Comprehensive study on different types of Hand Loom

1. Primitive Loom or Vertical Loom:

Primitive loom is normally by sinking the frame into the ground. Here the work is done inside
the pit by using both feet. The framework is of bamboo here. These types of loom had been
known to be in use in 5000 to 6000 years B.C. primitive loom is still used for weaving silk
shirting and sharees, silk pieces, muslin etc. by derivative weavers.

Primitive Loom or Vertical Loom in Weaving

Features of Primitive Loom or Vertical Loom:
Some key features of primitive loom have pointed out in the below:

1. Primitive loom must be smooth and heavy.

2. This loom has to be known to be in use 600year B.C.

3. Primitive loom is used for finer yarn.

4. It is throw shuttle loom.

5. This loom is made of metal or wood.

Advantages of Primitive Loom or Vertical Loom:

Those are-

1. It can work with jacquard and dobby attachment.

2. We can achieve desired quality fabric by using skilled labor.

3. First fabric is produced by using this loom.

4. Lower cost of primitive loom set up.

Disadvantages of Primitive Loom or Vertical Loom:

Those are-

1. Slay action is too much weak here which caused heavy or compact fabric during
weaving.

2. This type of loom accommodative a small can weft.

3. Here, warp yarn is drawn directly from the warp beam.

2. Pit Loom:

Pit loom is set by sinking four posters into the ground and with an overhang slay. In case of pit
loom, the yarn work inside the pit so that the warp yarn may absorb moisture and better weaving
will result. In this loom, the combination of slay and shuttle boxes. In 1773 A.D john key of
bury, England invented the fly shuttle. This invention was an extremely important event in the
history and development of weaving.
 Pit Loom machine used in Weaving

Features of Pit Loom in Weaving:

Important characteristics of pit loom have pointed out in the following:

1. We can achieve texture fabric by using this type of loom.

2. An average weaver can weave a medium width fly shuttle loom at 80-110 pics per
minute.

3. It is a fly shuttle loom.

4. Here, shuttle is transferred from one box to another.

5. To control moisture, looms are settled in floor that way yarn can get moisture.

6. Production quantity of this loom is double than primitive loom or vertical loom.

Advantages of Pit Loom:

Those are-

1. Texture fabric is produced by using this loom.

 2. Higher production in pit loom.

3. It can accommodate a great quality of weft yarn in the pirn winding package.

4. An average weaver can weave in case of pit loom.

5. Easy control of moisture here.

6. Flu shuttle and back beams have been introduced here to remove some fabric faults such
as yarn breakage, knot etc.

Disadvantages of Pit Loom:

Those are-

1. Too tough to control more number of heald shaft.

2. This types of loom set up is difficult.

3. Pit loom is one types of hand loom, so its tough to achieve higher production from here.

Throw Shuttle & Fly Shuttle (Pit loom & Frame Loom)

Throw Shuttle

The throw shuttle is a loom in which the shuttle is thrown across the shed by hand. Though this
loom is easy to operate, yet the fly shuttle in most places is replacing it. The reason: it is
uneconomical and its low quantum of production. The loom is fitted to four posts fixed on the
ground. The shedding is effected by a set of healts operated by the foot. The beating up of the
weft is done by a bamboo reed to a sley. The importane parts of the Throw shuttle loom are:

a Slay and sley: it is a wooden frame accommodating shuttle box, sley-race reed and
swings forward and backward. In its forward motion the last pick of weft is beaten up to
the fall of the cloth, and in its backward motion, the shuttle is allowed to pass over the
slay-race.
b Shuttle box: it is a wooden case for shuttle with the spindle (pirn) and a picker. The
shuttle box is grooved inside lengthwise to accommodate the picker. The top of the box is
open and the shuttle rests in the box for the intermediate period between two successive
picks.
c Shuttle and the Spindle: the shuttle is placed as vertical for the weft and passes through
in the process of weaving. When the loom is stationary, the shuttle remains in the shuttle
box. The shuttle contains the pirn on which the weft yarn is wound.
d Picker: it is a piece of leather placed in grooves inside a shuttle box on which the spindle
is kept. Picker is used to give blow to the shuttle to drive it from one box to the other.
e Reed: the reed is the comb through which the warp passes.
f Healt or headles: healts are required to form a shed, which contains a series of twin
loops.
g Treadle: the treadle is a pedal or level with which a healt is connected by means of cards.
h Lease rods: the division of warp threads into one, two and two, and so on is termed as
base. The two rods passed between these divisions of warp and are known as lease rod.
i Warp beam: the roller upon which the warp yarn is wound and fitted on the bottom at
the back of the loom is termed as warp-beam or weavers beam.
j Cotton beam: the roller is fitted in front of the loom, upon which the cloth is wound
while weaving.

Throw Shuttle Mechanism

It consists of a hollow cubic structure with 4 vertical posts- one at each corner. These posts have
four sides and there is notch on each post. On these notches lies the cloth and the warp beams.
On the lower half of this hollow structure, there are two horizontal wooden bars connecting the
vertical posts on each side. There is a wooden bar connecting the upper ends of two posts on
two sides of the operator on which is kept a circular bamboo pole. On this bamboo pole a string
is rolled. The free ends of which tie the healt-rods. The healt consists of two string loops
crossing one another.

The warp beam and the cloth beam are circular wooden beams and on one side, it contains a
hole. A bamboo-stick is passed through this and put against the horizontal beams fixed at the
lower half of the wooden posts. This is known as the break, which keeps the warp, and the cloth
beam fixed on a particular position. The reed consists of bamboo teeth kept tight by two
bamboo frames.

