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Lonely Planet Publications

249

South Australia
The driest state on the driest continent on earth: its a maxim all but implanted into the
minds of every South Australian. The capital, Adelaide, receives an average of just 565mm
of rain a year, and it is lush compared to most of the state. Appropriately, South Australia
(SA) has some of the countrys finest semiarid walking.

The states showcase walking feature is the Flinders Ranges, with its ever-changing
colours creating one of the countrys most enticing walking destinations. To many people
the Flinders begin and end inside Wilpena Pound, a circle of peaks that serves as a tourist
bulls-eye, but venture outside the Pound and you quickly discover that it is just a small
piece of a grand line of mountains. Alligator Gorge brings the outback nearer to Adelaide
than you might otherwise have imagined, while the Heysen Highlight will convince you
that the best views of Wilpena are not from within, but from the outside.

Once you have brushed the Flinders dust from your clothes you will find something a
little greener in the Mt Lofty Ranges, at Adelaides edge. On a map, the Yurrebilla Trail is
an amble through suburbia but in reality you will find a corridor of wildlife-rich greenery
that constitutes the citys true parklands.

Continue south, across the Investigator Strait, and a totally different walking experience
beckons. On Kangaroo Islands west coast, limestone cliffs form a dramatic border to a
wilderness crowded with wildlife. Toss a few Southern right whales into the sea and you
could be standing atop the Great Australian Bights celebrated cliffs.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
HIGHLIGHTS
Enjoying dawn views across Wilpena Pound and Bunyeroo Valley as you set out from
Yanyanna Hut (p272) on the Heysen Highlight
Watching tiny Fourth Creek morph into the high waterfalls of the Morialta Conservation
Park (p257)
Splashing through Alligator Gorge (p265) as the cliffs close around you.
Wandering track-free and carefree across the high cliffs of Kangaroo Islands west coast
(p258)
Discovering Wilpena Pounds underworld as you descend into Edeowie Gorge (p268)

TELEPHONE CODE: 08 www.parks.sa.gov.au www.southaustraliantrails.com


250 S O U T H AU S T R A L I A E n v i r o n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H AU S T R A L I A I n f o r m a t i o n 251

ENVIRONMENT along the Yurrebilla Trail and all but own INFORMATION Park Fees & Regulations
South Australian lands are the most pro- Kangaroo Island. Maps Entry fees apply for most of the parks in
tected in the country more than 20% of The landscape is dominated by fire- and Decent maps of the state are not difficult this chapter. You can pay the fee on arrival,
the state is covered by conservation parks drought-tolerant plants, inlcuding acacias to find, and a useful complement to any or, if you are going to be around for a while,
of some sort. The Great Victoria, Simpson, (wattles), eucalypts and saltbush. Most ob- of them is Fullers Adelaide & SA Country there are three park passes to consider.
Strzelecki and Sturt Stony Deserts form a vious are the larger eucalypts, especially Towns, with street maps of more than 80 Only the Kangaroo Island passes (p259)
cap across the north and west of the state, the river red gums that grow along water- SA towns. will get you into Flinders Chase National
seemingly held aloft by a mountain range courses throughout the state (especially Landsmap publishes a 1:50,000 map se- Park, but the Multi Park Pass ($63/99 per
that runs from the Strzelecki Desert south along the Heysen Highlight, p269, and in ries that covers areas from the Gammon vehicle without/with camping) covers all
to Cape Jervis all the mainland walks in Edeowie Gorge, p267), the blue gums and Ranges south to Mt Gambier and west to other parks in this chapter, allowing you
this chapter are within this range. candlebarks of the Mt Lofty Ranges, and the Head of Bight all walking areas in this entry for 12 months. The two-month Holi-
As you walk you will see plenty of SAs sugar gums of Kangaroo Island. There is chapter are covered by the series. For details day Pass ($28/44 per vehicle without/with
bird emblem, the magpie, but not its mam- a distinct boundary between the eucalypt- of maps covering individual walks, see the camping), covering the same parks, is the
mal emblem, the southern hairy-nosed dominated communities of the south and Planning sections in the introductions to most useful for visiting walkers. Passes can



wombat. The state is home to four species the acacia communities further north Mt each walk. be obtained online at www.parks.sa.gov.au/
of kangaroo: red, western grey, eastern grey Remarkable National Park (p263) is a good The Map Shop (right) in Adelaide is the parks/visitors/pass/index.htm.
and the euro, while koalas are easily sighted place to see this crossover. best place to purchase maps. See the Planning sections of individual
walks for details of fire restrictions; for in-
South Australia
0
0
200 km
120 miles Books formation on Total Fire Bans, see p24.
NORTHERN TERRITORY To Alice Kulgera Birdsville QUEENSLAND
Lonely Planets Adelaide & South Australia
Guided Walks




Springs
(282km)
Mt Dare Simpson
Desert
is an excellent supplement to the informa-
Witjira Strzelecki
Great Victoria Desert
National Conservation Goyder
Park Desert tion provided in this chapter. Ecotrek (%08-8346 4155; www.ecotrek.com.au) Walks
Park Lagoon
Simpson For a thumbnail look at most of the walk- in Wilpena Pound, Kangaroo Island, the Heysen Trail and
WESTERN AUSTRALIA

A87

ck
Simpson Desert Desert Innamincka Regional
ing options around the state pick up a copy Gammon Ranges.
Tra
ABORIGINAL LAND Marla Regional Reserve
Mintabie Oodnadatta Sturt Stony
Reserve
Desert of the South Australian Trails brochure from Parktrek (%03-9486 7070; www.parktrek.com) A
Lake Eyre
National Park
the South Australian Visitor and Travel nine-day walking tour that includes snippets of each of
Innamincka
Mungeranie
Centre (below). For a scaled-down version, the Flinders Ranges walks in this chapter, plus a Kangaroo

a ck
Oodna

Lake



Roadhouse
Eyre

Tr
Unnamed daWilliam North grab 40 Great South Australian Short Walks, Island walking tour.
Str ze lec ki
Conservation Park Tallaringa tta Creek Strzelecki
Regional
Conservation
which can also be downloaded from www World Expeditions (%1300 720 000; www.worldex
i lle

Park Tr Reserve
Woomera Coober Pedy ac
ds v

Lake Eyre
k
.southaustraliantrails.com. Jim Crinions peditions.com.au) Seven-day walking trip in the Flinders

NEW SOUTH WALES


Prohibited South
Bir

Coward Springs
Stua

ABORIGINAL LAND Area


Marree 40 Adelaide and Country Walks focuses and Gammon Ranges.
s
rt H

ge

Woomera B83
on walks around and south of the capital,
an

Maralinga Prohibited Lyndhurst


wy

GATEWAY
sR

Area
Roxby Lake
Leigh while 50 Real Bushwalks around Adelaide by
de r

ilway A87 Downs Torrens Gammon Ranges


us tr alia Ra Creek National Park George Driscoll has brief descriptions and Adelaide
F lin

Trans- A Glendambo Lake Torrens


Nullarbor Regional ABORIGINAL Tarcoola National Park Lake
mud maps (basic sketch maps) of walks be- %08 / pop 1.4 million
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Woomera

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
LAND 5 Frome
Pl ai n Reserve Yellabinna Regional
Nulla rborBorder
Reserve Lake Gairdner Pimba Parachilna Flinders Ranges To Sydney tween the Barossa Valley and Cape Jervis. Until recently, Adelaide felt like a small
To Perth Village National Park 4 National Park (1150km)
(1319km) Nullarbor Head Penong
Yumbarra Gairdner
Lake Wilpena
Hawker Broken Hill
town disguised as a city. Fuelled now by
A1 Eucla National
Park
of
Bight
Ceduna
Ey Conservation
A87
Quorn Carrieton
Information Sources coffee and juice bars, and with one of Aus-
Cactus Beach re Park Port Hwy Cockburn
Augusta Orroroo
Bar
rier For general state-wide information there tralias busiest cultural calendars, SAs capi-
Hw

Pinkawillinie
Great Australian Bight are several good starting points: tal gives the impression of being a whole lot
y

F lin Conservation Mt Remarkable National Park


Streaky Bay
de
A1
rs Park Whyalla 3 Peterborough
Port
Melrose
Bed & Breakfast Booking Service South Australia more grown-up.
Hw

Venus Bay Eyre Peninsula A32


Cleve Pirie (%1800 227 677; www.bnbbookings.com) Online book-
y

Flinders Island Burra Murr


Elliston
Hw
y Cowell
Port
Clare
Auburn Morgan a
River y ing service for about 100 B&Bs around the state. INFORMATION
Waikerie
Coulta co
ln Wakefield
Spencer ss
a
Berri
Renmark Department for Environment and Heritage (DEH; Friends of the Heysen Trail (%8212 6299; www
y
Va ro
Lin

Coffin Bay e
Tumby Gulf Gawler To Sydney %08-8204 1910; www.parks.sa.gov.au) The national .heysentrail.asn.au; 10 Pitt St; h10.30am-2.30pm Tue &
Ba
ll

National Park Bay Loxton (879km)


Port Lincoln
Yorke ADELAIDE 1
Murray Bridge
VICTORIA parks authority; the website contains pages on all national Thu, 10.30am-1.30pm Wed & Fri) Stocks maps, brochures
Lincoln Peninsula
National
Cape Jervis
B12
Pinnaroo
parks in this chapter. and books on the Heysen Trail and many other paths and
Park Meningie Tailem
Kingscote
Victor Bend South Australian Visitor and Travel Centre parks throughout SA.
Du

2 To
Harbor B1
(%1300 655 276; www.southaustralia.com) Map Shop (%8231 2033; www.mapshop.net.au; 6-10
ke

Melbourne
Keith
s

Flinders Chase Kangaroo Coorong (273km)


Hw

National Park Island National Trails SA (www.southaustraliantrails.com) Government- Peel St) All the books and maps you will need for walks
y

South Australia Maps Park Bordertown A8


Fleurieu
Peninsula Deep Creek Kingston SE Naracoorte run website to promote walking (and other) trails around in SA.
1 Yurrebilla Trail p255 Conservation
2 Flinders Chase Coastal Trek p260 SOUTHERN Park Robe the state. South Australian Visitor and Travel Centre
Prin

Penola
3 Mt Remarkable Gorges p264
OCEAN Beachport To Portland Walking Federation of South Australia (%08-8361 (%1300 655 276; www.southaustralia.com; 18-20 King
ce

4 Wilpena Pound p268


s

Millicent (101km)
5 Heysen Highlight p271 Mt Gambier
Hw
y
2491; www.walkingsa.org.au) Peak body for 40 bushwalking William St) Useful for general enquiries but not flush with
Port MacDonnell clubs; the website contains a number of walk suggestions. walking information.
252 S O U T H AU S T R A L I A A d e l a i d e www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l 253

SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT If you have come to town with your Apex (%1800 777 779; www.apexrentacar.com.au; 969 the boxed text on p254). Accommodation
There is a gaggle of equipment stores walking appetite already fitted, the Cumber- Port Rd, Cheltenham) in the Adelaide Hills is a fluid thing, how-
Paddy Pallin (%8232 3155), Mountain Designs land Arms (205 Waymouth St; mains $9-16; %lunch & Avis (%8410 5727; www.avis.com.au; 136 North Tce) ever, so it is worth checking with the South
(%8232 3155), Annapurna (%8232 3155), Scout dinner Mon-Fri) is among your best bets plate- Budget (%8418 7300; www.budget.com.au; 274 North Tce) Australian Visitor and Travel Centre (p251)
Outdoor Centre (%8223 5544) and Flinders Camp- sized schnitzels are at the cheapest end of Delta Europcar (%8114 6350; www.deltaeuropcar to see if any new options spring up.
ing (%8223 1913) at the western end of Run- the menu. .com.au; 142 North Tce)
dle St. Woolworths (86 Rundle Mall) is the most If the Adelaide plain has you craving Hertz (%8231 2856; www.hertz.com.au; 233 Morphett St) PLANNING
central supermarket, while you can pick up mountains, the Himalayan theme at Everest Rent-a-Bomb (%13 15 53; www.rentabomb.com.au) When to Walk
scroggin (trail mix of snacks, often consist- (187 Rundle St; mains $13-18; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner), Offices in New South Wales, Victoria & Queensland. As it is so near to Adelaide, this is the sort
ing of fruit, nuts and chocolate) items from set among the equipment stores, will appeal. Thrifty (%8410 8977; www.thrifty.com.au; 23 Hindley St) of walk that allows you to sit back and wait
the Central Market (btwn Grote & Gouger Sts; h7am- The pastas and risottos are good. for a decent burst of weather, whatever the
5.30pm Mon-Thu, 7am-9pm Fri, 7am-3pm Sat). At Amalfi Pizzeria Ristorante (29 Frome St; pizzas Train time of year. To catch Morialtas waterfalls
$11-20, mains $15-22; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) The interstate train terminal (Railway Tce, Keswick) at their finest, you will want to come shortly
SLEEPING & EATING you can join the city suits for superior pizza is southwest of the city centre. From Ad- after a decent rain, which is most likely be-
Adelaide Caravan Park (%8363 1566; www.adelaide and pasta in the fashionable East End din- elaide, trains travel to Melbourne, Perth, tween May and October.
caravanpark.com.au/adelaide.html; 46 Richmond St, Hack- ing strip. Sydney, Alice Springs and Darwin, with all
ney; powered sites for 2 $27, cabins $80-95, units $100-130; services operated by Great Southern Railway Maps
s) is on the banks of the River Torrens, GETTING THERE & AWAY (%13 21 47; www.gsr.com.au). DEHs brochure-like 1:20,000 Yurrebilla
2km northeast of the city centre. It has Air Trail Bushwalking Map is purpose-designed
plenty of grass but not for camping on; Adelaide airport (%8308 9211; www.aal.com.au) is for this walking route. Landsmaps 1:50,000
thats what the gravel is for.
My Place (%8221 5299; www.adelaidehostel.com
7km west of the city.
Qantas (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au), Virgin
ADELAIDE REGION topographic maps Adelaide and Noarlunga
cover the area but do not show the trail.
.au; 257 Waymouth St; dm $21, d & tw with TV $55;i) Blue (%13 67 89; www.virginblue.com.au) and Jetstar
is as welcoming as the name suggests, with (%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au) operate flights YURREBILLA TRAIL NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
the luxury of inner-spring mattresses, free between Adelaide and other capital cities as Duration 3 days See Adelaide (p251).
use of bikes, a DVD library and a selection well as major centres such as Alice Springs, Distance 54km
of video games. There is a sauna in which to the Gold Coast, Cairns and Canberra. Sky- Difficulty easymoderate Belair National Park
sweat out those walking aches and a weekly link (%8332 0528; www.skylinkadelaide.com; adult/child Start Belair railway station Just 1.5km from the Belair railway station,
city tour if you are new in town. $7.50/2.50) runs shuttles between the city and Finish Ambers Gully the Belair National Park Caravan Park (%08-8278
With 245 beds, the Adelaide Central YHA the airport (via the Keswick interstate train Nearest Town Adelaide (p251) 3540; Upper Sturt Rd, Belair; unpowered/powered sites for
(%8414 3010; www.yha.com.au; 135 Waymouth St; dm/d terminal). Transport train, bus 2 $18/24, cabins $55-85) has a bush setting en-
from $23/60; ai) can sleep a population Summary Discover Adelaides truly wild side joyed by campers as well as possums, roos
larger than many SA towns. It has a large Bus as you walk between a series of national and and koalas. The kiosk is good for a starting
communal area with table-tennis and pool Adelaides central bus station (101-111 Franklin St) conservation parks overlooking the city. snack but little more.
tables and views over Light Sq, plus, an in- contains terminals and ticket offices for all
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
dustrial-sized kitchen, free DVDs in the cosy major interstate and statewide services. For GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
TV room and an attached travel agency. bus timetables see www.bussa.com.au. Grey- Completed in 2003, the Yurrebilla Trail Suburban trains depart the Adelaide rail-
The rooms at Festival City Motel (%8212 hound Australia (%13 14 99; www.greyhound.com.au) provides Adelaide with an asset possessed way station every 30 minutes or so (hourly
7877; ecfestival@chariot.net.au; cnr North Tce & Bank St; has direct services to Melbourne ($55, 10 by few other major cities: a multiday walk- on weekends) for Belair (35 to 50 minutes).
s/d/tw incl breakfast $90/110/115; a) are furnished hours), Sydney ($125, 24 hours) and Alice ing track on its very doorstep. As you wan- To return to the city from Ambers Gully,
a little like a retirement home, but they Springs ($235, 19 hours), while Firefly der through Waite Conservation Reserve walk west for 1km along Gorge Rd to the
are immaculately clean and directly across Express (%1300 730 740; www.fireflyexpress.com.au) on Day 2 of this walk you will be just 10km corner of Coulls Rd and take bus Nos 178
from the train station. Ask about standby operates services to/from Melbourne ($55, from the city, yet you are more likely to see or 578 (30 minutes).
rates. Also across from the train station is 10 hours) and Sydney ($110, 23 hours). kangaroos than people. The trail traces the
the Strathmore Hotel (%8238 2900; www.strath Premier Stateliner (%8415 5555; www.premierstate line of the Mt Lofty Ranges the bump in THE WALK
.com.au; 129 North Tce; d incl breakfast from $115; a), a liner.com.au) is the main operator for destina- the ironed shirt of Adelaide linking seven Day 1: Belair Railway Station to
one-stop travellers shop with an attached tions within SA. national and conservation parks, including Brownhill Creek Caravan Park
caf, restaurant, bar, and attractive reno- arguably Adelaides greatest natural asset, 23 hours, 9.5km
vated rooms with all the mod cons. Car Morialta Conservation Park. You can walk The trail begins on the southern side of the
Directors Studios (%8213 2500; www.savillesuites The following companies can provide you the trails entirety or use the suburban bus railway station, passing beneath the large
.com.au; 259 Gouger St; d/studio from $100/120; a) has with a hire car. Avis, Budget, Delta Europ- network to sample it in sections. There are The National Park archway to enter Belair
unfussy but spacious rooms handy to the car, Hertz, Rent-a-Bomb and Thrifty also trail markers (and distances) every 500m National Park, SAs first national park.
central bus station. Studios have kitchenette have offices at the airport. along the route. At the information board, follow the
with microwave and toaster. The associated Airport Rent-A-Car (%1800 331 033; www.airport Accommodation can be tricky if you vary path east along the fence-line, through a
Directors Hotel has slightly cheaper rooms. rentacar.com.au; Adelaide airport) your stops from those described here (see stand of sugar gums and across Sir Edwin
254 A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l 255

200 22550 400

SU

20 2
10 HOPE 30

150
200

350
10
0 0
Ave. Take the path straight ahead and de- Workanda Track. Turn left, contouring 1 : 120,000 0 30 km

0
Yurrebilla Trail
ADELAIDE HO 35

10
VALLEY

D
200

0
SO 0T
AW N

300
0
NFIELD GENERAL LZ RESERVOIR50m Contour Interval
100 M
2 miles
scend to Perroomba Creek, turning right around the hills and ignoring side trails to

RA
CEMETERY AND RSDu

30 50
d il orge Rd

2
IL
CREMATORIUM Tra

Hampstead
d RD

250
G
onto Brady Gully Track. Veer right again merge into the Wilyawa Tack. Follow this to ns

ho
ST orre FINISH

tR
Rd

on
lz R d
s rT 20 O
EA Maw 0 ER TG

Eas
st Ambers Sugarloaves
after 100m to recross Sir Edwin Ave, turn- the park boundary at Sheoak Rd (one to 1

ve
Ea H Ruin Walking Trail V
RT RI MA

Ri
rt h

30
Suga r l
rth O W

0
ing left onto a path that rounds Playford Lake, hours from the railway station).

No
No N

Da

400
Rd
ER Three oa

er
rle
ow 250
which is rimmed with gums and populated Walk west on Sheoak Rd for 50m, turning W Sugarloaves v To Cudlee

yR
Muller Rd LOL Thorndon Park Athelstone Creek (11km)

es
Black Hill

d
GENCY RD Reservoir 3

400
Trac k
Conservation
by ducks. Cross the small inlet stream to right into Pony Ridge Rd. At the roads end, 50

ay
2 Park

200
sw
a road junction. Turn left along the road, continue straight along the walking track,

Bu

Newton Rd
Black Hill (467m)
rry

0
0

st

35
then almost immediately right at the next and descend steeply to a road beside Brown- ea Campbelltown Q u a ck 45 2

0
rt h

30
No 2300 Tra
te R 50
road junction, turning left again onto a foot hill Creek. Turn left, walking along the road o nt a cu d 40

100
M 0

As
35

co
Fox Dam 0
track that winds east alongside Workanda for 1km. At the entrance to Brownhill Creek

50
Av
South

Saint Bernards Rd
e
Fo Rostrevor Mt Lofty
Creek. Ignore the first track junction and Recreation Park a narrow track leaves the road en
s ur
th
300
Ranges
Cre

rr
continue over the bridge, turning right to the right, crossing the creek and following

0
To
ek

35
Payneham

e r
Deep View (489m)
straight after. Walk about 100m to a set of its true left bank. At the charmingly named

Riv
Lookout

TRAIL

500
Moo
signboards and take the path to the right. Manure Pits once used to store fertiliser to Eagles Morialta res

Rd
Nest Lookout Conservation Rd
Park Crystal r
Turn right again after 100m (getting dizzy try to prevent pollution of the river recross

SEN
Crysta
ysta
tal
al Hill
ill

m
First Falls lD
ryC l onia

ha
Magill Third Sanct
San ctuary
tua
uaaary

H EY
o

ne
Second Falls
yet?) you are now paralleling the main the creek, following the road briefly before Falls N

20
Pa

0
DAY 3

or
Botantic

Hackn
Echo Track, which you should see just a few returning to a track that switches to and fro

to

i a l Dr
Morialta

25

450
Park 400
Magill Rd

n
Rd

Su
Barns
ce it

ey Rd
metres to your left. between banks. One hour from Sheoak Rd m

m
hT m 600

o l on
it R
oErt d Su
m

45
TNC
At the foot tracks end, turn left and im- you rejoin the road (by a picnic area), cross-

Third Cre
n S u mm it

0
H Kensington Ol d N o r t o nC Norton 0

De q u
rto Summit 55
O RT

Rd
Kensington
e tt Norwood Gardens 400 No

400
mediately right onto the Echo Track after ing a bridge and walking 500m to grassy

C res
ob

500
400

L
ev 300 White ld

0
ille 35 eth

50
0 450 O

0
Rock e
Brownhill Creek Caravan Park (%08-8271 4824; Botanic Tce Rid nt

25

c
making more turns than a populist politician k

al R
Wakefield Rd Dr

e
Quarry ge
Gardens

FULLARTON RD

Portrush Rd
Tr

d
400
a ck 50
to here, the route straightens out for a while. www.brownhillcreekcaravanpark.com.au; Brownhill Creek ADELAIDE 300 Giles 0

Fir
(52m) Ruins

Hutt St

Lob th a

550
st
At Echo Tunnel the track burrows through Rd, Mitcham; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $20/25, cabins Victoria Park Cr
250
550

d s ll
eek

R d Hi
C
Racecourse oac

e
0 0 Horsnell Gully
30 35 h
a hillside beneath the AdelaideMelbourne $80-130), strung out along the creek. Quarry Rd
Conservation l Rd Ashton

30
25
Park

o
35
0
0

Wo
25
railway. Detouring around a side gully, you

FULLARTON RD

450
0 450 400
Rd
reek e
Day 2: Brownhill Creek Caravan Park to

350 0
W
return to Workanda Creek beside its lower nd C dg

30
400
Seco Ri

ate
350 To Lobethal
en 550 (17km)
Crystal Hill Sanctuary Gre hi

rf
0
waterfall. It is an impressive bit of rock, ll 600 45

a
Gl Gu 45

ll R
en 0
though you need to be here soon after rain 67 hours, 26km 550

d
lly
Glenunga

Rd
Win Cleland 600 hill Rd

IL
sm
e S

Fullarton Rd
to see of water. Ignore the path across the From the caravan park entrance veer right hant Conservation

en
Summertown r e

on

TR
y T Park Pil box Tr G

d
rac

ENrd
a ck
top of the falls and continue southeast along up the Peter Nelson Walking Trail, taking

Rd

mEYmSit
Glen ack

k
Mount Osmond
600y Tr

550
Osmond
Echo Track to a junction with the wider the wooden steps up to McElligotts Quarry, for

fty SituHrd
Golf Course Cleland t
an

Rd
Wildlife Sh

600
e

Lomm
in Mt Bonython (610m)
Cross Rd

c adilly
35
0 300 Chinamans Park W (680m) (611m)

MtSu
Hut Ruins 550

Pic
700fty
YURREBILLAS ACCOMMODATION CURSE Waite
Bilba Tr
ack 500

Mt LSoufmt y Summit RdMt Lo


SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Conservation Mt Lofty(711m)
Reserve Mt Lofty
Carrick Mt
When the Yurrebilla Trail opened in September 2003, it seemed a masterly piece of accommoda- Eagle on Cottage

d
0
50

R
Hill the Hill 400 YHA

Bark e E
Old Belair Rd

HEY
od
0 Alternative

South
tion planning. On the first day you walked 17.5km to Eagle on the Hill Hotel for a bed with a McElligott's 350 50

wo
Torrens 40 4 Route T 00
Heysen rail
Eagle 5

SEN
Quarry

rR

rd
0

he

00
view. Day 2 was an easy 16km into any one of three B&Bs in ever-so-cute Norton Summit, leaving Park l yt
B (312m) 30 Quarry a std

mit
6
Manure Pits ern F Piccadilly

TRA
a neat 20.5km to conclude the trail on Day 3. Within two years, Eagle on the Hill Hotel and all

wy
45

IL
Brownhill Creek DAY 2 50 0

ty
Caravan Park 0
three Norton Summit B&Bs had closed. Suddenly, the user-friendly Yurrebilla Trail was as much

Old Belair Rd
l a i rRd

Lof

0
50
Brownhill Creek
an exercise in logistics as walking, committing walkers to at least one long walking day.

