Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Bars Pubs Clubs Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Bucharest
April - May 2017

Art Safari
Romanias biggest festival
of art and urban culture

N104
N106 - 15.00 lei
 Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Whats On 6
Your complete guide to events in Bucharest

Calea Victoriei 12
Walk Bucharests most famous street

Restaurants 16
The citys best restaurants

Cafs 30
Coffee, tea, cakes and cocktails

Nightlife 34
Bars, pubs and clubs

Sightseeing 44
Essential Bucharest

Jewish Bucharest 60
Amazingly, much has survived

Shopping 62
Souvenirs, local designers and local wine

Getting Around 71
How to avoid dodgy taxis, and much else

Maps 78-81
Street register 82

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 3

 Foreword
On May 1st, 1992, the first In Your Pocket guide appeared
on the streets of Vilnius, capital of the newly independent
Baltic state of Lithuania. A photo of a statue of Lenin being
removed from a plinth in front of the Lithuanian parliament
adorned the front cover, while an ad for Marlboro cigarettes
filled the back page. At the time, Vilnius had no telephone
directory, and even maps of the city were treated as closely E S S InEYour
Bucharest N Pocket
TI A L
guarded state secrets. The small team which put together C Romania
IYP I T Y SrlG U I D E S
that first guide (comprised of three Belgian brothers and a Str. Jiului 93, Ap. 14
German journalist) even had to travel to Minsk in Belarus to Bucuresti, Sector 1
Romania
get the first issue printed: no printer in Lithuania could do it. Tel. (+4) 0372 73 02 64
And yet the four had a dream: to cover the world with loca- bucharest@inyourpocket.com
lly produced city guides. Today, 25 years on, In Your Pocket is
bigger than ever. With guides in more than 100 cities from ISSN 1454-5276 IYP Romania Srl. Printed at MEGAPress SA,
Bucharest (tel. (+4) 021 461 08 08/09). Published six times per
the Dutch Caribbean to the Gold Coast of Australia millions year, up to 20,000 copies produced each issue. Bucharest In
of travellers use our guides every day. Millions more use our Your Pocket is a member of the Romanian Audit Bureau of
content digitally, either online at inyourpocket.com or via Circulation (BRAT).
our impressive smartphone apps. Thanks for being one of
them. Without our readers, we would never have made it Editorial
Editor Craig Turp All Photography IYP Romania Srl or
this far. Now, go enjoy Bucharest! Dreamstime unless otherwise stated. Cover illustration by and
Andreea Dobrin Dinu.

Sales
To contact a member of our sales team send an email to the
address bucharest@inyourpocket.com, or call our office and
ask for the sales department.

COVER STORY
A specially commissioned piece for BIYP from the or-
ganisers of Art Safari 2017, which takes place from May
19 to June 18. See page 8. Illustration by and Andreea
Dobrin Dinu.
Copyright notice
Text, photos copyright IYP Romania Srl 1999-2017 unless
otherwise stated. All rights reserved. No part of this publica-
tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of its review, without written permission from the
copyright owner. Maps are copyright OSM Contributors. The
trademark In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In
Your Pocket (Bernadinu g. 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5)
212 29 76).

From small acorns...

In 1992 a small team published the rst
In Your Pocket guide to Vilnius in Lithuania. ONLINE
25 years on In Your Pocket now covers
over 100 cities throughout the world
in print, online and on mobile reaching
over 10 million readers annually.

PRINT MOBILE
If youd like to join our group of independent local
publishers wed love to hear from you. Drop us a line at
joinus@inyourpocket.com

4 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Whats On
03.04 20:00
ELIAS NARDI GROUP FEAT. DANIELE DI
BONAVENTURA
Accompanied by an outstanding band, consisting of Dan-
iele Di Bonaventura, Didier Franois, Nazanin Piri and Carlo
La Manna, Elias Nardi plays fluid, oneiric music mixing jazz
nouveaux and Arabic rhythms.QJ13, Control Club, Str.
Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78
61, 35 lei.
05.04 21:30 VAMA
Perhaps the best-known Romanian band of the past 20
years, previously known as Vama Veche. This particular
gig is acoustic.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel.
(+4) 021 206 62 61, 55 lei.
06.04 21:30
CELELALTE CUVINTE
One of the longest-running Romanian rock bands still per-
forming.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
021 206 62 61, 45-60 lei.
06.04 20:00 APOCALYPTICA
A Finnish string quartet play the music of Metallica. No,
really!QJ12, Sala Palatului, Piata Palatului (Str. Ion
Campineanu), 99-230 lei.
07.04 21:00 TRAVKA
Alternative Romanian act, performing an electro-acoustic
set.QM3, Fratelli, Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62
22, 40 lei.
07.04 21:00
GOLAN
Three-piece band based in Bucharest. A blend of eclectic
harmonies, live instruments, sampling and DJing.QI20,
Arenele Romane, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol),
MEroii Revolutiei, 45 lei.
6 Bucharest In Your Pocket
Vama
08.04, 09.04, 20.04 18:30 A MASKED BALL
Verdis opera in three acts. Directed by Grischa Asagaroff
and conducted by Marcello Mottadelli.QG13, Roma
nian National Opera (ONB), B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, 15-120 lei.
08.04 22:00 SUBCARPATI
Probably Romanias best hip-hop outfit. Over-18s only.
QI20, Arenele Romane, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26 (Par
cul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei, 40 lei.
08.04 20:00 KINGS ON ICE
Some of the biggest names in ice skating, led by Evgeni
Plushenko, perform special routines to the music of Edvin
Marton. Adelina Sotnikova, Brian Joubert and Tom Verner
are just three of the skaters who will feature.QSala Poliva
lenta, B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretului/ Calea Piscului
10), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01, 125-495 lei.
09.04, 20.04 18:30 A MASKED BALL
Verdis opera in three acts. Directed by Grischa Asagaroff
and conducted by Marcello Mottadelli.QG13, Roma
nian National Opera (ONB), B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, 15-120 lei.
12.04 21:30 KEMPES
Romanian rock band.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff
32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 50-75 lei.
13.04 21:30 DELIA
Probably the hottest Romanian dance act of the mo-
ment. In just about every way.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos.
Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 69-150 lei.
13.04 20:00 SOMI
Nigerian jazz hybrid singer and songwriter.QG12, Sala
Radio, Str. Berthelot 60-64, tel. (+4) 021 314 77 70, 105-
185 lei.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Whats On
19.04 21:30 VITA DE VIE
Legendary Romanian rock band play an acoustic set at the
Hard Rock Cafe.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32,
tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 40-65 lei.
Two Castles in One Day
Day Trip from Bucharest to Peles Castle
20.04 18:30 A MASKED BALL and Bran Dracula's Castle in Transylvania
Verdis opera in three acts. Directed by Grischa Asagaroff
and conducted by Marcello Mottadelli.QG13, Roma
nian National Opera (ONB), B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, 15-120 lei.

20.04 21:30 THE MOTANS

Moldovan pop/rock band.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos.
Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 39-79 lei. 75 daily
Euro
/adult

in the departure
20.04, 21.04 20:00 PINK MARTINI mornin
g
"2nd Best Innovative Incoming Tour Program",
Huge (and hugely popular) American ensemble fusing Top Hotel Awards 2016
jazz, pop, lounge and even classical elements.QJ12, Sala
Palatului, Piata Palatului (Str. Ion Campineanu), 120-280 Highlights: Peles Castle, Bran (Dracula's castle), walking
lei. tour of Brasov downtown (you will see the Council Square,
the Council Tower, the Black Church, the Rope Street)
20.04 20:00 PARKWAY DRIVE Included: Transportation, Guide services in English**
and Entrance fees
Australian metalcore band from Byron Bay, New South **Italian, Spanish and French audio guide - 5 Euros extra cost
Wales, formed in 2003.QI20, Arenele Romane, Str. Cuti (mandatory to book in advance)
tul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei, 90 lei Do not miss other interesting adventures:
in advance, 110 lei on the door.
Experience Bulgaria The Real Dracula Tour
21.04 18:30 BAIADERA
Ballet in two acts by Ludwig Minkus, conducted by Iurie
Florea,QG13, Romanian National Opera (ONB), B-dul
Kogalniceanu 70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, 89 Euro
/adult * 79 Euro /adult *

12-80 lei. - full day tour - - full day tour -

Transylvania Break Half Day Bucharest City Tour
22.04 18:30 LA TRAVIATA
A new interpretation of Verdis classic.QG13, Roma
nian National Opera (ONB), B-dul Kogalniceanu 70-72,
MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, 12-80 lei. 199 Euro
/adult * 39 Euro /adult *
- 2 day tour - - half day tour -
23.04 18:30 ROMEO & JULIET
Tiberiu Soare conducts a new production of Sergei Pro-
kofievs classic, directed by Renato Zanella, the current "If you do one thing in Romania make this.
The scenery is breath taking and
artistic director of the Romanian National Ballet.QG13,
the total experience simply magical!"
Romanian National Opera (ONB), B-dul Kogalniceanu
Client's feedback on Tripadvisor October 14th, 2016
70-72, MEroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80, 12-80 lei.
For more details and for bookings:

TICKETS www.travelmakertours.com
+40735 525 710
Tickets for most of the events listed here can be pur- Visit us at our Info Point in Bucharest Old Town,
chased online at bilete.ro ro eventim.ro. Do not worry 77 Lipscani Street, 2nd floor
about waiting for tickets to be delivered: in most cases Use booking code BP01 when booking
you can simply print them yourself. You can also find and get the following discounts: 3 adults - 5% discount,
tickets for most events at the sale point of bilete.ro 4 or more adults - 8% discount.
which operates in the lobby of the Ibis Hotel at Gara de
Nord from 12:00-19:00 Monday-Thursday, 12:00-16:00
Friday. Opera and ballet tickets can be bought online
or from the opera box office (G13, B-dul Kogalniceanu
70-72, M Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 314 69 80).

