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Copper Foil Panel and Tiffany Style Lamp Making Plus 3D Panel Projects combines 590 pages of text and
photos (PDF). The basic instructions are applicable to any off-the-shelf pattern or custom design. Furthermore,
by following these instructions, vase caps are well-fitted. For increased precision, this CD depicts pattern
making; whereby vellum is glued to glass for scoring and grinding. Learn the panel
sandwich flipping method to raise a shade into a 3D
configuration. Discover how to put pigtails on a spider so you
never have to bend spider arms again. If you want to customize
your shade proportions, use one of the 18 algorithms files in
Microsoft Excel. In summary, the text and photos are a valuable stand-alone
resource, but coupled with the algorithms, you can customize any design.
Also included: 28 patterns (PDF), mostly in the Prairie style, representing the various types of panel lamp
shades, 24 patterns (PDF) of 3D panel projects (lanterns, boxes, terrariums, votives,
business cardholder, cross, night light, and more), and nine Tiffany style
patterns (PDF).
Lamp Patterns
Peacock (Combination)
Winged Pagoda
Low Profile
Petal Panel
Fan Lamp
Christmas Trees
Ellipse
Globe
Lighted Pedestal Mushroom
Prairie
Peacock
Stellated
Lamp Patterns
Twisted
3D Patterns
Night Lights
Triple Birdhouse
Bird Feeder
Twisted
Easter Egg
Pyramid Cross
Tiffany Patterns
Chickadee Birdhouse
Elliptic Tulip
Cone Grape
By Michael C. Thomas
Plus 3D Panel Projects
Copper Foil Panel and Tiffany Style
Lamp Making - Plus 3D Panel
Projects
By
Michael C. Thomas
Copyright 2006 and 2007 and 2008 and 2010 Michael Curtis Thomas.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording,
or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner with the
exception of reproduction of the patterns for personal use.
Version 1.83
ii
Table of Contents
Preface .vi
Chapters
1. Panel Lamp Basic Instructions
2. Panel Lamp End Notes
3. Design Algorithm
4. Winged Panel Lamp Shades
5. Beveled Corner Panel Lamp Shades
6. Pagoda Panel Lamp Shades
7. Combination Panel Lamp Shades
8. Pool Table Panel Lamp Shades
9. Beveled Corner with Uniform Crown Panel Lamp Shades
10. Beveled Corner Pagoda Panel Lamp Shades
11. Petal Panel Lamp Shades
12. Inward Bevel Panel Lamp Shades
13. Pleated Panel Lamp Shades
14. Curved Panels for Panel Lamp Shades
15. Protruded Panels of Panel Lamp Shades
16. Globe Panel Lamp Shades and Fountain Designs
17. Bell Panel Lamp Shades
18. Mushroom Panel Lamp shades
19. Elliptic Cone Panel Lamp Shades or Tiffany Style Lamp Forms
20. Conical Panel Lamp Shades or Tiffany Style Lamp Forms
21. Panel Wall Sconces
22. Tiffany Style Lamp Shade Making
23. Tiffany Pagoda Lamp Shades
24. Tiffany Beveled Pagoda Lamp Shades
25. 3D (Non-Lamp) Panel Projects
26. Banker Panel Lamp Shades
27. Conical Fan Lamp Shades
28. Three Panel Fan Lamp Shades
29. Low Profile Panel Lamp Shades
30. Kaleidoscopes
31. Stellated Panel Lamp Shades
32. Pyramid Stars
33. Ellipse Panel Lamp Shades
34. Tiffany Twisted Prism
35. Twisted Panel Lamp Shades
iii
Algorithms (Microsoft Excel)
Design Algorithm (DESIGALG.XLS)
Elliptic Cone Algorithm (ECONE1.XLS)
Conical Algorithm (CONE1.XLS)
Globe Algorithm (GLOBE.XLS)
Bell Algorithm (BELL2.XLS)
Beveled Corner Panel, Pagoda, and Beveled Pagoda Algorithm
(BEVELPAG.XLS)
Curve Algorithm (CURVE.XLS)
Beveled Corner with Uniform Crown Algorithm (BUNIFORM.XLS)
Sconce Algorithm (SCONCE.XLS)
Petal Panel Lamp Shade Algorithm (PETAL.XLS)
Inward Bevel Panel Lamp Shade Algorithm (INBEV.XLS)
Tiffany Pagoda Algorithm (TIFFPAG.XLS)
Tiffany Beveled Corner Pagoda Algorithm (TIFFBCP.XLS)
Mushroom Algorithm (MUSHROOM.XLS)
Low Profile Algorithm (LOWPROFILE.XLS)
Pyramid Star Algorithm (PYRAMID STARS.XLS)
Ellipse Panel Lamp Design Algorithm (ELLIPSE.XLS)
Twisted Panel Lamp Design Algorithm (TWIST.XLS)
iv
Petal Panel Lamp Shade
Inward Bevel Panel Lamp Shade
Prairie Fan Lamp Shade
Mushroom Panel Lamp Shade
Low Profile Panel Lamp Shade
Stellated Panel Lamp Shade
Ellipse Panel Lamp Shade
45 degree Twisted Panel Lamp Shade
Existing literature does not discuss the use of vellum in pattern making.
Existing techniques, such as, bending spider arms and placing electrical
tape on the outside of lamp panels, are tediously laborious.
