SEDIMENTOLOGY AND GEOMORPHOLOGY ANALYSIS OF COASTAL

AREAS OF PANTAI PENARIK, TERENGGANU TRANSECT C:

MONSOONAL EFFECT ON THE COASTAL AREA

Muhammad Nazrin Bin Nor Kadim

Bachelor of Technology (Hons) Petroleum Geoscience
Universiti Teknologi Petronas
Tronoh, Perak Darul Ridzuan
Email: nazrin_kan@yahoo.com

Abstract The Coastline of Terengganu, including
Pantai Penarik, is facing South China Sea and exposed
with naturally high wave activity. The high wind during
northeast monsoon has caused the coastline experience
greater wave action thus changing the transport sediment
and may lead to coastal erosion. Several methods are used
to identify the effect of monsoonal change to the beach.
Total station is used to collect data on coordinate and
elevation of the beach and generate beach profile to
observe the changes on the beach morphology before and
after monsoon. Sediment sample is collected and proceed
with lab analysis by dry sieving method to identify the
sediment distribution of the area and detect any changes
on the sediment distribution caused by monsoonal change.
The sediment texture is also viewed to identify the
monsoon effect on the beach sediment. It can be observed
that the beach slope becomes less steep and lower elevation
after monsoon. This shows that the beach has been eroded
by high wave action during monsoon. There is more
sediment with coarse material found after monsoon season
which support that the wave energy is higher during the
monsoon period. The sediment texture mostly changes
from subangular and low sphericity to subrounded and
high sphericity. It shows that the wave action during
northeast monsoon is strong enough to change the
sediment texture during the monsoon period.
by northeast monsoon generally because of its location at
eastern belt of Peninsular Malaysia and the monsoon also
brings more rainfall and high wind to the area. This condition
contributes to greater wave action and may cause rapid
changes on beach sediment, leading to coastal erosion.
Coastal erosion is a breakdown of land and removal
of beach caused by wave and tides. It is happening to the
Terengganu coastline, where the coastal erosion affects the
populated land near the beach. The speculation concerning the
cause of coastal erosion is ranging from mans interference to
the natural causes such as the monsoon season. The area most
affected by coastal erosion within the Terengganu coastline is
the Kuala Terengganu beach, which includes beaches at
Universiti Malaysia Terengganu (UMT) and Sultan Mahmud
Airport. There has been claim that the construction of the
airport extension and wavebreaker had made the erosion
worsen.
Pantai Penarik is located in the Terengganu coastline,
35km north from the Kuala Terengganu beach. As observed
from the aerial view, the coastal erosion has extended to the
northern part of the Kuala Terengganu beach. It is fear that the
erosion may extended as far as to the Pantai Penarik.
1.2 PROBLEM STATEMENT

