Book of Best Practices

WATERPROOFING PRODUCTS
&
TECHNICAL INFORMATION
DO IT ONCE-DO IT RIGHT-FIXED FOR GOOD
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
The Waterproofing membrane systems that are designed and installed today
are aimed at protecting building and structures from the effects of water
ingress.
This script is designed to widen your awareness of waterproofing products,
their capacities and their induction routines and methods, as to emphasize
the importance of waterproofing systems within the construction industry.
The building industry is a fast and cost driven industry and unless the
construction company can offer the customer a quality product they may
discover it difficult to compete in the construction marketplace.
When it comes to waterproofing contractors and products we have to
assume that price comes before quality?
John Blase is a passionate person with over 30 years experience within the
building and waterproofing industry.
A boiler maker for five years, thirteen years with Humes ARC and Smorgons
steel in supplying reinforced steel to major projects in Brisbane and on both
coasts. Nine years as a waterproofing applicator which included running and
organizing high rise projects, hot roll and pour installations, sheet and liquid
membrane installations?
Five years as the QLD waterproofing Manager for Ardex Australia, four years
as General Manager for Bayset Enterprises, which included a continuation of
the report and specification writing for builders, applicators and Architects.
John Blas is Trade qualified and holds a certification four which allows for
the training of waterproofing applicators and their apprentices in Qld.
My true aim is to provide a better and more professional waterproofing
industry with contractors as to install the correct waterproofing systems
without compromising the integrity of the waterproofing, or the structure.
This book will offer you a complete range of waterproofing products with
best practices and correct technical information in todays market place.
REMEMBER
NOBODY IS AN EXPERT
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Why waterproofing is
A Risky Business
THE INFORMATION CONTAINED IN THIS BROCHURE IS TO,
Broaden your awareness of waterproofing products and their installation
procedures.
To emphasize its importance on the building site.
The pros and cons of the different types of membranes of our markets today.
For most people, waterproofing is an impervious barrier which is designed to
prevent water from entering or escaping from a part of a structure or
sections of a building.
Waterproofing practices date back to the days of Noahs Ark, the 40 days of
rain that prepared the people to take some form of action to stop water
entering their dwelling and habitats.
People then used hay, leaves, mud or clay mixed with grass or hay to form a
waterproof barrier to stop the flow of water entering.
It is difficult, but not impossible, to conduct strictly honest

business
-Mahatma Gandhi
THE IMPORTANCE OF WATERPROOFING

The real importance of waterproofing reflects on the consequences of NOT
waterproofing. Water damage is second only to fire as a cause of building
decay and deterioration in Australia, even
Government divisions like the CSIRO state that building materials we use
have a considerably shorter life span when subjected to moisture or water
emersion over a period of time.
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Water that enters a structure by default has immediate and long term
effects. Apart from water damage to the structure and its contents,
structural damage is unavoidable if the problems are constant.
Water damage causes rotting of timber and timber finishes, corrosion of

metals and reinforced steel, swelling of Gyprock and plasterboards,
electrical hazards, blistering of paint, deterioration of building facades,
rotting carpets, and health problems due to dampness and Mold.
With all the problems we have with waterproofing the importance of

waterproofing can never be overstated or overstated.
THE MEMBRANES
We mainly have two types of waterproofing membranes.
Sheet membranes, and liquid applied membranes.
Each has its own characteristics which also comes with its own problems.
As we say in the building industry, the membranes are only as good as the
installer.
THE MEMBRANE ROLE

To achieve waterproofing; a membrane must firstly be impermeable to
prevent water entering or escaping. Must be flexible and accommodate
normal building movement. Be durable and be able to retain its integrity over
a long period of time, and be able to lend itself to design details in the
building and be suitable for that specification. Some instances, the
membrane will need to breathe to allow moisture and vapor to escape, be
compatible with tile adhesives, renders, paints, and other building products,
and provide a continuous film without weakness to withstand environmental
and climatic conditions.
Waterproofing has become simple with contractors due to the programmed
intellect by Australian standards and manufacturers.
We now have so many products and manufacturers either producing or
importing waterproofing products that the products outweigh the knowledge
and experience within the industry.
FOR ALL, WATERPROOFING MEMBRANE SYSTEMS TO WORK AS INTENDED

SHOULD BE INSTALLED TO FALLS AND CROSS FALLS.
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SHEET MEMBRANES
Bitumen torch applied membranes.
PVC membranes
Bentonite membranes
TPO membranes
EPDM membranes
Self adhesive membranes
Butynol membranes
Photovoltaic membranes
ADVANTAGES
Can be loose laid or fully bonded
Guaranteed thickness
Cover joints, cracks and imperfections in the substrate
Quick to install and remove
It has good insulating properties and is very resilient
To offer long term security
Good durability with weathering in all climates
The materials do not break down
DISADVANTAGES
Terminations and flashing
Lap joints
Compatible with other building products
Roots and vegetation
Should simply be applied as a roofing and below ground membrane
system?
LIQUID MEMBRANES
Acrylic membranes
Latex membranes
Cement-based membranes, including additives
Polyurethane membranes
Epoxy-based membranes
Bitumen membranes
Plural component membranes
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ADVANTAGES
Semi-Flexibility
Are fully bonded and monolithic
Can be UV Stable and have the ability to breathe
Easy and simple to apply
Are a homogenous layer
Easy to detail and flash
Some are easy to repair and re-coat
Cost effective systems
Some are able to accommodate negative pressures
DISAVANTAGES
Most are easily damaged
Coating thickness varies
Sensitive to humidity and weathering
Poor bonding to substrates if not prepared correctly
Chemical residue contamination can result
Short lifespan when left uncovered
Building movement
Compatibility issues with other building products
Polyurethane membranes shall be in limited in their role in the succeeding two

years due to their incompatibility with tile adhesive and other building finishes.
WHY DO WE HAVE PROBLEM?

Australian standards are poor and interpreted differently by many
people.
Limited Expertise and knowledge within the Waterproofing industry.
Too many Waterproofing products on the market.
Lack of technical knowledge by Manufacturers and their
representatives.
Lack of supervision by waterproofing contractors.
Too many tilers waterproofing.
Too many builders waterproofing their own work.
Programmed intellect
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WHO IS RESPONCIBLE
WE ALL ARE.
Government bodies and legislation.
Builders.
Designers.
Manufacturers of Waterproofing Products.
Waterproofing Contractors.
Tilers.
WHAT CAN WE DO?

Appoint a Waterproofing Consultant for the project.
Waterproofing Considerations at the conception level.
Use waterproofing contractors with ten or more years experience.
Implement a Quality Assurance program.
Use the same waterproofing Contractors for each Project.
Apply the same waterproofing products for that special application.
(Put systems in place)
All of the above mentioned will reduce the risk considerably.
Only use tilers that have a separate waterproofing certification or
license.
SUMMARY
Waterproofing has grown significantly over the past ten years, making more
people aware of just how important and significant waterproofing need to be
within the building industry. Waterproofing is a critical component of all
building structures and the ramifications of failing to waterproof, or
waterproof inadequately can be a staggering cost to a builder.
LEAVE WATERPROOFING WITH EXPERIENCED

PEOPLE, NOT KNOWLEDGEABLE PEOPLE
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LIFT PITS
Lift pits are constructed in two ways, a blinding lift pit or a constructed lift
pit. The blinding lift pit is constructed and tanked from the ground up usually
with a sheet membrane system are quite simple to tank.
The erected lift pit has already been built from masonry block, concrete or
tilt panel construction. If excess is comfortable, they are all easily tanked.
Blinding lift pit
Shall always be a sheet membrane system, preferably a two layered torch

applied bitumen membrane which is terminated by a pressure seal or a
reglet.
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Masonry block and concrete
Should always be a two-part cement based system such as Mapelastic Smart

or Mapelastic Foundation installed as below
Comments,
We would always recommend tanking the inside of the lift pit as per the
external tanking.
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BASEMENT WATERPROOFING
At the present time there are no waterproofing standards in place for below
ground waterproofing or tanking. What we do have is a product knowledge
base of manufacturers, and best practice guidelines and processes.
Most basements will suffer from water ingress in their life time.
There really has not been a waterproofing membrane system designed for
underground or blindside tanking.
Many manufacturers have tried with different membrane systems, but all
have failed?
This is not really the membranes fault, as the biggest issue is the membrane
systems installed under and around basements are really designed for
basement applications due to drainage systems and the design of the
basements.
Products such as bitumen sheet membranes, swellable bentonite, HDPE,
PVC, concrete additives and spray applied membranes have all been used
for blindside and basement tanking in Australia.
Have any been successful; NO
There is not a membrane system on the market designed to protect a
basement FULLY from moisture or water ingress as each basement is
designed and constructed differently and with different situations.
Some basements will be fine with two or three coats of a waterproof
membrane, while others may need a waterproof membrane and a drainage
system put in place.
We understand that waterproofing is required when a structure is built at
ground level or below ground. Ground water is likely to build up in the soil
and this causes the water table to rise, and the higher the water table the
more hydrostatic pressure is exerted underneath and around the basement
floors and walls. Hydrostatic pressure will force water through crack and
joint in a basement, including openings caused by expansion and
contraction, especially in the footing-foundation wall, floor joints, and also
cracks or expansion joints in floor areas. Hydrostatic pressure can create
major structural damage to basement foundations and walls and will also
cause mold, concrete decay and other moisture related problems
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WHAT IS THE ANSWER?
Control water flow by establishing the correct drainage system for the
particular volume of water, install a double wet wall system with internal
spoon drains. Membrane system externally as to decrease water ingress.
BEST PRODUCTS FOR UNDER-SLAB WATERPROOFING