Mt
Recreation Park Crafers To Hahndorf
20
Be

Sheoa 40 STIRLING (8km)


0

Sir Edwin
k Rd 3
There are now few ways to vary the itinerary described here. The main alternative is to stay in START 300 Belair 50 0
500
250 l C ree550
k S
Belair ba
300 National
400 nh il500
500500 550 50 E ao
the YHA cottages below Mt Lofty Summit and outside Morialta Conservation Park. m s

Rd
o 0

400
Pinera o
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PerC 450 Br Fw

400
re ack Lower ADELAIDE 500
M ai n R d
MELBOURNE

t
o Tr

tur
Ave
Playford Mount
A couple of off-track B&Bs provide another option. If you turn right at Greenhill Rd on Day 2, it 30
0 Ech
Waterfall
RAILWAY M
Carripook

Upper S
Lake a r Lofty
kand C eek t Ba r
rk e
is about 1km into Summertown, where you will find Summertown Homestead (%08-8390 0497;

W
r o Jibilla
Wo Old r kand a

Rd
250 5 0 0
Belair National Park Government Echo Track Upper Waterfall To Mylor 450
www.summertownbnb.com.au; 4 Cummins Dr; d $240). On reaching Lobethal Rd near the end of Day 2, Caravan Park House Tunnel
BELAIR PARK GOLF COURSE
(4km)
450 450
you can also turn right and walk for 2km to the Chapel B&B (%08-8390 1792; www.thechapel.com
.au; Lobethal Rd, Ashton; d $210), in a converted chapel. The walk along Lobethal Rd, however, will be views over the city and the coast at Glenelg. which kangaroos exist in their natural habi-
neither pleasant nor particularly safe because the road is narrow and heavily trafficked. The trail continues north from beside the tat. Inside the reserve the trail swings onto a
It is also quite possible to base yourself in Adelaide and commute by bus each morning. Buses quarry, along an unsealed road. rough vehicle track and into a hollow below
run between the city and Eagle on the Hill (bus Nos 163 to 166), Summertown (bus 820) and At the entrance to Brownhill Reserve a large water tank. Turn right and head
Morialta Conservation Park (bus 102 stops within 1km of the main car park). Travel times are turn left through a gate. Below, you will see upvalley before zigzagging back west to a
around 30 to 40 minutes. There is also a connector bus into Cleland Wildlife Park (bus No 163 the mottled roof of Carrick Hill mansion. viewpoint beyond a few she-oaks (one hour
or 165, changing to bus 823 at Crafers). Cross through a stile into Waite Conserva- from the caravan park). The view incorpo-
tion Reserve, the nearest point to the city at rates almost the entire Adelaide plain.
256 A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l 257

The trail now turns its back on the city, After rounding the first bend in the road,
heading east through grey box woodland take the track to the right. Turn right again TRAILBLAZER
and olive trees. Turn right onto a faint ve- immediately after the phytophthora station For one weekend each October, the Yurrebilla Trail hosts not the usual few hikers but hundreds
hicle track, making a short climb to exit the and continue through stringybark forest. of runners and walkers competing in the Trailblazer Challenge (www.recreationsa.org). Modelled
reserve. Take the track to the left and you When you come to a track junction 500m on the successful Oxfam Trailwalker events, which began in Hong King as a training program
will soon see Mt Lofty Summits white ob- on, turn right and descend towards the vis- for Gurkha soldiers, competitors walk or run 18km, 25km, 50km or 100km. The 50km event has
elisk and its three ugly sisters: the TV tow- ible tiers of White Rock Quarry, passing a cut-off time of 20 hours, with the 100km event to be completed within 40 hours winning
ers that are one of Adelaides less attractive through some of the thickest bushland of teams complete the 100km in around 16 hours.
landmarks. Pass through a gate and, about the walk. The course begins in the Adelaide parklands and follows the River Torrens to Ambers Gully,
200m on, turn left through another gate to Cross a blackberry-choked stream and swinging onto the Yurrebilla Trail and following it for 25km into Cleland Conservation Park. It
re-enter Waite Conservation Reserve. Its a turn right, heading upvalley to Giles Ruins then strikes out through Mylor and the Kuitpo Forest.
fleeting return, as the trail soon heads back (one to 1 hours from Greenhill Rd). The
out through a gate. Follow the trail towards first building was a workers quarters, the
the farmhouse. Turn left onto the driveway second was the homestead. Here, the trail onto a spur, you begin a 250m climb to Falls) and a scene that includes the drudg-
and walk up to Mt Barker Rd, turning right begins climbing away from the creek, as- Mt Lofty Summit. About 400m below the ery of the Adelaide suburbs in one direction
and walking 30 to 45 minutes along the cending to a ridge, where it turns right. In 15 summit you pass the Mt Lofty Cottage YHA and wonderful First and Second Falls in
roads bike lane: this was once the main road minutes the trail peels away left onto a lesser (% 08-8414 3000; www.yha.com.au; cottage $50-70). the other.
into Adelaide, now its a ghost road virtually track to reach Woods Hill Rd. Turn left, then Turn left at the junction here, then up the Turn up the hill (through the phytoph-
ceded to cyclists, motorbikers and walkers. right onto a narrow sealed road after 50m. narrower track to the right to reach Mt Lofty thora station), rounding the ridge and
About 100m past the abandoned Eagle on Look for a faint foot track that heads away Summit, where there is a restaurant (mains $25- climbing to a smooth track. About 2km
the Hill Hotel, turn left through a stile into right, doubling back to again meet Woods 30; hdinner Wed-Sun), caf (mains $8-16), gift shop from Deep View Lookout, you reach a track
Cleland Conservation Park. Turn left in another Hill Rd. Here, the trail turns back on itself, and views across the Adelaide plain and junction. If you take a hard right here and
200m onto a narrower track that winds descending to Lobethal Rd. (This last section Fleurieu Peninsula. follow Moores Rd for 2.5km you come to
down through stringybark forest. Continue of trail is through private property and is Retrace your steps past the YHA cottage Morialta Walks YHA (%08-8414 3000; www.yha.com
straight on at the next junction, heading closed from December through March and to a track junction 650m (and signposted .au; cottage $50-70). Take the trail to the left,
upvalley past the ruins of Chinamans Hut and on days of Total Fire Ban. At these times, as such) from the summit. Turn right and leaving the Heysen Trail and descending
following the signs for Mt Lofty Summit. walk along Woods Hill Rd to Lobethal Rd, follow this track through a gate, crossing (steeply at times) along a spur. U-turning
Watch for some finger-like coral ferns in a where you rejoin the trail.) the sealed road and descending to meet the back past Fox Dam, the track makes an un-
rock face beside the track, then cross over Turn left and walk along the road, main trail on the Wine Shanty Track. dulating 1.5km descent to Montacute Rd.
the footbridge to reach a track junction. turning into the second road on the left Turn left and walk 1.5km along the road to
The Yurrebilla Trail follows the path (Crescent Dr) for a quieter and safer entry Day 3: Crystal Hill Sanctuary to Quarry Track (1 to 1 hours from Deep
signposted Wildlife Park for 500m to the into Norton Summit (one hour from Giles Ambers Gully View Lookout).
park entrance road (the alternative route Ruins), which is basically a pub masquer- 45 hours, 18.5km Turn right onto Quarry Track, enter-
turns right, see right). If you fancy cuddling ading as a town the Scenic Hotel (pub meals A few metres beyond the sanctuary, turn left ing Black Hill Conservation Park, and begin
a koala, turn left and follow the road into $11-17, restaurant meals $21-30; hbreakfast Sat & Sun, and cross through a series of stiles. Across to climb. One short section is the steepest
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Cleland Wildlife Park (adult/child $13/8); if you can lunch & dinner daily) is an Adelaide institution, the creek, turn left onto the old vehicle ground you will have encountered for the
survive without it, turn right, then left at the its balcony famed for its city views. track, walking along the boundary of Mo- past three days cheer yourself up by en-
water tanks. Turn immediately right again Turn right onto Colonial Dr, branching rialta Conservation Park, the most impressive joying the final view back to Adelaide. The
onto Wine Shanty Track. In 500m an eroded right onto a track that climbs above and and rugged of the Mt Lofty Ranges parks. trail ascends to a short side track leading
track comes down from the right; you have away from the road to the stone Morialta At the junction with Third Falls Track, turn away left to the viewless summit of Black
now joined the mighty Heysen Trail. Barns, once part of an estate belonging to left and then immediately right, dropping Hill (one to 1 hours from Montacute
For the next hour the Wine Shanty Track a state premier. The track swings back to steeply to the creek (30 to 45 minutes from Rd). Continue northeast on the main trail
winds through gullies below Mt Bonython, Colonial Dr, following it for 1.3km to Crys- Crystal Hill). Third Falls are 50m upstream, to a green tank, where you turn left onto
ignoring all tracks to the right. Finally, you tal Hill Sanctuary (%08-8390 1111; partnerz@bigpond tumbling over a 20m-high rock platform. Sugarloaves Track. Stay on this track as it
do turn right at Pillbox Track, climbing and .net.au; dm from $25, cabins $80), which has farm Continuing downstream, stay left at a contours above Ghost Tree Gully and up
leaving Cleland Conservation Park onto Mt cabins on one side of the road and a reno- junction to head through she-oaks and be- into a grassy saddle between the knolls of
Lofty Summit Rd. Turn left, walking beside vated stone cottage on the other. neath rock walls that offer Adelaides best the Three Sugarloaves.
the road to Greenhill Rd. Cross this busy rock climbing. Pass by (but not across) the Turn left atop the saddle, staying with
road and pick up the track again at the bus ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: MT LOFTY SUMMIT bridge over Second Falls. Continue for 300m Sugarloaves Track. In a few minutes turn
stop, walking what feels like a full circle to 1 hour, 3km to Eagles Nest Lookout, peering down onto right at Sugarloaves Walking Trail and de-
meet Ridge Rd. Mt Lofty Summit is Adelaides lookout of First Falls, which looks like a stray piece of scend into Ambers Gully. Pass a usually
Follow Ridge Rd north (left), leaving it to lookouts, and it is a worthwhile (if steep) Kimberley country. From the final lookout dry waterfall to meet Main Ridge Track,
briefly wind in behind a radar tower. About diversion from the main trail. At the Bilba point take the higher tack that heads away turning left before Ambers Ruin to re-enter
500m on, turn left into Coach Rd, following Track junction, turn right along a stream, right, winding around the escarpment to suburbia and the trails end (45 minutes to
it up to Horsnell Gully Conservation Park. following it to a small waterfall. Turning Deep View Lookout (45 minutes from Third one hour from Black Hill).
258 K A N G A R O O I S L A N D F l i n d e r s C h a s e C o a s t a l T re k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com K A N G A R O O I S L A N D F l i n d e r s C h a s e C o a s t a l T re k 259