So I decided to solve these issues. In the Panel Lamp Basic Instructions my purpose
is to provide a generic procedure to create a panel lamp shade. I put specific details,
unique techniques, and helpful suggestions in the Panel Lamp End Notes. The Design
Algorithm allows users to create a panel lamp shade with custom proportions, where
vase caps do fit properly. And finally, Tiffany Style Lamp Shade Making
demonstrates that you can make your own shades without expensive commercial
products. I hope you find my ideas beneficial in your lamp making.
vi
Lamp Patterns
Peacock (Combination)
Winged Pagoda
Low Profile
Petal Panel
Fan Lamp
Christmas Trees
Ellipse
Globe
Lighted Pedestal Mushroom
Prairie
Peacock Stellated
Lamp Patterns
Night Lights
Triple Birdhouse
Bird Feeder
Twisted
Easter Egg
Pyramid Cross
Tiffany Patterns
Elliptic Tulip
Chickadee Birdhouse
Cone Grape
a. Recommend you make a cardboard 6. Soak your glass with vellum in warm
mock up of your shade before you water for a few minutes. Remove the
proceed. See Design Algorithm vellum. Wash any
paragraph 16. glue residue from
the glass. Place the
b. Make two copies of your pattern glass next to the
one for the jig and one for your glass. vellum on a towel to
Use vellum, not writing/copy paper. The dry. Once the glass
vellum will not self-destruct on the dries mark it with a
grinder or in the jig. water soluble
(Sharpie) pen.
c. In addition to labels for individual Transfer the pattern label on the vellum
pieces, use an ink pen to label your to the glass. Then discard the vellum.
1-1
7. Create a jig. Using the whole vellum 10. Place the foiled glass pieces into the
pattern for the jig, glue small pieces of jig. Insure all glass pieces adjacent to
wood (craft/popsicle sticks, tongue the jig are
depressors, or hobby wood all work in firm
well) contact with
along the the jig.
perimeter This will
of your create same
pattern. size panels.
Let the Ever so
glue dry. sparingly
Other flux the
methods of copper foil
creating a seams. Avoid excessive flux seeping
jig are onto the vellum. Solder the seams. I
equally highly recommend using 50-50 solder.
acceptable, It has a higher melting temperature than
such as, 60-40 solder. Consequently, it can take
nailing more heat without dripping through the
wood pieces directly into your work seams. Create a finish bead on all
surface or using the Morton Systems interior seams. Do not solder the panel
blocks and pins. Also create a jig for edge seams. Leave the copper foil un-
multi-piece skirt or crown sections. tinned. Double check the edges of your
panels to insure no solder has spilled
8. Test fit. Place the un-foiled glass onto the edges. Remove any excess
pieces in the jig. Do not force the solder. Remove the panel from the jig
pieces. If the pieces do not fit, re-grind and solder the reverse side. Repeat for
the glass. The accuracy of the vellum all panels.
and use of foil pattern shears should
make for a happy fit of all pieces. 11. Tin or patina the vase cap or spider
or fitter ring.
9. Foil the glass. The grinder creates
glass dust on edges of your glass, so a. For small vase caps (4 inch
wipe off the edges prior to foiling. I diameter or smaller), fitter rings, or spiders
recommend 1/4 inch or 7/32 inch wide polish the metal with fine (0000) steel
foil especially along the panel seams. wool. Remove any lacquer, tarnish, or
During construction the shade will be blemishes. With water wash the vase cap
under some structural stress. Smaller to remove the steel wool residue. Flux
size foils may pull off the glass. Burnish the metal. Use a scant amount of solder
the foil well. Use a razor blade knife to on your iron. Tin the metal by rubbing
trim unsightly overlapping foil. If your iron in a circular motion. Try using
foiling will take a day or more, place the more flux before adding more solder.
foiled glass pieces in an air tight Then add only the tiniest amount of solder
container to prevent oxidation. to your iron as needed. Avoid tinning
1-2
the metal on a wood surface. The wood Snuggly abut each lamp panel to its
will burn because of the heat required. neighbor. Use electrical tape to secure
Hold the metal with pliers or place it on the panels together. Now place your
a non-wood surface (ceramic tile or second board on top of your panels
brick). Tin both sides. Later patina the making a lamp panel sandwich. Tightly
metal when you patina your entire hold your sandwich together and flip it
project. This method can be used for over. Remove the top board. Now the
larger vase caps, but it is difficult to get outside of your lamp panels should be
a smooth finish, because the iron cannot facing up. See Panel Lamp End Notes
keep the vase cap hot enough. A24 for an alternative method. See
Panel Lamp End Notes A18 for four-
b. For larger vase caps, again polish sided lamp shades. As a further
the vase cap with steel wool. Now use a alternative expensive lamp clamps or
patina for angles can be used.
brass. At
the point of 14. Stretch a piece of wire (pre-tinned
attachment 22 or 20 gauge is preferred) long enough
of your to cover the panels top edges. Safety:
glass, When stretching wire between two pair
polish the of pliers,
vase cap with steel wool. Remove the pull the wire
patina at the points of attachment. in a
direction
12. In preparation for joining your away from
panels with electrical tape, clean your your face. If
panels to remove flux. Use a the wire Tack
commercial flux remover. Avoid tearing breaks, the Solder
the untinned foil edges. pliers may
strike any
13. This step requires two boards that object in
are not permanently affixed to your work their path.
surface and are large enough to Cut away
the crimped
ends of Wire
wire. Tack Tail
solder the
wire along
the foiled
top edges of the panels. Avoid soldering
close to each corner (red circles). Leave
a short tail of wire on one end. See
Panel Lamp End Notes A17 for larger
lamp shades.
accommodate your lamp panels. Lay
your lamp panels on one board with the
inside of the lamp panels facing up.
