Lonely Planet Publications

249

South Australia
The driest state on the driest continent on earth: its a maxim all but implanted into the
minds of every South Australian. The capital, Adelaide, receives an average of just 565mm
of rain a year, and it is lush compared to most of the state. Appropriately, South Australia
(SA) has some of the countrys finest semiarid walking.

The states showcase walking feature is the Flinders Ranges, with its ever-changing
colours creating one of the countrys most enticing walking destinations. To many people
the Flinders begin and end inside Wilpena Pound, a circle of peaks that serves as a tourist
bulls-eye, but venture outside the Pound and you quickly discover that it is just a small
piece of a grand line of mountains. Alligator Gorge brings the outback nearer to Adelaide
than you might otherwise have imagined, while the Heysen Highlight will convince you
that the best views of Wilpena are not from within, but from the outside.

Once you have brushed the Flinders dust from your clothes you will find something a
little greener in the Mt Lofty Ranges, at Adelaides edge. On a map, the Yurrebilla Trail is
an amble through suburbia but in reality you will find a corridor of wildlife-rich greenery
that constitutes the citys true parklands.

Continue south, across the Investigator Strait, and a totally different walking experience
beckons. On Kangaroo Islands west coast, limestone cliffs form a dramatic border to a
wilderness crowded with wildlife. Toss a few Southern right whales into the sea and you
could be standing atop the Great Australian Bights celebrated cliffs.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
HIGHLIGHTS
Enjoying dawn views across Wilpena Pound and Bunyeroo Valley as you set out from
Yanyanna Hut (p272) on the Heysen Highlight
Watching tiny Fourth Creek morph into the high waterfalls of the Morialta Conservation
Park (p257)
Splashing through Alligator Gorge (p265) as the cliffs close around you.
Wandering track-free and carefree across the high cliffs of Kangaroo Islands west coast
(p258)
Discovering Wilpena Pounds underworld as you descend into Edeowie Gorge (p268)

TELEPHONE CODE: 08 www.parks.sa.gov.au www.southaustraliantrails.com

 250 S O U T H AU S T R A L I A E n v i r o n m e n t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H AU S T R A L I A I n f o r m a t i o n 251

ENVIRONMENT along the Yurrebilla Trail and all but own INFORMATION Park Fees & Regulations
South Australian lands are the most pro- Kangaroo Island. Maps Entry fees apply for most of the parks in
tected in the country more than 20% of The landscape is dominated by fire- and Decent maps of the state are not difficult this chapter. You can pay the fee on arrival,
the state is covered by conservation parks drought-tolerant plants, inlcuding acacias to find, and a useful complement to any or, if you are going to be around for a while,
of some sort. The Great Victoria, Simpson, (wattles), eucalypts and saltbush. Most ob- of them is Fullers Adelaide & SA Country there are three park passes to consider.
Strzelecki and Sturt Stony Deserts form a vious are the larger eucalypts, especially Towns, with street maps of more than 80 Only the Kangaroo Island passes (p259)
cap across the north and west of the state, the river red gums that grow along water- SA towns. will get you into Flinders Chase National
seemingly held aloft by a mountain range courses throughout the state (especially Landsmap publishes a 1:50,000 map se- Park, but the Multi Park Pass ($63/99 per
that runs from the Strzelecki Desert south along the Heysen Highlight, p269, and in ries that covers areas from the Gammon vehicle without/with camping) covers all
to Cape Jervis all the mainland walks in Edeowie Gorge, p267), the blue gums and Ranges south to Mt Gambier and west to other parks in this chapter, allowing you
this chapter are within this range. candlebarks of the Mt Lofty Ranges, and the Head of Bight all walking areas in this entry for 12 months. The two-month Holi-
As you walk you will see plenty of SAs sugar gums of Kangaroo Island. There is chapter are covered by the series. For details day Pass ($28/44 per vehicle without/with
bird emblem, the magpie, but not its mam- a distinct boundary between the eucalypt- of maps covering individual walks, see the camping), covering the same parks, is the
mal emblem, the southern hairy-nosed dominated communities of the south and Planning sections in the introductions to most useful for visiting walkers. Passes can

wombat. The state is home to four species the acacia communities further north Mt each walk. be obtained online at www.parks.sa.gov.au/
of kangaroo: red, western grey, eastern grey Remarkable National Park (p263) is a good The Map Shop (right) in Adelaide is the parks/visitors/pass/index.htm.
and the euro, while koalas are easily sighted place to see this crossover. best place to purchase maps. See the Planning sections of individual
walks for details of fire restrictions; for in-
South Australia
0
0
200 km
120 miles Books formation on Total Fire Bans, see p24.
NORTHERN TERRITORY To Alice Kulgera Birdsville QUEENSLAND
Lonely Planets Adelaide & South Australia
Guided Walks

Springs
(282km)
Mt Dare Simpson
Desert
is an excellent supplement to the informa-
Witjira Strzelecki
Great Victoria Desert
National Conservation Goyder
Park Desert tion provided in this chapter. Ecotrek (%08-8346 4155; www.ecotrek.com.au) Walks
Park Lagoon
Simpson For a thumbnail look at most of the walk- in Wilpena Pound, Kangaroo Island, the Heysen Trail and
WESTERN AUSTRALIA

A87

ck
Simpson Desert Desert Innamincka Regional
ing options around the state pick up a copy Gammon Ranges.
Tra
ABORIGINAL LAND Marla Regional Reserve
Mintabie Oodnadatta Sturt Stony
Reserve
Desert of the South Australian Trails brochure from Parktrek (%03-9486 7070; www.parktrek.com) A
Lake Eyre
National Park
the South Australian Visitor and Travel nine-day walking tour that includes snippets of each of
Innamincka
Mungeranie
Centre (below). For a scaled-down version, the Flinders Ranges walks in this chapter, plus a Kangaroo

a ck
Oodna

Lake

Roadhouse
Eyre

Tr
Unnamed daWilliam North grab 40 Great South Australian Short Walks, Island walking tour.
Str ze lec ki
Conservation Park Tallaringa tta Creek Strzelecki
Regional
Conservation
which can also be downloaded from www World Expeditions (%1300 720 000; www.worldex
i lle

Park Tr Reserve
Woomera Coober Pedy ac
ds v

Lake Eyre
k
.southaustraliantrails.com. Jim Crinions peditions.com.au) Seven-day walking trip in the Flinders

NEW SOUTH WALES

Prohibited South
Bir

Coward Springs
Stua

ABORIGINAL LAND Area

Marree 40 Adelaide and Country Walks focuses and Gammon Ranges.
s
rt H

ge

Woomera B83
on walks around and south of the capital,
an

Maralinga Prohibited Lyndhurst

wy

GATEWAY
sR

Area
Roxby Lake
Leigh while 50 Real Bushwalks around Adelaide by
de r

ilway A87 Downs Torrens Gammon Ranges

us tr alia Ra Creek National Park George Driscoll has brief descriptions and Adelaide
F lin

Trans- A Glendambo Lake Torrens

Nullarbor Regional ABORIGINAL Tarcoola National Park Lake
mud maps (basic sketch maps) of walks be- %08 / pop 1.4 million
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Woomera

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
LAND 5 Frome
Pl ai n Reserve Yellabinna Regional
Nulla rborBorder
Reserve Lake Gairdner Pimba Parachilna Flinders Ranges To Sydney tween the Barossa Valley and Cape Jervis. Until recently, Adelaide felt like a small
To Perth Village National Park 4 National Park (1150km)
(1319km) Nullarbor Head Penong
Yumbarra Gairdner
Lake Wilpena
Hawker Broken Hill
town disguised as a city. Fuelled now by
A1 Eucla National
Park
of
Bight
Ceduna
Ey Conservation
A87
Quorn Carrieton
Information Sources coffee and juice bars, and with one of Aus-
Cactus Beach re Park Port Hwy Cockburn
Augusta Orroroo
Bar
rier For general state-wide information there tralias busiest cultural calendars, SAs capi-
Hw

Pinkawillinie
Great Australian Bight are several good starting points: tal gives the impression of being a whole lot
y

F lin Conservation Mt Remarkable National Park

Streaky Bay
de
A1
rs Park Whyalla 3 Peterborough
Port
Melrose
Bed & Breakfast Booking Service South Australia more grown-up.
Hw

Venus Bay Eyre Peninsula A32

Cleve Pirie (%1800 227 677; www.bnbbookings.com) Online book-
y

Flinders Island Burra Murr

Elliston
Hw
y Cowell
Port
Clare
Auburn Morgan a
River y ing service for about 100 B&Bs around the state. INFORMATION
Waikerie
Coulta co
ln Wakefield
Spencer ss
a
Berri
Renmark Department for Environment and Heritage (DEH; Friends of the Heysen Trail (%8212 6299; www
y
Va ro
Lin

Coffin Bay e
Tumby Gulf Gawler To Sydney %08-8204 1910; www.parks.sa.gov.au) The national .heysentrail.asn.au; 10 Pitt St; h10.30am-2.30pm Tue &
Ba
ll

National Park Bay Loxton (879km)

Port Lincoln
Yorke ADELAIDE 1
Murray Bridge
VICTORIA parks authority; the website contains pages on all national Thu, 10.30am-1.30pm Wed & Fri) Stocks maps, brochures
Lincoln Peninsula
National
Cape Jervis
B12
Pinnaroo
parks in this chapter. and books on the Heysen Trail and many other paths and
Park Meningie Tailem
Kingscote
Victor Bend South Australian Visitor and Travel Centre parks throughout SA.
Du

2 To
Harbor B1
(%1300 655 276; www.southaustralia.com) Map Shop (%8231 2033; www.mapshop.net.au; 6-10
ke

Melbourne
Keith
s

Flinders Chase Kangaroo Coorong (273km)

Hw

National Park Island National Trails SA (www.southaustraliantrails.com) Government- Peel St) All the books and maps you will need for walks
y

South Australia Maps Park Bordertown A8

Fleurieu
Peninsula Deep Creek Kingston SE Naracoorte run website to promote walking (and other) trails around in SA.
1 Yurrebilla Trail p255 Conservation
2 Flinders Chase Coastal Trek p260 SOUTHERN Park Robe the state. South Australian Visitor and Travel Centre
Prin

Penola
3 Mt Remarkable Gorges p264
OCEAN Beachport To Portland Walking Federation of South Australia (%08-8361 (%1300 655 276; www.southaustralia.com; 18-20 King
ce

