KOSSEL REV B BUILD GUIDE

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STEP 1: BASE ASSEMBLY

Gather the following parts:

6 Aluminum corners for motors

12 - M3x10 bolts
36 - M4 2020 T-Nut
36 M4x10mm Bolts
3 2600g/cm motors
3 - 20 tooth GT2 pulleys

1. Place the GT2 Pulley on the motor and tighten

the set screw, install the pulley as picture with
the set screw closest to the motor.

2. Attach the corners to the motors using the

M3x10 bolts
(Make sure your motor connector is pointing to the side
not up or down.)

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 3. Using M4 t-nuts and M4x10 bolt insert them through the
side holes of you corner brackets as pictured. These will be
used to secure the 2020 beam to the corners.

Attach 2x 2020 x 300mm beams to the right side of each corner as pictured
below. Make sure the t-nuts are loose enough to spin and lock down then
installing them.

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 5. You can now combine the 3 sections as pictured.

Base is assembled giving a great platform to continue your

build

STEP 2: UPPER ASSEMBLY:

Gather the following parts:

3 Aluminum corners for tops

12 - M4 2020 T-Nut
12 M4x10mm Bolts
3 Nylock Nuts
3 M3x25mm Bolts
6 f623 Bearings
3 2020 x 300mm

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 1. Install the M4x10mm Bolts and t-nuts as
pictured.
2. Install the 2020 x 300mm beam on left side of
each corner in the same way they were done
on the lower corners. Insure the all the
corners are facing up when attaching the up
direction can be determined by the hex nut
hole cut on one side.
3. Combine the 3 corners to and tighten down
the t-nuts and insure they twist and lock.
4. Next gather the m3x25mm bolt, 2 f623
bearings, and nylock nut. Using the M3 bolt
and Nylock nut insert the bolt in the hole in
the center point of the corner. Using a pair of
plyers or a wrench thread the nylock nut
partly onto the end of the M3 bolt that is
coming through the back side of the corner
so that you have a small amount of thread
sticking out.

6.) Using two bearings face to face with

the flanged side away from each other fit

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them onto the screw end allowing the
screw to pass through them and continue
into the other side of the corner.

Should look like this when complete:

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VERTICAL RAILS INSTALLATION:

3 - 700mm 2020
9 - M4x8 Bolts
9 - M4 t-nuts
1.) Start by putting the M4 bolt through the outer center
hole. Thread it into a t-nut placed on the inside of the
corner piece.
Repeat the process for all 8 remaining corner pieces.

2.) Once all the bolts are in place insert

the 700mm 2020 rails into the base
assembly. Lock these rails in place
securely using the bolt and t-nut.

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STEP 3: SLIDERS
We are now going to assemble so
of the smaller parts of the kit

Remember we are dealing with plastic printed parts and some

clean up may be needed to have parts fit properly.

Gather the following items:

3 - Printed Slider brackets
9 Roller Wheels
9 - M5X25 Counter sunk
9 - M5 bolts
3 - M3x20
3 - M3 Nuts

1. Screw the M5 bolts into the back of the slider brackets.

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2. Once the screws are in place, put the
rollers wheels on to each of the M5
bolts as pictured, followed by the M5
Nylock Nut, (It is a good idea to not
tighten down on the nut too much as
it may impede motion of the roller.)

3.) Insert the M3 bolt through the

side hole on the slider bracket and
place the M3 nut in the slotted
opening in line with it and thread
them together slightly. (This is the
tensioner for the sliders that will be
adjusted later.)

Repeat these steps for all three sliders.

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STEP 4: CARRIAGE ASSEMBLY

GATHER THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

3 Slider assemblies
3 carriages
6 M3x20
3 M3x16
9 M3 Nuts

1.) Insert the 3x M3 Nuts into the recesses on the slider assembly. They should
fit snugly.
2.) Insert 2x M3x20 screws into the upper part of the carriage:

3.) Insert 1x M3x16 screws into the upper part of the carriage.

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4.) You can now attach the carriage to the slider as pictured

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STEP 5: DIAGONAL ROD ASSEMBLY

GATHER THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

3- Carbon fiber rods

1- M3 threaded rod

12- ball links

Hacksaw blade

Long aluminum extrusion

1- M3 8mm screw

1- T-Nut.

Using the hacksaw blade, measure and cut the threaded rod into 12x 30mm
half way into the ball links.

Measure the distance (in mm) from the end of the ball link to the center of
the bolt hole and write it below.

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Target total Length of diagonal rod 230 mm

Subtract ball link measurement - ________ x2= _______ mm

Subtract multiplied ball link value from total length to get

cut rod length _______mm

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The ball links used when this manual was written have a measurement of 25mm
from the end to the bolt hole. We took this value, multiplied by 2 (for both ends)
and subtracted from our target rod length of 240mm to get the carbon fiber rod
cut length of 180mm.

Using the aluminum extrusion, bolt and T-Nut; make a cutting jig as shown:

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Using the jig and the hacksaw blade; cut the carbon fiber rods into the

6 equal length rods. Use light pressure while cutting, this will reduce the

chance of splintering.

