UNOFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE CYCLING REVOLUTION
Unlikely Uganda by Emma Scragg
A bicycle tour through Uganda that kicked off
with a ride on the back of a scooter-taxi to catch
a leaky fishing boat across Africa’s largest lake
promised to be a unique adventure. And it was.
Our journey across Lake Victoria took three
hours and unlike an infamous previous trip,
the weathered Dutch captain remembered to
put the bungs in this time. Pulling up on the
shore of Bulaga Island in the Ssese archipelago,
we celebrated our safe passage with a swim
and cool beers on the beach. Chef and keen
mountain-biker Manu prepared the first of
many delectable camp dinners while we were
introduced to a line up of generous dome tents
– our homes for the next fortnight. Later our
fearless leader and owner of Escape Adventures,
John Etherington, described in more detail the
route and adventures that lay ahead.
My cycling companions comprised three Poms,
two Canadians and a Kiwi with ages spanning
20 to 70. The support crew along with myself,
an Australian, made a total of eleven. It was a
diverse and entertaining group of travellers.
Normally an independent cycle tourer, I slipped
easily into the comfort of having someone else
design the route, negotiate permits, hunt ‘n’
gather and carry my gear.
Uganda did not feel overly threatening compared
to other parts of Africa I have previously visited,
yet we enjoyed an unconventional safety in
numbers. Whenever we stopped curious locals
would materialise and observe us with an
unwavering intensity. Tricky when you’re busting.
We found that the group could conveniently
distract the spectators while those in need found
privacy behind a nearby rock or tree.
Our first day’s riding allowed a pleasant reunion
between our bodies and bikes, with all the
usual mechanical and physical teething issues.
Children shouted and waved at us while
truckloads of men cheered, or perhaps jeered.
Over and above their friendliness we were
undeniably alien with slinky clothing, helmets
and mud-splattered white skin.
Getting off Bulaga Island necessitated another
boat journey – this time on a heavily overladen
ferry. Like most public transport in East Africa,
the maximum load stencilled on each bus, boat
and truck is actually a challenge, to be at least
doubled whenever possible. This trip was no
exception as our support bus ‘Sabrina’ was
somewhat precariously squeezed on. Like Dr
Who’s Tardis, ‘Sabrina the Bike Witch’ was a larger-
than-life essential on our tour – constantly on our
tail and ready to offer sustenance for the weary,
shelter from rain or protection from wild animals.
UnderGround is published by Ground Effect, PO Box 4536, 10 B Tussock Lane, Christchurch, New Zealand. Phone +64 3 379 9174 ernie@groundeffect.co.nz www.groundeffect.co.nz
Back on the mainland we headed west, away
from the capital Kampala, towards Uganda’s south
west corner and the Rwanda border. Our route
mostly avoided main roads with eighty percent
of our riding on dirt roads peppered with the
occasional singletrack. When arterial roads were
unavoidable, we experienced African traffic
from the safety of Sabrina’s belly. When cycling,
the main hazards were potholes, rocks, over-
enthusiastic children and the odd chicken.
Alas gentle terrain seldom lasts forever. On
the second cycling day we left the steamy
lowlands for the cooler, more temperate hills –
known as Uganda’s Switzerland. Our campsite
at Lake Bunyoni was almost 2000 metres high.
The lake stretched its watery fingers between
steep slopes patch-worked with intensively
farmed crops and small mud villages. The
next morning, along steep and winding dirt
roads, we made our way slowly through the
folded landscape towards the border town of
Kisoro. Beaming children in dazzling pink and
blue uniforms called to us “Wazungu, how are
yooooooooou?”.
Neighbouring Rwanda enticed us with the
promise of meeting our Darwinian forefathers,
the gorillas. Apparently the first group of cyclists
to cross the border for some time, we received
a warm welcome from the officials. News of
our arrival spread quickly and on the highway to
Ruhengeri we felt like Tour de France stars. The
road was lined with enthusiastic fans, waving
and shouting “bonjour” while stretching out their
palms to be slapped as we passed.