RIMPROOF
PREPRUFE
BENTONITE
APP/SBS TORCH APPLIED BITUMEN MEMBRANES
A sheet applied membrane system will give the builder a far more secure
waterproofing system under the slab.
Where we throw the issues when establishing these types of membrane

systems is the amount of detailing that is taken to build the structure
All penetrations in these sheet systems will be the weak link of the
membrane system as they cannot be terminated as a sheet membrane
should be?
Most sheet membrane systems are best suited for protecting roof areas, and
yet manufacturers use the same membrane system in other areas where it
may not be better accommodated.
Architects and Engineers specify waterproofing products for large projects

by only reading data sheets, or talking to the manufacturers representatives
who actually are not experienced enough to give the correct information.
All waterproofing membranes are designed for one purpose and one purpose
only, to keep water from entering the building or structure.
My advice to you all is, use waterproofing products that deliver a long and
durable history.
Below is a list of waterproofing membranes that are currently on the market

today for waterproofing under the building.
The term for this type of waterproofing is commonly known as blinding or
envelope waterproofing.
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After many technological advances in waterproofing products and building
design and there technics, we still have not managed to to make basements
watertight from the ingress of water.
This is not always due to the effectiveness or lack of the waterproofing
systems and products being provided by manufacturers, but the increasing
complexity of the building and a disregard for basic waterproofing principles.
Water and moisture are the most destructive force on concrete, masonry and
natural stone building in Australia and without a permanent waterproofing
system the integrity and the life cycle of the building can severely be
compromised.
Good products can be sold by honest advertising. If you

dont think the product is good, you have no business to be
advertising it.
David Ogilvy
UNDERGROUND DRAINAGE
Underground drainage is really significant as water drainage systems must
accommodate hydrostatic pressures and constantly changing water tables.
The builder must have an appropriate below ground drainage system in place
to control the water conditions that are present beneath the earth, and
above the ground to minimize water away from the foundations and walls of
the basement.
In some cases clay based membranes such as Bentonite systems require

water to maintain its waterproofing properties and their performance when
used in blinding situations.
Bentonite or clay based membrane systems are not best

suited for brick or block work structures.
Water comes from two sources only; ground water, and surface water.
For all waterproofing membrane systems to work as intended, the control

and diversion of water are an imperative key in the design of the building.
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Drainage systems must also be designed and have the ability to
accommodate the rise in water due to rain or natural capillary action of soils.
The design of any drainage system is very important for the membrane
systems chosen to work effectively as to remain durably in the life cycle of
the building.
We are not talking about protecting the membrane system here, this is the
responsibility of the waterproofing contractor, the final drainage system is
discussed between the plumber and the builder.
Conventional drainage such as Aggie drains perform poorly as over time they
fill with silt, soil and plant roots which will eventually clog the drainage
causing more pressure on the membrane system.
There are now more acceptable drainage systems on the market now, but
the cost always out performs quality when it comes to draining water away
from structures.
Water control is imperative and with the correct drainage systems installed
behind walls, they will give exceptional drainage facilities, especially when
concrete slabs are skinny or masonry block work is used.
A good drainage system shall provide protection for the

waterproofing membrane system, and will also reduce
hydrostatic pressures.
The advantage of installing a superior drainage system is that it saves on
backfilling with expensive gravel or blue-stone, gives superior protection for
the membrane system, and provides a quick channel for water to escape
quickly and effectively.
We dont recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane

and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen
EDUCATION IS WHEN YOU READ THE FINE PRINT. EXPERIENCE IS WHAT

YOU GET IF YOU DONT.
-PETER SEEGER
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BEST DETAIL FOR BLINDING MEMBRANES
Whether the walls are sheet piling or secant piles, the membrane system
chosen should turn up the face walls at least 500mm above the height of the
main slab.
We would always advise the builder that a spoon, drain be installed in the
internal basement perimeter with appropriate drainage.
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Builders also put great faith in the ability of water-stops in providing a
complete water seal at all concrete junctions.
WATER-STOPS
WATER STOP HISTORY
Sealing joints in concrete have not changed much since the early 1940`s as
PVC (polyvinyl chloride) water stops is still being used today to stop water
passing through the joints.
Each year in Queensland millions of dollars are spent on secondary

waterproofing products to stop water penetration into property. Why do we
have this problem?
The most common problem with PVC water stops is that they are not
successful in their ability to provide for expansion and contraction nor a
continuous barrier against water penetration through the joint as they are
difficult to install and secure and easily displaced during concrete
placement.
Water stops are elements of concrete structures which are intended to
prevent the passages of water when installed the correctly. All water stops
must be installed continuously through the concrete joints and in a straight
line as to work effectively in the joint.
Water stops are manufactured from numerous products which include
extruded plastics such as flexible polyvinyl chloride, which is PVC,
polyethylene PE, or thermoplastic vulcanized rubber TPO.
Other materials that are in use for water stops are styrene butadiene natural
rubber, neoprene rubber, Chloroprene rubber, hydrophilic modified bentonite
systems.
Hydrophobic water stops such as PVC, and rubber are supplied in coils and
are generally between 180 mm and 250 mm wide with a variety of profiles
that interlock when concrete is installed.
These profiles lock into the concrete which allow for limited movement
within the joint and are installed in a continuous line within the concrete
joint. When the PVC needs to change direction or be joined a thermoplastic
heat welding machine is used incorporating a jig, to join the PVC together.
There are mainly two types of PVC water stops, ribbed or center bulb.
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Ribbed are mainly used centrally in non-working joints as they can only
accommodate for small amounts of transverse movement within the control
joint.
Centre bulb water stops have a bulb in the middle to accommodate for all
joint configurations, including expansion joints, where the c entire bulb
should never be covered with concrete.
The larger the bulb in the middle of the PVC water stops the better the
movement capabilities are for the joint to expand.
Joints that need PVC water stops need to meet certain criterias before
installation such as type of joint, placement, hydrostatic pressure, reo bar
position, concrete thickness and slump, chemical resistance, and joint
movement.
This is why an Engineer should specify PVC water stops in joints.
THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF PVC WATER STOPS.

Hard to install
Most PVC water stops are limited with the expansion and contraction of
concrete and this will cause the PVC water stop to split.
Concrete has issues adhering to concrete.
Joints have to be welded on site which is very difficult and never done
correctly.
Problems with warping in concrete.
PVC water stops have a higher rate of failure over swell able water stops.
Conclusion:
With the different types of water stops on the market today, it is wise to
choose the right one for that particular construction. Construction time lines
and budget are the key considerations when choosing water stops, but if you
choose the wrong one you jeopardize the structure if the joint leaks.
HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS

Hydrophilic water stops first came to light in the 90`s and are strips which
are modified with hydrophilic additives like bentonite (montmorillonite)
encased by polyisobutylene rubber so they swell in the presence of water to
seal
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Bentonite water stops can swell up to 15 times its dry volume when in
contact with fresh water, but the swelling is much less in salt water, around
4 times its dry volume. Bentonite water stops must be kept dry before and
after installation as exposure to moisture or rain can cause the bentonite to
swell and warp as it swells prematurely which will weaken the concrete and
joint when concrete is poured. As with the PVC water stop bentonite water
stops can be displaced or damaged during the concrete pour so care is to be
taken by the contractor when water stops are put in place.
As with most hydrophilic water stops they eventually dry out and will
disintegrate due to their wet/dry cycles making them less suitable in wet
environments.
URETHANE WATER STOPS

Like bentonite, urethane water stops are spongy hydrophilic compounds that
when exposed to water swell up to 350% of their original volume to form a
seal in the joint. They have the same issues as bentonite water stops above,
but have the ability to cause concrete blow outs and concrete to crack.
As with most hydrophilic water stops they eventually dry out and will
disintegrate due to their wet/dry cycles making them less suitable in wet
environments.
THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS

Easy application, with no welding.
Swelling and shrinking are reversible procedures.
They expand to every crack and cavity.
They are more suitable for fresh water
Can be reinforced with stainless wire mesh to stop snaking,
They are not suitable for expansion joints
Swell prematurely if rained on or ground is moist or wet.
Can be displaced if not installed correctly.
Can fail if cement slurry gets between the water stop and the concrete
Have limited dry/wet cycles and will disintegrate in time.
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Conclusion:
Bentonite water stops are here to stay as they are much easier to install, and
with the proper attention they can offer easy and reliable waterproofing
solutions for a short time.
Summary
It is my opinion that hydrophilic/urethane water stops are much easier to

install and work a little better in the joints if installed correctly, they do not
handle movement well, salt water delays and will decrease swelling
performance, and they have limited wet/dry cycles before they fall apart.
PVC water stops have been around much longer and if installed correctly
work more efficiently and are the true guaranteed water stops.
My opinion is that; MOST PVC WATER STOPS PERFORM AT 75%

BEFORE FAILURE, WITH 50% FOR THE SWELLABLE WATER-
STOPS.
BASEMENT WALL WATERPROOFING

Every waterproofing contractor should know water penetration causes
damage by vapor transmission through porous surfaces by direct seepage
thats is in a liquid state.
Basements structures are usually constructed for the use of car parking
facilities for the tenants/owners of the building or their customers.
The waterproofing membranes must be different from the waterproofing
membranes we use above ground due to the severity of the water conditions
and exposure to hydrostatic pressures and changing water tables.
Drainage systems are also important when choosing a membrane system for
basement wall waterproofing.
Large basement structures should recommend diversion drainage systems as
to accommodate ground and surface water during rain or when a water table
is present that may occur Hydrostic problems.
In my opinion, below ground basement wall waterproofing whether it is
masonry block, brick or concrete should be with a cement-based product.
There are mainly only two cementitious membrane systems available in
Australia, chemical capillary waterproofing systems such as Xypex, Penetron
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and Aquafin, Acrylic/polymer modified systems such as Mapelastic
Foundation or Gripset C-1P.
BEST PRODUCTS FOR BASEMENT CONCRETE

AND MASONRY WALLS
Modified Acrylic/polymer cementitious membrane systems are effective in
both positive and negative situations and become an integral part of the
concrete substrate.
BEST PICKS ARE AS FOLLOWS;

1. Mapelastic Foundation.
POSITIVES NEGATIVES
Can be applied to a damp substrate Limited movement capabilities
Tenacious bond to concrete &
masonry Mixing required on the job
Can be reinforced with mesh Curing issues in warm weather
Positive and negative Installations Hairline cracking in junctions
Have a DFT of 2mm Do not work well with Polyurethane
sealants
Handle damp and wet cycles Need to be weighed on site
Semi-flexible
15mt head negative pressure
2. Gripset C-1P
Single part mixed with water Mixing required on-site
Tenacious bond to concrete & Curing issues in warm weather
masonry
UV stable Limited movement capabilities
Can be reinforced with mesh 21 days for full immersion in water
Potable water Hairline cracking in junctions
Have a DFT of 1.5mm to 2.5mm May need to be primed
Handle damp and wet cycles
15mt head of negative pressure
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RETAINING WALLS
As I have mentioned in basement waterproofing there is no waterproofing
standard for retaining walls other than best practice guidelines and an
understanding of waterproofing below ground.
Residential waterproofing is no different to commercial waterproofing other
than most residential builders do not recognize or understand the
waterproofing standards that are presented in the National Building code of
Australia.
The residential market is crowded with one-man bands, tilers who consider
themselves to be waterproof contractors, and builders who need to save
money and install the waterproofing themselves.
Most retaining walls are constructed with masonry blocks which are
reinforced with steel reo-bars and corefilled.
These masonary walls in my opinion fall into two categories;

1. Critical masonry walls constructed below ground in a car basement
area, living or garage areas, or areas used for storage.
2. Noncritical masonry walls above ground that are separating two

properties by a pathway, masonry walls that need to be rendered or
painted.
SLAB EDGE DAMPNESS
These masonry block walls will need to be waterproofed just like commercial
basement block walls, making sure to waterproof the entire footing as to
eliminate slab edge dampness.
Poor site drainage or stormwater discharge which allows water to pond
against the slab/footing will have an effect if the membrane is not returned
down the face of the footing, even soil adjacent to the slab/footing which is
damp or wet will again cause slab edge dampness.
Inadequate waterproofing or drainage in these critical areas will cause
moisture to ingress behind a poorly installed drainage or membrane system.
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INCORRECT WATERPROOFING
CORRECT WATERPROOFING
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In most cases footing and block walls will be damp so a membrane system
designed for this installation is a cement-based waterproofing membrane
system such as Mapelastic Foundation, or Gripset C-1P.
Polyurethane membrane systems below ground should be primed with an
epoxy primer making sure the primer extends past the finished membrane
system as not to allow moisture to capillary under the polyurethane
membrane causing the membrane to delaminate.
POLYURETHANE MEMBRANES DO NOT LIKE MOISTURE OR
DAMP FOOTING.
Bitumen membranes or bitumen emulsions can be installed on a damp

surface, but in most cases will need 5-7 days curing before backfilling is
allowed.
MY OPINION, ALWAYS USE A MODIFIED ACRYLIC POLYMER CEMENT-BASED
MEMBRANE SYSTEM.
ONLY THE WISEST AND STUPIDEST OF MEN NEVER CHANGE.
-CONFUCIUS
PROTECTION
It is critical that All waterproofing membrane systems installed below ground

level shall be protected from the dangers of backfilling materials which may
contain sharp objects that may damage or penetrate the membrane system.
In times past a strong geofabric was used to protect membranes below
ground, then the rise of PP coreflute which is mainly 3mm thick with a
weight of between 300-350 gsm.
Envirotech has Prodrain as we dont recommend PP Coreflute boards as they
sweat between membrane and PP Coreflute which may cause issues with the
membrane system chosen
BETTER PROTECTION PROPERTIES.