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Take all 6 rods and 12 ends and line them all up using the 2 long M3 screws

and T-Nuts, make sure the ends are all aligned perpendicular to the screws.

Make sure both sides are aligned the same way.

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Apply the supplied glue to the threads and push the rods together ensuring

that they are all aligned properly and straight on BOTH sides.

Set the rods aside for now for the glue to dry.

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STEP 6: END EFFECTOR ASSEMBLY

GATHER THE BOWDEN EXTRUDER KIT:

1 Roll Kapton tape
4 M3x25 Bolt
4 M3 Nylock Nuts
1 Hot end
1 Fan
1 Inductive Sensor
1 hot end mount/sensor mount
1 end effector plate

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1.) Dry fit your parts. The End effector might need to be sanded to allow the
hotend to fit. It should fit tightly in the slot.

2.) Once the hot end fits tightly into the effector we are going to attach the
hot end using the hot end mount and 4 x M3x25mm bolts and nylock
nuts.

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3.) Once the hotend is attached we can now attach the inductive sensor. As
we dry fit all our parts we have probably checked to make sure our probe
fits before forcing it in.

4.) The probe should be mounted almost level with the print head using the
two nuts supplied with the probe. You wont be able to use the washer
on top of the mount but below the mount works fine.

5.) Mount the 40mm fan to the hotend mount so the wires are at the top
using 2 M3x12 bolts.

The effector is now complete we now need to attach the diagonal

rods
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STEP 7: ATTACHING THE DIAGONAL RODS
We are now going to attach rods to the end effector. As well as our carriage
assemblies to make our center assembly.

GATHER THE FOLLOWING:

6 Previously assembled tie rods

12 - M3x25 bolts

12 - M3 nylock nuts

1.) Attach the tie rod ends to the tapered side of the effector by
using 1 M3x25 bolt, and 1 M3 nylock nut. The nylock nut fits
into a recess on the printed part.

2.) Now we are going to attach the

carriage assemblies to the tie rods in
the same manor to make one center
assembly.

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STEP 9: ELECTRONIC ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING TIME

Mounting Kit, Ramps kit

The mounting Kit may change from what is pictured

This is the brain of the printer, it is composed of an Arduino Mega 2560 board (programmable
controller), a RAMPS shield (provides all the necessary connections and for the motors, sensors, hot
end and heated bed) and the stepper drivers that control the power and signals to the stepper motors.

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 Kossel Delta Build Manual

Install ALL the jumpers on to the RAMPS board as shown:

This enables 16X micro-stepping for the stepper drivers, which is where the precision is derived from.

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If your stepper drivers have heat sinks, peel the tape off of the back and apply the heat sink
to the chip on the drivers.

Align the stepper drivers as shown with the small potentiometer towards the top of the board
and press them down on to the board

Press the RAMPS shield with stepper drivers installed on to the Arduino board

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Make sure it is all the way pressed together:

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2.) Mount Ramps and mega to the
Larger acrylic bed mount using

2 M3x30 bolts and 2 M3 Nylock

nuts. Use the 2 circulsar spacers so
that the boards can sit a little more
level. Once the ramps and mega are
mounted Prep the mount for
installation into the frame by putting

4 M3x12 bolts the corner of the

mounting frame and securing
them with M3 t-nuts. Make sure
your boards are facing downward.

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3.) Mount endstops to the endstop holders. Using 2 M3x12 Bolt and 2 M3 nylock
nuts. Make sure that the switch is inline with the hole in which we are going to attach
it to the printer. We are also going to prepare these for mounting by insert an M3x12
bolt through the mounting hole and securing it with a M3 t-nut.

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STEP 10: ATTACH TO FRAME

1.) Attach the ramps mount plate to

the frame so the power and USB
adapter point out toward the flat
side of the frame. While doing this
also install the heated bed
support.

2.) Attach endstops to frame. The mounting

point is above the switch. The height at which
they are mounted does not matter at this point.

3.) Mount the power supply to the left side of the frame using the supplied
mounting brackets. 2 M4x10 Bolts and 4 M3x12 bolts and 4 M3 T-nuts
are needed for this task.

M4x10 Bolts

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STEP 11: CONSTRUCT EXTRUDER

GATHER THE FOLLOWING:

o Large motor

o Injection molded extruder parts

o Drive gear

o 2 M3x45 bolts

o Upper extruder block

o Push fit

o Laser Cut Mounting Plate

o 2 M3x20 bolts

1.) Remove the 2 screws in the back

of the motor opposite the
connector location.

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 2.) With the motor flat on the table a connector facing you install the
drive gear, injection molded extruder and Upper block in that
order. (you will need to remove the spring to access the screw
behind the tensioner arm.) Install drive gear with set screws to the
motor side. You will also need to install the push fit as pictured:

3.) Mount the extruder to the mounting plate using the M3x45 bol

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STEP 12: HEATED BED WIRING AND INSTALLATION
Gather the following:

Heat bed
Thermistor
Kapton
Tape
3 M3x16
Bolts
3 M3 Nylock Nuts

2 lengths of wire heavier

14AWG red and black 10" in
length each you will need to
cut them from the longer
length provided in your wire
kit.
1.) Remove heat bed and thermistor from package. They are both
in the same package.

