HMS BOUNTY

One of the main problems facing the inhabitants of the British colonies in the eighteenth
century was the complete dependence on the mother country for supplies. Thanks to James
Cook, the breadfruit tree had been discovered years before, and it was shown that an edible flour
could be produced from the fruits. The British Admiralty came up with the idea of transporting
and transplanting these plants so that a large scale cultivation would provide the colonies
with primary subsistence. To carry out this project, a 230- ton sailing ship named Bethia was
chosen in May 1787. Its hull was reinforced and masts and fittings modified and adapted to the
transport of saplings of the breadfruit tree. On June 8, 1787, this ship was registered in the
List of the Royal Navy under the name of Bounty. The honor of command was given to ship's
lieutenant William Bligh, an officer who had served and matured under the command of the same
James Cook.
In December 1787, the Bounty set sail from the port of London. Bligh tried in vain to
pass Cape Horn, deciding finally to set sail for Tahiti via orient. In April, the Bounty finally
passed the Cape of Good Hope and six months later dropped anchor in Matavai Bay. It was
October 26, 1788. The first leg of the trip had lasted almost 10 months.
A voyage as long as this one can only have had a negative effect on the crew's morale.
In this era, the living conditions aboard ship for the sailors were severe; discipline was ironclad
and maintained with the whip. The sailors themselves were often violent and quarrelsome,
and sometimes even conscripted against their will. Bligh was the typical British officer and
his military training was fit for these adversities. For this reason perhaps, after five months In
a natural paradise replete with food and amusement, the creaw prepared to repart reluctantly,
knowing well what life awaited them on board. When the plants were all loaded under the
direction of Senior Gardener Mr. David Nelson, the captain once again gave the order to set sail.
But after only 24 days, part of the crew mutinied under the command of coxswain Fletcher
Christian, and took control of the ship. Captain Bligh was placed on a lifeboat together with
the men remaining faithful to him, and the mutineers on the Bounty turned back to Tahiti.
Bligh navigated for 4000 miles and after innumerable hardships arrived safely to the
island of Timor, where he reported the crime to the British authorities.
The Bounty meanwhile, had left a part of the crew on Tahiti and had reached Pitcairn
island, where Fletcher Christian had the ship burned. The sailors who had chosen to return to
Tahiti were soon captured by the frigate Pandora, sent purposely by order of the Admiralty.
Christian died on Pitcairn. In 1809, an American whaler rescued the last of the mutineers: a
certain Alexander Smith, alias John Adams. William Bligh, after having reached the rank of
Admiral, died in London in 1817.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
FIG.1
Construct separately on pieces 1 and 2 the joints for the masts as i n fig. 2, 3, an d 4 . U ni te
th e fa lse k eel, r ei nf or ci ng th e p oi nt of contact with pieces 3 and 4. Before gluing, make sure the
pieces match perfectly.
FIG. 5 (and drawing fig. 1)
Position frames 5 to 15 making sure they a r e p e r f e c t l y perpendicular to the false keel
and parallel to each other. Position all reinforcements 23 to 32 on both sides of the false keel. Observe
drawing 3 where the exact continuation of the hull outline Is illustrated. These Indications will help
you sand the reinforcements correctly, continuing the line of the frames. Position frame 16 on the
false keel and file it to size.
FIG. 6
Plank the under deck with strips 34, then glue It between frames 10 and 11.
FIG. 7
Position stern reinforcements 17 to 22 in a parallel fashion (Fig. 7 ) .
FIG. 8-9
Shape frame 16 to match curve of the lower section of the reinforcing blocks.
FIG. 1O
Position temporarily deck 36 on the hull with some rubber bands. Make sure the bow joint and all
the holes for the hatches and masts m atc h th e fu ll - scal e d esi gn s. C he ck th e c urv at ur e at ste rn o n
blocks 17 to 22 where the deck and transom 40 will rest. Remove the deck and shape the blocks as
necessary. Plank the deck with strips 37 (Fig. 1 3 ) , leaving the holes free.
Now you m ay glue the deck to the hull. Shape the sides of the frames according to the
outline of the deck. Clue the transom 40 and the bulwarks 38 and 39.
FIG. 11
Plank the lower section of the stern with strips 35 as shown.
FIG. 12
 Execute the first planking of the hull sides with strips 41. Start from the bulwarks and
proceed downwards. Leave free the space for the true keel (51 to 53) at the bow and under
the keel (see Fig.26).
FIG. 14-15
Plank the upper hull section next to bulwarks 38 and 39 to deck level, working towards
the bow. The planking goes above the deck between frames 6 and 7, creating a low bulwark to
the cutwater. Sand the first planking so that It corresponds with the second. The first planking
and bulwarks should be on the same level.
