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It is against the law to sell uninspected home-cured hams either commercially or privately.
Historical Background who want to cure and age a ham that will recapture
the delightful flavor so highly cherished by these early
Virginia ham was one of the first agricultural products clergymen, certain rules must be followed. This publi-
exported from North America. The Reverend Mr. Andrew cation provides basic steps that can be applied to home
Burnaby enthusiastically reported that Virginia pork was curing or commercial operations.
superior in flavor to any in the world (Burnaby 1775).
Another early clergyman, the Reverend Mr. John Clay-
ton, wrote the Royal Society in England that Virginia Start With a Good Ham
ham was as good as any in Westphalia (Force 1844).
A high-quality, cured ham requires that you start with
Today, after more than three centuries of progress, Vir- the proper type of high-quality fresh ham. Such fresh
ginia ham is still considered a superb product because hams come from young, healthy, fast-growing hogs
of its distinctive savory taste. For do-it-yourselfers with a desirable lean-to-fat ratio. Fresh hams can be
Length of cushion
Fore cushion
www.ext.vt.edu
Produced by Communications and Marketing, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences,
Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, 2011
Virginia Cooperative Extension programs and employment are open to all, regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, religion,
age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, or marital or family status. An equal opportunity/affirmative action employer.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University, Virginia State University,
and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Edwin J. Jones, Director, Virginia Cooperative Extension, Virginia Tech,
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Blacksburg; Jewel E. Hairston, Interim Administrator, 1890 Extension Program, Virginia State, Petersburg.
purchased from a retail store or a local meatpacker who A regular-cut ham style of cut is satisfactory for curing
is under constant inspection by the U.S. Department of and aging hams under conditions of controlled tem-
Agriculture or the Virginia State Meat Inspection Ser- perature and humidity. The shank is cut short, expos-
vice. This practice ensures that the meat product comes ing an open bone with marrow and lean tissue around
from a healthy hog. the bone. The butt is cut between the second and third
sacral vertebrae, which results in a larger lean-cut butt
Hams for curing should have a long, thick cushion, face than country-style hams.
a deep and wide butt face, minimal seam and exter-
nal fat, as seen on the collar (figure 1) and alongside
the butt face (figure 3a), and should weigh fewer than How to Identify a Quality, Fresh Ham
24 pounds. Heavier hams are normally fattier and are Figure 3a illustrates a high-quality ham has a firm,
more likely to spoil before the cure adjuncts penetrate bright-colored lean with at least a small amount of mar-
to prevent deterioration. Therefore, ones capability to bling (specks of fat in the lean) in the butt face.
control temperature and relative humidity determines
the type of ham to cure.
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Keep the Hams Properly Chilled be absorbed through these surfaces. Take care to pack
the exposed end of the shank with the curing mixture
Proper procedures prior to the purchase of a fresh ham to prevent bone sour or spoilage. Care should also be
such as chilling the carcass to below 40 F before it taken to make sure plenty of the mixture is applied to
is cut and maintaining this temperature until the time of the area around the aitchbone (pelvis).
purchase assure a sound product. Continued temper-
ature control of 36 to 40 F during curing is essential
for a good finished product. Shelves for Hams During the
Curing Process
Cure Application After the cure is applied, hams can be placed on wooden
The cure mix to use depends on personal preference. shelves or in wooden bins. Meat will readily absorb
Salt alone is acceptable. However, most people prefer flavors from the surroundings, so pine and similar fra-
the dry sugar cure. For each 100 pounds of fresh meat, grant wood should be avoided. Plastic can be used, but
use: it should be constructed so the water lost by the ham
can be drained away from the meat.
8 pounds salt
2 pounds sugar
Cure the Proper Length of Time
2 ounces saltpeter or sodium nitrite (available at
Virginia-style hams should be cured for seven days per
drugstores)
inch of cushion depth (see figure 3a), or one and a half
days per pound of ham. Keep accurate records when
placing hams in cure. Also, record the date to remove
hams from cure on the calendar, as shown.
Salt
Early December is the best time to start curing Virginia-
style hams under ambient conditions. During the cur-
ing period, keep hams at a temperature of 36 to 40 F.
Sugar
Rub the curing mixture into all lean surfaces (see fig- 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
ure 1) of the ham. Cover the skin and fat but little will 13 14 15 January
16 17 18 19
1 2 3
27 28 29 30 31
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
11 12 13 14 15 16 17
18 19 20 21 22 23 24
25 26 27 28 29 30 31
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After Curing, Soak and Wash house below 90 F. Hang hams in a smokehouse so that
they dont touch each other. Hams should be smoked
When the curing period has passed, place the hams in until they become chestnut brown in color, which may
a tub of clean, cold water for one hour. This will dis- take one to three days.
solve most of the surface curing mix and make the meat
receptive to smoke. After soaking, scrub the ham with a
stiff-bristle brush and allow it to dry. Nonsmoked Procedure
In Southwest Virginia, the process is to rub 100 pounds
of ham (after cure equalization) with the following
thoroughly mixed ingredients:
1 quart molasses
1 ounce saltpeter
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Larder beetle: This insect is dark brown and has a ucts from the storeroom
yellowish band across its back. The adult is about 1/3- before spraying all sur-
inch long. Its larvae feed on or immediately beneath the faces on which houseflies
cured meat surface and other pests are likely
but do not rot the to crawl. Allow the spray
meat. The larvae to dry before any meat is
are fuzzy, brown- returned to the storeroom.
ish, and about Figure 5a.