4 Wilpena Pound p268

s

Millicent (101km)
5 Heysen Highlight p271 Mt Gambier
Hw
y
2491; www.walkingsa.org.au) Peak body for 40 bushwalking William St) Useful for general enquiries but not flush with
Port MacDonnell clubs; the website contains a number of walk suggestions. walking information.
 252 S O U T H AU S T R A L I A A d e l a i d e
SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT
There is a gaggle of equipment stores
Paddy Pallin (%8232 3155), Mountain Designs
(%8232 3155), Annapurna (%8232 3155), Scout
Outdoor Centre (%8223 5544) and Flinders Camp-
ing (%8223 1913) at the western end of Run-
dle St. Woolworths (86 Rundle Mall) is the most
central supermarket, while you can pick up
scroggin (trail mix of snacks, often consist-
ing of fruit, nuts and chocolate) items from
the Central Market (btwn Grote & Gouger Sts; h7am-
5.30pm Mon-Thu, 7am-9pm Fri, 7am-3pm Sat).
SLEEPING & EATING
Adelaide Caravan Park (%8363 1566; www.adelaide
caravanpark.com.au/adelaide.html; 46 Richmond St, Hack-
ney; powered sites for 2 $27, cabins $80-95, units $100-130;
s) is on the banks of the River Torrens,
2km northeast of the city centre. It has
plenty of grass but not for camping on;
thats what the gravel is for.
My Place (%8221 5299; www.adelaidehostel.com
.au; 257 Waymouth St; dm $21, d & tw with TV $55;i)
is as welcoming as the name suggests, with
the luxury of inner-spring mattresses, free
use of bikes, a DVD library and a selection
of video games. There is a sauna in which to
sweat out those walking aches and a weekly
city tour if you are new in town.
With 245 beds, the Adelaide Central YHA
(%8414 3010; www.yha.com.au; 135 Waymouth St; dm/d
from $23/60; ai) can sleep a population
larger than many SA towns. It has a large
communal area with table-tennis and pool
tables and views over Light Sq, plus, an in-
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
dustrial-sized kitchen, free DVDs in the cosy
TV room and an attached travel agency.
The rooms at Festival City Motel (%8212
7877; ecfestival@chariot.net.au; cnr North Tce & Bank St;
s/d/tw incl breakfast $90/110/115; a) are furnished
a little like a retirement home, but they
are immaculately clean and directly across
from the train station. Ask about standby
rates. Also across from the train station is
the Strathmore Hotel (%8238 2900; www.strath
.com.au; 129 North Tce; d incl breakfast from $115; a), a
one-stop travellers shop with an attached
caf, restaurant, bar, and attractive reno-
vated rooms with all the mod cons.
Directors Studios (%8213 2500; www.savillesuites
.com.au; 259 Gouger St; d/studio from $100/120; a) has
unfussy but spacious rooms handy to the
central bus station. Studios have kitchenette
with microwave and toaster. The associated
Directors Hotel has slightly cheaper rooms.
www.lonelyplanet.com
If you have come to town with your
walking appetite already fitted, the Cumber-
land Arms (205 Waymouth St; mains $9-16; %lunch &
dinner Mon-Fri) is among your best bets plate-
sized schnitzels are at the cheapest end of
the menu.
If the Adelaide plain has you craving
mountains, the Himalayan theme at Everest
(187 Rundle St; mains $13-18; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner),
set among the equipment stores, will appeal.
The pastas and risottos are good.
At Amalfi Pizzeria Ristorante (29 Frome St; pizzas
$11-20, mains $15-22; hlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat)
you can join the city suits for superior pizza
and pasta in the fashionable East End din-
ing strip.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
Adelaide airport (%8308 9211; www.aal.com.au) is
7km west of the city.
Qantas (%13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au), Virgin
Blue (%13 67 89; www.virginblue.com.au) and Jetstar
(%13 15 38; www.jetstar.com.au) operate flights
between Adelaide and other capital cities as
well as major centres such as Alice Springs,
the Gold Coast, Cairns and Canberra. Sky-
link (%8332 0528; www.skylinkadelaide.com; adult/child
$7.50/2.50) runs shuttles between the city and
the airport (via the Keswick interstate train
terminal).
Bus
Adelaides central bus station (101-111 Franklin St)
contains terminals and ticket offices for all
major interstate and statewide services. For
bus timetables see www.bussa.com.au. Grey-
hound Australia (%13 14 99; www.greyhound.com.au)
has direct services to Melbourne ($55, 10
hours), Sydney ($125, 24 hours) and Alice
Springs ($235, 19 hours), while Firefly
Express (%1300 730 740; www.fireflyexpress.com.au)
operates services to/from Melbourne ($55,
10 hours) and Sydney ($110, 23 hours).
Premier Stateliner (%8415 5555; www.premierstate
liner.com.au) is the main operator for destina-
tions within SA.
Car
The following companies can provide you
with a hire car. Avis, Budget, Delta Europ-
car, Hertz, Rent-a-Bomb and Thrifty also
have offices at the airport.
Airport Rent-A-Car (%1800 331 033; www.airport
rentacar.com.au; Adelaide airport)
www.lonelyplanet.com
Apex (%1800 777 779; www.apexrentacar.com.au; 969
Port Rd, Cheltenham)
Avis (%8410 5727; www.avis.com.au; 136 North Tce)
Budget (%8418 7300; www.budget.com.au; 274 North Tce)
Delta Europcar (%8114 6350; www.deltaeuropcar
.com.au; 142 North Tce)
Hertz (%8231 2856; www.hertz.com.au; 233 Morphett St)
Rent-a-Bomb (%13 15 53; www.rentabomb.com.au)
Offices in New South Wales, Victoria & Queensland.
Thrifty (%8410 8977; www.thrifty.com.au; 23 Hindley St)
Train
The interstate train terminal (Railway Tce, Keswick)
is southwest of the city centre. From Ad-
elaide, trains travel to Melbourne, Perth,
Sydney, Alice Springs and Darwin, with all
services operated by Great Southern Railway
(%13 21 47; www.gsr.com.au).
ADELAIDE REGION
YURREBILLA TRAIL
Duration 3 days
Distance 54km
Difficulty easymoderate
Start Belair railway station
Finish Ambers Gully
Nearest Town Adelaide (p251)
Transport train, bus
Summary Discover Adelaides truly wild side
as you walk between a series of national and
conservation parks overlooking the city.
Completed in 2003, the Yurrebilla Trail
provides Adelaide with an asset possessed
by few other major cities: a multiday walk-
ing track on its very doorstep. As you wan-
der through Waite Conservation Reserve
on Day 2 of this walk you will be just 10km
from the city, yet you are more likely to see
kangaroos than people. The trail traces the
line of the Mt Lofty Ranges the bump in
the ironed shirt of Adelaide linking seven
national and conservation parks, including
arguably Adelaides greatest natural asset,
Morialta Conservation Park. You can walk
the trails entirety or use the suburban bus
network to sample it in sections. There are
trail markers (and distances) every 500m
along the route.
Accommodation can be tricky if you vary
your stops from those described here (see
A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l 253
the boxed text on p254). Accommodation
in the Adelaide Hills is a fluid thing, how-
ever, so it is worth checking with the South
Australian Visitor and Travel Centre (p251)
to see if any new options spring up.
PLANNING
When to Walk
As it is so near to Adelaide, this is the sort
of walk that allows you to sit back and wait
for a decent burst of weather, whatever the
time of year. To catch Morialtas waterfalls
at their finest, you will want to come shortly
after a decent rain, which is most likely be-
tween May and October.
Maps
DEHs brochure-like 1:20,000 Yurrebilla
Trail Bushwalking Map is purpose-designed
for this walking route. Landsmaps 1:50,000
topographic maps Adelaide and Noarlunga
cover the area but do not show the trail.
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
See Adelaide (p251).
Belair National Park
Just 1.5km from the Belair railway station,
the Belair National Park Caravan Park (%08-8278
3540; Upper Sturt Rd, Belair; unpowered/powered sites for
2 $18/24, cabins $55-85) has a bush setting en-
joyed by campers as well as possums, roos
and koalas. The kiosk is good for a starting
snack but little more.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
Suburban trains depart the Adelaide rail-
way station every 30 minutes or so (hourly
on weekends) for Belair (35 to 50 minutes).
To return to the city from Ambers Gully,
walk west for 1km along Gorge Rd to the
corner of Coulls Rd and take bus Nos 178
or 578 (30 minutes).
THE WALK
Day 1: Belair Railway Station to
Brownhill Creek Caravan Park
23 hours, 9.5km
The trail begins on the southern side of the
railway station, passing beneath the large
The National Park archway to enter Belair
National Park, SAs first national park.
At the information board, follow the
path east along the fence-line, through a
stand of sugar gums and across Sir Edwin
 254 A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l 255

200 22550 400

SU

20 2
10 HOPE 30

150
200

350
10
0 0
Ave. Take the path straight ahead and de- Workanda Track. Turn left, contouring 1 : 120,000 0 30 km

0
Yurrebilla Trail
ADELAIDE HO 35

10
VALLEY

D
200

0
SO 0T
AW N

300
0
NFIELD GENERAL LZ RESERVOIR50m Contour Interval
100 M
2 miles
scend to Perroomba Creek, turning right around the hills and ignoring side trails to

RA
CEMETERY AND RSDu

30 50
d il orge Rd

2
IL
CREMATORIUM Tra

Hampstead
d RD

250
G
onto Brady Gully Track. Veer right again merge into the Wilyawa Tack. Follow this to ns

ho
ST orre FINISH

tR
Rd

on
lz R d
s rT 20 O
EA Maw 0 ER TG

Eas
st Ambers Sugarloaves
after 100m to recross Sir Edwin Ave, turn- the park boundary at Sheoak Rd (one to 1

ve
Ea H Ruin Walking Trail V
RT RI MA

Ri
rt h

30
Suga r l
rth O W

0
ing left onto a path that rounds Playford Lake, hours from the railway station).

No
No N

Da

400
Rd
ER Three oa

er
rle
ow 250
which is rimmed with gums and populated Walk west on Sheoak Rd for 50m, turning W Sugarloaves v To Cudlee

yR
Muller Rd LOL Thorndon Park Athelstone Creek (11km)

es
Black Hill

d
GENCY RD Reservoir 3

400
Trac k
Conservation
by ducks. Cross the small inlet stream to right into Pony Ridge Rd. At the roads end, 50

ay
2 Park

200
sw
a road junction. Turn left along the road, continue straight along the walking track,

Bu

Newton Rd
Black Hill (467m)
rry

0
0

st

35
then almost immediately right at the next and descend steeply to a road beside Brown- ea Campbelltown Q u a ck 45 2

0
rt h

30
No 2300 Tra
te R 50
road junction, turning left again onto a foot hill Creek. Turn left, walking along the road o nt a cu d 40

100
M 0

As
35

co
Fox Dam 0
track that winds east alongside Workanda for 1km. At the entrance to Brownhill Creek

50
Av
South

Saint Bernards Rd
e
Fo Rostrevor Mt Lofty
Creek. Ignore the first track junction and Recreation Park a narrow track leaves the road en
s ur
th
300
Ranges
Cre

rr
continue over the bridge, turning right to the right, crossing the creek and following

0
To
ek

35
Payneham

e r
Deep View (489m)
straight after. Walk about 100m to a set of its true left bank. At the charmingly named

Riv
Lookout

TRAIL

500
Moo
signboards and take the path to the right. Manure Pits once used to store fertiliser to Eagles Morialta res

Rd
Nest Lookout Conservation Rd
Park Crystal r
Turn right again after 100m (getting dizzy try to prevent pollution of the river recross

SEN
Crysta
ysta
tal
al Hill
ill

m
First Falls lD
ryC l onia

ha
Magill Third Sanct
San ctuary
tua
uaaary

H EY
o

ne
Second Falls
yet?) you are now paralleling the main the creek, following the road briefly before Falls N

20
Pa

0
DAY 3

or
Botantic

Hackn
Echo Track, which you should see just a few returning to a track that switches to and fro

to

i a l Dr
Morialta

25

450
Park 400
Magill Rd

n
Rd

Su
Barns
ce it

ey Rd
metres to your left. between banks. One hour from Sheoak Rd m

m
hT m 600

o l on
it R
oErt d Su
m

45
TNC
At the foot tracks end, turn left and im- you rejoin the road (by a picnic area), cross-

Third Cre
n S u mm it

0
H Kensington Ol d N o r t o nC Norton 0

De q u
rto Summit 55
O RT

Rd
Kensington
e tt Norwood Gardens 400 No

400
mediately right onto the Echo Track after ing a bridge and walking 500m to grassy

C res
ob

500
400

L
ev 300 White ld

0
ille 35 eth

50
0 450 O

0
Rock e
Brownhill Creek Caravan Park (%08-8271 4824; Botanic Tce Rid nt

25

c
making more turns than a populist politician k

al R
Wakefield Rd Dr

e
Quarry ge
Gardens

FULLARTON RD

Portrush Rd
Tr

d
400
a ck 50
to here, the route straightens out for a while. www.brownhillcreekcaravanpark.com.au; Brownhill Creek ADELAIDE 300 Giles 0

Fir
(52m) Ruins

Hutt St

Lob th a

550
st
At Echo Tunnel the track burrows through Rd, Mitcham; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $20/25, cabins Victoria Park Cr
250
550

d s ll
eek

R d Hi
C
Racecourse oac

e
0 0 Horsnell Gully
30 35 h
a hillside beneath the AdelaideMelbourne $80-130), strung out along the creek. Quarry Rd
Conservation l Rd Ashton

30
25
Park

o
35
0
0

Wo
25
railway. Detouring around a side gully, you

FULLARTON RD

450
0 450 400
Rd
reek e
Day 2: Brownhill Creek Caravan Park to

350 0
W
return to Workanda Creek beside its lower nd C dg

30
400
Seco Ri

ate
350 To Lobethal
en 550 (17km)
Crystal Hill Sanctuary Gre hi

rf
0
waterfall. It is an impressive bit of rock, ll 600 45

a
Gl Gu 45

ll R
en 0
though you need to be here soon after rain 67 hours, 26km 550

d
lly
Glenunga

Rd
Win Cleland 600 hill Rd

IL
sm
e S

Fullarton Rd
to see of water. Ignore the path across the From the caravan park entrance veer right hant Conservation

en
Summertown r e

on

TR
y T Park Pil box Tr G

d
rac

ENrd
a ck
top of the falls and continue southeast along up the Peter Nelson Walking Trail, taking

Rd

mEYmSit
Glen ack

k
Mount Osmond
600y Tr

550
Osmond
Echo Track to a junction with the wider the wooden steps up to McElligotts Quarry, for

fty SituHrd
Golf Course Cleland t
an

Rd
Wildlife Sh

600
e

Lomm
in Mt Bonython (610m)
Cross Rd

c adilly
35
0 300 Chinamans Park W (680m) (611m)

MtSu
Hut Ruins 550

Pic
700fty
YURREBILLAS ACCOMMODATION CURSE Waite
Bilba Tr
ack 500

Mt LSoufmt y Summit RdMt Lo

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Conservation Mt Lofty(711m)
Reserve Mt Lofty
Carrick Mt
When the Yurrebilla Trail opened in September 2003, it seemed a masterly piece of accommoda- Eagle on Cottage

d
0
50

R
Hill the Hill 400 YHA

Bark e E
Old Belair Rd

HEY
od
0 Alternative

South
tion planning. On the first day you walked 17.5km to Eagle on the Hill Hotel for a bed with a McElligott's 350 50

wo
Torrens 40 4 Route T 00
Heysen rail
Eagle 5

SEN
Quarry

rR

rd
0

he

00
view. Day 2 was an easy 16km into any one of three B&Bs in ever-so-cute Norton Summit, leaving Park l yt
B (312m) 30 Quarry a std

mit
6
Manure Pits ern F Piccadilly

TRA
a neat 20.5km to conclude the trail on Day 3. Within two years, Eagle on the Hill Hotel and all

wy
45

IL
Brownhill Creek DAY 2 50 0

ty
Caravan Park 0
three Norton Summit B&Bs had closed. Suddenly, the user-friendly Yurrebilla Trail was as much

Old Belair Rd
l a i rRd

Lof

0
50
Brownhill Creek
an exercise in logistics as walking, committing walkers to at least one long walking day.

