Professional Documents
Culture Documents
INFORMATION
Prepared by the Columbus House Rabbit Society
www.rabbit.org
www.columbusrabbit.org
1. Rabbits need a balanced diet of unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard, oat,
brome), limited pellets, and fresh greens. (pp. 2-3)
2. Do not feed your rabbit seeds, nuts, corn, or deluxe pellets that contain
seeds, nuts, or corn. (p. 2)
3. Limit starchy or sugary treats, including fresh fruit and carrots. (p. 3)
4. Do not use pine or cedar bedding; do not use pine, cedar, clay or
clumping litter. Do use paper-based litter (e.g., Yesterdays News or
CareFresh), newspaper, or wood-stove pellets in your bunnys litter box. (p. 5)
5. If your rabbit stops eating, or if his poops are smaller or fewer, take
immediate action. Rabbits who do not poop or eat in 24 hours are in danger of
dying. (pp. 12-13)
6. Do not use Frontline flea and tick treatment on your rabbit; it can be fatal.
7. Do not pick your rabbit up by the scruff of the neck or by the ears. Be sure to
support her hind quarters.
8. If you already have a rabbit, introduce your new rabbit to her cautiously and
gradually, and only after both are spayed/neutered. (pp. 14-17)
9. An exercise pen provides a larger and more pleasant space for your rabbit
than a cage, and its so much easier to clean. (p. 4)
10. Be sure to take your bunny to an experienced rabbit veterinarian. Many vets
who are wonderful with cats and dogs know very little about rabbits. (p. 9)
DIET
HAY
Hay the most important part of your rabbits diet. It is an essential source of fiber, which is
critical for keeping your bunnys delicate GI tract moving. Chewing hay also helps keep your
rabbits teeth in shape to prevent serious dental problems. To avoid a mess, put the hay in your
bunnys litterbox; change daily.
***A healthy adult rabbit should not eat alfalfa hay, which is very high in protein,
calcium, and calories and may lead to health problems.***
PELLETS
Choose a plain pellet that has at least 18-20% fiber and no more than 16% protein. Timothy-
based pellets are the best choice for an adult rabbit. Alfalfa pellets are higher in calories, and
feeding them can lead to weight problems. If you do feed your bunny alfalfa-based pellets,
monitor her weight carefully and adjust her rations accordingly.
***Do not feed your rabbit deluxe or gourmet pellets containing dried fruits,
nuts, seeds, or corn. These ingredients, high in fat and starch, can cause a variety of
health problems, including potentially fatal intestinal blockages.***
FRESH GREENS
For something a little special, top the greens with a sprig of fresh herbsbasil, lemon balm,
thyme, dill, fennel top, mint (but no chives).
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TREATS
Avoid commercial treats. A baby carrot or a small slice of fresh fruit (apple, banana, pineapple,
or strawberry, for example) will provide a healthy and delicious treat for your rabbit. Because
they are high in calories, feed treats sparinglyno more than 1-2 tablespoons daily.
7 weeks 9 months
Unlimited alfalfa pellets (plain pellets, no seeds, nuts, corn, etc.) to four months; after
four months, limit pellets to ensure that your rabbit eats enough hay.
Unlimited timothy hay (you can put this in your bunnys litterbox, for neatness)
At 10 weeks start introducing a few leafy greens in very small amounts (e.g., dandelion
greens, romaine or green leaf lettuce, parsley, endive, mustard greens)
9 months 1 year
NOTE: fruit and carrots may be given as a treat, but no more than 1 oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body
weight.