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 7

 Whats On
24.04 20:00 GREGORY PORTER
American singer, songwriter, and actor. Won the Grammy
Award for Best Jazz Vocal Album in 2014 for Liquid Spirit
and in 2017 for Take Me to the Alley.QJ12, Sala Palatului,
Piata Palatului (Str. Ion Campineanu), 120-260 lei.
26.04 21:30 HORIA BRENCIU & THE HB
ORCHESTRA
Highly entertaining Romanian crooner and showman
who - together with his big band - belts out more than
decent renditions of Sinatra, Martin and Darin standards.
QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206
62 61, 100-140 lei.
28.04 22:30 CONEXIUNI
Romanian classic rock band, knocking around for well over
25 years.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
021 206 62 61, 40-50 lei.
29.04 20:00 NATALIA IMBRUGLIA
Australian-British singer-songwriter, model and actress.
QF2, Beraria H, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0725 34 53 45,
90-150 lei.
04.05 21:30 CARGO
Legendary Romanian rock band, founded in Timisoara in
1985.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, 60-90 lei.
CIRQUE DE SOLEIL
03.05, 04.05, 05.05, 06.05 (20:00)
07.05 (13:00)
CIRQUE DE SOLEIL: VAREKAI
Cirque de Soleils extravaganza comes to Bucharest
for a short run at Romexpo. The show begins with
the Greek myth of Icarus, picking up where the myth
leaves off, reimagining the story of what happened to
Icarus after he flew too close to the sun and fell from
the sky. In Varekai (which means, apropos, wherever
in the Roma language) rather than drowning in the sea
below him, Icarus lands in a lush forest full of exotic
creatures. Cheaper tickets for kids are available for the
matinee on Sunday May 7th.QD2, Romexpo, B-dul
Mrsti 65-67, tel. (+4) 021 207 70 00, 154-550 lei.
8 Bucharest In Your Pocket
ART SAFARI 2017
19.05 - 18.06 ART SAFARI
A month-long extravaganza of art, this year curated by
Wim Waelput, director of the Ghent Centre for Con-
temporary Art. Besides the central exhibition - which
features several hundred works of art from artists from
all over the world - the festival will once again try to
bring art into the public sphere via numerous guided
tours, childrens events, book launches, lectures and
presentations. This year's highlights include an exhibi-
tion dedicated to the life and work of Stefan Luchian,
the Romanian impressionist and post-impressionist
painter. A large number of Luchian's masterpieces
have been brought together from museums and pri-
vate collections across the globe.QJ13, Galeriile Kre
tulescu, Calea Victoriei 45, MUniversitate, www.
artsafari.ro. Open 12:00-21:00, Sat 12:00-24:00. Day
tickets cost 25 lei, while season tickets valid for the
whole event cost 45 lei. You can buy them online
at: ticket.artsafari.ro
05.05 - 07.05
EAST EUROPEAN COMIC CON 2017
Eastern Europes biggest pop-culture and sci-fi conven-
tion takes places for the fifth year running in Bucharest, at
the Romexpo complex. As usual, expect plenty of photo
ops with stars of popular TV shows, as well as merchandise
stands, exhibitions, cosplay, gaming, stand-up comedy,
music, talks and debates.QD2, Romexpo, B-dul Mrsti
65-67, tel. (+4) 021 207 70 00, 80 lei (Valid for all three
days), www.comic-con.ro.
06.05
THE MISSION: DIYNAMIC SHOWCASE
Four top DJs on the same bill: Solomun, Lehar, Musumeci
and Victor Stancov.QSala Polivalenta, B-dul Tineretului
1 (Parc Tineretului/Calea Piscului 10), MTineretului,
tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01, www.themission.ro.
06.05 23:00 JOAN OSBORNE
Popular American singer comes to the Hard Rock Cafe for
a late night session, singing the songs of Bob Dylan.QF3,
Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61,
100-150 lei.
08.05 20:00 MARC RIBOT
American free-jazz guitarist and composer. Performing
as part of Controls Jazz Nouveau sessions.QJ13, Control
Club, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0733 92 78 61, 50 lei.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
ROBERTOS LOVE FOR FOOD
ROBERTOS LOVE FOR FOOD
ROBERTOS LOVE FOR FOOD

ROBERTOS BRUNCH
ROBERTOS BRUNCH
ROBERTOS BRUNCH

ROBERTOS DOLCE VITA

ROBERTOS DOLCE VITA
ROBERTOS DOLCE VITA

ROBERTOS TERRACE
ROBERTOS TERRACE
ROBERTOS TERRACE

Robertos offers its clientele Italian cuisine at its best, thanks to our use
Robertos offers
of the its clientele
freshest Italian
seasonalItalian cuisine at its best,
ingredients thanks to our use
Robertos offers
of the its clientele
freshest cuisinecooked
seasonal ingredients cooked
to perfection.
at its best, thanks to our use
to perfection.
of the freshest seasonal ingredients cooked to perfection.
For reservations, please call +40 731 305 777
For reservations, please call +40 731 305 777
or email reservations@robertos.ro.
For reservations, please call +40 731 305 777
or email reservations@robertos.ro.
or email reservations@robertos.ro.

1-3 Episcopiei Street, Bucharest (entrance on Calea Victoriei)

1-3 Episcopiei Street, Bucharest (entrance on Calea Victoriei)
 Whats On
THE BIG BUCHAREST QUIZ
Every other Wednesday The Hub hosts Bucharests only
regular English-language Quiz Night. With Quizmas-
ter Marc Jenner in the chair, eight rounds of fiendishly
tough questions - and a music round - await teams of
up to six people. The Hub is the perfect venue for the
quiz, which over the past couple of years has become
one of the most popular regular events in the city. To
reserve a table for the quiz, email quiz@mojomusic.ro.
Proceeds go to Casa Ioana, a charity which works with
and provides shelter for the victims of domestic abuse.
Quiz dates in April: 5th and 19th; May: 3rd, 17th and
31st.QK15, Old City, Str. Selari 14, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0729 37 77 74, 10 lei. Starts 19:00.
10 Bucharest In Your Pocket
THE COLOR RUN
22.04 16:00 THE COLOR RUN
The Color Run is one of the most joyful and colourful
events of the year in the Romanian capital. The con-
cept is simple: thousands of people dressed in white
run a 5km course, getting sprayed with paints of all
colours every inch of the way. You can sign up before
the run using the events website, or on the day of the
event itself.QI16, Piata Constitutiei, Piata Constitu
tiei, MPiata Unirii, 80-180 lei, www.thecolorrun.ro/
locations/bucuresti.
11.05 21:30 VAMA
Perhaps the best-known Romanian band of the past 20
years, previously known as Vama Veche. Expect a mix of
light rock and melancholy. Very popular with locals who
like to be reminded of their youth.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe,
Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 55-90 lei, www.
vamamusic.ro.
12.05 21:30 THE ROCK: AC/DC
Romanias best AC/DC tribute act come to the Hard Rock
Cafe.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021
206 62 61, 39-60 lei.
13.05 19:00 CARLAS DREAMS
A Moldovan musical project featuring an anonymous
group of singers and composers who sing in Romanian,
Russian and English. Have recently become very big in-
deed.QI20, Arenele Romane, Str. Cutitul de Argint 26
(Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei, 79-290 lei.
13.05 20:00 DEEP PURPLE
Still going after all these years, and still featuring three
members (Paice, Glover and Gillan) of the classic Mark II
line-up. For many Romanian rockers this is the concert of
the year.QD2, Romexpo, B-dul Mrsti 65-67, tel. (+4)
021 207 70 00, 130-350 lei.
17.05 21:30 ZDOB SI ZDUB
Moldovas finest band, mixing rock, rap and traditional
ethnic beats. They never fail to put on a top live show. Es-
sential.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4)
021 206 62 61, 65-125 lei.
18.05 22:30 FELI Romanian singer who performs in
a variety of languages. Nominated for Best Romanian Act
at the 2015 MTV Europe Music Awards.QF3, Hard Rock
Cafe, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 35-50 lei.
19.05 20:00 J&B BLENDING SPIRITS ARENA
Now this will be good. Performing on the same stage for
the first time will be the legendary gypsy act Taraf de
Haidouks and Moldovan ethnic rap/rockers Zdob si Zdub.
Delia, Vita de Vie and Coma make up the rest of the bill.
Over-18s only.QI20, Arenele Romane, Str. Cutitul de Ar
gint 26 (Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei, 59 lei.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