Mt
Recreation Park Crafers To Hahndorf
20
Be

Sheoa 40 STIRLING (8km)

0

Sir Edwin
k Rd 3
There are now few ways to vary the itinerary described here. The main alternative is to stay in START 300 Belair 50 0
500
250 l C ree550
k S
Belair ba
300 National
400 nh il500
500500 550 50 E ao
the YHA cottages below Mt Lofty Summit and outside Morialta Conservation Park. m s

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400
Pinera o
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PerC 450 Br Fw

400
re ack Lower ADELAIDE 500
M ai n R d
MELBOURNE

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tur
Ave
Playford Mount
A couple of off-track B&Bs provide another option. If you turn right at Greenhill Rd on Day 2, it 30
0 Ech
Waterfall
RAILWAY M
Carripook

Upper S
Lake a r Lofty
kand C eek t Ba r
rk e
is about 1km into Summertown, where you will find Summertown Homestead (%08-8390 0497;

W
r o Jibilla
Wo Old r kand a

Rd
250 5 0 0
Belair National Park Government Echo Track Upper Waterfall To Mylor 450
www.summertownbnb.com.au; 4 Cummins Dr; d $240). On reaching Lobethal Rd near the end of Day 2, Caravan Park House Tunnel
BELAIR PARK GOLF COURSE
(4km)
450 450
you can also turn right and walk for 2km to the Chapel B&B (%08-8390 1792; www.thechapel.com
.au; Lobethal Rd, Ashton; d $210), in a converted chapel. The walk along Lobethal Rd, however, will be views over the city and the coast at Glenelg. which kangaroos exist in their natural habi-
neither pleasant nor particularly safe because the road is narrow and heavily trafficked. The trail continues north from beside the tat. Inside the reserve the trail swings onto a
It is also quite possible to base yourself in Adelaide and commute by bus each morning. Buses quarry, along an unsealed road. rough vehicle track and into a hollow below
run between the city and Eagle on the Hill (bus Nos 163 to 166), Summertown (bus 820) and At the entrance to Brownhill Reserve a large water tank. Turn right and head
Morialta Conservation Park (bus 102 stops within 1km of the main car park). Travel times are turn left through a gate. Below, you will see upvalley before zigzagging back west to a
around 30 to 40 minutes. There is also a connector bus into Cleland Wildlife Park (bus No 163 the mottled roof of Carrick Hill mansion. viewpoint beyond a few she-oaks (one hour
or 165, changing to bus 823 at Crafers). Cross through a stile into Waite Conserva- from the caravan park). The view incorpo-
tion Reserve, the nearest point to the city at rates almost the entire Adelaide plain.
 256 A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com A D E L A I D E R E G I O N Yu r re b i l l a T r a i l 257

The trail now turns its back on the city,
heading east through grey box woodland
and olive trees. Turn right onto a faint ve-
hicle track, making a short climb to exit the
reserve. Take the track to the left and you
will soon see Mt Lofty Summits white ob-
elisk and its three ugly sisters: the TV tow-
ers that are one of Adelaides less attractive
landmarks. Pass through a gate and, about
200m on, turn left through another gate to
re-enter Waite Conservation Reserve. Its a
fleeting return, as the trail soon heads back
out through a gate. Follow the trail towards
the farmhouse. Turn left onto the driveway
and walk up to Mt Barker Rd, turning right
and walking 30 to 45 minutes along the
roads bike lane: this was once the main road
into Adelaide, now its a ghost road virtually
ceded to cyclists, motorbikers and walkers.
About 100m past the abandoned Eagle on
the Hill Hotel, turn left through a stile into
Cleland Conservation Park. Turn left in another
200m onto a narrower track that winds
down through stringybark forest. Continue
straight on at the next junction, heading
upvalley past the ruins of Chinamans Hut and
following the signs for Mt Lofty Summit.
Watch for some finger-like coral ferns in a
rock face beside the track, then cross over
the footbridge to reach a track junction.
The Yurrebilla Trail follows the path
signposted Wildlife Park for 500m to the
park entrance road (the alternative route
turns right, see right). If you fancy cuddling
a koala, turn left and follow the road into
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
After rounding the first bend in the road,
take the track to the right. Turn right again
immediately after the phytophthora station
and continue through stringybark forest.
When you come to a track junction 500m
on, turn right and descend towards the vis-
ible tiers of White Rock Quarry, passing
through some of the thickest bushland of
the walk.
Cross a blackberry-choked stream and
turn right, heading upvalley to Giles Ruins
(one to 1 hours from Greenhill Rd). The
first building was a workers quarters, the
second was the homestead. Here, the trail
begins climbing away from the creek, as-
cending to a ridge, where it turns right. In 15
minutes the trail peels away left onto a lesser
track to reach Woods Hill Rd. Turn left, then
right onto a narrow sealed road after 50m.
Look for a faint foot track that heads away
right, doubling back to again meet Woods
Hill Rd. Here, the trail turns back on itself,
descending to Lobethal Rd. (This last section
of trail is through private property and is
closed from December through March and
on days of Total Fire Ban. At these times,
walk along Woods Hill Rd to Lobethal Rd,
where you rejoin the trail.)
Turn left and walk along the road,
turning into the second road on the left
(Crescent Dr) for a quieter and safer entry
into Norton Summit (one hour from Giles
Ruins), which is basically a pub masquer-
ading as a town the Scenic Hotel (pub meals
$11-17, restaurant meals $21-30; hbreakfast Sat & Sun,
TRAILBLAZER
For one weekend each October, the Yurrebilla Trail hosts not the usual few hikers but hundreds
of runners and walkers competing in the Trailblazer Challenge (www.recreationsa.org). Modelled
on the successful Oxfam Trailwalker events, which began in Hong King as a training program
for Gurkha soldiers, competitors walk or run 18km, 25km, 50km or 100km. The 50km event has
a cut-off time of 20 hours, with the 100km event to be completed within 40 hours winning
teams complete the 100km in around 16 hours.
The course begins in the Adelaide parklands and follows the River Torrens to Ambers Gully,
swinging onto the Yurrebilla Trail and following it for 25km into Cleland Conservation Park. It
then strikes out through Mylor and the Kuitpo Forest.
onto a spur, you begin a 250m climb to Falls) and a scene that includes the drudg-
Mt Lofty Summit. About 400m below the ery of the Adelaide suburbs in one direction
summit you pass the Mt Lofty Cottage YHA and wonderful First and Second Falls in
(% 08-8414 3000; www.yha.com.au; cottage $50-70). the other.
Turn left at the junction here, then up the Turn up the hill (through the phytoph-
narrower track to the right to reach Mt Lofty thora station), rounding the ridge and
Summit, where there is a restaurant (mains $25- climbing to a smooth track. About 2km
30; hdinner Wed-Sun), caf (mains $8-16), gift shop from Deep View Lookout, you reach a track
and views across the Adelaide plain and junction. If you take a hard right here and
Fleurieu Peninsula. follow Moores Rd for 2.5km you come to
Retrace your steps past the YHA cottage Morialta Walks YHA (%08-8414 3000; www.yha.com
to a track junction 650m (and signposted .au; cottage $50-70). Take the trail to the left,
as such) from the summit. Turn right and leaving the Heysen Trail and descending
follow this track through a gate, crossing (steeply at times) along a spur. U-turning
the sealed road and descending to meet the back past Fox Dam, the track makes an un-
main trail on the Wine Shanty Track. dulating 1.5km descent to Montacute Rd.
Turn left and walk 1.5km along the road to
Day 3: Crystal Hill Sanctuary to Quarry Track (1 to 1 hours from Deep
Ambers Gully View Lookout).
45 hours, 18.5km Turn right onto Quarry Track, enter-
A few metres beyond the sanctuary, turn left ing Black Hill Conservation Park, and begin
and cross through a series of stiles. Across to climb. One short section is the steepest

