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Article history: The maintenance of beautiful skin and hair is the desire of many people all over the world, thus, the
Received 30 March 2016 application of safe cosmetic products is inevitable. Natural cosmetics containing bioactive phytochemical
Received in revised form compounds offer great deal of beauty and pharmacological effect with less toxicity to users and the
22 July 2016
environment. The principle of green chemistry was adopted for the preparation of herbal antiseptic soaps
Accepted 24 July 2016
which were plant-based, biodegradable and free of articial colourings/preservatives. Underutilised
Available online 11 August 2016
tropical seeds of Daniellia oliveri, Elaeis guineensis and Vitellaria paradoxa (Shea butter) were used as
Keywords: sources of oil or fat for the saponication processes while Moringa oleifera seed oil and leave extract
Daniellia oliveri served as sources of antimicrobial agents. Ocimum basilicum also served as source of fragrance as well as
Moringa oleifera
antiseptic agent. The oils were mixed at different ratio to obtain soaps with different properties. Phy-
Elaeis guineensis
sicochemical parameters which include colour, acid value, free fatty acid values, saponication values,
Vitellaria paradoxa Saponication
Transesterication hardness, pH, colour and foaming ability of the oil and soaps were determined as applicable. The fatty
acids methyl esters of the oils were prepared via transesterication and subjected to GCMS analysis to
obtain the fatty acid composition of the oils. Daniellia oliveri oil contains 57% linolelaidic acid as the major
fatty acid, while oleic acid (46%) and lauric acid (44%) were the most prominent in Shea butter and palm
kernel oil respectively. The antimicrobial activity of the soaps determined using agar diffusion method
indicated that the soaps made from the oil of Daniellia oliveri and Shea butter inhibited the growth
Streptococcus aureus, Klebsiella granulomatis and Aspergillus niger. Shea butter soap has the highest ac-
tivity against Klebsiella granulomatis (42 mm), while soaps made from blend of palm kernel oil and Shea
butter had highest activity against Aspergillus niger (7.0). The production was highly cost effective when
compared to selected commercial soaps. Therefore, the adoption of these natural resources for the
preparation of eco-friendly herbal soaps would save the environment of the daily introduction of many
hazardous synthetic chemical products whilst also nding utility for non-conventional seed oils and at
the same time improving the economic status of the community.
& 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.scp.2016.07.006
2352-5541/& 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
O. Atolani et al. / Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy 4 (2016) 3239 33
O O and others (Fathima et al., 2011; Kapoor, 2005; Joshi and Pawal,
CH2O-C-R1 CH2OH R1-C-O-Na+ 2015).
NaOH
O + H2O O Increased attention has been given to the use of natural anti-
Saponification
CH2O-CH-R 2 CH2OH + R2-C-O-Na+ oxidants for prevention of diseases caused by oxidative damage in
O O human body and/or by lipid peroxidation in food (Teow et al.,
CH2O-C-R3 CH2OH R3-C-O-Na+ 2007). The traditional medical practice in Nigeria utilises many
Triglyceride Glycerol Sodium salts of fatty acids seed oils or medicinal plant extracts, which are cheaply sourced
(oil/fat) (Soap)
for skin and hair care products due to their abilities to rejuvenate,
moisten and enhance strong skin and hair.
O
CH2OH The seeds produced from plants usually contain lipids, fatty
R1-C-O-Me acids, amines, proteins and esters which are essential for main-
O
KOH/MeOH
CH2OH taining body skin function. In Nigeria, many valuable seeds that
R2-C-O-Me
Transesterification are oil-rich are allowed to perish each year because they belong to
O
CH2OH non-conventional oil seeds.