20.05 20:00 SPIRITUAL FRONT
Five-piece neofolk act from Rome who describe their
music as nihilist suicide pop.QJ13, Control Club, Str.
Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78
61, 30 lei.
20.05 18:00 DREAM THEATRE
American progressive metal band formed in 1985, origi-
nally known as Majesty.QI20, Arenele Romane, Str.
Cutitul de Argint 26 (Parcul Carol), MEroii Revolutiei,
225 lei.
20.05 20:00 AL DI MEOLA
American jazz fusion and Latin jazz guitarist.QJ12, Sala
Palatului, Piata Palatului (Str. Ion Campineanu), 59-629
lei.
GIN & JAZZ
Every Thursday evening at the Athenee Palace Hiltons
English Bar you can enjoy live music performed by
talented jazz singer Viorica Pintilie. Settle in for a fine
evening of toe tapping tunes, gin and tonic (and note
that the tonic is on the house), plenty of bites to eat,
cocktails and decent company.QJ12, English Bar, Str.
Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021
303 37 77. Starts at 19:00.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Whats On
The Bucharest Color Run, which this year takes place on April 22nd
21.05 20:00 VIVALDIANO
A multimedia event which combines three-dimensional
visual effects, modern audio technology, a superb light-
show and the Baroque genius of Vivaldis music.QJ12,
Sala Palatului, Piata Palatului (Str. Ion Campineanu),
115-280 lei.
22.05 20:00 ROTEM SIVAN TRIO
New York jazz trio led by Rotem Sivan. Part of Controls
Jazz Nouveau sessions.QJ13, Control Club, Str. Constan
tin Mille 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, 35 lei.
25.05 21:30 BOSQUITO
Local band (well, from Brasov in fact) mixing Latin and
Gypsy rhythms with some success.QF3, Hard Rock Cafe,
Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, 50-80 lei.
25.05 21:30 VUNK
Romanian pop-rock band formed way back in 1994.QSala
Polivalenta, B-dul Tineretului 1 (Parc Tineretului/ Calea
Piscului 10), MTineretului, tel. (+4) 031 425 78 01, 40-
140 lei.
27.05 19:00 FROZEN IN CONCERT
The songs from Disneys Frozen brought to the stage by
a huge cast, featuring a full orchestra and choir. Youll be
singing Let it Go until Christmas.QJ12, Sala Palatului,
Piata Palatului (Str. Ion Campineanu), 56-270 lei.
LATER IN 2017
Big acts already lined up to appear in Bucharest during
what looks set to be another great summer of concerts
include Kings of Leon (June 17th, Arena Nationala),
Andrea Bocelli (June 22nd, Piata Constitutiei), Pla-
cebo (June 28th, Arenele Romane) and Evanescence
(June 29th, Arenele Romane).
April - May 2017 11
 Calea Victoriei
Calea Victoriei in the 1920s
No street in Bucharest has a history to match that of Calea
Victoriei, the citys most famous thoroughfare which runs
- much as it has for more than three centuries - from Piata
Victoriei in the north of the city all the way down to Piata
Natiunilor Unite and the Dambovita river.
Lined with fine houses, palaces, churches, hotels, up-
market shops and museums, it remains perhaps the most
prestigious address in the city.
Calea Victoriei was first opened to traffic - or what
passed for traffic in those days - in 1692, originally part of
the route from the Old Court (Curtea Veche) to Mogosoaia,
where Constantin Brancoveanu, that great ruler of these
parts who did so much to modernise the country during
his long and distinguished reign - had his main palace. The
street has had many names over the years, including Ulita
Sarindar, Drumul Brasovului and Drumul Mogosoaia - its
name until 1878 when it was christened Calea Victoriei in
honour of victories recently won by Romanian armies fight-
ing to preserve the countrys newly won independence
from the Ottoman Empire.
The street - originally covered with logs, as was the
norm in those days - was fully paved by 1825, one of the
first in the city (Strada Franceza, in Old Town/Lipscani,
closer to the Old Court, was in fact the first). There fol-
lowed a blossoming of construction as the street became
a magnet for wealthy merchants who built homes along
its length, keen to be spared the ignominies of the mud
streets which persisted elsewhere. Though much has
changed since, and not a few majestic buildings have fallen
victim to earthquake, war, socialist planning or moderni-
sation, many of the buildings which went up along Calea
Victoriei in the 19th century remain, and to walk the streets
length (around three kilometres) is to at once enjoy an ar-
chitectural treat and history lesson.
Orientation: modern Calea Victoriei can be split more
or less neatly into two sections: the residential northern
part (extending as far south as Calea Grivitei), noted
mainly for its fine houses and palaces; and the com-
mercial southern part, packed with hotels, shops, banks,
restaurants and cafes. To start a walk of the full length of
12 Bucharest In Your Pocket
the street at the northern end (which we recommend, as
you can then end up by relaxing in one of the cafes of Old
Town), simply take the metro to Piata Victoriei.
PIATA VICTORIEI TO CALEA GRIVITEI
For all its history, Calea Victoriei does not start well. Piata
Victoriei is by and large an awful place, all cars and traffic,
smoke and dust. The modernist building on the far side is
the Palatul din Piata Victoriei, home today of the Roma-
nian government (though when it was built in the 1930s it
was the Foreign Ministry). On the other side of the square
is the Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History, built in
1906 and one of the best museums in the country. Else-
where, Piata Victoriei is a socialist nightmare, with its more
recently built office blocks barely more attractive than
those built before 1989.
Heading off from here along Calea Victoriei itself, you
need to walk for 200 metres or so alongside tall, commu-
nist-era blocks on either side until you get to the first of
many neglected architectural gems, the huge Banloc-
Goodrich building at No. 218. Designed by Octav Doices-
cu in 1938 it was completed only in 1946, and is elegantly
functional, the bulk of the building being set back from the
street, creating a small square flanked by the buildings twin
wings. Banloc-Goodrich was the first tyre-manufacturer in
Romania, nationalised in 1948. The building, a gem, is now
owned by the state, but has been vacant for some time. It
is also known as the Red Building, apparently because in its
early years the exterior was painted red. Opposite, on the
corner of Strada Sevastopol, is another wonderful building,
the Casa Filipescu, a vaguely Secessionist house whose
original wrought-iron balconies remain intact. Look out
too for the sculptures over the windows. Built in 1892 the
house is part of the Museum of Bucharest. Just past it is an
equally impressive house which is now home to perhaps
Bucharests finest restaurant, The Artist.
The brand new Victoria Center next door faces an-
other rather lovely building with Secessionist features on
the corner with Strada Frumoasa. The building would be
the highlight of many streets in Romania, but not Calea
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

Victoriei. For next door is the Palatul Cantacuzino at No.
141, usually referred to (mistakenly) as the Casa Enescu.
The building does house the Romanian Museum of Music
(which carries the name of George Enescu, the countrys
finest composer) but - contrary to popular belief, Enescu
never actually lived here. There is a connection, however.
The vaguely baroque, Louis XVI-style building dates from
1898, when it was built for the wealthy politician Gheorghe
Cantacuzino. On his death in 1913 the palace became the
property of Cantacuzinos eldest son Mihai, who in turn left
it to his wife, Maruca, when he died in 1929. Maruca sub-
sequently married Enescu - in 1939 - but they chose to live
in a smaller house at the rear of the palace. The building
became the George Enescu Museum of Music in 1956, a
year after the composers death.
In a well-kept courtyard opposite is the Church of St.
Vasile the Great, rebuilt in 1848 after the 18th century
original was destroyed in an earthquake. Its lovely gate is
bettered by the churchs neoclassical portal, above which
an eye keeps watch for sinners. Its worth popping inside to
take a look at the murals painted by Anton Serafim in the
1880s. Next door is the Casa Dissescu, built for Constantin
Dissescu - a lawyer and for a short time the Minister of Jus-
tice - in 1910. It is today home to the Romanian Institute of
the History of Art. It has a rather nice raised loggia, but the
street has over the years encroached.
Crossing Strada Gheorghe Manu and ignoring the
building site on the right hand side of the road, you will
come across two gorgeous houses next to each other:
the neoclassical yet very French Casa Nenciu was built in
the 1830s for a Wallachian princess, the exotically named
Cleopatra Trubetkoi. In 1847 Franz Liszt stayed here while
on an extended visit to Bucharest. Next door at No. 192, and
set back slightly from the street, is the Casa Manu, com-
pleted in 1843 for the modernising administrator Alecu
Florescu, but named for the man who bought it in 1848:
the legendary general Gheorghe Manu.
The Casa Lens-Vernescu at No. 133 (to give the man-
sion its full name) is one of the finest on Calea Victoriei, built
around 1820 in an eclectic style incorporating many of the
architectural trends of the time. For years it was regarded
as the most beautiful house in the city, and belonged ini-
tially to Filip Lens, a lawyer and politician. On his death in
1852 the house became a residence for military officers,
the Ministry of War moving in shortly afterwards. Another
politician, Gheorghe Vernescu, bought it from the state in
1886, and had it extensively remodelled over a two-year
period from 1887-9. It was at this time that the majority of
the stunning interior frescoes were added. The building is
now home to a casino and restaurant.
The Casa Vernescu is almost eclipsed by the equally
grand house opposite, the Palatul Ghica-Gradisteanu.
Built first in the 1850s before being completely remodelled
in 1898, it hosts the Romanian-Chinese Cultural Centre.
Those visitors to (and residents of ) Bucharest who
speed along in Calea Victoriei in cars - pausing only to
watch the traffic lights turning green - often fail to realise
that the street is blessed with a number of small parks. The
Nicolae Iorga Park is just one of these. A gorgeous little
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Calea Victoriei
The Art Collections Museum
place, the park is home to two large busts: one of Nicolae
Iorga (a 19th century politician and polymath), and one of
Nichita Stanescu, Romanias finest 20th century poet.
The large, handsome church overlooking the park is the
St. Nicolae Tabacu church, first built in 1840. Next to it is
the now sadly neglected Casa Cesianu, built in 1880 and
which was for a long time home to the German Legation in
Bucharest. It most recently housed a casino, but has been
empty for some time.
Opposite (and built at a right angle to the street) is the
imposing Library of the Romanian Academy, a Duiliu
Marcu design (Marcu was also the architect behind the
Palatul din Piata Victoriei) constructed from 1936-7. More
than four million books are kept inside.
The house on the south-western corner of the Calea
Victoriei/Bulvardul Dacia intersection, hidden behind ad-
vertising hoardings and trees is the once fabulous Casa
Monteoru. One of the oldest on Calea Victoriei it dates from
around 1810, although it was almost entirely reconstructed
in the 1880s (to designs by Ion Mincu - an architect whose
name you come across a lot in Bucharest). The building is
distinguished by its uneven character: the ground floor is
much smaller than the upper floor, the gorgeous balcony
of which is supported by two broad, Corinthian columns.
Eclectic both inside and out the building is today one of a
number in the city owned by the Romanian Writers Union.
Next door is a fine palace (pictured above), known as
the Palat Romanit which hosts the Museum of Art Collec
tions. The central corp was built in 1834, then rebuilt and
extended in 1883, when the wings were added. For much
of the 19th century the building was home to the Ministry
of Finance, becoming an art museum in 1948, when the
wealthiest families in Romania were made an offer they
couldnt refuse by the mafia-like communist government,
and forced to donate their extensive art collections to the
state.
The elegant, modernist if rather neglected (spotting a
theme?) linear building at No. 152, next to the Golden Tulip
hotel, is another Duiliu Marcu design, built from 1936-40
and which was from 1948-1989 home of the State Plan
ning Committee. Looking every inch a 1930s Italian railway
station, the clock on the sublime tower is a gem. It is to be
hoped that the building will soon be restored to past glories:
it is one of the most overlooked and ignored in the city.
April - May 2017 13
 Calea Victoriei
COMMERCIAL CALEA VICTORIEI
It is at the crossroads with Calea Grivitei that you notice a PASAJUL VILACROSSE
real change in the mood of Calea Victoriei. The road and
pavements narrow, and houses, palaces and small parks Today home to more than a good cafe or two, the el-
give way to blocks - many of which are nevertheless el- egant Pasajul Macca-Vilacrosse (J-14) was built in
egant if run down - most of which are now used as offices, 1891 as a conduit between Calea Victoriei - then the
with shops on the ground floor. busiest street in the city - and the National Bank. It is
But there are exceptions, such as the Stirbey Palace named for a Catalan architect, Xavier Villacrosse, who
at No. 107, which dates from 1835, but which is rather from 1840-50 was the chief architect of Bucharest, and
hemmed in by the 1960s apartment blocks which surround Mihalache Macca, son-in-law of the buildings architect,
it, and its facade is spoilt by the impromptu car park directly Felix Xenopol. It is covered with an arcade yellow glass
in front. For decades a museum of arts and crafts, the build- roof to allow natural light, also intended to encourage
ing is currently in limbo although a cafe and bar usually commerce at street level. In other words, this was Bu-
operates in the courtyard during spring and summer. charests first shopping mall. During the communist
A little way long the other side of the road, past the period the passage was known by the name Pasajul Bi-
courtyard that leads to the legendary jazz and theatre club juteriei (Jewellery Passage) and hosted the citys largest
Green Hours, is the extravagant, deliberately over-engi- jewellers. Its original name was restored in 1990.
neered Neo-Romanian AGIR building at No. 118. Designed
by Petre Antonescu and completed in 1925 its facade ap-
parently pays tribute to the engineering genius of Roman
aqueducts. The AGIR was the pre-war association of Roma-
nian engineers, and the building was very much seen as a
look what we can do calling card. Next door is a charming
if neglected 19th century low rise building that looks very
out of place in such high-rise company.
The next building of real interest will for most people
be the little white church set back from the street in a
small square on the corner of Str. George Enescu. Known
colloquially as the Biserica Alba (White Church), it is offi-
cially the Biserica Sf. Nicolae and is one of the oldest in
Bucharest, founded in 1700. The current structure dates
from 1827 however (the original was destroyed in an earth-
quake), with the interior frescoes for which it is famed hav-
ing been restored a number of times, most recently in 1988.
After the last major earthquake in Bucharest (in 1977) the
foundations of the church were consolidated, and it is now
considered one of the safest in the city.
The glass and steel opposite belong to the Radisson
Blu hotel. The hotels interior courtyard is home - in the
right weather - to one of the few outdoor swimming pools people refer to the whole open space as Piata Revolutiei,
in the city. In what is very much Bucharests Hotel Row, di- however). Most of those buildings are listed in the Sight-
rectly across the road from the Radisson is the Athenee seeing section which starts on page 44, but there are a
Palace Hilton, one of few hotels in the world whose his- couple we should point out for you. First off, the University
tory is so intriguing that books have been written about it Library. It was designed by the French architect Paul Got-
(Rosie Waldecks Athenee Palace details the intricate diplo- tereau and built from 1891-95. Badly damaged during the
matic discussions - official or otherwise - which took place revolution of 1989, it was faithfully restored from 1993-96
here in the 1930s and 1940s). The hotel opened in 1912 (it and is now one of the citys finest buildings.
was designed by a Frenchman, Teophile Bradeau) and was Take a look also at the building just behind it: a modern
built on the site of an old inn, the Hanul Gherasi. The Calea green office block inside the ruins of an old house first built
Victoriei wing was added in the 1960s, and the hotel was in 1890. What happened here is simple: the original build-
entirely renovated again in 1997 when it became a Hilton ing was all but destroyed during the 1989 revolution (this
property. square saw most of the action: it was from the balcony of the
The Athenee Palace vies for attention on Piata Revo- Former Central Committee Building that Nicolae Ceausescu
lutiei with the Atheneum, the Former Royal Palace, the gave his last public speech, before fleeing the next day from
University Library, the statue of Carol I, the Former Cen the roof in a helicopter). It was taken over by the Architects
tral Committee Building, the Revolution Monument and Union who then created the rather splendid mix of old and
the Cretulescu Church. (In fact, there are two squares here: new we admire today. There is a cafe on the ground floor.
the area as far as the Carol I statue is Piata George Enescu, The Revolution Monument is a less impressive affair,
with Piata Revolutiei only kicking in beyond that. Most mocked by locals who call it an olive on a stick. It seems a
14 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