FIG. 16
Apply and perfect the second planking using strips 42; smooth the surface using fine
sandpaper.
FIG. 17
Next position strip 43 on the deck so that it Is flush with the hull planking. Fig. 18
Illustrates the construction of the shoots (one of each side of the ship). For an exact
placement, refer to Fig. 21 and to the overall views given in Designs 1 and 2. Next apply strips
43 using the bulwarks as a starting point. Keep the strips flush with the external planking.
FIG. 19
Position the first internal stringer 45.
FIG. 20
Position the second Internal stringer (44) along the bulwarks and the transom.
FIG. 22 (see also design 2, Fig.1)
1 - Construct the wales using strips 49 and 50 (Fig.24) starting
from the waterline.
2 - Position the first wales 46 flush with stringer 43 and above the
bulwarks. Clue the strip along the hull.
3 - Next position the second wales 47 and the third wales 48 as
indicated In Design 2.
FIG. 25
Using the rudder hole on the deck as a guide, make the hole In the hull towards stern for
the stern post 53 and the rudder 54.
FIG. 26-27-28
Clue the cutwater 51 after making the joints and holes indicated in the full-scale design.
Glue the keel 52 and the stern post 53.
FIG. 29
Prepare the joints for hinges 55 on pieces 53 and 54.
FIG. 30
Position the hinges as indicated in figure 31.
FIG. 32
Fasten eyebolts 56 to the hull and rudder. Attach rings 57. Pass chain 58 through the
rudder ring and attach both ends to the rings on the hull.
FIG. 33
Construct the hawse-hole guards as indicated.
FIG. 34
Position the pieces one on top of the other, then drill them.
FIG. 35
Position the hawse-holes on both sides of the ship towerds the bow. under the second wales
and against the cutwater. Deepen the holes drilled above, drilling also the hull where the cable
will pass.
FIG. 36
OVERALL VIEW
FIG. 37-38 (Design 2, fig.4)
Plank the Internal side of the bulwarks and transom with strips 63. Position on the interior
the frames 71. Make holes at points A and B (sheave holes). On the inside and at the same
points, position the reinforcement frames 65 (drilled and tapered strips). Construct and position
the bulwarks stanchions (strips 64). Position a first handrail on the bulwarks and transom
(strips 66). A second finishing strip 67 will go on top of this one and you will need to round
off its u pper corners. Position it how ever only after fastening the coaming hinges (Fig.40
to 45). Apply a piece of strip 67 on the bulwark heads (Fig.48).
FIG. 39
Construct the pin rack with pieces 72 to 77 and position It as Illustrated.
 FIG . 40
Construct the coaming hinges as follows: fold In half two 1 cm. pieces of
metal strip 68.
FIG. 41
Make the joints for the female part F and the male part M.
FIG. 42
Re-open the metal strip and insert pin 68
FIG. 43
Squeeze it with a pliers in order that the body rests flat while the joints remain rounded for
the passage of the pin. Insert the pin used above in the two parts and then cut it according to
the width of the hinges.
FIG. 44
Hollow out the heads of the first handrail (66) and of the first strip of the coamings.
FIG. 45
Now position column 70 on the deck stringer In order to support the coaming.
FIG. 46
Make columns 78 to 81 for the parapet and position them on the stringer. Follow both the
horizontal and the vertical Inclination of the bulwarks. Make banisters 82 and 83 being careful to
follow the lines of the deck. Position them on the column.
FIG. 47
Make pin-racks 84 and 85 and fasten them towards the bow as Illustrated.
FIG. 48-49-50
Make the steps using strips 86 and 87.
Note) The depth of the steps on the wales must be equal to the depth of the steps on the
planking (Fig. 49). All steps must be on the same level.
FIG. 51
Make the channels, two of each kind, remembering that when mounted on the sides of
the hull, each channel must correspond perfectly to the one on the other side. It is best to
detach the piece of wwlas where the channels will be glued in order to better apply pressure.
(Note- The channels are designed to be fastened directly to the hull planking). Position strips
A, B and C after mounting the shrouds. Mount channel shelves 94 on the channels. Fig. 48 and
design 2.
FIG. 53
DECK ACCESSORIES
FIG. 54
Prepare the pieces for the cabin. Make the hole for the window on wall 96 only.
FIG. 55
Prepare (from leftover pieces) a few small blocks (strips) to reinforce the inside of
the cabin. Construct the cabin in the location given in this figure.
FIG. 56
Plank the walls with strips 102. Plank also the roofs 99 and 100 with strips 102. Position
window 103.