Keywords- Northeast monsoon, coastal erosion.
INTRODUCTION
1.1 BACKGROUND
The coastline of Terengganu is located at the East
Coast of Peninsular Malaysia. It is facing South China Sea,
which having naturally high wave activity. The wave activity
controls the sediment transportation of the beach. However,
monsoonal changes may affect the sediment transportation
because it brings high wind activity and heavy rainfall.
Terengganu coastline faces two monsoon season, the
southwest monsoon (May to September) and the northeast
monsoon (October to March). The coastline is more affected
Pantai Penarik located in the Terengganu Coastline which
experience northeast monsoon. The monsoon may change the
sediment transportation within the area caused by higher wave
action dragging sediments away from the beach to the
offshore. The effect of coastal erosion can already be seen at
the area, at which the beach is severely eroded, causing the
land near it to fail and damages the public facility. Some part
of the area had been added with coastal protection such as
geotextile to prevent further erosion.
1.3 OBJECTIVE
The main objective of the study is to observe coastal
changes using Total Station Method before and after northeast
monsoon season. It is done in order to understand the effects
of monsoon season to the coastal area.
1.4 SCOPE OF STUDY
The study is carried out at Pantai Penarik, Setiu,
Terengganu. It is approximately 35 kilometers north of Kuala
Terengganu. The study is made on 1 kilometer length along
the beach with its wide follows the beach morphology. There
will be 10 sections within the 1 kilometer length (figure 1).
Each section is separated by 100 meters interval. 3 sediment
samples are collected at every section, where the sample is
collected base on the tidal zone which are low tide, mid tide
and high tide.
Figure 1: Field map of study area showing geotextile and 10 sections with
100m interval
LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 GENERAL GEOLOGY OF TERENGGANU
COASTLINE
The study area is within the area of Cenozoic Stratigraphy.
Hutchison and Tan [1] stated that the Cenozoic Stratigraphy at
North Terengganu and Kelantan has linear stretches of sandy
beach whose continuity is interrupted by the river mouths and
fronting the coastal plain. The coastal plain is covered by a
series of parallel, low ridges consisting of beach sands and
separated by swales with marine clay. The beach sand is likely
in Matang Gelugor Member. Hutchison and Tan [1] defined
Matang Gelugor Member as comprising gravel, sand and
sandy clay deposited in littoral and marine environment. The
presence of hills around Kampung Bari Kecil, which located
in between of Bukit Merang and Kampung Penarik, gave rise
to broad sand bodies in the deltas of Sungai Chalok and
Sungai Bari. The sand from the beach ridges is ranging from
moderately sorted gravelly coarse sand to poorly sorted, silty,
very fine sand. The swales consist of greyish green marine
sandy clay, silt and peat.
2.2 SOUTH CHINA SEA AND NORTHEAST
MONSOON
East Coast of Peninsular Malaysia is facing the South
China Sea. South China Sea experiencing naturally high wave
energy [2]. The seas internal wave is very large and visible
from space [3]. The waves draw initial energy from tidal
forces and grow as they travel west across the sea. The energy
released is virtually invisible on the surface. The South China
Sea also creates tropical climate variability to the East Coast
of Peninsular Malaysia [4]. The coast is exposed with the
northeast and southwest monsoon season. The northeast
monsoon wind brings great impact on the wave energy at the
coastline. It caused extreme rainfall and winds over the South
China Sea. The strong waves during a monsoon storm can
affect and modify erosion and coastal zone [5].
2.3 COASTAL EROSION
The place where ocean meets land is called shore,
while a coast is the larger zone of the shore. Coastal erosion is
natural breakdown and removal of rocks and soil along the
coastline. The wave action caused the erosion and long-term
losses of sediments and rocks. High wind activity will increase
the wave action on the coast and speed-up the erosion process.
Coastline changes their shape and size from time to time as a
response to waves, currents and tides [6]. Human activity such
as land reclamation can also affect the coastal erosion. The
coastal erosion activity occurs when the sand is washed off
from coastline to the sea, and the coastline become smaller.
The erosion is accelerated by the period of heavy rain as the
sediments are swept into the sea by heavy runoff from a
stream. The storm generated from heavy rain also increases
the wave activity at the beach and thus accelerate the erosion.
Woodroffe [7] mentioned that beach erosion might also
occur when a littoral cell no longer receives the sediment to
which its budget is adjusted. The extension of Kuala
Terengganu Airport was responsible in generation of two
separately and distinguishes sediment cells [1]. These cells
explain the changes in beach morphology. The large waves
that batter the coastline during northeast monsoon increase the
erosion [8]. The stronger and larger northeast monsoon waves
can suspend and carry away finer beach sediment.
2.3 GRAIN SIZE DISTRIBUTION ANALYSIS
Grain size distribution has been widely used by
sedimentologists to elucidate transport dynamics [9]. Grain
size distribution of sediment is influenced by the source
material, sand availability and transportation distances.
Moreover, difference in grain size distribution characteristics
of sediments are closely related to the sediment morphology,
where the transportation of sediment at beach is controlled by