office in Kingscote (opposite) can supply by the memories of the exhilarating previ- NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
KANGAROO ISLAND information on walks around the island, ous day. Kingscote
though queries about Flinders Chase are bet- If you have two cars and an extra day, %08 / pop 1400
Australias second-largest island (4416 sq ter directed to the Flinders Chase visitor informa- you can avoid the inland walk by continu- SAs first settlement may be Kangaroo Is-
km) has plenty to offer walkers, including tion centre (%08-8559 7235; www.environment.sa.gov ing south along the coast to the lighthouse lands main town but it is still a sleepy sea-
some of the best wildlife encounters in the .au/parks/flinderschase; Rocky River). at Cape de Couedic. On the second day, side place. It is also the closest town to this
country. The showpiece for anyone on foot walk to Snake Lagoon camping ground walk, despite being more than 100km away.
is Flinders Chase National Park, gazetted GETTING THERE & AWAY (20km), then to Cape de Couedic (16km) It is the place to pick up supplies, even if it
in 1919 and now covering around 17% of Rex (%13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au) and on the third day. is more practical to stay nearer to Flinders
the island. Here, you can walk for a few QantasLink (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) fly Chase. The useful brochure Bushwalking in
minutes to view platypuses or you can daily between Adelaide and Kangaroo Is- PLANNING Kangaroo Island Parks can be picked up at
amble for a few days in the company of land ($70, 30 minutes). QantasLink also When to Walk the DEH office (%8553 2381; 37 Dauncey St).
kangaroos, koalas and goannas. It quickly flies direct from Melbourne to Kangaroo The islands climate is milder than the main- Grassy Kingscote Nepean Bay Tourist Park
becomes apparent why Matthew Flinders Island on Saturday and Sunday ($230, two land in January and February the average (%8553 2394; www.kingscotetouristpark.com.au; First St;
named the place after a resident marsupial hours). maximum temperature is around 23.5C unpowered/powered sites for 2 $20/23, cabins without/with
(even if only because his crew killed and ate SeaLink (%13 13 01; www.sealink.com.au) oper- (compared to 28.5C in Adelaide), making bathroom from $50/85) is in Brownlow, roughly
31 of the things). ates a ferry service across the Backstairs summer walking more feasible. Rainfall is 3km from town, one street inland from a
Passage between Cape Jervis and Penne- slightly lower than in Adelaide and is con- seaweed-carpeted beach.
ENVIRONMENT shaw (45 minutes) up to eight times daily. centrated between about May and August. KI Central Accommodation (%8553 2787; 19 Mur-
Connected to the mainland at various Cars cost $65 to $80, with each passenger Couple this with biting winds and the west ray St; dm/d $20/50) looks a bit like a doss house
times, Kangaroo Islands land bridge last (including driver) an extra $40. coast can be unpleasant in winter. Numer- and is a good place to prepare for or relax
submerged around 9500 years ago, creat- ous wildflowers bloom from late July to No- from a walk.
ing an isolation that has led to much spe- GETTING AROUND vember, while March, April, October and Seaview Motel (%8553 2030; www.seaview.net
cies variation between the island and the Budget (%08-8555 3133; www.budget.com.au) and November offer the best combinations of .au; 51 Chapman Tce; guesthouse s/d $65/75, motel s/d
mainland. The island has 14 endemic bird Hertz (% 08-8553 2390; www.hertz.com.au) have comfortable temperatures and low rainfall. $125/135) has great bay views, with rooms
subspecies, one endemic mammal species cars available at the airport; the latter also that range from boarding schoolstyle to
(Kangaroo Island dunnart) and 46 endemic has cars available at the Penneshaw ferry Maps the classically furnished spa suite. There is a
plant species. The Kangaroo Island kan- terminal. Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic maps restaurant (mains $17-33; hdinner) on site.
garoo is a subspecies of the western grey Borda and Vennachar cover the area the Bella (54 Dauncey St; lunch $8-15, dinner $15-24;
kangaroo, and is smaller and more solid; walk along the cliffs isnt shown since it is hlunch & dinner) offers a rare mix of fine
tiger snakes here can be entirely black; and FLINDERS CHASE COASTAL TREK not on marked trails. The Day 2 route is dining and greasy take-out. You can dine
even a bird as common and widespread as Duration 2 days marked on the maps. on pan-fried King George whiting or carry
the New Holland honeyeater has different Distance 35km home a barbecued chook.
wing and beak sizes to mainland birds. As Difficulty moderate Permits & Regulations Ozone Hotel (Kingscote Tce; breakfast $8, mains $13-
you walk, keep particular watch for glossy Overnight walkers in Flinders Chase Na- 30; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) has a typical pub
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Start/Finish Ravine des Casoars car park
black-cockatoos, Australias rarest cocka- Nearest Town Kingscote (opposite) tional Park must obtain a trip intentions menu brightened with local produce such
too, with only an estimated 250 existing in Transport private form and discuss their plans with a ranger. as marron and garfish.
the world it is possible, though not likely, Summary Wander the isolated cliffs of Kang- Forms can be downloaded from www Foodland (Commercial St) is the best of the
that you may spot one around Ravine des aroo Islands west coast, where the dramatic .environment.sa.gov.au/parks/flinders supermarket options.
Casoars. geography is tempered by the tropical colour- chase/visit/index.htm, or picked up at the
ing of the ocean. Flinders Chase visitor information centre. Flinders Chase National Park
PLANNING Entry to the park is $7.50 per person and %08
Books walkers camping is $4 per night. There are The closest accommodation to the trail-
Kangaroo Island on Foot by former Flinders Following Kangaroo Islands westernmost also two Kangaroo Island park passes to head is at Harveys Return camping ground (sites
Chase ranger Jody Gates describes 23 walks coast, this walk heads across limestone cliffs consider: the Kangaroo Island Tour Pass (adult/ for vehicle $8), which has toilets and a water
throughout the island. Natural History of that rise up to 100m above the sea, pass- child $43/25) gives unlimited entry to Flinders tank. Cape Borda Lighthouse, 3km west,
Kangaroo Island, edited by Margaret Dav- ing isolated rocky coves to the welcoming Chase for a year, plus tours at Seal Bay, has three cottages: Flinders Light Lodge ($125),
ies, Charles Twidale and Michael Tyler, is beach at West Bay. Kelly Hill Caves, and Cape Borda and Cape Hartley Hut ($80) and Woodward Hut (per person
a good resource for delving further into the Though the walk is rated moderate, it is Willoughby lighthouses; the South Coast Ticket $16). Rocky River camping ground offers
islands natural nuts and bolts. very much an outing in two parts. Day 1, (adult/child $28/17) allows entry into the park, showers but is by the visitor information
along the cliffs, is moderatedemanding, plus tours at Seal Bay and Kelly Hill Caves. centre, around 50km from the trailhead.
Information Sources crossing ankle-twisting, fractured lime- Camping along the described route is There are a couple of private options at
Kangaroo Island Gateway visitor information stone, while Day 2 is no more than a stroll only permitted at West Bay, and bookings the parks edge. Flinders Chase Farm (%8559
centre (%08-8553 1185; www.tourkangarooisland.com along a closed vehicle track. The bush along are required. Fires are prohibited, so fuel 7223; chillers@internode.on.net; West End Hwy; dm/cabins
.au) is just outside Penneshaw. The DEH this track is pleasant, though it is shaded stoves must be used. $20/50, r $70) has a wing of motel-style rooms,
260 K A N G A R O O I S L A N D F l i n d e r s C h a s e C o a s t a l T re k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S E n v i r o n m e n t 261

two tiny cabins and an attractive hostel with is 15km away to the south. There is no set
a woolshed theme. The open-air kitchen trail, simply follow the cliffs all the way, A HOME AMONG THE GUM TREES
has a vinyl collection that ranges from across fractured limestone, keeping within It is not by accident that Flinders Chase National Park can feel like an unfenced zoo. Cape Bar-
Meatloaf to Mouskouri. Kangaroo Island Wil- about 15m of the cliff edge where the mal- ren geese and kangaroos graze the lawns at Rocky River, koalas have been called a plague and
derness Retreat (%8559 7275; www.kiwr.com; South lee scrub is thinnest. You will often find a tammar wallabies, virtually extinct on the mainland, flourish. Many of the animals were placed
Coast Rd; eco lodge r $140, d $200; mains $28-33;ai) trodden path of sorts as a guide. It is slow, here not by natures hand, but by human hands.
is set in 113 hectares, and has resident wal- undulating walking but the coastal views Isolated even from the settlements on Kangaroo Island, Flinders Chase was chosen early last
labies, rooms set around a native garden are such that you wont want to hurry any- century as a haven to preserve threatened wildlife. Between 1911 and 1957, 16 bird, six mammal
and its own 30-minute bushwalk through way. Feral goats and the small Rosenbergs and two reptile species were introduced around the islands western edge. Some, such as the
sugar gums, banksias and tea-trees. goanna are commonly seen. emu, hairy-nosed wombat, shingle-back lizard and magpie goose, failed to colonise, but others
Food options at this end of the island are After two to three hours the cliffs swing thrived, including the koala, platypus, Cape Barren goose and ringtail possum.
as rare as the glossy black-cockatoo. Chasers southwest, forming a large headland. Con-
Cafe (Flinders Chase visitor information centre; burgers $13; tinue close to the cliff edge, avoiding the
h9am-5pm) will see you through the day, thickening scrub. Within 45 minutes you Thirty minutes from the point, descend to the cusp of the desert but without the as-
but the restaurant at Kangaroo Island Wil- round the headland and begin south again, the beach. The camping ground is at the sociated deprivations this is a great place
derness Retreat is only for guests. passing through a surreal patch of eroded southern end, behind the dunes and the an- to flirt with the outback without placing
limestone you will see brittle platforms of chor from the Loch Vennachar. The camp- yourself at peril. The country may be harsh
GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK rock and stalagmites rising from the earth. ing ground has a water tank and toilet. but the walking usually isnt. Water is eas-
From Kingscote drive 75km along Playford Continue along the cliffs, rounding ily obtainable on all three walks described
Hwy to the junction with West End Hwy. a series of small coves on ever-rougher Day 2: West Bay to Ravine des Casoars here, and Wilpena Pound may contain the
Continue straight along Playford Hwy limestone to Vennachar Point. Below here, 45 hours, 16km best-marked trails you have ever walked.
(unsealed now) for another 27km. Turn the Glasgow-bound Loch Vennachar was Follow the road out of camp and east
left just beyond Harveys Return camp- wrecked in 1905, though such was the through low-growing yacca, casuarina and ENVIRONMENT
ing ground and drive 6km to the road end spread of the wreckage it wasnt located eucalyptus scrub. After 30 to 40 minutes, About 800 million years ago the earths crust
at the Ravine des Casoars car park. From until 1976. Turn east and follow the gran- turn left through a gate onto a wide 4WD thinned and formed a long trough called the
Rocky River join West End Hwy, turning ite and limestone cliffs into sandy West Bay. track (vehicles are prohibited) and into an Adelaide Geosyncline. Submerged under
west onto the unsealed section of Playford area of regeneration. This obvious track the ocean, it reached from Kangaroo Island
Hwy after 23km. Flinders Chase Coastal Trek leads north through attractive scrub. After in the south to Mt Hopeless in the north.
1 : 250,000 0 5 km two to three hours of gradual climbs and de- Over the next 300 million years it filled with
THE WALK 50m Contour Interval 0
Investigator Strait
3 miles
scents, green fields and a long ridge become sediment. Around 500 million years ago the
Day 1: Ravine des Casoars to West Bay Cape
Scott To
Cove Kingscote visible to the north. The track then turns Geosyncline was squeezed and pushed up
56 hours, 19km Borda Playfo
rd H w y
(100km)
northwest, dropping back to the Ravine des to form a long mountain chain. Mudstone,
From the southern end of the car park, past Cape Borda Harvey's Casoars, where the gums will look like forest shale and siltstone around what is now the
100

Lighthouse Return
150
the phytophthora station, fork left onto a giants after the past two days of scrub. Scan Flinders Ranges eroded away, leaving the
150

Camping
Ground s r
sandy track that winds down into the Ravine the canopy for koalas as you climb through stronger quartzite that forms todays sharp
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
(130m) oa
100

as
15

ars CRavin
des Casoars. This Ravine of the Cassowaries tall woodland to the car park. ridges.
0

ne es Caso

10es
0
150

D
10

START/
100

150

150 ne
10

was named by French explorer Nicolas Bau- More than 450 native plant species have
100

Southern
100
00

FINISH vi
Ocean Rav Ra
D

din in 1803 because it contained great num- been recorded in the Flinders Ranges Na-
FLINDERS RANGES
ine
Des
Cas Gate Ravi
bers of dwarf emus they were extinct by oar tional Park alone, though just a few will
50

(136m) s
0

the time of settlement just 33 years later. 100


dominate your thoughts. Primary among
10

150
10
0

After 20 minutes the track turns west Described by Sir Hans Heysen as natures these is the river red gum, which towers
and descends slowly through sugar gums to bones laid bare, the Flinders Ranges are a from the Flinders dry creek beds. Porcu-
0
10

the tannin-stained creek. Follow the creek continuation of the Mt Lofty Ranges, begin- pine grass, a spinifex, coats the hillsides in
50

Ravine Des
downstream, entering mallee forest just be- ning near Crystal Brook and running north the north, softening them visually even if
100

Casoars 200
Wilderness Area
fore reaching a track junction 1km from the (105m) to Mt Hopeless before petering out in the the grass is like a hedgehog to the touch.
coast. Continue straight on, walking now (208m) Strzelecki Desert. For walkers the Flinders Cypress pines are also a common sight on
along the bank of the creek, to a wooden 150 contain two major areas of interest: the all of the walks.
150

footbridge (one to 1 hours from the start). Flinders Ranges National Park (Wilpena The real mammal-of-the-day in the
Loch
Cross the bridge and walk beneath the dunes Vennachar Pound and Heysen Highlight walks) and the Flinders is the yellow-footed rock wallaby.
100
50

1905
to the small beach. In the limestone cliffs on Mt Remarkable National Park (Mt Remark- Most visible in Brachina Gorge away from
ver

West Bay
Ri

the opposite bank you will see a series of knec able Gorges walk). If you wish to spread the walking routes described here it also
eck

Vennachar
Point DAY 2
Brea
Gate
100kn

caves, but avoid the temptation to enter them your walking wings a little wider, head for inhabits the Mt Remarkable Gorges and the
ea

100
W

Br

50 (65m)
as they are important wildlife refuges. Dutchmans Stern (p273) or Mt Brown. Wilcolo Valley, which you walk through
est B

Paisley Inlet
Flinders a y To Rocky
From the beach, climb steeply onto the Protected Area
iver Much of the Flinders average less than on the final day of the Heysen Highlight.
Rd

Chase kR
River (20km)
Riv

National Park ec
southern hillside to the cliff top. West Bay kn 400mm of annual rain, which puts it on If you dont see this iconic creature, take
50