FIG. 57
Position coamings 101 and handle 104
FIG. 58
POSITIONING THE CABIN
FIG. 59
C lu e r ud de r wh ee l 10 8 on t he l on ge st pi n of dr um 1 07 . Pin t he drum to stands 1C5 and 106.
Position the whole on the deck. Make sure the axis of drum 107 Is parallel to the waterline by resting
the fore end rudder stand on a few thicknesses of wood. Make the tiller 109 (3x3 walnut). On either
side of the top of the tiller, position eyebolts with shank 110; shorten the shanks to the correct length.
C l e a n b l o c k s 112 . G l u e t h e t i l l e r t o t h e r u d d e r 5 4 . P r e p a r e 4 groups of the following pieces:
eyebolt 110, ring 111, and block 112. Make the holes in the deck where each group will be glued.
Following the overhead view of the deck, start with block 1 1 2 / A and proceed In the sequence given
In Fig.59. Lastly, put thread 113 Into place. Fl G . 6 2
Mount the capstan and make bars C. Flatten a part of the circumference of the base where It will rest
on the grating shown In fig ur e 7 2. The cap sta n wi ll be gl ue d Int o pl ac e on ly afte r th is grating has
been made and positioned.
FIG. 63
 Assemble and glue the bilge pump 115.
FIG. 64-65
Make grating 118 In the dimensions given in Fig. 64. Make coamings 116 slightly tapered at the
base in order to correspond to the athwartship curve of the deck (Fig. 65). Mak e coamings 117
and glue them to the larger sides of the grating. Clue coamings 116 prepared above. Apply the
grating to the deck.
FIG. 66-67
Construct this grating In the same manner as the one above.
FIG. 68
Make holes on strips 122 with a diameter inferior to that of the cannon balls. Clue balls 123
Into place.
FIG. 69
B ui ld c oam i ng s 12 4 an d 1 25 w it h th e sam e syst em u se d a bo ve (Fig.69) and position them
on the deck as illustrated In Fig.70 and 72.
Construct the internal border with strips 126 (except on the side fo r th e l ad de r) wh er e
gr at in g 12 7 wi ll r est; the gr at in g sho ul d remain flush with coaming 125 (Fig. 7 1 ) . Build the access
ladder 128 and position It exactly as shown.
Before positioning mast heels, see Design 3.
All technical designs in Full Scale

FIG. 73-74
Build coamings 129/A and 130/A with the same concave base as before. Coamings 129/B and
130/B remain straight. Make the holes sh ow n In Fi g. 74 . At th e for e e nd o f c oam i ng 1 29 /A. m ak e
th e openings where the anchor cable will pass.
FIG. 75-76
P o s it i o n s t r i ps 1 3 1 o n t h e i n s i d e fo r t h e h a t c h c o v e r st o p s . Construct hatch covers 132 In
order to cover the entire internal width. Make the holes where the cable will pass. Position strip 135
lengthwise to create a divider effect. Make the holes on the hatch covers where rings 133 and 134 will
be attached.
FIG. 77
Make the base for the life-boat with strips 135 and 136. Supports A and B are obtained by using
the life-boat hull as a template. The life-boat must be tied to the base, and can be covered as shown In
Design 1. Figure 1.
P . S . ) For the mast heels, see Design 3.
FIG. 80
Prepare the windlass base as shown in the design.
FIG. 81-83
Construct column 143 as illustrated. Make first the holes In sides 142. Before gluing them to
the column, make stops as In fig. 82 which will be Inserted In the holes made above. Make cross-
piece 147. Make a hole underneath It In the center. Shorten eyebolt 148 and attach it under the
cross-piece. Hang the bell 149. Clue the small columns 146 to the sides 142. Position and glue the
cross-piece group.
FIG. 84-86
Pin the toothed wheel 141 to the windlass barrels 140/A; correct any axial abnormalities. Pin
the windlass barrels to the base 138 and 139 and drunis 140/B. Paint black pieces 140/A, 140/B,
and 141. Construct the small hatch with coamings 150 and cover 151 (see fig.85) and make the
spaces and the holes for the anchor cable.
FIG. 87
Construct the lateral gratings from coamings 155 and grating 156 following the assembly sequence
given In the figure. Position the gratings on the deck exactly as shown In fig. 86.
FIG. 88
Prepare and paint smokestack 157. The nail marks can be realized by etching the piece with a
metal point.
FIG. 89
Prepare bitts 158 as in figure 90-91. Remember that two pulleys will be inserted in each bitt.