longshore drift. The size of sediment is recorded using the
term coarse, medium or fine. The sediment sample is collected
at the low tide, mid tide and high tide. The dry sieving method
is used to classify the sediment and explain the transport
dynamic of certain area [6]. This is the most commonly used
method of determining particle size. The sedimentary grain
size data is then used in order to get mean, sorting, skewness
and kurtosis values.
2.3 GRAIN SIZE TEXTURE ANALYSIS
Texture refers to properties of sediment such as
shape, angularity and sorting [10]. Well sorted sediment is
sediment which the grains are all having about similar size,
while poorly sorted sediment has a mixture of grains sizes.
The shape of the grain is a measure of its sphericity. The
grains may be spherical, elongated or flattened. The particle
roundness can be referred to the grain smoothness. Grains can
be rounded, subangular or angular. These textures of the
grains can be identified by observing under the thin-section.
METHODOLOGY
60 sediment samples within the 1km beach are taken
during fieldwork before monsoon and after monsoon.
Throughout the area of study, field observations, sample
collection and beach profiling are undertaken. 12 samples
were made into thin sections.
3.1 DESK STUDY
Desk study is performed by reviewing all relevant
documents including recent topography map, geological
reports, journals, various studies done in the same area and
any other references. These documents will help in identify
the condition of the area and gather necessary information that
may help in the studies. The information can be used during
fieldwork and data analysis in the lab.
3.2 FIELDWORK AND DATA ACQUISITION
The study area is about 1 kilometer along the beach at
Pantai Penarik, Terengganu. There are a total of 10 sections
with 100 meters interval between each other. The fieldwork is
necessary to produce a field map of the study area. The data
such as Global Positioning System (GPS) reading, sediment
samples, total station data and other necessary information are
collected during the fieldwork. The equipment used at the
study area is TOPCON Total Station, tripod stand, prism, rod,
compass, GARMIN GPSMAP, scoop and sample bag. There
are two teams involve in the project, one team gathers total
station data while the other team collect sediment samples.
The sediment samples need to be processed in the lab before
the data can be acquired.
3.3 BEACH PROFILING USING TOTAL STATION
Beach profile survey is performed using total station at all
of the 10 transect. Each transect is separated at the interval of
100 meters. The profile started at the interval of the beach
with the land, and ended at the 0.5 meter water depth. First,
the total station is set-up with corrected bearing. GPS reading
is taken at the center point, where the total station is set-up,
and is marked as occupied point. The height where the total
station is placed is also recorded. Then, rod is set-up with
prism and the height of rod is set to 1.48m. The rod is put at
the starting point, which is at interval of the beach with land.
Two individuals involve in collecting beach profile data; one
controls the total station and one hold the rod. The total station
recorded coordinate and elevation of a point in form of x, y
and z data, at the point where the rod is placed. Then, the
beach profile is generated from the x, y, z data by calculating
distance and elevation of the beach. The profile is made and
compared with before and after the northeast monsoon season.
3.3 DRY SIEVING METHOD
Dry sieving method is used for grain size analysis.
Three sediment samples are collected at each section, where
the sediment is taken at low tide, mid tide and high tide (figure
8). The sample is stored into a plastic bag and transferred to
the lab. All the impurities from the sediment were removed
and it is then been dried in an oven at a temperature of 105C
for overnight. The dried sediment is transferred to a stacked
series of sieve and shaken using mechanical shaker for 5
minutes. The material that trapped in each sieve is then been
weighed and recorded. The weight is then calculated using
formula as suggested by Folk and Ward [11].
3.3 SEDIMENT TEXTURE ANALYSIS BY THIN
SECTION
The sediment sample needs to be hardened before
making the thin section. It can be hardened by using a mixture
of resin and hardener. Firstly, the sediment sample is put into
a small plastic cup until it is half-full. Next, a mixture of resin
and hardener is added into the cup. Then, the cup filled with
the mixture is left in the lab for a day to let it hardened. The
hardened sediment is then been cut and polish to make a thin
section (figure 11). The thin section is then be put under a
microscope to analyze the sediment texture.
RESULT AND DISCUSSION
4.1 BEACH PROFILE
The result for beach profile shows that there are
significant changes on the beach after monsoon season. The
beach slope mostly becomes less steep with lower elevation
after monsoon season. At some section, a small dune is
formed at the mid tide zone of the beach. This follows by high
angle slope with loose sand that easy to fail. The beach profile
result is shown with comparison of the profile for before
monsoon and after monsoon season. At 0m or first section
interval, the slope of the beach becomes steeper after the
500 meter
monsoon season (figure 2). This shows that higher wind and 10
wave activity caused by the monsoon had dragged more
sediment from the beach to the sea. For 100m, there is no
significant changes on the morphology of the beach other than 5
the beach slope become less steep (figure 3).
0
0 10 20 30 40

