Wolfe of Wortley

Exposed wood, and matte black; industrial fans, and Edison bulbs; this on-trend gem

stands in beautiful contrast to the quiet crown of Wortley Village.

We entered through the semi-permanent door of the winterized patio, and were seated

near the bar. Faux-charred beams support a brass-coloured tin ceiling. Open for less than a year,

Wolfe has already carved out a niche in the otherwise bland city of London, Ontario.

Gregg and Justin, the brothers behind Wolfe, grew up in Londons Old South. After working in

music as a booking agent and metal vocalist respectively they moved homeward and cut

their teeth in Londons downtown core: Night Owl in 2009, Early Bird in 2012, and eventually

the taco joint Rock Au Taco in the shuttered Night Owl space. Their culinary ventures have been

as hard hitting as the musical scene they were attracted to. Wolfe of Wortley contains the same

ethos, while maintaining enough refinement to set it apart.

The restaurant is small, but great things often come in small packages. 24 seats in the

main dining room with space for another 14 on the patio. The dishes, while filling, aren't huge

either; the concentration of both the space and the flavours makes for an unforgettable

experience.

Mine began with frustration, as I felt I waited too long for my first drink the cocktail

menu is so well crafted that waiting for a creation is hard but what I believed was rudeness on

the part of Matt, our server, was in fact respect. Never was our group rushed and, for a space

which often requires reservations two weeks in advance, the respect for the customers dining

pace was unexpected and welcome.

 The wait was worth it; the Smoked Manhattan was a thing of beauty. Bourbon, a sweet

red vermouth, bitters, the darkest maraschino cherry I have ever had the privilege of meeting, all

poured, at the table, into a cinnamon smoked glass. The quality ingredients were not disrespected

with some form of mix.

The menu is divided into Oysters, Salumi & Cheese, Starters, Produce, Protein, and

Desserts. Our party, as instructed by Matt, shared much of our choices: charcuterie board with

artisanal cheeses and house cured meats the duck prosciutto! all paired with fruits or nuts,

followed with a pear and lardo salad; the cold smoked oysters, presented in hickory smoke filled

bell-jar, with scotch, cherries, and orange slices to garnish. Matt was happy to not only explain

what lardo was a herb-flavoured variation of the fat of cured meat but to stop us from

ordering too much.

Thats a lot. He brushed his beard. The duck actually comes with vegetables, so I

would advise

He told us we would be satisfied, and we were: beef tongue, cooked so gently it dissolved

like a pt, served with a pure of red cabbage and a horseradish cream; rich duck breast with a

salted honey and garlic crust, served over wilted greens; pork loin with fresh, and cured, apples;

kale and bacon in a cream and cheddar sauce; fingerling potatoes, tossed with scallions, and

near-liquid brie.

The pork left a little to be desired, being slightly under-seasoned, but the bravery of

cooking beef tongue in London this being only the second restaurant I have visited which

serves the cut and the perfection of every other dish and drink raises the bar for dinning in this
slightly conservative city. At roughly $80 per person before the liquor tab, this is not a once-

weekly experience, but neither is this an experience that can be missed.