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SCROG

by
FOZ (translated by Nublar)
File Source: emule (ed2k: / / | file | SCRoG.doc | 3913216 | 902E205BB9A371B4A86
A926DBEC3184B | /) Original language: Italian Translated by: Nublar (http://www.
lamarihuana.com/foros/) Date: March 2008 SCROG stands for Screen of Green (Green
Mesh). It is a farming technique developed during the 60s in the U.S., while st
ill not used HID lamps in the culture room and served to maximize the efficiency
of fluorescent tubes, which were the main source of light used then.
1 - Data on Imagine lighting a light source either. This light source has a cert
ain light intensity, we measure in lúmenes/m2. As we move away from the source,
the light intensity will decrease because the light is dispersed by a larger ar
ea. The same thing happens when you throw a stone into a lake, waves appear in t
he center and become more and more weak (until they disappear) as they move away
from the center. Regarding the relationship between the distance of the lamp an
d the lumens, the light intensity decays rapidly as we move away from the source
. Lost ¼ of its initial value each time you double the distance (as can be seen
in the figure).
Each lamp, according to his power (expressed in watts - W -), has a certain oper
ating range, the more watts possesses the greater the surface
might illuminate. The Use of low-powered light how they could be neon or 70-150-
250 watt HID lamps, will cause a plant of a certain height (80-100cm) the lower
areas do not receive sufficient light. This does not mean that the plant will no
t bloom, but it will happen to the buds of the low areas will be small and sligh
tly resinous, compared with those who are closer to the spotlight. This does not
preclude the use of low-power lamps, we shall see how, using some tricks we can
get a good yield this type of lamp.
2 - SCROG - Bases A - The mesh
The basic concept is very simple: limit the vertical growth and instead, promote
horizontal growth, so we will make the plant and flowers are all the same dista
nce from the light bulb, thus achieving the same lighting conditions whole plant
. All this may be achieved by using a semi-rigid network, how you see in the cha
rt. The shape of the holes is not important, square, hexagonal, rectangular. Wha
t is important is the size of these, 5 cm is an appropriate measure. The mesh sh
ould be at a height between 20 and 30 cms on the base of the plants. When the pl
ants reach that height, making them grow horizontally, filling the mesh as regul
ar as possible, without leaving gaps. We recommend the use of cuttings taken fro
m a female parent plant, found a male when gaps have been filled, it is a pleasa
nt surprise. Apart from the loss of time and the difficulty of removing the male
of the mesh, will be an empty hole where no light will be used.
.
B - Guidance of plants is not essential to hold the branches, but recommended. I
deally, for each hole in the mesh, have one or two points. To achieve this targe
t and tame the plant, the best thing you can do is use wire and plastic closures
(the bags of bread, pastries, etc) as seen in the photo.
Hold the plant in the mesh is an art. These two objectives harmonize, ours and t
hat of the plant. On the one hand, we must fill the grid evenly, otherwise the p
lant will grow over the mesh. So it is first important to have a plant that want
s to collaborate and give the ideal way for our purpose. It will therefore be ne
cessary to amend its development (see section C) and choose a variety with the a
ppropriate phenotype (see section D).
These three plants are not suitable for scrog are slightly branched
This one however if it is suitable for scrog
Having a branched plant, we have two possibilities when it comes to distribute u
nder the mesh, from the center or from one side (see chart below). In the first
case (concentric distribution) we must be sure to place the branches so as to fo
rm a spiral. It is important that some of the secondary branches (marked in red)
turn on themselves toward the center, so avoid these areas are empty. In the se
cond case (distribution eccentric) the stem of the plant will be located at a ce
rtain angle, the main branches will be located parallel with each other and high
angles (90 ° to its base) to these, so they fill the spaces. The major branche
s will be located toward the ends€and the tips are higher than those of the sec
ondary branches, so that the tips will prevent larger shadow make others that mi
ght be around.