Elevation 0 meter Before monsoon After monsoon

10 Figure 4: Comparison of beach profile before and after monsoon at 500m

0
0 10 20 30 40 1000 meter
Before monsoon After monsoon 15
10
Figure 2: Comparison of beach profile before and after monsoon at 0m
5
0
0 10 20 30 40
100 meter Before monsoon After monsoon
10
Figure 5: Comparison of beach profile before and after monsoon at 1000m
5
0 4.1.2 Digital Elevation Model (DEM)
0 10 20 30 40
Besides beach profiling, the total station data can also be
Before monsoon After monsoon used to produce Digital Elevation Model (DEM). DEM
represents the elevation of the area. It can be observed that
Figure 3: Comparison of beach profile before and after monsoon at 100m high elevation area has been decrease after monsoon season
(figure 6 & 7).
There is a small dune formed at mid tide zone of 500m
after monsoon season which shows that high wave energy had
battered the beach caused by the monsoon wind (figure 4).
There is not many changes that can be observed at 1000m
except it becomes lower elevation after monsoon season
(figure 5).

Figure 6: DEM before monsoon


Figure 7: DEM after monsoon
From the results, it can be stated that the northeast
monsoon season has affected the beach morphology, in terms
of its slope shape and elevation. Most of the beach slope
within the area has become less steep and has decreased in
elevation after monsoon season. The southern part of the 1km
beach has the highest elevation within the area, though it did
not having much difference when comparing its elevation and
steepness before and after monsoon season. This may be due
to the geotextile that has been added at the boundary between
beach and land at the southern part of the beach. The
geotextile might have prevented the high wave activity to drag
sediment away and erode the beach. However, the geotextile
may also have affected the area near it in an unwanted way,
where the area seems to experience severe erosion. It can be
observed at the middle section of 1km beach, north of the
geotextile that the area which is very near to geotextile is not
protected by it. Instead, it has been experience greater erosion
than the other part of the beach.
4.2 SEDIMENT GRAIN SIZE ANALYSIS
The analysis of the sediment sample is done based on Folk
and Ward (1957) method. 60 sediment samples were collected
during fieldwork, the first 30 samples collected before
monsoon season while the other 30 samples collected after the
monsoon. The result is compared between the tidal zones and
presented in mean, sorting, skewness and kurtosis
4.2.1 Mean Size
Mean size is the average particle size of a sediment
sample. It is useful to classify the sediment sample into its
grain size characterization, whether it is fine grain or coarse
grain. The result from grain size analysis shows that mid tide
zone has the finest grain compared to the other zone. When
comparing the result with before and after monsoon season, it
can be observe that almost all mean size sediment of the area
become finer after monsoon season (table 1). At the low tide
zone, previously mean size sediment of coarse sand has
become moderate sand after monsoon. In average, the mean
size sediment in the area is mostly moderate sand with
exception at low tide zone, where it is coarse sand before
monsoon.
Table 1: Comparison of mean size before and after monsoon season
4.3.2 Standard Deviation (Sorting)
The value of standard deviation calculated can be
used to measure the degree of sorting of a sediment. There has
been significant difference for the sediment sorting when
comparing before and after monsoon season. The sediment
has become more poorly sorted after the monsoon (table 2).
Much of the changes can be seen at low tide zone, where the
sediment sorting change from moderately sorted to poor
sorted. Averagely, the sediment sorting within the area is
mostly moderate sorted.
Table 2: Comparison on sediment sorting before and after monsoon
4.2.3 Skewness
Skewness is the degree of asymmetry of a frequency
or cumulative curve, which determines the tendency of the
data to spread preferentially to one side of the curve. The data
of a curve may distribute symmetrically, positively skewed or
negatively skewed. Positively skewed usually has more
proportion of finer material, thus sometimes term as fine-
skewed, while negatively skewed has more proportion of
coarser material, thus can be term as coarse-skewed. The
result shows that sediment in the area has become more
coarse-skewed after monsoon season (table 3). Most changes
can be seen at low tide zone, where the area dominated with
fine-skewed before monsoon but becoming coarse-skewed