Cleland Wildlife Park (adult/child $13/8); if you can
survive without it, turn right, then left at the
water tanks. Turn immediately right again
onto Wine Shanty Track. In 500m an eroded
track comes down from the right; you have
now joined the mighty Heysen Trail.
For the next hour the Wine Shanty Track
winds through gullies below Mt Bonython,
ignoring all tracks to the right. Finally, you
do turn right at Pillbox Track, climbing and
leaving Cleland Conservation Park onto Mt
Lofty Summit Rd. Turn left, walking beside
the road to Greenhill Rd. Cross this busy
road and pick up the track again at the bus
stop, walking what feels like a full circle to
meet Ridge Rd.
Follow Ridge Rd north (left), leaving it to
briefly wind in behind a radar tower. About
500m on, turn left into Coach Rd, following
it up to Horsnell Gully Conservation Park.
lunch & dinner daily) is an Adelaide institution,
its balcony famed for its city views.
Turn right onto Colonial Dr, branching
right onto a track that climbs above and
away from the road to the stone Morialta
Barns, once part of an estate belonging to
a state premier. The track swings back to
Colonial Dr, following it for 1.3km to Crys-
tal Hill Sanctuary (%08-8390 1111; partnerz@bigpond
.net.au; dm from $25, cabins $80), which has farm
cabins on one side of the road and a reno-
vated stone cottage on the other.
ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: MT LOFTY SUMMIT
1 hour, 3km
Mt Lofty Summit is Adelaides lookout of
lookouts, and it is a worthwhile (if steep)
diversion from the main trail. At the Bilba
Track junction, turn right along a stream,
following it to a small waterfall. Turning
the creek, turn left onto the old vehicle
track, walking along the boundary of Mo-
rialta Conservation Park, the most impressive
and rugged of the Mt Lofty Ranges parks.
At the junction with Third Falls Track, turn
left and then immediately right, dropping
steeply to the creek (30 to 45 minutes from
Crystal Hill). Third Falls are 50m upstream,
tumbling over a 20m-high rock platform.
Continuing downstream, stay left at a
junction to head through she-oaks and be-
neath rock walls that offer Adelaides best
rock climbing. Pass by (but not across) the
bridge over Second Falls. Continue for 300m
to Eagles Nest Lookout, peering down onto
First Falls, which looks like a stray piece of
Kimberley country. From the final lookout
point take the higher tack that heads away
right, winding around the escarpment to
Deep View Lookout (45 minutes from Third
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
ground you will have encountered for the
past three days cheer yourself up by en-
joying the final view back to Adelaide. The
trail ascends to a short side track leading
away left to the viewless summit of Black
Hill (one to 1 hours from Montacute
Rd). Continue northeast on the main trail
to a green tank, where you turn left onto
Sugarloaves Track. Stay on this track as it
contours above Ghost Tree Gully and up
into a grassy saddle between the knolls of
the Three Sugarloaves.
Turn left atop the saddle, staying with
Sugarloaves Track. In a few minutes turn
right at Sugarloaves Walking Trail and de-
scend into Ambers Gully. Pass a usually
dry waterfall to meet Main Ridge Track,
turning left before Ambers Ruin to re-enter
suburbia and the trails end (45 minutes to
one hour from Black Hill).
 258 K A N G A R O O I S L A N D F l i n d e r s C h a s e C o a s t a l T re k
KANGAROO ISLAND
Australias second-largest island (4416 sq
km) has plenty to offer walkers, including
some of the best wildlife encounters in the
country. The showpiece for anyone on foot
is Flinders Chase National Park, gazetted
in 1919 and now covering around 17% of
the island. Here, you can walk for a few
minutes to view platypuses or you can
amble for a few days in the company of
kangaroos, koalas and goannas. It quickly
becomes apparent why Matthew Flinders
named the place after a resident marsupial
(even if only because his crew killed and ate
31 of the things).
ENVIRONMENT
Connected to the mainland at various
times, Kangaroo Islands land bridge last
submerged around 9500 years ago, creat-
ing an isolation that has led to much spe-
cies variation between the island and the
mainland. The island has 14 endemic bird
subspecies, one endemic mammal species
(Kangaroo Island dunnart) and 46 endemic
plant species. The Kangaroo Island kan-
garoo is a subspecies of the western grey
kangaroo, and is smaller and more solid;
tiger snakes here can be entirely black; and
even a bird as common and widespread as
the New Holland honeyeater has different
wing and beak sizes to mainland birds. As
you walk, keep particular watch for glossy
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
black-cockatoos, Australias rarest cocka-
too, with only an estimated 250 existing in
the world it is possible, though not likely,
that you may spot one around Ravine des
Casoars.
PLANNING
Books
Kangaroo Island on Foot by former Flinders
Chase ranger Jody Gates describes 23 walks
throughout the island. Natural History of
Kangaroo Island, edited by Margaret Dav-
ies, Charles Twidale and Michael Tyler, is
a good resource for delving further into the
islands natural nuts and bolts.
Information Sources
Kangaroo Island Gateway visitor information
centre (%08-8553 1185; www.tourkangarooisland.com
.au) is just outside Penneshaw. The DEH
www.lonelyplanet.com
office in Kingscote (opposite) can supply
information on walks around the island,
though queries about Flinders Chase are bet-
ter directed to the Flinders Chase visitor informa-
tion centre (%08-8559 7235; www.environment.sa.gov
.au/parks/flinderschase; Rocky River).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Rex (%13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au) and
QantasLink (% 13 13 13; www.qantas.com.au) fly
daily between Adelaide and Kangaroo Is-
land ($70, 30 minutes). QantasLink also
flies direct from Melbourne to Kangaroo
Island on Saturday and Sunday ($230, two
hours).
SeaLink (%13 13 01; www.sealink.com.au) oper-
ates a ferry service across the Backstairs
Passage between Cape Jervis and Penne-
shaw (45 minutes) up to eight times daily.
Cars cost $65 to $80, with each passenger
(including driver) an extra $40.
GETTING AROUND
Budget (%08-8555 3133; www.budget.com.au) and
Hertz (% 08-8553 2390; www.hertz.com.au) have
cars available at the airport; the latter also
has cars available at the Penneshaw ferry
terminal.
FLINDERS CHASE COASTAL TREK
Duration 2 days
Distance 35km
Difficulty moderate
Start/Finish Ravine des Casoars car park
Nearest Town Kingscote (opposite)
Transport private
Summary Wander the isolated cliffs of Kang-
aroo Islands west coast, where the dramatic
geography is tempered by the tropical colour-
ing of the ocean.
Following Kangaroo Islands westernmost
coast, this walk heads across limestone cliffs
that rise up to 100m above the sea, pass-
ing isolated rocky coves to the welcoming
beach at West Bay.
Though the walk is rated moderate, it is
very much an outing in two parts. Day 1,
along the cliffs, is moderatedemanding,
crossing ankle-twisting, fractured lime-
stone, while Day 2 is no more than a stroll
along a closed vehicle track. The bush along
this track is pleasant, though it is shaded
www.lonelyplanet.com K A N G A R O O I S L A N D
by the memories of the exhilarating previ-
ous day.
If you have two cars and an extra day,
you can avoid the inland walk by continu-
ing south along the coast to the lighthouse
at Cape de Couedic. On the second day,
walk to Snake Lagoon camping ground
(20km), then to Cape de Couedic (16km)
on the third day.
PLANNING
When to Walk
The islands climate is milder than the main-
land in January and February the average
maximum temperature is around 23.5C
(compared to 28.5C in Adelaide), making
summer walking more feasible. Rainfall is
slightly lower than in Adelaide and is con-
centrated between about May and August.
Couple this with biting winds and the west
coast can be unpleasant in winter. Numer-
ous wildflowers bloom from late July to No-
vember, while March, April, October and
November offer the best combinations of
comfortable temperatures and low rainfall.
Maps
Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic maps
Borda and Vennachar cover the area the
walk along the cliffs isnt shown since it is
not on marked trails. The Day 2 route is
marked on the maps.
Permits & Regulations
Overnight walkers in Flinders Chase Na-
tional Park must obtain a trip intentions
form and discuss their plans with a ranger.
Forms can be downloaded from www
.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/flinders
chase/visit/index.htm, or picked up at the
Flinders Chase visitor information centre.
Entry to the park is $7.50 per person and
walkers camping is $4 per night. There are
also two Kangaroo Island park passes to
consider: the Kangaroo Island Tour Pass (adult/
child $43/25) gives unlimited entry to Flinders
Chase for a year, plus tours at Seal Bay,
Kelly Hill Caves, and Cape Borda and Cape
Willoughby lighthouses; the South Coast Ticket
(adult/child $28/17) allows entry into the park,
plus tours at Seal Bay and Kelly Hill Caves.
Camping along the described route is
only permitted at West Bay, and bookings
are required. Fires are prohibited, so fuel
stoves must be used.
F l i n d e r s C h a s e C o a s t a l T re k 259
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
Kingscote
%08 / pop 1400
SAs first settlement may be Kangaroo Is-
lands main town but it is still a sleepy sea-
side place. It is also the closest town to this
walk, despite being more than 100km away.
It is the place to pick up supplies, even if it
is more practical to stay nearer to Flinders
Chase. The useful brochure Bushwalking in
Kangaroo Island Parks can be picked up at
the DEH office (%8553 2381; 37 Dauncey St).
Grassy Kingscote Nepean Bay Tourist Park
(%8553 2394; www.kingscotetouristpark.com.au; First St;
unpowered/powered sites for 2 $20/23, cabins without/with
bathroom from $50/85) is in Brownlow, roughly
3km from town, one street inland from a
seaweed-carpeted beach.
KI Central Accommodation (%8553 2787; 19 Mur-
ray St; dm/d $20/50) looks a bit like a doss house
and is a good place to prepare for or relax
from a walk.
Seaview Motel (%8553 2030; www.seaview.net
.au; 51 Chapman Tce; guesthouse s/d $65/75, motel s/d
$125/135) has great bay views, with rooms
that range from boarding schoolstyle to
the classically furnished spa suite. There is a
restaurant (mains $17-33; hdinner) on site.
Bella (54 Dauncey St; lunch $8-15, dinner $15-24;
hlunch & dinner) offers a rare mix of fine
dining and greasy take-out. You can dine
on pan-fried King George whiting or carry
home a barbecued chook.
Ozone Hotel (Kingscote Tce; breakfast $8, mains $13-
30; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) has a typical pub
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
menu brightened with local produce such
as marron and garfish.
Foodland (Commercial St) is the best of the
supermarket options.
Flinders Chase National Park
%08
The closest accommodation to the trail-
head is at Harveys Return camping ground (sites
for vehicle $8), which has toilets and a water
tank. Cape Borda Lighthouse, 3km west,
has three cottages: Flinders Light Lodge ($125),
Hartley Hut ($80) and Woodward Hut (per person
$16). Rocky River camping ground offers
showers but is by the visitor information
centre, around 50km from the trailhead.
There are a couple of private options at
the parks edge. Flinders Chase Farm (%8559
7223; chillers@internode.on.net; West End Hwy; dm/cabins
$20/50, r $70) has a wing of motel-style rooms,
 260 K A N G A R O O I S L A N D F l i n d e r s C h a s e C o a s t a l T re k www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S E n v i r o n m e n t 261

two tiny cabins and an attractive hostel with
a woolshed theme. The open-air kitchen
has a vinyl collection that ranges from
Meatloaf to Mouskouri. Kangaroo Island Wil-
derness Retreat (%8559 7275; www.kiwr.com; South
Coast Rd; eco lodge r $140, d $200; mains $28-33;ai)
is set in 113 hectares, and has resident wal-
labies, rooms set around a native garden
and its own 30-minute bushwalk through
sugar gums, banksias and tea-trees.
Food options at this end of the island are
as rare as the glossy black-cockatoo. Chasers
Cafe (Flinders Chase visitor information centre; burgers $13;
h9am-5pm) will see you through the day,
but the restaurant at Kangaroo Island Wil-
derness Retreat is only for guests.
GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK
From Kingscote drive 75km along Playford
Hwy to the junction with West End Hwy.
Continue straight along Playford Hwy
(unsealed now) for another 27km. Turn
left just beyond Harveys Return camp-
ing ground and drive 6km to the road end
at the Ravine des Casoars car park. From
Rocky River join West End Hwy, turning
west onto the unsealed section of Playford
Hwy after 23km.
THE WALK
Day 1: Ravine des Casoars to West Bay
56 hours, 19km
From the southern end of the car park, past
is 15km away to the south. There is no set
trail, simply follow the cliffs all the way,
across fractured limestone, keeping within
about 15m of the cliff edge where the mal-
lee scrub is thinnest. You will often find a
trodden path of sorts as a guide. It is slow,
undulating walking but the coastal views
are such that you wont want to hurry any-
way. Feral goats and the small Rosenbergs
goanna are commonly seen.
After two to three hours the cliffs swing
southwest, forming a large headland. Con-
tinue close to the cliff edge, avoiding the
thickening scrub. Within 45 minutes you
round the headland and begin south again,
passing through a surreal patch of eroded
limestone you will see brittle platforms of
rock and stalagmites rising from the earth.
Continue along the cliffs, rounding
a series of small coves on ever-rougher
limestone to Vennachar Point. Below here,
the Glasgow-bound Loch Vennachar was
wrecked in 1905, though such was the
spread of the wreckage it wasnt located
until 1976. Turn east and follow the gran-
ite and limestone cliffs into sandy West Bay.
Flinders Chase Coastal Trek
1 : 250,000 0 5 km
50m Contour Interval 0
Investigator Strait
Cape
Borda
Cape Borda
100
A HOME AMONG THE GUM TREES
It is not by accident that Flinders Chase National Park can feel like an unfenced zoo. Cape Bar-
ren geese and kangaroos graze the lawns at Rocky River, koalas have been called a plague and
tammar wallabies, virtually extinct on the mainland, flourish. Many of the animals were placed
here not by natures hand, but by human hands.
Isolated even from the settlements on Kangaroo Island, Flinders Chase was chosen early last
century as a haven to preserve threatened wildlife. Between 1911 and 1957, 16 bird, six mammal
and two reptile species were introduced around the islands western edge. Some, such as the
emu, hairy-nosed wombat, shingle-back lizard and magpie goose, failed to colonise, but others
thrived, including the koala, platypus, Cape Barren goose and ringtail possum.
Thirty minutes from the point, descend to the cusp of the desert but without the as-
the beach. The camping ground is at the sociated deprivations this is a great place
southern end, behind the dunes and the an- to flirt with the outback without placing
chor from the Loch Vennachar. The camp- yourself at peril. The country may be harsh
ing ground has a water tank and toilet. but the walking usually isnt. Water is eas-
ily obtainable on all three walks described
Day 2: West Bay to Ravine des Casoars here, and Wilpena Pound may contain the
45 hours, 16km best-marked trails you have ever walked.
Follow the road out of camp and east
through low-growing yacca, casuarina and ENVIRONMENT
eucalyptus scrub. After 30 to 40 minutes, About 800 million years ago the earths crust
turn left through a gate onto a wide 4WD thinned and formed a long trough called the
track (vehicles are prohibited) and into an Adelaide Geosyncline. Submerged under
area of regeneration. This obvious track the ocean, it reached from Kangaroo Island
leads north through attractive scrub. After in the south to Mt Hopeless in the north.
two to three hours of gradual climbs and de- Over the next 300 million years it filled with
3 miles
scents, green fields and a long ridge become sediment. Around 500 million years ago the
Scott To
Cove Kingscote visible to the north. The track then turns Geosyncline was squeezed and pushed up
Playfo
rd H w y
(100km)
northwest, dropping back to the Ravine des to form a long mountain chain. Mudstone,
Harvey's Casoars, where the gums will look like forest shale and siltstone around what is now the

Lighthouse Return
150
the phytophthora station, fork left onto a giants after the past two days of scrub. Scan Flinders Ranges eroded away, leaving the
150

Camping
Ground s r
sandy track that winds down into the Ravine the canopy for koalas as you climb through stronger quartzite that forms todays sharp
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
(130m) oa
100

as
15

ars CRavin
des Casoars. This Ravine of the Cassowaries tall woodland to the car park. ridges.
0

ne es Caso

10es
0
150

D
10

START/
100

150

150 ne
10

was named by French explorer Nicolas Bau- More than 450 native plant species have
100

Southern
100
00

FINISH vi
Ocean Rav Ra
D

din in 1803 because it contained great num- been recorded in the Flinders Ranges Na-
FLINDERS RANGES
ine
Des
Cas Gate Ravi
bers of dwarf emus they were extinct by oar tional Park alone, though just a few will
50

(136m) s
0

the time of settlement just 33 years later. 100

dominate your thoughts. Primary among
10

150
10
0

After 20 minutes the track turns west Described by Sir Hans Heysen as natures these is the river red gum, which towers
and descends slowly through sugar gums to bones laid bare, the Flinders Ranges are a from the Flinders dry creek beds. Porcu-
0
10

the tannin-stained creek. Follow the creek continuation of the Mt Lofty Ranges, begin- pine grass, a spinifex, coats the hillsides in
50

Ravine Des
downstream, entering mallee forest just be- ning near Crystal Brook and running north the north, softening them visually even if
100

Casoars 200
Wilderness Area
fore reaching a track junction 1km from the (105m) to Mt Hopeless before petering out in the the grass is like a hedgehog to the touch.
coast. Continue straight on, walking now (208m) Strzelecki Desert. For walkers the Flinders Cypress pines are also a common sight on
along the bank of the creek, to a wooden 150 contain two major areas of interest: the all of the walks.
150

footbridge (one to 1 hours from the start). Flinders Ranges National Park (Wilpena The real mammal-of-the-day in the
Loch
Cross the bridge and walk beneath the dunes Vennachar Pound and Heysen Highlight walks) and the Flinders is the yellow-footed rock wallaby.
100
50

1905
to the small beach. In the limestone cliffs on Mt Remarkable National Park (Mt Remark- Most visible in Brachina Gorge away from
ver

West Bay
Ri

the opposite bank you will see a series of knec able Gorges walk). If you wish to spread the walking routes described here it also
eck

Vennachar
Point DAY 2
Brea
Gate
100kn

caves, but avoid the temptation to enter them your walking wings a little wider, head for inhabits the Mt Remarkable Gorges and the
ea

100
W

Br

50 (65m)
as they are important wildlife refuges. Dutchmans Stern (p273) or Mt Brown. Wilcolo Valley, which you walk through
est B

Paisley Inlet
Flinders a y To Rocky
From the beach, climb steeply onto the Protected Area
iver Much of the Flinders average less than on the final day of the Heysen Highlight.
Rd

Chase kR
River (20km)
Riv

National Park ec
southern hillside to the cliff top. West Bay kn 400mm of annual rain, which puts it on If you dont see this iconic creature, take
50

