El

El Camino
Camino
de
de Santiago
Santiago

Grupo Amigos 2002

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 (Relato recogido de una de las muchas Web que se pueden encontrar en la red)

Este es el relato de nuestro viaje por tierras gallegas. Un viaje totalmente distinto a los dems en
el que a lo largo de 5 dias hicimos un recorrido a pie de 113 km disfrutando de las maravillosas
vistas y del compaerismo de los viajeros.

Para nosotros fue una experiencia realmente enriquecedora y que pensamos repetir.

Todo empezo medio en broma hablando con otra gente de lo que era el Camino de Santiago.
Todo el que lo haba hecho nos lo recomendaba aunque a nosotros nos asustaba una poco
porque aunque estamos acostumbrados a caminar y hacer excursiones no tenamos ni idea de
como funcionaba el sistema de albergues y no sabamos si aguantaramos 5 das caminando y
con una gran mochila en la espalda.

El viaje lo hicimos durante el periodo de Semana Santa del pasado ao 2000. Hasta el ltimo da
no decidimos que bamos a ir ya que el tiempo estaba muy mal, no paraba de llover, haca fro e
incluso hablaban de nieve, pero despues de hacer algunas llamadas a ayuntamientos de la zona
preparamos la mochila con nuestras botas de montaa, el saco de dormir, un par de camisetas y
pantalones, el forro polar y sobretodo un chubasquero y nos lanzamos a la aventura.

Si quereis conseguir la Compostela no olvideis llevar la Credencial de Peregrino, que os

facilitaran en vuestra parroquia o en el obispado de vuestra ciudad. En ella os sellaran por los
lugares que paseis, os facilitaran alojamiento en los albergues y cuando llegueis a Santiago de
Compostela podreis ir a la Oficina del Peregrino y demostrar que habeis hecho ms de 100km
andando para que os den la Compostela.

Es muy importante el calzado, que sea cmodo y que ya estemos un poco acostumbrados a l. Yo
tuve mucha suerte pues aunque mis pies son muy delicados no me salieron ampollas, pero vi
gente que no poda ni tenerse en pie.

El da 15 salimos de Girona en coche y despus de recorrer 1150 km llegamos a Sarria, nuestro

punto de partida. Mucha gente va en tren hasta all, pero a nosotros nos era ms cmodo ir en
nuestro propio coche. Adems una vez all lo puedes dejar en el pueblo aparcado, cosa que hacen
muchos peregrinos. Nosotros lo dejamos justo delante de la Policia
Municipal.

Ya en el camino hasta all se vean peregrinos andando al lado de la

carretera ya que pasamos por algunos de los pueblos por los que pasa
el Camino de Santiago, como Samos, un pueblo con un monasterio
precioso y O'Cebreiro uno de los puertos ms difciles del Camino.

Sarria es el lugar en el que empieza mucha gente puesto que desde all
puedes recorrer la distancia mnima para conseguir la Compostela.

El albergue est totalmente renovado y en muy buenas condiciones,

tiene varias habitaciones y un pequeno comedor-cocina. Est en el
centro del pueblo.

Salida primer da del albergue de Sarria

El da 16 salimos de Sarria a las 9 de la maana y pasamos por Barbadelo (4,3km), Rente
(0,9km), Brea (6,3km), Ferreiros (1,7), Rozas (1,8km), Vilach(5,2km) y finalmente Portomarin
(1,8km), en total unos 22 km.

Encontramos lluvia a ratos y el camino estaba lleno de barro, incluso haba trozos en los que el
Camino se converta en riachuelo y tenas que pasar
por en medio.

En Ferreiros paramos en un pequeo bar a tomar

algo, donde haba un hombre muy agradable que nos
explic que el ao anterior al ser Ao Xacobeo haba
mucha ms gente y que los albergues estaban llenos.

Llegamos a Portomarn a las 15,20h. aproximada-

mente y despus de dejar nuestras mochilas en el
albergue nos fuimos a comer al mesn Rodriguez, en
el que por un buen precio puedes comer un buen
men.

El pueblo de Portomarn es bastante pequeo y a

parte de su iglesia no tiene muchas ms cosas por
ver.

El recorrido de este primer da fue para m quizs el

ms bonito, con unos paisajes preciosos y en el que
no nos cruzamos con ningn coche hasta llegar a
Portomarn. Parecas haberte transportado a las
aldeas de 50 aos atrs.