For better protection and drainage benchmarks, Prodrain or Gutterbeta is
also available from Envirotech.
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RECOMMENDED RETAINING WALL
MEMBRANES
Critical retaining walls
Mapelastic Foundation
Mapelastic Smart
Gripset C1P
Bostik Dampsheild PU
Multiply layer torch applied bitumen membranes
Noncritical retaining walls
Mapei Plastimul
Gripset C1P
Mapelastic Smart
Plastimul
MEMBRANE PROTECTION & DRAINAGE
In all cases the protection of the membrane system has been just as critical
as the membrane itself.
If clean backfill is to be used, Prodrain is recommended as We dont
recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane and PP
Coreflute which may cause issues with the membrane system chosen
Gravel, rock or uncleaned fill the membrane should be covered with a more
robust protection such as Guttabeta drainage or Prodrain drainage to protect
the membrane system from penetration or sharp objects.
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CORRECT DRAINAGE INSTALLATION
It is critical that all drainage systems be installed to best practices as below;
AGGIE DRAIN.
Must be installed below the footing as below;
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GUTTABETA & PRODRAIN INSTALLATION
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NON-CRITICAL RETAINING WALLS
These retaining walls are constructed of masonry block which need to be
waterproofed to prevent chemical and pollution attack.
The non-critical retaining wall is mostly above ground level, but may act as a
retainer on one side and left exposed on the other side.
When concrete or masonry is left exposed it suffers from our weather which
is called carbonation.
Carbonation attacks and deteriorates concrete as water mixed with
pollutants in the air called carbon dioxide.
This phenomenon decreases the alkalinity within concrete and as steel
reinforcement relies on the protection of high alkalinity that comes from the
concrete, once the alkalinity is reduced by carbon acid, concrete and steel
will start to deteriorate.
The retaining wall must be waterproofed on the side backfilling is to take
place as to minimize water penetration through to the exposed wall that may
be rendered or painted.
This membrane system is classified as non-critical, so a more inexpensive
membrane system may be applied such as Mapei Plastimul, Mapelastic
Smart, or Gripset C-1P.
Protection of the membrane is still required and an Aggie drain installed to
minimize water behind the wall.
On the open side of the wall it is always best to waterproof before applying
the render coat as renders tend to crack due to thermal movement.
We must install a membrane system that will be compatible with the renders
coating that is to be applied after membrane installation.
Rockcote or Active Building Systems have a complete and guaranteed
system which will render and waterproof the wall.
It is imperative that the top of the walls is waterproofed with the render coat
falling towards the soil.
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BELOW GROUND TILT PANEL
WATERPROOFING
Tilt panel waterproofing below ground level has two flaws, the vertical joints
and the horizontal joints.
As the panels are usually erected on the slab or on a cast bed, the best
waterproofing solution is with a self-adhesive sheet membrane system such
as Bituthene 3000.
We are aware that some tilt panel constructions are installed onto piers
which makes it impossible to efficiently waterproof the wall/floor junctions
due to an unstable substrate.
TILT PANEL WATERPROOFING AS WRITTEN.
Cut all panels shims flush

Clean all surfaces to be waterproofed by 4000-psi water-blaster.
Install Mapei T40 non-shrink grout to the base of the panels to cove
and fill voids at a 45 angle and smooth.
Install Neoferma gasket to correct depth.
Install a closed cell backer rod to correct depth.
Install Soudal MS-35 sealant and tool off smooth.
Allow to cure 24 hours.
Prime all areas with Bituthene primer and allow curing.
Install a 200mm wide strip of Bituthene 3000 and install over T40 cove.
Install Bituthene 3000 from the base of the footing and 300mm to face
of tilt panel.
Install a 200mm wide strip of Bituthene 3000 to vertical joints starting
from the bottom to seal.
Roll all lap joints with a hand held steel roller to compress sheet joints.
Install Bituthene 3000 to rest of the walls.
Compress all laps joints with steel roller.
Mastic all cut edges with Bituthene mastic and smooth.
Protect membrane with protection as recommended.
27
28
VERTICLE JOINT DETAIL WITH NEOFERMA
GASKET.
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PODIUM AREA WATERPROOFING
Concrete podium areas experience water ingress from areas such as;
Expansion joints, crackings due to expansion and contraction, crane base
cold joints, drainage and service penetrations, planter boxes located on
podium slabs, and perimeter and separation walls.
In all cases the waterproofing membrane is installed to the main substrate
which in some case can be quite sizable.
In the late 80`s and 90`s hot-roll and pour where the chosen membrane
system and even with todays technology in waterproofing products, this is
still the best membrane system for podium surfaces.
Today we have three possible membrane applications in podium areas;
1. A membrane system which has tiles directly fixed to the waterproofing

membrane system.
2. A concrete topping installed directly on top of the membrane system.
3. A heavy trafficable exposed membrane system.
Which ever the design, it is critical that the correct membrane system is
specified, but most of all installed correctly by a competent waterproofing
contractor.
My opinion would be whatever the membrane system chosen, the film

thickness of the membrane would be the most critical?
For direct fixed tiles to the membrane system we really only have one
choice, the membrane system need to be compatible with the tiling
adhesive.
From this membrane system we choose two quality membrane systems as

follows;
1. AMI Ultraflex Rx, a urethane-acrylic reinforced membrane system is UV

stable, worthy water immersion levels, excellent stress levels, and
good elongation properties.
2. Enviro-Pro, an elastomeric acrylic reinforced membrane system with

excellent stress levels, and good elongation properties.
30
AMI ULTRAFLEX RX INSTALLATION
PROCEDURES
V grind cracks over 2mm wide to a depth of 5mm.
Clean all areas by pressure cleaning to remove all contaminants
Sweep off excess water and apply AMI Taspac epoxy primer.
Seal all junctions with Soudal MS-35 sealant 12mm wide and tool off
smooth.
Install neutral silicone to all cracks over 2mm, making sure to spread
the silicone 5mm either side of the cracks and skim off with flat
scraper.
Allow curing for 12 hours.
Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and
a polyester bandage and allow to cure.
Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and a
polyester bandage and allow to cure.
SOUDAL MS INSTALLATION PROCEDURES

Sweep off excess water and allow to dry for 2 hours.
Seal all junctions with Soudal MS-35 sealant 12mm wide and tool off
smooth.
Install neutral silicone to all cracks over 2mm, making sure to spread
the silicone 5mm either side of the cracks and skim off with flat
scraper.
Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with Rim-PUR MS and a
polyester bandage and allow to cure.
Reinforce all junctions and cracks over 2mm with AMI Ultraflex RX and
a polyester bandage and allow to cure.
31
PODIUM SEPARATION WALLS
In the old days when using hot-roll and pour methods we would always pour
the hot bitumen around the reinforcement bars before the blocks were laid.
Nowadays the membrane systems are just turning up the face walls to the
height required.
If the construction method is masonry block we need to waterproof the
walls.
In most cases the builder should allow for a full waterproofing package by a
qualified rendering/paint manufacturer such as Granosite, Ezt-cote or
Rockcote as they have a complete system which includes, priming, rendering
and painting.
These systems are equally as good on concrete substrates and they are
constantly used on many buildings that are subject no rendering procedures.
The residential builder, however, leaves the advise to the painter, as in most
cases the builder chooses the sub-contractors to perform the works that
meets his qualifications hence the Building insurance scheme..
Most residential builders choose to use more masonry block, timber and blue
panel for external construction, with most external balconies being
constructed from fibre-cement sheeting or scyon board.
With unit or townhouse developments the dividing walls are usually between
units and mostly made from blue-board or masonry block so waterproofing
the outside walls is essential especially if the areas are over living areas.
FAILURE IS SIMPLE THE OPPORTUNITY TO BEGIN AGAIN, THIS TIME MORE

INTELLIGENTLY.
-HENRY FORD
32
PODIUM WATERPROOFING WITH CONCRETE
TOPPING
Hot-roll and pour will always be my first choice for podium areas, but times
have changed and product technology has gone on from kettles and watering
pots.
The years of liquid membranes have brought more inexperienced people into
the circle of waterproofing, and as more products are introduced into the
market place the options are overwhelming.
When the hot - roll and pour and sheet membrane systems controlled the
waterproofing industry at least the contractors installing these systems were
experienced.
Even today, 25 years on, Bitumen sheet membrane systems including the
best sheet membrane of all Nuralite are still found on roof tops today.
For podiums the system that is above all others is the Rimseal 170 PU.
Rimseal PU 170 is a single component self levelling polyurethane membrane

system with a solid content of 97% a Shore A hardness of 72 and over 500%
elongation.
RIMSEAL PU 170 INSTALLATION