00

dy
ea
 262 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S P l a n n i n g
compensation from the many kangaroos
that crowd the ranges kangaroos may out-
number trees inside Wilpena Pound. Of the
reptiles, it probably wont be the snakes you
will need to worry about on the Heysen
Highlight you will be hard pressed not to
step on the shingle-back lizards.
PLANNING
Maps & Books
Hema Maps 1:500,000 map Flinders Ranges
is a good resource for getting around the
ranges. Walking trails are marked, and there
are inset maps of the Flinders Ranges and
Mt Remarkable National Parks.
To whet your walking appetite seek out
a copy of Walking in the Flinders Ranges by
CW Bonython, one of the classic Austral-
ian adventure yarns, recounting a 1000km
walk along the length of the ranges. Flinders
Ranges Walks, edited by Peter Beer, has a
selection of walks (and mud maps) through-
out the Flinders.
Permits & Regulations
Park entry to the Mt Remarkable and
Flinders Ranges National Parks is $7 per car
($4.50 per motorbike). Walker bush camp-
ing is $4 per night. Fires are not permitted
along any of the walks, so you will need to
carry a fuel stove.
ACCESS TOWN
Port Augusta
%08 / pop 13,194
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Port Augusta is the so-called crossroads
of Australia, with highways radiating from
this town to Perth, Darwin, Adelaide and
Sydney. As such, it has an overriding feeling
of functionality, and for walkers it is indeed
functional, with Wilpena Pound and the
Mt Remarkable National Park a short drive
away. The visitor information centre (%1800
633 060; www.portaugusta.sa.gov.au; 41 Flinders Tce)
is in the Wadlata Outback Centre, while
the DEH (%8648 5020; upstairs, 9 Mackay St) has a
few brochures on the Flinders Ranges and
bushwalking (as well as a resident jungle
python).
Better Homes Supplies (% 8642 3033; 16-22
Woodstock St) has a selection of camping gear.
SLEEPING & EATING
Leafy and large, the Port Augusta Big 4 Holiday
Park (%1800 833 444; www.portaugustabig4.com.au;
www.lonelyplanet.com
unpowered/powered sites for 2 $25/27, cabins $55-
110;as) is laid out in lines as straight as
the Adelaide CBD and has a camp kitchen
and laundry.
Poinsettia Motel (%8642 2411; 24 Burgoyne St;
s/d $55/65) is the pick of the motel litter lin-
ing the highway north of town, with prices
reduced by competition but facilities im-
proved by new microwaves and TVs. It is
just a stroll across the bridge to the city
centre. On the highway south, Comfort Inn
Port Augusta (%8642 2755; www.comfortpa.com.au;
Hwy 1; d $75-145; as) was Comfort Inn of
the Year in 2004 and is well shielded from
the highway traffic noise. The attached Gal-
lery Restaurant (mains $18-26; hdinner) gives the
usual suspects an unusual twist wasabi
oysters, emu satays and a shared Drovers
Tucker Platter ($56), consisting of emu
satays, kangaroo fillet, camel ragout and
crocodile steak with bush tomato relish and
quandong glaze.
Northern & Exchange Hotel (4 Tassie St; hlunch
& dinner) is two conjoined pubs melded into
a dining conglomerate.
Maxis Pizza Bar (pizzas $6-14) brings the
Flinders Ranges to town with standard piz-
zas renamed into features such as Wilpena
Cheese and Brachina Gorge Hawaiian,
while Wharfies Bistro (mains $10-17) does oys-
ters, steaks and hickory chicken. Or you can
just plump for a counter meal.
For a change from the hotels and motels
that dominate Port Augustas dining scene,
graze at popular Hot Peppers Caf (34 Commer-
cial Rd; breakfast $8, burgers $9), where the coffee
menu is like an honour roll.
Coles (Jervois St) and Woolworths (Tassie St) are
both central.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
OConnor Airlines (%8723 0666; www.oconnor-airlines
.com.au) flies between Adelaide and Port Au-
gusta ($185, 35 minutes) on weekdays.
The bus terminal (%8642 5055; 23 Mackay St) is
in the city centre. Premier Stateliner (%8415
5555; www.premierstateliner.com.au) travels to Ad-
elaide ($41, four hours, four to six per day),
while Greyhound Australia (%13 14 99; www
.greyhound.com.au) runs to Alice Springs ($225,
14 hours, daily). Only Premier Stateliner
tickets can be purchased at the terminal.
The train station (Stirling Rd) is at the city
centres southeastern edge. Through Great
Southern Railway (%13 21 47; www.gsr.com.au)
www.lonelyplanet.com
you can take the Ghan from Port Augusta
to Alice Springs (seat/sleeper/gold-class
sleeper $171/542/710, 14 hours), Darwin
(seat/sleeper/gold-class sleeper $403/1277/
1680, 43 hours) or Adelaide (seat/sleeper/
gold-class sleeper $37/113/300, four hours)
on Friday and Sunday. The Indian Pacific
travels to Perth (seat/sleeper/gold-class
sleeper $272/844/1100, 34 hours) on Sun-
day and Thursday, and to Adelaide (seat/
sleeper/gold-class sleeper $37/113/300, four
hours) and Sydney (seat/sleeper/gold-class
sleeper $266/591/770, 31 hours) on Tues-
day and Friday.
Rental cars are available from Budget
(%8642 6040; www.budget.com.au; 14 Young St) and
Avis (%8641 1010; www.avis.com.au; 35 Victoria Pde).
MT REMARKABLE GORGES
Duration 2 days
Distance 40km
Difficulty moderate
Start/Finish Mambray Creek (p264)
Nearest Town Port Germein (right)
Transport private
Summary Wander a high ridge to link two
superb gorges in the less-heralded Southern
Flinders Ranges.
Mt Remarkable National Park might well
be described as the forgotten Flinders it
is the place everybody drives past in their
hurry to get to Wilpena Pound. But stop
and walk for a while and you will discover
that there is much to recommend it, es-
pecially in and around beautiful Alligator
Gorge.
The 16,000-hectare national park is di-
vided into two sections: Mt Remarkable
and Mambray Creek. The walk described
here is the major outing in the Mambray
Creek section, beginning near the park
headquarters and ranging out to the parks
most striking feature: narrow, brick-red
Alligator Gorge. The circular route can
be comfortably completed in two days, al-
though variations can string it out to a third
day. If you have the time it is worth allow-
ing an extra day to enjoy around the area
around Alligator Gorge.
Water tanks are plentiful along the route
check with rangers at Mambray Creek as
to water levels.
F L I N D E R S R A N G E S M t R e m a r k a b l e G o r g e s 263
PLANNING
When to Walk
Early spring (September to mid-October)
is the ideal time for this walk, with creeks
still flowing and wildflowers colouring the
hillsides. It also makes a good winter walk,
with the average July maximum tempera-
ture at nearby Port Pirie being a comfort-
able 16.4C (1.5C higher than Adelaide)
and monthly rainfall averaging little more
than 40mm. Bush camping in the park is
prohibited between 1 November and 30
April. If you want to walk this route be-
tween those dates your best option is to
begin at Alligator Gorge, camping the night
at Mambray Creek.
Maps
Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic maps
Melrose and Wilmington cover the walk.
Buy them in Adelaide.
Information Sources
Any questions about the park and its walks
can be answered by rangers at the Mambray
Creek park office (%08-8643 7068; www.environment
.sa.gov.au/parks/mt_remarkable).
Permits & Regulations
Camping is prohibited in Alligator Gorge,
Hidden Gorge and within 2.5km of the
junction of Alligator and Mambray Creeks.
Bush camping in the park is prohibited be-
tween 1 November and 30 April.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
Port Germein
%08 / pop 279
Port Germeins big claim to fame is that it
supposedly has Australias longest wooden
jetty (a gong also claimed by Busselton in
Western Australia), at 1283m, and when
the tide is out it needs just about every
metre. It is a likeable slow-paced town un-
less you are a crustacean crabbing is Port
Germeins prime recreation.
Port Germein Caravan Park (%8634 5266; Es-
planade; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $14/20, cabins
$50-65) is basic but has the best jetty views
in town. The advertised grassed camping
areas are the exception not the norm.
Go easy on the alcohol if you are sleeping
at the Port Germein Hotel (%8634 8244; High St;
s/d $30/60; mains $9-16; hlunch Fri-Sun, dinner daily),
where the floors of the generous-sized rooms
 264 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S M t R e m a r k a b l e G o r g e s www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S M t R e m a r k a b l e G o r g e s 265

550 550 450450

450
have more slopes than a ski resort. The coun- The track climbs on gradually to Teal creeks. This grass tree-covered hillside be-

600
00
Mt Remarkable
600 550
500 Gorges

500
550

450
550
Ki
45

reek 35
ter meals are the old-fashioned sort that still 4 50
Dam. Turn left here, following a narrow comes a canvas of wildflowers in spring and

ora

0
1 : 200,000 0 5 km

500
550
550
50 50m Contour Interval 0 3 miles

500

Stony C
believe in coleslaw and beetroot. path through the bush to a vehicle track. has great views back over the bush to Mt

50
0

0
550

No
M th R
50

0
The general store (High St) only has survival- Turn left again and cross Alligator Creek Remarkable.

40
65

ain d
r
0
450
level supplies, so stock up in Adelaide or to reach Longhill Camp (1 to two hours At a junction of 4WD tracks continue

450 500

450
00 500
Port Augusta. from Hidden Camp). The camp has no fa- straight ahead, through a stand of sugar
Port Germein is 240km from Adelaide cilities but Blue Gum Flat, with toilets, gas gums, to a junction before a saddle. Turn

550
0
400 40

500

600 600
Trail

600
along Hwy 1. Premier Stateliner (%08-8415 5555;

0
k
roo barbecues and tap water, is just 300m away. left across the saddle and up to Battery

He
0 70

k
(625m) 45

45
600 600
re

yse
ta r B
C
www.premierstateliner.com.au) buses from Adelaide It is worth exploring Alligator Gorge in the Track. Straight ahead is a narrow path to

65

0
Creek
500

700 650650
75

600 nT
All Ranger

ny
Sto
600

rail
($45, 3 hours, one to three daily) and Port evening. a viewpoint overlooking Spencer Gulf and

N ec

700
Post

700
iga
0

700
70

Gullet

M
Augusta ($18, 45 minutes, two daily exclud- Port Augusta. On a clear day, Whyalla can

Spring Creek
tor Cr

550 550
tR
0
65

450 5 0 0

550
650
Alligator

em

550

5450
Ri
ing Saturday) stop at Port Germein. SIDE TRIP: SUGAR GUM LOOKOUT be seen across the gulf to the southwest.

50
ng Lodge

eek
nt

ark ute T

e
350

e
Ro

Mou

ab

k
Alligator Cr
35 3040 minutes, 2km return Turn left along Battery Track, which you

le

650 600
0 The Terraces

600 600
Go
Mambray Creek Eaglehawk Alligator Gorge At the junction of Mambray and Alliga- follow for two hours, passing a water tank

rge
en Trail

Sprin
550
rail
Heys

350
Dam Longhill

sT
Inside Mt Remarkable National Park, and tor Creeks continue northeast on the 4WD at the junction with Fricks Trail. There are

600
Camp The Narrows 550

rac
Water

700 700

g CSrep
600
k
DAY 2

650
Creek
500
Tank
set among magnificent river red gums, Mam- track, crossing Mambray Creek to stone great views of a parallel escarpment to the

600
Teal Dam Narrow gorge. Will

650
Blue

700
probably need to wade.

550
Gum
bray Creek camping ground (per car/motorbike $8/5) Scarfes Hut (no camping). Here, the track east, at least until the she-oaks take over the

Fricks Trail

Alligator
The Battery Flat

700
750
700
400
600

650
P i ne
has hot showers, a cavalcade of wildlife and Battery turns uphill to a ridge and overgrown Sugar bush beyond Fricks Trail. Watch for emus,

600
300

700
Ridge
250 250 250

is just metres from the trailhead. Mambray Gum Lookout, set among native pines and wedge-tailed eagles and sunning snakes.

