what the rules are at home versus in the
someone who works business, Hall says. Because of the close
the same way you do relationship and inside knowledge you
and is also your partner have with each other, because of what
seemed a perfect fit. you have grown up with or what youre
In the five years since married to, you expect them to behave in
Bistro Ortolan opened, a certain way in the business.
the McGraths lifestyle Angela Vithoulkas of Vivo Caf: You must be able to There is an assumption that every-
completely trust that the other person has your best
has changed with the thing will always sort itself out, because
interests at heart.
birth of their two chil- were family. But too often it does not
dren. That was when the work out like that.
dynamics, Jenny reveals, took a dramatic shift. Knowing when to walk away cleanly is
There has been less tiptoeing around than in the pastI think another strategy that must be established
we are probably more honest and straightforward with each early on. So is how to resolve conflicts
other, she says. We both realised that to make things without ruining relationships.
happen smoothly, we both needed to know when to We both want to minimise harm
let things goto give in to the other person without If you have done to the value of the business if
necessarily giving in. Learning to compromise all your homework anything happens, if one person
when that compromise is for the common good. on expectations and wants to get out or if one person
Its not just a home relationship at stake, but also budgets, and if there gets sick, Angela Vithoulkas
a business. That has to be treated very carefully. are any doubts about says. We have an exit strategy
any of it, then dont
N
that is documented and deals
egotiating the path from home to proceed. Its not with either buying one half
work and back again with the same worth it. out or selling it up. And when it
people is a skill siblings Angela and Jonn Close, Close Encounters
comes to conflicts, we have a strict
Con Vithoulkas learned as they grew up ground rule that it is between us and
watching their parents work together in a is not open to a third party. And any per-
variety of small businesses. sonal relationships we have with others
Since 1986, Angela and Con have been in business and currently have to stay out of the business.
run Vivo Caf in Sydney. Angela says when dealing with family in business, shes While everyone appears to agree that
learned the issues of money and trust are vital to have under control from day one. many tough questions have to be con-
Money is one of the biggest reasons why things fall apart, she says. So for us sidered before opening the doors, Jenny
when it comes to money, everything we do is 50-50. You also must be able to com- McGrath says the toughest one might be
pletely trust that the other person has your best interests at heart. At the first hint the most confronting: is this relationship
of weakness in the chain, the whole houseboth at work and with the family strong enough to cope with working to-
begins collapsing around you. We have a tough respect between us and have also gether? You have to not make everything
worked with the understanding that major decisions are made together, and if one so personal, she says. You must be con-
party does not agree, then we dont do it at all. fident that if youre going into something
Being clear about money matters is an essential to keeping everything above like this, then you are not going to lose
board with any business, but particularly when family is involved, says Close En- your partner. Because while many people
counters consultant, Jonn Close. do it, it is not for everyone.

Marketing
Fringe
dwellers
words: rob johnson
Tonic in Millthorpe expanded into
the old arts centre to do functions
as well as the restaurant.
How do you attract customers to your restaurant if youre out of town?

Two regional restaurateurs reveal their strategies for success
uild it and they will come. That seems remains: Were not that far out of town, but here being five
to be the logic behind some of the kilometres out of town makes the same difference as 50 kilo-
worlds top restaurants. El Bulli in Spain metres, says Shauns partner (in business and in life), Willa.
is famously miles away from anywhere. Im reading FERRAN: The Inside Story of El Bulli and the
The Farmers Inn,Higher West Hatch, Man Who Reinvented Food by Colman Andrews at the mo-
Somerset, is so far off the beaten ment, and El Bulli is famously very isolated. Their whole ap-
track that it does not have an address, proach is build it and they will come. But people in Australia
although its website gives an OS grid dont think like that. So we realised when you do move here
reference for walkers. And the Doune you do need to be in peoples faces all the time.
Dining Room,Knoydart, opposite the Isle of Skye, cannot be After the interview with R&C magazine, in a blog post,
accessed by road, so guests are collected from nearby Mallaig Willa continued the comparison, noting that both restaurants
by boat. But all these restaurants face the same marketing are out of town, reliant on tourist dollars, and both faced
challengehow do you convince people to come out and see times of being financially unviable due to lack of trade.
you when youre off the beaten track? Shaun and Willa had faced the same problem running The
Well, being Ferran Adria probably helps. Shaun Arantz of School House restaurant at Mayfield Vineyards before moving
Racine Restaurant isnt as celebrated as Adria, but hes very to La Colline, and realised from their experience there that
good, having picked up a chef s hat and gongs from Savour while weekends were okay, mid-week business presented
Australia and Gourmet Traveller. And unlike El Bulli, Racine the real challenge. One thing we did when we came out
Restaurant is only at La Colline Winery, about five kilometres here was say. What is our point of difference?, Willa recalls.
out of Orange, in Central Western NSW. But the problem Obviously we hope its that we have the best food and