most unworthy memorial for those who died here in 1989.
It is worth taking a short detour off Calea Victoriei itself
to look at the Union Building on the corner of Str. Acad-
emiei and Str. Ion Campaneanu: it is an art deco master-
piece built in 1928-9 whose central facade looks much
like a rocket about to blast off. A more recent renovation
is the Grand Continental Hotel, reopened a decade ago
after being almost totally rebuilt. Opposite is the Novotel,
whose faux neolassical entrance is an exact replica of that
of Bucharests original National Theatre, which stood here
from 1852 until it was destroyed in an allied bombing raid
in August 1944 (just days before Romania changed sides
in World War II). Next to the Novotel is one of Calea Victo-
rieis most instantly recognisable landmarks, the art deco
Palatul Telefoanelor (Telephone Palace). Built over three
years from 1929-32 to serve as the headquarters of Roma-
nias national telephone company (which it remained until
the early 1990s) it was the first building in the country to be
constructed in the manner of an American skyscraper: con-
crete reinforced by a steel frame. Just over 53 metres high,
until the Inter Continental was built in the early 1970s it
was the tallest building in Bucharest.
There are three other hotels on this part of the street:
the Majestic, the Capitol and the Casa Capsa - the latter
being one of the oldest in the city, dating back to 1886. The
cafe on the ground floor was for decades - especially in the
1920s and 1930s - the unofficial home of Romanias best
writers, who would wile away their days here. The name
refers to the founder of the hotel, Grigore Capsa, who was
said to be able to spot a decent writer a mile away: writers
(a superstitious bunch at the best of times) came to his cafe
to seek his approval.
While the Pasajul Villacrosse (see box, left) further
along the street is the most famous of Bucharests 19th
century arcades, it is certainly not the only one. Opposite
the Telephone Palace is the Pasajul Victoriei, which, while
not as architecturally pleasing as Villacrosse, has perhaps
an even richer history: built in the 1830s it was home for a
long time to the citys biggest (and most luxurious) brothel.
King Carol II was allegedly a regular client. The brothel was
closed in 1947, but the goings-on inside (and in the pasaj in
general) are immortalised in Ion Matei Caragiales Craii de
Curtea Veche, a novel published in 1929 for which life the
pasaj provided much inspiration.
An even narrower pasaj, the Pasajul Comedie, can be
found on the left hand side of the Odeon Theatre (opened
in 1911). A statue of the Turkish leader Kemal Ataturk
stands in front of the theatre.
The Cercul Militar was completed in 1912, on the site
of a former monastery, the Sarindar. A recently renovated
fountain in front of the building preserves the Sarindar
name. Opposite is one of the more striking blocks built dur-
ing the early communist period: the Romarta Block (com-
pleted in 1960), complete with a covered walkway on three
sides. When In Your Pocket first came to Romania in 1999,
our office was on the 5th floor. Across the busy road junc-
tion is the Hotel Bulevard, built in the 1860s and the first in
the city to have running water in all of its rooms. A five-star
refit is nearing completion.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Calea Victoriei
On the opposite corner, find the little courtyard (next to
the take-away section of Pizza Hut) which leads through to
one of Bucharests many hidden churches (Romanias com-
munist authorities had a habit of building tall apartment
blocks around churches to hide them from public view).
Dating from 1683 the churchs name is a mouthful: the
Biserica Intrarea Maicii Domnului n Biseric (the Church
of the Entrance of the Mother of God into Church). The re-
cently restored frescoes are worth popping inside to see.
The block above Pizza Hut is known as the Delta Dunarii
(Danube Delta) block. Until the early 1990s a famous fish
restaurant of the same name occupied the ground floor.
From here Calea Victoriei heads gently downhill to-
wards the river. You will see the rather yellowy-orange fa-
cade of the Bucharest Police Headquarters, next to which is
the Magazinul Victoria, built in 1928, and originally known
as the Galeries Lafayette. It was the first department store
to open in Romania. Lurking across the road is the Banco
rex building (now called the Bucharest Financial Plaza):
the first modern office block to be built after 1990. Banco-
rex was set up to disperse foreign loans and investment in
the early 1990s but went bust in 1999. Its name has since
become a byword for corruption.
Opposite, on the corner of Strada Lipscani, is the 19th
century Palatul Dacia (built for the long defunct Dacia in-
surance company). Next to that is the Zlatari Church, built
in the 1850s and most notable for the interior frescoes,
painted by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Just past the church is the
National History Museum. The Old Town/Lipscani area
lurks behind the History Museum.
Opposite is the amazing CEC building, one of the citys
finest, with the elegant and recently renovated Casa Prag
er two buildings along. First constructed in 1770 for the Va-
carescu family it carries the name of Sigmund Prager, who
bought it in 1887. It is of all things today the headquarters
of the Romanian national lottery.
At the very bottom of Calea Victoriei, facing the river,
are the Gloriette Buildings, neither of which is in the best
of shape. Designed by local architect Petru Antonescu and
completed in 1926, they are worth noting for the reason that
their design (particularly the belvedere at the top) was used
as a blueprint for the apartment buildings which went up in
the Civic Centre along Bulevardul Unirii in the 1980s (and
which, it should be said, have weathered no better).
April - May 2017 15
 Restaurants
Restaurants
AMERICAN & BURGERS
NEW
BLACK BUFFALO KITCHEN & BAR Seriously good bis-
tro on Bulevardul Decebal, the work of a chef currently serv-
ing as one of the judges on the local version of Masterchef.
Famous for its burgers (bigger in size than just about any-
where else in the city), there is loads more to enjoy on the
menu, and everything is made fresh using only the finest
ingredients. Perhaps our favourite are the enormous racks
of ribs: as tender as anything you will eat in Bucharest. For
dessert, the cheesecake awaits (if they have any left: it goes
fast). Oh, and bring the kids: they will love the place, and
have their own menu.QB-dul Decebal 3, tel. (+4) 0740
04 00 50. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTLBSW Promenada Mall, MegaMall & (E-18) Vulcan Value Cen
CHAMPIONS Still serving one of the very best burgers in
Bucharest (you can choose one or design your own from
an endless choice of toppings), a fact undisputed by any-
one weve ever met. It is also one of the biggest. In fact,
now we think of it, the portions of everything here are
enormous: even the childrens servings are very healthy
indeed. Besides the burgers you will find a great selection
of American pub food, as well as Tex-Mex treats and even
some more refined, slow food options. Famously good
cocktails, and more televisions showing sport than you
could ever hope for. Find it in the Marriott.QF16, Calea
13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel),
tel. (+4) 021 403 19 17, www.jwbucharestcollection.ro/
champions. Open 12:00 24:00. . PTLSW
HARD ROCK CAFE One of the largest Hard Rocks in Eu-
rope, you cant go wrong here, whatever time of day you
visit. Come for lunch with the kids (who are always well
looked after, and have their own menu), dinner with the
crowd from work or late drinks and live music with your
mates. All things to all people the burgers and ribs are a
cut above the usual, desserts are as outsized and sweet as
they should be, and the service comes from smiley wait-
resses and expert bar staff. We love it. Lets rock.QF3, Sos.
Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 021 206 62 61, www.hardrock.com/
bucharest. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PTLESW 13:00 - 22:00. . PVSW
16 Bucharest In Your Pocket
ORO TORO
Highly successful chain of great value, upmarket burger
joints found in just about every mall in Bucharest (and in
an increasingly large number of places around the coun-
try). Brought to you by the people behind top steakhouse
Osho, you know that what you are getting here is fine beef,
all cooked fresh to order. There are more than 10 burgers
to choose from (try the Halloumi burger), as well as an
enormous hot dog and both chicken and salmon burgers.
Prices, given the high quality, are fantastic, and for once
the fries are as tasty as the burgers.Qos. Bucureti-
Ploieti 42D (Baneasa Shopping City), www.orotoro.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Also at (A-15) AFI Palace Cotroceni,
Bucuresti Mall, Park Lake Plaza, Plaza Romania, (K-2)
tre. . PTVBS
VIVO
Burgers - big, tasty ones - and much more besides. We
tried the Game of Dijons burger, a right monster packed
with all sorts of treats, from parmesan and cheddar to
truffle oil and a seriously good mustard sauce. You will do
well to finish it. There are also fine ribs, chunky soups and
even salads. Desserts as immense as everything else, and
the only disappointment were the fries: not the best in the
city. Worth going though, for the burgers alone, if you can
get a table: this place is popular.QK7, Calea Floreasca 60,
tel. (+4) 021 233 96 88, www.vivofoodbar.com. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PSW
BRITISH
PETERS KITCHEN BISTRO
Serves the best fish and chips in all of Romania. If that isnt
reason enough to get yourselves here pronto, then we
might add that the burgers are equally superb, while the
pork belly - served with a gorgeous beer-infused gravy - is
a genuine taste sensation rare for these parts. Prices are
low given the quality, and the place itself is a little old Bu-
charest house oozing with charm. We love it.QL13, Str.
Sperantei 6, tel. (+4) 0742 58 06 86/(+4) 021 312 02 42,
www.peterskitchen.ro. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
THE TRAFALGAR PUB
Popular with expats who have a regular rendezvous here,
this place is a pub and bistro in one, where you can get
a tasty meal for a decent price while enjoying excellent
company. The menu is international with a choice of Brit-
ish dishes - we can recommend both the beef and chicken
pies - but best of all we like the beef sour soup (ciorba de
vacuta) - one of the best in the city. There is Guinness and
Kilkenny on draught: both at a good price. You really cant
go wrong. Get there now.QK9, Str. David Emmanuel
4A, tel. (+4) 021 211 31 51, www.trafalgarpub.eu. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PLVE
SW