after monsoon. Averagely, coarse-skewed can be found in
most areas within the beach.
Table 3: Comparison on skewness before and after monsoon season
4.2.4 Kurtosis
Kurtosis measure the peakedness of the distribution data
curves. It represent by the shape of a distribution curve,
whether it is platykurtic (excessively flat), mesokurtic (normal
bell-curve) or leptokurtic (excessively peaked). High tide zone
is predominantly platykurtic (table 4). Platykurtic usually
associates with mature sediment. Change in the kurtosis
before and after monsoon season shows that sediment
distribution has been changed by the monsoon effect. In
average, mid tide zone has most affected by monsoon in its
kurtosis curve as it change from mesokurtic to leptokurtic.
Table 4: Comparison of kurtosis before and after monsoon season
Based on the result gathered from grain size analysis, the
mean size for most of the area has become finer after monsoon
season. It can better observe at low tide zone, where most of
coarse sand area has become moderate sand. Though, the
mean size only shows the average grain size of sediment for
the respective area and does not reflect the real proportion of
the sediment within the area. Higher wave activity during
monsoon season should results in coarser grain sediment
found at the beach after the monsoon ends. This can be prove
by skewness data, where coarse-skewed is more dominant
within the beach after monsoon season. The coarse-skewed
represent more proportion of coarse material, thus showing
that higher wave energy had drag high volume of finer
sediment from the beach to the sea. The sediment sorting
predominantly moderate sorted throughout the 1km beach,
except at low tide where the sediment becomes poorly sorted
after monsoon season. This shows that the monsoon had
affected the sediment distribution of the beach. Moreover, it is
supported by kurtosis data, where variety of kurtosis changes
can be seen at low tide and mid tide zone after monsoon
season. Most kurtosis change from platykurtic to leptokurtic,
which suggest that the area is exposed with high energy during
monsoon as the leptokurtic is usually represent by fluvial
environment where sediment deposition and accretion changes
frequently.
4.3 SEDIMENT TEXTURE ANALYSIS
Texture analysis is done by looking at the sediment thin
section trough microscope. The analysis is not focused on the
mineral type of the sediment, as it is mainly quartz and may
not have any changes in its mineral type when comparing
before and after monsoon. Instead, it is done to analyze the
physical appearance of the mineral, whether there are any
changes after monsoon season. The result shows that the
particle becomes more rounded and high sphericity after
monsoon (table 5).
Table 5: Thin section comparison by tidal zone and monsoonal change at
Section 4
 Based on sediment texture analysis, the sediment
texture has change from mostly subangular and low sphericity
to subrounded and high sphericity. It shows that the wave
energy is higher during monsoon season and affects the
sediment on the beach. Rounded and sphere sediment grain
usually related to sediment that constantly transported in a
high energy environment which the grain experience frequent
abrasion and eventually results in rounding off the sharp
corner of the grain. If the grain can change from angular and
low sphericity to rounded and high sphericity after monsoon
season, it shows that the wave energy is too great that it can
change the sediment texture within the period of monsoonal
change. It also gives indication that the high wave activity that
battered the beach during monsoon season may change and
erode the beach as it can change the sediment texture.
CONCLUSION
The northeast monsoon, usually associate with high wind
activity and heavy rainfall, is causing greater wave activity at
the coastline of Terengganu that can change the sediment
transportation of the area and may lead to coastal erosion. It
can be seen at Pantai Penarik, Terengganu, where the
monsoon season has change the beach morphology and
sediment. Based on the comparison of the beach profile
between before monsoon and after monsoon, the beach has
become less steep and lower elevation after the monsoon
season. Small dune has also formed at mid tide zone of some
part of the beach. This shows that the high wave activity has
drag more sediment from the beach to offshore. This
consequence could lead to coastal erosion of the beach.
It can also be observe that the southern part of the
beach has been added with geotextile, a coastal protection
material, to prevent further erosion of the beach. The
geotextile helps in preventing the wave from dragging beach