Oxbow and American Pet Diner produce high-quality timothy pellets, as well as hay and high-
quality treats. Check the store locators on their websites to find a supplier near you:
http://oxbowhay.com/
http://www.americanpetdiner.com/
***
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HOUSING
Many people allow their rabbits free run of a room or a portion of their homes. At least initially,
however, its good for your bunny to have a home base. The cages sold in pet stores are
generally too small for the basic needs of an adult rabbit. An exercise pen provides a far more
attractive option. Its
Easy to clean
Easy to move
Easy to adapt to different living spaces
Large enough for your bunny to hop
around and play
About the same price as a decent cage
A litterbox
A cardboard hidey box for privacy
Food and water bowls
Toys
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LITTERBOX TRAINING
Fill with about to 1 inch of litter (use paper based litters, such as
CareFresh or Yesterdays News; wood-stove pellets; or several
sheets of plain newspapernever use pine or cedar litter/bedding
or clay or clumping cat litter)
Top with hay (bunnies will typically eliminate in one corner of the
box and munch the clean hay), adding a second handful at night.
Most spayed or neutered bunnies will catch on quickly (if your rabbit has just been spayed or
neutered, it may take a little more time for the hormones to die down).
TIPS:
Until your bunny is using her litterbox regularly, confine her to a fairly small areaideally an
exercise pen or a small room like a bathroom.
If your bunny picks her own spot to eliminate, move the litterbox to that spot. Bunnies are
notoriously stubborn about where they want to go!
When she goes outside the litterbox, give her a hint by soaking up a little of her urine on a tissue
or paper towel and putting it in her litterbox.
Dont hesitate to use multiple litterboxes, especially as you allow your bunny more freedom to
roam. You can easily cut back once shes thoroughly trained.
Never yell at your rabbit or punish her for having accidentsit wont help and may be
counterproductive (your bunny may think youre crazy or frightening). Positive reinforcement is
the trick: praise her for spending time in her litterbox, and make her want to spend time there by
keeping the box clean and providing plenty of tasty, fresh hay.
Keep plain white vinegar on hand to clean up accidentsit works wonders on stains and odors!
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MAKING YOUR HOME SAFE
FOR (AND FROM) YOUR RABBIT
Because rabbits love to dig and chew, its essential to bunny-proof the areas of your home
your rabbit will have access to. Here are some methods to guard against the most common forms
of rabbit mischief.
Your rabbit will be less interested if the cords look too thick
to snip. Threading them through hard milky-white plastic
tubing, available in the plumbing section of most hardware
stores, will protect both your house and your bunny. Do not
use clear tubing; she will chew though it!
2x4s along the perimeters of your room can Indulge the rabbit whos dying to get
protect your carpeting and baseboards from diggers. behind your couch with a tunnel made
from a cardboard concrete form.
Many people have found Ivory soap or bitter apple spray effective
deterrents for rabbits who like to chew furniture.
Note: Rabbits often turn to carpets and furniture out of sheer boredom.
Providing chewable toys or a place to dig can help. Read on for
entertainment ideas.
For more tips on bunny-proofing, see
http://www.sandiegorabbits.org/behavior/bunnyproofing.html
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RECREATION
Rabbits are full of energy and need plenty of space to run and play. If you house your rabbit in a
pen or a cage, be sure to allow her time out every day for recreation. Your bunny will be so
much happierand youll enjoy her so much more. Bunnies are amazing athletes. They may
race around a room doing Bunny-500s, turn 180-degrees in mid-air, or kick up their heels in
little bunny dances known as binkies.
Cardboard Cottontail Cottages are a great favorite with many bunnies, who enjoy exploring the
different levels and peeking out the windows. The diggers and chewers can have endless fun
tearing out the floors and making new windows!
Hard plastic baby toys make terrific bunny toys. Toss a set
of plastic keys toward your bunny and see what she does!
Or build a tower of stackable plastic baby cups for your
bunny to knock over and fling around.
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BUNNY QUIRKS
Blind Spot: Because a rabbits eyes are positioned on the sides of her head, she has a small blind
spot directly in front of her. So if you see her sniffing around for a morsel thats right in front of
her nose, its perfectly normal and doesnt mean shes going blind. For the same reason, you
may startle her if you reach straight in to pat her, as you would a dog or a cat; its better to reach
in from her side or over her head.