FOOD & DRINK

What do we mean by Food & Drink? Simple: places in
which you could just as easily sit down and have a three
course meal as you could spend a night on the beer or
cocktails.

18 LOUNGE
Lunch or dinner with a view? This is the place to come
people. On the 18th floor of one of the tallest office build-
ings in the city, this place doesnt need to serve decent
food to attract clients: fortunately, it does. More than just a
restaurant the lunch is a great deal, and late in the evening
it becomes a smooth, relaxed pace to hang out. It is also a
self-declared anti-fitze establishment (much like its sister
locations in the centre of town) and the vibe is always a
little trendy but never kitsch. We like it.QE3, P-ta Pre
sei Libere 3-5, tel. (+4) 0733 50 14 01, www.18lounge.
ro. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLW

EMBASSY
Popular with a wealthy crowd, the central and original Em-
bassy (there are a couple of spin-offs in town) has been
around a few years now, and in this city longevity alone is
a sign of how good it is. Serving a decent gourmet burger
and much else besides (including some cracking cocktails)
it is the kind of place that grows on you as the evening
wears on, and in all likeliness you will stay until very late.
We usually do. Try and bag a table outside in summer: not
easily done at the weekend.QJ11, P-ta Lahovari 8, MPi
ata Romana, tel. (+4) 0733 50 03 00, www.embassy-
club.ro. Open 11:00 - 03:00. . PBSW

THE HARBOUR
A top location, in Piata Amzei, with food to match, as well
as friendly and efficient staff. The atmosphere is relaxing,
the food better than average, though the real joy of this
place is its view to the market. We came here for lunch
recently and were stunned by how many foreigners were
eating here: it must be one of the most popular tourist and
visitor spots in town.QJ11, P-ta Amzei 10-22, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 021 319 72 57/(+4) 0724 38 86 86,
www.harbour.ro. Open 11:30 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
. PLVEBSW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 17
 Restaurants
was probably the crab meat served in a tomato jelly with
a smoked aubergine dressing. Well worth the high cost,
they even serve Tokaji dessert wine. A culinary adventure.
Save up and go.QJ12, Str. Episcopiei 3, tel. (+4) 0756 01
83 93, www.lebistrotfrancais.ro. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
. PLW

FRENCH
CEZANNE Lets start with the building: its an art deco/
neo-Romanian villa once used by King Carol II for trysts
with his mistress Magda Lupescu. Many of the original
features have been kept, including a gorgeous fireplace
and loggia with views out on to the busy square. Now the
food: sublime. Its all put together by Cezar Munteanu, one
of Romanias best (and best known) chefs. The creative
menu is a melange of French, Italian and Modern British
flavours, all created using the finest ingredients.QH5, Pi
ata Charles de Gaulle 3, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0376 20
33 40/(+4) 0799 88 56 27, www.cezanne.ro. Open 12:00
- 22:00. Closed Sun. . PTHILBSW We like the long list of vegetarian dishes, of which the
LE BISTROT FRANCAIS As close as you will get to the
real deal in this city. A succinct menu of only the finest
food available is cooked and prepared by a team of amaz-
ing chefs, and served by knowing staff. Fresh foie gras,
Wagyu beef and lamb steaks marinated for seven hours
are just a three of the sensational dishes available. Our fave
GREEK
MEZE TAVERNA Another excellent Greek restaurant. It
even looks the part - we love the lampshades made from
empty olive oil cans - while the food itself is seriously, seri-
ously good. There is tons of seafood on the gorgeous menu
(the fish soup and the prawns with tomatoes and cheese
are musts), alongside what is some of the best lamb weve
eaten in Bucharest. The Greek burger is a nice treat too. The
chef, Georgios, is always coming up with tasty daily spe-
cials, so ask your waiter whats cooking. The house red is
a drinkable bargain.QJ15, Str. Nicolae Tonita 6, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 539 53 53, www.mezetaverna.ro.
Open 10:00 - 02:00. . PJESW
INDIAN
HAVELI Convincingly authentic Indian cuisine served in
a brightly decorated villa, where the sauces are by nature
lighter for locals but where the chef will - with pleasure
- spice things up for the more experienced Indian diner.
Bhangan Bharta (aubergine with tomato and onion) is a

GERMAN
DIE DEUTSCHE KNEIPE This place has remained
more or less unchanged in 20 years (it opened in
1996), and thats just the way that we and all the other
happy regulars like it. Serving giant portions of great
German sausages (all made on the premises) as well as
huge pork knuckles, seriously good kraut and a Hunter
Schnitzel the size of the Bismarck it also has a couple
of cracking German beers on draught. Service comes
with a smile from the family team who own and run
the place, and you will usually need a reservation at
weekends. Tuesday and Thursday theres a business
lunch: one of the best value feeds in the city. On sunny
days head for the beer garden, which comes complete
with one of those German beer flagpole things. Bril-
liant.QJ8, Str. Stockholm 9, tel. (+4) 021 233 94 62/
(+4) 0722 28 45 60, www.diedeutschekneipe.ro.
Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
. PBSW

18 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

 Restaurants
particular favourite. The onion bhajis are good too, while
the lamb rogan josh never fails to hit the spot. Does home
delivery too.QN11, Str. Episcop Radu 3, tel. (+4) 021 211
03 90/(+4) 0721 72 16 40, www.haveli.ro. Open 12:00 -
23:00, Mon 19:00 - 23:00. . PLVSW

KARISHMA A good Indian-in-Bucharest option where

the menu boasts no fewer than 10 lamb dishes: a rare treat
in these parts where the raw material is so hard to find.
There is much more besides of course, including an exten-
sive range of vegetarian food, and the chefs will happily
tone down (or up) all dishes according to your spice toler-
ance levels. The place itself is nice and the staff know their
stuff.QO12, Str. Iancu Capitanu 36, tel. (+4) 021 252 51
57, www.karishma.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. . PV
BSW

ITALIAN
ALT SHIFT When you walk in you immediately see why
this place is the current choice of many designers and arty
types: the interior is as contemporary as it gets, the high
ceilings giving the place the feel of a New York loft. The
food is much like the place itself: contemporary with a
traditional twist, and with plenty for vegetarians to enjoy.
Found above our favourite Bucharest club, Control, the
place stays open - with a limited menu - into the early
hours on club nights for those hungry clubbers looking for
snacks.QJ13, Str. Constantin Mille 4, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0372 98 02 25/(+4) 0727 31 62 45, www.altshift.
ro. Open 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 -
03:00. . PW

CAFFE CITTA Styled as a Northern Italian city centre

caf/bistro the emphasis here is on good, simple, urban
food. Try the risotto with saffron, the saltim bocca and the
tiramisu: all signature dishes and all done to perfection.
The drinks menu is a bit special: go for the apple mojito (as
delicious as it sounds) or try any number of great wines, all
available by the glass. Keep the kids happy with the freshly
made ice cream.QI12, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson
Blu), tel. (+4) 021 601 34 36/(+4) 021 311 90 00, www.
caffe-citta.ro. Open 11:00 - 23:30. . PLBW

CAPRICCIOSA A bustling Italian restaurant and piz-

zeria whose menu is a veritable dictionary of pizza. They
even do truffles and, lets face it, you dont see those ev-
ery day on a menu in Bucharest. Well worth making the
journey uptown for both the food and the atmosphere,
which demonstrates that top restaurants dont have to
be flash.QB-dul Ion Ionescu de la Brad 2, tel. (+4) 021
233 06 35/(+4) 0722 22 47 99 (+) 0723 26 90 30, www.
restaurantcapricciosa.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PLSW