R3-C-O-Me
Daniellia oliveri (Rolfe) Hutch & Dalziel of the family Caesalpi-
Glycerol Fatty acid methyl esters
(FAMEs) niaceae is a well-known plant in Africa and the Amazon region
(Langenhein, 1983; Atolani and Olatunji, 2016). The plant is locally
Fig. 1. Saponication and transesterication of lipid (xed oils) from plant seeds.
known as emi ya in south west Nigeria. It is a grossly under-
utilized tropical tree with many potential economic and health
in human skins and are have been classied as potential carcino- values. The plant is used as ornamental tree in many parts of south
gen by the international agency for research on cancer (Joshi and western Nigeria and it grows widely in the forest region. The tree
Pawal, 2015; Suzuki, 2010; IARC, 1978). exudate has been applied as a component of cosmetics and its
Soap is the major product of chemical reaction between tri- potential as anti-wrinkle agent has been patented (Lamy et al.,
glyceride (xed oil from seed) and lye solution (Gunstone, 2004; 2010). Polyalthic acid, a furano-terpene has been isolated from the
Scrimgeour, 2005). The process is termed saponication (Fig. 1). exudate from the plant (Atolani and Olatunji, 2014), while the
The soap comes in solid moulded form, termed bars or in liquid chemical composition of the resin have been examined (Atolani
usually termed liquid soap kept in dispenser now widespread in and Olatunji, 2016). Other seeded plants which include Shea
many public washrooms. In order to characterise the triglyceride butter tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) of the family Sapotaceae and
composition of the oils from seeds, the lipid is usually transes- Moringa oleifera of the family Moringaceae are widely reported in
teried (Fig. 1). Previous research effort has been directed to ex- literature for various biological activities. The leaves, fruits, ow-
hibit the potential of seed oils such as shea butter, neem seed oil ers, roots, seeds, bark and pods of Moringa oleifera have been re-
and palm kernel oil for the production of soap of varied char- ported to possess analgesic, antitumour, cardiac and blood circu-
acteristics (Alander, 2004; Aliyu et al., 2012; Ameh et al., 2013; lation stimulatory activities (Makonnen et al., 1997; Sutar et al.,
Getradeghana, 2000; Maranz et al., 2004; Warra et al., 2011). 2008), antipyretic, antiepileptic, anti-inammatory and antiulcer
The production of soaps with unique properties needs a careful properties (Pal et al., 1995). Elaeis guineensis (family) is a well
selection of oil type. The criteria for the selection of oil for in- useful plant whose seed oil, known as palm kernel oil (PKO) is
dustrial or domestic application in soap-making includes the grossly applied for formulations of different cosmetic product
presence of natural characteristic aroma, clarity, natural colour, especially, soap (Amira et al., 2014; Traitler and Dieffenbacher,
low moisture content and absence of at and rancid (unpleasant) 1985). The plant is readily available in Nigeria where its serves
odour (Okoye et al., 1999; Manji et al., 2013). Values that major economic purpose for the local users. Ocimum basilicum
determine the quality of bar soaps include the hardness, cleansing (family) is an important medicinal plant with varied application
power, conditioning, lathering potential and antiseptic nature. across tribes and regions (Grayer et al., 2004; Lawrence, 1988;
These qualities are attained by reacting various combinations of Politeo et al., 2007). This present study aimed at producing herbal
oils or fat in different proportion with lye (Manji et al., 2013). soaps with antiseptic properties that will possess the capacity of
While many of the synthetic antiseptic soaps seems expensive and improving the natural beauty, attractiveness and appearance of
unaffordable especially in developing countries, herbal cosmetics African skin and hair from underutilised tropical seeds by adopting
offers an affordable and sustainable cheap means with compara- the principle of green chemistry in order to attain a pollution free
tive health and safety benets (Joshi and Pawal, 2015; Sharma environment.