sediment to the sea. However, the geotextile also affects the
area near it as it can be seen that the middle part of the 1km
beach is the area that most affected by erosion. Although the
area is located near the geotextile, but the area is not protected
by it.
Significant changes also can be seen on the sediment
distribution of the beach. This usually related to the
transportation of sediment in the area. It is observed that the
mean size sediment of the beach has become finer after
monsoon season. The mean size has change from coarse sand
to medium sand, especially at low tide zone. Though, the
mean size is only represents the average size of the sediment
in an area but does not represent the real distribution of the
sediment size. The sediment size distribution can also be
evaluated with skewness data. It is found that the beach has
more coarse-skewed curve after monsoon season which
indicates that there are more coarse material within the area
after monsoon. It can be relate with the change in sediment
transport by high wave energy during monsoon season. The
sediment sorting is also affected by the monsoon, with some
had change in sediment sorting from moderately sorted to
poorly sorted. The kurtosis of the sediment also gives some
input on the sediment transportation as some part of the area
having kurtosis change from mesokurtic to leptokurtic after
monsoon season. Leptokurtic usually associates with high
energy environment thus showing that the area is exposed
with high wave energy during monsoon.
The analysis of sediment texture also has some
significant change when comparing between before monsoon
season and after monsoon season. Most of the sediment is
change from subangular and low sphericity to subrounded and
high sphericity after monsoon. This indicates that the wave
energy on monsoon season is high that it can affect the
sediment texture within the monsoon period. Microfractures
can be observed at some sediment grain, which it may have
formed because of the monsoonal change effect on the
sediment.
The wave energy that battered Pantai Penarik during
monsoon season is strong enough to change the morphology
and sediment of the beach. It is afraid that the strong wave
action could lead to severe coastal erosion, since there has
already been small erosion occurs in the area that damage the
public facility.
RECOMMENDATION
Further action can be done to prevent severe erosion occur
at the area such as by adding coastal protection. Any coastal
protection material or mitigation of the beach that wanted to
added need to be planned carefully so that it does not impact
or causing disturbance in sediment transport of other location.
For the project improvement, GIS data or aerial images of the
study area in specific period of time can greatly help in
monitoring the coastal erosion of the area. If there is
availability on the image of every monsoonal change for the
area, the changes on the beach after monsoon season can be
observe with more detail.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
First and foremost, all praise to Allah for his blessing and the
strength granted, I have successfully finished the Final Year
Project with the title Sedimentology and Geomorphology
Analysis of Coastal Area along Pantai Penarik, Terengganu
Transect C: Monsoonal Effects on Coastal Area.
My deepest gratitude is dedicated to Mr. Mohamad
Shaufi bin Sokiman, my supervisor. His guidance and advice
throughout the whole project has enlightened me on how to do
a research and he has shared his knowledge on technical
matter to help me finish this project.I would also like to thank
the Final Year Project coordinator for the guidance and advice
throughout the whole project. My thanks is also dedicated to
my classmate, lab technician, and fellow members of the
project that has spent time, thought and energy in making this
project a success.I would also like to acknowledge the internal
and external examiner for all the comments, and advice. All of
these have taught me a lot about how to improvise my
research.
[10] Sand grain size analysis. [Online]. Available:
http://faculty.une.edu/cas/szeeman/oce/lab/
Finally, I must express my very profound gratitude to my
sediment_analysis.pdf
parents and family for providing me with unfailing support
and continuous encouragement throughout my years of study
[11] R. L. Folk and W. C. Ward, Brazos River bar: a study in
and through the process of researching and writing this thesis.
the significance of grain size parameters. Journal of
This accomplishment would not have been possible without
Sedimentary Petrology 27:326, 1957.
them. Thank you.

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