Clue sides A and the two central pieces B to each other and drill the necessary holes through
them. Shape the bitt head and the joints. Insert the two pulleys. Prepare pin- rail 163 with the
proper holes. Clue the bitts to the pin-rail using the distance given In fig. 89, Cut dowel 160 to size
and Insert it in the holes at the base of the bitts. Attach blocks 162 with thread 161 as in fig. 92.
FIG . 93
 Prepare bitts 164/A and 164/B using the same procedure given above. Bitt 164/A should be
higher than 164/B because the pin-rail 165 (Fig.96) must remain parallel to the waterline. Assemble
as in fig. 93.
FIG. 98
Prepare the bowsprit bitt with strips 167. Make the joints on the vertical columns for the cross-
piece.
FIG. 99
Sand the bases of warping bollard 166 in such a manner that when glued to stringer 43 they
rest perfectly perpendicular to the waterline (see Design 2, fig.1 and 2).
FIG. 100-101-102
Prepare knighthead 168, pieces A,B, and C. Shape piece A being careful that the side which will
rest against column B is properly inclined to follow the curve of the bow. Before gluing them to the
deck, remove a piece of strips 43 and 45 (stringer). Place the knightheads against the cutwater
(fig.102).
FIG . 103-104
Compare metallic pieces 169 with the full-scale design to identify their exact position on the
transom. Shape the internal surface of pieces B and C to match the sides of the hull. Adapt piece
169/A to the transom by curving It slightly.
FIG. 1O5
Observe how the taff-rail is raised at its highest point (Point A) and falls flush with the
transom at Point B. Proceed to the mounting of the pieces, testing continually their correct
position before gluing.
FIG. 106
Detach the pieces from the photo-etched brass plate.
FIG. 1O7
Remove any imperfection or excess material.
FIG. 108
Paint the entire surface of nameplate 170/B.
FIG. 109
Let the paint dry completely, then sand the surfaces in relief with extra fine sandpaper.
FIG. 110
The result is a colored background with brass-colored parts in relief.
FIG. 111
Position the nameplate, following the curve of the transom and over the taff-rail. To position the
ends of the nameplate on pieces 169/C (left and right), bend them slightly and gently. Position the
taff rail 170/A, shortening it somewhat.
FIG. 112
Position windows 170/C.
FIG. 113
Position momentarily a quarter gallery (171) on one side of the ship towards stern. Trace the shape
of the piece on the wales.
FIG. 114
Remove a layer strip in the traced zone where the quarter gallery will be applied.
FIG. 115-116
Clue the quarter gallery In Its f rame and repeat the above operations for the opposite
gallery.
FIG. 117 HEAD-RAILS
Check pieces 174,175 and 176 with the joints on rails 173 and oh the cutwater. Correct any
defects. Clue them on the cutwater perpendicular to the waterline and parallel to each other in the
order given in Fig. 120, 121 and 122. Prepare the upper knees 177/A and B and join them with
pieces 178/A and B (see Fig. 127, 128, 129) in the dimensions given in Fig. 120. Give the pieces the
proper curvature. Clue them as shown in the technical designs.
Prepare lower knees 177/C and D as in Fig. 119. curving and gluing them as illustrated. Prepare
central rails 173/B (left and right) and curve them correctly. Study figures 123 to 126 which illustrates
the steps towards a correct assembly of these pieces. Be careful that the curvatures of the left and
right rails are symmetrical. When the correct shape has been obtained, glue the pieces into place.
Prepare now the upper rails 173 (left and right) in the correct curve. File the part of the curve
where the catheads will rest. Position and glue the pieces.
FIG. 13O
 Make catheads 180 and 181 as Illustrated. Position them on the deck, observing Fig. 120 and
Design 2.
FIG. 131
Construct a hook 184 on blocks 183. Rig the tackle as shown and the rope end 182 to bitt 188
(Fig.132).
FIG. 132
Make bitt 188 and position it to the side of the cathead towerds stern. Eliminate a piece of
strip 43 in order to fasten the bitt to the bulwark.
FIG. 133
Mount anchors 185. Knot a segment of cable 152 to the ring and put the other end of the cable
through the hawse-holes (Fig. 134).
FIG. 135
A buoy for each anchor can be made as shown. The core can be of wood covered with very thin
thread. Sling it externally and let run cable 186 for 15-20 mm. In order to fasten it to the anchor
crown (Fig. 133). Faten the buoys to the fore shrouds, roll up rope 186 and tie it to the shrouds
near the buoy.
FIG. 136
The anchors can be allowed to hang from the cathead, or positioned on their side as in figure
136, tied to a warping bollard.
FIG. 137
Construct the culverin columns 189. NOTE: The four pieces at the fore end should be lower
thant those at the stern. See Design 2. Wrap copper band 190 around the top. Make a hole on
the top where the culverins 191 will be pinned. Attach columns 189 eliminating a part of the
capping and wales when necessary.