Xevi en medio de un "camino-rio"

El albergue de Portomarn es el peor de todos los que visitamos durante el camino, haca
bastante fro y no era muy acogedor, aunque se agradeca tener un lugar para ducharte (aunque
fuese con agua fra) y poder dormir.

El da 17 salimos de Portomarn a las 8,40h despus de un buen desayuno y empezamos la que

iba a ser una etapa bastante dura.

Pasamos por Gonzar (7,6km), Castromaior (1,2km), Hospital de la Cruz (2,4km), Ventas de
Naron (1,3km), Ligonde (3,1km),
Eirexe (1,3km), Avenostre (5,2km) y
finalmente Palas de Rei (2,2km).

Prcticamente todo el camino era de

subida y bastante trozo asfaltado,
por lo que le quitaba su encanto.

En Eirexe paramos a descansar un

poco, aunque recomiendo parar
antes de llegar al alto de Ligonde,
puesto que el camino se hace muy
largo en ese tramo.

Albergue de Portomarin
Este da me cost bastante llegar, me dolan los pies y la mochila cada vez se haca ms pesada.

A medida que pasaban las horas ibas conociendo a otra gente que tambin hacan el Camino, y
muchos de los que habas encontrado en Sarria se iban repitiendo en cada etapa.

Xevi y Maite, en Medio de un camino lleno de Barro.

El hecho de ver a otros como t, igual de cansados y con los pies tan o ms destrozados te daba
nimo para seguir y pensabas que tampoco estabas tan mal.

En Palas de Rei os recomiendo el mesn Bodegon99 que est justo al lado del albergue. Sirven
unas tapas buensimas y un vino que te da fuerza para continuar al da siguiente, todo ello por
un precio excelente. All estuvimos cenando y tomando uns copitas de orujo con Carlos, lvaro y
Mateo, tres compaeros que conocimos de Valencia y Nueva York,hasta las 11 de la noche, hora
en la que cerraban el albergue.

Tamben nos trataron muy bien en un restaurante situado delante del albergue y en el que nos
sirvieron un caldo calentito que nos sirvi para entrar en calor despus de una etapa bastante
pasada por agua.

El albergue es bastante grande, con muchas habitaciones, una hostalera muy atenta y agradable
y bastante acogedor.

El da 18 de abril nos levantamos a las 7,15 y despus de desayunar empezamos nuestra nueva
etapa. Caa una gran tormenta y a la salida del albergue cuesta un poco encontrar el Camino
marcado y hay que estar muy atento al llegar a la carretera.

Fuimos a Casanova (5,7km), Leboreiro (3,4km), Furelos (4km), Melide (1,9km), Boente (5,6km),
Castaeda (2,2km) y Ribadiso da Baixo (3,1km). En total 26 km.

A medio camino de Palas de Rei y Melide nos cay un gran pedregada, y poco antes de llegar a
Melide otra ms fuerte que nos dej totalmente empapados. Esto hizo este tramo muy
desagradable. Tuvimos que parar en el albergue de Melide, en el que nos acogieron muy bien,
para secarnos un poco y a descansar.
Si teneis oportunidad no dejeis de parar en Melide a tomar pulpo a la gallega, ya que este pueblo
es famoso por su delicioso pulpo.

Entre Arza y Salceda, pasando por debajo del Horreo.

Despus de descansar un poco par de llover y decidimos continuar nuestro camino hasta
Boente, donde paramos a tomar un bocadillo de jamon que estaba buensimo, y donde
compramos algunas provisiones para la cena, ya que el albergue de Ribadiso es una casa al lado
del ro sin ninguna tienda ni bar a menos de 2km.

Finalmente llegamos al albergue, una casa preciosa de piedra antigua y totalmente renovada, al
lado del rio, con sus prados y sus cabritas. Para m fue el albergue ms bonito de todo el camino.

En esta etapa pasamos por lugares muy bonitos, con unos bosques de eucaliptos y unas sendas
encantadoras.

El da 19 de abril salimos temprano de Ribadiseo y paramos a desayunar en Arza (2,7km),

pueblo en el que hay un albergue
recien renovado y que aunque en
algunas guas no lo aconsejen,
ahora s que merece la pena ir.

Continuamos con muchas subidas

y bajadas y lloviendio constante-
mente, pero no pudimos parar
hasta llegar a Salceda, al cabo de
unos 11 km, donde comimos unos
bocadillos de jamn y chorizo en
abundanca y que estaban
buensimos.