Trac
Kingfisher Dam

700700

650
650
Stringers Mt Remarkable Kingfisher
B a t t e ry

650
Cabin ($35-40) is within the camping ground, large sugar gums. Follow the cairns to a After 1 hours you come to Stringers camp

ek

650
750
Camp Site National Park Flat 600

700
Allkigator Cre
Alliga
Water Sugar

700700
750
with a gas stove and four beds (linen not HiddenGor
Tank Gum Dam lower ledge for the best view of the cliffs site (no facilities), which is little more than a
Track

750
g

300 tor Cre

supplied). above Alligator Creek. cleared area of dirt beside the track, though

650

0
700

65
700
eT

60
550
Hidden
rail
Battery Red Cliffs
If driving to Mambray Creek, follow it does have an ocean view.
ree
Gorge Hidden Camp
Lookout

ek
Pine rC
Hwy 1 north from Port Germein for 20km Day 2: Longhill Camp to Mambray Creek From here Battery Track slowly descends,

650
800
Flat
ato

700
Fire

ee k
Side Trip

700
Lookout &
lig

reaching a side track to Battery Lookout for

Mt Rema

(or 48km south from Port Augusta), turn- 68 hours, 27km

800 800
Cr
Water Tank
Al

Scarfes y
15

Al

bra
350

ing right at the signposted Mambray Creek Hut

Return along the vehicle track, past the trail the clearest view yet of Spencer Gulf. Port
0

lig

Ma m
at

Alternative

700
or
rkable Go

turn-off. The camping ground is 6km from Sugar Gum to Teal Dam, into Blue Gum Flat. At the Pirie is visible to the south, framed by grass
450

Finish The Bluff

Cr

0
Lookout
300

750

80
ee

800
(350m) Water
350

the highway. Premier Stateliner (%08-8415 information board turn left, forking im- trees. Five minutes on, by a water tank and

750
Mt Cavern (770m)
k

Mambray k Tank
e ry T

750
500

Creek Camping ac
5555; www.premierstateliner.com.au) operates a serv- Tr mediately left again to descend into Alligator fire lookout tower, turn left onto Hidden
500
rges Track

700

Ground ng The 600

ek
ki
500

600

700
t t l
550

a Pinnacle
re
Ba
ice from Adelaide ($45, 3 hours) or Port nW C Gorge, named not for the presence of any Gorge Trail for a gradual 20-minute descent
600

START/ er 650 (726m)

600

a
v 7
65 50
root
FINISH Mt Ca

750
Augusta ($18, 30 minutes) and will drop 0 reptiles, but supposedly after an Aborigi- north before rounding the spur (and a meat-
550

Black Range
500

Ba
Creek

To Port Park il
you at the turn-off (you will have to walk a Lookout nal shepherd called Alli. Head upstream ant metropolis) into Hidden Gorge. The gorge
700
Germein Headquarters Tr
otaney 500

700

ing 0
ee
k
k

(23km); alk 50 50
ee

the 6km to Mambray Creek). Cr 0 5 (north), crossing the creek several times walls flicker between steep, pine-covered
Cr

Port W 450 50
ta
600

Augusta u lly e
k
ion 550

250 pe
until the closing walls force you to simply slopes and towering, ever-more-impressive
Cahroim

sG
ee

(51km) y o
Cr

a ve M
THE WALK
400

D
k

500

wade through the Narrows, where the red quartzite cliffs. Where the creek turns briefly
reeB
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
C350

600 600
300

reek
300

0
200
100

C
55

ra

Day 1: Mambray Creek to Longhill Camp

600

um quartzite cliffs clamp almost shut. Continue south there is a beauty, with the cliffs worn
pa

600

450
dg
ota
350

600
Se

Re
650
250

450
ro

through the gorge, passing a set of steps up back to reveal lilac-coloured rock in the jag-
50

34 hours, 13km
Ba

From the day-visitor car park (as popular
with emus as people), begin east along the
4WD track. You can stay with the track as
it makes a series of fords along Mambray
Creek, or you can avoid the fords by fol-
lowing a couple of alternative walking trails.
The route is through a wooded floodplain
where euros are plentiful and kookaburras
and galahs provide the entertainment. After
45 minutes you reach a water tank at the
junction of Mambray and Alligator Creeks.
Turn left off the 4WD track, cross Mam-
bray Creek and head generally north along
the banks of Alligator Creek. This is a beau-
tiful stretch of walking, a classic Flinders
scene of river red gums, stony creek bed
and rust-red cliffs. You will cross the creek
numerous times as the cliffs close in first on
Baroota Nob(0m)
to Alligator Gorge car park. ged face.
one side and then the other. After 40 min- At the next fork in the creek, turn left Take the inside corner at the next bend
utes the track turns northeast, with the val- to the Terraces, which are slabs of rock rip- for a simple scramble down through a rock
ley widening and filling with cypress pines. pled like sand from a time when this was fall. Ten minutes later, past large rock falls
At Pine Flat swing southwest between dark- ocean-front real estate. Walk up the slabs on both slopes, the gorge narrows dramati-
ening cliffs, and in 500m you come to the and continue upstream, beginning a 250m cally before opening out towards the junc-
junction with Hidden Gorge Trail. climb to Battery Ridge. At first the track tion with the trail along Alligator Creek
Continue straight ahead through Hidden can be vague, but stay beside the creek and (1 to 1 hours from Battery Ridge). Turn
Camp (no facilities), which sits below beau- it will always turn up. The gorge walls soon right and retrace your steps to Mambray
tiful ochre cliffs, to join a rough valley track. close in again spectacularly and you will be Creek.
This fords the creek a few more times to Red splashing once more along the creek bed.
Cliffs. Here, the track climbs out of the valley Fork left again at the next split in the ALTERNATIVE FINISH: OVER THE BLUFF
through bottlebrush and mallee scrub. You creek. The gorge soon shallows and the 1 hours, 5km
will catch an occasional glimpse of the val- path becomes more distinct, switching If the thought of a long second day doesnt
ley before you pass the junction with Fricks from bank to bank. At the next fork in the appeal, continue along the Battery Track for
Trail (with water tank). Just ahead is grassy creek (45 minutes to one hour from the 1km past the fire lookout tower, then turn
Kingfisher Flat camping ground (with toilet Terraces) continue straight on, following left where the 4WD track makes a sharp
and water tank). the path that climbs steeply between the right turn. This trail heads southeast down
 266 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S W i l p e n a P o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S W i l p e n a P o u n d 267

a long spur to the Bluff (350m), reached
after a short climb. There are some good
views over the plains. The trail then turns
southwest down into more open terrain be-
fore descending steeply to Mambray Creek.
Turn right and head back to the car park.
WILPENA POUND
Duration 2 days
Distance 28.8km
Difficulty easymoderate
Start/Finish Wilpena Pound Resort
(opposite)
Nearest Town Hawker (right)
Transport bus
Summary A highlights package incorporating
the Pounds best tracks into an easy circuit cap-
turing the best of this natural amphitheatre.
Wilpena Pound is a circular beauty spot on
the face of the outback. Fifteen kilometres
long and 8km wide, it is one of the most
striking landmarks in the country, and
to many people it is the Flinders Ranges.
All of the marked trails in and around the
Pound are manageable as day-walks, but
the route described here combines the best
tracks into a single circuit walk, with the
added allure of spending a night inside the
Pound. You also have the opportunity to
walk much of it without your pack. Trail
marking through the Pound is unequalled,
with distance markers every 200m and
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
bushwalkers register as either medium or
difficult (such as the walk described here)
should be entered into the register.
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES
Hawker
%08 / pop 298
Hawker is 55km south from, and in sight
of, Wilpena Pound. You can whet your ap-
petite for the Pound by checking out the
Wilpena Panorama (cnr Wilpena & Craddock Rds; adult/
child $5/2), a stunning landscape painting de-
picting the 360-degree view from atop St
Mary Peak. It shows most of the terrain
you will cover in the Wilpena Pound and
Heysen Highlight walks.
Teague Hawker Motors (% 8648 4014; cnr
Wilpena & Craddock Rds) has that bush knack for
being all things to all people: petrol station,
knowledgeable visitor information centre,
seismograph station and the Flinders Ranges
Accommodation Booking Service (%1800 777 880;
www.frabs.com.au), which offers stays at six sta-
tions, mostly around Hawker. It also has the
largest selection of books on the Flinders
you are ever likely to find.
SLEEPING & EATING
Hawker Caravan Park (%8648 4006; www.hawkersa
.info/hcpark.htm; unpowered/powered sites for 2 $23-25/
24-33, cabins $80-125) has an open area featuring
drive-through sites, including the outback
rarity of grassy tent sites.
Hawker Hotel-Motel (%8648 4102; hawhotmot@
internode.on.net; cnr Elder & Wonoka Tces; s/tw/d with shared
SAINT OR SERPENT?
St Mary Peak (1171m) is the highest mountain in the Flinders Ranges and a place of great sig-
nificance to the Adnyamathana (or Hill People), who prefer that visitors dont climb it. In the
Adnyamathana dreaming, two serpents travelling south camped at a waterhole near Edeowie
Gorge. That night, a group of people held an initiation ceremony in the Pound. The serpents
twined together around the ceremony, surrounding its participants and eating all but two of
them. The serpents bodies now form the walls of the Pound, as they lay here still watching the
escape of the two initiates. St Mary Peak is the head of the male serpent (Beatrice Hill is the
head of the female).
To respect the wishes of the Adnyamathana, you should not climb onto St Mary Peak beyond
Tandera Saddle.
Old Ghan Restaurant (%8648 4176; Leigh Creek Rd; Gulf Getaways (%1800 170 170) buses leave
lunch $10-16, dinner $17-24; hlunch Wed, dinner Thu-Sat) Port Augusta for Wilpena ($50, 2 hours)
is set in the old stone railway station at the at 3.30pm Friday and noon Sunday, stop-
western end of town, and has an eclectic ping at Hawker en route. They return from
menu that ranges from crumbed camem- Wilpena 2 hours later.
bert with quandong chutney, to barramundi
reared at the local school, to nachos. THE WALK
Day 1: Wilpena Pound Resort to
GETTING THERE & AWAY Cooinda Camp via Edeowie Gorge
Gulf Getaways (%1800 170 170) runs buses be- 45 hours, 15.3km
tween Port Augusta and Wilpena, stopping From the bushwalkers register beside the
at Hawker. Buses depart Port Augusta ($40, store begin along the bank of Wilpena Creek.
one hour 20 minutes) at 3.30pm Friday and Cross the creek at the second bridge (look
noon Sunday, and make the return from out for a giant, hollowed river red gum on
Wilpena ($20, 45 minutes) 2 hours later. your right), then turn left, walk 100m and
turn right. Follow the St Mary Peak Out-
Wilpena Pound Resort side Trail posts through open woodland
The Wilpena Pound visitor information centre to a junction where the Heysen Trail peels
(% 08-8648 0048; www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/ away right into the camping ground.
flinders_ranges) is an excellent source of walk- Continue straight ahead as the path un-
ing info. dulates northwest, crisscrossed by dry gul-

regular directional markers.
PLANNING
When to Walk
Walking is best between May and October,
when temperatures average between 13C
and 25C and there is usually water in the
creeks and the rockhole near Cooinda Camp.
Prepare for cold nights freezing dawns are
not unusual in winter. Avoid summer, when
temperatures frequently rise to 45C.
Maps
Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic map Wil-
pena covers the whole Pound. Buy it in Ad-
elaide if possible.
Permits & Regulations
Cooinda is the only permitted camp site in-
side the Pound. Walks listed on the trailhead
bathroom $35/50/55, motel s/d $70/80, meals $11-19) has
no-frills hotel rooms and self-contained
motel rooms on the edge of town. Lunch and
dinner are from a standard pub-grub menu
with the addition of items such as salmon
salad and cold collation.
The spacious rooms at the Outback Chap-
manton Motel (%8648 4100; www.hawkersa.info/biz/
outback.htm; 1 Wilpena Rd; s/d $85/95) are the best
in town. The associated Chapmanton Holiday
Units (Arkaba St; s/d $90/100) are about 500m
away and are plainer and a bit frayed but
offer two bedrooms and a kitchen. Shared
reception is at the motel.
Hawker General Store (cnr Wilpena & Craddock Rds;
sandwiches $4-7) has supplies enough if your
walking palette is undemanding. The at-
tached caf does sandwiches and hot dogs,
with cameos by such notables as celery juice
and zucchini and leek soup.
Beautifully set just outside Pound Gap,
Wilpena Pound Resort (% 1800 805 802; www
.wilpenapound.com.au; dm $30, s $115-185, d $125-199;
ais) has four room types with local-
ised names Brachina, Aroona, Heysen and
Edeowie but generic motel features. For
top dollar you get a kitchen and a bigger
TV. The resort also manages the adjoining
camping ground (unpowered/powered sites for 2 $16/22,
permanent tent $50), where your neighbours will
be feathered and furred as well as human.
Permanent tents have power and a fridge.
The resort store has a wide range of sup-
plies, though it is mostly items (frozen piz-
zas, cheesecake etc) you wont want to stuff
into a backpack. At Captain Starlights Bistro
(mains $14-23; hbreakfast & dinner) you can watch
Skippy graze metres away as you eat one
of his mates. Poddy Dodgers Bar (mains $13-17;
hlunch) offers a pub atmosphere next door.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
lies and kangaroo trails. You get your first
glimpse of St Mary Peaks ramp-like sum-
mit at the 1.8km marker, but it is another
30 minutes before the first decent view.
Soon after, the 300m climb to Tandera
Saddle begins in earnest, ascending west
through several rocky outcrops some of
the climbing involves basic scrambling.
There are regular views north across the
arched back of the Heysen Range.
At the final outcrop, after 45 minutes
to one hour of climbing, veer left (follow-
ing the blue reflectors) to rise onto Tandera
Saddle. The view includes St Mary Peak to
the northwest, Mt Boorong to the southeast
and the mogul-like peaks of the Pounds
opposite wall in between. If you are intent
on climbing St Mary Peak (see the boxed
text, above), note that it involves more
scrambling and can be treacherous if wet.
 268 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S W i l p e n a P o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S H e y s e n H i g h l i g h t 269

Wilpena Pound 1 : 70,000 0

50m Contour Interval 0 1 mile
2 km Head south out of camp on a path that HEYSEN HIGHLIGHT
900 700 550
850
6 soon becomes a wider track, passing from
St Mary
800 11000 Peak(1171m)
105 stands of cypress pine and young eucalyp- Duration 3 days
10
00
tuses into open woodland dotted with large, Distance 61.5km

11
0
65

00
105
0 600
unruly gums. Twenty minutes after passing Difficulty moderate
95 00 St Mary Pea He
0