Fly Shuttle & Its mechanism

The fly shuttle pit loom is the most popular handloom in the country except in Assam. This
loom is the most popular and widely disturbed loom in India. This is an improved type of loom,
which increased three to four times the production of the weavers. It has all the advantages of
the throw shuttle, except for, weaving intricate extra weft patterns. The whole loom rests on four
vertical posts called Makhong. In this loom, the sley carries a race board and 2 shuttle boxes,
one on either side, with a picker propelled by means of strings. This is the major difference
between the fly shuttle pit loom and the throw shuttle pit loom. From the opposite end of the
weaver starts the warp beam connected to the posterior two vertical posts then the warp passes
over to another bar called phira, connected to the upper position of the posterior posts. Then it
moves to the weaver passing through the healts and the comb finally over to one beam in front
of the weaver, called phira, which supports the cloth to be made.
The main advantage of the fly shuttle pit loom is that despite its increased rate of production, it
can produce fabrics with higher counts of superfine yarn. The fly shuttle oscillating sley works
at a higher speed than the throw shuttle sley, resulting in an increase in the rate of production:
this loom can have on an average 20 to 300 picks per minute.

Throw Shuttle & Fly Shuttle Difference:

The throw shuttle is a loom in which the shuttle is thrown across the shed by hand. In a fly
shuttle loom, the shuttle is sent across the shed by means of a mechanical picker. This is an
improved type of loom, which increased three to four times the production of the weavers. It has
all the advantages of the throw shuttle, except for, weaving intricate extra weft patterns.

3. Frame Loom:

Frame looms almost has similar mechanism that ground looms hold. The loom was made of rods
and panels fastened at the right angles to construct a form similar to a box to make it more handy
and manageable. Frame loom is being utilized even until now because of its portability and
economy.

Frame loom machine used in Weaving

Features of Frame Loom in Weaving:

Some key characteristics of frame loom have pointed out in the following:
 1. Twill, satin fabric can be produced by using this types of loom machine.

2. The movement of the slay is given by the left hand of the weaver.

3. This types of loom is made on a frame

4. Beam diameter may high in case of frame loom.

Advantages of Frame Loom:

Advantages of frame loom in weaving are in the below:

1. Here, long width of fabric can be woven as narrow ones.

2. It has increased speed as one hand of the weaver operates the picking handle and the
other remains free to operate the slay.

3. Ensure better selvedge here.

4. Larger number of heald can conveniently be operated.

5. Let off is done here by pawl lever arrangement.

Disadvantages of Frame Loom:

Those are in the following:

1. Fabric may compact in frame loom.

2. Here, its too tough to fit the level.

3. Cloth beam diameter is increased here as a result it becomes very large.

4. Chittaranjan Loom:

Chittaranjan loom is one of the types of semi-automatic loom which is made of iron and wood.
The terms which is commonly used in Bengali language is chittaranjan loom. Chittaranjan loom
also known as Japanize loom.
 Chittaranjan Loom machine in Weaving Technology

Features of Chittaranjan Loom:

The common features of chittaranjan loom are in the below:

1. Picking and shedding motion is used here as fly shuttle loom.

2. The main characteristics of chittaranjan loom lie in its beating up, take up and let-off
motion.

3. A five wheel take up motion has been adopted to regulate picks per inch.

4. For beat up two wheels upon the top shaft connect the slay at the two ends with two
livers.

5. Higher production rate is here.

Advantages of Chittaranjan Loom:

Chittaranjan loom contain some key advantages which are in the following:

1. Chittaranjan loom s more perfect for weaving coarse and medium fabric then finer yarns.

2. This types of loom has 80% efficiency.

 3. Chittaranjan loom ensure uniformity in the insertion of picks per inch by the use of five
wheel positive take up motion.

4. An average can conveniently run this loom.

5. This loom runs 120-140 picks per minute.

6. These types of loom also ensure uniform beat up.

Disadvantages of Chittaranjan Loom:

Different demerits of chittaranjan loom are-

1. Production rate is less over than modern loom.

2. 5 wheel positive take up motion is used here which gives jerky motion.

3. Chittaranjan loom is not an automatic loom.

4. Precise control of fraction of picks is not suitable here.

5. Hattersley Loom

Geaorge Hattersley and sons of Kighley developed the hattersley loom in the West Yorskshire of
England in 1856. This type of loom act in the same manner as like as power loom without the
movement of slay which either operated manually or by using power into the top shaft.
 Hattersley loom used in weaving factory

Features of Hattersley Loom:

Important characteristics of hatersley loom has pointed out in the following:

1. In case of hattersley loom, shedding is formed from the bottom shaft in case of plane
weave.

2. Shedding, beating up, picking, let off and taking up motions are automatically operated in
hattersley loom.

3. Hattersley loom is lighter then power loom.

4. Here, five wheel take up motion is used for completing take up actions.

5. This type of loom works as the same manner of power loom in weaving technology.
Advantages of Hatersley Loom:

Some key advantages of hattersley loom has mentioned in the following:

1. This type of loom is lighter than power loom.

2. In harresley loom, maximum motions are motive by using power.

3. An average weaver or operator can easily run this loom.

4. It also ensure uniform insertion of pick during fabric manufacturing.

5. Hattersley loom also ensure uniform beat up during fabric weaving.

Disadvantages of Hattersley Loom:

All the disadvantages of hattersley loom are-

1. In case of manual driving, more than 50'' read space cannot control.

2. Five wheel take up provides jerkey motion.

3. An operator cannot weave the fabric at the long period of time by using this machine.