Professional Documents
Culture Documents
The idea that women are obsessed with their appearances has
1
Rousseau argued in 1762 that women and girls were naturally
and they are told that their success in life depends upon
2
Surprisingly, the issues that concerned Rousseau and
(even some feminists) would agree with him that the desire
otherwise.
3
stereotype described above. Bra-burning was always a myth,1
Norms of Appearance
1
Deborah Rhode, Media Images/Feminist Issues, in M
Fineman and M McCluskey, Feminism, Media, and the Law.
(Oxford 1997.)
4
succeeding. Nonetheless, I will attempt to give a few
on women.
Bodies
have the slim hips, your breasts will not be large. Living
5
a very important role in the lives of most women today. It
2
This statistic is from The Beauty Myth. The study cited is
from 1985. I am seeking more recent statistics, but dont
have them yet.
3
Caramel Quin, Girly Phones, iVillage.co.uk,
http://www.ivillage.co.uk/computers/experts/gadget/articles
/0,9439,181463_183871,00.html, consulted on 14 May 2002.
4
Bordo, Unbearable Weight.
5
Estimates vary. The 19% figure is from Wolf, 182.
6
just happened to be so much more common in women than men,
Wrinkles
6
American Society for Plastic Surgery,
http://surgery.org/news_releases/feb2002statswomen.html.
7
Kiplingers Personal finance MagazinePlastic Surgery:
Plain Truths, April 1999.
(http://wwa.Kiplinger.com/magazine/archives/1999/April/mmap
r994.htm.
7
mastering the art of walking in stiletto heels, than
fending off wrinkles. But just because we cant see
them, doesnt mean theyre not lurking in our
lifestyles, waiting to make an appearance.
Cosmopolitan October 2001, 291.
(Wolf 83)
8
facial contours: keeping upper and lower teeth
slightly apart, make a large, round O with your mouth.
Hold position for a count of 5. Then force mouth back
into a wide grin (teeth still parted) and say aagh.
Hold for count of 5. Repeat five times.
Dahl 56.
Wrinkle-prevention is still a popular concern: a friend of
following words.
9
causes botulism)have become extremely popular. These
8
American Society for Plastic Surgery,
http://surgery.org/news_releases/feb2502btx.html
10
Faces
not white, as many of the ideals are ones that are far more
11
cases, women are given detailed instructions on how they
sort that are not given to men. Wolf (41) cites a manager
told by her superior that he was happy with her work, but
that she needed some improvement from the neck up. Wolf
9
Its worth noting that men are often expected to adhere to
dress codes in the workplace (suits, uniforms, casual
Fridays, etc). The difference is that there are not many
expectations beyond these rather basic dress codes. For
women, the expectations are often both more specific and
more demanding.
12
be able to pass as one of their Aryan sisters who
form the dominant ethnic group [] Adolescent Asian
girls [] bring in pictures of Elizabeth Taylor and of
Japanese movie actresses (whose faces have already
been reconstructed) demand the Westernizing of their
own eyes and the creation of higher noses in hopes of
a better job and marital prospects.
Eugenia Kaw notes that the Asian women who have eyelid
13
of Asian features. She further notes that Asian-Americans
1990 textbook.
10
E Kaw, Opening faces: The politics of Cosmetic Surgery
and Asian American Women. In M Crawford and R Unger, In
Our Words: Readings on the Psychology of Women and Gender.
NY: McGrawHill 1997, 55-73.
14
of plastic surgery overall in America. In 2001, over
Clothing
11
http://surgery.org/news_releases/feb2002statswomen.html
12
Sayoc 1974 (162-166), cited in Kaw.
15
walking fast in long tight skirts is very difficult. And
16
men) earmark a portion of their salaries for clothing and
much heavier for women than for men. This means that women
clothing than men do, in order to keep their jobs, and will
Movement
Women are expected to keep close track of the way that they
subordination.
17
language of subordination when it is enacted by men in
male status hierarchies. In groups of men, those with
higher status typically assume looser and more relaxed
posture: the boss lounges comfortably behind a desk
while the applicant sits tense and rigid on the edge
of his seat [] What is announced in the comportment
of superiors is confidence and ease [. . . ] women
tend to set to and stand with legs, feet, and knees
close or touching. . . One thing is clear: woman's
body language speaks eloquently, though silently, of
her subordinate status in a hierarchy of gender.
(Bartky 74)
Discrimination
18
discrimination on the basis of sex has not been. To see how
13
Wolf seems to suggest that appearance-based
discrimination is more legally acceptable than sex-based
discrimination, but this doesnt really seem right. By her
own admission, decisions based on either appearance or sex
are only legitimate if the trait in question can be shown
to be relevant to the job. It may, however, be easier to
argue that appearance is relevant to a job than that sex
is.
19
unattractive, and not deferential enough to men. She sued
be problematic enough.
14
Hopkins sued for sex discrimination and won. The court
found that her employer had judged her behaviour by
reference to a sex stereotype. She might not have won,
presumably, if the employer had not been so explicit in the
claims that she was not feminine enough. (See Hopkins v.
Price-Waterhouse: 741 F. 2d 1163; S. Ct. 1775; Price
Waterhouse v. Hopkins, 490 U.S. 288.) The sex stereotype
understanding of sex discrimination is discussed in more
detail in the chapter on sexual harassment (pages ??).
20
jobs for not looking feminine enough, while in others they
different one.
Inadequacy
assumes that absolutely every woman who reads her book (it
21
A very important aspect of the norms of feminine appearance
naturally are, are simply not good enough. Women are told
that they should "at least make an effort"; many feel that
they should not leave the house without some makeup (or, as
some say, putting their face on); and women who no longer
on great significance.