10 Start Parachilna Gorge

k Outside
through a large clearing, popular with kan-
75

0 Trai 650 yse

Tandera l n
Saddle Tra
700 85 il garoos, the trail reaches a junction with the Finish Wilpena Pound Resort (p267)
Edeowie 0 Mount
Gorge Boorong
650 Heysen Trail. Continue straight on to Hills Nearest Town Hawker (p266)
(1085m)
0
60 Homestead, a stone settlers home built in Transport shuttle service

1000
650
0
750 55 the early 1900s. There is a water tank and Summary Follow the northern end of the

900
0 Attunga
95
Malloga
Bannon
Bluff
(1009m) Wilpena Pound toilet here and the beginning of the trail to Heysen Trail to discover the Heysen and
Falls Resort Caravan
Gap Park To Wangara Lookouts, set on a gentle ridge ABC Ranges and the best views of Wilpena
Edeowie Cree

95 Hawker
0
(55km) running north from the homestead. Pound.
START/ Cross the footbridge and join the road,

0
80
Rockhole Wangara FINISH
Hill passing a beautiful pool where Wilpena If you dont have a spare two months to
k

650 (898m)
Cooinda Camp DAY 2
700
850
Wilpena Creek briefly widens. Walk through Pound walk the entire Heysen Trail (below), con-
Pound
800 Pound Resort Gap to the 0.8km marker, where the track to sider walking this northernmost section in-
Gap
Mt Ohlssen Bagge breaks away right. Take stead. This is where the trail is arguably at
Flinders
this track, crossing Wilpena Creek and con- its most magnificent, following the curling

800
Ranges
National Park Drought
St
M
ary
Busters tinuing straight ahead into open country. Heysen and ABC Ranges, which run north
Trail
Pe a
Avoid the right turns to the Drought from Wilpena Pound. It is also the section

a Creek
k In

600
side

650
Tra
il Buster Trail and climb gradually through most fitting to a Heysen Trail experience

Wilpen
90
porcupine grass, casuarinas and grass trees. it was around here, particularly around the

800
0
Hill's Mt The trail zigzags round a series of weathered Aroona Valley, that Sir Hans Heysen, the

85
Homestead

0
Ohlssen
850

outcrops, working its way southeast along a painter for whom the trail is named, took

75
Bagge

70

0
(940m)

0
Heysen
Wilpena
Spring wide shelf to a break in the summit escarp- much of his artistic inspiration.
Trail
Greig
Peak North W
ment, where it turns west. Once through There are reliable water sources at
ilpena Creek
the escarpment it doubles back to follow Aroona and Yanyanna Hut and usually at
the cliff edge to the summit of Mt Ohlssen the vehicle camp sites near the trail. For
It should not be attempted if the summit is from camp. It is a well-formed track but Bagge (940m), which has a great view into information on water levels at other loca-
covered by cloud. you will still be pushing through casuarinas the Pound, including Edeowie Gorge and tions, check with rangers at Wilpena.
The old walking track straight down much of the time. Pass the rockhole and cross the upturned nose of St Mary Peak. To the
into the Pound is now closed (though still North Wilpena Creek twice (there may be north, directly below, you will see the resort PLANNING
very visible). Instead, turn left along the water at the first crossing) before climbing and its solar power station. When to Walk
ridge, descending across the slope of Mt to some rock shelves with good views north Retrace your steps to the road, turn right The best season is around August to mid-
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Boorong, officially entering the Pound as to Tandera Saddle and the ribbed back of and follow it into the resort. October when you can expect fine, warm
you leave the ridge. If it seems like a shorter St Mary Peak. Pass another gully look
descent than the climb, it is the floor of to your right and you will see a set of rock
the Pound is around 180m higher than the steps masquerading as a waterfall and 10 HEYSEN TRAIL
surrounding land. As you descend you will minutes later you come to a large cairn and Named after Sir Hans Heysen (18771968), a renowned painter of the Flinders Ranges and Mt
get glimpses across the scrub that reveal the a glimpse into Edeowies depths. Lofty areas, the Heysen Trail stretches for 1200km from Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula to
Pounds circular shape. The trail descends into Edeowie Gorge Parachilna Gorge in the Northern Flinders Ranges. It is one of the most daunting long-distance
Passing through Bannon Gap, you come and the end of the marked track. Follow walks in the country. Even if you are able to walk 30km per day, you will be on the trail for 40
to stony North Wilpena Creek (one to 1 hours the creek bed west for five minutes, edging days, much of the time through semiarid country. Most people take around 60 days to walk
from Tandera Saddle). Cross it to reach around the left side of a waterfall. Malloga the trail.
Cooinda Camp (no facilities), set among Falls are 20m on, inside the narrow slot of Sections of the trail that run through private property are closed from about November through
low mallees. Water is available at a rock- an orange side canyon. to March, while trails through national and other parks close on days of Total Fire Ban. This is
hole (marked on the Wilpena map) about Retrace your steps back to camp. not a walk you want to tackle in summer anyhow average January maximums in Hawker are
500m from camp. To find the hole, follow around 34C.
the Edeowie Gorge trail until just beyond Day 2: Cooinda Camp to Wilpena The Friends of the Heysen Trail (see p251) should be your first stop if considering a walk
the 9.0km marker, looking for a small rock Pound Resort along the Heysen Trail its website has some excellent planning material. Pick up also the
ledge on your right. The rockhole is below 34 hours, 13.7km two dedicated guidebooks to the trail, Heysen Trail Northern Guide and Heysen Trail Southern
here; it is an easy scramble down. Get an early start this morning and you will Guide. They feature brief descriptions of each section, have excellent maps and are ring-bound
Store your pack in camp and take the be mingling with kangaroos most of the for ease of use on the trail.
Edeowie Gorge trail, which leads northwest way to Hills Homestead.
 270 F L I N D E R S R A N G E S H e y s e n H i g h l i g h t www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com F L I N D E R S R A N G E S H e y s e n H i g h l i g h t 271

40

65
60

6
00

5
0

65
445

65

650
65

65
ek u

600600
40
0

600
650
at
e400
conditions and a decent mat of wildflowers. It is a gentle ascent mostly, though there is Horn

500 600

650
3

400

550
Heysen Highlight

55
300400 ga 450
50

350

600
Or
350 350
Camp

600
WARNING

450

65050
400 r
350 tu 350

650
450 C
Day 1 of the walk runs through private prop- a steep pinch after about 800m. The track

650
600 700

650
Mount

6
Blinman

500
350 300 350
1 : 320,000 0 5 km

350

00
450

600
650

300
Mary(0m)

400
n
50m Contour Interval (739m) 0 k a Cree 3 miles

500 5
600

O 300

650
650

eek
Angorichina
erty and is closed between 1 November and River red gums (which are ominously known descends east from here to reach a junction a Cree

650
chilnPara

300250
Parachi chiln

ra
Village ParaThe 60 k

350

600

600

r
Parachilna

350
300
lna Cre 0

600
400

C
450

600
Creek

300

550 550
550
15 April and on days of Total Fire Ban. with a walking trail. Take this path south- Gorge ek Waterfalls
Elevation

650650
300
as widow-makers) can unload branches

an
650
350

a
iln

550
450
START 4 Parach

linm
Alpana

B550
Blinman

600 600 600

650
00
without warning, so choose your tent site east (the 4WD track continues straight

600
45 Angorichina Pools

500
k

650

550
500

600
0 TouristTaring Saddle 5 650Wilpena Pound ee

0
500

550
500
Cr
Maps & Books

550 550 55
550
50
on for 1.8km to Red Hill Lookout, which

550
carefully, well clear of these large trees. Village

550 500
Wild Dog
Yanyanna n

700
Mt Falkland 600 a

400

600
450
Morela

700

550
550 m

450
(792m) Hut inman CreHut ek Blin

35
The series of maps dedicated to the Heysen has carbon-copy views to that ahead at

500

600
750
550 W Bl

550
0

600 600
Bunyeroo

450

550

550
500
oc
Middlesight

550
Trail have been phased out and replaced Brachina Lookout). Aroona ke HutPatterton Lookout

650
50

700 750

650600
Cr

W
Mt Bell 500 Water r

550
eek 0
Valley o c kera w a Lookout
(778m) wir ir

550
550
by two books. Heysen Trail Northern parrots are common here, as are shingle- Cross a wide creek, then begin a sus- ra ra reek

45
450 Cr CrPatterton C(707m

650

500
Nintenta

400
400400 400 450

0
AB
Peak(726m) eek ee Mount
Guide covers the described route and in- back lizards. tained climb into the Brachina Formation.

600
500
k

650
Crisp Gorge

500
550650
400 Emily(0m)6

C
450

Ran
Workara 600

Fi
Gum Creek
cludes accurate maps and mostly accurate After 45 minutes to one hour, climb above After 10 minutes you reach Yuluna Hike Dead Goat Parachilna Tr Gorge

550
550

550
55

ve
Peak(0m) Soak Bulara Peak(624m) 350 0
Barrego ez

ge
Mile
Mingari
wa Cre on
elevation profiles. The alternative is to buy the creek, following a fence to a small sad- junction. Turn left, heading east along the

600
550

650

600
Peak ek South 300

550
aR

600
600
Crown

600
600

600
an Hill(0m

Creek
the Landsmap 1:50,000 topographic maps dle. Round the spur into Wild Dog Valley spur to Brachina Lookout. From this fantastic (697m)

550
750
ge

600
Cosy Creek 250m

700
450 400 350

800
600
Tea 6

650
30 00 40

600 650
Mt Dib(817m)

800

500
0km 10 20 50 60

800
Wilpena, Oraparinna and Blinman, though and a plain covered in cypress pine, dotted vantage point you can see Wilpena Pound

600 650

600 600
750

600
500
Kankana ee k
arekila Cr Mt Dab(816m)

500
WPeak(834m) Creek

600 600
750
Bulls

55
550
500
they dont show the trail. with wattle. Continuing south, views open to the south and the long lines of the Hey- Taring Saddle

750
600

550 600
750 600

0
700
Iralbo Pigeon

450450
alking Track Bulls

600
700

600
Peak(804m)
out of the Heysen Range and Mt Bell, with sen and ABC Ranges.

600
300
Bore W

550
Gap

600
Hey
p

500
Aroona 550

700

550550600 600
600
Ba ek
thtub Cre

550
a
600
NEAREST TOWN & FACILITIES

700

600
750 700

sG
its red escarpment and lush gorges. The trail drops off the back of the range, Hill (687m) Tk

600
sen

ull
Mount 550 ing

B
Aroona Valley l k

ek
Barloo(758m)
Mount a

750
Tra
See Hawker (p266) and Wilpena Pound The trail dips into Wild Dog Creek a cou- crosses a 4WD track and continues south-

700
Camping WHill

Cr e
Barbara Red

50
ap 550

il
Ground

600
Aroona GLookout

0
Bu
Resort (p267). ple of times but mostly stays on the vehicle east. Crossing Brachina Creek several times lls

a
nd ee Lookout

500 500 k
Bu

600600
ulla

n
Cr Brachina Lookout

Yu500
Koolamon

500450 450
u
450

800
800
track. About one hour from the saddle you you reach the ruins of Morela Hut, an outsta-

l
Spring

300
Walkandi Peak

450
Trezona Bore

450
DAY 2

40ke
300

450
850

0
Angorichina Tourist Village Walkandi Creek Yuluna H Morela

450
i

450
reach a fence. Walk beside this, crossing tion of Haywards Aroona property, though

450
a W a 0 r ac k
450

400

k
He

k N 450450

450 450
Mt Hayward

ek

ee
Hut (ruin)

450
800

no 550
lking T
Near the head of Parachilna Gorge, Angori-

Cr
the creek and climbing steeply onto the op- now just a fireplace. Below the ruins you

yse
reek (865m)

Cre
h
Hayward CSouth False

ort

a Creek

45

a
m
nR
Mount Hayward(843m)
Hayward Brachina Enor

ra
china Tourist Village (%08-8648 4842; unpowered/

400
posite bank. Crossing a stile, you will get a will see the Trezona Bore windmill but it

E500
Mt

400
200
Bluff

an

450
Formation

350 400

450
Hayward(854m)

500
350 400

a
ree
400
ge

450
450
Youngoona

oon
powered sites per person $9/10, dm from $14, cabins $70; glimpse west into Crisp Gorge. has no accessible water supply.

i
Trez o n
ach
aC

400
Trezona Waterhole

450
Heysen Ora

Ar
0

250
Brachina

Br
n
30 Camping parin
ai) is in the literal middle of nowhere, Descend back to the creek, crossing it Take the faint path (not the 4WD track) Hill

450
Ili
Brach Gorge Ground Youngoona na

450
ina G

450
0

400

450
orge Rd 30

450
Camping

550 500 500 450

450400
Trezona
which is handy since that places it very near several times on a narrow and faint (but south, rounding the hillocks and then fol-

350
350
Single Gum

400
0 Ground

550
40

450
Brachina Gap Hill (462m) Trailhead

400
600
El
to the trailhead. Camp sites are shaly but well-marked) path before rejoining a vehi- lowing Brachina Creek. After about 40 min- ati

Et
450 450
Elatina na

in
ing 400

600
The Guardian

a
350

450
450 ck

550500500
Middlesight
have great views onto the ABC and Heysen cle track. This continues faithfully south, utes you break from the creek, veering into

550
Water

Cr
(630m)