FIG. 138
Construct the tackles separately. Fasten them to the cannons and to the bulwark as illustrated in
the right hand side of the figure. Position sling 196. Since the cannons are small. It will not be
necessary to attach blocks to the cannon tackles.
FIG. 139
MIZZEN MAST 1 left/right - Lower mast shrouds
2 left/right - Topmast shrouds
3 left/right - Backstays
MAIN MAST 4 left/right - Lower shrouds
5 left/right - Topmast shrouds
6 left/right - Topmast backstays
7 left/right - Topgallant backstays
FORE MAST 8 left/right - Lower shrouds
9 left/right - Fore topmast shrouds
10 left/right - Fore topmast backstays
11 left/right - Topgallant backstays
FIG. 140
STAYS 12 Mizzen stay
13 Mizzen topmast stay
14 Main stay
15 Main preventer stay
16 Topmast stay
17 Topmast preventer stay
18 Topgallant stay
19 Fore stay
20 Preventer forestay
21 Fore topmast stay
22 Fore topmast preventer stay
23 Caff stay
24 Bowsprit rack
FIG. 141
HALYARDS YARDS

MAIN MAST
25 left/right - Main yar d
26 left/right - Topsail yard
25 left/right - Topgallant yard
FORE MAST
 27 left/right - Main yard
28 left/right - Topsail yard
26 left/right - Topgallant yard
MIZZEN MAST
29 left/right - Mizzen yard
30 left/right - Mizzen topsail yard
31 left/right - Caff-Inner peak halyard
32 left/right - Gaff-outer peak halyard
RIGGING ACCESSORIES
256 Lower chain plates 7 mm. (4393/07)
257 Top chain plates 5 mm. (Note: only deadeyes
and straps are not metal)
258 Deadeyes (3 mm.) for backstays (4050/03)
259 Hearts 10 mm. (4062/10)
260 Hearts 6 mm. (4062/06)
261 Blocks 3 holes 7 mm. (4083/07)
262 Blocks 2 holes 6 mm. (4080/06)
263 Blocks 1 hole 3 mm. (4070/03)
264 Fiddle block 1 hole 10 mm. (4062/10)
265 Eyebolts with shank (4703)
266 Rings (4000/04)
267 Rings (4000/03)
268 Black thread 1,3 mm. (4126/13)
269 Black thread 1 mm. (4126/10)
270 Black thread 0.75 mm. (4126/07)
271 Natural thread 1 mm. (4124/10)
272 Natural thread 0,5 mm. (4124/05)
273 Natural thread 0.10 mm. (4124/01)
274 Cleats 5 mm. (4935/05)
275 Pinrail 9 mm. (4101/09)
FIG. 143-144-145-146
LIFTS
MAIN MAST (FIG. 144)
35 left/right - Main yard
36 left/right - Topsail
37 left/right - Topgallant
FORE MAST (FIG.145)
38 left/right - Main yard
39 left/right - Topsail yard
40 left/right - Topgallant yard
41 left/right - Spritsail yard (146)
MIZZEN MAST (FIG.143)
42 left/right - Mizzen yard
43 left/right - Mizzen topsail yard
44 left/right - Caff vangs (147)
FIG. 147-148-149-150
BRACES
MAIN MAST (FIG.148)
45 left/right - Main yard
46 left/right - Topsail yard
47 left/right - Topgallant yard
FORE MAST (FIG.142)
48 left/right - Main yard
49 left/right - Topsail yard
50 left/right - Topgallant yard
51 left/right - Mizzen topsail yard
52 left/right - Spritsail yard (150)
FIG.151-152-153
SAIL SHEETS (FIG.151)
MAIN MAST
53 left/right - Main sail ( 1 5 1 )
 54 left/right - Topsail ( 1 5 1 )
Note: For the topgallant sail, see
left and right lifts 37 in Fig. 144.