et al., 2008). The global dependence on herbal products seems to
be on the increase. WHO estimated that about 80% of African
population depend directly or indirectly on herbal or natural 2. Materials and methods
products (Ekor, 2014; Joshi and Pawal, 2015; WHO, 2002). In fact,
the global market for herbal medicines was over $60 billion per 2.1. Collection of plant materials
annum with an estimate of 6.4% increase average annual growth
rate. This is apparently due to the contribution of the signicant The seed of Daniellia oliveri (Rolfe), Ocimum basilicum and Vi-
health and economic values of herbal products (Inamdar et al., tellaria paradoxa (Shea butter nut) were collected during the
2008; Sharma et al., 2008; WHO, 2002). fruiting season from the premises of the University of Ilorin, Ilorin,
Herbal cosmetics contain antioxidant, anticancer and anti- Nigeria while Moringa oleifera leaves and seeds were collected
microbial agents that could help in the management of various from the fruiting tree within Ilorin metropolis, Nigeria. The plant
skin and hair conditions. The presence of phytochemicals such as materials were identied and authenticated at the Herbarium of
vitamins, proteins, tannins, terpenoids and other bioactive in- the Department of Plant Biology, University of Ilorin, Ilorin, Nigeria
gredients rejuvenate, freshen and protect the hair and skin from where voucher specimen numbers UIH 964, UILH/001/961 and
various skin and hair conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, skin UILH/002/1008 were obtained for Daniellia oliveri, Vitellaria para-
dryness, skin cancers, sun burn, skin dryness, boil, solar keratosis, doxa and Moringa oleifera respectively.
dermatitis, impetigo, candidiasis, athlete's foot, chicken pox, car- The seeds were dried at ambient temperature, de-shelled and
buncles, staph infections, cyst, abscess, cracking, dandruff, aking pulverised. The leaves of Moringa oleifera were also collected, dried
34 O. Atolani et al. / Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy 4 (2016) 3239
at ambient temperature and pulverised while the leaves of Oci- were expressed in mMol/Kg. The peroxide value was calculated
mum basilicum were collected and used fresh when needed in using the formula
order to preserve the fragrance content. All pulverised plant ma- ( Vs Vb) molarity of titrant 103 g / Kg
Peroxide value= WEIGHT OF SAMPLE ( g )
= meq/kg
terials were kept in a cool dark place for further work.
where Vb titre for blank; Vs titre for sample; MMolarity.
where B blank titre value (mL); S sample titre value (mL); The wood ash was collected from the University's restaurant
M Molarity of KOH. was soaked in hot water for a day and then ltered using Wattman
Molecular weight of KOH was taken to be 56.1 g/mol. lter paper to obtain the lye, a brown coloured solution.
2.10. Inclusion of natural additives for bacteria and fungi respectively. The zone of inhibition was
measure using a ruler.
Additives which include 1 mL of aqueous moringa extract and
0.2 mL of honey were added after the saponication to the semi- 2.17. Cost analysis of the soaps
solid matter and stirred together. For the scent, approximately
0.5 g of the fresh leaves of Ocimum basilicum was inserted to the The production cost analysis of the soaps was carried out by
semi-solid matter to impart scent and antibacterial properties to estimating the amount of each reagent which includes the lye, oils
the soap. The leaf was removed after few minutes before allowing and additives used for each soap. The cost was compared to that of
the soap to set. commercial soaps.
2.16. Determination of soap sensitivity to microbes The D. oliveri had a lower yield (18.44%) compared to the oil
obtained from the shea butter nuts (62.9%) (Table 1). However, the
The antimicrobial sensitivity potential of the soap samples was D. oliveri oil had higher saponication value and yield of transes-
studied using selected bacteria: Streptococcus aureus, Klebsiella teried product compared to that of shea butter. The D. oliveri oil
granulomatis, and a fungus: Aspergillus niger. Agar diffusion had saponication value of 280.5 (mgKOH/g), peroxide value of
method was adopted (Ameh et al., 2013). Media were autoclaved 7.025 (meq/kg) and acid value of 1.12 (mgKOH/g). The analytical
and 20 mL of the prepared sterilised Sabouraud Dextrose Agar was values obtained for the physicochemical properties were sig-
poured into sterile petri-dishes. The microorganisms of interest nicantly in favour of the utilisation of the oil from the indigenous
were inoculated following serial dilution of 1 106 CFU/mL. After seeds of Daniellia oliveri and shea nut for soap production on
the agar solidies, 1 mL of 100 mg/mL of the sample solution commercial scale.
prepared in water was pipetted into each hole in the petri dish The physicochemical parameters of the oil/fat are shown in
bored aseptically. They were incubated at 37 C for 48 h and 96 h Table 1.