problem with people coming back. The prob-
lem is getting new people in the door. People
have to find it for themselves. Email is great for
existing customers, but new ones are a differ-
ent kettle of fish. People still dont know were
herewe do markets in town and people will
be surprised to find us. People do go to the
website, but were trying different things all
the time to get new customers.
Two of the successful strategies they used
were a baking arm of the business (Racine
Kitchen), based on their observation that there
wasnt a lot of good fresh bread available in
the area; and starting a cheaper, more simple
version of Racine Restaurant on Thursday and
Friday lunches with Racine Caf. And they have
made a point of getting involved with the local
farmers markets and food festivals.
Local festivalas help. The support I got from
Taste of Orange was good, says Tony Worland
of Tonic restaurant in Millthorpe. You become
a part of the food group, and they promote
you in publications and they ask you to con-
tribute to their functions. It all comes back to
giving a bit as well.
The Orange F.O.O.D week, which is on again
this month, celebrates the produce, wines and
Willa and Shaun Arantz of Racine: Around here, being five kilometres out of town
restaurants of the region. Having run for 20
makes the same difference as being 50 kilometres out, she says.
years, the event is now the most significant
event on the districts calendar. If the Worlands
service, but that doesnt mean that people are have found the restaurant business as tough as their colleagues on
going to know that when they havent been here, the other side of town, Tonys not admitting it. Although he does say
so its a question of what else do you bring? So we theyve had a blessed ride since building the business eight years ago.
really play on the views we have, and the lawn you The town of Millthorpe, where the restaurant is based, is half an hours
can sit out on which looks out over the vineyards. drive from Orange and Bathurst, and was close to completely dead when
We wanted people to see that dining here really the Worlands moved in. We didnt have a plan, says Tony. I think we
encompasses the whole Orange experience. werent really thinking. We just thought if you build it, it has to
So that was our main strategy. happen. Its been a process of building and maintaining a
The other thing we do is try to get The email reputation, and keeping a constant standard, I think.
a lot of press, so people dont for- newsletter helps, There were a lot of locals coming in, to start
get about us. Obviously you have but we dont have with. I got a bit of press in a few magazines, and
to balance that, and not become a problem with I had also worked with people who were talking
too familiar. But theyre our two people coming back. about it, so that created a bit of buzz. For the first
main strategies. The problem is couple of months, people would come in from
getting new people
T
Orange and Bathurst. I think people who lived in
he key medium in the door. People Millthorpe then wanted to know what all the fuss
Willa uses to keep have to find it for was about. Having said that, Worland also found
in customers faces themselves. value in a real estate investment, purchasing the old
is an email newsletter, Willa Arantz, Racine Restaurant,
Orange
theatre next door to the restaurant and fitting it out
and, to a lesser extent, as a function venue, focussing on weddings.
her blog linked to the restaurants web Weve done heaps of weddings in there, so that pro-
page. She emails the restaurants database motes the town to people, and people will come to a wedding,
regularly, with the intention of using it as a fact- and say we want to come back and check out the restaurant, he says.
sheet: I try not to overuse it, but also I try to give Willa Arantaz writes on her blog that she will continue to look for
information without asking people to do anything, new strategies to attract customers, but after our interview, she posted:
she explains. I try not to have a newsletter thats My point here is that you can do any number of things to get people
asking them to spend money all the time. So you into your restaurant and whilst it is important to do this especially
do have to be careful with how much you do that. when you are out of town, to remind people that you are there, I think
The email newsletter helps, but we dont have a you will only succeed if you can deliver a good product.

What Ive learnt
Murdoch
Lauren
words Sharon aris
The head of Merivales new bistro Felix on trusting yourself, your

suppliers, your staff, and the weather
I wanted to be a chef growing up, but first I tried responsible for managing the food costs, the labour costs.
nursing. It wasnt me. Then I went and did my first day at Ash Street felt like my restaurant. Now its Felix. They tell me
Atlas. On that day I cleaned five kilograms of mussels, roasted what their inspirations are and I put in what I want to do.
two kilograms of capsicums, and made the Chez Panisse When we opened Ash Street Justin gave me a list of things
baked ricotta cheesecake. Ive never looked backI couldnt hed like to see on the menu. He put on that a little pot of
believe how much fun it was. scrambled eggs so I added toasted brioche and salmon on
the side. So we meet somewhere in the middle.
That said, you have to love what you do, because thats
the whole job. There arent that many financial rewards. Felix is the biggest Ive done. Its inspired by French
Fortunately, I love what I do. bistros in New York and Paris. A Bistro has a large volume
and turnover, with something for everyone. Ive gone from
Ive had a lot of good work experiences. Ive always ordering five kilos of oysters to 60kg a week.
worked with nice people. I tried the high-pressure angry
place once and I didnt last long. Opening it has meant moving
from a kitchen with four staff to a
I did a year as a pastry chef at Rockpool You pick your kitchen with 40 staff. That means
and learned a lot. I worked at the Opera House brigade and treat less time cooking and more time
Concoursea fourth year apprentice calling them with respect. on people management and
service for 300 people! It was fun. I dont know Its up to them to systems management. Having
how I did it. Then at MG Garage I spent four prove themselves. a brand new kitchen team of
and a half years as second chef. That was the Respect and getting 40 is challenging until the staff
food I loved doingthe most inspiring food Id on, enjoying your get to know each other and
done. Then I was a private chef in the Hampdens, job, thats what its learn to work together, which
shopping in the morning at the farm stalls. about. thankfully has happened quickly.
I try not to be swayed by trends. Youll succeed You pick your brigade and treat them
doing what youre meant to do well. And trust the weather with respect. Its up to them to prove
if its a cold day put on a soup. themselves. Respect and getting on, enjoying
your job, thats what its about.
I love getting market reports and taking them to
suppliers. Have a good relationship with your suppliers. Some people worked with me at Lotus, so Ive had the
Developing relationships with suppliers takes time. The ones same team for years. Youre physically close so you have to
Ive got now are very good. get to know people well. Last year I was off for three weeks,
stuck in London because of the volcano, and they were doing
Justin Hemmes took me to New York to do research specials as if they were me.
for the new bistro Felix and we went to see Balthazar. Now
I know I can do a good duck confit, equal with that. Its Thankfully we have had some great reviews already
reassuring to be unafraid of trusting my judgement and and its something that is very important to me personally
instincts. The Hemmes and I have a good relationship. They and professionally. Its also very important for the team to
trust me. They dont tell me at all what to do. At Merivale know the most critical of diners think they are doing a
we run our restaurants as if we own the business. Im great job.