FORE MAST
55 left/rigt - Foresail (152)
56 left/right - Fore topsail (151)
Note: For the topgallant sail, see
left and right lifts 40 (Fig. 145)
57 left/right - Mizzen topsail (151)
58 left/right - Gaff sail (153)
59 left/right - Spritsail (152)
HALYARDS
60 Jib (Fig.151)
61 Flying Jib (Fig.152)
62 Fore staysail (Fig. 152)
SHEETS
63 Jib (Fig.151 )
64 Flying Jib (Fig. 152)
65 Fore staysail (Fig. 152)
TACKS
66 left/right - Main tack (154)
67 left/right - Fore tack (153)
68 left/right - Jib tack (151)
69 left/right - Flying jib tack (152)
70 left/right - Fore staysail tack (152)
71 left/right - Spancer tack (153)
FIG. 154-155-156-157
BOWLINES (FIC.156)
72 left/right - Main bowline
73 left/right - Main topsail bowline
74 left/right - Main topgallant bowline
75 left/right - Fore bowline
76 left/right - Fore topsail bowline
77 left/right - Fore topgallant bowline
78 left/right - Mizzen topsail bowline
BRAILS (FIG.155)
79 left/right - Main sail brail
80 left/right - Topsail brail
81 left/right - Topgallant sail brail
82 left/right - Lower foresail brail
83 left/right - Fore topsail brail
84 left/right - Fore topgallant brail
85 left/right - Trysail brail (154)
86 left/right - Trysail brail (154)
87 lefty/right - Mizzen topsail brail
88 left/right - Spritsail brail
HALYARDS (FIG.157)
89 Flag
90 Gaff flag

LIST OF MATERIALS
1-2 False keel 4 mm. thick
3-4 Lateral reinforcements 4 mm. thick
5-16 Frames 4 mm. thick
17-22 Stern blocks 4 mm. thick
23-32 Side blocks 4 mm. thick
33 Underdeck 1 mm. thick
34 Planking 0,5x4 mm.
35 First transom planking 1.5x6
36 Main deck 1 mm. thick
37 Deck planking 0,5x4 mm. walnut
38-39 Bulwarks 1 mm. thick
40 Transom 1 mm. thick
41 First hull planking 1,5x6 mm.
42 Second hull planking 0,5x4 mm.
43 Stringer 1x5 mm.
44 Stringer 1x3 mm. (stern)
45 Stringer 1x3 mm. (bow)
46 First wales 1x2 mm. walnut
47 Second wales 2x2 mm. walnut
48 Third wales 2x2 mm. walnut
49-50 Wales 2x2 mm. walnut
51 Cutwater 4x4 mm. thick walnut
52 Keel 4x4 mm. thick walnut
53 Stern post 4x4 mm. thick walnut
54 Rudder 4x4 mm. thick walnut
55 Hinges (4371)
A) Pintles
B) Gudgeons
C) Nails (4136/10)
56 Eyebolts (4703)
57 Rings (4000/04)
58 Chain (4360/04)
59-62 Hawse-hole guards 1 mm. thick
63 Internal bulwark planking 0,5x4 mm. walnut
64 Bulwark stanchions 2 mm. walnut
65 Sheave-hole guards from 1x3 mm. strip
66 Handrail 1x5 mm.
67 Handrail 1x3 mm.
68 Hinges - metal strip (2835/03)
69 Hinge pin (4136/10)
70 Columns 4x4 mm. walnut
71 Metal frames (4240/10)
72-77 Pin-rack 1x5 mm.
78-81 Columns 4x4 mm. walnut
82-83 Banister for parapets 4x4 mm.
84-85 Pinrack 1x5 mm.
86 Steps 1x3 mm.
87 Steps 1x2 mm.
88-93 Channels 2 mm. thick
A-B-C) 1x2 mm. strip
91 Channel shelves 2 mm. thick
95 Right wall (cabin) 1 mm. thick
96 Left wall (cabin) 1 mm. thick
97 Front wall (cabin) 1 mm. thick
98 Back wall (cabin) 1 mm. thick
99 Roof (cabin) 1 mm. thick
100 Roof (cabin) 1 mm. thick
101 Hatch coamings 1x1 mm. walnut
102 Cabin planking 0,5x4 mm. walnut
103 Window (5100/04)
104 Handle
A) Eyebolt with shank (4705)
B) Ring (4000/03)
105-106 Rudder stands
107 Rudder drum
108 Rudder wheel (4350/30)
109 Tiller 3x3 mm. walnut
110 Eyebolts (4703)
111 Rings (4000/03)
112 Blocks (4070/02)
113 Thread 1 mm. (4124/10)
114 Capstan
A) Barrel
B) Brackets
C) Bars
115 Bilge pump (4356)
116 Crating coamings 2x4 mm. walnut
117 Crating coamings 2x2 mm. walnut
118 Grating (4325/06)
119 Crating coamings 2x4 mm. walnut
120 Crating coamings 2x2 mm. walnut
121 Crating (4325/06)
122 Shot-rack 1x3 mm.
123 Cannon balls (4385/02)
124 Crating coamings 2x4 mm. walnut
125 Coamings 2x2 mm. walnut
126 Corner stop 1x3 mm.
127 Crating (4325/06)
128 Ladder (4320/15)
129 A-B Hatch coamings 2x6 mm. walnut
130 A-B Hatch coamings 2x6 mm. walnut
131 Corner stop 2x4 mm. walnut
132 < Hatch covers 1x5 mm.