1-3
15. Set aside two or three pieces of seam, if installing a vase cap. Otherwise
electrical tape to temporarily secure the tack solder this
lamp length also. This
panels soldering is not
once you the final beading.
raise It is to structurally
them. stabilize the lamp
Now shade.
slowly lift
the lamp 19. Stretch another piece of wire (pre-
panels tinned 22, 20, or 18 gauge is preferred)
from the long enough to cover the bottom edges
crown to of your panels. Cut away the crimped
form a ends of wire. If your lamp shade will
cone. have a skirt, later place the base wire on
Place the electrical tape between the free the bottom of the skirt. Observe the
panels. Try not to move the lamp shade. safety precaution above concerning the
You may tear the foil. stretching of wire. Alternative edging
materials may include channel, ball
16. Tack solder the wire tail on the top chain, jewelry chain, or pre-twisted wire.
panel edge to the adjacent panel.
20. In order to attach the base wire to
17. Carefully move the panels as the bottom edges of the panels, the lamp
necessary. Inside shade must be turned upside down. I
edges should prefer to use a
align with each cardboard box
other (see lower stuffed with
photo). Tack crumpled
solder the panels newspapers,
together because I will
approximately need the
one inch from the cardboard box
bottom and top later. However,
of the seam. an empty paint can, a round basket, trash
Avoid moving can, bucket, or a bowl will do. First
the lamp shade place the bucket on the shade, then,
on the work holding both together, flip them over.
surface. Move
the work surface
if required.
18. Inspect the lamp shade to insure it is Tin the foil along the bottom edges and
symmetrical. Now tack solder the entire sides. Now tack solder the wire along
length of all seams except for a half inch the bottom edges. Start your
length of seam at the top of the panel.
Tin or flat solder this half inch length of
1-4
wire in the middle of the panel edge, not 24. Position the lamp shade in the
at a corner. Insure the wire is in contact
with the foiled edge no air gaps. Next
place dollops of solder on the wire to
form a nicely beaded edge. Your
soldering iron tip must be very clean to
pick up dollops of solder. I prefer to
install the base wire before I install the
vase cap. The base wire provides
structural stability while I remove the
crown wire in preparation for the vase
cap installation. cardboard box so that one of the panel-
to-panel seams faces up and is
21. Vase Caps. If installing a vase cap horizontal. Place dollops of solder into
or fitter ring, re-orient your lamp on the the seam until it is filled and well
work surface with the crown facing up. rounded. Repeat for all seams. This is
Carefully remove the wire along the top not the final beading. If applicable,
of the panels. Avoid tearing the foil. attach the vase cap or fitter ring to all
Discard the seams. Also fill any interior panel seams
wire. Flux and that intersect the panel-to-panel seams.
tin all foil on
the edge and 25. Place the lamp shade on the work
face of the
glass along the
crown.
Position the vase cap or fitter ring.
Insure it is centered. Tack solder it at
two points.
1-5
27. Re-position the lamp shade in the a. Place a few drops of wax on a
cardboard box with one of the panel-to- cotton ball. With the cotton ball rub all
panel seams horizontal. Flux the seam seams and glass. Do not soak the cotton
and then make the final bead. Start at ball. Excess polish can seep under the
the top of the main panel and slowly seams. If you used cathedral glass with
drag your iron along the seam. Do not black backed foil, you will see the white
loiter or the solder will fall through the polish and will be unable to clean it
seam. A 1/4 inch chisel tip with a 100% away.
80 watt iron (or 80% 100 watt iron)
works well. Orient the chisel tip so the b. Let the wax dry to a dull sheen.
point goes into the seam. You should
not drag the flat side of the chisel along c. Next perform an initial buffing of
the seam or you will create a flat seam. your project with a soft cotton cloth. For
If imperfections occur, go to the next the glass adjacent to the seams I use a
seam while the imperfect seam cools. small flat blade jewelers or computer
After cooling, return to the imperfect screwdriver placed on the discarded hem
seam to make a final bead. In a similar of a cotton T-shirt. This cleans well
manner orient any crown or skirt seams
so they are horizontal. Make a final
bead on the crown and skirt seams.
29. Clean your project with flux and along the seams, especially any adhesive
patina cleaner and then rinse with water. that may have oozed from the foil. Also
Use a tooth brush to scrub all seams a tooth brush will help in those hard-to-
well. Then repeat. This will help get areas.
eliminate a white crusty deposit (the
dreaded white mold) that is a flux d. A final buffing with a soft cotton
residue. Do not use vinegar or other cloth (the inside of discarded sweat
acidic cleaners. Flux and patinas are shirts/pants) will complete your project.
acids. You cannot neutralize an acid
with an acid. For best results use a e. I do polish the inside of the lamp,
commercial product designed to but often omit waxing the inside of the
neutralize and remove flux. vase cap because it can be too difficult to
buff.
30. Patina your project, if you desire.
33. Enjoy a lifetime with your art work!
31. Again clean your project with flux
and patina cleaner. Rinse with water and
let it dry. Avoid soap because it can
leave a film on the glass.
1-6
Attachment A: Pattern Labels
1-7
Panel Lamp End Notes
A1. Glass. color the edges of the vellum with a
marker to
a. Inspect the glass for imperfections create a
and density variations. Mark those areas strong color
with a water soluble marker (Sharpie). contrast.
2-1
pattern line. To assist me in cutting in when gluing the vellum to the glass.
Also note the green line in the photo.
The green line helps align adjacent
Off Center
pieces.