Prime all areas with Adflex WBE epoxy primer.
Seal all cracks with Rimseal PUR sealant and tool off flat.
Install Rimseal PUR 12mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth.
Allow 12 hours curing for maximum performance.
Pre-strip all junctions and cracks with Rimseal PU-170.
Apply Rimseal PU-170 by squeegee and roller to a DFT of 3mm.
Install Colorpave to all upturns were finishes are to be installed.
Allow 24 curing.
Install polyethylene plastic as a slip sheet before placement of
concrete.
33
PLANTER BOX WATERPROOFING
Planter boxes have always been an issue for waterproofing due to poor
designs and drainage systems, and root growth of plants and palms.
Bitumen sheet membranes with root inhibitors have long been driven by
manufacturers, but sheet laps are still the lightest level of entry for roots.
I have seen many excavated planter boxes and in most cases the roots have
made their way through the polyurethane coves installed when applying
liquid membranes, and through the sheet joints in sheet membranes.
In my opinion the membrane system for planter boxes should be monolithic,
be able to withstand full submerged water, be cementitous as to handle
increasing PH in garden soils, have positive and negative properties, and be
able to be compatible with renders and other finishes.
In my opinion we have two products that are capable of waterproofing
planter boxes which I believe will give better performance with a much
longer durability than most other membrane systems on the market.
Mapelastic Smart and Gripset C-1P are both cement-based products with
outstanding performance criteria for planter boxes.
Planter box drainage is also critical in planter boxes as to allow the plant life
to live within that space as to make sure they obtain sufficient water to
survive.
With this in mind protecting the membrane from damage and installing the
perfect drainage system has never been easier as below;
I prefer to have the planter box floor level as topping or screeds made to falls
drain water away too quickly for the plants.
As we have chosen a membrane system fit for purpose, protecting the
membrane walls should be a 6 mm fibre-cement sheeting, Prodrain and
Gutterbeta V drainage cell installed upside down to floor areas with a
prodrain on top.
What this means is that water can be retained in the Gutterbeta dimples that
face upwards, allowing the root systems to grow downwards to where water
is stored.
BEFORE GOD WE ARE ALL EQUALLY WISE-AND EQUALLY FOOLISH.
-ALBERT EINSTEIN
34
PLANTER BOX INSTALLATION FOR MASONRY
BLOCK AND CONCRETE
MAPELASTIC SMART.
Repair all voids or divots with mapecem Quick-patch
Recess drains as to allow for puddle flange.
Clean all areas to be waterproofed.
Formed concrete will need to be water-blasted to remove release
agents,
Install Mapei Grout T40/Fast-set 50mm wide to all right-angled
junctions and smooth.
Install Mapelastic Smart to all junctions incorporating a polyester
bandage or if possible a Mapei non-alkaline mesh.
Install Soudal MS-35 sealant around the top of the drainage
waste to seal cold joint between PVC and slab.
Install one coat of Mapelastic smart in a circle around waste and
install puddle flange flush with top of the substrate.
Install Mapei Eporip epoxy to top of the puddle flange and around
puddle flange and sprinkle mesh 20 dry sand into wet epoxy and
slightly flatten
Install two/three coats of Mapelastic Smart to all areas to be
waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm.
Allow curing for 48 hours before protection is installed.
IMPORTANT COMMENTS
All PVC penetrations which may include electrical services or lights must
have Mapei Eporip epoxy with sand as a bonding primer for Mapelastic
Smart.
All cement-based waterproofing products are best installed to a damp

substrate.
We would ALWAYS recommend a 48 hour water-test be conducted in all

planter boxes before filling.
35
GRIPSET C-1P.
Repair all voids or divots with Gripset DM powder and Gripset 11y.
Recess drains as to allow for puddle flange.
Clean all areas to be waterproofed.
agents,
Install Gripset DM powder mixed with 11y to form a 50mm wide cove to
all right-angled junctions and smooth.
Install gripset C-1P to all junctions incorporating a polyester bandage
Install Gripset SB sealant around the top of the drainage waste to seal
cold joint between PVC and slab.
Install one coat of gripset C-1P in a circle around waste and install
puddle flange flush with top of the substrate.
Install Gripset P10 epoxy to top of the puddle and around puddle flange
and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into wet epoxy and slightly flatten
Install two coats of Gripset C-1P to all areas to be waterproofed to a
DFT of 2mm.
Allow curing for 48 hours before protection is installed.
IMPORTANT COMMENTS
All PVC penetrations which may include electrical services or lights must
have Gripset P10 epoxy with sand as a bonding primer for Gripse C-1P.
All cement-based waterproofing products are best installed to a damp

substrate.

We dont recommend PP Coreflute boards for planter box protection as they

cause sweating between the membrane and PP Coreflute.
In time, this will cause small roots to be trapped or emmbed themselves

between the PP coreflute and membrane which causes the roots to
penetrate the membrane system.
36
WATER FEATURES AND PONDS
Most water features installed on large unit projects are subject to the water
being chemically charged with ingredients such as chlorine and Algaecides.
We would recommend that all water features which have a chemical
influence to be either fully tiled or completely rendered.
There are chemical resistance epoxy systems on the market, but all have
limited or no flexibility and are not UV stable above the water lines.
We may also have an issue with hydrastic water pressures from the outside
walls of the water feature or pond due to most are not waterproofed
externally when installed below ground.
The other concern with water features is they tend to have many
penetrations such as inlets, outlets and electrical services such as lights and
sprinklers.
There is an old waterproofing saying within the industry, the more
penetrations the more leaks.
With all this in mind, we have two waterproofing systems for water features
and ponds which are compatible with rendered finishes and tile adhesives.
Gripset c-1P and Mapelastic Smart.
MAPELASTIC SMART.
Repair all voids or divots with mapecem Quick-patch
Recess around all PVC penetrations to a depth of 15mm
agents,
Install Mapelastic Smart to all perimeter junctions incorporating
the Mapeband system, then install Mapeband to vertical joints
last.
Install Mapei Eporip epoxy as a primer to all recessed PVC
penetrations and sprinkle mesh 20, dry sand into wet epoxy and
slightly flatten
Allow curing for 4 hours
Install Mapelastic Smart in a circle around recessed PVC
penetrations that have been primed with Eporip epoxy
Install Mapei Quick patch around all recessed penetrations
making sure to leave a 3mm recess between the PVC to finish
the membrane system.
37
Install two coats of Mapelastic Smart to all areas to be
waterproofed to a DFT of 2mm, making sure to tie membrane into
3mm recess around PVC penetrations.

Water feature may now be tiled or rendered to complete installation.
For rendering and tiling recommendations, please contact Mapei.
GRIPSET C-1P
Repair all voids or divots with Gripset DM powder and Gripset
11y.
Recess around all penetrations to a depth of 15mm.
agents,
Prime PVC penetrations with Gripset P10 and sprinkle mesh 20,
dry sand into the wet epoxy and slightly flatten.
Install gripset C-1P to all junctions incorporating the Gripset
Elastoproof systems.
Install Gripset C-1P in a circle around PVC penetrations that have
been primed with Gripset P10 epoxy primer
Install two coats of Gripset C-1P to all areas to be waterproofed
to a Dft of 2mm

Water feature may now be tiled or rendered to complete installation.
For rendering and tiling recommendations, please contact Gripset.
THE GREATEST DISCOVERY OF ALL TIME IS THAT A PERSON CAN

CHANGE HIS FUTURE BY MERELY CHANGING HIS ATTITUDE
-OPRAH WINFREY
38
AS 3740-2004 WET AREA WATERPROOFING
The most waterproofed areas of the building industry today?
Wet areas are defined as follows;
Bathrooms
Ensuites
Toilets
Laundry
Powder rooms
Commercial kitchens may also need to be waterproofed due to health and

safety regulations.
With so many waterproofing membrane on the market today, undertile

waterproofing can be installed by licensed waterproofing contractors, tilers,
builders, bathroom renovators, and individuals who seem to think they can
waterproof there own bathrooms when renovating.
Wet area waterproofing has been in the QBCC TOP 10 DEFECT LIST FOR
OVER 10 years, maybe longer and today nothing has changed.
In my opinion tilers and builders who have not qualified for the Certification 3
in waterproofing should not be allowed to waterproof.
I have seen many waterproofing products introduced into the market over
the last 26 years, and basically we are almost turning full circle.
HISTORY LESSON ON WET AREA MEMBRANES.
When I first came onto the waterproofing industry, we only had water-based
liquid applied membrane systems which had to be fully reinforced with ACI
225gsm chopped strand fibreglass mesh.
Even the high-end car trafficable membrane systems where one-part Acrylic
membranes reinforced with either two-layers of 225gsm fibreglass mesh or
one layer of 300gsm fibreglass mesh.
And guess what? We had very limited or no problems with any of these
systems.
The main reason being, that in the old days the contractors were more
experienced because of their product knowledge as we had only to choose
from a handful of waterproofing products such as
39
Bitumen Hot-roll and pour.
Torch applied membrane systems.
Spot adhered membrane called Nuralite
Single-part water-based membrane systems
Chopped strand fibreglass mesh.
What more did we need, these products cover everything we do today.
We also had a lot less waterproofing contractors in Queensland in those days

not even the other trades would want to take on the hot - roll and pour or
apply torch-on membrane systems, they even thought waterproofing wet
areas were difficult and too time consuming to install.
HOW THINGS HAVE CHANGED NOW.
In the early nineties we had our first taste of cementitous two-part

membranes, which we had to mix on site, was always lumpy, needed more
effort to install the product, went off to quickly in warmer weather, and the
issues of product wastage.
We also had our first taste of using a polyurethane membrane system on
The Southbank apartment project for Concrete constructions we used a
black polyurethane membrane called TP60 from Pabco to install to all wet
areas and planter boxes with little thought that six months later the
migration from the bitumen in the TP60 would turn all the silicone in the wet
areas yellow. NO MORE TP60 IN WET AREAS AFTER THAT.
On to the next stage, we need a polyurethane that contains no bitumen so
Pabco had the idea of ejecting a grey 600ml polyurethane sausage into a
bucket, adding Xylen and mixing to form a spreadable membrane for wet
areas. Worked ok, but the fumes were terrible and to think I did this for
another 12 months.
The age of polyurethane membranes was born, and for the next 15 years, it
has been used as a one coat system for wet areas and other applications.
On the last 5 years' issues have been raised by tiling contractors and tile
adhesive manufacturer with the ability to cement-based products to
polyurethane membranes.
I think now in 2014, people are more aware that you cannot adhere anything
to a polyurethane membrane, especially cement-based products even with
sand broadcast into it, nor is it a one coat system.
40
But guess what, there is still one manufacturer stating to use a polyurethane
membrane in wet areas with no primer, can be applied in one coat, and if
direct fixing tiles, throw sand into the membrane.
So to the average waterproofing contractor, you can throw sharp sand into
one coat of wet polyurethane and this shall be waterproof.
So in time we now have over 100 membranes to waterproof a wet area, so

which one do we use?
A polyurethane because of the one coat mentality and the speed of curing.
A two-part cement-based membrane because of the curing time and the cost
factor, not to mention the mixing and the wastage.
SBR or elastomeric based membranes that are now reinforced with fibres as
to speed the installation process, but in winter take a minimum 3 days to
cure unless you use a fan. You must apply 2 coats and for best practice
purposes on two separate days.
Bitumen torch applied membranes 2,0mm thick, which are still being
installed today in wet areas.
Thin set membranes unreinforced that offer tiling in 12 hours because they
have a DFT of 0.8mm but still require 2 coats.
Modified acrylic polyurethane because they are tougher, dry quicker, some
are unreinforced, but again must be applied in two coats.
Then we have the durability testing that all membranes used in wet areas
must comply with AS 4858-2004 and with the three different classes of
membranes you have to use a different size bond breaker.
With all these regulations in place, most average contractors, including tilers
and builders seem to be installing waterproofing as they see fit.
And this is a damp shame for the people who have made waterproofing their
livelihood since the late eighties early nineties.
We must all abide to the rules and regulations stated in the Construction
code.
In my opinion all wet areas should be waterproofed on concrete or tile

underlay substrates, have the Gleda angles installed in showers and
doorways, have Rocktop wastes installed to all drainage points, and all
showers be water-tested.
41
WET AREA MEMBRANE INSTALLATION
With a variety of undertile waterproofing membranes on the present market I
am unwilling to offer a single membrane system.
I will however offer a list of single part products below which are best suited
for undertile waterproofing.
Ultraflex RX
Flowthane
Adflex Wam Fr
Enviro-Pro
Ardex WPM-001 (Superflex 1)
Gripset 38
Other advice would be to use an MS Sealant rather than silicone or

polyurethane sealants.
Always reinforce upturns in main shower areas regardless of membrane
systems.
Never waterproof directly onto particle board or any other timber floors.
Even if the flooring grade particle board meets AS/NZS 1860.1 most
waterproofing manufacturers will state tile underlay must be installed.
Always install and recess puddle flanges below floor height.
Prime all areas to be waterproofed with the same manufacturer's primer,
making sure to prime all PVC services with an appropriate etching primer or
use a Rocktop puddle flange.
The choice of membrane is also critical that we choose a membrane which

has had a non-wicking fibre reinforcement installed throughout the product.
SUCCESS IS WALKING FROM FAILURE TO FAILURE WITH