We were not disappointed by the substantial
cash outlay required to obtain permits so we
could visit the gorillas. One mesmerising hour
with a family of 14 on a forested slope of the
Virunga Volcanoes made our overnight diversion
into this mountainous nation unforgettably
worthwhile.
Back in Uganda, we pushed north towards
Queen Elizabeth National Park. Villagers
swarmed us to check out our shiny bikes. Disc
brakes, shocks, gears and computers fascinated
them. So different from their own ingenious
wooden bicycles... Flintstone-style wheels
fashioned from tree rounds held together with
old planks, saplings and vines.
Queen Elizabeth and Lake Mburo National Parks
offered typical African sunbaked landscapes of
fever trees and grasslands. The ambient grunting
of nearby hippos made for a memorable evening
at the end of that day’s ride. Deceivingly cuddly,
these lethal animals demonstrated their raw
power late that night as they chased each other
past our tents. At a fighting weight of around
two tonnes they are frighteningly fast on their
feet. Fortunately, that was our first and last close
encounter with one of Africa’s more dangerous
animals.
Cycling through Uganda’s National Parks was
exhilarating with buffalo, baboons, grazing
zebra, Ugandan kob, impala, giraffe and
warthogs in attendance. With a mixture of
trepidation and excitement we crossed damp
elephant footprints at one point. Sabrina
was always close behind the peloton as an
emergency refuge. Butterfly alley was a before-
you-die magical wildlife moment – a stretch
of damp dirt road where our whirring wheels
stirred up clouds of butterflies. Just before we
Issue 64 August 2010
made camp, we were also lucky to spot a pride
of lions hunting.
The last four days in eastern Uganda were far
less wild. Life was dominated by espressos,
fruit smoothies, luscious cakes, internet cafés,
relaxation and a bit of cycling. We crossed the
equator (an obligatory photo stop) as Sabrina
carried us towards Uganda’s adventure capital,
Jinja on the Victoria Nile. The gushing waters
attract foreign money and plenty of confusion as
adrenalin junkies and the good-willed live side
by side. Our rest day options included r ‘n’ r in
the city, rafting some of the best white water in
the world, or helping out at some inspiring local
community projects authored by
www.softpowereducation.com
Our last cycling leg took us around the fringes
of Jinja on hidden singletrack. John guided us
through a labyrinth of mud huts, local meeting
places and plantations of banana and cane.
A lot of fun but all too soon we were back at
the banks of the Nile, somewhat improbably
piling our bodies and bicycles onto a long boat
paddled by one man. It was a hilarious albeit
slightly precarious crossing. However it softened
us for an even smaller vessel that took us to our
last stop, the secluded and totally idyllic Hairy
Lemon island retreat. The perfect finish to an
inspiring trip.
Uganda and Rwanda, both with unfortunate and
bloody histories, may not be the first nations to
spring to mind when planning a cycling holiday.
However, both have bounced back from their
tragic pasts with the same optimistic gusto
and enthusiasm with which they greet tourists.
Bicycles are highly valued and versatile tools
in East Africa. Travelling by bike provides an
instant connect with the locals. I can’t think of a
better way to experience these two spectacular
nations.
The Nitty Gritty
Uganda is 10% smaller than New Zealand but
with almost seven times as many people. It
offers a colourful diversity of culture, abundant
friendly faces and rich, tropical landscapes.
English is the official language in Uganda; French
in Rwanda.
Emirates offers the most direct routes from
Australia or New Zealand to Entebbe via Dubai.
Options abound from the UK.