00

dy
ea
262 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S P l a n n i n g www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S M t R e m a r k a b l e G o r g e s 263

compensation from the many kangaroos unpowered/powered sites for 2 $25/27, cabins $55- you can take the Ghan from Port Augusta PLANNING
that crowd the ranges kangaroos may out- 110;as) is laid out in lines as straight as to Alice Springs (seat/sleeper/gold-class When to Walk
number trees inside Wilpena Pound. Of the the Adelaide CBD and has a camp kitchen sleeper $171/542/710, 14 hours), Darwin Early spring (September to mid-October)
reptiles, it probably wont be the snakes you and laundry. (seat/sleeper/gold-class sleeper $403/1277/ is the ideal time for this walk, with creeks
will need to worry about on the Heysen Poinsettia Motel (%8642 2411; 24 Burgoyne St; 1680, 43 hours) or Adelaide (seat/sleeper/ still flowing and wildflowers colouring the
Highlight you will be hard pressed not to s/d $55/65) is the pick of the motel litter lin- gold-class sleeper $37/113/300, four hours) hillsides. It also makes a good winter walk,
step on the shingle-back lizards. ing the highway north of town, with prices on Friday and Sunday. The Indian Pacific with the average July maximum tempera-
reduced by competition but facilities im- travels to Perth (seat/sleeper/gold-class ture at nearby Port Pirie being a comfort-
PLANNING proved by new microwaves and TVs. It is sleeper $272/844/1100, 34 hours) on Sun- able 16.4C (1.5C higher than Adelaide)
Maps & Books just a stroll across the bridge to the city day and Thursday, and to Adelaide (seat/ and monthly rainfall averaging little more
Hema Maps 1:500,000 map Flinders Ranges centre. On the highway south, Comfort Inn sleeper/gold-class sleeper $37/113/300, four than 40mm. Bush camping in the park is
is a good resource for getting around the Port Augusta (%8642 2755; www.comfortpa.com.au; hours) and Sydney (seat/sleeper/gold-class prohibited between 1 November and 30
ranges. Walking trails are marked, and there Hwy 1; d $75-145; as) was Comfort Inn of sleeper $266/591/770, 31 hours) on Tues- April. If you want to walk this route be-
are inset maps of the Flinders Ranges and the Year in 2004 and is well shielded from day and Friday. tween those dates your best option is to
Mt Remarkable National Parks. the highway traffic noise. The attached Gal- Rental cars are available from Budget begin at Alligator Gorge, camping the night
To whet your walking appetite seek out lery Restaurant (mains $18-26; hdinner) gives the (%8642 6040; www.budget.com.au; 14 Young St) and at Mambray Creek.
a copy of Walking in the Flinders Ranges by usual suspects an unusual twist wasabi Avis (%8641 1010; www.avis.com.au; 35 Victoria Pde).
CW Bonython, one of the classic Austral- oysters, emu satays and a shared Drovers Maps
ian adventure yarns, recounting a 1000km Tucker Platter ($56), consisting of emu Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic maps
walk along the length of the ranges. Flinders satays, kangaroo fillet, camel ragout and MT REMARKABLE GORGES Melrose and Wilmington cover the walk.
Ranges Walks, edited by Peter Beer, has a crocodile steak with bush tomato relish and Duration 2 days Buy them in Adelaide.
selection of walks (and mud maps) through- quandong glaze. Distance 40km
out the Flinders. Northern & Exchange Hotel (4 Tassie St; hlunch Difficulty moderate Information Sources
& dinner) is two conjoined pubs melded into Start/Finish Mambray Creek (p264) Any questions about the park and its walks
Permits & Regulations a dining conglomerate. Nearest Town Port Germein (right) can be answered by rangers at the Mambray
Park entry to the Mt Remarkable and Maxis Pizza Bar (pizzas $6-14) brings the Transport private Creek park office (%08-8643 7068; www.environment
Flinders Ranges National Parks is $7 per car Flinders Ranges to town with standard piz- Summary Wander a high ridge to link two .sa.gov.au/parks/mt_remarkable).
($4.50 per motorbike). Walker bush camp- zas renamed into features such as Wilpena superb gorges in the less-heralded Southern
ing is $4 per night. Fires are not permitted Cheese and Brachina Gorge Hawaiian, Flinders Ranges. Permits & Regulations
along any of the walks, so you will need to while Wharfies Bistro (mains $10-17) does oys- Camping is prohibited in Alligator Gorge,
carry a fuel stove. ters, steaks and hickory chicken. Or you can Hidden Gorge and within 2.5km of the
just plump for a counter meal. Mt Remarkable National Park might well junction of Alligator and Mambray Creeks.
ACCESS TOWN For a change from the hotels and motels be described as the forgotten Flinders it Bush camping in the park is prohibited be-
Port Augusta that dominate Port Augustas dining scene, is the place everybody drives past in their tween 1 November and 30 April.
%08 / pop 13,194 graze at popular Hot Peppers Caf (34 Commer- hurry to get to Wilpena Pound. But stop
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Port Augusta is the so-called crossroads cial Rd; breakfast $8, burgers $9), where the coffee and walk for a while and you will discover NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
of Australia, with highways radiating from menu is like an honour roll. that there is much to recommend it, es- Port Germein
this town to Perth, Darwin, Adelaide and Coles (Jervois St) and Woolworths (Tassie St) are pecially in and around beautiful Alligator %08 / pop 279
Sydney. As such, it has an overriding feeling both central. Gorge. Port Germeins big claim to fame is that it
of functionality, and for walkers it is indeed The 16,000-hectare national park is di- supposedly has Australias longest wooden
functional, with Wilpena Pound and the GETTING THERE & AWAY vided into two sections: Mt Remarkable jetty (a gong also claimed by Busselton in
Mt Remarkable National Park a short drive OConnor Airlines (%8723 0666; www.oconnor-airlines and Mambray Creek. The walk described Western Australia), at 1283m, and when
away. The visitor information centre (%1800 .com.au) flies between Adelaide and Port Au- here is the major outing in the Mambray the tide is out it needs just about every
633 060; www.portaugusta.sa.gov.au; 41 Flinders Tce) gusta ($185, 35 minutes) on weekdays. Creek section, beginning near the park metre. It is a likeable slow-paced town un-
is in the Wadlata Outback Centre, while The bus terminal (%8642 5055; 23 Mackay St) is headquarters and ranging out to the parks less you are a crustacean crabbing is Port
the DEH (%8648 5020; upstairs, 9 Mackay St) has a in the city centre. Premier Stateliner (%8415 most striking feature: narrow, brick-red Germeins prime recreation.
few brochures on the Flinders Ranges and 5555; www.premierstateliner.com.au) travels to Ad- Alligator Gorge. The circular route can Port Germein Caravan Park (%8634 5266; Es-
bushwalking (as well as a resident jungle elaide ($41, four hours, four to six per day), be comfortably completed in two days, al- planade; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $14/20, cabins
python). while Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99; www though variations can string it out to a third $50-65) is basic but has the best jetty views
Better Homes Supplies (% 8642 3033; 16-22 .greyhound.com.au) runs to Alice Springs ($225, day. If you have the time it is worth allow- in town. The advertised grassed camping
Woodstock St) has a selection of camping gear. 14 hours, daily). Only Premier Stateliner ing an extra day to enjoy around the area areas are the exception not the norm.
tickets can be purchased at the terminal. around Alligator Gorge. Go easy on the alcohol if you are sleeping
SLEEPING & EATING The train station (Stirling Rd) is at the city Water tanks are plentiful along the route at the Port Germein Hotel (%8634 8244; High St;
Leafy and large, the Port Augusta Big 4 Holiday centres southeastern edge. Through Great check with rangers at Mambray Creek as s/d $30/60; mains $9-16; hlunch Fri-Sun, dinner daily),
Park (%1800 833 444; www.portaugustabig4.com.au; Southern Railway (%13 21 47; www.gsr.com.au) to water levels. where the floors of the generous-sized rooms
264 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S M t R e m a r k a b l e G o r g e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S M t R e m a r k a b l e G o r g e s 265

550 550 450450


450
have more slopes than a ski resort. The coun- The track climbs on gradually to Teal creeks. This grass tree-covered hillside be-

600
00
Mt Remarkable
600 550
500 Gorges

500
550

450
550
Ki
45

reek 35
ter meals are the old-fashioned sort that still 4 50
Dam. Turn left here, following a narrow comes a canvas of wildflowers in spring and

ora

0
1 : 200,000 0 5 km

500
550
550
50 50m Contour Interval 0 3 miles

500

Stony C
believe in coleslaw and beetroot. path through the bush to a vehicle track. has great views back over the bush to Mt

50
0

0
550

No
M th R
50

0
The general store (High St) only has survival- Turn left again and cross Alligator Creek Remarkable.

40
65

ain d
r
0
450
level supplies, so stock up in Adelaide or to reach Longhill Camp (1 to two hours At a junction of 4WD tracks continue

450 500

450
00 500
Port Augusta. from Hidden Camp). The camp has no fa- straight ahead, through a stand of sugar
Port Germein is 240km from Adelaide cilities but Blue Gum Flat, with toilets, gas gums, to a junction before a saddle. Turn

550
0
400 40

500

600 600
Trail

600
along Hwy 1. Premier Stateliner (%08-8415 5555;

0
k
roo barbecues and tap water, is just 300m away. left across the saddle and up to Battery

He
0 70

k
(625m) 45

45
600 600
re

yse
ta r B
C
www.premierstateliner.com.au) buses from Adelaide It is worth exploring Alligator Gorge in the Track. Straight ahead is a narrow path to

65

0
Creek
500

700 650650
75

600 nT
All Ranger

ny
Sto
600

rail
($45, 3 hours, one to three daily) and Port evening. a viewpoint overlooking Spencer Gulf and

N ec

700
Post

700
iga
0

700
70

Gullet

M
Augusta ($18, 45 minutes, two daily exclud- Port Augusta. On a clear day, Whyalla can

Spring Creek
tor Cr

550 550
tR
0
65

450 5 0 0

550
650
Alligator

em

550

5450
Ri
ing Saturday) stop at Port Germein. SIDE TRIP: SUGAR GUM LOOKOUT be seen across the gulf to the southwest.

50
ng Lodge

eek
nt

ark ute T

e
350

e
Ro

Mou

ab

k
Alligator Cr
35 3040 minutes, 2km return Turn left along Battery Track, which you

le

650 600
0 The Terraces

600 600
Go
Mambray Creek Eaglehawk Alligator Gorge At the junction of Mambray and Alliga- follow for two hours, passing a water tank

rge
en Trail

Sprin
550
rail
Heys

350
Dam Longhill

sT
Inside Mt Remarkable National Park, and tor Creeks continue northeast on the 4WD at the junction with Fricks Trail. There are

600
Camp The Narrows 550

rac
Water

700 700

g CSrep
600
k
DAY 2

650
Creek
500
Tank
set among magnificent river red gums, Mam- track, crossing Mambray Creek to stone great views of a parallel escarpment to the

600
Teal Dam Narrow gorge. Will

650
Blue

700
probably need to wade.

550
Gum
bray Creek camping ground (per car/motorbike $8/5) Scarfes Hut (no camping). Here, the track east, at least until the she-oaks take over the

Fricks Trail

Alligator
The Battery Flat

700
750
700
400
600

650
P i ne
has hot showers, a cavalcade of wildlife and Battery turns uphill to a ridge and overgrown Sugar bush beyond Fricks Trail. Watch for emus,

600
300

700
Ridge
250 250 250

is just metres from the trailhead. Mambray Gum Lookout, set among native pines and wedge-tailed eagles and sunning snakes.