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You dont need a Danish Pastry Chef
to make Smoked Salmon Savouries...
..just ask Pacific West
For your nearest Stockist call

Pacic West (02) 9630 0188
www.salmonsoluons.com.au
markeng@pacicwest.com.au
Special report
Its only
natural
words Nicole Azzopardi
There was a time when healthy
food didnt excite many patrons,
but things have really grown.
From gluten-free and vegan to low fat and organic, the healthy food
movement is alive and kicking
here was a time not too long ago when For Suzie Parker of Sensations en Ardross in Western Aus-
you could almost build a house with tralia, it was a customer who stopped coming to her caf that
gluten-free bread loaves, the very men- helped steer a course towards a very specific kind of healthy
tion of soy milk made peoples eyes menu. There was a woman who used to eat with us every day
water and vegetarians were just plain and then she disappeared. Finally, I ran into her and she said
annoying. But things have certainly I cant eat with you anymore Suzie, Ive been diagnosed as
changed. Buckwheat pancakes now a coeliac. A what? Id said. That was ten years ago. Id never
stand shoulder to shoulder with bacon heard of Coeliacs disease. I then learned everything I could
and eggs on the brekkie menu and a chickpea casserole has about gluten-free.
been known to outshine a classic chicken parma down the Fast forward a decade and youd be hard pressed to find a
pub. And with heart disease and diabetes continuing to be the restaurateur or caterer who hadnt heard the term gluten-free.
number one killers of Australian people, its little wonder why For Parker it was a research project that has paid big dividends.
more and more people are being forced to have a good hard Things have really grown, Parker explains.
look at how they eat, when they eat out. We found that people started asking for gluten-free, then
As the nation tunes in to watch celebrity chefs teach over- no dairy and then no sugar. We then built our recipes on
weight contestants how to eat healthily on The Biggest Loser customer demand. Of course, the key is the food has to taste
and retail giant Woolworths spends a reported $30 million to great. I find that people now come in groups of five and six
acquire healthy brand Macro, savvy restaurateurs and caterers because one is a Coeliac.
are also busy making sure they get their piece of the gluten- Pacific West trading manager Paul McGreevy believes about
free pie. half of Australian restaurants feature certain menu items

Special report
because of specific or unique nutritional benefits. Weve seen have 10 per cent of his content reserved for people who dont
an increase in the demand for our salmon from restaurants and eat meat.
H
cafes due to the healthy benefits that are associated with it,
he says. Weve also found that there seems to be a gap in the oward, who presented to chefs as part of an Al-
market for children and trying to appeal to them to eat salmon. liance Catering national education program says
When dining out most parents would love for their kids to try smart marketing can make all the difference
something different and healthy at the same time. when selling the healthy stuff.
QLD co-ordinator of Food Circus for Mushrooms Faye Tabet Often it can all depend on how you describe
agrees that parents are driving the trend, however, she admits it on the menu, he says.
there is still a long way to go before Australians are really indulg- For example, frittata becomes a crustless quiche. Buckwheat
ing in a healthy diet when they eat out. can be sold as buckwheat pancakes with caponata.
Healthy eating is not only driven by consumers, she says. Sydney-based macrobiotic food chain Iku Wholefoods has
Governments are getting involved too because obesity is a made and art out of marketing the healthy side of life.
problem that is starting with our youth. They are trying to teach Having started with one store in Glebe in 1985, Iku is just
parents to feed their children properly. Gradually, people are about to open its 13th store.
starting to wake up and listen. They are interested and wanting Twenty six years on and Iku is coming to fruition, Part-own-
information about healthy food. er Andrew Hayes says.
For former Today Show food correspondent Peter Howard, At Iku, 20 chefs arrive at a central kitchen at 4am so that food
knowing your customers and giving them exactly what they can be at the counters of their stores by midday. The result is a
want is the secret. product that requires no freezing, and no preservatives.
Look at your demographic and who you are trying to at- This should be on every corner and you are doing the right
tract, says the former owner of four restaurants. thing with food, he says. Delivered fresh and made daily and
Be aware of changing trade and cultural influences. Look at its true. Its not a Woothworths the fresh food people type
vegetarianism, twenty years ago we used to say oh no, not a campaign which doesnt necessarily guarantee the freshness of
bloody vegetarian. These days, any thinking caterer will now the food in stock. We are actually doing it.

Special report
A good
sign
words: jodie thompson
Does having someone elses
brand all over your business
help or hinder business?
Using other brands in your restaurant or cafe is common

practice but how does it really benefit your business?
t might be an American Express sticker by the card for your business, says restaurant marketing expert Jill
front entrance, a Mount Franklin-branded drinks Groves, of Rich Restaurants Group. If youve got a drinks fridge
fridge, or even takeaway cups emblazoned with a with an unknown brand all over it, they may not feel as safe and
gourmet coffee brand. Its a rare thing to find a res- comfortable buying their product from you.
taurant or caf without at least one other big-name Security is a big issue for customers, especially those travel-
brand featured somewhere in the physical space. ling or not familiar with the area the restaurants in.
But what impact does the presence of these other For the restaurateur, you get that credibility from the as-
brands really have on a business? Apart from any sociation with a massive, multinational brand, like American
savings in getting branded items or equipment for free or at a Express, says Geoff Begg, Vice President, Merchant Services
reduced cost, what effect do other brands have on the success Australia at American Express.
of the business? What kind of message does their use send Another reason to use other brands is the simple fact that
to customers, and what can be the effect of getting it wrong, customers are used to seeing them around, with all the various
maybe too many brands or using the wrong types? The bottom messages and signals they send. A restaurant or caf with no
line is, using other brands is an essential marketing tool for branding whatsoever can have a negative impact for some cus-
restaurants and cafes, so it pays to know how to do it well. tomers. They call it a clean store policy, where a restaurant
that doesnt put anything up, and I think it just puts a question
First impressions mark in front of the consumer, says Begg.
The real appeal of displaying other brands in a restaurant That first impression another brand creates for customers can
or caf, is the chance to send the right signal to consumers. translate directly to dollars spent.
Whether its a sense of quality, reliability, trustworthiness, Once theyre in and see the branding, they can be more
professionalism or even innovation, the sight of a particular inclined to spend, says Begg. Weve got studies that show
products logo in a restaurant environment can make a big globally you can increase your turnover up to five per cent by
impression on diners. putting up the decals and letting people know the merchant
If its a well-known and trusted brand, it can be a real draw- welcomes your card. We offer the consumer protection of