When
you
complete
your
project,
you will
see
the correct direction, I draw arrow heads continuity of the glass grain between
on my pattern lines. pieces. Your
design will have
c. If a pattern line is the center line a flow to it,
between two or more pieces, I draw a rather than
circle on the pattern line. This is a chaos caused by
reminder not different grain
to use foil directions from
pattern shears adjacent pieces
or I will of the same glass.
destroy the
symmetry of A5. When scoring and breaking glass,
my project. Instead I use regular spread a sheet on newspaper down, then
scissors to cut my pattern along center place your work surface on the
lines. You will then see a semi-circle newspaper. By brushing or wiping glass
along the cut side of each pattern piece. debris off the work surface onto the
This semi-circle serves as another
reminder when I am at the grinder. I
will give my glass one or two extra
passes on the grinding bit to remove
1/64 inch of glass beyond the vellum
pattern along the edge with the semi-
circle marking. Now when I put my
glass pieces in the jig, there will be a
1/32 inch space between them. newspaper, your scoring area will
remain clean. Cleanup is easy. Just fold
A4. Design Continuity. Two conditions up the newspaper and discard it. Or use
apply: firstly, two or more adjacent a commercial gridded surface to catch
pieces of glass are the same (color/type); glass shards. Regardless of your surface,
and secondly, the glass has a noticeable it is critical to keep your scoring area
grain. To coordinate your design, mark clean because, glass shards can scratch
with a red ball point ink, the grain your glass.
direction on your vellum pattern piece so
you can align it with the glass grain
2-2
A6. Scoring and breaking concave d. You may wish to try this technique
curves. on a piece of scrap glass before you do it
on an actual project piece. All types of
a. Make several score lines about 1/8 glass can be scored and broken with this
inch apart. See red lines in the photo. technique. But different types of glass
Make all score lines before you attempt
to break the glass. The score lines can
2-3
d. To prevent cuts to your fingers d. To safely remove unsalvageable
while grinding, lightly grind the entire foil on a piece of glass, place the foiled
perimeter edge of your glass pieces.
This will remove the sharp feather of
glass. Once done you can apply more
pressure to complete your grinding.
2-4
f. When using cathedral glass, 374F and freezes at 361F. 63-37
remember to coordinate your foil with solder melts and freezes at 361F.
your patina. If you plan to patina your Consequently, 50-50 solder stays pasty
project black, use black backed foil. over a temperature range of 60F; 60-40
Similarly, if you plan to use no patina solder stays pasty over a temperature
(silver solder), use silver backed foil. range of 13F; and 63-37 solder has no
pasty range. As a result 50-50 solder
A9. Stay on pattern. Begin by placing can take more heat without dripping
all foiled glass pieces in the jig. Position through seams. However, some artists
the foiled glass pieces within their prefer 60-40 solder for its flow-ability
respective jig vellum pattern lines. Do based on its smaller pasty range. 63-37
not tightly abut the foiled glass pieces. solder is best for decorative soldering,
Remember you removed 1/32 inch wide because it melts and freezes at one
strip of the vellum pattern with your foil temperature. Solder choice is a matter of
personal preference, but for beginners,
50-50 solder may be easier.
2-5
e. Initially, tack solder pieces together movement. Use your razor knife to trim
to prevent the pieces from moving. any noticeable deviation.
Place a small
drop of flux at i. If you are unable to complete
intersections, soldering of your lamp shade in one
then tack solder. sitting, cover the lamp shade with a
Pictured is a plastic bag. But first let the lamp shade
flux-filled cool. The bag will prevent dust from
squeeze bottle fouling your solder seams.
with a dropper
tip. Once tack solder, switch to a flux A11. Flux.
brush for the remaining pieces.
a. There are three types of fluxes
f. Wide panel-to-panel seams. If you liquid, gel, and paste. Obviously, liquid
are having difficulty getting solder to flux is less viscous than gel flux.
remain in your panel- Moreover; many, but not all, liquid
to-panel seams, try fluxes are not water soluble; whereas,
putting electrical tape most gel fluxes are water soluble. A
on the underside of water soluble flux is easier to clean up.
the seam to hold Paste flux is often recommended for 3D
solder in place while or lamp projects because it does not run
it cools. Also when applied. However, paste flux
consider placing brass or copper wire, clean up can be more difficult because,
rods, or tubes in the seam. Your final most paste fluxes are not water soluble.
solder bead will conceal these items. In my opinion, I prefer the water soluble
gel flux for my copper foil projects.
g. While soldering foil, small gooey
blobs sometimes appear on you seams, b. If your solder spits, pops, or
especially at intersections or corners. bubbles while soldering, it is not your
These blobs are usually foil adhesive solder. You are using too much flux.
that has leaked into your seam, because To fix the problem continue to solder
of excessive heat from your iron. To and allow the flux to evaporate or
prevent re-occurrences, solder at a faster remove the excess flux with a paper
pace or use a rheostat to lower the towel or tissue.
wattage on your iron. To remove the
blobs, place the point of your razor knife A12. Clean and Patina. Like most
into the blob. Now twirl the razor knife hobbyist, I clean and patina my shades in
to remove the blob and some solder the bath tub. Recommend you work
surrounding it. Be carefully not to over an old bath mat. The mat will
damage the underlying foil. Let the protect the tub and cushion the lamp
seam cool before re-soldering. shade while you move it about. Some
patinas may discolor the bath mat so
h. The point at which your foil make sure you are OK with that.