350

450 ra
T Water Hut

550 500
300
(639m)

eeEt
500 400450

550
600600 600
Old

400

k in
450

450
Ranges. Mountain bikes can also be hired beside and along the creek to Taring Saddle open country that only becomes more open

Cr
Elatina

500
l
450
Wa

600 650
450

ee

aC
Hut

350

450

600 550600
k
($45 per day) if you need to ride back to (45 minutes from the stile). You have now and hard-baked as you walk. As the pines

350

500

na
450

550

ree
0

600
y an

600
500

40

700
550

65
0

600
35

0
Wilpena to pick up your car. climbed around 320m since leaving Para- disappear and the elegant wattles (looking

500

600 600 600 550 550

Yan
45
250
Mt

600
Bunyeroo
Rupert Valley

650
550
450
Yanyanna Hut

600
chilna Gorge, though it should have been most inelegant) become more predominant

450
(605m)

600
Lookout Mount

550

600
350 300 250
DAY 3

750750
450

500
500
Well

600 550
450

750
GETTING TO/FROM THE WALK

450
almost imperceptible. there are more good views of the Pound. Bu Bunyeroo

500

550 550 550

750
50 Bu

750
300 300
250
ny Gorge Yanyanna

400

450
Mount

550
450400

0 ny
ero

550
400
o Cr Hill(514m) 650 Sunderland 00

450 450
The trailhead is at a car park inside Para- Begin an equally gentle descent into the The way can be confused by the many ani-

550 500
250 7

700
400

550
eek er o

600 600600
450
400

700
ee400
400

650
350
(259m) o

600 650
chilna Gorge, 3.7km west from Angorichina Aroona Valley, pass the windmill at Pigeon mal tracks that intersect the path stay at

55600
SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Rd
k
350
0

400
450
600

350
350

650 50
600
400
Bunyeroo

550
600
Bore (where you can pump iron-tasting

Wilcolo Cr
Tourist Village. a fairly constant height; the trails that head

350

400

600

6506
650
450 450
450

55600
Valley

450

B uny

650
(664m)

700

600
Alpana Station (% 08-8648 4864; www.alpana water) and head through open woodland up the hills are the critters.

500

500

650
350
Bunyeroo Appealinna Spring Cadbury Spring

350

650
50

ero o R
600 600
Mt Sinnett

500
500
Wilcolo T
0
-station.netfirms.com) operates a shuttle service for 1 hours to an old farm gate. Cross a Two hours from Brachina Lookout you Lookout

600
(721m)

600
450

600
Wilc

600
500
850

500

500

600
800
for walkers between Wilpena Pound and stile and turn east, walking 100m to Aroona come to a track junction with the Trezona

750

d
55

550

500

650
Flinders 0

500

550
350

olo C
Upalinna

650 500

500
Mt Abrupt

750
Ranges

550 550
650
Parachilna ($140). Lookout, with views across the valley to Mt Hike. Turn right and cross back towards Outstation

rac
(861m)

600
850
55

550
National Park

700
0

550
650
k
reek
Sa

600
Ed
Wil

700
Hayward and Walkandi Peak. Also here are Brachina Creek, which is now winding up Ed

700
wt
1050
col

600
e
e o T 65

oo
ow
THE WALK

650 600 700

ee600 600
ra c 0

1050
Kanalla 100 8St Mary 550

oiw
the foundations of Aroona Homestead, built

500 550
1000
to become one of the Flinders most famous

th
0 k

eC

550
9

700
Edeowie
Falls 00 5 0Peak

1000 650600
1100

650

550550
1050

550
Wi

1050 700
ie Cre
9

650
Cazneaux

600
1150
Gorge 5 600
Day 1: Parachilna Gorge to Aroona Valley (1171m) Cre lpen

1100
ree e

550 r 600
10 0

650
1050
in 1854 for the first pastoralist in the area, gorges. Within 30 minutes you reach a road.

5
Tree

a
600 600
ek a

500 500
k

en
k
k Malloga 00 Tandera Saddle Wilpena

650
650
650

ilp

500
650
44 hours, 16.3km John Hayward. Turn right and walk 100m to the Trezona

1000

650
Bannon

550 C
Reggies

550W
Falls

500 500 500

St Gap 95 Mt Boorong

1050

na
75
Nob M

500
950
0 (1085m) l

reWe550
i

550

550
pe

500500
From the car park, cross the stile and the Over the rise is the pug-and-pine Aroona Trailhead (with water tank). If you fancy Cooinda
aAttunga Bluff(1009m) a

50550550
FINISH
ry Pounde Traile Tr

1100

kil
Camp Pe Wangara To Hawker
Beatrice 00 Outsid

00850
Rockhole StakMary 8Peak Wilpena
id Pound
800Gap InsResort (50km)

100
wide bed of Parachilna Creek to a tributary Hut, where Hans Heysen stayed a number of an early finish, Trezona camping ground

900

650

500
HillPompey Hill(898m)

aC
50
In

00
00
ak

0
00

threading south between the Heysen Range
on your right (west) and the ABC Range on
your left (east). After five minutes cross an-
other stile, turning up the far (easternmost)
stream of the creek; the closest stream leads
to a fenced dead-end.
The trail switches between the soft creek
bed and a vehicle track, but always follows
the general course of the creek. Ringneck
times. The Aroona Valley camping ground,
a fantastic, sprawling site at the foot of the
ABC Range, is 100m east of the hut. It has
toilets, drinking water and bins.
Day 2: Aroona Valley to Yanyanna Hut
67 hours, 24km
Head east from the camping ground on a
4WD track, climbing into the ABC Range.
stretches out ahead of you.
Turn left (south) at the trailhead and
cross through grasslands and over Brachina
Gorge Rd. Cutting southeast across the
bends of a creek you reach Middlesight
Water Hut after 30 minutes. The hut has
four bunks, a water tank and the appear-
ance of a power substation. In the creek
beside the hut there is a permanent spring.
N
Turn right onto Yanyanna Walking Track
(joining here the Mawson Trail, an 800km
mountain-biking route from Adelaide to
Blinman), swinging southwest. As the track
zigzags through a few creeks you will see
the forlorn ruin of Old Elatina Hut (1 to 1
hours from Trezona Trailhead) to the west.
Just beyond, and betrayed by the greenery,
 Lonely Planet Publications
272 M O R E W A L K S K a n g a r o o I s l a n d www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com M O R E W A L K S D e e p C re e k C o n s e r v a t i o n Pa r k 273

there is another spring, slightly upstream
from where it is marked on maps.
After another 1 to 1 hours you reach
Bunyeroo Rd. Turn left and, 400m on, turn
right into Yanyanna Hut, a corrugated-iron
shelter with a water tank, floor space for
mattresses and room outside to throw a
few tents.
Day 3: Yanyanna Hut to Wilpena
Pound Resort
56 hours, 21.2km
The first 7km of this day is the most rug-
ged of the walk, but it is a doddle thereaf-
ter. Start early and you will witness one of
the Flinders signature scenes: dawn over
Bunyeroo Valley.
The trail leaves Yanyanna Hut from
the western end of the stockyards. It is an
ill-defined path at first but the markers
are always visible as you climb the round
peak south of the hut for a spectacular
view of the Pound: St Mary Peak is central,
with the Sawtooth running off its west-
ern shoulder, and Mt Abrupt as stark as
its name suggests. Climb onto the next
peak south (for an equally good view),
then drop steeply west down a spur to
Bunyeroo Creek. Turn left along the creek
bed, which soon narrows to a crevice. As
the valley widens again, stay in the creek
bed until a sweeping S-bend. Here the trail
takes to the right bank, climbing away and
west onto a shelf above the creek. Follow
the shelf to a creek confluence, crossing
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
right onto a foot track, descending to a
creek and then winding into a low run of
hills.
The trail swings east, passing between
several knolls. As the trail turns south again
you get final views of the Pound, with Mt
Ohlssen Bagge most prominent, and soon
the trail intersects with a 4WD track. Turn
left and walk 500m into the Wilpena Pound
camping ground.
mit Hike brochure, obtainable from the
MORE WALKS
KANGAROO ISLAND
Hanson Bay
The white-sand beach at Hanson Bay is one
of the more idyllic locations on the rugged
Kangaroo Island coast, and can be accessed
along a walking trail from Kelly Hill Caves.
The trail winds past Grassdale Lagoon and
along South West River to emerge at the
beachs eastern end. Return the same way
to complete the 18km walk.
For information on the walk, see the
DEH office in Kingscote or the Kelly Hill
Caves visitor information centre. Carry
Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic map
Grainger.
Rocky River
For an enjoyable day walk encapsulating
much that is great about Flinders Chase
National Park, a circuit route out of Snake
Lagoon is recommended. Walk to the cliff
the Mt Remarkable Gorges walk (p263). Fol-
lowing that route to Sugar Gum Lookout, it
continues east on fire trails across the Black
Range and onto the western slopes of Mt
Remarkable. You can return to Mambray
Creek the same way or, if you have spare
wheels, you can make the shorter descent to
Melrose. Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic
map Melrose covers both routes, though the
trail from the war memorial isnt marked.
The Mount Remarkable National Park Sum-
trailhead, offering short, challenging walks
Melrose Caravan Park, has a map sufficient
for the first walk.
Dutchmans Stern
A prominent bluff 10km west of Quorn,
named for its resemblance to an early
Dutch sailing ship, the Dutchmans Sterns
most striking feature is its quartzite es-
carpments. A half-day, 10.5km walk heads
through she-oaks and sugar gums, and
past the escarpments, to views that include
Wilpena Pound and Mt Remarkable. You
can rent out the old homestead (Sun-Thu $70,
Fri & Sat $80) at the foot of the bluff; it sleeps
up to 15 people. Landsmaps 1:50,000 topo-
graphic map Port Augusta covers the walk.
Gulf Getaways buses from Port Augusta or
Wilpena stop in Quorn but you will have to
make your own way out to the peak.
Blinman Pools
Beginning at Angorichina Tourist Village
(p270), a 12km return walk heads through
DEEP CREEK CONSERVATION PARK
Deep Creek is one of the most enticing
walking destinations in easy reach of Ad-
elaide. The 4500-hectare park runs along
Fleurieu Peninsulas south coast, staring
across to Kangaroo Island, and includes
20km of the Heysen Trail. From Aaron
Creek picnic area you can follow the creek
to the coast (11km) or connect to the
Blowhole Beach track along the Heysen
Trail. Trig Campground is the other major
to Deep Creek Waterfall and Deep Creek
Cove, or a circuit (10.4km) taking in both.
Information is available at park headquarters
(%08-8598 0263). Landsmaps 1:50,000 topo-
graphic maps Cape Jervis and Torrens Vale
cover the park. It is is easily accessed from
Adelaide, though Cape Jervis or Yankalilla
make closer bases.
LINCOLN NATIONAL PARK
Investigator Trail
A place of quiet coves, sheltered beaches and
sheer cliffs, Lincoln National Park, 20km
south of Port Lincoln, is also the location
of one of South Australias few viable long-
distance trails. The Investigator Trail, named
after Matthew Flinders boat, winds 93km
through the park, making a figure-eight
loop that includes Pillie Lake, Cape Don-
ington and Taylors Landing. Allow about
five days. Information can be obtained at
the Port Lincoln DEH office (%8688 3111) or
visitor information centre (%1300 788 378; www

straight over to a track junction (1 to 1
hours from Yanyanna Hut). Turn left and
join a 4WD track after 100m.
Climb for 30 minutes along the flanks of
some low hills, then veer right onto a foot
track. This climbs more steeply for 400m to
a crest where a side track to the left climbs
further along the ridge to Bunyeroo Lookout
for your closest look yet at the Pound.
Return to the crest, where the trail de-
scends northwest, switching across ridges
and slipping through a gorge in the ABC
Range to emerge into the beautiful Wilcolo
Valley (30 minutes from the lookout). Cross
the Wilcolo Creek and continue straight
on (ignoring a track to the right) to meet
the Wilcolo Track. Turn left and follow the
track for two to 2 hours, passing beneath
Mt Abrupt, St Mary Peak and Mt Boorong.
At a gate (and a billboard-sized sign) turn
tops immediately south of the lagoon, then
follow the coast north through Sandy Bay
and around Cape Bedout to Breakneck
River. Follow this inland to West Bay Track,
returning along it to Snake Lagoon. Lands-
maps 1:50,000 topographic map Vennachar
covers the area.
FLINDERS RANGES
Mt Remarkable
The walk to the summit of the Southern
Flinders standout peak used to begin from
the Melrose showgrounds, but this track
has been closed due to rock fall. The route
now follows the Heysen Trail from the war
memorial above Melrose (accessed from the
road to the caravan park). The 12.2km re-
turn walk makes for a good day out, though
a more appealing, two-day approach can be
made from Mambray Creek, at the start of
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
cypress pines and river red gums to a pair .visitportlincoln.net). Pack the Landsmap 1:50,000
of pools, and seasonal waterfalls, on Para- topographic map Jussieu. There are air and
chilna Creek (or Blinman Creek, depend- bus connections to Port Lincoln from Ad-
ing on which side of Parachilna Gorge you elaide. Air connection is by Regional Express
live). Landsmaps 1:50,000 topographic (Rex; %13 17 13; www.regionalexpress.com.au). Bus
map Blinman covers the area, though the connection is by Premier Stateliner (%8415
trail isnt marked. 5555; www.premierstateliner.com.au).
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