Special report
people dispute the charge, and in our experience, if youve got to suit a wider range of restaurants and cafes. Other brands
a credit card youll spend more than if youve got cash. might be more suited to certain styles of restaurant or caf, and
In a broader sense, using big-name brands is a way to boost its essential to stick to other brands that reflect the feel and
the recognition of your own business. personality of your business. For example, displaying a range
Drink and food companies are big businesses generally and of mainstream, multinational brands might be good for some
have the power and money to do their own branding aware- bigger restaurants or cafes, but fine dining restaurants or quirky
ness, says Jill Groves. Smaller businesses like restaurants and cafes might benefit more from associations with boutique or
cafes dont have the budgets for that, so you can attach yourself organic brands, for example.
to the big companies and ride off their marketing gains. With lesser-known brands it can help to follow up with more
Theres the obvious benefit of reduced set-up costs and run- information in any menus or other promotional material.
ning costs, if branded equipment or items are supplied cheap or You might have a coffee brands logo out the front, but dont
free by other companies. Branded items range from the small, assume the consumer knows all about that, Jill Groves says.
like stickers, napkins and coasters, to larger furniture items, like You need to tell a story about that coffee, that its been roasted
umbrellas, or even structures like awnings or lightboxes. Its by a master roaster in Zimbabwe or whatever, and that its su-
worth contacting companies to ask what items they have avail- perb and better than whats being served down the road.
able, rather than waiting for them to visit or send things in. Its also important to use other brands where theyll have the
Its also worth thinking of it all in terms of a business relation- biggest impact. That can range depending on the product and
ship with suppliers, that can benefit both sides. I recommend the size and location of the restaurant/caf.
restaurants go to the best suppliers and use their branding, The first thing is having something on the exterior of the
then they can say things like, We only use the best quality business, says Geoff Begg. If somebodys walking past, it can
ingredients, that sort of thing, Jill Groves says. Sadly, often bring them in, and then, to have branding in the interior, next
restaurant and caf owners fall in love with their own brand and to where you pay the bill, when youre doing the transaction.
it hinders them from making money. It can also help to think beyond the businesss physical space.
The first step is choosing the right product for your business. Use the brand online, on their website, as thats where a lot
Some brands, like credit cards, are more generic and likely of people do their research, says Geoff Begg.
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The New Spyral Professional Kitchen Collection l Your Complete Kitchen Solution
bill.sinclair@spyral.com.au l 07 3632 1800 or 1300 779 725
www.spyral.com.au l sales@spyral.com.au
www.spyral.com.au Phone 1300 779 725 or 07 3632 1800 l Fax 07 3632 1888
Units 5 & 6, 56 Eagleview Place, PO Box 1160, Eagle Farm Qld 4009
SPY04 Restaurant & Catering Ad April 2011.indd 1 7/3/11 5:01:07 PM

Special report
Kitchen
sync This is where the design of a
commercial kitchen starts: with the
food youre planning to serve.
words by Louis white
When it comes to commercial Love has been designing kitchens for years and always
models his kitchens in 3D to give the prospective buyer a bet-
kitchens, its not about size, but what ter view and feel for how the kitchen will look.
you do with it Each project is very different, Love says. Each is very
personal. There are a couple of hundred points taken into
consideration with each design.
There has to be a good and logical flow to the kitchen and
eciding upon fitting out a new com- a lot of that will depend upon the type of food you are serv-
mercial kitchen is never easy. There ing. Fine dining requires a lot more preparation and time, as
are a range of mitigating factors well as staff, in comparison to mum and dad running a small
to take into consideration such as caf. The key elements are the preparation area, the cooking
space, budget, location, type of food space, the serving area, and wash and waste space. I dont
on offer and speed of service. It is think there is any type of industry standard when it comes to
quite common for most outfits to commercial kitchens.
get the order wrong, according to Love has designed kitchens for a variety of organisations
kitchen designer Chris Love. and institutions including upmarket restaurants, fish and chip
The first question people should ask when it comes to shops, sports stadiums, school tuckshops and bars.
designing or fitting a commercial kitchen is what kind of food He believes that each job has its own anomalies and you
they will be serving, Love says. have to take into consideration each will have its own restric-
There is so important for the design of the kitchen. tions. I have fed 300 people out of a domestic kitchen, he
photography: tourism NSW
Whether it is a caf, fine dining restaurant and/or a short- says. The reality is every place has their restrictions. It is not
order restaurant for example they all have different kitchen necessarily the case of the bigger the space the better the
needs in terms of space and flow through the kitchen. kitchen. It is all about workflow. I have been in the back of
They you have to take into consideration aspects such cafes where I have seen commercial kitchens smaller than my
as budgets, seating capacity, how many staff will be working bathroom yet they function perfectly well.
there amongst a range of other factors. A small, compact and efficient kitchen that is well laid out