Top view
If the plant is well prepared to hold the mesh will be no problem. The important
thing is to be consistent and regularly into the desired shape, so the branches
more easily guided SERN. They let up the tips of 4-8 cm above the mesh and then
drops below this and if necessary, be subject to the above closures. Then some
pictures of the bottom of the screen:
1
2
3
And here an example, in the first picture is observed as the tips protrude sever
al inches above the mesh and the second picture as the same points have been rel
ocated below the mesh, folding carefully.
Before (up) ...
... And after a session of guided
C - Prune or not to prune ... In order to facilitate the distribution of plants
throughout the mesh, is a good idea to do what in English is called "topping." T
he aim is to promote the development of side shoots. Before placing the plant un
derneath the mesh is cut the main shoot. At this time the hormone concentration
at this point is very large and for this reason (besides the fact receive more l
ight), the main branch which is more developed than the rest. Pruning causes the
plant has to redistribute the concentration of hormones, thus ensuring a more u
niform formation of the buds. In SCROG seeks uniformity, it is for this reason t
hat we do not want much bigger tips than the rest, limiting the light received b
y neighboring tips. It looks the same visual effect with a SOG (Sea of Green), b
ut using only a quarter of plants. It is important to prune when the plant is st
ill young, so that all side shoots are likely to reach the screen at the same ti
me. Once the plant reaches a height of 13-15cm, is ready for decapitation. In or
der to minimize the trauma of pruning is important to make the cut with a very c
lean and sharp blade. We recommend using pruning technique called FIM (Fuck I Mi
ssed). If we cut the entire outbreak at an angle of 45 degrees, we get two new b
ranches, in contrast with the FIM pruning may be able to get to 3-8 new branches
. Unlike the traditional cut at 45 º, the FIM pruning will cut concave (U), eli
minating about 80% of the outbreak, instead of all the bud how in traditional pr
uning. Published: For more information on how to make a FIM pruning, visit the f
ollowing message forum. http://www.cannabiscafe.net/foros/showthread.php?t=75810
I tried it in one of the plants in the first SCROG I did, and got to develop fi
ve new outbreaks. Obviously, each new outbreak alone could not produce as much a
s the original outbreak, but we are looking for uniformity in the size of the bu
ds, in order to fill the screen as possible.
It is important not to cut the outbreak, we leave intact around 20%. In practice
, only cut the tip, the base will remain intact on your site. The following illu
stration should help, but only practice, a sharp blade, a good pulse and some co
urage, give the desired results.
D - How many plants? The SCROG is ideal in a small mount with low-power lamps, b
ut no one forbids us to SCROG with 1000W lamp and 2m two or more mesh. A larger
screen will require more attention from us. When deciding how many plants we put
under the net, we must take into account an important fact. When you SCROG we w
ill need 1-3 weeks more than the normal crop, in order to fill the screen comple
tely. Therefore, increasing the number of plants going to reduce the time needed
to fill the screen. Taking as an example a 60x60cm cabinet, the ideal number of
plants is 4, but if we reduce the time filling the screen, we can put up to six
plants. If instead, the wait time is not important, we can do SCROG with only t
wo floors. For filling of the mesh, we can choose between two distinct options (
or some of the many variations in between). We can pass the mesh flowering half
full or we can leave the plants in the vegetative period / growth for longer, fi
ll the entire screen and let them grow about 10cm above, before moving on to flo
wering.
First case.
250W End of growth period (lack complete mesh)
Advanced flowering 250W
Second case, clearly shows a greater density.
400W End of growth period (mesh fully loaded)
Advanced flowering 400W
I believe with low-power lamps, you should choose the first option and with lamp
s with greater ability to penetrate (400W and above), it is possible to carry ou
t a SCROG denser. It is important to know that once you pass to flowering, the p
lant will continue to grow. It passes through a phase of drawing that we conside
r. We can proceed to bloom with a mesh padded to 80-85% and continue with sessio
ns led during the first two weeks of this phase or let the ends grow without mor
e, a fully populated mesh, and thus gain a few inches more in height. This phase
varies in size and duration, depending on the genetics of the plant. For exampl
e, the Silver Pearl Sensi Seeds have a short stretch phase, whereas some phenoty
pes of the Bubble Gum for Whitelabel (a subsidiary of Sensi Seeds), have a very
clear phase of stretch. The Cinderella99 (Brothers Grimm) can be up to twice its
height at flowering. Therefore, when making SCROG with a type of plant characte
ristics which are unknown, it is advisable not to fill the screen entirely, to a
void the surprise of a stretch too much during flowering, which makes reaching t
he tips placed too close to the bulbs.