John at Escape Adventures made the trip fun
and practical. Sadly Uganda is no longer a
standard offering but they offer trips to Kenya
and Tanzania from June to October.
www.escapeadventures.co.nz
Ernie’s Tech Tips Trail Tales
According to legend, Jack Kerouac wrote his seminal road trip novel ‘On the Road’ Accessibility
in just three weeks, on a continuous 36 metre scroll of paper that he cut to size and • Gravity Downhill Club Kapiti has leased a
taped together. We can now reveal that literary scholar and eBay shopper Ernie has substantial chunk of local forest and is busy creating
discovered a previously unpublished manuscript of the sequel ‘On the Road Skills’ a network of shuttle-access trails ranging from fun
where Kerouac applied his caffeine-addled brain to the art and science of navigating ‘n’ flowing to steep ‘n’ fast. Ground Effect helped
the concrete jungle on two wheels. cover the costs of building a bridge over the
shuttle road, and provided trail building books
On the Road Skills to enlighten the workforce. Being private land
The bike is a great tool for getting around town. But many of us have developed bad and mindful of liability issues, access is restricted
habits that add risk and annoy drivers – which in turn adds more risk. The wisdom of many to signed and paid-up members. Descend on
experienced commuters and advocacy groups is summarised here. Some may seem dhkapiti.weebly.com to join or lend a hand.
counterintuitive but don’t be tempted to cherry-pick those that suit – the approach only works • Mackenzie Country locals are busy developing the
as a whole not in isolation. Lake Tekapo Recreational Park. Located within
1. See existing forest 1km from town, the intention is
Traffic awareness is your first line of defence. Take a continuous stock take of what’s around to foster a range of activities including mountain
you. Glance over your shoulder every ten seconds or so – your peripheral vision lets you see biking. Ground Effect chipped in for the hire of
what’s back there with only a minimal twist of your head. some rock crushing equipment and donated a set
of trail books. Check it out at www.ecan.govt.nz/
2. Be Seen advice/recreation-and-parks/lake-tekapo/Pages/
The most frequent ‘learner’ mistake is to hug the kerb. It feels safe tucked away from speeding tekapo-regional-park.aspx
cars but it’s actually quite a risky place to hang out. Drivers seldom wait for an appropriate
place to pass. They’ll squeeze past as soon as they can without altering their course – often • With the drought officially over in southern NSW,
dangerously close to you. Better to guard your lane – about a metre into the road – away from the Eurobodalla Cycling Club is now fighting a
car doors and the assorted hazards that linger in the gutter. Occupy the centre of the lane losing battle with the sudden explosion of foliage
when you are able to travel at the speed of the traffic or if it feels unsafe to be overtaken. Move threatening to swallow the Maulbrooks Mtb tracks.
to the side and let cars pass when you feel they can do so safely. Ground Effect funded a scrub cutter to help battle
the triffids. The club has recently been granted
3. Light Up access to develop another trail network nearby.
Wear bright clothing with reflective bits – especially at dawn and dusk or when grey and More at eurobodalla.org.au/cycling.html
stormy. Use a headlight, tail light and reflectors at night.
Ground Effect has always supported initiatives
4. The Invisible Man that improve the lot for cyclists. If your club or
Make every effort to be seen, then assume you’re not. Watch drivers’ eyes to see if they look in organisation has a worthy project that needs
your direction. Guard against them turning in front of you even when you’ve got right of way. funds to make it real, bang a note to
Position yourself where drivers expect to see other traffic... so avoid riding on the footpath, slushfund@groundeffect.co.nz.
especially against the flow on the ’wrong side of the road’. Never launch across a side road
from the footpath.
5. Be Predictable
Hitting The Streets
... but never boring. Avoid erratic movement, weaving though traffic, manualing along the kerb • Shopping when you’ve got
and the like. Ride smooth and straight so cars can avoid you with ease. the munchies or reviewing
eateries with a couple of
6. Communicate hundred hungry kilometres
Use hand gestures correctly. And we ain’t talking flipping the bird to bad drivers or half- under your belt are equally
heartedly raising a limp arm. Instead, check behind, then stick your arm out assertively to foolhardy pursuits. Yet when the Kiwi Brevet rolled
indicate your intentions. If this feels scary or wobbly then “more practice riding with one hand, into St Arnaud the Style Police awarded two
grasshopper”. Remember: look, signal, move. thumbs up and a set of crossed knives ‘n forks to
Elaine’s Alpine Café. Service, food, coffee and
7. Start With Care sandflies were all first class – their omelette’s so
Before starting off, position yourself to be seen from a distance. Wait for the Red Sea to part popular that they ran out of chickens.