Special report
LaSalle were the winners for the design

and construction.
We had to consult each business
unit involved in making products as we
have more than 50 brands and ascertain
the best work flow, Mansfield says.
We had the kitchen built and then
the ovens placed followed by the cool
room and freezers.
The research and development team
spend a lot of time in the kitchen and
it is important that the space and flow
accommodated their needs.
Moffat corporate executive chef Scott
Graham is well established in the food
industry. After working in a variety of
kitchens around Australia, Graham took
up the opportunity to work with the
Moffat Group who design, develop,
manufacture and market a compre-
hensive range of commercial food and
Scott Graham from Moffat believes that when it comes to commercial kitchens, most
bakery equipment.
companies think backwards. You must start with what you want to achieve.
It was something that came about
by chance and nine years later I am still
here, Graham says.
will be better than a big kitchen. You can do a lot with an oven and Graham, who is an experienced chef,
nothing else but of course that is not the ideal scenario. says most companies think back-
When I undertake a job to design a kitchen I never have wards when it comes to design-
a specific space in mind when I go to see what is on offer. A small, compact ing a commercial kitchen.
I think you think of what kind of food will they be serv- and efficient kitchen The first thing you need
ing first to what kind of clientele and then you start to that is well laid out to consider when design-
think about designs from there depending upon the will be better than a ing and constructing
space on offer. big kitchen. You can a commercial kitchen
I
do a lot with an oven is what you want to
also emphasise to people to be flex- and nothing else but achieve, Graham says.
ible with their layout. They might find that is not the ideal Most people just talk
that they need to expand the kitchen so scenario. about space but you need to
if you can allow for that in your design it Chris Love, designer understand what kind of custom-
will benefit you in the long run. ers you want and how quickly
Goodman Fielder is Australasias leading listed food company. they want to be served.
Names such as Meadow Lea, Praise, White Wing and Pampas are very You also need equipment that is ver-
common around the country. satile. Certain equipment can have mul-
Goodman Fielder is also the largest supplier of edible fats and oils to Australian tiple functions and most people dont
and New Zealand food manufacturers and wholesalers and the largest supplier of want to look at new products, they just
flour to New Zealand commercial customers. want to use what they have before.
So, when it came to fitting a new commercial kitchen in North Ryde, New Graham says that while it is common
South Wales, it took a lot of consultation before the task was complete. for chefs to complain that kitchens are
The first issue we had was with the landlord, Annette Mansfield, Goodman too small, when a kitchen is too big it
Fielder group property manager, says. It was important to call it as a culinary can cause more problems.
centre. There are also so many factors to take into consideration like how the I have worked in a fifteen square
exhaust system goes up seven floors and how you cant have curtains or blinds in metre kitchen serving a hundred meals
the kitchen because of the potential for bugs and there can be no gaps between at dinner time, Graham says.
the floor and the walls and any windows to again ensure there will be no insects That just goes to show there is no
or animals of any sort. one space fits all. It depends upon
It was a challenge to keep the sun out but we counteracted that with white- your menu and how many people you
boards with a little bit of film in the glass. Our old kitchen had no natural light want to seat.
but this one does which is a big advantage. The basic key is to be smart with
It took almost a year to fit out the kitchen with equipment being sourced from your space. If you dont have much, use
all over the world. Goodman Fielder tendered the project out and Jones Lang it wisely.