Trac
Kingfisher Dam

700700

650
650
Stringers Mt Remarkable Kingfisher
B a t t e ry

650
Cabin ($35-40) is within the camping ground, large sugar gums. Follow the cairns to a After 1 hours you come to Stringers camp

ek

650
750
Camp Site National Park Flat 600

700
Allkigator Cre
Alliga
Water Sugar

700700
750
with a gas stove and four beds (linen not HiddenGor
Tank Gum Dam lower ledge for the best view of the cliffs site (no facilities), which is little more than a
Track

750
g

300 tor Cre


supplied). above Alligator Creek. cleared area of dirt beside the track, though

650

0
700

65
700
eT

60
550
Hidden
rail
Battery Red Cliffs
If driving to Mambray Creek, follow it does have an ocean view.
ree
Gorge Hidden Camp
Lookout

ek
Pine rC
Hwy 1 north from Port Germein for 20km Day 2: Longhill Camp to Mambray Creek From here Battery Track slowly descends,

650
800
Flat
ato

700
Fire

ee k
Side Trip

700
Lookout &
lig

reaching a side track to Battery Lookout for


Mt Rema

(or 48km south from Port Augusta), turn- 68 hours, 27km

800 800
Cr
Water Tank
Al

Scarfes y
15

Al

bra
350

ing right at the signposted Mambray Creek Hut


Return along the vehicle track, past the trail the clearest view yet of Spencer Gulf. Port
0

lig

Ma m
at

Alternative

700
or
rkable Go

turn-off. The camping ground is 6km from Sugar Gum to Teal Dam, into Blue Gum Flat. At the Pirie is visible to the south, framed by grass
450

Finish The Bluff


Cr

0
Lookout
300

750

80
ee

800
(350m) Water
350

the highway. Premier Stateliner (%08-8415 information board turn left, forking im- trees. Five minutes on, by a water tank and

750
Mt Cavern (770m)
k

Mambray k Tank
e ry T

750
500

Creek Camping ac
5555; www.premierstateliner.com.au) operates a serv- Tr mediately left again to descend into Alligator fire lookout tower, turn left onto Hidden
500
rges Track

700

Ground ng The 600

ek
ki
500

600

700
t t l
550

a Pinnacle
re
Ba
ice from Adelaide ($45, 3 hours) or Port nW C Gorge, named not for the presence of any Gorge Trail for a gradual 20-minute descent
600

START/ er 650 (726m)


600

a
v 7
65 50
root
FINISH Mt Ca

750
Augusta ($18, 30 minutes) and will drop 0 reptiles, but supposedly after an Aborigi- north before rounding the spur (and a meat-
550

Black Range
500

Ba
Creek

To Port Park il
you at the turn-off (you will have to walk a Lookout nal shepherd called Alli. Head upstream ant metropolis) into Hidden Gorge. The gorge
700
Germein Headquarters Tr
otaney 500

700

ing 0
ee
k
k

(23km); alk 50 50
ee

the 6km to Mambray Creek). Cr 0 5 (north), crossing the creek several times walls flicker between steep, pine-covered
Cr

Port W 450 50
ta
600

Augusta u lly e
k
ion 550

250 pe
until the closing walls force you to simply slopes and towering, ever-more-impressive
Cahroim

sG
ee

(51km) y o
Cr

a ve M
THE WALK
400

D
k

500

wade through the Narrows, where the red quartzite cliffs. Where the creek turns briefly
reeB
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
C350

600 600
300

reek
300

0
200
100

C
55

ra

Day 1: Mambray Creek to Longhill Camp


600

um quartzite cliffs clamp almost shut. Continue south there is a beauty, with the cliffs worn
pa

600

450
dg
ota
350

600
Se

Re
650
250

450
ro

through the gorge, passing a set of steps up back to reveal lilac-coloured rock in the jag-
50

34 hours, 13km
Ba

Baroota Nob(0m)
From the day-visitor car park (as popular to Alligator Gorge car park. ged face.
with emus as people), begin east along the one side and then the other. After 40 min- At the next fork in the creek, turn left Take the inside corner at the next bend
4WD track. You can stay with the track as utes the track turns northeast, with the val- to the Terraces, which are slabs of rock rip- for a simple scramble down through a rock
it makes a series of fords along Mambray ley widening and filling with cypress pines. pled like sand from a time when this was fall. Ten minutes later, past large rock falls
Creek, or you can avoid the fords by fol- At Pine Flat swing southwest between dark- ocean-front real estate. Walk up the slabs on both slopes, the gorge narrows dramati-
lowing a couple of alternative walking trails. ening cliffs, and in 500m you come to the and continue upstream, beginning a 250m cally before opening out towards the junc-
The route is through a wooded floodplain junction with Hidden Gorge Trail. climb to Battery Ridge. At first the track tion with the trail along Alligator Creek
where euros are plentiful and kookaburras Continue straight ahead through Hidden can be vague, but stay beside the creek and (1 to 1 hours from Battery Ridge). Turn
and galahs provide the entertainment. After Camp (no facilities), which sits below beau- it will always turn up. The gorge walls soon right and retrace your steps to Mambray
45 minutes you reach a water tank at the tiful ochre cliffs, to join a rough valley track. close in again spectacularly and you will be Creek.
junction of Mambray and Alligator Creeks. This fords the creek a few more times to Red splashing once more along the creek bed.
Turn left off the 4WD track, cross Mam- Cliffs. Here, the track climbs out of the valley Fork left again at the next split in the ALTERNATIVE FINISH: OVER THE BLUFF
bray Creek and head generally north along through bottlebrush and mallee scrub. You creek. The gorge soon shallows and the 1 hours, 5km
the banks of Alligator Creek. This is a beau- will catch an occasional glimpse of the val- path becomes more distinct, switching If the thought of a long second day doesnt
tiful stretch of walking, a classic Flinders ley before you pass the junction with Fricks from bank to bank. At the next fork in the appeal, continue along the Battery Track for
scene of river red gums, stony creek bed Trail (with water tank). Just ahead is grassy creek (45 minutes to one hour from the 1km past the fire lookout tower, then turn
and rust-red cliffs. You will cross the creek Kingfisher Flat camping ground (with toilet Terraces) continue straight on, following left where the 4WD track makes a sharp
numerous times as the cliffs close in first on and water tank). the path that climbs steeply between the right turn. This trail heads southeast down
266 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S W i l p e n a P o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S W i l p e n a P o u n d 267

a long spur to the Bluff (350m), reached bushwalkers register as either medium or
after a short climb. There are some good difficult (such as the walk described here) SAINT OR SERPENT?
views over the plains. The trail then turns should be entered into the register. St Mary Peak (1171m) is the highest mountain in the Flinders Ranges and a place of great sig-
southwest down into more open terrain be- nificance to the Adnyamathana (or Hill People), who prefer that visitors dont climb it. In the
fore descending steeply to Mambray Creek. NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES Adnyamathana dreaming, two serpents travelling south camped at a waterhole near Edeowie
Turn right and head back to the car park. Hawker Gorge. That night, a group of people held an initiation ceremony in the Pound. The serpents
%08 / pop 298 twined together around the ceremony, surrounding its participants and eating all but two of
Hawker is 55km south from, and in sight them. The serpents bodies now form the walls of the Pound, as they lay here still watching the
WILPENA POUND of, Wilpena Pound. You can whet your ap- escape of the two initiates. St Mary Peak is the head of the male serpent (Beatrice Hill is the
Duration 2 days petite for the Pound by checking out the head of the female).
Distance 28.8km Wilpena Panorama (cnr Wilpena & Craddock Rds; adult/ To respect the wishes of the Adnyamathana, you should not climb onto St Mary Peak beyond
Difficulty easymoderate child $5/2), a stunning landscape painting de- Tandera Saddle.
Start/Finish Wilpena Pound Resort picting the 360-degree view from atop St
(opposite) Mary Peak. It shows most of the terrain
Nearest Town Hawker (right) you will cover in the Wilpena Pound and Old Ghan Restaurant (%8648 4176; Leigh Creek Rd; Gulf Getaways (%1800 170 170) buses leave
Transport bus Heysen Highlight walks. lunch $10-16, dinner $17-24; hlunch Wed, dinner Thu-Sat) Port Augusta for Wilpena ($50, 2 hours)
Summary A highlights package incorporating Teague Hawker Motors (% 8648 4014; cnr is set in the old stone railway station at the at 3.30pm Friday and noon Sunday, stop-
the Pounds best tracks into an easy circuit cap- Wilpena & Craddock Rds) has that bush knack for western end of town, and has an eclectic ping at Hawker en route. They return from
turing the best of this natural amphitheatre. being all things to all people: petrol station, menu that ranges from crumbed camem- Wilpena 2 hours later.
knowledgeable visitor information centre, bert with quandong chutney, to barramundi
seismograph station and the Flinders Ranges reared at the local school, to nachos. THE WALK
Wilpena Pound is a circular beauty spot on Accommodation Booking Service (%1800 777 880; Day 1: Wilpena Pound Resort to
the face of the outback. Fifteen kilometres www.frabs.com.au), which offers stays at six sta- GETTING THERE & AWAY Cooinda Camp via Edeowie Gorge
long and 8km wide, it is one of the most tions, mostly around Hawker. It also has the Gulf Getaways (%1800 170 170) runs buses be- 45 hours, 15.3km
striking landmarks in the country, and largest selection of books on the Flinders tween Port Augusta and Wilpena, stopping From the bushwalkers register beside the
to many people it is the Flinders Ranges. you are ever likely to find. at Hawker. Buses depart Port Augusta ($40, store begin along the bank of Wilpena Creek.
All of the marked trails in and around the one hour 20 minutes) at 3.30pm Friday and Cross the creek at the second bridge (look
Pound are manageable as day-walks, but SLEEPING & EATING noon Sunday, and make the return from out for a giant, hollowed river red gum on
the route described here combines the best Hawker Caravan Park (%8648 4006; www.hawkersa Wilpena ($20, 45 minutes) 2 hours later. your right), then turn left, walk 100m and
tracks into a single circuit walk, with the .info/hcpark.htm; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $23-25/ turn right. Follow the St Mary Peak Out-
added allure of spending a night inside the 24-33, cabins $80-125) has an open area featuring Wilpena Pound Resort side Trail posts through open woodland
Pound. You also have the opportunity to drive-through sites, including the outback The Wilpena Pound visitor information centre to a junction where the Heysen Trail peels
walk much of it without your pack. Trail rarity of grassy tent sites. (% 08-8648 0048; www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/ away right into the camping ground.
marking through the Pound is unequalled, Hawker Hotel-Motel (%8648 4102; hawhotmot@ flinders_ranges) is an excellent source of walk- Continue straight ahead as the path un-
with distance markers every 200m and internode.on.net; cnr Elder & Wonoka Tces; s/tw/d with shared ing info. dulates northwest, crisscrossed by dry gul-
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
regular directional markers. bathroom $35/50/55, motel s/d $70/80, meals $11-19) has Beautifully set just outside Pound Gap, lies and kangaroo trails. You get your first
no-frills hotel rooms and self-contained Wilpena Pound Resort (% 1800 805 802; www glimpse of St Mary Peaks ramp-like sum-
PLANNING motel rooms on the edge of town. Lunch and .wilpenapound.com.au; dm $30, s $115-185, d $125-199; mit at the 1.8km marker, but it is another
When to Walk dinner are from a standard pub-grub menu ais) has four room types with local- 30 minutes before the first decent view.
Walking is best between May and October, with the addition of items such as salmon ised names Brachina, Aroona, Heysen and Soon after, the 300m climb to Tandera
when temperatures average between 13C salad and cold collation. Edeowie but generic motel features. For Saddle begins in earnest, ascending west
and 25C and there is usually water in the The spacious rooms at the Outback Chap- top dollar you get a kitchen and a bigger through several rocky outcrops some of
creeks and the rockhole near Cooinda Camp. manton Motel (%8648 4100; www.hawkersa.info/biz/ TV. The resort also manages the adjoining the climbing involves basic scrambling.
Prepare for cold nights freezing dawns are outback.htm; 1 Wilpena Rd; s/d $85/95) are the best camping ground (unpowered/powered sites for 2 $16/22, There are regular views north across the
not unusual in winter. Avoid summer, when in town. The associated Chapmanton Holiday permanent tent $50), where your neighbours will arched back of the Heysen Range.
temperatures frequently rise to 45C. Units (Arkaba St; s/d $90/100) are about 500m be feathered and furred as well as human. At the final outcrop, after 45 minutes
away and are plainer and a bit frayed but Permanent tents have power and a fridge. to one hour of climbing, veer left (follow-
Maps offer two bedrooms and a kitchen. Shared The resort store has a wide range of sup- ing the blue reflectors) to rise onto Tandera
Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic map Wil- reception is at the motel. plies, though it is mostly items (frozen piz- Saddle. The view includes St Mary Peak to
pena covers the whole Pound. Buy it in Ad- Hawker General Store (cnr Wilpena & Craddock Rds; zas, cheesecake etc) you wont want to stuff the northwest, Mt Boorong to the southeast
elaide if possible. sandwiches $4-7) has supplies enough if your into a backpack. At Captain Starlights Bistro and the mogul-like peaks of the Pounds
walking palette is undemanding. The at- (mains $14-23; hbreakfast & dinner) you can watch opposite wall in between. If you are intent
Permits & Regulations tached caf does sandwiches and hot dogs, Skippy graze metres away as you eat one on climbing St Mary Peak (see the boxed
Cooinda is the only permitted camp site in- with cameos by such notables as celery juice of his mates. Poddy Dodgers Bar (mains $13-17; text, above), note that it involves more
side the Pound. Walks listed on the trailhead and zucchini and leek soup. hlunch) offers a pub atmosphere next door. scrambling and can be treacherous if wet.
268 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S W i l p e n a P o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S H e y s e n H i g h l i g h t 269

Wilpena Pound 1 : 70,000 0


50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile
2 km Head south out of camp on a path that HEYSEN HIGHLIGHT
900 700 550
850
6 soon becomes a wider track, passing from
St Mary
800 11000 Peak(1171m)
105 stands of cypress pine and young eucalyp- Duration 3 days
10
00
tuses into open woodland dotted with large, Distance 61.5km

11
0
65

00
105
0 600
unruly gums. Twenty minutes after passing Difficulty moderate
95 00 St Mary Pea He
0

