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Patternmaking Basics: Suzy Furrer


The Bodice Sloper What You'll Need

Supplies & Resources


Page Title

SUPPLIES
Awl
Drafting curve
Muslin
Pattern paper and tag or poster board
Regular and red pencils and eraser
Scissors paper and fabric
Tape measure
Tracing or carbon paper and tracing wheel
Transparent ruler (2"x18" with grid)
Transparent tape
Pins and pattern weights
Optional tools: Dressform; identifying stamps;
notcher; pattern hooks; pattern punch

RESOURCES
Instructor's website: www.apparel-arts.com
Building Patterns: The Architecture of Women's
Clothing by Suzy Furrer (Apparel Arts, 2008)

PATTERN-DRAFTING TIPS

Every pattern piece should be marked with: Every pattern piece should include:
Season Grain line
Style number or name Notches to denote seam and hem allowances,
Piece within the pattern, e.g., front panel, sleeve, dart legs and matching points
back facing Awl punches to denote the base or top of a dart,
Size pocket placement, corners, and other interior
Cut quantity in self, contrast, lining, interfacing, markings. Dart points should be punched "
etc., e.g., 2 self; 2 lining. inside the dart bulk. Circle the punch with red.

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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Sample Measurements & Calculation Worksheet


RECORD OF CALCULATION WORKSHEET
MEASUREMENTS
14" 6= 23/8"
Name Size 8 Dress Form Neck Front 23/8" + " = 25/8"
Back 23/8" + 3/8" = 2"
Date Shoulder 4"
Front Length 15"
Neck 14"
Back Length 17"
Shoulder 4 Figure Length 8"
Figure Breadth 8" 2= 4"
Front Length 15
Cross Front 12" 2= 6"
Back Length 17 Cross Back 13" 2= 65/8"
36 4= 9"
Figure Length 8
Bust Front 9" + " = 9"
Figure Breadth 8 Back 9" " = 8"
29" + 4" or 5" = 34"
Cross Front 12 Underbust /
2"
Cup Size Bust 36" Underbust 34" =
Cross Back 13 Cup Size B
26" 4= 6"
Bust 36
Waist Front 6" + " = 6"
Underbust/Cup Size 29/B Back 6" " = 6
34" 4= 8"
High Hip
Waist 26
at a depth of Front 8" + " = 8"
4"
34 Back 8" " = 8"
High Hip
37" 4= 9"
at a depth of Low Hip
4
at a depth of Front 9" + " = 9"
8"
37 Back 9" " = 9"
Low Hip
Side (as measured) 9"
at a depth of 8 Armhole 16" 2= 83/8"
Add " to the back
Side 9 armhole and subtract Front 83/8" " = 81/8"
" from the front
armhole if the front
Armhole 16 length is longer than Back 83/8" + " = 85/8"
the back length.

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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Measurements & Calculation Worksheet


RECORD OF CALCULATION WORKSHEET
MEASUREMENTS
6=
Name Neck Front + " =
Back + 3/8" =
Date Shoulder
Front Length
Neck
Back Length
Shoulder Figure Length
Figure Breadth 2=
Front Length
Cross Front 2=
Back Length Cross Back 2=
4=
Figure Length
Bust Front + " =
Figure Breadth Back " =
+ 4" or 5" =
Cross Front Underbust /
Cup Size Bust Underbust =
Cup Size
Cross Back
4=
Bust Waist Front + " =
Back " =
Underbust/Cup Size
High Hip 4=
Waist at a depth of Front + " =
Back " =
High Hip 4=
Low Hip
at a depth of at a depth of Front + " =
Back " =
Low Hip Side (as measured)
at a depth of Armhole 2=
Add " to the back
Side armhole and subtract Front + " =
" from the front
armhole if the front
Armhole length is longer than Back " =
the back length.

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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Reference Charts

SHOULDER DART WIDTH SIDE DART WIDTH

Cup Size Dart Width Cup Size Dart Width

A /"
38
A

B B 1

C /"
58
C 1

D or larger D or larger 1

WAIST DART WIDTH ARMHOLE DART WIDTH

Use difference between waist and low hip mea- Cup Size Dart Width
surements, not calculations. If in
between, round up to larger dart width A /"
38

Difference between waist B


Dart Width
and low hip measurements
C /"
58

1416 1
D or larger
1013 1

CENTER FRONT DART WIDTH


8-9
Cup Size Dart Width
27 /"
38
A /"
38

01 No dart B

C /"
58

D or larger

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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Sample Moulage

C C
G H F E g
F D i A
E j B
l D h
m
A
B d
k
g w J
f
j
ik f
b a
h a
d Z
e
M L w Y
c X
I K J
V e

c b

P N Q X M L K H G
R T U Q P R

Y T S
S
O I

O Z V N U

CONTINUED

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Patternmaking Basics: The Bodice Sloper with Suzy Furrer What You'll Learn

Sample Sloper

Front Back

Cross Front Cross Back

Bust
Bust

Name:

Name:

Center Back
Date:
Center Front

Date:
Side

Side

Waist Waist

High Hip High Hip

Low Hip Low Hip

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