New
products
Hungry Horse meal deals app
Hungry Horse is a brand new free iPhone App designed to
enable you to promote meal deals to potential customers in
the local area. The App uses GPS technology to recognise the
customers current location and retrieve meal deals from the
surrounding area. Only relevant deals that are available today
are displayed.
The meal deals, daily specials, promotions or vouchers
are maintained by the venues themselves via an easy to use
website (www.hungryhorse.com.au), which ensures a high
quality of information is presented to the customer. The App
is designed to quickly enable the customer to find the most
appropriate meal deal in the area Lack of space a problem?
based on several sorting and fil-
The new Houno B5 six-tray oven is designed for small
tering options. Hungry Horse is a
shops. It features a unique pass through door option en-
low-cost mobile marketing service
abling the oven to be placed in the middle of the shop and
for food & drink venues with a
separate cooking and serving. This means improved HACCP
fixed monthly cost comparable to
as well as improved safety with no need to carry hot trays.
that of an average meal deal. We
The special low energy use model does not require a canopy
dont dictate the terms of your
and all Houno ovens have a four-year parts warranty. Other
deal and we dont take a percent-
small footprint ovens include a new compact conveyor oven
age of your sales like other deal
that cooks a pizza in just over four minutes and a new speed
promotion companies. For more,
oven that will cook garlic bread from frozen, still in the foil,
call Andrew Shakespeare on
in 30 seconds. Call Bill Sinclair at Spyral on 1300 779 725 to
0437 082 080 or email andrew@
find out more. www.spyral.com.au.
hungryhorse.com.au.
HANDY SAN
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The tough, stylish and practical Rodan range of stainless stems from improper hand
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through Enware-Franke. The Rodan range represents San is a timely product for commercial, residential, healthcare
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class to todays modern washroom, said Jordi Skelton, holds a five litre pre-filled bottle of Tech Health approved
Business Development Manager of Enware-Franke. chlorhexidine-alcohol antibacterial solution that kills 99.9 per
The release of the Rodan range provides design- cent of bacteria. One five-litre bottle dispenses around 7,500
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Technology
Rise of the
machines
words rob johnson
The kitchen at Baroque
in The Rocks: they have
all the latest gadgets.
Has kitchen technology advanced to the point as a lackey, six months on one restau-
rants larder section, another eight
that we no longer need so many chefs? months on pasta, and is now making
gnocchi and sauces over at Ponys
Neutral Bay site.
The money invested in that person
e have a romantic image of the professional has created a machine thats worth
chef: someone who just needs access to more than the equipment it would take
blades, pans and fire to create wonderful to do his job, says Heads.
food beyond the abilities of the rest of us. Its But the reality is there are also down-
the myth that sustains Masterchef and foodie sides to training apprentices. Firstly,
magazines, but its a far cry from the reality of you have to find a good one. Then you
Pacojets, Thermomixes and teams dealing with have to hang on to them.
the volume demanded by a modern restaurant. I did my apprenticeship with a gas
Theres a machine for every job, says Damian grill, wok burners, target top, basic
Heads, of Sydneys Pony and Steel Bar & Grill. If you can validate the volume, you can ovens and the hot box was 70 degrees
validate the machine. But while those machines are undeniably useful, are they de-skill- or nothing, says Heads. And I look at
ing todays chefs? Do you need classical skills when an enormous amount can be done some of the machines available now
with the press of a button on a pre-programmed machine? and I think, If I had that machine I
And the reality is, those machines are more reliable, in many ways, than an appren- could do this and thisweve got
tice. If you have a recipe that states exactly what is required for the end result, and you four Rational ovens, and they can
can upload it to a combi oven via a memory stick, then thats more efficient than show- steam, you have complete control over
ing an apprentice how to do it three or four times. And once the ovens got it right, it temperature, time and so on, and you
isnt going to leave you to work in a competitors restaurant. can upload your recipes from one to
Damian Heads stands on the side of the people (as opposed to the machines) in this another one.
debate. Partly because people dont break as easily as machines: The down side is if And other restaurants have even
your Pacojet breaks, he says. So you should really buy two of them, plus the cylinders, better stuff. You should go to Baroque
and then it starts to become an expensive process. (in the Rocks, in Sydney) and have a
By contrast, he says, he has an apprentice who started two years ago, did six months look at some of the toys they have!

Weve got the standard stuff, says Peter Robertson, chef de apprentices as well. Theres no longer a recipe where you set
cuisine at Baroque. A Pacojet, a 20-rack blast chiller, Cryovac, the oven to gas mark four, which is something I find really vague
combi oven, a range of different cooktops, liquid nitrogen by current standards, he explains. With the new equipment its
doer ... Something Ive got on the wish list is a far more precise, which means I also find it easier to train the
vacuum evaporation machine. I dont re- new guysso its easier for us.
ally need one. Its just a cool machine. I also think you find other ways to engage yourself as a
Robertsons perspective on result. So your meat cookery might be one step easier,
kitchen skills and gadgets has been
You find other but then you find youll do a more complex garnish.
borne out by his experience both
ways to engage And if you can spend a minute extra on plating then
here and overseas. After cutting
yourself as a result youre going to be putting out a better dish.
his teeth at Bilsons, he travelled
your meat cookery And no matter how good the machines are, they
to the UK where he worked at
might be one step cant solve every problem. Damian Heads has an
Heston Blumenthals The Fat
easier, but then espresso bar below Steel Bar & Grill, and he says the
Duck, as well as at progressive
youll spend an extra hardest staff position he has to fill is the person mak-
institution Tom Aikens.
minute on plating. ing the sandwiches at the espresso bar.
Peter Robertson, chef de cuisine, Baroque
I do think the equipment is Theres so many details in sandwiches, he explains,
deskilling chefs slightly, he says. and it points out where people skill is so important. At the
When I was at the Fat Duck, that was moment, the chefs upstairs have to do it. Its the job I keep get-
certainly their gripe. They said it was really ting dragged back into.
hard to do what they did before, and really labour The other issue with equipment, he says, is it becomes
intensive, and they did lament the loss of these classical skills. self-perpetuating: When you do menu planning you consider
But its every bit as hard to put out perfectly cooked beef every the skills and equipment you have. I have a woodfire grill, for
timeso if a machine can help you do that, thats a good thing. example, so Im going to use it. Thats going to drive what I do
Robertson believes the ease of use inherent in such machines on the menu.
doesnt only make cooking easier, but enhances the training of Perhaps the machines are taking over after all.
Only RedCat provides the complete solution.
When you purchase RedCats SmartSuite you get

EVERYTHING you need to maintain tight financial
control of your business at both front and back of house
which will give you immediate cost savings.
With RedCat SmartSuite you get much, much more.
More functionality. More information. More efficiencies.
More productivity. More control. More savings.
Find out how RedCat can change

the way you run your business.
Call RedCat on 1300-4-REDCAT
or visit www.redcat.com.au
PB7491
7491_Redcat_RestCat_Mag_Ad_V2_D1_Numb_Updated.indd 1 21/5/08 1:34:19 PM

Drinks
Chardonnay: unlike sav blanc,
its now subtly interesting.
want the wine to get in the way.