NO LOSS OF ENTHUSIASM.
-WINSTON CHURCHILL
42
PRIMERS
Priming has also been an issue for contractors as the same questions are
always asked, do we need to prime, or what primer do we use?
The simple answer is EVERYTHING NEEDS TO BE PRIMED?
Priming matters as it is an essential part of the installation of any
waterproofing product as is promotes bond strength, seals the surface to
make the substrate more stable, protects against atmospheric moisture and
osmosis and ensures a much better adhesion of the membrane system.
Primers are products which allow for coating and membrane systems to
adhere far greater than if it the membrane or coating was installed without
primers.
Primers in most cases do not need to be engineered to be durable as they are
overcoated with membranes, in some case primers can be engineered to
have enhanced fillers or binding properties for the membrane system to work
as intended so it is very important that you always use the primer
recommended by the membrane manufacturer.
Most water-based primers are inexpensive,
BEST PRIMERS
TWO-PART EPOXY PRIMERS

WATER-BASED BONDING PRIMERS SUCH AS GRIPSET GP
GRIPSET P10
GRIPSET OP
With most contractors looking to keep costs down by not priming

substrates, but priming may also help reduce the amount of membrane
that may be absorbed by the substrate.
WHICH IS CHEAPER? PRIMER OR MEMBRANE.
43
BALCONY WATERPROOFING
Balcony waterproofing over the past 15 years has been an uncomfortable
topic for waterproofing contractors due to some builders on the larger
projects have refused to waterproof the entire balcony areas.
Balconies that are constructed of fibre-cement sheeting seem to have the
most concerns when it comes to providing a long lasting waterproofing
solution.
With all balcony construction there are three main rules that above
everything all are the most important if the waterproofing is going to work as
intended, falls, drainage points, and door/window threshold.
The fact that concrete balconies have no joints to deal with, and fibre-
cement and Scyon sheeting have joints, is irrelevant to the outcome of the
waterproofing.
With this in mind, I shall break up the waterproofing into three subjects;
1. -Waterproofing of concrete balconies.

2. -Waterproofing fibre-cement sheet.
3. -Waterproofing Scyon/Eternit sheeting
Waterproofing of concrete balconies.

Most concrete balconies are situated on high rise apartments with falls
created by way of a screed with Drainage usually installed on the balcony or
spitters through the ballustrading hob or wall.
Waterproofing here should be straight forward and personally, it does not
matter if you use a class 2 or 3 membrane system.
My opinion would be using a class three membrane fully reinforced with 225
fibreglass or polyester mat as this will eliminate the issues when the
concrete desices to crack.
The threshold at doorways or windows are waterproofed at least two months
before the full balconies are waterproofed, so making sure that the
membrane you choose to use has no issues binding to the cured membrane
after this time.
Bonding onto any membrane system after a prolonged curing time is always
a weak point on the membrane system and needs to be addressed correctly.
44
WATERPROOFING INSTALLATION FOR MEMBRANE
Lightly sand cured membrane to remove gloss and dirt
Prime all areas with correct primer including sanded areas
Install a 12 mm bead of MS-35 sealant and tool off smooth
Reinforce all perimeters with fibreglass or polyester mat
Install two-three coats of membrane to a DFT of 1.5mm
Allow curing for 48 hours before tiling
Waterproofing balcony with a fibre-cement

sheet.
Waterproofing cement sheeting SHOULD be waterproofed with a sheet
membrane? Liquid applied systems will need to be done skillfully, and by a
competent waterproofing contractor.
There are at least six areas that command the full attention of a competent
waterproofing contractor before he starts waterproofing.
1. Door thresholds
2. Falls are correct
3. Sheet joints
4. Sheet screw hole penetrations
5. Drip edge angles
6. Perimeter turn-ups
7. Balustrade or post penetrations
8. Direct fix tiles or bedded.
9. Efflorescence.
With fibre-cement sheet, the secret is not about the membrane system, it is
the attention to detail and the film build of the finished membrane system.
The best membrane system for these types of substrates is a sheet
membrane system, but the topping will have to be reinforced with mesh and
be at lest 60mm thick.
With fibre-cement sheeting it makes no difference if you use a class 2 or 3

membrane system, I prefer a class 2 as it is less more to get damaged when
tilers are walking all over it or mixing a screed on top of the membrane.
Most fibre-cement sheets fail at the sheet joints and the post penetrations.
45
The first item to look at is that the sheets have been installed correctly to
allow for differential movement for all materials that are to be installed on
the deck.
If the sheet joints do not all line up in a straight line, it is then virtually
impossible to use a manufacturer's rubber bandage system such as
Mapeband or Gripset B50 over the joints as there will be to many lap joints in
the bandage system.
All manufacturers will ask for all joints to be reinforced with some type of
reinforcement tape or matt. This is fine if the joints have been installed with
a neutral cure silicone sealant but in most cases the sealant should be an MS
sealant.
In my opinion, fibre-cement sheeting decks or balconies should be

waterproofed as follows;
Clean and check construction method including falls and door/window

thresholds.
Install balcony edge drip angle, making sure to recess down 2mm
Install primer such as Gripset OP primer or Gripset P10
Allow curing as recommended
Install MS sealant such as Soudal MS-35 and tool off smooth
Install polyester reinforcement to perimeter upturns with chosen
membrane
Install Gripset B10 rubber bandage system or silicone bond breaker
tape over sheet joints.
Apply three coats of Enviro Pro membrane to a DFT no less than 1.5mm
PRIMING APPLICATION
Prime substrates thoroughly by brush or roller with an appropriate primer as

follows;
Plastic needs to be cleaned with Acetone or primed with Gripset OP or

P10
Aluminium needs to be cleaned with Acetone or primed with Gripset OP

or P10
All Primers shall be left to cure as RECOMMENDED at an even coverage.
Where an existing coating is present or the substrate is different, confirm

with Envirotech on the appropriate primer to be used.
46
FLOOR SHEET JOINTS
All sheet joints shall have a 10 mm closed cell backer rod installed 6 mm
below the surface to allow for sealant
Install MS sealant to all joints and tool off smooth, making sure not to
spread sealant onto balcony surface.
Allow sealant to skin for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25
DOOR/WINDOW STEP DOWNS
Mechanical round all external sheet edges for membrane system.
All sheet joints shall have a 10 mm closed cell backer rod installed 6 mm
below the surface to allow for sealant.
Install MS sealant 15 mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth.
Allow MS sealant to skins for 30 minutes at a temperature of 25.
Reinforce with a polyester mat all set down to a DFT of 1.2 mm making sure
the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto balcony floor areas.
PERIMETER UPTURNS
Install a 12 mm cove, to all junctions with MS sealant and tool off smooth.
Allow MS sealant to skin for 30 minutes at 25
Reinforce with a polyester mat all upturns to a DFT of 1.2 mm 100 mm

above finished floor height.
Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto to
balcony floor areas.
FLOOR WASTES
Floor wastes WHEN REQUIRED, SHALL BE Rock top flanges recessed to

finish flush with fibre-sheeting and fixed in place with MS sealant.
Install membrane system into a flange and seal with Rock top flange.
47
SHEET DETAILING
Install Gripset/Mapei rubber bandage or Crommelin bond breaker tape to all

sheet joints in a continuous run incorporating the appropriate membrane
system.
FIBRE SHEET POST DETAIL
Make sure there is a suitable gap between the sheet and the
Penetration, a minimum of 5 mm is preferred
Install closed cell backer rod to a depth of 6 mm then cove around

penetration with MS sealant and tool off smooth. (A 12mm cove is
Preferred)
above finished floor height.
Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto
MOST FIBRE-CEMENT SHEETING BALCONIES LEAK FROM AROUND POST OR

SHEET JOINTS DUE TO MOVEMENT OR INCORRECT MEMBRANE DETAILING.
MEMBRANE INSTALLATION
Apply one coat of waterproof membrane to floor areas, rolling

sideways to the drainage outlets.
Allow 24 hours drying at a temperature of 25 for the first coat to cure
correctly.
Apply a second coat of waterproof membrane, rolling in a straight line

towards drainage outlets.
DFT shall be 1.5 mm, or a third coat shall be applied after 24 hours curing
at a temperature of 25
48
TILE FIXING
Tile adhesives should be compatible with the membrane system installed.
TILE CONTROL JOINTS
Shall be to James Hardy recommendations and to AS 3958.1
DETAIL VIEW OF BALCONY DRIP EDGE ANGLE
This system is available in two profiles.

12mm for direct fixed tiling to the membrane system
27mm for tiling over a sand-cement bed
49
MEMBRANE RECOMMENDATIONS
Ultraflex RX
Flowthane
Adflex Wam Fr
Enviro-Pro
Gripset 38
50
DETAIL DRAWIING
With balcony posts there has always been confusion with how far the
membrane should turn up above the height of the finished substrate.
Most builders will not like to see a waterproof membrane on a timber or
aluminium post due to the film thickness that is seen when the membrane
cures.
All balcony perimeter turnups should be waterproofed 100mm above the
finished floor height, and 25mm above the finished floor height for posts and
ballustrading.
I also advise a 9mm fibre-cement sheet plinth installed and sealed if posts
are to be fixed on top of the balcony.
51
WATERPROOFING BALCONY WITH SCYON SHEETING
Most builders who have installed the scyon sheet system for balcony
construction have made comments that it acts like an MDF board.
Most waterproofing manufacturers tested the Scyon board for membrane
adhesion to a variety of primers with one manufacturer saying a primer is not
required.
We also have a similar sheet on the market called Eternit Modubuild which is
identified by a 50mm overlapping tongue and groove and Scyon being a
central lock tongue and groove.
For both the Scyon and Eternit boards, if the sheets are laid in a staggered
layout due to the size of the deck, Waterproofing these cement sheeting
systems SHOULD be with a sheet membrane?
Liquid applied systems will need to be done skillfully, and by a competent
waterproofing contractor.
We would advise installing a sheet membrane system not a liquid applied
system due to the configuration of sheet joints.
In my opinion the Eternit sheeting sits and works better for waterproofing as
the 50mm overlap can be fully sealed and work as a water stop before
waterproofing.
PRIMING APPLICATION
Prime substrates thoroughly by brush or roller with the appropriate primer as

follows:
Gripset OP or P10 primer
Plastic needs to be primed with Gripset OP or P10
Aluminium needs to be primed with Gripset OP or P10
All Primers shall be left to cure as per recommended data sheets.
Where an existing coating is present or the substrate is different, confirm

with Enviro-Tech on the appropriate primer to be used.
FLOOR SHEET JOINTS
Make sure all sheet joints are joint sealed tightly with no spread of sealant
on the Scyon boards with MS sealant and tooled off smooth.
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Install Gripset B10 rubber bandage or Crommelin bond breaker tape
continuously to all sheet joints incorporating the waterproofing membrane
system.
DOOR/WINDOW STEP DOWNS
Mechanical round all external sheet edges for membrane system.
Install MS flexible sealant 15 mm wide to all junctions and tool off smooth.
Reinforce with a polyester mat all set down to a DFT of 1.2 mm making sure
the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto balcony floor areas.
PERIMETER UPTURNS
Install MS sealant 15 mm cove, to all junctions and tool off smooth.
Reinforce with A polyester mat to all upturns to a DFT of 1.2 mm and