then hop on your bike from the left hand side. Starting on the footpath or between parked
cars makes it more difficult for drivers to spot you. Select an easier gear before stopping so
you can get up to speed quickly and without the wobbles. Practise slow riding in a straight
Gig Guide
line at your local park. • Whaka 100, 17 October. The ultimate 100km
challenge around Rotorua’s legendary singletrack,
8. Hazard Warning but there’s something for everyone with 25km,
Scan ahead for poor road surfaces or obstacles. Avoid, or treat carefully, slippery painted 50km and team options. www.n-duro.co.nz/whaka
surfaces, metal service covers, autumn leaves, gravel and oil patches. • Molesworth Muster, 6 November. 80km of shingle
9. Prepare to Stop road from Molesworth Station to Hanmer through
Fingers should be permanently resting on your brake levers so you can stop on demand. If this New Zealand’s largest high country station.
feels unnatural then adjust your levers closer to the handlebars. www.bluedogevents.co.nz
10. Anticipate the Left Hook • Sydney to the Gong Bike Ride, 7 November. Join
The dreaded slip lane, standard left turn or roundabout all invite vehicles to cut you off as 10,000 cyclists for Australia’s premier one-day
they turn while you continue straight ahead. Sadly cycle lanes are often poorly designed – be recreational cycling event, a choice of 58 or 90km.
on your toes where they fade out or are crossed by other traffic. Be aware of the ‘courteous www.gongride.org.au
driver’ waving a car across your path when you’re in a cycle lane undertaking a queue of • Dirt Works 100km Classic, 7 November. Only
stationary traffic. Also guard against car doors opening on you and vehicles (especially buses) one hour’s drive from central Melbourne and 40
pulling away from the kerb in directly in front of you. minutes from the airport this event incorporates
some of the best singletrack in the state in Wombat
11. Beat the Blind Spot State Forest & Lerderderg State Park. There is
Don’t ride or stop where a driver is unlikely to see you. Long vehicles like trucks and buses cut
across corners when turning. Never cycle on their inside when approaching intersections. absolutely no tarmac, guaranteed.
www.maxadventure.com.au/100kmclassic/vic/
12. Give Way • The Highland Fling, 13-14 November. Australia’s
It’s staggering how often cyclists sneak a furtive free-left turn without checking for other traffic. Mtb Marathon Championships – 110km starting and
Don’t assume there isn’t a car driving on the shoulder, a bus pulling over or another cyclist finishing in the picturesque village of Bundanoon,
occupying the left hand corridor that you’re turning into. NSW. Enter as a Full Flinger (solo 110km), Flinging
13. Ride with a Friend Threesomes (relay team of three), Half Fling (solo
Getting around by bike is convenient, healthy and fun. Ride with an experienced cyclist to 55km), or give it a go with a Casual Fling (solo
learn good habits and scout quiet cycling routes. 14km). www.wildhorizons.com.au
• Lake Taupo Cycle Challenge, 27 November. Ride
And if this list is too lengthy to ingest, tattoo this into your top tube: see, be seen,
communicate. 160km on the road around Lake Taupo with 1000’s
of your best mates. Get a team together or go solo.
Further reading www.cyclechallenge.org.nz
Bikeability Cycle Training, Cycling Advocates’ Network (can.org.nz/cycle-training)
For up-to-date information on all Ground Effect
How to Not Get Hit by Cars by Michael Bluejay (bicyclesafe.com) events check out www.groundeffect.co.nz/events
Inside Out We sneak a closer look at the Frosty Boy and
Ice Queen winter riding tops.
Often Licked, Never Beaten
Remember the winters of our childhood? Crisp mornings with the bitter tingle of frost tickling your nostrils. Cruising to school on your one speed
with a hand knitted scarf wrapped four times around your face. No rain and no helmet of course.