Albergue de Ribadiso da Baixo.

Por el camino encontramos a otros compaeros que ya conocamos, Olga y Mnica de Madrid,
Elena, Roberto y Jose, de Barcelona y a Santiago, un chico argentino que tena que hacer el
camino en 4 das.

Llegamos al Albergue de Arcas a las 3 de la tarde despus de recorrer unos 21 km, y all
descansamos un rato despus de ducharnos.

Fuimos a visitar el pueblo y la iglesia con Jose y Olga y luego compramos cosas para la cena
entre todos los que estbamos compartiendo el camino, ya que aquella iba a ser nuestra ltima
cena juntos, puesto que al da siguiente ya llegabamos a Santiago de Compostela, nuestro
destino.

En el albergue compartimos nuestra comida con otros compaeros y lo celebramos con sidra y
Tarta de Santiago.

Decidimos que al da siguiente nos levantaramos todos a las 5 para as llegar juntos a Santiago
antes de la Misa del Peregrino para que digan tu nombre en ella.

El da 20 hicimos lo que tenamos previsto y a las 5 estbamos todos en pie dispuestos a

emprender el camino , y despes de desayunar todos juntos as lo hicimos.

Intentamos seguir el camino marcado, pero con la tormenta que estaba cayendo y la oscuridad
de la noche tuvimos que volver atrs y seguir por la carretera, aunque con mucha prudencia.

As lo hicimos hasta llegar al aeropuerto , lugar en el que ya haba amanecido y volvimos a

tomar el camino marcado. Hay una gran subida hasta llegar all que se hace bastante larga.

Al llegar a Labacolla es donde empieza la subida al Monte do Gozo, llamado as porque es un

gozo llegar all, por lo que cuesta y porque desde all ya se divisa la ciudad de Santiago de
Compostela.

La subida fue muy dura ya que no par de llover en todo el recorrido. Una vez en Monte do
Gozo paramos unos minutos a descansar aunque todos estbamos ya impacientes por llegar a
Santiago de Compostela, as que continuamos nuestro camino entrando ya en la ciudad.

Despus de recorrer sus calles y ansiosos por fin nos encontramos all delante la Catedral, lo
habamos conseguido, era todo un orgullo llegar a la ciudad como peregrino, la ves de una
manera distinta a otras veces que la hayas visitado como turista.

Fue una lstima que como era Jueves Santo no haba misa del Peregrino, as que nuestro
madrugn fue en vano, aunque as aprovechamos ms el da.

Despus de recoger la Compostela hicimos lo que marca la tradicin, subir las 33 escaleras de la
fachada principal y luego el cerimonial de arrodillarse y introducir la mano en la base del
parteluz.

Despus de todo sto fuimos a buscar alojamiento al albergue de Santiago, situado en el

Seminario Menor y l nico que no pertenece a la Xunta, y en el que te hacen pagar una tarifa
obligatoriamente, incluso si slo quieres entrar a ducharte, y el trato no tiene nada que ver con el
que nos ofrecieron durante todo el camino los hostaleros y hostaleras, que fue excelente.

Para mi fue el nico que me decepcion bastante, en una sola habitacin que ocupa toda la
planta con catres y muy anticuado. Aquello me record a los antiguos hospicios, as que si
podis, os recomiendo buscar un hostal que los hay bastante barato.
Os recomiendo ir a comer a Casa Manolo, un restaurante muy pequeito y en el que hay que
hacer bastante cola, pero que te atiborran de comer por un precio baratsimo.

Para volver a Sarria, hay unos autobuses directos que salen cada tarde desde la estacin de
autobuses.

Ya de vuelta y con ropa limpia y calzdo cmodo hicimos una parada para dar un paseo por
Zaragoza, una ciudad que no me cansar nunca de visitar.

Dedicamos una Galeria de Fotos, a todos los compaeros peregrinos que encontramos durante
el viaje, y con los cuales pasamos agradables momentos.

Maite, Xevi, lvaro, Mateo y Carlos, Celebrando la

llegada a Palas de Rei, con unas tapas en el Bodegon99
junto al albergue.

F
o
Bodegon99 a Tope con el Orujo

Llegada al Monte do
Gozo empapados por
la lluvia.

Cena Despedida en Arcas.

Slo alta un da para la llegada a Santiago

Llegada a Santiago. Despus de 113 Km.

Comida en Casa Manolo. Adis Peregrinos