100 mm above the finished floor height or 25 mm above water line.
Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto to
Apply one coat of Enviro Pro water-based membrane to floor areas, rolling
sideways to the drainage outlets.
Allow a minimum 24 hours drying at a temperature of 25 longer in colder

temperatures.
Apply a second coat of waterproof membrane, rolling in a straight line too

drainage outlets.
DFT shall be 1.5 mm, or a third coat shall be applied after 24 hours curing.
FIBRE SHEET POST DETAIL
Make sure there is a suitable gap between the sheeting and the
penetration, a minimum of 5 mm is preferred
Install closed cell backer rod to a depth of 6 mm then cove around

penetration with MS sealant and tool off smooth. (A 12mm cove is
53
preferred)

above the finished floor height or 25 mm above water line.
Make sure the membrane system has been installed 200 mm onto
MOST FIBRE-CEMENT SHEET BALCONIES LEAK FROM AROUND POST AND

SHEET JOINTS DUE TO MOVEMENT OR INCORRECT MEMBRANE DETAILING.
TILE FIXING
Tile adhesives should be compatible with the membrane system installed.
TILE JOINTS
Shall be to James Hardy recommendations and to AS 3958.1
MEMBRANE RECOMMENDATIONS
Ultraflex RX
Flowthane
Adflex Wam Fr
Enviro-Pro
Gripset 38
Aquadefence
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WATERPROOFING BALCONY WITH ETERNIT SHEETING
The Eternit system flooring is an 18mm cement bound matrix board
consisting of silicate laminated together with a 50mm overlapping system to
allow for modular continuity.
There are two Eternit boards available on the market in Queensland, one
which has a smooth and rough surface, and one with the surface smooth on
both sides.
Envirotech again would recommend a sheet system to be installed as the
sheeting is staggered due to the joint configuration.
Envirotech has performed testing, which included a pull of test with an IP65
Defelsko adhesion tester to achieve the optimum waterproofing system that
complies with AS 3740-2004 and AS 4654.2 for the Eternit boards.
On either board the system for waterproofing is as follows;
Clean and remove all contaminants and sharp objects.

Prime all areas with Gripset P10
Install a 12mm MS sealant to all junctions to form bond breakers
Install MS sealant to 5mm by 5mm to lap joints, making sure to install
a 5mm bond breaker tape before applying sealant.
Apply Enviro-Pro waterproofing to all Upstands incorporating a
polyester mat.
Install Gripset B10 rubber bandage or Crommelin bond breaker tape
continuously to all sheet joints incorporating the Enviro-Pro
waterproofing system.
Apply one coat of Enviro Pro water-based membrane to floor areas, rolling
sideways to the drainage outlets or falls.
Allow a minimum 24 hours drying at a temperature of 25, longer in colder

temperatures.
Apply a second coat of waterproof membrane, rolling in a straight line too

drainage outlets or falls.
DFT shall be 1.5 mm, or a third coat shall be applied to falls after 24 hours
curing
55
ROOF WATERPROOFING
All waterproofing is significant, but waterproofing roof areas are by far the
most critical area of the building.
We have seven main roofing systems in Queensland;
1. Roof areas that are waterproof and tiled

2. Trafficable roofs with exposed trafficable membranes
3. Green roofs
4. Light trafficable exposed Roof areas
5. Exposed roof areas for maintenance traffic
6. IRMA Roofs (Inverted roof membrane assembly)
7. Warm roofs
In all cases we have to achieve the best suited membrane system that is
available on the market today.
In my opinion, a sheet membrane system has always out performed liquid
membranes so I would always choose a three layered bitumen membrane
system over any other sheet membrane system on the market.
WHY WOULD YOU INSTALL A SINGLE PLY SHEET MEMBRANE SYSTEM ON A

ROOF?
It's like liquid applied membranes going from a DFT of 1-15mm down to
0.08mm
Roof areas that are waterproof and tiled

We would advise the compatible primer, and a membrane system that
contains no reinforcement, has over 300% elongation, has at least 10 plus
years in the field and is fully compatible with the appropriate tile adhesive.
This is where the likes of Ardex, Mapei, and Gripset have a complete system
to assist the builder because they have a complete waterproofing and tiling
system in their range of products so this would make sense.
We would also recommend that the membrane system be fully reinforced

with polyester on roof areas that are tiled and are in full sun to achieve a full
DFT of at least 1.5mm
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With so many undertile waterproof membranes on the market, my preference
would be as follows;
Gripset 38/RD (NO FIBRE)

Enviro Pro (NO FIBRE)
Ardex WPM 155 (NO FIBRE)
Ultraflex (NO FIBRE)
We would also advise a four coat system which includes a primer coat and
three coats of membrane incorporating a polyester mat.
Liquid exposed light trafficable roof areas

In the old day trafficable roof areas where Acrylic membranes fully
reinforced with 225gsm chopped strand fibreglass with most still in service
today.
With the inflow of fibreglass from overseas, the issues that are present now
is trapped moisture between the strands of fibreglass causing blistering of
the finished membrane.
We would recommend a four coat system fully reinforced with a polyester
mat if membrane systems are to be left fully exposed.
Recommended exposed membrane systems as follows;
Ultraflex (NO FIBRE)

Gripset RD (NO FIBRE)
Ardex WPM 908 (NO FIBRE)
Enviro Pro UV (NO FIBRE)
Adfle PU 170 systems
Exposed roof areas for maintenance traffic only

For many years roof areas have been waterproofed with bitumen membranes
and in Europe alone, there are more than 20 different trade names for APP
modified Bitumenans and 15 for SBS bitumen products.
This is a ridiculous number of different brands of modified bitumen rolls so
the market does suggest a very popular membrane system that still has
enormous growth and popularity.
All exposed Bitumen torch applied membrane systems should be at least
three layers consisting of a vent, a mid layer, and the capping layer.
57
There are good bitumen sheet membranes on the market in Australia and
there are poor bitumen sheet membranes.
Contractors rely on the manufacturers hearsay if they do not understand the
data sheet so only the experienced contractors may look at the softness of a
membrane (ring and ball test), or if the membrane contains a high amount of
fillers. Good quality APP membranes do not have much discoloration or
brown staining and look much better after 12 months of weathering,
I shall conclude with the following recommendation, only use materials
whose quality has been controlled independently or delivered under quality
controlled assurances such as De-Boer, Ardex or Parchem.
There are other roofing membranes in Queensland such as TPO

(Thermoplastic PolyOlefin), Butynol (Rubber TechnologyMorton) and Sarnafil
PVC (polyvinyl chloride).
We have also observed some manufacturers choosing to use these

membranes in areas other than what they are designed for, such as lift pits,
planter boxes, and podium areas.
WE EMBRACE NEW MEMBRANE TECHNOLOGY IF IT

BENEFITS OUR INDUSTRY, BUT I ASK THE QUESTION?
DO MANUFACTURERS OVERLOOK WHAT IS BEST FOR OUR
INDUSTRY, OR WHAT IS BEST FOR THEMSELVES!
YOU BE THE JUDGE?

In my opinion, I would never use a single ply waterproofing membrane
system on a roof.
WHY?
Single layer up to 2mm

Difficult to install
Difficult to repair
Issues with blister from vapours
Easy to puncture
Shrink during aging, especially in QLD
58
High life cycle cost
Limited foot traffic and gets very slippery underfoot
Chemical attacks
Mechanical failure from fixing
Pictures below of roofing failures;
SINGLE PLY CHEMICAL ATTACK
59
DELAMINATED LAP
TORN SHEET DUE TO EXPANSION
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PENETRATION FROM DAMAGE
RUPTURED LAP CAUSED BY EXPANSION
61
POOR TPO DETAILING
62
THREE LAYER TORCH APPLIED MEMBRANE
SYSTEM
Advantages are;
Multi layered
Existing technology
High tensile strength
Low temperature flex
Easy to repair
Easy to overlay
Many configurations
Looks neat and tidy
Good weathering
Goodpuncturee resistance
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64
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IRMA ROOFS
The IRMA roofing system is a patented system from the early 70`s and has
been used with single and multiply bitumen membrane systems.
The IRMA system is designed with extruded polystyrene insulation boards
and then covered with 50-100mm of washed river gravel.
We also have the situation were the extruded polystyrene is installed on the
substrate and then the membrane system installed on top of the polystyrene,
(warm roof) this can only be achieved if there is sufficient falls as water
laying on the roof will heat up and may cause expansion and contraction on
the laps, and temperature, humidity and moisture can affect the system
greatly.
66
GREEN ROOFS
Green roof technology has been around since the early seventies and was
first developed in Germany. The advantages of green roof technology are as
follows;
Long life span up to 60 years

Reduce energy costs
Good thermal heating
Good storm water and water management
Increases air quality
Reduces noise
Provide a green space and environment
This system works best with a multi layered torch applied bitumen
membrane system with the only disadvantage being controlling the root
growth.
IT TAKES COURAGE TO GROW UP AND TURN OUT TO BE