Self-Policing Subjects
15
Bartky, Foucault, Femininity, and the Modernization of
Patriarchal Power, in Bartky, Femininity and Domination.
22
discussion of the Panopticon,16 a model prison proposed by
sides by cells with windows that were lit from behind. The
fear that they might be. They would, then, become self-
Routledge 1990.
16
Foucault, Discipline and Punish. NY: Vintage Books 1979.
23
themselves for any deviation from acceptable standards of
24
helpfully designed and marketed a boudoir cap to conceal
relevant today.
17
Dahl, 112, 171.
25
The source of the pressure
Media, Advertisers
26
Stop the clock: invest in the future of your skin
18
J Hanigsberg, Glamour Law: Feminism through the Looking
Glass of Popular Womens Magazines, in M Fineman and M
McCluskey, Feminism, Media, and the Law (Oxford 1997), 73.
27
awareness of feminist issues, how does it also happen that
about women who think their bottoms are too large is faced
model with a small nose, half hidden by her hair. The body-
28
Magazines cannot survive without advertising. And
19
See, for example, J Kilbourne, Cant Buy My Love,
Touchstone 2000.
29
men look at ads for shaving products without articles on
Objections
30
attribute to advertisers is simply too much. Advertising
extremes that, for example, they cause their own deaths due
want these things, and that they are not simply being
dont feel that they only do these things because they are
31
In addition, she does not try to pick out some particular
for most. No one group can be isolated out for blame. The
32
Bartky, then, accepts that women genuinely enjoy clothes
and makeup and styling their hair. But, she says, the
with one which does not depend on the meeting of false and
women are obsessed both with their appearance and with the
33
Bordo describes the combination of enjoyment and inadequacy
nicely:
ideals, they think that the time and effort they devote to
The pleasure women get from time, effort and money spent on
What does Bartky propose instead? She calls for what she
34
terms a non-repressive narcissism (42). Bartky strongly
about how they would like to adorn and modify them. What
unrealistic ideal.
Mens Role
Rousseau took it for granted that all the effort women (and
35
consciousness of most women: they stand perpetually
before his gaze and under his judgmentwomen know for
whom this game is played: they know that a pretty
young woman is likelier to become a flight attendant
than a plain one and that a well-preserved older woman
has a better chance of hanging onto her husband than
one who has let herself go. (72)
This seems to me by far the weakest portion of Bartky's
20
Im not suggesting that men play no role. Rahter, Im
questioning the privileged place that Bartky assigns them.
36
directed at pleasing men even if women are wrong about what
Responses
Not all feminists think that criticizing current norms of
37
the curling wigs of judges, the bright livery of the
Horse Guards, the purple dresses of bishops, the stiff
shirts of empire builders at dinnertheir peculiar
costumes are seen as badges of power. Unless our
costume actually stops us doing somethingas the
crinolines of 19th century fashion slowed women down
we should not attribute some mysterious, individual
life to it. Narcissism by the ruling group will
always be seen as powerful, narcissism by subordinates
as demeaning. (Walter 85)
Adornment and decoration themselves, Walter argues, are not
slow women down. But what Bartky and Wolf have argued is
that there are many current fashions and norms which slow
38
should be concerned about them.
39
their bodies is invariably tortured and full of self
loathing. But this is not the only, or even the main
truth about that relation. If you watch women in
shops, holding dresses up to their bodies and dreaming
in the mirrors; if you watch them reading fashion
magazines, flicking idly through the pages until, with
an indrawn breath, they laugh out, "look at that! Look
at that blue, that's the blue I want. . ." . . . you
know that there is a real, fresh, happy sensuality
about women's feeling for self-decoration that can
never be expunged. (Walter 86-87)
Walter and Richards might argue that Bartkys term,
and the needs they are satisfying as real ones, coming from
way:
40
the other woman, so to speak, which is like fun.
Bordo 251.
seriously her own report of why she does what she does.21 If
she says that she is just having fun, how can anyone else
Response
not deny this, and should not criticize women who get such
enjoyment. But does that mean that writers like Bartky and
21
It is worth looking again at Kaws description of Asian
womens eyelid surgeries with this thought in mind. Kaw is
confident of her claim that the womens actions are based
on their internalization of destructive stereotypes, but
the women themselves would not agree.
22
Bordo, Material Girl, in Unbearable Weight.
41
when we consider the homogeneity of the free, playful
comb.24
When they suggest choosing the sort of body you want, Bordo
argues, they dont really mean it. Bordo does not deny the
23
Bordo 255
24
Bordo 254.
42
reasons for worry.
change them. This would not mean that they did not take
her body.
43
Another way to see the continued relevance of critiques
must cease.
would stop doing this if only they were freed from the
44
standards.25 But, Kathy Davis has argued, women's decisions
exactly what they are doing. Her interviews with such women
show that often they view the norms that they are trying to
and then to enjoy the benefits of one can gain from doing
25
It is important to note that writers like Wolf and Bartky
do not explicitly endorse such views of women. Nonetheless,
their focus on the self-destructive aspects of womens
appearance-related behaviour might leave one with the
impression that they take it to be irrational.
45
then, can be a way for women to gain power rather than a
self-destructive decisions.
Pressures on Men
46
norms of appearances is not just a problem for women. Men
way women move with the way men move. If womens movements
47
have been socially conditioned, surely mens have too.) So,
dress and move from are ones that convey power, while the
might note that women are far more likely than men to be
26
For an example of this sort of argument, see Walter.
48
But it is important also to acknowledge that the
such norms are now beginning to pressure both women and men
49
and instead began to protest when the women talked as
though they were the only ones oppressed by
standards of beauty. (217-218)
But all too often this is not at all what women, or even
50