Thumping: Bunnies usually thump to convey anxiety or displeasure. They may thump to get
your attentionor to protest the kind of attention theyve been getting (as in, Go away: I dont
want to be picked up! or Shame on you for trimming my nails!).
Nipping: Bunnies may nip, especially when theyre just getting to know you, without meaning
any harm. An effective discouragement is to let out a short, high-pitched yelp every time youre
nipped. Your bunny should take that to mean, Hey, knock it offthat hurts! Bunnies also
commonly nip to say, I want down! or Get out of my way!
Chinning: Rabbits often lay claim to objects and people by rubbing their chins against them,
thus marking them with a scent undetectable to people.
Pulling hair: Pregnant rabbits pull hair from their chests and legs to
make nests for their kits. Unspayed females (or even spayed females
living in the vicinity of unneutered males) sometimes undergo
pseudo-pregnancies in which they display this behavior.
Shes eating her poop??? If you see your bunny reach down to her anal area and come up
munching, shes just retrieved a cecotrope. Cecotropes are nutritious pellets created from
indigestible fiber in the part of the rabbits intestine known as the cecum. Unlike the hard, round
fecal pellets you find in your bunnys litterbox, cecal pellets look like tiny, gooey, clusters of
grapes. Because rabbits normally eat them as soon as they are processed, youll rarely see them.
Finding more than an occasional cecotrope may indicate a health problemobesity, a diet too
high in protein or starch and/or too low in fiber, or the onset of a serious illness.
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CHOOSING A VETERINARIAN FOR YOUR RABBIT
Unlike cats and dogs, rabbits do not get annual vaccines; they nonetheless need
annual check-ups to make sure theyre healthy and to nip potentially serious
problems in the bud. One of the most important things you can do to ensure that
your rabbit lives a long and healthy life is to find a veterinarian experienced with
rabbits. Many veterinarians who are wonderful with cats and dogs know very little
about rabbits.
Listed below are veterinarians used by Columbus House Rabbit Society fosterers
and members. If you use any of these vets, be sure to interview them yourself,
because the House Rabbit Society cannot guarantee your satisfaction.
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HEALTH MATTERS
LIFE EXPECTANCY
A well-cared-for house rabbit can live to be 10-12 years old, or even older;
the average life span is 7-10 years. Contrast this with the average life
expectancy of about two years for an outdoors rabbit. You can help ensure
that your bunny lives a long and happy life by providing a good diet, plenty
of exercise, love and vigilance, and regular care from a rabbit-experienced
veterinarian.
SPAY/NEUTER
An unspayed female has about an 80% chance of contracting some form of reproductive
cancer by the age of five.
Raging hormones may make an unspayed or unneutered rabbit aggressive, destructive,
and very hard to litterbox train.
Unspayed and unneutered rabbits should not be bonded.
MEDICAL EMERGENCIES
Because they are prey animals, rabbits instinctively hide their illnesses, so their caretakers must
be especially alert to subtle signs of illness.
Loss of appetite or smaller and/or fewer poops may indicate ileus, a potentially serious
problem. See the article starting on p. 12 for what to do if you suspect ileus.
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OTHER MEDICAL CONCERNS & GROOMING
Teeth: A rabbits teeth never stop growing. Some rabbits teeth become
overgrown, a condition known as malocclusion, and need to be trimmed.
Rabbits molars can have painful points that cause them to stop eating.
Drooling and loss of appetite can be indicators of tooth problems. Take
your rabbit to a vet immediately if she shows signs of tooth problems,
and make sure she has a good oral check-up at least once a year.
Ears: Whenever you trim your bunnys toenails, be sure to check her ears for dirt, wax buildup,
redness, or any sign of infection. Other indicators of ear problems include scratching the ears
and shaking the head. Contact your vet if you see any of those signs. At least once a year, your
vet should examine your rabbits ears with an otoscope; lops may require more frequent exams
because they can have more of a tendency for ear infections.