CASA DI DAVID You can say what you like about this
place (and most people in Bucharest have some kind of
opinion), but we think that of all the upmarket places on
the shore of Herastrau lake, this remains just about the
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 19
 Restaurants
best. It is certainly a very nice place to spend the evening.
The food is ristorante Italian with a twist (the duck breast
with citrus fruits is our pick of the current menu) and out-
standingly good, with enough fish dishes to make it ap-
pealing to sea food lovers. Staff are good and the wine list
a cracker.QI2, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 47 15/
(+4) 0722 26 93 60, www.casadidavid.ro. Open 12:30 -
23:30. . PLSW pasta is all made on the premises, and if you like what you
CUCINA Bright and breezy, Cucina at the JW Marriott is
a wonderful Italian restaurant where you can find prob-
ably the best (and perhaps only) butterfish steak in the
city. All of the other fine Italian dishes are equally memo-
rable, and note that all of the pasta is homemade on the
premises. No fewer than 26 good Italian reds grace the
wine menu.QF16, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott
Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 403 19 02, www.
jwbucharestcollection.ro/cucina. Open 12:30 - 16:00,
18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. . PLESW astrau. The range of quality of food is almost unmatched
FIOR DI LATTE
Gorgeous little Italian bistro next to Osho. Features a
wide range of dishes all a cut above the average, and you
can rest assured that all of the pasta is made fresh on the
premises. Uses a mix of first class ingredients, and all of the
hams and cheeses are the real deal, imported from Italy.
Desserts are a particular treat, including first class home
made ice cream. The terrace is shady and perfect for long
summer evenings, while the interior dining room features
20 Bucharest In Your Pocket
a long table perfect for big groups. All in all, very good,
although far from cheap.QH5, B-dul Primaverii 19-21,
MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0784 42 05 55. Open 08:00 -
24:00. . PLBW
IL VILLAGIO Italian food done right. Simple, delicious
and made with only the best, freshest ingredients. The
taste (and you will) you can even buy some homemade
sauces, as well as oils and vinegars, in the trattorias shop.
The place itself is bright and contemporary, and even the
pizza is a gastronomic treat. A cut above must Bucharest
Italians, so are the prices. Worth it though.QK11, Str.
Xenopol 8-10, tel. (+4) 0753 50 06 00, www.ilvillagio.ro.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
ISOLETTA
Sublime Italian and seafood eatery on the shore of lake Her-
in these parts. There is a range of fish carpaccios as long as
your arm (take the mixed one if you cant decide), as well
as more fresh fish than we think weve seen on any Bucha-
rest menu. It all costs a fortune (we are talking Paris prices
here) but the cashed-up crowd that comes here doesnt
appear to mind. Indeed, we think its part of the attraction.
The wine list features a Chateau Lafite Rothschild 2004
for a bargain 8900 lei if you are feeling flush.QH2, Sos.
Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 021 232 21 88, www.isoletta.ro/.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. +. PLBW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
OSTERIA GIOIA
One of very few genuinely brilliant Italian eateries in Bu-
charest. Everything is done properly, from pasta made on
the premises to the correct oils for the different dishes. We
ate the excellent troffiette with smoked pancetta, porcini
mushrooms, truffles and pecorino, which was followed by
slow-cooked veal shanks in wine and aromatic herbs. Even
the place itself is wonderful: long, narrow, with a great bar
it is a foodies heaven. Go there.QG8, B-dul Ion Mihal
ache 16, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 311 37 50/(+4)
0734 04 46 42, www.osteriagioia.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PSW

POESIA
Fine-dining Italian in a rather elegant setting in Bucha-
rests leafiest and most exclusive district. The venue is gor-
geous although the courtyard - otherwise perfect for long
warm evenings - can feel a bit hemmed in. Never mind,
down some fine wine and forget about it: the menu is in-
ventive enough to perk your interest, and everything on it
we have tasted is done well - especially the seafood (lob-
ster!) which they would appear to excel at. As for prices, for
what you get they are good. In fact, the set-menu gour-
met business lunch is an absolute bargain. Service can be
patchy and a bit snooty, but thats about the only fault we
could find.QH5, B-dul Aviatorilor 76, MAviatorilor, tel.
(+4) 0744 50 20 00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PT
LBW

ROBERTOS & LA STRADA A fabulous place. Boast-

ing an open kitchen, three distinct dining areas and a pri-
vate dining room (as well as possibly the best terrace in
Bucharest, La Strada), Robertos also has a fantastic chef:
Marco Magri. The food is classical, with the menu boasting
the best dishes from a number of Italian regions, includ-
ing Catania, Campania, Venice and Sicily. Bucharests best
carpaccio, complete with truffles, is served here. All of the
pasta is homemade, and even the pizza is a cut above the
competition: in short, this is one of the top five restaurants
in the land. Each week Robertos is home to one of Bucha-
rests finest Sunday Brunches, which features fine Italian
food alongside a Romanian buffet.QJ12, Str. Episcopiei
1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77, fax
(+4) 021 315 21 21, www.robertos.ro/. Open 06:30 -
10:00, 12:00 - 24:00. Sat, Sun 06:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 24:00.
. Sunday Brunch 12:30-16:00, 170 lei per person.
Free for children under 10. PTSW

TRATTORIA DON VITO RISTORANTE

They get a lot right here, not least the bean soup that is
a meal in itself. Excellent salads, and the seafood-packed
signature Don Vito pasta was memorable. The plate of
grilled prawns we were serves here was about the big-
gest and tastiest we have ever seen in this city. There is
pizza too, the sweets are delicious and the place itself is
decked out well without ever overdoing it. Well worth a
look.QJ11, Str. Mendeleev 1, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4)
0733 33 30 21, www.trattoriadonvito.ro. Open 12:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PBSW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 21
 Restaurants
JAPANESE
EDO SUSHI In the courtyard of a splendid 1930s Calea Vic-
toriei building is this excellent sushi restaurant which is as
good as any to open in Bucharest, ever. A full range of sushi
(maki, gunkan, nigiri and tamaki) is on offer, as well as lots of
sashimi, some very tasty (and spicy) soups and even salad.
And all at prices which are far below a couple of other sushi
places in town we could mention. Indeed, the set menus -
including the all you can eat lunch - are bargains. They also
offer home delivery and take-away.QI11, Calea Victoriei
122, tel. (+4) 0735 11 10 01/(+4) 0767 51 61 61, www.edo-
sushi.ro. Open 13:00 - 24:00. . PVSW FOUR SEASONS DOROBANTI From the same people
KANPAI With Chef Hiro at the controls you are pretty
much guaranteed a decent Japanese meal at this place, just
behind Floreasca market. There is an extensive Japanese
tapas menu great for sharing, while the sushi and sashimi
are as good as anywhere in the city. There are plenty of
Japanese classics too, not least the red tuna steak served
with quinoa, while the rice burgers were an unexpected
treat. Kids menu, good wine list and decent service.QK7,
Str. George Calinescu 49, tel. (+4) 0371 18 49 61, www.
kanpai.ro. Open 12:30 - 23:00. . PTVBSW tel. (+4) 021 233 94 31/(+4) 0722 21 66 66, www.four-
ZEN SUSHI Sushi - and then some. There is sushi nigiri,
sashimi, maki and temaki: all of which is excellent and rela-
tively well-priced. There are various set menus at a wide
range of prices and genuinely something for all pockets,
not least the sashimi menu for two which is a bargain at
120 lei. There is a full teppanyaki menu too, and unlike
certain other Japanese restaurants in Bucharest we could
mention the food at this elegant place does not cost a
fortune.QJ6, Str. George Calinescu 15, tel. (+4) 0722 16
17 18/(+4) 0735 93 69 36, www.zensushi.ro. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30, Also at (I-9) Str. Grigore Alex
andrescu 56, tel. (+4) 0752 02 25 94, (+4) 0721 75 54 55;
and (K-18) Str. Calea Serban Voda 86, tel. (+4) 0722 96 16
43, (+4) 0767 23 20 94. . PVBSW crowds of the city centre. Top cocktails and wine list, and
youtube.com/inyourpocket
22 Bucharest In Your Pocket
LEBANESE
CHEZ TONI Terrific Lebanese food in the leafy, away-
from-it-all setting of the Pescariu Tennis and Sports Club.
All your Middle Eastern favourites are here, from Antaki,
Adana and Beiti kebabs to sujuk (those tangy, spicy little
sausages) and simple yet perfectly grilled sea bass (and a
ton of other fresh fish). Everything is cooked by the resi-
dent Lebanese chef.QM4, Str. Glodeni 3, tel. (+4) 021
242 02 04/(+4) 0740 00 78 78, www.cheztoni.ro. Open
12:00 - 24:00. . PLBSW
who have long been serving some of the best Lebanese
food in the city at their Vasile Lascar location comes Four
Seasons Dorobanti, a more upmarket place to indulge
yourself. The food is fabulous and features the full range
of Lebanese food, including the best selection of mezze
in the city. There are grilled meats and fish too, while veg-
etarians will also find plenty to tempt them with. Make
sure you try the superb Lebanese yoghurt - made with
mint and garlic - and the amazing homemade lemonade.
Nice terrace in the summer.QI7, Calea Dorobantilor 177,
seasons.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Also
at (M-11) Str. Vasile Lascar 81, tel. (+40) 21 212 29 92. .
PBSW
MEDITERRANEAN
AQUA
There is a string of restaurants along the northern side of
Herastrau Lake (all of which, strangely, share the same ad-
dress: Sos. Nordului 7-9). This place is, in our opinion, the
best of them. A fine range of Mediterranean food, with one
of the best selections of fish and seafood in the city. The
vibe is fashionable yet very casual, and attracts a crowd of
both young and old who have had enough of the dust and
while the prices are by no means cheap, the high quality
is well worth the extra: value for money guaranteed. Well
worth your time.QI2, Sos. Nordului 7-9, tel. (+4) 0749
049 049, www.aqua-herastrau.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PBW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
LUNCH & EARLY EVENING
AROME Coffee shop serving lunch and light meals
in a bright, contemporary and really rather charming
setting opposite the Novotel. There are fresh daffodils
on every table (or there were when we visited) and the
staff are young, friendly and efficient. There are tables
on the ground floor and downstairs in the cellar, where
you will find more than a few nice touches, such as a
swing hanging from the ceiling. The double-coloured
carrot soup was a tasty treat, while the desserts are all
homemade and equally good.QJ13, Str. Ion Camp
ineanu 22, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0749 10 96 39.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
. PNW