WHO YOU REALLY ARE
-E. E. Cumming
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INJECTION WATERPROOFING
INJECTION FACTS
History
A company called Bayer about the time WWII finished developed

polyurethanes in Germany; their uses were to insulate High altitude bombers
during night trips over Britain. As time progressed more applications were
found in this new material, which could be made into foams, and sheet
material for an array of applications.
The material reached the U.S. in the seventies and Bayer sought to use its
properties that had proven useful in Coal Mining in Germany to assist their
efforts to find a suitable repair medium for tunnels that had fallen behind in
maintenance.
One of the most prominent industries chosen for use was mining and the
product was used for ground and water sealing applications.
Through the next 20 years polyurethane became the material for ground and
water sealing, to the point where in 2011 polyurethane is still the preferred
method for injection.
DEFINITIONS
Single component versus Dual Component Urethanes
Single component urethanes react with water by pulling an OH molecule of

an H2O water molecule during the reaction process. This takes time; so most
competitors offer a separate catalyst to make this reaction happen must
faster. This means they really arent a single component, as the separate
catalyst must be mixed with part B before use. Rim seal S1 1000 has the
catalyst pre mixed so it is a true single component urethane that reacts in 30
seconds, faster than nearly all other products on the market.
Dual component urethane is a binary system, part A the chemical side and
the catalyst part B, they do not react with water, but with each other,
allowing for a faster gel time with a much greater certainty about the
composition of the mixed product over a single component system which is
much slower. Rim seal S1 4000 has a catalyst, but can also be used without.
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Hydrophobic versus hydrophilic polyurethanes
Hydrophobic Urethanes dont like water, they push water away during their
reaction and once this reaction occurs, the urethane does not absorb the
water so the shrinkage of hydrophobic urethanes is minimal or zero.
Hydrophobic urethanes cure to form rigid or open cell foam that has a much
higher expansion rate, sometimes up to 3000%.
The contact with water starts the reaction, which pushes water away during
the reaction so water cannot absorb into the urethane and is forced back
through the cracks and deep into the concrete micro-fractures.
When these concrete micro-fractures are filled with water, the hydrophobic
urethane cant flow through and establish a bond with the concrete.
When the hydrophobic urethane cures, it becomes a rigid foam, which is
unable to re-expand to its original size after it is has been compressed, so
any thermal movement or substrate pressures will cause the urethane to
break away from the concrete because of its poor bonding and make the
crack leak again.
Hydrophilic Urethanes must have water to react as part of their reaction, so
as long as the Hydrophilic Urethane remains in contact with water, they will
not shrink.
Hydrophilic urethanes have two properties, which make the hydrophilic
urethane best suited for stopping water leaks in small cracks.
The first is they get a remarkable bond to concrete by reacting and absorbing
the water within the crack and micro-fractures in the concrete.
As hydrophilic grouts cure, they form a tight flexible seal that will expand
and contract as pressure or temperature changes within the crack.
Once the water dries up the Hydrophilic Urethane will dry out and shrink until
water is reintroduced, then it will re-expand, but not to its original extent as
before, thats why it will re-leak.
Hydrophilic are less viscous simply react with water without a catalyst.
Rim seal products are pre-catalysed and perform much better than any
hydrophilic grouts because they are hydrophobic and require zero catalyst.
Viscosity can be adjusted by simply warming and cooling the product before
the injection process.
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(TDI) Toluene Diisocyanates against MDI Methyl Diisocyanates
We know that there are the two different main components of urethane
products for injection, all Rim seal products are MDI based, but others on the
market still use TDI based products which are unpleasant to use as they give off
carcinogen hazardous vapours. There is really no difference between TDI or
MDI products so it would be advisable to use our Rim seal MDI based
urethanes are they are much safer to work with.
Reaction Time
This is really meant how long it takes for the urethane to foam after it is
injected. Reaction time is mainly based on temperature and pressure, as the
reaction time is slower when it is colder and faster when it is warmer. Most
urethanes on the market say they should be installed around 70 degrees F
which brings the best out of the product.
Rim seal S1 3000 reacts in 30 seconds and Rim seal S1 2000 reacts in 1 to 3
seconds.
Solid Content
This is a measure the solid content as other use filler such as calcium
carbonate which can be abrasive to the equipment. Rim seal products are
100% solids, Rim seal 4000, sets in 50 seconds with 100% solid density.
Weather Conditions
Cold substrates will cause an increase in the viscosity of all injectable
products including epoxy as it will slow down the rate of injection. Hot
substrates will cause premature jelling of the injection, meaning loss of
penetration. Hot or cold surfaces will have an effect on the injection
procedure, so make sure to allow for hot and cold temperatures.
MY OPINION IS THAT WE SHOULD INJECT WITH A HYDROPHILIC,

THEN BACK UP WITH A HYDROPHOBIC GROUT TO SEAL THE CRACKS
COMPLETELY.
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Rimseal injection products are proprietary blends developed and tested in
the field.
The Rim seal injection product line numbers just three, which are of a high
quality, and very versatile for each application.
Rim seal 1000 is a single part soft foaming, low viscosity hydrophilic resin
with high adhesion properties and NO shrinkage if mixed with water.
Rim seal 3000 is a single part, high- elastic half rigid hydrophilic resin that
has NO shrinkage even when water is not present.
Rim seal 4000 is a fast setting half rigid closed-cell hydrophobic resin with
NO shrinkage even when water id not present.
With quality comes service. With highly experienced field operators, we offer
the best technical support in our industry, with up to date information
available on the Rim seal website to provide common sense guidance for any
situation.
Urethane/Resin based injection grouts verses Epoxy injection grouts

In Queensland most people inject cracks with flexible grouts because thats
all they know?
What people dont understand is that when the concrete cracks it becomes
structural or weakness of the concrete, but not in a major way as nearly all
concrete will crack.
Some of these cracks can be injected with epoxy resins, as they will recover
concrete strength and give good steel corrosion resistance.
URETHANE INJECTION PROCEDURES

The preparation and installation procedures are just as critical as choosing
the correct product to inject into surface cracks. As we know most cracks in
basements will show signs of weeping water, causing heavy mineral deposits
to form along cracks and in the cracks so cleaning the cracks before
injecting is critical for the injection system to work.
Make sure site conditions are safe for product installation.
Prepare work areas by barricades, drop sheets and signage etc.
Drill holes on opposing side of the fracture in an alternating pattern

approximately 45-degree angles to intersect the crack at about half the
depth of the fracture.
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Spacing of packers is subject to the size of the fracture.
Vacuum or air blow drill holes to remove all drill waste from holes to
ensure the packer has a strong bond.
Install packers and tighten to form a strong bond, and prepare injection
equipment.
10 mm injection packers are best suited as not to stress concrete; 13

mm packers will stress concrete due to drilling vibration.
Inject clean water with phosphoric acid through packers to flush all
mineral residues from areas to be injected.
Flush clean water through packers to remove all acid residues.
Start the injection process at the lowest packer and inject material till
the resin reaches the next packer.
Continue injection process to all packers making sure to move back

and re-inject packers to fill cracks.
The mix ratio of water to resin is important to achieve maximum

effectiveness for the injection grout to work correctly in the crack.
Remember; the temperature of the water and the injection resin can
control the reaction speed of the gel time.
Once materials cure packers can be removed and plugged with a

waterproof, non-shrink grout.
Excess materials can be cleaned up and disposed of in accordance

with state regulations.
Flush and clean all equipment with Gun wash, or suitable cleaner, and
flush with motor oil if required.
EPOXY INJECTION
Epoxy injection systems have been around a long time, and is a system for
welding, concrete together to give back some of its strength and loading
capabilities in the original design.
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Repairing cracks in concrete by epoxy injection can restore the structural
qualities of the concrete and seals the crack to eliminate contamination of
reinforcement bars from water and air.
The reinforcement bar is a key element in the structural value of concrete
and if left unrepaired, this will allow moisture to penetrate into the crack,
causing the reinforcement steel to corrode which will cause the concrete to
loos structural value.
Repairing these cracks in concrete is quite simple, as epoxy injection will
seal the crack, but will not repair the cause of the crack.
There are ways to analyze if cracks are live by using crack sliders, or
consulting a structural Engineer as preventing future cracking we need to
find out the cause of the cracking.
Epoxy injection has two purposes; it effectively seals the crack to prevent
moisture ingress, and also monolithically welds the structure together. The
most important thing to achieve is the sealing of the crack not he welding of
the crack as if we keep moisture out, we prevent deterioration of the
reinforcement steel which binds the concrete structure together.
Rim seal has epoxy injection products including crack slides to help
you inject the correct products into concrete cracks.
Why Rim seal Products for epoxy sealing Solutions

Why choose Rim seal epoxy injection over competing products in the market
place?
It must start with quality.
Rim seal products are proprietary blends developed and tested in the field.
The Rim seal epoxy injection product line numbers just four, which are of a
high quality, and very versatile for each application.
Rim seal 150 is a two part low viscosity, high adhesive strength epoxy for
fine cracks which aids in concrete recovery.
Rim seal 207 is a two part, high mechanical strength epoxy putty for
injection and binding steel and cement.
Rim seal 002 is a two-part high elastic high strength epoxy injection system
for vibration.
73
Rim seal 200 is a two-part, low viscosity superior strength epoxy for damp or
wet cracks.
With quality comes service. With highly experienced field operators, we offer
the best technical support in our industry, with up to date information
available on the Rim seal website to provide common sense guidance for any
situation.
EPOXY INJECTION PROCEDURES

Drill holes on opposing side of the fracture in an alternating
pattern approximately 45-degree angles to intersect the crack at
about half the depth of the fracture.
Spacing of ports is subject to the size of the fracture and
thickness of concrete.
Mechanical grind concrete 100 mm either side of the work area
to clean surface substrate for epoxy paste.
Remove all drill waste from crack and drill holes by air pressure
or vacuum suction.
Install ports directly over the crack with Rim seal 207 epoxy
paste between 4 and 8 inches.
Completely seal off the crack area between ports with Rim seal
207 and smooth off
Allow epoxy to cure for 24 hours.
Inject Rim seal epoxy into ports, making sure to limit PSI to
around 50 PSI AS NOT TO STRESS THE CRACK.
EPOXY INJECTION PROCEDURES

The preparation and installation procedures are just as critical as choosing
the correct product to inject into surface cracks. As we know most cracks in
basements will show signs of weeping water, causing heavy mineral deposits
to form along cracks, and in the cracks, so cleaning the cracks before
injecting is critical for the injection system to work.]
74
SITE CONDITIONS
Drill holes on opposing side of the fracture in an alternating pattern
approximately 45-degree angles to intersect the crack at about half the
depth of the fracture.
Spacing of packers is subject to the size of the fracture.
Flush drill holes to remove all drill waste from holes to ensure the
packer has a strong bond.
Install packers and tighten to form a strong bond, and prepare injection
equipment.
Inject clean water with phosphoric acid through packers to flush all
mineral residues from areas to be injected.
Flush clean water through packers to remove all acid residues.
Start the injection process at the lowest packer and inject material till
the resin reaches the next packer.
Continue injection process to all packers making sure to move back
and re-inject packers to fill cracks
NEGATIVE SIDE WATERPROOFING

Negative side waterproofing is a waterproofing membrane that may be used
on the negative side of the wall to eliminate water ingress.
Water does have an effect on concrete and if the concrete was waterproof
and corrosion proof the industry would no longer have the need for
75
waterproofing membranes, coating or admixtures. Concrete has capillaries
which trap moisture and water and it is a duty of care of the builder to make
sure were possible to waterproof concrete.
The waterproofing of concrete on the negative side the waterproof
membrane must be mineral based (cement-based) to obtain the same
characteristics as the substrate to become one.
The membrane should offer some form of penetration as to adhere if
hydrostatic pressure builds behind the wall. Must be open to vapour diffusion
so water vapour can penetrate the membrane, and most of all free from
chlorides.
And of cause the membrane or coating must be able to withstand hydrostatic
pressure.
The other problem that occurs in negative side waterproofing is that all
concrete contain salts, and if sea water is present more salts.
Salts can become a problem as they are water soluble and can capillary
through the concrete matrix or through cracks in the concrete.
As water evaporates salts are left behind to form crystals which expand
almost double their size, which then can, and will, push through or off many
negative side waterproofing products.
In this case the negative membrane system must be made of polymers and
silicates which penetrate into the concrete matrix reducing the size of the
concrete pores thus reducing salt efflorescence.
We can see a lot must happen when we advise the client when installing
negative side water
In my opinion negative side waterproofing should be installed by experienced

and competent waterproofing contractors and applied as per the
recommended system below;
PROGRESS IS IMPOSSIBLE WITHOUT CHANGE, AND