Chablis-styled chardonnays with
higher acid, little or no malo-
lactic creaminess, and a much
lighter mouth-feel, are seen as
wines you can actually drink
whilst holding a conversation.
They dont dominate or get
you all giddy. More importantly,
their aromatics, their bouquet,
and their flavours and textures
have a more beguiling and
ethereal quality than sav blanc,
whose pungency and overtness
is always in your face. Modern
chardonnay is subtly interesting.
The best news here is down
to what it promisesculturally.
Australian wine drinkers now
seem to be heading further into
Chards
a more natural and everyday en-
joyment of wine. This is particu-
larly good news for licensees, as
of class
they will see a more regular and
less rowdy clientele, who will
drink two quality glasses of wine
after-hours most nights, rather
than twelve rum and cokes Fri-
day at 4pm. The endgame is that
Australian chardonnay in its new
guise may yet help the number
words: Ben canaider of licensed bouncers fall, being
replaced by more educated wine
Out of the ashes of sav blancs demise comes the waiters. Education defeats a
licence every time.
welcome re-invention of Australian chardonnay Your own wine lists role in
this is about understanding
the style of modern Australian
ow that sav blanc is social death; now that young women realise chardonnay, and where its
pinot gris is awful; and now that no-one even remembers what personality comes from: Chablis
the great white hope, viognier, is, or even was; everything old is and Burgundy. Imparting some
chardonnay again. Australian chardonnay is undergoing a self- of this knowledge can therefore
made renaissance. help your customers feel even
The sunshine-in-a-bottle tropical fruit chardies of yore are now more imbued with the wine.
being made in a more restrained and elegant style. Indeed, when Concentrate, therefore, on
compared to the old-fashioned styles, these new chardonnays seem cool-climate regions producing
to have no aroma, no flavour, and no texture. Yet the wine connoisseurs cant praise them chardonnay fruit with greater
or drink them quickly enough. More importantly, if you are not stocking them you will look natural aciditylike Chablis
more yesterday than a current release, viscous, 14 per cent alcohol pinot gris. achieves. Higher natural acidity
The trend has started because we now have Australian winemakers born into wine. They in chardonnay helps keep it taut
actually have taste and they actually like drinking more keenly balanced styles of wine, as op- and keen; such wine also tends
posed to growing moustaches, buying cricket memorabilia, or collecting sports cars. towards the greener and leaner
The old more-is-better approach which produced the oaky, buttery and fruit bomb fruit flavour end of the spectrum,
chardies of the 80s and 90s copped a whacking at the hands of Kiwi sauvignon blanc come allowing the winemaker to build
about the year 2000. These no-oak, crisper fruit-flavoured savvies whereand arefresh subtle richness into the wine
and distinctive, and also much cheaper than the heavily over-made winemaker chardonnays. with barrel work, like a small per-
Ten years on again and a new breed of chardonnay makers are bringing some balance back centage of malo-lactic fermenta-
to the wine barat both a flavour and price angle. tion or lees stirringlike they do
And it has a good take-up rate because the current generation of wine drinkers dont with White Burgundy.

From regarded regions, drill down to find the more highly-
pedigreed producersthat is, the ones who have the runs on UNI-CUP S FROM DE TPAK
the board and whove been making good chardonnay for a
while. This will give you your bearings, from which position you
The
can then more confidently test and taste the affordable LUC
chardonnays of the regions in question and, faster than you
can say ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) youll have an emerg-
ing brand on your wine list, at a mark-up that makes business
Soup(er) Cup.
sense. Regions and chardonnays thereof worth considering:
Tasmania
Latitude equals attitude in noble wine grapes. This is why
Tasmania is quickly emerging as Australias quality future when
it comes to chardonnay and pinot noir. They get ripe, but they
also hang on to natural acidity, thanks to the states more south-
ern latitude. Tasmanian chardonnay can have a wonderfully pris-
tine quality. Look for such labels as Stoney Rise ($20LUC), Goaty
Hill ($19), Freycinet ($25), and Josef Chromy Pepik ($13)
Mornington Peninsula
Perched above the right fetlock of Melbournes Port Phillip Bay,
this wine region has traditionally been where dentists go to die.
Theres no questioning the vineyards qualities, however: their
microclimates, terracing, soils and the bayside breezes wafting in
every evening make for chardonnay with a more robust lineage,
but some good cool-climate breeding. Kooyong Clonale ($18),
Port Phillip Estate ($28), Ten Minutes By Tractor 10X ($20)
Yarra Valley
Micro-climates and some minor altitude help here to trap acid-
ity. Other geographical considerations that are more of human-
kinds making help: a close-knit and well-informed winemaking
fraternity all of who egg one another on. The first among equals
rule applies here; and the wine shows that fantastic blend of pu-
rity and complexity. There are some real bargains, too. Oakridge
Over The Shoulder ($14), Innocent Bystander ($14), Punch
Lane ($30), Yering Station ($16).
Canberra
UNI-CUP ITS SUPER FOR SOUP!
Continental climate factors help make for a good diurnal shift
in Canberrahot, dry days but cold nights. The cold night help When it comes to packaging that can handle hot foods
the grapes lock their acidity. Mount Majura Chardonnay has, in theres one take-away cup that stands out from the
recent times, been in excellent form ($19). Also consider some crowd the UNI-CUP!
of the very affordable and restrained chardonnays from Orange,
such as Logan ($13). Perfect for hot soup, laksa and noodles the Uni-Cup
from Detpak can also be used for fruit salad or yoghurt.
Adelaide Hills Its made from high quality paper board in 3 convenient
Altitude and aspect. Cooler conditions thanks to height above sizes (8, 12 and 16oz), with one universal lid to fit them
sea-level, and vineyard aspectwhich way the vines hit the sun- all. To make things even better the Uni-Cup range is also
raysmake for wine thats neither too under-ripe or too burnt. available in our popular Ripple-WrapTM for increased hand
Shaw & Smith M3 ($26), Petaluma ($30), Paracombe ($14). comfort and insulation.
Elegance but understated power. Now thats just super! Call Detpak today and get your
hands on a Uni-Cup.
Margaret River
Here the full maritime climate effect takes place. The south-
western corner of a hot continents edge meets the enduring
horizon of the Indian and Southern Oceans. Soils and well-stud-
ied vineyard practices combine to make for grape heaven. Cab-
ernet likes it, but so too does chardonnay, with the grapefruit
acidity underscoring more nectarine and stone fruit flavours
TOLL FREE 1300 363 380 OR EMAIL
born from the grape. Stella Bella ($18), Forest Hill (from Great
PACKAGING@DETPAK.COM | WWW.DETPAK.COM
Southern, $16), Voyager Estate ($28).
(NB: All prices quoted are LUC)