3.) Strip both ends of each wire to

prepare for soldering.

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3.) Solder one end of each wire the to the two
larger solder pads on the printed side of the
heat bed.

4.) Once your solder joints are cooled off we

are going to tape the end of the thermistor to
the center of the printed side of the heat bed.
The little glass ball is the temp senor.

This completes the wiring for the heated bed

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STEP 13: ELECTRICALLY WIRING THE PRINTER

1.) Connect power supply to ramps board using 14 gage wire.

Pay attention to polarity code on board and power supply.

Note we have not connected

the main power feed as of yet

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2.) Connect your lower motors
using the short motor cables
from the wire kit. ( Also good
time to mark which
tower/motor is which axis)

3.) Run the endstop cables from the endstops to the board. The endstop
cable are color coded for a reason they need to go into the board
correctly green is signal (s) red is power. if hooked up in reverse can kill
your board. You are also plugging these endstops into the max possition
on the board

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4.) Mount the heat bed to the heat bed mounts so that the wire leads
are point the same direction as the ramps board. Use 3 circualr
spacers, 3 M3x25 and 3 m3 nylock nut. Wire the heat bed into D8
Location on the ramps and plug the thermistor into the T1 location.

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5.) Plug the long Motor wire into the E0 location.
This is for our extruder which we will place later.

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 Continue with the Wiring

To continue with our wiring we need to place our center assembly into the frame.

To make this easier we left the top of the machine off

1.)Slide our center assembly right over the towers really easily. You
need to also remove the endstops for this step.

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2.) After the center assembly is
in place we can assemble the
endstops and top of the printer.

3.) Use 2 M3x10 bolts and 2 M3 t-nuts to

attach the extrude to the upper section of
the printer. Plug motor cable into the
extruder motor.

Wiring Continued

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1.) We need to extend the fan wires all
the way to the power supply.(Fan is on
full power always in this setup.) Cut the
plug off the fan wires and strip the
wires back about half and inch.
2.) Using the 22 gage wires included in
the kit strip the ends of the wires and
twist the stripped ends of fan wire and
matching color wire together and then
solder them to extend the cables.

3.) After the extension cables are in

place run the six wires excluding the
sensor wires to the ramps board.

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1.) Run all six wires to the ramps board area

2.) Strip the red heater wires and connect to D10.

3.)For the thermistor wires we need to wire them to a connector.

Strip the end of the wire back approximately half and inch and
repeat the process for the short pig tale wire that came in your kit.
Then twist each end together and solder them like we did for the fan
extension cables. Tape them using capton tape so that lead

do not touch.

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5.) Connect the fan wires directly to the power supply

Red to V+

Black to V-

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 Inductive sensor Wiring
1.) We are going to Strip the black casing of the wire back about 10 inches.

You have now Exposed about 10 inches of wire.

Brown = 12v

Blue = Ground
Black = Signal

2.) We are going to send 12v and ground directly to the power supply.

Brown to V+

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 Blue to V-

3.) For the signal wire we have to do some wiring.

Using the servo extesnion

cable cut off about 6 inches
of it from the male end of the
wire.Seperate the three
wires into individual strands.

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 Wiring Diagram

12v to power supply

Brown 12v =V+

To Ground
Blue

10k Pull Down resistor

Resistor
Black

15k Resistor Signal

We also need the two

resistors that came in the
kit. 10K and 15K.

Because our signal wire from the

sensor is black that is what we are
gonna use as our signal lead for
the connector.

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 10k
15k

In the picture red is my

ground black is my signal.

Solder the 15k resistor inline

with the signal line. The 10K
resistor will be soldered
between the signals line and
the ground to act as a pull
down resistor for the system.

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All we have left to do solder the signal
line from the sensor inline with the
15k resistor and insulate using the
capton tape.

Insert connector into the X-Min

location on the rampsboard making
sure that the black signal line is
located on the sam side as the green
signal lines for the endstops.

Wire in main power

Cut the female end of the wire off

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Strip black casing bace approximately 2 inches.

Strip the individual wires approximately

1/4 of an inch.

Screw the wires into there designated

location on the power supply.

Green = Ground

Blue = Neutral
Brown = Live

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 Clean Up
Ok right now we have amess of wires going in every direction.
Take a minute to clean up your wires use the capton tape and
some zip ties to condense the wires into clean groups

Before After

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 Final Step The Belts

Cut your Belt material

Into 3 equal lengths.

Feed the Belt around your

upper and lower pulleys.

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Secure belt to carriage by creating a loop in the belt
and holding the teeth side together with a zipties.

Right now your belts are slack. This is a good time to install the belt
tensioning springs. They are 3 spring like things that came with your kit. Best
place to install them is just below your carriage on the belt side that is secured
to the carriage.

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Next we are going to loosen the three bolts at the top of our printer that
hold our top frame in place. We are then going to use that to tension the
belts manually.

You Printer is now Mechanically and Electronically

ready to go all you need now is to install firmware
and start printing

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