36 O. Atolani et al. / Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy 4 (2016) 3239
Table 1 saturated fatty acid was high in the palm kernel oil. Only palm
Physicochemical characteristics of the oils. kernel oil had lauric and myristic acids in the oil as they were not
within detectable limit in both the D. oliveri oil and shea butter.
Parameter D.oliveri Palm kernel oil Shea butter
Both D. oliveri oil and shea butter had above 90% unsaturation
%Yield of oil from seed 18.44 62.9 while Palm kernel oil had only 20.73% unsaturation. The high
Saponication value (mgKOH/g) 280.5 152 percentage of the saturated C-12 and C-14 fatty acids in the palm
Acid value (mgKOH/g) 1.122 22.44 kernel oil and the low concentration of the unsaturated fatty acids
% Free fatty acid 91 11.24
Peroxide value (meq/kg) 7.025
might be responsible for the observed low quality (washing ef-
Physical state at room Liquid Liquid Solid ciency, forming ability) of the soap produced from palm kernel oil.
temperature The linolelaidic acid which was the major constituent of the D.
Colour Light Brownish Yellow Pale yellow oliveri oil has also been reported to be
Yellow
%Yield of the transesteried oil 75 91 62.9
3.4. Oil mixing ratio for soap production
Table 4
Mixing ratio of the oils/fat used for the saponication.
Samples Oils/fat and additives mixing ratio Mixing ratios Soap colour Washing efciency
A1 PKOD. oliveri oil Moringa leaf extract Honey 0.89:0.05:0.05:0.01 Dark brown Good
A2 PKOD. oliveri oil 0.95:0.5 Dark brown Good
A3 D. oliveri oil 1 Pale brown Very good
B1 PKOShea butter Moringa leaf extractHoney 0.89:0.05:0.05:0.01 Dark brown Good
B2 PKOShea butter 0.95:0.5 Dark brown Good
B3 Shea butter 1 Cream Very good
where A1: PKOD. oliveri oil M. oleifera leaf extract Honey; A2: PKO D. oliveri oil; A3: D. oliveri oil; B1: PKO Shea butter M. oleifera leaf extract Honey; B2:
PKOShea butter; B3: Shea butter.
Table 5 2.5
Hardness (cm)
The physical characteristics of the Soap samples. 2
1.5
Soap pH pH Foam Solubility Hardness Texture
sample before after height (sec) (cm) 1
0
A1 9.99 8.75 3.11 420 1.55 Hard A1 A2 A3 B1 B2 B3 PKO only Dudu Lux Dettol
A2 10.13 8.52 2.53 420 0.35 Very hard Osun
A3 8.72 4.50 420 0.30 Very hard Soap samples
B1 10.11 9.48 2.53 620 2.30 Soft
B2 9.46 8.64 2.77 600 1.30 Hard Fig. 4. Hardness of the soaps. Where A1: PKO D. oliveri oil M. oleifera leaf ex-
B3 9.78 5.00 540 0.20 Very hard tract Honey; A2: PKOD. oliveri oil; A3: D. oliveri oil; B1: PKOShea butter M.