details
Star Anise
Under owner/chef David Coomer, quality of the cuisine is paramount in
this WA restaurant, but the interior design anchors the room by providing
a warm, casual ambience
e took possession of this building 12

years ago when it was just an old Thai Star Anise
restaurant in an average state of fitout. 225 Onslow Road
We took out walls, opened up entrance- Sheraton Park WA
ways and got rid of all the arches. As this Tel: (08) 9381 9811
was our first restaurant, funds were very W: www.staraniserestau-
limited. We finished our first refurbish- rant.com.au
ment by splashing a bit of paint around,
tidying up and buying some new chairs.
Since that time, we have never really room right in the middle,
had a major renovation. The look of our interior has simply grown over time; weve changed which we knocked out. We re-
things as funds became available. Star Anise is contained in three rooms. Theres a larger room equipped the whole kitchen and
at the street frontage with a big window looking out over the street. Then theres a smaller replaced the flooring with tiles.
room at the side that runs off the courtyard and a room towards the back that is close to the I think people get a bit of
bar and kitchen area. The courtyard is a nice little space that can seat four people. a surprise when they first eat
Weve changed the paint colours every couple of years and at the moment, its a very neu- here. We have a good reputation
tral palette of dark brown, cream and green. We wanted to keep it clean and simple with fairly and I guess peoples expecta-
dark hues and a subdued ambience. We wanted a slightly Asian feel without being obvious. tions are reasonably high. But
Originally the rooms had timber flooring consisting of old wide boards with a few holes. really, we are just a humble little
Unfortunately we had a massive noise problem so we carpeted the front room and the side restaurant in the burbs. Weve
room while leaving the floorboards in the back room. The carpet is a also very dark green. never had a mega-fitout or an
There are downlights throughout the restaurant except for one saffron-coloured chandelier interior designer involved in any
that hangs over the bar. We purchased that online from deLighting in Bali (www.de-lighting. way. As a cook I serve the best
com). The front room has a series of three paintings called Passion, Lust and Compassion. food I possibly can but jumping
They were painted by our friend, Leisbeth Sheilds. We wanted the restaurant to be comfort- to a fine-dining category was un-
able, neutral, have a good vibeand the paintings reflect that very well. expected and a little unwanted. I
All our furniture has been with us for a while though we have updated our chairs. We had just wanted Star Anise to be a re-
them made in Bali where they pinched the design from one of the big hotels over there. They ally good local restaurant. I want
are simple, nice looking chairs that are comfortable and reasonably strong. people to eat here and think,
The kitchen is at the back near the toilets. It originally had vinyl flooring and a dry store- What a great little find.

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Restaurant

Chards of class: the reinvention of Aussie chardonnay, page 40 How to go into

Catering to all your business needs

22 What Ive learnt

27 Its only natural

34 Rise of the machines

Has technology advanced to the

Restaurant & Catering Restaurant & Catering magazine is

7,732 - CAB Audited as at September 30, 2010

6 RESTAURANT & CATERING

Diamond Associate Member:

Platinum Associate Members:

Gold Associate Members:

Foundation Associate Members, and Associate Members:

RESTAURANT & CATERING 7

Lifetime achievers celebrated

8 RESTAURANT & CATERING

Appetite for success

10 RESTAURANT & CATERING

RESTAURANT & CATERING 11

History meets invention in a South Australian restaurant that looks locally

words lucy robertson photographY: DAVID MARIUZ

12 RESTAURANT & CATERING

RESTAURANT & CATERING 13

Most of the existing staff stayed after we took over, and we

14 RESTAURANT & CATERING

SAFE-TOUCH STAY COOL

EASY CLEAN HIGH VISIBILITY

RESTAURANT & CATERING 17

18 RESTAURANT & CATERING

RESTAURANT & CATERING 19

How do you attract customers to your restaurant if youre out of town?

20 RESTAURANT & CATERING

RESTAURANT & CATERING 21

words Sharon aris

The head of Merivales new bistro Felix on trusting yourself, your

22 RESTAURANT & CATERING

W e hope youve been enjoying Restaurant &

24 RESTAURANT & CATERING

Contact phone or email address_____________________________________________________________________________________________

..just ask Pacific West

For your nearest Stockist call

RESTAURANT & CATERING 27

28 RESTAURANT & CATERING

Using other brands in your restaurant or cafe is common

RESTAURANT & CATERING 29

Introducing the NEW Professional Kitchen Collection

hot & oven/

SPY04 Restaurant & Catering Ad April 2011.indd 1 7/3/11 5:01:07 PM

words by Louis white

RESTAURANT & CATERING 31

LaSalle were the winners for the design

32 RESTAURANT & CATERING

RESTAURANT & CATERING 33

34 RESTAURANT & CATERING

Only RedCat provides the complete solution.

When you purchase RedCats SmartSuite you get

Find out how RedCat can change

7491_Redcat_RestCat_Mag_Ad_V2_D1_Numb_Updated.indd 1 21/5/08 1:34:19 PM

want the wine to get in the way.

36 RESTAURANT & CATERING

RESTAURANT & CATERING 37

e took possession of this building 12

38 RESTAURANT & CATERING