Some varieties recommended for SCROG: Silver Pearl, Northern Light, Cinderella99
, Bubble Gum. E - Sheets "useless" is strongly recommended periodic cleaning of
dead leaves, especially if the SCROG is very dense, with the aim of promoting th
e circulation of air in the ends and prevent the formation of mold and mildew. W
e will have to remove all the yellow leaves and all those who have fallen short
of the network and which no light reaches them.
3 - Technical AvanzadasCon SCROG "Over the years the concept SCROG base has evol
ved in an attempt to make it more practical and / or productive. Below you will
find a small sample of this development. A - Arena SCROG Such maximizes the use
of light. Network is located in a V, so the ends are the same amount of light th
at the center (to understand because it is so, see paragraph 1. Data on lighting
). This structure makes sense when using lamps is not suitable when using fluore
scent lighting. In the case of lamps, light distribution should be conducted on
a concave surface, whereas the fluorescent lights is better than the ends are al
l at the same height. Fluorescent Lamps
B - Modular The biggest limitation is undoubtedly SCROG lengthening the duration
of the harvest. To remedy this problem, if there are two different environments
, one for growth and one for flowering plants can be arranged in small modules (
1-3 plants per module). These modules can be moved easily, so you will get to ta
ke the last weeks of flowering of the more advanced modules, to put more modules
in the growth zone and have them ready when the flowering room is empty.
In addition these modules may represent a partial solution for those who wish fr
om seeds instead of cuttings. If you see a male, we can remove it easily. C - Ve
rtical - Green Box In this case no reflector, but the plant will grow around the
lamp, maximizing the light output of this. The idea is to fill the whole box wi
th tips toward the lamp inside, distributing branches abroad. In this way we rea
lize the full potential of the light bulb and we can quadruple the size of flowe
ring. The disadvantage of this technique is that the distance between the networ
k and the lamp is fixed or at least can not be changed easily. This presupposes
that we must have a good knowledge base SCROG technique and characteristics of t
he plant used, to avoid burning tips in case you get too close to the lamp.
This is an example of vertical SCROG, using only a 70W lamp. The concept is alwa
ys the same, just change the orientation and the number of planes in which the p
lant is located.
Let me end this brief journey through the world of SCROG with an example of what
I consider the use of this technique in its heyday. I call it the green tunnel
and has been done by a good friend, Realhigh of OverGrow.com. It consists of a 4
00W lamp, located around the net is affixed circumferentially. The lamp has a gl
ass tube (Pyrex) and around the pipe ends are connected to an air circulation sy
stem, all in order to reduce the temperature. The system is hydroponic farming.
The hydroponic unit with 400W lamp
With the network placed

Results
SCROG a tutti Buon
Published: Firstly my thanks to Foz, the author of this guide, use it as a prima
ry source of information for my first SCROG and the result was more than accepta
ble. Thanks also to all the experienced growers who share their knowledge and ex
perience on the Internet, through which you can avoid or overcome many of the mi
stakes of a beginner, we all make in opening the Queen's home-grown plants. The
original owners included three links, I did not post here because no working any
more. Instead I put another 3 to give some more information and practical exampl
es. Different types of pruning: My first SCROG http://www.cannabiscafe.net/foros
/showthread.php?t=75810 interior: exterior SCROG http://www.lamarihuana.com/foro
s/viewtopic.php?t=36465 very currado: http://www.lamarihuana.com/foros/seguimien
to-scrog-exterior-2005-t25269.html In both forums find information on the leftov
ers and cultivation SCROG interior / exterior, one need only look. A greeting an
d
smoking that are two days!

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