BOUTIQUE DU PAIN Everything you want from a

city-centre eatery and a lot more. This is in fact more
bistro than anything, serving breakfast, lunch and eve-
ning meals in fresh, bright surroundings. The selection
of morning pastries is the best in the city, with office
workers going out of their way to stop here for fresh
supplies. For lunch there is a range of sandwiches hard
to beat anywhere else, and the small selection of hot
meals of an evening - the menu changes daily - are
perfect for a casual dinner.QJ13, Str. Academiei 28-
30, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 44 33 00, www.
boutiquedupain.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 20:00. . PSW
FRATELLINI Serves breakfast, brunch and early eve-
ning meals. Attracting a crowd of the rich and success-
ful it is not for everyone (prices are high) but the quiet,
lakeside location is amazing and the place warrants a
visit from anyone fed up with the chaos of the Old Town
and the dust of the city centre. Expect first class modern
European food and a wide range of well-made drinks,
from smoothies to cocktails.QL3, Str. Gheorghe Tite
ica 212-214, tel. (+4) 0733 22 92 29, www.fratellini.ro.
Open 09:00 - 22:00. . PLBSW
MODIGLIANI PASTA/CARNE Amazingly good
Italian restaurant which simply knocks our socks off
every time we come. Boasting top chef Cristian Marino
in the kitchen, there is a new menu too and the place
is quite simply better than ever: the InterContinental is
one of very few hotels in Bucharest which really does
go the extra mile to make sure that us diners are kept
happy. All the pasta here is made fresh, the meat is the
finest Argentine and Scottish beef or New Zealand
lamb, the giant prawns come from Indonesia and the
wine is a selection of the best the world has to offer.
There is usually a pianist too. We love the place.QK13,
Str. Batistei 9 (InterContinental), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0730 64 48 06, www.restaurantmodigliani.
com. Open 16:00 - 23:30, Sun 18:00 - 23:30. .
PLBW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
CAJU Joseph Hadads eponymous signature restaurant
has long been one of the top ten eateries in Bucharest, and
the early evidence suggests that Caju, his latest adventure,
is set to join it. The Mediterranean influence that made Jo-
seph such a hit is once again in show here, seeping into
every dish - from Morrocco in particular. Overall though
this is a more casual affair that anything Hadad has done
before, the design more brasserie than fine dining.QJ12,
Str. Nicolae Golescu 16, tel. (+4) 0751 14 45 45. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . PTBSW
JOSEPH Looking for gems such as a homemade ravioli
with fillet of sea bass? Then get yourself here. This is an
outstanding place in every way: not only is the food sen-
sational - the menu is mainly Mediterranean but there is
more than a hint of France too - but the villa in which it is
served is also something of a Bucharest treasure. In brief,
this is as good as modern, contemporary dining gets in
this city and a visit here is worth every penny (speaking
of which, the set two-course lunch is a bargain).QG6,
Str. Prof. Dr. Ioan Cantacuzino 8, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4)
0753 99 93 33, www.josephrestaurant.ro. Open 12:00 -
24:00. . PLSW
SHARKIA Sharkia blows in to the Radisson like the
eponymous wind and brings with it some top class dining
at the hotels latest restaurant. In place of Le Bistro what we
have here is a dining room where the focus is on Eastern
Mediterranean food, the freshest seasonal ingredients and
April - May 2017 23
 Restaurants
SLOW FOOD
BEAUTYFOOD
Love it. Another brilliant little Slow Food venue pops
up in Bucharest, this time on the site of the old Vio-
letas. Check the blackboard for whats on the menu - if
they have it we can recommend the burger with the
home fries. Always has a good lunchtime deal on: two
delicious courses usually priced around 20 lei.QL12,
Str. Jean Louis Calderon 34, tel. (+4) 0759 03 06 09,
www.beauty-food.ro. Open 9:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. .
BECAS KITCHEN
Following much the same path as that trodden by
Violetas Vintage Kitchen, this restaurant is a mag-
nificent place serving wonderful, home-cooked food.
The place itself is gorgeously simple in its dcor, at
once homely and welcoming. The food is fantas-
tic, with the menu changing more or less every day:
check the blackboard for todays specials. You can
also buy homemade jams, pickles and the like. Terrific.
QK10, Str. Mihai Eminescu 80, MPiata Romana,
tel. (+4) 0744 34 47 00/(+4) 0722 30 89 60, www.
becaskitchen.ro. Open 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 -
22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . PSW
METUKA
Slow Food in every sense of the phrase: the food is
seasonal, all prepared fresh, and made from locally-
sourced ingredients. It also comes at a fair price: both
to you and to the suppliers. The menu changes every
day, but there is always a good choice for either lunch
or dinner (soups, finger food and more substantial
dishes), as well as some terrific desserts. Well worth
a visit.QJ10, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 7, MPiata Ro
mana, tel. (+4) 021 311 40 48/(+4) 0740 05 55 49,
www.metuka.ro. Open 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
. PVBSW
PUKKA TUKKA
No bigger than a coffee bar this place serves a limited
selection of food (salads, soups and a couple of main
courses - including a decent steak). Its all a little pricer
than you might expect, although the management
claim that everything - from the meat to the coffee,
juice and even the beer - is organic and ethically-
sourced. Thats its main selling point really, a fact that
the hipsters who throng here appear to confirm. Prices
are cheaper if you take-away, and there is also a shop
next door selling a huge range of organic produce.
QJ11, Str. Piata Amzei 13, tel. (+40) 733 14 50 34,
www.pukkatukka.ro. Open 09:00 - 24:00. .
PBSW
24 Bucharest In Your Pocket
supremely healthy eating. You can feast on a great range
of dishes from across the region, there are some fine wines
and its all done with that magical Radisson swish.QI12,
Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) 021 311 90
00. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PL
MEXICAN/TEX MEX
EL TORITO
Tex-Mex as it should be: spicy, tasty but free of frills. Ex-
pect the biggest and best burrittos in the city, topped with
lashings of tangy cheese; sizzlingly hot fajitas, no fewer
than eight types of taco and - best of all - that splendid
Mexican staple so often forgotten or passed over as being
dull: cream of corn soup. The super nachos are worth try-
ing too: filled with ground beef the portion is big enough
to serve as a main course. In fact, beware: all the portions
here are supersized. Though you would be a fool to forego
a nosh here, if you just fancy a drink at the bar nobody
seems to mind. Let the margaritas and the mojitos flow.
QO12, Str. Iancu Capitanu 30, tel. (+4) 021 252 66 88/
(+4) 0728 17 60 59, www.eltorito.ro. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PVESW
MODERN EUROPEAN
BLOOM BISTRO & BAR
Good food indeed. Perhaps the best restaurant to open in
central Bucharest (it is in a perfect location a stones throw
form the Hilton and the Radisson) for quite some time.
Great steaks, lamb chops, chicken and pork, some ace
burgers (including a vegetarian option) and superb fish
(the rosemary bream fillet is a must) top a menu comple-
mented by some outrageously inventive salads. Desserts
are splendid, the chocolate banana cake being just one of
many you will be more than tempted to try. Well worth
the money. Lets Bloom This Night - burgers, wine, beer
and cocktails - every Friday at 20:00.QJ11, Str. George
Enescu 10, MRomana, tel. (+4) 031 425 73 68, www.
bloomgoodfood.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . PL
VEBSW
CAF ATHNE
We love this place. In so many ways it is Bucharests vil-
lage pub, where the city comes to meet and have a ter-
rific breakfast, lunch or early dinner. The new menus offer
something for everyone, from a delicious Romanian break-
fast showcasing some of the countrys finest produce to
more sophisticated, French-inspired dishes served later in
the day: look out for the daily specials chalked up on the
blackboard. Ever-presents we have tasted and adored in-
clude rilletes de canard, escargots a lAlsacienne, coquille
St. Jacques and a cracking le cassoulet de Castelnaudar
which uses duck instead of mutton. There is also a bigger,
wider range of coffee, beer, wine and cocktails then ever,
not to mention a hot chocolate deserving of an award.
QJ12, Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athne Palace Hilton), tel.
(+4) 021 303 37 77, www.hiltonbucharest.com. Open
08:00-23:00. . PESW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
NOA RESTOCLUB By day this is an excellent restaurant,
perfect for lunch and dinner, serving a decent range of
careful crafted yet casual dishes in a thoroughly contem-
porary setting, complete with modern, simplistic design.
The food is influenced by French and Asian cuisine, and it
does a great burger and a number of delicious salads: all
cheaper than you would expect given the way the place
looks. After 22:00 this place turns seamlessly from restau-
rant to club, as the party people arrive and take over, ready
to chill out into the early hours. Puts on a host of events,
from jazz to DJs. Find it on Calea Victoriei on the edge of
the Old Town.QJ14, Calea Victoriei 26, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0799 74 75 57. Open 12:30 - 24:00, Wed, Fri, Sat
12:30 - 05:00. . PJLEBW

PRIME STEAKS & SEAFOOD

Boasting a menu put together by Executive Chef Bernd
Kirsch, who has been in charge of the kitchen here since
Prime opened more than six years ago, what is perhaps
Bucharests best restaurant recently got better. Now serv-
ing the finest fillet steak in the world (the Irish Hereford
Prime - which we can tell you, as we have eaten it, is amaz-
ing), we can also recommend the duet of foie gras with
raspberry mousse and caremelized pineapple, the grilled
scallops and the lobster bisque. And just about everything
else. Its genuinely amazing this place, and worth every last
penny.QI12, Calea Victoriei 63-81 (Radisson Blu), tel.
(+4) 021 311 90 00/(+4) 021 601 34 02, www.tasteofblu.
ro. Open 12:30-15.00, 18.00-23.00, Sat 18:00-23:00.
Closed Sun. . PL

STEJARII POOL CLUB One of Bucharests consistently

best restaurants is the work of chef Martin White, and is
found in the heart of the Baneasa forest, in the Stejarii
Country Club. The exquisite menu is a mix of tastes and
changes regularly, as only the freshest available seasonal
ingredients are used. The warm foie gras with caramelised
apple was a highlight of our visit, while the monkfish fillet
with ratatouille was a real treat. There is plenty of casual
food available too, including a great gourmet burger and
exemplary pizzas. There is usually a special steak night on
Wednesdays, wine tasting on Thursdays while on Friday
the set-price, set-menu Chefs Dinner is not to be missed.
Added points for serving a wide range of wine by the glass.
QStr. Jandarmeriei 14A, tel. (+4) 0741 50 08 00, www.
stejariipoolclub.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
18:00. . PTHFLEBCW