overlaps itself can loosen during
soldering. Generally, this is a slight
2-6
A13. Safety. e. Replace worn grinding bits and
grinder surface components.
a. Keep your work area clean. Do
not leave glass or open bottles of f. Clean solder tips with sal
chemicals where they can be knocked ammoniac. Do not use a wire brush or a
over. grinding stone. It will remove and
scratch the plating on the tip.
b. Do not eat or drink in your work
area. Glass shards, chemicals, or fumes A15. Vase caps are not your only
may contaminate your food. options. Spiders, fitter rings, and cross
bars are also available.
c. Wash your hands after working
with solder and chemicals. a. Use a spider if you will place a
crown on your lamp. The spider will
d. Wear eye protection. avoid a dark shadow cast by a vase cap
and help illuminate the crown glass.
e. Consider wearing one-size-fits-all
latex gloves, because you will be b. Manufactures label their fitter rings
handling your project often. Gloves will
protect your hands from the flux and
patina that can dry your hands.
c. Check the oil in your glass A16. If you use an incandescent light
cutter. bulb, use a vented vase cap or a vented
fitter. Otherwise excessive heat can
d. Clean grinding bits, the grinder build up and crack your glass.
surface, and sponges. Replace worn
sponges.
2-7
A17. For larger lamps (about four project may tend to flex. Use extra
square feet or about 18 inches in solder on the inside corners or insert a
diameter or larger), tack solder short 1/4 inch long brass rod as a corner brace,
segments of wire (one to two inches in or solder a perimeter wire (the larger
length) along the bottom edges of gauge the better) along the top and
adjacent panels across each seam. Small bottom edges.
gauge wire (22 or 20 gauge) is best. a. In general the shade height is 1/2 to
Place it as close to the bottom of the 1/3 the height of the lamp base. Lamp
bottom edge. Avoid getting solder near bases are measured from the bottom to
the intersection of the panels. This wire the top of the base, which excludes the
needs a bit of room to flex when you lift socket and harp. But verify the
your lamp. Remove and discard the dimensions with your vendor because
wires before attaching the final edge inconsistencies do exist. For those super
wire or skirt. mini lamp bases, the shade height
approaches the height of the base.
A18. Four-sided lamps are easier to
assemble. b. If you want a standard light bulb,
Create a 90 the minimum harp size is 61/2 inches.
degree jig by
nailing c. Harp height is the perpendicular
straight distance from the top of the finial screw
segments of
wood to your
work surface
or by gluing
straight
segments of
wood to a 90 degree corner on a sheet of
paper. Morton System users utilize your to the bottom of the prongs. The harp
blocks and pins. Position two panels in height is generally stamp into the metal
the jig. Tack solder the panels together on the underside of the finial screw. A
about an inch from the top and bottom. saddle, into which the harp is placed,
Leaving the first two panels in the jig, adds approximately another 1/2 inch in
tack solder the third panel in position. height.
Repeat for the fourth panel. Proceed
with the assembly as outlined in the d. For stained glass lamp shades use a
Panel Lamp Basic Instructions. Note: heavy duty harp because of the weight of
If there will not be a vase cap or spider the shade. Avoid the light duty harps
in your project and your panels are which allow too much motion.
rectangular (lantern-like), consider
bracing the inside corners, because the
2-8
e. The shade height should be at or bend the spider arms at an angle to
extend 1/2 inch below the top of the match the slope of your panels. This
lamp base. may take several iterations. Note where
you place your pliers relative to the mark
f. Vase caps also have a height, on the spider arms. It is important to
usually 7/8 inch. So consider this insure you consistently place the pliers at
dimension when determining your shade the same position on each arm. This
height. way the arms will be of equal length and
your spider will be centered in your
g. Where you place a spider also shade. Insure the bent portions of the
affects the shade height. Often spiders spider arms extend one to three inches
are positioned not at the crown, but 1/2 - along the interior seams of your lamp.
1 inch lower in the shade. Cut off any excess spider arms. A
Dremel cut off wheel or hacksaw
h. Suggestion: Make a cardboard works well. Solder the spider in place.
mock up of your shade before you Insure it is centered.
construct it.
Often it is c. Alternative spider installation for
difficult to
visualize a
shade in two
dimensions. I
use cardboard
from cereal
boxes to build
my mock ups. The mock up helps
determine the shades proportions.
Make adjustments as necessary.
2-9
A21. Crown, Skirt, and Collar is to secure all crown pieces together,
Installation. (Collars are rectangular similar to the main panels. Then move
pieces installed between the crown and them in position all at one time for
main body panels.) Place the shade on soldering.
the work surface with the top facing up.
Now holding two crown pieces together A22. A multi-faceted panel lamp shade
position them on the shade to gauge the is constructed by
approximate crown angle. Next take one considering each
crown glass piece, hold it in position at additional row of
glass as a skirt.
Crown Construct the first
row of facets, no
matter how small, just
like a panel lamp
shade. Next add the
second row of facets like you are
constructing a skirt. Repeat for all rows.