THOSE WHO CANNOT CHANGE THEIR MINDS
CANNOT CHANGE ANYTHING
-GEORGE BERNARD SHAW
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NEGATIVE SIDE WATERPROOFING ON
CONCRETE SURFACES
Saw cut or needle punch concrete to wall/floor junction to 50mm wide
for water-stop fillet.
Wash walls down by high pressure water-blasting 3000 psi
Sweep away all surface water
Apply by low pressure spray EP waterproofing system
Allow curing for 4-5 days
Apply Mapei T40 grout 50mm wide to wall/floor junction and tool off
smooth
Apply first coat of Mapei Foundation or Gripset C-1P as a slurry coat
making sure to incorporate a polyester mat
Allow to tack off
Apply a further two coats of Foundation or C-1P chosen to a DFT no
less than 2.0 to 2.5m
77
JOINT SEALING
Sealant materials are the most extensively used waterproofing products
used today, but the most incorrectly used product.
There are many types of sealants on the market today which includes,
Acrylic, silicone, polyurethane, polysulphides, Butyl, epoxy, and MS sealant.
Joint sealing is used as a finished product or a waterproofing barrier before
waterproofing such as bond breakers.
Just about every construction project in Australia has some sort of sealant
installed to prevent water penetration.
The three areas referred to in joint sealant are caulking, sealants, and
glazing.
CAULKING- is a filler like no-more gaps which are mainly used for inside
works by painters. These materials have limited performance and expansion
properties and are usually painted over.
SEALANTS- have higher performance characteristics of expansion joint and
tilt panel construction which are available in a low modulus and a high
modulus.
GLAZING- are mainly silicones and because they have a high tensile strength
with lower elongation properties, they are mainly used in window and glass
installations that require less movement.
Everyone who has installed sealants think they are just filling a gap or
sealing around fixtures, improper installations will lead to failures.
The key steps are, joint preparation, priming of the joint, bond-breaker tape
or backing rod, applying and tooling off.
Like waterproofing the most important step, is preparation
SUCCESS IS NEVER FINAL. FAILURE IS NEVER FATAL. ITS

COURAGE THAT COUNTS
-BRUCE LEE
78
JOINT CONFIGURATIONS
79
80
IDENTIFYING JOINTS
The main jointing terminology used in the construction industry is as follows;
Construction joint.
Isolation joint
Control joint
Expansion joint
Saw joints.
Construction joints, are used for construction sequences as to allow for the
next concrete pour to take place.
Isolation joints, isolate a slab from something else, (IE columns)
Control joints, are used to reduce shrinkage and control cracking.
Expansion or movement joints, are designed to accommodate expansion and
contraction of the substrate
Saw cuts, to control cracking in concrete.
Joints are based on resistance, configurations, formation, locations, type of
structure, and function.
There is no sealant on the market perfect for all jointing applications so it is
a critical aspect of the job to make sure the correct sealant is installed to
accommodate the movement of the joint.
Property MS Polymer Polyurethane Silicone
Environmental friendliness 10 5 9
Non-bubbling 10 6 10
Low temperature gun ability 10 8 10
Slump resistance 10 10 10
Quick cure 10 7 10
Storage stability 10 7 9
Body (tooling) 8 10 8
Weather resistance 8 6 10
Adhesion to various substrates 10 5 8
Mechanical properties 10 10 10
Heat resistance, mechanical stability 9 8 10
Non-dirt pickup 10 10 5
Stain resistance 8 8 5
Paint's ability with water-based paint 10 10 3
Construction Sealant Performance Comparison
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IMPORTANT TECHNICAL INFORMATION
ELONGATION OF MEMBRANES
The elongation of membranes has been a key factor with contractors when
choosing a waterproofing product.
Most contractors are not aware that membrane systems on the market today
have to meet a classification under AS 4858-2004 which was put in place to
test the performance of the membrane for elasticity,tensile strength, vapour
transmission and chemical attack.
For years we used Acrylic membranes reinforced with 225 gsm fibreglass
with no issues other than workmanship, wet seal Australia used a rigid
resin-based product for wet areas for many years with the only concern being
drummy screeds.
Now we have membranes that are broken into classifications ranging from
class 1 to class 3.
This does not mean we are not allowed to use a class 1 membrane in a wet
area, its because these membranes have a flexible range below 65% so a
bond breaker between 100mm and 75mm has to be installed.
Class 2 membranes must have a flexible range between 65% and 200%,
which means the bond breaker needs to be around 35mm to allow for 5mm of
movement.
Class 3 membranes must have a flexible range over 300% so most do not
need a bond breaker but 12mm is acceptable.
Most of the membranes being installed today for wet area waterproofing are
latex-based, polyurethane-based and two-part polymer-based systems with a
few contractors installing bitumen sheet membranes.
So I presume these membranes all passed when AS 4848-2004 was
introduced to the market, but what about NOW.
The flexibility and elasticity of a waterproofing membrane when fully bonded
to a substrate will start to feel the different stresses that are bestowed on
these membranes such as thermal expansion, lateral flexing and restricted
and unrestricted movement of the membrane system.
IN MY OPINION, A SHEET MEMBRANE SYSTEM SHALL ALWAYS OUT

PERFORM A LIQUID APPLIED MEMBRANE SYSTEM.
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When a flexible membrane is bonded to a substrate, there is no flexibility of
the membrane system due to its fully bonding to the substrate.
So if the membrane has 500% elongation when not restricted, when the
membrane is fully bonded to a substrate and the membrane becomes
restricted, the membranes 500% elongation becomes zero, no movement at
all as it is fully bonded?
In my opinion, All liquid applied monolithic membrane systems that exist on

the market today should have a MINIMUM DFT requirement as follows;
AREA DFT-MM MINIMUM MAXIMUM COATS

LIFT PITS 3.0 2.0 3.0 3
BASEMENT 3.0 2.0 3.0 3
RETAINING 3.0 2.0 3.0 3
WALLS
PODIUMS 3.0 3.0 3.0 3
PLANTER 3.0 3.0 3.0 3
BOX
WATER 2.0 2.0 3.0 3
FEATURE
WET AREAS 1.2 1.2 1.5 2-3
WET AREA 0.6 0.5 0.6 2
WALLS
BALCONIES 2.0 2.0 3.0 3
ROOF AREAS 3.0 3.0 3.0 3
SWIMMING 2.0 2.0 3.0 3
POOLS
I think all liquid applied membranes should be a minimum of three coats as

the DFT of the membrane system will give the membrane more durability and
a longer expectancy.
When comparing products or apples with apples, rather than rely on data
sheets, testing results or manufacturing representatives telling you this is
the best membrane to use, ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION?
IS THE MEMBRANE FIT FOR THAT PARTICULAR PURPOSE, AND WILL I

ACHIEVE THE CORRECT DFT IN TWO COATS?
83
SPOT THE MISTAKES
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EVERYTHING THAT IS PATCHED AFTER A MEMBRANE
SYSTEM HAS FULLY CURED WILL COMPROMISE AND
WEAKEN THE INTEGRITY OF THE WHOLE WATERPROOFING
SYSTEM.
Copyright 2014 by John Blase
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical
methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief
quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by
copyright law. For permission requests, write or contact the publisher.
SUCCESSFUL PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS LOOKING

FOR OPPORTUNITIES TO HELP OTHERS.
UNSUCCESSFUL PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS
ASKING, `WHAT`S IN IT FOR ME?
BRIAN TRACY
117

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WATERPROOFING PRODUCTS

DO IT ONCE-DO IT RIGHT-FIXED FOR GOOD

It is difficult, but not impossible, to conduct strictly honest

THE IMPORTANCE OF WATERPROOFING

Water damage causes rotting of timber and timber finishes, corrosion of

With all the problems we have with waterproofing the importance of

THE MEMBRANE ROLE

FOR ALL, WATERPROOFING MEMBRANE SYSTEMS TO WORK AS INTENDED

Polyurethane membranes shall be in limited in their role in the succeeding two

WHY DO WE HAVE PROBLEM?

WHAT CAN WE DO?

LEAVE WATERPROOFING WITH EXPERIENCED

Blinding lift pit

Shall always be a sheet membrane system, preferably a two layered torch

Should always be a two-part cement based system such as Mapelastic Smart

BEST PRODUCTS FOR UNDER-SLAB WATERPROOFING

Where we throw the issues when establishing these types of membrane

Architects and Engineers specify waterproofing products for large projects

Below is a list of waterproofing membranes that are currently on the market

Good products can be sold by honest advertising. If you

In some cases clay based membranes such as Bentonite systems require

Bentonite or clay based membrane systems are not best

For all waterproofing membrane systems to work as intended, the control

A good drainage system shall provide protection for the

We dont recommend PP Coreflute boards as they sweat between membrane

EDUCATION IS WHEN YOU READ THE FINE PRINT. EXPERIENCE IS WHAT

Each year in Queensland millions of dollars are spent on secondary

THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF PVC WATER STOPS.

Concrete has issues adhering to concrete.

Problems with warping in concrete.

HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS

URETHANE WATER STOPS

THE GOOD AND THE BAD OF HYDROPHILIC WATER STOPS

Swelling and shrinking are reversible procedures.

They expand to every crack and cavity.

They are more suitable for fresh water

Can be reinforced with stainless wire mesh to stop snaking,

They are not suitable for expansion joints

Swell prematurely if rained on or ground is moist or wet.

Can be displaced if not installed correctly.

Have limited dry/wet cycles and will disintegrate in time.

It is my opinion that hydrophilic/urethane water stops are much easier to

My opinion is that; MOST PVC WATER STOPS PERFORM AT 75%

BASEMENT WALL WATERPROOFING

BEST PRODUCTS FOR BASEMENT CONCRETE

BEST PICKS ARE AS FOLLOWS;

These masonary walls in my opinion fall into two categories;

2. Noncritical masonry walls above ground that are separating two

SLAB EDGE DAMPNESS

Bitumen membranes or bitumen emulsions can be installed on a damp

ONLY THE WISEST AND STUPIDEST OF MEN NEVER CHANGE.

It is critical that All waterproofing membrane systems installed below ground

BETTER PROTECTION PROPERTIES.

Critical retaining walls

Noncritical retaining walls

MEMBRANE PROTECTION & DRAINAGE

Must be installed below the footing as below;

TILT PANEL WATERPROOFING AS WRITTEN.

Cut all panels shims flush

1. A membrane system which has tiles directly fixed to the waterproofing

My opinion would be whatever the membrane system chosen, the film

From this membrane system we choose two quality membrane systems as

1. AMI Ultraflex Rx, a urethane-acrylic reinforced membrane system is UV

2. Enviro-Pro, an elastomeric acrylic reinforced membrane system with