PKO 10.91 10.10 2.29 300 1.40 Hard oleifera leaf extract Honey; B2: PKOShea butter; B3: Shea butter.
only
Dudu 9.17 3.61 360 2.20 Soft concentration of the short chain saturated C-12 and C-14 fatty
Osun
acids in the PKO is suspected to have led to the production of less
Lux 9.73 3.69 780 1.30 Hard
Dettol 9.08 3.48 600 1.30 Hard quality soaps when compared to the D. oliveri oil and Shea butter
soaps. Fatty acids with only 10 or fewer carbons are not the fa-
where A1: PKOD. oliveri oil M. oleifera leaf extract Honey; A2: PKO D. oliveri vourite in soaps making because they produces soaps that pos-
oil; A3: D. oliveri oil; B1: PKO Shea butter M. oleifera leaf extractHoney; B2:
sesses obnoxious odours and also irritates the skin (Chalmers and
PKOShea butter; B3: Shea butter.
Bathe, 1978; Vivian et al., 2014). The chemical nature of the lipo-
philic part of soap plays the largest role in determining the per-
6
formance of nished soap (Viorica et al., 2011). The physico-
chemical characteristic of soap which includes moisture content,
5
total fat matter (TFM), pH, free caustic alkalinity depends largely
Foaming height (cm)
4 on several factors such as the strength and purity of alkali, the type
of oil used, degree of saponication, constituent of the oil and
3
many others (Roila et al., 2001; Vivian et al., 2014).
2
Table 6
Sensitivity of microorganisms to the prepared soaps.
900
800 Sample code ZI ofStreptococcus ZI ofKlebsiella ZIAspergillus
700 aureus (mm) granulomatis niger (mm)
Solubility
600 (mm)
500
400 A1 NI 31 NI
300 A2 NI 42 NI
200 A3 1.0 29 3.0
100 B1 NI 3.0 7.0
0 B2 5.0 NI 1.0
A1 A2 A3 B1 B2 B3 PKO Dudu Lux Dettol B3 4.0 42 NI
only Osun Ampicillin 14 40 3.0
Soap samples Tetracycline 9.0 25 11
Fig. 3. Solubilities of the soaps. Where A1: PKO D. oliveri oil M. oleifera leaf where ZI: Zone of Inhibition; NI: No inhibition; A1: PKO D. oliveri oil M. oleifera
extract Honey; A2: PKOD. oliveri oil; A3: D. oliveri oil; B1: PKO Shea butter M. leaf extractHoney; A2: PKOD. oliveri oil; A3: D. oliveri oil; B1: PKO Shea
oleifera leaf extract Honey; B2: PKO Shea butter; B3: Shea butter. butter M. oleifera leaf extract Honey; B2: PKO Shea butter; B3: Shea butter.
38 O. Atolani et al. / Sustainable Chemistry and Pharmacy 4 (2016) 3239
Table 7 seeds. The adoption of these techniques and natural resources for
Estimated production cost analysis of prepared soaps. the preparation of herbal soaps would save the environment of the
daily introduction of many hazardous chemical products which
Soap sample Cost (USD) per 1 g
results from the utilisation of commercial synthetic soaps. The
A1 0.0025 soaps prepared avoided the inclusion of auxiliary raw materials
A2 0.0023 such as sodium silicate, sodium sulphate, sodium silicate and ar-
A3 0.0020 ticial perfumes, colourants, preservatives and synthetic anti-
B1 0.0030
B2 0.0025
microbial agents. Soap made from Daniellia oliveri seed oil, which
B3 0.0023 is usually an undervalued stock in the environment had the best
PKO only 0.0018 properties in terms of hardness, forming ability, texture, colour,
Dudu Osun 0.0040 antimicrobial activity and commercial rating. The adopted method
Lux 0.0050
helps in the conversion of agro waste products in the environment
Dettol 0.0085
to commercial utility products thereby improving the economic
where USD means United State Dollars; A1: PKO D. status of the community.
oliveri oil M. oleifera leaf extract Honey; A2:
PKO D. oliveri oil; A3: D. oliveri oil; B1: PKO Shea
butter M. oleifera leaf extract Honey; B2: PKO-
Shea butter; B3: Shea butter.
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