Exercise on Linear and Nonlinear Waves

Problem 1

%Wave Data
g=9.81;h=1.3;T=1.5;H=0.26;tetha=0;
%Calculation of Wave Lenght (L) & Wave Number (K)
Lo=1.56*T^2;
L=Lo*(tanh((2*pi()*h/Lo)^(3/4)))^(2/3);
k=2*pi/L;
w=2*pi/T;
eta=H/2*cos(tetha);
high=h+eta;
%Calculation of U using Linear Wave Theory
for i = 0:100
u1(i+1)=eta*g*T*cosh(k*(i*high/100))/(L*cosh(k*h));
end
%Calculation U using Chakrabarti method
for i = 0:100
u2(i+1)=eta*g*T*cosh(k*(i*high/100))/
(L*cosh(k*(h+eta)))*cos(tetha);
end
%Calculation U using Wheeler stretching method
for i = 0:100
u3(i+1)=eta*g*T*cosh(k*(i*high/100)*(h/(h+eta)))/
(L*cosh(k*h))*cos(tetha);
end
%Data read manually from R15BU(z).gif
u=[0.1,0.11,0.13,0.2,0.3,0.34,0.39,0.43,0.44,0.54];
z2=[-1.1,-0.99,-0.75,-0.49,-0.25,-0.19,-0.04,0.006,0.05,0.1];

%Plotting result into graph

z=linspace(-h,eta,101);
plot(u1,z,':r',u2,z,'bo',u3,z,'g--',u,z2,'bs',0,z);
grid on
xlabel('Horizontal particle velocity (U) in m/s')
ylabel('Water Depth (Z) in m')
title('Horizontal particle vecolity profile')
h = legend('LWT','Chakrabarti','Wheller stretching','R1BU(z).gif',4);
set(h,'Interpreter','none')

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 Horizontal particle vecolity profile
0.2

-0.2

-0.4
Water Depth (Z) in m

-0.6

-0.8

-1

-1.2 LWT
Chakrabarti
Wheller stretching
R1BU(z).gif
-1.4
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.8
Horizontal particle velocity (U) in m/s

Problem 2
%Problem 2 Wave Data
clc
g=9.81;h=6;T=10;H=1.2;tetha=0;
%Calculation of Wave Lenght (L), Wave Speed (C), Crest (Sc) & Trough
(St)
%from seabed
Lo=1.56*T^2;
L=Lo*(tanh((2*pi()*h/Lo)^(3/4)))^(2/3)
k=2*pi/L;
w=2*pi/T;
eta=H/2*cos(tetha);
C=L/T
Sc=h+eta
St=h-eta

Result Using Linear Wave Theory:

L = 74.7429 m
C = 7.4743 m/s
Sc = 6.6000 m
St = 5.4000 m

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Result using Dean Stream function theory (Dalrymple Java Applet):

From the graphics, we can read that the Length of the wave is (L) =
75.33m.
Therefore C=L/T=75.33/10=7.53 m/s.

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Sc = h+eta crest Sc = 6 + 0.78 = 6.78m
St = h-eta trough St = 6 0.41 = 5.59m

Result using Fourier:

Through Solution.res file we obtain wave length and celerity: (check file
Instructions.pdf, page 13 inside the Fourier folder, to check how to make the variables
dimensional again).

L=76.74m; C=L/T=7.67m/s

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File Surface.res shows the no dimensional values for the surface elevation, going from
trough to crest to trough:

Trough: St= 0.9303*d= 5.58m

Crest: Sc=1.1303*d= 6.7818

Summary of the results:

Items LWT Dean Stream Fourier

function theory
L 74.7429 m 75.33 m 76.74 m
C 7.4743 m/s 7.53 m/s 7.67 m/s
Sc 6.6 m 6.78 m 6.78 m
St 5.4 m 5.59 m 5.58 m

Problem 3

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a. Wave length
Distance of antinode = L/2 = 2 m L = 4 m
b. Incident wave height
( H H min )
H I max
2
(0.14 0.1)
HI 0.12m
2
c. Reflection coefficient
H ( H max H min )
KR R
H I ( H max H min )
(0.14 0.1)
KR 0.167
(0.14 0.1)
d. The depth of water is 0.2 m; calculate
Horizontal component of orbital motion at the bottom under the antinode
Hi 1 Hr 1
Uc
T sinh kd T sinh kd
L L
Shallow water C gd T
T gd

Vertical component of orbital motion there at a depth of 0.1m

H i sinh(k ( z d )) H r sinh(k ( z d ))
Wc ,max
T sinh(kd ) T sinh(kd )

The difference between mean water level and still water level

Measure from figure take an average MWL-SWL

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