Shedding: Rabbits shed their fur four times a year in a process that can take anywhere from a
couple days to a few weeks to complete. Long-haired rabbits, in particular, are prone to hair-
ballsjust as cats are. But because bunnies, unlike cats, cannot vomit, the hair they swallow
when they groom themselves can cause a potentially-fatal intestinal blockage. To prevent this
problem, groom your rabbit regularly during heavy molts and make sure that she is getting plenty
of exercise and eating lots of hay.
Nails: Trim your rabbits nails every 6-8 weeks, or nip off the end of the nails once a month.
Use cat/dog nail trimmers and be careful not to cut the quick (the vein running through the
rabbits nail). If the quick isnt visible, get a better view by shining a flashlight under the nails.
Red Urine: The color of a healthy rabbits urine ranges from clear through a spectrum of
yellows, oranges and reds. Much of this variation is due to diet. So long as your bunny is not an
unspayed female and there are no other indications of trouble (straining in the litterbox, for
instance), dont be alarmed by red urine.
Flea and Tick Treatments: Consult your veterinarian before using any flea and tick treatment
to ensure that you are applying a formula and dosage safe for rabbits. Never use Frontline on
your rabbit; it can cause death.
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Huh, Rabbits Can Get Gas?!
By Karalee Curry
I answer the ringing phone and the person on the sticking out in a weird way. Some press their
other end starts telling me their rabbit is not bellies to the floor. Some sit hunched, and their
eating, won't come out from under the chair, and eyes may or may not be bulging. They are
this has been going on for a few hours. unable to get comfortable and they keep shifting
Thumper was perfectly fine this morning. She their positions. They usually won't eat or drink.
ate all of her pellets and was munching on her I have had a couple of rabbits whimper. Keeping
hay in the litter box when I left for work. I came an eye on your rabbits behavior makes it much
home and found her like this. What do I do? easier to recognize a problem early.
As an educator for HRS, I receive at least 50 to Also keep in mind that when a rabbit is getting
60 similar calls each year. Typically, the cause is sick with something else, it can affect
ileus, a slowdown in the processing of food by GI motility as well. If the ileus has been
the intestinal tract, otherwise known as GI stasis. gradually coming on for a while, you may see
While ileus is a common occurrence in rabbits, smaller poops as well as fewer poops. This is
veterinarians often misdiagnose it as a why it is imperative to know what your rabbit is
hairball, which is a much less common pooping each day, otherwise known as the
problem when rabbits are fed the proper diet. I poop scoop. I look in all my rabbits'
have heard many sad stories about what vets litterboxes each day as I dump them to see if the
who are unfamiliar with rabbits have done, or poops are their normal size and there is the usual
NOT done, to try to get the rabbit better. amount of poop.
Unfortunately, several rabbits have not
survived. For this reason, it is very important Another possible early sign of ileus: Your rabbit
that you recognize the early symptoms of ileus. does not finish eating their normal amount of
pelleted food or quits eating pellets completely.
There are several important steps you can take You should know how much your rabbit
before your rabbit gets sick. normally eats and drinks each day. The sooner
you notice a change, the sooner you can take
Have an established relationship with a action.
rabbit-knowledgeable vet. When your rabbit
has an illness, whether GI stasis or something Okay, you think somethings going on. Now
else, it is imperative that you have a good vet what?
to take your bun to.
The first thing you should do is determine
Familiarize yourself with your rabbits normal whether the rabbit has any stomach sounds. A
behavior this will make it much easier to rabbits digestive tract should make a little noise
recognize when your rabbit is off. What does at all times that you can hear. It will sound
off mean? It could be that your rabbit won't almost like water swishing through, or a
eat or drink; is laying in a strange position, or gurgling. You should familiarize yourself with
moving around a lot, trying to get comfortable; the normal sounds your rabbits stomach makes
is hiding under the bed or somewhere private when they are healthy and fine so you can more
and won't come out; is laying in the litter box, easily recognize a problem.
which is not common for YOUR rabbit.