133 Eyebolts (4703)
134 Rings (4000/03)
135 Crosspiece 1x1 mm. walnut
136 Gangway 4x4 mm. walnut
137 Life-boat kit (4302/10)
138 A-B Windlass base 4x4 mm. walnut
139 A-B Windlass base 4x4 mm. walnut
140 A Barrel
140 B Drums
141 Toothed wheel
142 Columns sides 1x5 mm.
143 Column 4x4 walnut
144 Pins (4136/10)
145 Stops 1x3 mm.
146 Columns 1x1 mm. walnut
147 Cross piece
148 Eyebolt (4703)
149 Bell (4140/06)
150 Hatch coamings 1x2 mm.
151 Hatch covers 1 mm. thick
152 Anchor cable 2 mm. (4125/20)
153 Eyebolts (4703)
154 Rings (4000/04)
155 Grating coamings 1x3 mm.
156 Grating (4326)
157 Smokestack (metal)
158 A Sides 0.5x4 mm. walnut
158 B Body 4x4 mm. walnut
158 C Pulleys (4850/04)
159 Pin (4136/10)
160 Dowel (2750/01)
161 Thread 0.5 mm. (4124/05)
162 Blocks (4070/03)
163 Pin rack 1x5 mm.
164 A Back bitts
164 B Front bitts
165 Pin rack 1x5 mm.
166 Warping bollards (4910/09)
167 Bowsprit bitt
168 A-B-C Knightheads 4x4 mm.
169 Taffrail
A) Central part
B) Left side
C) Right side
170 Photo-etching brass
A) Taffrail
B) Bounty nameplate
C) Windows
171 Left side gallery (metal)
172 Right side gallery (metal)
173 A-B Rails (right)
173 C-D Rails (left)
174 Headrails
175 Headrails
176 Headrails
177 A-B Knees
177 C-D Knees
178 Knee heads
 180 Catheads (right)
A) Sides 0,5x4 mm. walnut
B) Body 4x4 mm. walnut
C) Pulleys (4850/04)
D) Pins (4136/10)
E) Eyebolts (4703)
181 Catheads (left) A-B-C-D-E
182 Thread 1 mm. (4124/10)
183 Blocks (4080/06)
184 Brass wire
185 Anchors (4015/50)
186 Thread for buoys 1 mm.(4124/10)
187 Buoys
188 Cathead bollard 4x4 mm. walnut
189 Culverin columns 3x3 mm. walnut
190 Copper band (2835/03)
191 Culverins (4150/03)
192 Cannons (4162)
193 Eyebolts (4703)
194 Rings (4000/03)
195 Blocks (4070/02)
196 Thread 1 mm. (4124/10)
197 Thread 0,5 mm. (4124/05)
198 Lanterns (4330/04)
199 Figure head (5613)
200 Heel 8 mm. (4395/08)
201 Heel 8 mm. (4395/08)
202 Heel 6 mm. (14395/06)

NOTE: Check the subsequent numbers In the List of materials for masting and rigging

LIST OF MATERIALS FOR MASTING

MAIN MAST 203 Lower mast mm. 8 walnut
204 Topmast mm. 6 walnut
204 Topgallant mast mm. 4 walnut
FORE MAST 206 Lower mm. 8 walnut
207 Foretop mm.6 walnut
208 Topgallant mm.4 walnut
MIZZEN MAST 209 Lower mm.6 walnut
210 Top mm.4 walnut
MAST ACCESSORIES
211 Cheeks 2 mm.thick
212 Cheeks (fore)
213 Trestle-trees, top
214 Trestle-trees (fore), top
215 Trestle-trees
216 Cross-bars 2x2 mm. walnut
217 Pillows 2x2 mm. walnut
218 Platform (top) 1mm thick Main Mast
219 Platform 1 mm.thick Fore Mast
220 Platform 1 mm.thick Mizzen Mast
221 Top arch 1x2 mm walnut
222 Cleats 1x1 mm.walnut
223 Mast spacer 1x2 mm.walnut
224 Eyebolts (4703)
225 Rings (4000/04)
226 Rail columns 2x2 mm.walnut
227 Banister 1x5 mm. beechwood
228 Planking 1x3 mm.beechwood
229 Cap (large)
230 Cap
231 Acorns (4780/04)
232 Lashing thread black (4126/10)
233 Pin rack (4107)
BOWSPRIT
234 Bowsprit 8 mm. walnut
 235 Jib boom 4 mm. walnut
236 Bowsprit cheeks
YARDS
237 Main 6 mm. walnut
238 Top 4 mm. walnut
239 Topgallant 3 mm. walnut
240 Mizzen 4 mm. walnut
241 Mizzen topsail 3 mm. walnut
242 Gaff 4 mm. walnut
243 Fore main 6 mm. walnut
234 Foretop 4 mm. walnut
235 Topgallant 3 mm. walnut
236 Studding-sail outrigger 2 mm.walnut
237 Spritsail 4 mm. walnut
YARD ACCESSORIES
238 Caff parrels (4383/06)
239 Eyebolts (4703)
240 Bumpkin guides (2835/03)
241 Parrels for trucks (4384/10)
242 Parrels with trucks (4384/06)
243 Rope for footrope (4124/05)
244 Thread for slings (4124/10)
245 Thread for bowsprit gammoning (4126/10)
246
PLANS TRANSLATION
DESIGN 2
FIG.1 Attaching the riggings to the deck
All technical designs are in full scale
P = Beginning rigging N.