10 Start Parachilna Gorge


k Outside
through a large clearing, popular with kan-
75

0 Trai 650 yse


Tandera l n
Saddle Tra
700 85 il garoos, the trail reaches a junction with the Finish Wilpena Pound Resort (p267)
Edeowie 0 Mount
Gorge Boorong
650 Heysen Trail. Continue straight on to Hills Nearest Town Hawker (p266)
(1085m)
0
60 Homestead, a stone settlers home built in Transport shuttle service

1000
650
0
750 55 the early 1900s. There is a water tank and Summary Follow the northern end of the

900
0 Attunga
95
Malloga
Bannon
Bluff
(1009m) Wilpena Pound toilet here and the beginning of the trail to Heysen Trail to discover the Heysen and
Falls Resort Caravan
Gap Park To Wangara Lookouts, set on a gentle ridge ABC Ranges and the best views of Wilpena
Edeowie Cree

95 Hawker
0
(55km) running north from the homestead. Pound.
START/ Cross the footbridge and join the road,

0
80
Rockhole Wangara FINISH
Hill passing a beautiful pool where Wilpena If you dont have a spare two months to
k

650 (898m)
Cooinda Camp DAY 2
700
850
Wilpena Creek briefly widens. Walk through Pound walk the entire Heysen Trail (below), con-
Pound
800 Pound Resort Gap to the 0.8km marker, where the track to sider walking this northernmost section in-
Gap
Mt Ohlssen Bagge breaks away right. Take stead. This is where the trail is arguably at
Flinders
this track, crossing Wilpena Creek and con- its most magnificent, following the curling

800
Ranges
National Park Drought
St
M
ary
Busters tinuing straight ahead into open country. Heysen and ABC Ranges, which run north
Trail
Pe a
Avoid the right turns to the Drought from Wilpena Pound. It is also the section

a Creek
k In

600
side

650
Tra
il Buster Trail and climb gradually through most fitting to a Heysen Trail experience

Wilpen
90
porcupine grass, casuarinas and grass trees. it was around here, particularly around the

800
0
Hill's Mt The trail zigzags round a series of weathered Aroona Valley, that Sir Hans Heysen, the

85
Homestead

0
Ohlssen
850

outcrops, working its way southeast along a painter for whom the trail is named, took

75
Bagge

70

0
(940m)

0
Heysen
Wilpena
Spring wide shelf to a break in the summit escarp- much of his artistic inspiration.
Trail
Greig
Peak North W
ment, where it turns west. Once through There are reliable water sources at
ilpena Creek
the escarpment it doubles back to follow Aroona and Yanyanna Hut and usually at
the cliff edge to the summit of Mt Ohlssen the vehicle camp sites near the trail. For
It should not be attempted if the summit is from camp. It is a well-formed track but Bagge (940m), which has a great view into information on water levels at other loca-
covered by cloud. you will still be pushing through casuarinas the Pound, including Edeowie Gorge and tions, check with rangers at Wilpena.
The old walking track straight down much of the time. Pass the rockhole and cross the upturned nose of St Mary Peak. To the
into the Pound is now closed (though still North Wilpena Creek twice (there may be north, directly below, you will see the resort PLANNING
very visible). Instead, turn left along the water at the first crossing) before climbing and its solar power station. When to Walk
ridge, descending across the slope of Mt to some rock shelves with good views north Retrace your steps to the road, turn right The best season is around August to mid-
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Boorong, officially entering the Pound as to Tandera Saddle and the ribbed back of and follow it into the resort. October when you can expect fine, warm
you leave the ridge. If it seems like a shorter St Mary Peak. Pass another gully look
descent than the climb, it is the floor of to your right and you will see a set of rock
the Pound is around 180m higher than the steps masquerading as a waterfall and 10 HEYSEN TRAIL
surrounding land. As you descend you will minutes later you come to a large cairn and Named after Sir Hans Heysen (18771968), a renowned painter of the Flinders Ranges and Mt
get glimpses across the scrub that reveal the a glimpse into Edeowies depths. Lofty areas, the Heysen Trail stretches for 1200km from Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula to
Pounds circular shape. The trail descends into Edeowie Gorge Parachilna Gorge in the Northern Flinders Ranges. It is one of the most daunting long-distance
Passing through Bannon Gap, you come and the end of the marked track. Follow walks in the country. Even if you are able to walk 30km per day, you will be on the trail for 40
to stony North Wilpena Creek (one to 1 hours the creek bed west for five minutes, edging days, much of the time through semiarid country. Most people take around 60 days to walk
from Tandera Saddle). Cross it to reach around the left side of a waterfall. Malloga the trail.
Cooinda Camp (no facilities), set among Falls are 20m on, inside the narrow slot of Sections of the trail that run through private property are closed from about November through
low mallees. Water is available at a rock- an orange side canyon. to March, while trails through national and other parks close on days of Total Fire Ban. This is
hole (marked on the Wilpena map) about Retrace your steps back to camp. not a walk you want to tackle in summer anyhow average January maximums in Hawker are
500m from camp. To find the hole, follow around 34C.
the Edeowie Gorge trail until just beyond Day 2: Cooinda Camp to Wilpena The Friends of the Heysen Trail (see p251) should be your first stop if considering a walk
the 9.0km marker, looking for a small rock Pound Resort along the Heysen Trail its website has some excellent planning material. Pick up also the
ledge on your right. The rockhole is below 34 hours, 13.7km two dedicated guidebooks to the trail, Heysen Trail Northern Guide and Heysen Trail Southern
here; it is an easy scramble down. Get an early start this morning and you will Guide. They feature brief descriptions of each section, have excellent maps and are ring-bound
Store your pack in camp and take the be mingling with kangaroos most of the for ease of use on the trail.
Edeowie Gorge trail, which leads northwest way to Hills Homestead.
270 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S H e y s e n H i g h l i g h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S H e y s e n H i g h l i g h t 271

40

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5
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ek u

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at
e400
conditions and a decent mat of wildflowers. It is a gentle ascent mostly, though there is Horn

500 600

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3

400

550
Heysen Highlight

55
300400 ga 450
50

350

600
Or
350 350
Camp

600
WARNING

450

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400 r
350 tu 350

650
450 C
Day 1 of the walk runs through private prop- a steep pinch after about 800m. The track

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Mount

6
Blinman

500
350 300 350
1 : 320,000 0 5 km

350

00
450

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650

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Mary(0m)

400
n
50m Contour Interval (739m) 0 k a Cree 3 miles

500 5
600

O 300

650
650

eek
Angorichina
erty and is closed between 1 November and River red gums (which are ominously known descends east from here to reach a junction a Cree

650
chilnPara

300250
Parachi chiln

ra
Village ParaThe 60 k

350

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600

r
Parachilna

350
300
lna Cre 0

600
400

C
450

600
Creek

300

550 550
550
15 April and on days of Total Fire Ban. with a walking trail. Take this path south- Gorge ek Waterfalls
Elevation

650650
300
as widow-makers) can unload branches

an
650
350

a
iln

550
450
START 4 Parach

linm
Alpana

B550
Blinman

600 600 600


650
00
without warning, so choose your tent site east (the 4WD track continues straight

600
45 Angorichina Pools

500
k

650

550
500

600
0 TouristTaring Saddle 5 650Wilpena Pound ee

0
500

550
500
Cr
Maps & Books

550 550 55
550
50
on for 1.8km to Red Hill Lookout, which

550
carefully, well clear of these large trees. Village

550 500
Wild Dog
Yanyanna n

700
Mt Falkland 600 a

400

600
450
Morela

700

550
550 m

450
(792m) Hut inman CreHut ek Blin

35
The series of maps dedicated to the Heysen has carbon-copy views to that ahead at

500

600
750
550 W Bl

550
0

600 600
Bunyeroo

450

550

550
500
oc
Middlesight

550
Trail have been phased out and replaced Brachina Lookout). Aroona ke HutPatterton Lookout

650
50

700 750

650600
Cr

W
Mt Bell 500 Water r

550
eek 0
Valley o c kera w a Lookout
(778m) wir ir

550
550
by two books. Heysen Trail Northern parrots are common here, as are shingle- Cross a wide creek, then begin a sus- ra ra reek

45
450 Cr CrPatterton C(707m

650

500
Nintenta

400
400400 400 450

0
AB
Peak(726m) eek ee Mount
Guide covers the described route and in- back lizards. tained climb into the Brachina Formation.

600
500
k

650
Crisp Gorge

500
550650
400 Emily(0m)6

C
450

Ran
Workara 600

Fi
Gum Creek
cludes accurate maps and mostly accurate After 45 minutes to one hour, climb above After 10 minutes you reach Yuluna Hike Dead Goat Parachilna Tr Gorge

550
550

550
55

ve
Peak(0m) Soak Bulara Peak(624m) 350 0
Barrego ez

ge
Mile
Mingari
wa Cre on
elevation profiles. The alternative is to buy the creek, following a fence to a small sad- junction. Turn left, heading east along the

600
550

650

600
Peak ek South 300

550
aR

600
600
Crown

600
600

600
an Hill(0m

Creek
the Landsmap 1:50,000 topographic maps dle. Round the spur into Wild Dog Valley spur to Brachina Lookout. From this fantastic (697m)

550
750
ge

600
Cosy Creek 250m

700
450 400 350

800
600
Tea 6

650
30 00 40

600 650
Mt Dib(817m)

800

500
0km 10 20 50 60

800
Wilpena, Oraparinna and Blinman, though and a plain covered in cypress pine, dotted vantage point you can see Wilpena Pound

600 650

600 600
750

600
500
Kankana ee k
arekila Cr Mt Dab(816m)

500
WPeak(834m) Creek

600 600
750
Bulls

55
550
500
they dont show the trail. with wattle. Continuing south, views open to the south and the long lines of the Hey- Taring Saddle

750
600

550 600
750 600

0
700
Iralbo Pigeon

450450
alking Track Bulls

600
700

600
Peak(804m)
out of the Heysen Range and Mt Bell, with sen and ABC Ranges.

600
300
Bore W

550
Gap

600
Hey
p

500
Aroona 550

700

550550600 600
600
Ba ek
thtub Cre

550
a
600
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES

700

600
750 700

sG
its red escarpment and lush gorges. The trail drops off the back of the range, Hill (687m) Tk

600
sen

ull
Mount 550 ing

B
Aroona Valley l k

ek
Barloo(758m)
Mount a

750
Tra
See Hawker (p266) and Wilpena Pound The trail dips into Wild Dog Creek a cou- crosses a 4WD track and continues south-

700
Camping WHill

Cr e
Barbara Red

50
ap 550

il
Ground

600
Aroona GLookout

0
Bu
Resort (p267). ple of times but mostly stays on the vehicle east. Crossing Brachina Creek several times lls

a
nd ee Lookout

500 500 k
Bu

600600
ulla

n
Cr Brachina Lookout

Yu500
Koolamon

500450 450
u
450

800
800
track. About one hour from the saddle you you reach the ruins of Morela Hut, an outsta-

l
Spring

300
Walkandi Peak

450
Trezona Bore

450
DAY 2

40ke
300

450
850

0
Angorichina Tourist Village Walkandi Creek Yuluna H Morela

450
i

450
reach a fence. Walk beside this, crossing tion of Haywards Aroona property, though

450
a W a 0 r ac k
450

400

k
He

k N 450450

450 450
Mt Hayward

ek

ee
Hut (ruin)

450
800

no 550
lking T
Near the head of Parachilna Gorge, Angori-

Cr
the creek and climbing steeply onto the op- now just a fireplace. Below the ruins you

yse
reek (865m)

Cre
h
Hayward CSouth False

ort

a Creek

45

a
m
nR
Mount Hayward(843m)
Hayward Brachina Enor

ra
china Tourist Village (%08-8648 4842; unpowered/

400
posite bank. Crossing a stile, you will get a will see the Trezona Bore windmill but it

E500
Mt

400
200
Bluff

an

450
Formation

350 400

450
Hayward(854m)

500
350 400

a
ree
400
ge

450
450
Youngoona

oon
powered sites per person $9/10, dm from $14, cabins $70; glimpse west into Crisp Gorge. has no accessible water supply.

i
Trez o n
ach
aC

400
Trezona Waterhole

450
Heysen Ora

Ar
0

250
Brachina

Br
n
30 Camping parin
ai) is in the literal middle of nowhere, Descend back to the creek, crossing it Take the faint path (not the 4WD track) Hill

450
Ili
Brach Gorge Ground Youngoona na

450
ina G

450
0

400

450
orge Rd 30

450
Camping

550 500 500 450


450400
Trezona
which is handy since that places it very near several times on a narrow and faint (but south, rounding the hillocks and then fol-

350
350
Single Gum

400
0 Ground

550
40

450
Brachina Gap Hill (462m) Trailhead

400
600
El
to the trailhead. Camp sites are shaly but well-marked) path before rejoining a vehi- lowing Brachina Creek. After about 40 min- ati

Et
450 450
Elatina na

in
ing 400

600
The Guardian

a
350

450
450 ck

550500500
Middlesight
have great views onto the ABC and Heysen cle track. This continues faithfully south, utes you break from the creek, veering into