The best selling Frosty Boy and women’s Ice Queen were born of these memories. These combination tops have a windproof fleece front and
thermal back. There’s a certain liberation when going light and fast in cold, dry conditions – without a jacket and layers of padding. Laminated
WindFoil™ fleece shoulders, sleeve fronts and collar take the edge off cold winds. They’re best worn with a light merino base layer to manage
sweat against your body. Slim fitting, they feature an extra long front zip to manage your body temperature in a wide range of conditions.
The designs has been tweaked and refined over their ten-year life. The rear pockets now have security zips, are low profile and lined with a
moisture management treated mesh – no more sweaty lower back. The original blue with navy has given way to today’s colour palette of titanium
grey, limelight and burnt orange.
So as we pass the shortest day and move into winter proper, we can anticipate those invigorating cold, dry winter rides with Frosty Boy. Often
licked, never beaten. Frase, Ground Effect Product Designer

Frosty Boy NZ$169

Fabric: WindFoil™ with micro-fleece 100
Sizes: S, M, L, XL
Colours: Limelight/Titanium;
Burnt Orange/Silver;
Titanium/Burnt Orange
Weight: 410 gm

Jack Bites
With the UK weather apparently predictable only in its unpredictability, a suitable
arsenal of clothes to combine in various ways is something of a must if you’re keen
Cherie-ness next to Godley-ness. Photo: Lee Howell/kaptured.com

Ice Queen NZ$169
Fabric: WindFoil™ with micro-fleece 100
Sizes: WS, WM, WL, WXL
Colours: Burnt Orange/Silver; Ice Blue/Titanium
Weight: 350 gm
WindFoil™
WindFoil™ fleece combines the
quick-drying and insulative benefits of polyester fleece
with a totally windproof yet highly breathable barrier.
The WindFoil™ membrane is sandwiched between the
micro-fleece outer and wicking-mesh liner to provide
effective protection in cold, dry conditions.
to ride all year round (and you are, aren’t you?). New Zealand’s Ground Effect
has an extensive range of well-thought-out kit that’s all designed to play happily
together, with the Frosty Boy covering “crikey, it’s really cold out” eventualities.
Cut is eminently sensible non-flappy but not too snug, as befits a garment
designed to be worn on top of a base layer and under a shell. It’s notably long in
the body, and of course even longer at the back. The sleeves are a decent length
and incorporate thumb loops in the cuffs to stop them riding up – something of a
Ground Effect trademark.
As is typical of Ground Effect gear, you won’t be overburdened by features but
get all the ones you need. Reflective trim along the zip, on the elbows, around the
back of the collar and across the top of the twin zippered rear pockets enhances
visibility. And of course, there’s a tube repair patch tucked away in a secret
location...
We’ve always been impressed by Ground Effect stuff, and the Frosty Boy is no
exception - it’s light, it’s warm, and it’s been through a healthy number of wet/
muddy/wash cycles and still looks like new.
Verdict: This is another solid performer from Ground Effect – it may not get cold
enough to need it all that often, but when it does you’ll be glad of it.
Performance 5/5 www.bikemagic.com
 free bandanna Got a couple of mates who are itching to join the Cycling Revolution, and who live at a different
address from you? Scratch down their details and we’ll spring you a free Bandanna.
First Name: . .........................................Surname: .......................................... First Name: . .........................................Surname: ..........................................
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I have a complaint about your Double Happys. Whilst when

originally purchased, I subscribed to all the splatter about not
wearing out and lasting for ages, I didn’t take it too literally. The
problem is that I’d now quite like a new pair, but this requires
approval from the Chief Financial Officer (my wife). Problem is she asks me several questions before
granting approval:
Q. Are they uncomfortable? A. No.
Q. Have they worn out? A. Well the stitching is slightly flattened under my bum.
Q. Have they faded or is the fabric damaged? A. No, not really.
Q. What’s wrong with your current pair? A. Ahh, nothing really, I quite like the new colour though.
The damn things are coming up eight years old with 100’s of muddy/dusty/rainy/sunny rides chalked
up. So my complaint (if that’s what you want to call it) is that I can’t wear them out. Damn you Ground
Effect for making the best bike shorts out there. Looks like I’m stuck with the old model for quite some
time yet :-) Glenn, Christchurch

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