> = Passage rigging N.
. . . = End rigging N.
(Tie the rigging to a pin-rail or cleat
MIZZEN MAST PIN RACK
(attach right and left riggings)
NOTE: The channels are not Illustrated for
greater graphic clarity.
FIG.2 MAIN MAST PIN RACK FIG.3 FORE MAST PIN
RACK FIG.4 BULWARK (internal view)
MASTING
Follow drawings and instructions on Design 3.
Construct the masts using the correct length for each, and taper them In the given manner.
The upper parts of the main, lower, and top masts finish with a square section at the masthead. Apply
t he accessories (ex. lashings, block s, etc.) bef ore assembling the various parts of the masts and
yards. Make sure the masts and yards are inclined correctly with respect to the deck and that the tops
and the caps are parallel to the waterline. Position the masts and yards on the deck following the
sequence given for mounting of the shrouds (see instructions for the rigging); glue the caps only
after fixing the shrouds. Follow the sequence given in the figures to continue assembling the pieces.
Read well all notes and designs. To position bases 198, 199, 200, modify accurately the holes in the
deck by inserting the masts and determining the exact position of the bases.

FIC.1 MASTS AND YARDS

Mizzen Mast
Fore Mast
Main Mast
FIG.2 LIST OF SAILS
MAIN MAST 276 Main Sail
277 Top Sail
278 Fore topgallant Sail
FORE MAST 279 Main Sail
280 Fore topsail
281 Fore topgallant Sail
MIZZEN MAST 282 Mizzen topsail
283 Caff-Sail
JIBS 284 Jib
 285 Flying jib
286 Fore staysail
BOWSPRIT 287 Spritsail
288 Set of flags
FIG.3 Positioning the cheeks
FIG.4 Construction of the pillows
FIG.5 Positioning the crosstrees bars
FIG.6 Masthead rigging
FIG.7 Positioning the holes and cleats
FIG.8 Positioning the cleats
FIG.9 Rail column joints
FIG. 10 Construction of the top arch
FIG. 11 Mizzen top FIG.12 Fore top FIG. 13 Main top
FIG.14 MAIN MAST
Through hole
Masthead
Make the holes in the caps
and insert the shortened eyebolts
Guardrail
FIG. 15 FORE MAST
Guardrail
FIG. 16 MIZZEN MAST
Through hole
Guardrail
FIG.17 MIZZEN YARDS
Mizzen topsail
Mizzen
Gaff
FIG. 18 Construction and mounting of bumpkins
FIG. 19 PARRELS (Yards)
251 Parrels for yards 237 and 243
252 Parrels for yards 238 and 244
FIG.20 FORE YARDS
Topgallant - Halyard hook
Foretop
Fore main
FIG.21 MAIN YARDS
Topgallant - Halyard hook
Top
Main (Note:Positioned for example)
FIG.22 BOWSPRIT
Bowsprit
Jib boom
Spritsail

To complete the riggings you can add the crowfeet and some winding line to the
stays, as well as some reverse riggings as shown.
REVERSE RIGGINGS CROWFEET (1 x top) DEADEYE (mm.2x2)
WINDING LINE SEPARATOR (mm.2x2)

DESIGN 4
Stern post and rudder
1 mm. thick
HULL STRUCTURE
All technical designs are In full scale KEEL AND CUTWATER
Sand lateral blocks 23 to 32 following
the order outlined by the line of the frames.
MAKE FROM 2x18x45 mm. wooden strips
2 mm. Thick
1 mm. Thick
 Shape pieces using strips (4x4 mm) as shown. Remove excess material with a
file and sand with fine sandpaper.
CUTWATER RUDDER STERN POST