For ease of constructability, wait to add
a vase cap or spider or fitter ring until all
rows are tack soldered in place. Each
the crown angle, and tack solder it along row of facets actually increases the
the inside seam. While still holding the structural stability of the shade.
first crown piece in place, if necessary,
with the help of some electrical tape; A23. Joiners. These are pieces of glass
position a second crown piece and tack that fit in between
solder it to the main panel and first two panels and are
crown piece. Also tack solder along the not in the same
inside seams. An extra pair of hands planes of the
would be welcomed. Repeat for all panels. (The
yellow diamond-
shaped glass pieces
on the shade top
are joiners.) To
construct joiner pieces, assemble your
lamp shade without the joiners. Place a
three by five card or similar rigid paper
inside the shade where you will install
your joiner. Make a pattern by tracing
Skirt
the opening and label the pattern. Do
this for each joiner. Surprisingly, not all
crown pieces. Then complete final joiners will be the same despite
beading of all seams. Do not forget to symmetry of your shade. Score, break,
addSkirt
a well beaded wire along the top of grind, foil, and solder your joiners in
the crown edges. A collar or skirt is place.
constructed in a similar manner. An
alternative method using electrical tape
2-10
A24. As an alternative to the sandwich k, and delta, since these values have no
flipping technique, you can place influence on the f value. Remember the
electrical tape on the outside of the lamp crown radius, r, is the diameter divided
panels. However, you must leave a gap by 2. The diameter is the distance from
between panels. The tape must have one vertex (point) to the opposite vertex
enough slack to stretch around the (point) on the vase cap.
outside of the panels. Once the panels
are raised, this technique generally d. If you have already built your lamp
requires adjustment to properly align the shade and your multi-sided vase cap is
panels prior to tack soldering.
c. To calculate the f value using the a. Using a rheostat set your 100 watt
Design Algorithm Program, input the iron between 70% to 80%. If you do not
crown radius, r; the thickness of the have a rheostat, do not loiter on the
glass, t; and the number of panels, n. seams. Excessive heat will loosen the
Ignore the other input values of R, h, j, foil adhesive and may crack the glass.
2-11
b. First remove any wire, vase cap, or b. In case your socket is keyless (does
spider that is attached to the panel you not contain and on/off switch), you may
want to remove.
2-12
base height from the bottom of the
base to the top of the light cluster (not to
the top of the pipe on the light cluster).
Bushing
Finial
Shade Riser
Harp
Base
Height Socket Shell
Socket
Interior with
Silver and
Brass Screws
Cord with
UL Knot
Polarized
Socket Cap
Plug on
Harp Saddle cord
Nut and
Lock washer
1/8 IPS
Threaded
Nipple
Line Switch
(Uninstalled)
2-13
A28. Repair of a broken piece of glass. of the glass. The objective is to make
the score run the depth of the glass and
a. Firstly, identify the manufacturer not to remove the glass. However, some
and type of glass. Note the grain glass may break away.
direction, if applicable. If possible buy
the glass before you start the repairs. e. If applicable, with a Dremel and
Use a light table to view the broken glass
and the replacement glass. You will
always hear the disclaimer that there is
no perfect match, but you can get very
close. Also attempt to identify the type
of solder (50/50 or 60/40 or 63/37 or ?).
When black patina is used on 60/40
solder it appears more bronze-like;
whereas; 50/50 appears blacker.
b. If the broken piece is on the #426 cutting wheel or a came hand saw,
perimeter of cut any reinforcing wire attached to the
your broken piece of glass. Make the cut at
project, the seams between pieces.
trace the
perimeter of f. With a chisel tip on your soldering
the project iron, remove as much solder surrounding
on paper, so the broken piece on the front and back of
you can record its shape. the glass. If possible, hold your project
vertically
c. Wear eye protection! With your so gravity
glass cutter score the smoothest side of can assist
the glass you in
in a cross removing
hatched the solder.
fashion. Do not
Make the loiter with
cross your
hatches soldering iron. Excessive heat can cause
about a other unbroken pieces of glass to crack.
1/4 inch Essentially you are flat soldering the
square. In the photo I marked the cross seams on the broken piece of glass.
hatches with a pen for easy viewing. Remove any attachment points of solder
to came or vase caps. With came you
d. Take the ball end of your glass have a choice. Either cut and remove
the section in contact with the broken
2-14
piece or remove the entire piece of came. pieces. Alternate using the ball on the
Separate the perimeter reinforcing wire glass cutter and the pliers as necessary.
if applicable. Do not forget to flux; it
helps. 2.) If the broken piece is on the
perimeter of the project, use small nosed
g. With your chisel tip soldering iron, pliers to remove pieces starting on the
push the foil on the broken piece of glass outside and working inward. Use the
ball on the glass cutter as necessary. Do
not attempt to remove the foil yet.
2-15
width so you can later use the same size vellum under your project. With a
foil on your replacement piece. mechanical pencil (they have a small
needle tip) trace the opening onto the
j. Inspect the opening, especially the vellum. Do not concern yourself with
edge (not the glass faces) of the glass. re-establishing the 1/32 inch gap created
by foil pattern shears, because the radius
of the pencil tip will create a small offset
gap. Mark the vellum with the glass
grain, if applicable. Label the vellum
orientation as FRONT or BACK.
You should read the label BACK, if
2-16
o. Foil the replacement piece. Use a. Before you purchase mirror glass
the same size foil as the original piece. thoroughly inspect it for damage to the
silvered coating. Hold it up to the light.
p. Place dimes (10) or similar There may be scuff marks on the
backing, but so long as no light
penetrates the backing, the glass is
acceptable.
objects in the opening of your project. c. Paste vellum pattern pieces to the
These items will act as shims so the front of the glass, never on the backing.
replacement piece of glass can be
soldered at the same elevation as the d. Score the glass only on the front
other pieces in your project. face, never on the backing. Insure your
work surface is clean of debris. The
q. Place the replacement piece in the smallest shard of glass can damage the
opening. Flux the seam. Solder the backing.
replacement piece in position. Reinstall
any reinforcing wire if applicable. Re- e. Use your hands to break the glass
install and re-attach came or vase caps along score lines. If you need to use
where applicable. breaking pliers, put sponges or another
cushion-like material in the pliers jaws.
r. Clean, patina, and polish your
project. f. After breaking, spray the backing
again with aerosol mirror edge sealant.
s. It is quite an effort to make repairs
g. Grinding. Use a fine bit. Coarser
bits will cause the backing to flake. If
possible, grind with the backing facing
up. If the backing faces down, do not
put downward pressure on the glass,
because the grinder surface, although
plastic, can damage the backing.