1/3-inch long at If any product becomes
maturity. infested after precau-
tions have been taken,
Red-legged ham beetle: The larvae are purplish and it should be removed
about 1/3-inch long. They bore through meat and cause from the storeroom and
it to dry rot. Adults the infested area should
are about 1/4-inch be trimmed. The trim
long and a brilliant should be deep enough
greenish-blue color to remove larvae that Figure 5b.
with red legs and have penetrated along the
red at the bases of bone and through the fat.
their antennae. They The uninfested portion is
feed on the meats safe to eat, but should be
surface. prepared and consumed
promptly. The exposed
Mites: Mites are whit- lean of the trimmed areas Figure 5c.
ish and about 1/32- should be protected by
inch long at maturity. greasing it with salad oil
Parts of meat infested or melted fat to delay
with mites appear molding or drying.
powdery.
Protect the hams by plac-
Insect illustrations were
modified from Home and ing a barrier between Figure 5d.
Garden Bulletin No. 109, U.S. Department of the meat and the insects.
Agriculture, Washington, D.C. Heavy brown grocery
Recommended prevention includes starting the cur- bags with no rips or tears
ing and aging during cold weather when these insects in them are ideal to use for
are inactive. Proper cleaning of the aging and storage this purpose. Hams may
areas is essential, because the cheese skipper feeds also be wrapped in plain
and breeds on grease and tiny scraps of meat lodged butcher paper (be sure not
in cracks. Cracks should be sealed with putty or plas- to use waxed butcher or
tic wood after cleaning. Screens should be installed to freezer paper). Figure 5e.
prevent insects from entering, especially flies, ants, and
As shown in figures
other insects that carry mites. Double-entry doors are
5a-f, wrap the ham in the
recommended to reduce infestation of insects.
paper. Then, place the
After cleaning and sealing cracks, a surface spray wrapped ham in a bag,
should be applied to the floor so that the thin layer of fold and tie as shown.
insecticide will kill crawling insects. Spray aging rooms The hams wrapped by
once every three months with a labeled product spray to this method can be hung
reduce infestation. in a dry, cool, protected
room to age. This room
Follow mixing and application directions on the pes- should be clean, tight, and
ticide label. If applied as a spray, remove all meat prod- well-ventilated.
Figure 5f.
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Preparing the Ham
Virginia ham remains one of the favorite foods of Vir-
ginians and their guests. It can be prepared in a variety
of ways and served with endless combinations of foods
that complement ham.
Spice glaze: Use 1 cup brown sugar and 1 cup juice Step 3:
from spiced peaches or crab apples. Bake as directed Start slicing very thin slices at a 45-degree angle, bringing
above. Garnish with the whole pickled fruit. the knife to the bone. Eventually, the bone structure will
make it necessary for you to cut smaller slices at different
angles to the bone.
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Cooking Ham Slices Line to cut along
Baking: Place thick slice in a covered casserole and
bake in 325 F oven. Brown sugar and cloves, fruit
juice, or mustard-seasoned milk may be placed on
the ham during baking. Uncover the last 15 to 20
minutes for browning.
Frying: Trim the skin off the ham slices. Cut the outer
edge of fat in several places to prevent it from curl-
ing during cooking. Place a small amount of fat in
a moderately hot skillet. When it has melted, add
ham slices. Cook ham slowly, turning often. Allow
about 10 minutes total cooking time for thin slices.
Remove ham from pan and add a small amount of
water to raise the drippings for red eye gravy. To
decrease the salty taste, fry ham with a small amount
of water in the skillet.
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thickens. Serve over waffles, hot biscuits, corn sticks,
Recipes for Cooked Ham or toast.
Slice Virginia ham for tasty sandwiches. Use your
choice of breads and extras, but be sure the ham flavor Disclaimer: Commercial products are named in this
comes through. publication for informational purposes only. Virginia
Cooperative Extension does not endorse these products
Serve ham biscuits for a special treat. Use thinly sliced and does not intend discrimination against other prod-
ham in a crusty biscuit large biscuits for family ucts that may also be suitable.
meals, dainty ones for a tea table.
1 cup breadcrumbs (reserve cup) Force, Peter, comp. 1844. Letter From John Clayton
Rector of Crofton at Wakefield in Yorkshire to the
1 tablespoon grated or finely chopped onion Royal Society, May 12, 1688. In Tracts and Other
Papers Relating Principally to the Origin, Settlement,
1 cup milk and Progress of the Colonies in North America From
the Discovery of the Country to the Year 1776. Vol. III:
Beat eggs slightly. Add other ingredients, reserving
Virginia. Washington, D.C.: W. Q. Force.
cup of breadcrumbs. Pack into a baking pan and sprin-
kle with remaining bread crumbs. Bake in a 350 F
oven for 45 minutes.
4 tablespoons flour
2 cups milk
Place fat in heavy frying pan, add onion, and cook until
onion is tender but not brown. Add ham, stir, and heat.
Add flour, stir, and cook about 1 minute. Add milk,
cup at a time, stirring constantly. Cook until mixture