550
Water

Cr
(630m)

350

450 ra
T Water Hut

550 500
300
(639m)

eeEt
500 400450

550
600600 600
Old

400

k in
450

450
Ranges. Mountain bikes can also be hired beside and along the creek to Taring Saddle open country that only becomes more open

Cr
Elatina

500
l
450
Wa

600 650
450

ee

aC
Hut

350

450

600 550600
k
($45 per day) if you need to ride back to (45 minutes from the stile). You have now and hard-baked as you walk. As the pines

350

500

na
450

550

ree
0

600
y an

600
500

40

700
550

65
0

600
35

0
Wilpena to pick up your car. climbed around 320m since leaving Para- disappear and the elegant wattles (looking

500

600 600 600 550 550


Yan
45
250
Mt

600
Bunyeroo
Rupert Valley

650
550
450
Yanyanna Hut

600
chilna Gorge, though it should have been most inelegant) become more predominant

450
(605m)

600
Lookout Mount

550

600
350 300 250
DAY 3

750750
450

500
500
Well

600 550
450

750
GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK

450
almost imperceptible. there are more good views of the Pound. Bu Bunyeroo

500

550 550 550

750
50 Bu

750
300 300
250
ny Gorge Yanyanna

400

450
Mount

550
450400

0 ny
ero

550
400
o Cr Hill(514m) 650 Sunderland 00

450 450
The trailhead is at a car park inside Para- Begin an equally gentle descent into the The way can be confused by the many ani-

550 500
250 7

700
400

550
eek er o

600 600600
450
400

700
ee400
400

650
350
(259m) o

600 650
chilna Gorge, 3.7km west from Angorichina Aroona Valley, pass the windmill at Pigeon mal tracks that intersect the path stay at

55600
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Rd
k
350
0

400
450
600

350
350

650 50
600
400
Bunyeroo

550
600
Bore (where you can pump iron-tasting

Wilcolo Cr
Tourist Village. a fairly constant height; the trails that head

350

400

600

6506
650
450 450
450

55600
Valley

450

B uny

650
(664m)

700

600
Alpana Station (% 08-8648 4864; www.alpana water) and head through open woodland up the hills are the critters.

500

500

650
350
Bunyeroo Appealinna Spring Cadbury Spring

350

650
50

ero o R
600 600
Mt Sinnett

500
500
Wilcolo T
0
-station.netfirms.com) operates a shuttle service for 1 hours to an old farm gate. Cross a Two hours from Brachina Lookout you Lookout

600
(721m)

600
450

600
Wilc

600
500
850

500

500

600
800
for walkers between Wilpena Pound and stile and turn east, walking 100m to Aroona come to a track junction with the Trezona

750

d
55

550

500

650
Flinders 0

500

550
350

olo C
Upalinna

650 500

500
Mt Abrupt

750
Ranges

550 550
650
Parachilna ($140). Lookout, with views across the valley to Mt Hike. Turn right and cross back towards Outstation

rac
(861m)

600
850
55

550
National Park

700
0

550
650
k
reek
Sa

600
Ed
Wil

700
Hayward and Walkandi Peak. Also here are Brachina Creek, which is now winding up Ed

700
wt
1050
col

600
e
e o T 65

oo
ow
THE WALK

650 600 700

ee600 600
ra c 0

1050
Kanalla 100 8St Mary 550

oiw
the foundations of Aroona Homestead, built

500 550
1000
to become one of the Flinders most famous

th
0 k

eC

550
9

700
Edeowie
Falls 00 5 0Peak

1000 650600
1100

650

550550
1050

550
Wi

1050 700
ie Cre
9

650
Cazneaux

600
1150
Gorge 5 600
Day 1: Parachilna Gorge to Aroona Valley (1171m) Cre lpen

1100
ree e

550 r 600
10 0

650
1050
in 1854 for the first pastoralist in the area, gorges. Within 30 minutes you reach a road.

5
Tree

a
600 600
ek a

500 500
k

en
k
k Malloga 00 Tandera Saddle Wilpena

650
650
650

ilp

500
650
44 hours, 16.3km John Hayward. Turn right and walk 100m to the Trezona

1000

650
Bannon

550 C
Reggies

550W
Falls

500 500 500


St Gap 95 Mt Boorong

1050

na
75
Nob M

500
950
0 (1085m) l

reWe550
i

550

550
pe

500500
From the car park, cross the stile and the Over the rise is the pug-and-pine Aroona Trailhead (with water tank). If you fancy Cooinda
aAttunga Bluff(1009m) a

50550550
FINISH
ry Pounde Traile Tr

1100

kil
Camp Pe Wangara To Hawker
Beatrice 00 Outsid

00850
Rockhole StakMary 8Peak Wilpena
id Pound
800Gap InsResort (50km)

100
wide bed of Parachilna Creek to a tributary Hut, where Hans Heysen stayed a number of an early finish, Trezona camping ground

900

650

500
HillPompey Hill(898m)

aC
50
In

00
00
ak

0
00

N
threading south between the Heysen Range times. The Aroona Valley camping ground, stretches out ahead of you.
on your right (west) and the ABC Range on a fantastic, sprawling site at the foot of the Turn left (south) at the trailhead and Turn right onto Yanyanna Walking Track
your left (east). After five minutes cross an- ABC Range, is 100m east of the hut. It has cross through grasslands and over Brachina (joining here the Mawson Trail, an 800km
other stile, turning up the far (easternmost) toilets, drinking water and bins. Gorge Rd. Cutting southeast across the mountain-biking route from Adelaide to
stream of the creek; the closest stream leads bends of a creek you reach Middlesight Blinman), swinging southwest. As the track
to a fenced dead-end. Day 2: Aroona Valley to Yanyanna Hut Water Hut after 30 minutes. The hut has zigzags through a few creeks you will see
The trail switches between the soft creek 67 hours, 24km four bunks, a water tank and the appear- the forlorn ruin of Old Elatina Hut (1 to 1
bed and a vehicle track, but always follows Head east from the camping ground on a ance of a power substation. In the creek hours from Trezona Trailhead) to the west.
the general course of the creek. Ringneck 4WD track, climbing into the ABC Range. beside the hut there is a permanent spring. Just beyond, and betrayed by the greenery,
Lonely Planet Publications
272 M O R E W A L K S K a n g a r o o I s l a n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O R E W A L K S D e e p C re e k C o n s e r v a t i o n Pa r k 273

there is another spring, slightly upstream right onto a foot track, descending to a the Mt Remarkable Gorges walk (p263). Fol- DEEP CREEK CONSERVATION PARK
from where it is marked on maps. creek and then winding into a low run of lowing that route to Sugar Gum Lookout, it Deep Creek is one of the most enticing
After another 1 to 1 hours you reach hills. continues east on fire trails across the Black walking destinations in easy reach of Ad-
Bunyeroo Rd. Turn left and, 400m on, turn The trail swings east, passing between Range and onto the western slopes of Mt elaide. The 4500-hectare park runs along
right into Yanyanna Hut, a corrugated-iron several knolls. As the trail turns south again Remarkable. You can return to Mambray Fleurieu Peninsulas south coast, staring
shelter with a water tank, floor space for you get final views of the Pound, with Mt Creek the same way or, if you have spare across to Kangaroo Island, and includes
mattresses and room outside to throw a Ohlssen Bagge most prominent, and soon wheels, you can make the shorter descent to 20km of the Heysen Trail. From Aaron
few tents. the trail intersects with a 4WD track. Turn Melrose. Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic Creek picnic area you can follow the creek
left and walk 500m into the Wilpena Pound map Melrose covers both routes, though the to the coast (11km) or connect to the
Day 3: Yanyanna Hut to Wilpena camping ground. trail from the war memorial isnt marked. Blowhole Beach track along the Heysen
Pound Resort The Mount Remarkable National Park Sum- Trail. Trig Campground is the other major
56 hours, 21.2km mit Hike brochure, obtainable from the trailhead, offering short, challenging walks
The first 7km of this day is the most rug-
ged of the walk, but it is a doddle thereaf-
MORE WALKS Melrose Caravan Park, has a map sufficient
for the first walk.
to Deep Creek Waterfall and Deep Creek
Cove, or a circuit (10.4km) taking in both.
ter. Start early and you will witness one of KANGAROO ISLAND Information is available at park headquarters
the Flinders signature scenes: dawn over Hanson Bay Dutchmans Stern (%08-8598 0263). Landsmaps 1:50,000 topo-
Bunyeroo Valley. The white-sand beach at Hanson Bay is one A prominent bluff 10km west of Quorn, graphic maps Cape Jervis and Torrens Vale
The trail leaves Yanyanna Hut from of the more idyllic locations on the rugged named for its resemblance to an early cover the park. It is is easily accessed from
the western end of the stockyards. It is an Kangaroo Island coast, and can be accessed Dutch sailing ship, the Dutchmans Sterns Adelaide, though Cape Jervis or Yankalilla
ill-defined path at first but the markers along a walking trail from Kelly Hill Caves. most striking feature is its quartzite es- make closer bases.
are always visible as you climb the round The trail winds past Grassdale Lagoon and carpments. A half-day, 10.5km walk heads
peak south of the hut for a spectacular along South West River to emerge at the through she-oaks and sugar gums, and LINCOLN NATIONAL PARK
view of the Pound: St Mary Peak is central, beachs eastern end. Return the same way past the escarpments, to views that include Investigator Trail
with the Sawtooth running off its west- to complete the 18km walk. Wilpena Pound and Mt Remarkable. You A place of quiet coves, sheltered beaches and
ern shoulder, and Mt Abrupt as stark as For information on the walk, see the can rent out the old homestead (Sun-Thu $70, sheer cliffs, Lincoln National Park, 20km
its name suggests. Climb onto the next DEH office in Kingscote or the Kelly Hill Fri & Sat $80) at the foot of the bluff; it sleeps south of Port Lincoln, is also the location
peak south (for an equally good view), Caves visitor information centre. Carry up to 15 people. Landsmaps 1:50,000 topo- of one of South Australias few viable long-
then drop steeply west down a spur to Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic map graphic map Port Augusta covers the walk. distance trails. The Investigator Trail, named
Bunyeroo Creek. Turn left along the creek Grainger. Gulf Getaways buses from Port Augusta or after Matthew Flinders boat, winds 93km
bed, which soon narrows to a crevice. As Wilpena stop in Quorn but you will have to through the park, making a figure-eight
the valley widens again, stay in the creek Rocky River make your own way out to the peak. loop that includes Pillie Lake, Cape Don-
bed until a sweeping S-bend. Here the trail For an enjoyable day walk encapsulating ington and Taylors Landing. Allow about
takes to the right bank, climbing away and much that is great about Flinders Chase Blinman Pools five days. Information can be obtained at
west onto a shelf above the creek. Follow National Park, a circuit route out of Snake Beginning at Angorichina Tourist Village the Port Lincoln DEH office (%8688 3111) or
the shelf to a creek confluence, crossing Lagoon is recommended. Walk to the cliff (p270), a 12km return walk heads through visitor information centre (%1300 788 378; www
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
straight over to a track junction (1 to 1 tops immediately south of the lagoon, then cypress pines and river red gums to a pair .visitportlincoln.net). Pack the Landsmap 1:50,000
hours from Yanyanna Hut). Turn left and follow the coast north through Sandy Bay of pools, and seasonal waterfalls, on Para- topographic map Jussieu. There are air and
join a 4WD track after 100m. and around Cape Bedout to Breakneck chilna Creek (or Blinman Creek, depend- bus connections to Port Lincoln from Ad-
Climb for 30 minutes along the flanks of River. Follow this inland to West Bay Track, ing on which side of Parachilna Gorge you elaide. Air connection is by Regional Express
some low hills, then veer right onto a foot returning along it to Snake Lagoon. Lands- live). Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic (Rex; %13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au). Bus
track. This climbs more steeply for 400m to maps 1:50,000 topographic map Vennachar map Blinman covers the area, though the connection is by Premier Stateliner (%8415
a crest where a side track to the left climbs covers the area. trail isnt marked. 5555; www.premierstateliner.com.au).
further along the ridge to Bunyeroo Lookout
for your closest look yet at the Pound. FLINDERS RANGES
Return to the crest, where the trail de- Mt Remarkable
scends northwest, switching across ridges The walk to the summit of the Southern
and slipping through a gorge in the ABC Flinders standout peak used to begin from
Range to emerge into the beautiful Wilcolo the Melrose showgrounds, but this track
Valley (30 minutes from the lookout). Cross has been closed due to rock fall. The route
the Wilcolo Creek and continue straight now follows the Heysen Trail from the war Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
on (ignoring a track to the right) to meet memorial above Melrose (accessed from the restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
the Wilcolo Track. Turn left and follow the road to the caravan park). The 12.2km re- only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
track for two to 2 hours, passing beneath turn walk makes for a good day out, though
Mt Abrupt, St Mary Peak and Mt Boorong. a more appealing, two-day approach can be everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
At a gate (and a billboard-sized sign) turn made from Mambray Creek, at the start of the above - Do the right thing with our content.