2-17
i. Use the largest possible (black- or temperatures of 80C to 105C (176F to
silver-backed) foil. At least 7/32 inch 221F). Otherwise the adhesive can
wide foil, but 1/4 inch wide foil would melt; thereby, leaving a stick messy that
be even better. The wider foil will is difficult to clean up.
conceal any grinding chips to the
backing and seal the edge from flux and A31. Light bulbs.
patina. Burnish the foil extremely well.
Use caution when burnishing so your fid a. If using clear or cathedral glass,
does not wander and damage the consider using a clear light bulb, rather
backing. than a frosted bulb. The clear bulbs will
not be as obvious as the frosted bulbs.
j. If solder drips onto the backing, do
nothing. If you attempt to remove the b. If you get a hot spot on your shade,
solder, you may damage the baking. use a lower wattage bulb. A hot spot is
You will never see the solder drips from where the intensity of the bulb washes
the front of the glass. out the color of the glass.
2-18
b. When transporting your glass from k. Grind in a smooth continuous
your retailer, each individual sheet of motion from right to left. Grind on the
glass should be wrapped in paper or
bubble wrap.
h. While grinding do not put grinding causes the most scratches. The
downward pressure on the glass. best technique to prevent scratches is to
apply packaging tape on the glass face in
i. At the grinder use a squirt bottle contact with the grinder surface. Apply
(contact lens bottle) to wash glass grit the tape to your glass and trim the excess
away from the bit area. tape with a razor knife. Then proceed to
grind.
j. Insure your grinder reservoir is full
of water. While grinding there should n. When soldering insure your work
be plenty of water on the bit so that glass surface is clean. Do not slide your glass
grit is washed into the reservoir. pieces over your work surface.
2-19
o. After removing the vellum pattern e. Avoid creating pieces with narrow
let the glass pieces dry on a clean towel.
If you do dry your pieces, use a clean
and soft towel.
2-20
in your solder seams. But insure the a. The lamp bit bevels the glass edge
reinforcement extends between opposite so that the panel-to-panel seam width is
sides of your project. The stained glass reduced.
literature is understandable vague
concerning how large a copper foil b. However, do not use a lamp bit
project must be before you use internal when using a vase cap or fitter ring. The
reinforcement. Who is crazy enough to lamp bit will also reduce the crown
spend hundreds of thousands of dollars radius, causing the vase cap or fitter ring
building stained glass panels only to to be ill-fitted. A spider is the best
destroy them? But most literature says choice when using a lamp bit.
you should consider internal
reinforcement at about two to three feet c. The 18 degree lamp bit (bottom
in one dimension. In fact some literature portion of the lamp bit).
says the maximum copper foil panel
should be no larger than 36 by 36. 1.) This bit is beveled to produce
Have you seen a larger one? In any an exact alpha angle needed for a 10-
event perimeter came is a must and sided shade (n = 10).
coupled with internal reinforcement your
large panels should survive. In my 2.) However, many retailers
opinion, it is well worth the time and recommend this bit for 12-sided or less
money to properly reinforce a very shades. While the fit is not exact, it will
expensive project as large a 36 by 36. reduce somewhat the width of your
Imagine the cost to repair an improperly panel-to-panel seams.
reinforced large panel.
3.) When using this bit, the outside
h. When making curves, be aware of or viewing side of your glass must face
their diameters and your ability to grind up. This method only applies to
or to cut those diameters. While traditional panel lamp shades with a
grinding polygon base. It is not applicable to
bits come pleated shades to include fan lamp
in many shades.
sizes, you
may not 4.) Of course only bevel the glass
have the edge along the panel-to-panel seam.
bit size to
cut the d. The 9 degree lamp bit (top portion
curve. Also consider that foil tends to of the lamp bit).
tear when burnished around a 1/4 inch
diameter curve whose circumference is 1.) This bit is beveled to produce
more than a quarter circle. In general an exact alpha angle needed for a 20-
design curves no smaller than a 1/4 inch sided shade (n = 20).
in diameter.
2-21
2.) However, many retailers
recommend this bit for 15-sided or more
shades. While the fit is not exact, it will
reduce somewhat the width of your
panel-to-panel seams.
2-22
Attachment A: Lamp Bit 9/18
2-23
Attachment B: Shade with a Vase Cap
2-24
Attachment C: Shade with a Spider
2-25
Attachment D: Shade with a Light
Cluster
2-26
Design Algorithm
1. The purpose of this algorithm is to information. Regardless of the number
design a panel lamp shade with custom of panels you select, coordinate your
proportions and a well fitted vase cap or selection with your choice of vase cap,
fitter ring. spider, fitter ring, or cross bar.
b. Item 2: Select a shade base radius, h. Item 8: Select the skirt inclination
R, in inches. The radius is the diameter angle, delta, in degrees. See the sketch
divided by 2. at Attachment A. To vertically align the
skirt, use delta = 0. This will create
c. Item 3: Select the shade crown rectangular skirt panels that are vertical
radius, r, in inches. If using a multi- to the ground. Or to incline the skirt
sided vase cap, see paragraph 11. If inward toward the center of the shade,
using a square or rectangular vase cap, input a negative number in degrees.