I have found that the easiest way to do this is to
Over the years, I have become pretty good at lay a towel on a table and place the rabbit on it. I
telling when a rabbit has gas or stasis. They then lay my ear on one side of the body, close to
usually lay funny, sometimes with their sides the stomach. You may need to listen for a while.
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If you dont hear any sounds, try the other monitor the temperature closely. From time to
side. Most likely you will not hear any gut time, lift the rabbit up so they don't get too
sounds. On the other hand, you may also hear a warm. It usually doesn't take long to warm them
lot of gut sounds, which can mean that the ileus up maybe 10 to 15 minutes. This often helps
is causing gas. In some cases, you can hear a get the gut moving since the blood can be
rabbits stomach gurgling from across the room. redirected to the gut rather than having to help
Not all cases of ileus involve gas but many do. with body temperature.
The treatment is the same whether the rabbit has 5) If the rabbit is no better in 45 minutes, repeat
gas or not, and you need to start the treatment the simethicone.
immediately. The medication you are going to
administer is simethicone, which is an over-the- 6) Offer the rabbit food, such as greens, hay, or
counter drug used for children and adults. fruit.
Common brand names are Phazyme and Gas-X.
Dont worry that you might be doing something 7) Gently encourage the rabbit to move around.
that could make things worse. Simethicone This can help to work out the gas and get the GI
wont cause any harm if given in proper tract moving.
dosages, and usually is very effective. You will
be mixing the simethicone with water, which 8) If the rabbit is no better in another 45
will help hydrate the stomach and intestines. minutes, provide more oral hydration. Use either
water or pedialyte. I try to get at least 10 to 15
Okay, heres my cheat sheet version of what to cc's into the bun, if possible. Continue the
do. Keep this list handy. A sick rabbit can be stomach massages, keep offering food, and
very scary and you dont want to forget encourage the rabbit to move around.
anything. This sheet does not take the place 9) If the rabbit is still not better after you have
of taking your rabbit to the vet. It is written been at this for a couple hours, you should take
with the intention of helping your rabbit the rabbit to your vet.
while you are waiting to go to the vet. If your
bun has gas or GI stasis, this treatment may If you catch the problem early, often times you
help get your rabbit back to normal and you can get the rabbits GI tract moving again within
may not have to go the vet. a couple of hours.
1) Listen for gut sounds: no sounds probably Some rabbits have a tendency to develop ileus.
means ileus, loud sounds can mean lots of gas. If yours does, you might want to talk to your vet
2) Crush up one mint-favored, 125 mg about whether you should learn how to
simethicone tablet and mix it with about 2 1/2 administer sub-q fluids at home, as well as pain
cc's of water. Suck the mixture into a syringe, medications, when necessary, if the GI stasis
place the syringe in the corner of the mouth, and persists.
carefully squeeze the plunger. If the rabbit
struggles, you may have to wrap the rabbit in a Some of you might say, But my rabbit has done
towel (the famous bunny burrito). this and has gotten over it by herself, or some
similar scenario. Yes, sometimes the rabbit does
3) Gently massage the stomach for several recover on her own. But many don't. Do you
minutes, or as long as the rabbit will let you. want to take that risk?
4) Warm the rabbit up if they feel cool to the
touch. A rabbits ears help to regulate body For more information on the subject, go to:
temperature, so the ears may be cool or cold to http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/ileus.html.
the touch. As the ileus continues, the rabbit may
become cool to the touch all over. If this Originally published in the Columbus House
happens, put a heating pad on low with a towel Rabbit Society Newsletter, vol. 1, issue 2,
on top of it. Place the rabbit on the towel and Autumn 2003.
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INTRODUCING RABBITS TO EACH OTHER
PRELIMINARY CONSIDERATIONS:
Only try to bond rabbits who are spayed or neutered. Wait at least two weeks after the
spaying/neutering surgery before introducing the rabbits to ensure that the incision has healed
and that hormones have had a chance to die down.
