Six Basic Climbing Knots

As taken from: http://www.jpmountainguide.com/climbing-knots.html

There are many knots, too many. But there is a minimum of 6 knots that will cover most
situations. If you master these six knots and their variations you will have the tools that will
help you to securely enjoy climbing, ski mountaineering and mountaineering.

The figure 8 is used to tie yourself at the end of the rope and the munter hitch is a great way
to belay. The fisherman knot allows you the tie two ropes together. The munter hitch and the
prusik will allow you to perform an improvised rescue. With the clovehitch you can clip the
rope into a carabiner at the anchor and the blocking knot will keep any rescue system
releasable.

Double fisherman
The double fisherman knot is used to tie the end of two ropes together ( ie: to rappel) or to
join a single cordelette into a loop ( ie: prusik loop)

Coil the end of the rope twice around the second rope, crossing over the first coil to make
the second one, then pass the end thru the coil. Repeat these steps with the second rope on
the opposite direction.

Single Fisherman
Double Fisherman
Clove hitch
The clove hitch is used to clip into a carabiner attach to an anchor without actually tying a
knot, easy to adjust the length without unclipping. Easy to undo.

In the middle of the rope create two loops in opposite side, overlap them and insert them in
a carabiner. Or at the belay pass the rope thru the carabiner, take the loose end from under
the rope tie to your harness, create an opposite loop and clip it into the carabiner.
Munter hitch

The best friction knot, better friction then any belay device but has tendency to create kinks
in the rope. Excellent method for belaying and lowering. The munter is reversible.

Twist a coil on the rope, then fold the lower strand over the upper strand, clip it into a
carabiner. Can easily be transform into a clove hitch.

In rescue situation the Munter hitch combine with the blocking knot will keep the system
releasable.
Prusiks

Always carry along with you a prusik loop. It will allow you to climb along a rope, to set up a
z pulley system, to belay yourself while rappelling. There is only one prusik but there are
many variations.

The original prusik is multi directional (must be 2 size smaller of the rope that its wrap
around), many variation of the prusik knot are not multi directional.

Wrape the prusik around the rope. 2 to 3 time or more depending the condition, icy, wet,
new or old rope.

Prusik Klemheist

Bachman

Prusik with Sling on Carabiner

Prusik with Sling
Bloking knots
Also call Mule knot. A very important knot. You can not perform a Z pulley sytem, a lower
with a knot pass, a load transfer and many other rescue system without this knot. It is a
must know. It will allow you to keep all your options open.

Blocking knot Always finish the blocking knot

with a Munter knot with an overhand safety knot

Figure-Eight
Figure-Eight on a bight: you can tie a figure eight in the middle of the rope to make a loop for
clipping into an anchors.
Water Knot
Even if most slings theses days are sawn you must know how to do a water knot.