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Intro
Understanding how laptop power works can be very useful in determining what the problem is. I
will first explain how it works, then I will explain how we can troubleshoot.
AC power adapter
How the AC adapter works
The most common type of AC power adapter involves a small box, with one wire to go to the
computer and another wire to go to the wall. There is usually an LED light on it, to tell you that it
is on. (Is it lit on yours?) By the way, Apple notebook power adapters often have an LED that is
actually built into the side of the computer, not into the adapter box, so obviously it won't light
up when it's not connected to the computer.
The power adapter box does several things. It lowers the voltage from the wall's 120 volts AC to
typically 19 volts DC (it will be labeled with the exact voltage). It includes some power noise
filtering. It often includes an automatic circuit breaker or overload detection. If this gets
tripped, you can generally reset it if you unplug it from everything for a few minutes.
You can measure the voltages on your AC adapter with a multimeter. When it is unplugged from
the computer but still plugged in to the wall, it is normal to find that the voltage may be 1 to 3
volts higher than the printed output rating.
Troubleshooting: AC Power adapter LED is off when you plug the adapter into
the wall but not into the computer
Has it been overloaded? Is the power strip turned on / is the outlet working? Is the cord from the
adapter to the wall fully plugged in on both ends (try wiggling)? Your adapter may be fried- try
borrowing an indentical adapter from a friend and seeing if that one will work in it's place (but
do not plug it in to your computer, or you might fry your friend's adapter).
For those of you with circular connectors, your task is easy. Measure the voltage between the
inside and the outside. A diagram on the adapter's label will tell you which should be positive
and negative
For those of you with the 3-pin Dell power connectors, I don't have a diagram for you yet, sorry.
If you try measuring each of the three possible pairs of pins, you should get 20 volts between one
of the pairs.
Okay, the power comes into the plug on the back of the computer. This
connects it to metal traces inside the mainboard of the computer. These will
be connected to voltage regulators which often output 5 volts, 12 volts, 3.3
volts, and the CPU voltage; they sometimes look like the image at right.
Power for the LCD display is usually done seperately. Generally, LCD backlights require high
voltage to operate. A component that might be called a power inverter will step the voltage up to
what is needed for the backlight. Sometimes this inverter is a discrete and replacable component,
and sometimes just a chip on your mainboard. It is also involved in the brightness control.
The battery is an important part. It supplys power to the input-side of the voltage regulators, just
like the power from the AC adapter. Additionally, there is a charging circuit, which uses the
power from the AC adapter prior to the voltage regulators, to charge the battery. (By the way, this
is why the AC adapter voltage is always rated higher than the battery's rated volatge-- you need
higher voltage for charging.)
Short circuits
Anywhere in your laptop, physical or electrical damage can cause a short circuit. A short circuit
will consume all available power, causing your laptop to not turn on. If your power adapter LED
comes on when you plug it into the wall, but then goes off when you plug in the laptop, you
probably have a short circuit.
An ohm-meter / multimeter will read less than ~3 ohms when you measure the resistance
between sides of power going into a short circuit. When measureing between then power pins
going into the back of your computer, consider the 2 pins where you expect voltage to be applied
by the AC adapter. If the resistance indicates a short circuit, this is bad.
A common trick to help isolate possible problems is to try to removing anything that might be a
short circuit. Take out the battery, the hard drive, the DVD/CD drive, the floppy drive, PCMCIA
cards, USB devices, miniPCI cards. See if the computer will then turn on.
You might have luck with a thermal imager (see story below) to find a hot spot caused by the
short circuit.
Spilled liquid
Laptops exposed to small amounts of spilled liquid are repairable in some cases. Liquid can
cause the following types of damage:
Short circuit due to wet liquid (problem goes away after liquid evaporates)
Short circuit due to dried liquid residue
Immediately when a spill occurs, you typically want to turn off the laptop, turn the laptop upside
down (so the liquid goes out the same way it came in), remove the power and battery, and allow
to dry at least overnight.
To remove dried liquid residue: Try removing the keyboard and cleaning any components that
have dried liquid, by using distilled water and Q-tips.
The most common problem is cooling. Try going somewhere air conditioned. Notice if the fan is
broken or clogged with dust (common older HP problem).
Web links
Laptop Battery Problems
Re-soldering a loose power connector
The small charge left in one battery confirmed that the rest of the laptop was functioning.
Disassembly of the laptop revealed large accumulation of lint on the cooling fins of the heat pipe.
See photograph. The cooling fan had slowly but surely suctioned lint and dust from the users
bedroom, some of which was unable to pass between the cooling fins. Over time a huge blockage
developed.
(Blowing air into the computer would push this clump backward towards the fan. This lint would
likely stay clumped together and not leave the machine chassis.)
The local fire department (where I volunteer) carries a thermal imager camera to see heat
(infrared wavelengths) through smoke and walls. The camera was used to observe the circuit
board while power was applied. The area near the power connector immediately began to show
heat - thus confirming the connector or circuit card traces as the location of the electrical short.
(A good thing I did not pry up any surface mounted components!).
Dissection of the connector did not reveal the short. (Dissection meaning nibbling with diagonal
cutters.) I still measured zero ohms resistance from the plus side to the minus side. Removal of
the plus connector pin and resoldering of a small wire in its place somehow cleared the short.
The laptop works fine but I am disappointed not to know the exact source of the problem. The
circuit board is likely a multi-layer board. One can see the top and bottom outer layers of copper
foil on fiberglass epoxy board, and see shadows of the inner layer (often a copper ground plane).
Surface mount components attach to the surface, through-hole components pass from top to
bottom through a hole drilled through. The inner layer ground plane (by design) should not get
too close to this drilled hole. The "leg" of the +19VDC power connector passed through - one
cannot observe what may have happened in that hole. (The short may re-appear.)
I do not know of anywhere to actually buy replacement power pins, but there
might be places on the Internet like http://partsurfer.hp.com. Any blackened
material will act as an insulator and would need to be cleaned off before it
could be used.
Good luck,
Greg
It is possible that some other component burnt up and you can replace it, but
it is not likely. I suspect you have melted a voltage regulator, because these
guys take the brunt of any extra voltage you give them.
Greg