Male-female bonds are usually the easiest to establish; male-male bonds the hardest. Because
females are generally more territorial than males, its usually easier to bring a female home to a
male than the other way around.
If you have adopted a second rabbit, do not put the newly adopted rabbit right into the
resident rabbits home territory. Fighting is likely, and it can result in seriousperhaps
life-threateninginjuries.
The key principle of bonding is that the introduction and get-acquainted process take place
in neutral territory, that is, a space thats not familiar to either rabbit.
Bonding strategies vary, but most experts recommend that your rabbits live side-by-side in
separate cages or pens for a couple weeks before you let them meet in a common space.
Inducing a little stress before bringing rabbits together makes them less likely to fight. For this
reason, many experts recommend preceding the first several bunny dates with car rides. Put
your bunnies in their separate carriers and drive around with them for 10-20 minutes. Or put the
bunnies in the back seat of the car with a litterbox full of fresh hay; by the end of the car ride, the
bunnies will be huddled together in the litterbox. The theory is that this artificially induced
togetherness will make the bunnies realize that snuggling is really pleasant and they will be more
ready to snuggle when theyre not stressed.
When youve returned from your car ride, put the bunnies in a neutral space. This space should
not be so big that the bunnies can completely ignore each other and it should not have places to
hide. Make sure that you are in the space with them so that you can intervene immediately at the
first sign of aggression. Wear gloves or have a towel ready to stop any serious fighting. Put two
hay-filled litterboxes in the space, along with some toys, and perhaps spread some hay and
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veggies on the floor. (The photo on the right shows a
typical bonding setup; pens are being used to create a
restricted space.)
SIGNS OF PROGRESS:
Do make sure that the relationship is firm before moving the rabbits into non-neutral territory.
For more on the bonding process and many helpful tips, see
http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/introductions.html.
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STEPS TOWARD BUNNY LOVE
The bonding of Zoe, a three-year-old mini rex, with Alfie, a five-year-old Himalayan dwarf,
illustrates some of the phases bunnies go through as they become friends.
When one
rabbit
approaches
another with
head bowed, a
posture known
as presenting,
as Zoe is
doing in the
photo on the
left, s/he is
asking to be groomed. In the picture on the right, Zoe and Alfie obviously want to be friends.
The question is whos going to break down and start the grooming ritual?
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Thats more like it!
When one bunny grooms the other, the relationship has taken a major step forward. The only
problem is that sometimes one bunny does all the grooming! The other bun will naturally want a
turn, and frustration can lead to nips and bites. You can help move your buns through this
impasse by dabbing something tasty on the top of their headsa splash of plain apple juice, for
example, or pureed banana.
Harmony
With her legs kicked out behind her, Zoe is perfectly comfortable with her buddy.
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RESOURCES
BOOKS:
Marinell Harriman, House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live with an Urban Rabbit (4th edition)
(Best guide to life with a house rabbit; marvelous photographs.)
Kathy Smith, Rabbit Health in the 21st Century: A Guide for Bunny Parents (2nd edition) (Major
health issues are covered in terms easily accessible to the layperson.)
INTERNET:
LOCAL SUPPLIERS:
Columbus House Rabbit Societys Bunny General carries exercise pens; Oxbow hays and
pellets; Cottontail Cottages; Busy Bunny willow balls, bowls, tunnels, tents; CareFresh litter and
litterboxes; grooming supplies; and much more. See www.columbusrabbit.org for details. For
pick-up call 614 470-0093 or email bunnygeneral@columbusrabbit.org.
Many Lowes and Home Depot, Sutherlands, and Tractor Supply Company (TSC) stores carry
wood-stove pellets in the winter, and some TSCs stock them all year.
Home Depot, Lowes, Andersons, and probably most hardware stores carry plastic tubing for
wires.
www.columbusrabbit.org
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