see paragraph 13. Conversely, a positive number in
degrees will flare the skirt outward.
d. Item 4: Select the number of
panels, n. If you select an odd number 4. In order to make a pattern of the
of panels, insure it is a multiple of three, main panels use graph paper and the
because only a three-way spider will fit a values of f, g, and i. Locate the corner
lamp with 3, 9, 12, 15 etc. panels. There points and create a trapezoid (lamp
is a five-sided vase cap, but it is rare. A panel). For the crown use the values of
circular vase will fit any odd number of f, c, and d. For a skirt use the values of
panels, but see paragraph 7 for further
3-1
e, q, and u. See sketches (Attachments make a cardboard mock up to validate
B and C) at the end of this chapter. your design, because as r decreases
smaller n values are possible.
5. For a standard rectangular vase cap
(31/4 x 73/4) use the values of f, g, and i 8. For aesthetic symmetry, this
for the small panels. Use the values of algorithm uses the same inclination
x, g, and i for the large panels. The angle for the crown and main panel. If
input value, R, is the radius that would you desire to increase the crown's flare,
be created by the four small panels. increase the length of the crown top, b.
Recommend you make a card board Conversely, to decrease the crown's
mock up to validate your design. See flare, decrease the length of the crown
the sketch at Attachment B. top, b.
3-2
rings measure the diameter and divide by Recommend you measure the actual
2 to obtain the radius. dimension to verify the actual size of the
vase cap before using the r value below.
12. Many output values in 16ths are
rounded. For lamp shades with multi- c. For standard square or rectangular
sided vase caps, accuracy to a 16th of an vase caps use the r values below.
inch may not be enough. Recommend
you use the values in inches to two 13/4 (15/8) Square: r = 1.15625
decimal places or in centimeters to one 27/8 (2-3/4) Square: r = 1.875
decimal place. 31/4 x 73/4 Rectangular: r = 2.213
13. Again vendors are inconsistent in 14. For best design results, first obtain
labeling square vase caps.
from opposite side-to-opposite side. your lamp base or swag kit or canopy
Recommend you measure the actual assembly, bulbs, electrical components,
dimension to verify the actual size of the and mounting hardware (especially vase
vase cap before using the r value below. caps, fitter rings, spiders, and cross
bars). Next take measurements from
b. The 27/8 square vase cap is often your lamp fixture to determine r, R, and
labeled 23/4. The label notwithstanding, h. Then keystroke those values into the
the actual dimension should be 213/16 Design Algorithm Program. It can be
exasperating to find the proper lamp
base, if you build the shade first. So first
obtain the lamp base. Furthermore, the
style of the lamp base will dictate the
style (Victorian, Mission, Abstract, etc.)
of the shade.
3-3
15. If you need to bend spider arms c. Construction of a cardboard mock
(Lamp Panel End Notes A20b), first up.
make a template of the angle on paper.
Draw an angle equal 180 - beta. Then 1.) With childrens stick glue, paste
cut the angle out of paper. Hold the a paper photo copy (not vellum) pattern
template against the bent spider arms to to cardboard (cereal box type cardboard)
verify the correct angle. or poster board.
16. Cardboard mock ups. Whether your 2.) With scissors cut the cardboard
pattern is an pattern along its perimeter. Do not cut
off-the-shelf individual pattern pieces.
design or one
you create 3.) Place masking tape on the
yourself, I inside face of the cardboard panels.
highly Continue taping panel to panel until you
recommend have a cardboard shade. Add a
making a cardboard skirt and/or crown if
cardboard mock necessary.
up prior to creating a stained glass shade.
d. A cardboard mock up is a quick,
a. The mock up can validate the easy, and inexpensive method to
design proportions. guarantee your satisfaction with your
This is very helpful pattern.
in determining the
aesthetic marriage of
the shade with the
lamp base. Have a
friend hold the
cardboard mock up
in position over a
lamp base. If it does
not look good to
you, change some or
all the input values of the Design
Algorithm Program to change your
shades proportions. 17. Alpha angle jig. Many shade types
in the next several chapters require you
b. Do not use the cardboard mock up to make an alpha angle jig. But what if
to judge the proper fit of a vase cap or you want to use an off-the-shelf design?
fitter ring. The cardboard mock up The alpha angle is only influenced by
replicates the inside of the lamp shade the number of main panels in your lamp.
panels. Whereas, the vase cap or fitter So ignore all other input values, except n
ring aligns with the outside of the lamp in the Design Algorithm Program
shade panels. The reason for the (DESIGNALG.XLS). The output value
difference is that the glass is much in item #9, vertex angle, will provide
thicker than the cardboard. you the alpha angle value in degrees.
3-4
Some common alpha angle values for n
panels are:
n = 4 Alpha = 90
n = 6 Alpha = 120
n = 8 Alpha = 135
3-5
Attachment A:
3-6
Attachment B:
3-7
Attachment C:
3-8
Copyright 2006 Michael Curtis Thomas. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication and software may be reproduced, stored, or
transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
recording, or otherwise, without the prior permission of the
copyright owner.
Value in Value in
Main Panel Calculations 16ths Centimeters
9. Vertex angle (degrees). alpha = 120.0
Crown Calculations
21. Length of crown base (inches). f= 1.811 1 13/16 4.60
Skirt Calculations
26. Length of skirt top (inches). e= 6.811 6 13/16 17.30