THE ARTIST
The Artist is back. Having been forced to move out of its
former location in the Old Town, Dutch chef Paul Oppen-
kamp has landed on his feet. Now in a large, stylish and
gorgeously eclectic 1880s villa on Calea Victoriei - which
has been given a contemporary twist - this amazing res-
taurant is even more special than before. Currently open
on a soft basis the menu is a pick of some of Pauls finest
and most popular dishes, including his own take on sour
vegetable soup, pork belly confit and the amazing cucum-
ber sorbet. There is a spoon tasting menu for those who
26 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

want to try all the main courses currently being served.
Prices reflect the high quality.QH10, Calea Victoriei
147, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 0728 31 88 71, www.
theartist.ro. Open 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Kitchen
closes at 22:30. . PJHBW and in a city where standards rise only to fall so often, Casa
MOLDOVAN
LA PLACINTE
Popular Moldovan chain of eateries (there are more than
10 of these restaurants in Chisinau) comes to the centre of
Bucharest. Charmingly decorated in a brilliant mix of tradi-
tional and hip you will love it the moment you walk in. The
food is good, and as the name suggests (placinte means
pies) there is a big range of pie on offer: potato pie, cheese
pie, pumpkin pie and even apple pie. They are all good,
made fresh (so you might have to wait a bit) and come
served piping hot. There is much else besides, including
the entirely recommended pelmeni, and the Moldovan
version of mici. Part of the same place is Andys Pizza:
while good, the pies are better.QJ10, B-dul I. C. Bra
tianu 10, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0753 04 55 66, www.
laplacinte.ro. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Also at J-10, B-dul Da
cia 20; J-11, B-dul Magheru 26; K-9, Sos. Stefan Cel Mare
38; and I-1, Str. Nicolae Caranfil 49. . PJSW 0772 03 90 02, www.ciorbaria.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00,
ROMANIAN
Romanian food is really quite good. We have a wide selec-
tion of Bucharests best Romanian restaurants right here.
CARU CU BERE Should probably be the first stop on
the food and drink list of any visitor to Bucharest. Wonder-
ful interiors painted ceilings, ornate woodwork make
the place an attraction in itself, but do not leave without
trying some food. The breakfast is worth getting up early
for, the sarmale with mamaliga terrific, and the baked ap-
ple a simple, tasty treat. They even serve their own rather
good beer. The service is usually good (now: it never used
to be; back in the 1980s and 1990s it was infamously bad)
and there is a terrace in summer.QJ14, Str. Stavropoleos
5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 60/(+4) 0726 28
23 73, www.carucubere.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. . PJESW LEBW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Restaurants
CASA DOINA Alma mater of Romanian restaurants, an
integral part of the citys rich tapestry. This classy place
pulls in the cream of Bucharest society, served by charm-
ing, splendid waiters in smart dress. The food is superb,
Doina can be considered a paragon of consistency. The
location is worthy of the food, on posh Soseaua Kiseleff
in a quiet, leafy, withdrawn setting. The splendid terrace
is an absolute joy when the weather allows.QG7, Sos.
Kiseleff 4, tel. (+4) 021 222 67 17/(+4) 0745 00 90 09,
www.casadoina.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . PLE
BSW
NEW
CIORBARIE Ask just about any foreigner in Romania
what the best thing about local cuisine is, and the chances
are you will be told ciorba, the sour soup that comes in
a wide variety of assortments and flavours depending on
which ingredients are used. And what does this magic
little place sell? Ciorba. Just ciorba. Seven or eight dif-
ferent ones each day, made fresh and served with crusty
bread and smantana. Only has a few seats so you might
have to take away. Will also deliver if you are close enough.
QJ9, Calea Dorobanti 73, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4)
Sat 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. . VNS
CORSO BRASSERIE & TERRACE
Occupying the best location in the city centre, with views
on to Bucharests busiest street, this gem of a restaurant
is open for breakfast and lunch, as well as brunch each
Sunday. The lunch - often a buffet - is a hit with business
types, while the seats by the window offer one of the
best people-watching spots Bucharest has to offer. And
then theres the Sunday Brunch, which is consistently the
finest in the city. Given the high standard of the opposi-
tion, thats praise indeed. Corso can be hired for private
parties and receptions.QK13, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu 4
(InterContinental), MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20
20. Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, Sat 06:30 - 11:30,
12:00 - 16:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30. 12:00 - 16:30. . Sun
day Brunch 12:00 - 16:00, 210 lei/pers, children under
six free, children between six and 12 half price. PT
April - May 2017 27
 Restaurants
GOOD OLD TIMES (GOLDEN TULIP TIMES HO-
TEL) A very good restaurant indeed. Featuring a very
wide range of Romanian and international dishes, the
menu here changes regularly, usually in time with the sea-
sons. Of the perennials, the lamb chops encrusted with a
mix of herbs and served with minted peas are fabulous.
The young chef is not afraid to try something new and
different, and note that if you fancy something which is
not on the menu, dont be afraid to ask. Good local wine
list, and they even run cooking classes if you want to learn
even more about local food. Note the last kitchen order
is at 22:30.QE6, B-dul Decebal 19, MPiata Muncii,
tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.restauranttimes.ro. Open
12:00 - 23:00. . PLSW Big money has been spent making the place look fantas-
HANUL LUI MANUC (HANUL MANUC, MANUCS
INN) Built in 1808 the enormous, three-level Hanul lui
Manuc (Manucs Inn) is one of Europes last remaining car-
avanserai. The interior courtyard is a spectacular sight and
essential for any visitor to Bucharest, not least the grand
staircase to your left as you enter from Strada Franceza.
During colder months head down into the crama (cellar):
note that at the weekend especially you will need a reser-
vation. A hostelry ever since it opened the Han is now run
by the City Grill group and has seldom been better. Serves
good, simple Romanian food (the mici are excellent, as is
the enormous lamb shank - enough for two people) and
a more than decent pint. A must.QK15, Str. Franceza,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 14 11/(+4) 0769 07 58
44, www.hanulluimanuc.ro. Open 11:00 - 01:00. .
PTJEBSW the US. The Tomahawk steak - weighing in at nearly a kilo
LACRIMI SI SFINTI Romanian poet, revolutionary and
raconteur Mircea Dinescus latest culinary adventure is this
classy and rather big place in the Old Town. As much a
showcase for the (very good) wines Dinescu produces on
his country estate as anything else, the food is good: a se-
lection of traditional Romanian dishes given a playful twist,
with a big focus on game. Indeed, just about everything
served here comes from Dinescus own estate. The roasted
duck with cabbage and the courgette patties are our par-
ticular favourites on the menu: look out for the daily specials
(chalked up on a blackboard) too. The prices are decent
enough - although not cheap, but quality this high never
28 Bucharest In Your Pocket
can be - and the place is charmingly decorated (look out
for the quirky signs for the loos, made from Lego). You will
want to stay way after you have finished your meal.QK15,
Str. Sepcari 16, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0372 77 39 99/(+4)
0725 55 82 86, www.lacrimisisfinti.com. Open 12:30 -
02:00, Mon 18:00 - 02:00. . PJESW
SEAFOOD
PESCARUS The City Grill boys have done it again. Having
previously transformed Caru cu bere from a disaster into a
decent restaurant they have done the same with Pescarus,
an iconic fish restaurant on the shore of Lake Herastrau.
tic, and the menu is a superb mix of local and imported
fish and seafood. The sour fish soup is genuinely fantastic,
the pots of fresh mussels big and steamy, and the platter
of fried fish intended for two easily feeds four. As with all
City Grill venues, prices are kept as reasonable as possible.
QH3, B-dul Aviatorilor 1, tel. (+4) 0731 33 00 34/(+4)
0737 99 90 69, www.restaurantpescarus.ro. Open 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. . PESW
STEAK HOUSES
JW STEAKHOUSE BUCHAREST The JW Marriott
hosts one of Bucharests best chophouses: the JW Steak-
house, only the second such signature venue to open in
Europe. You can expect a very American steakhouse expe-
rience, right down to the Black Angus beef imported from
- is the pick of the steaks, but there is much more besides,
including broiled lobster and Australian lamb chops. There
is a great selection of new world wines, and they open ear-
ly for breakfast: the American pancakes and eggs Benedict
are a great option to start the day with. Note that JW is
closed Saturday lunchtime, and for dinner Sunday evening.
QF16, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest
Grand Hotel), MIzvor/Eroilor, tel. (+4) 021 403 19 03,
www.jwbucharestcollection.ro/jw-steakhouse. Open
06:30 - 11:00, 12:30 - 16:00, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 06:30 -
11:00, 18:30 - 23:30. . Sunday Brunch 12:30 - 16:00,
225 lei/pers, children between six and twelve half
price, children under six free. PLESW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Restaurants
OSHO Sometimes when writing a review, all you really
want to write is this place is brilliant. This is a butchers
shop and restaurant serving a range of fine steaks you
would walk an awfully long way for. There is more than
steak on the menu though, such as a number of top burg-
ers, tangy lamb chops and a selection of fresh fish. We also
have to admit to being pleasantly surprised about the pric-
es: given the location (this is Beverly Hills, Bucharest) they
are more than reasonable considering you get the best of
the best. QH5, B-dul Primaverii 19-21, MAviatorilor,
tel. (+4) 021 568 30 31/(+4) 021 568 30 32, www.osho-
restaurant.ro. Open 10:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. . PTVBSW

VACAMUUU One of the most talked-about chophouses

in the city. Serving a range of steaks so wide and so good
that even the most jaded of beefeaters will be drooling
over the selection on the menu, you can also feast on lamb
and veal, while the burgers are a match for anywhere else
in Bucharest. All of the cuts you would expect to find are
here, and there is a long list of aged steaks. There is a kids
menu, and the desserts are as impressive as the beef: the
cheesecake especially. Almost all of the meat can be bought
to take home and cook yourself from the butchers section
should you wish. The daily lunchtime set menu is a bargain.
QK7, Calea Floreasca 111, tel. (+4) 0731 35 11 35, www.
vacamuuu.com. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Also Vacamuuu 2 at Calea Floreasca 175 (Global Worth
Tower), tel. (+4) 0799 88 86 96. . PTSW

THAI
NEW
TUK TUK Chef Chaiyasith Srichom - who you may well re-
member from his days at one of the citys top hotels - is the
talent behind this place, perhaps the finest Thai restaurant
ever to open in Bucharest. The menu (developing all the
time, with new dishes being added by the week) is already
a thing of wonder, featuring delicious curries, noodles and
seafood, of which the Masaman curry was our pick. Service
comes from smiley, friendly, colourfully dressed waitresses.
Located in Dorobanti it occupies the space that used to be
the London Street Bistro. You will love it.QJ7, Str. Putul lui
Zamfir 15, tel. (+4) 031 109 96 70. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. . PTBSW

VEGAN
BARCA Vegan and raw vegan food like youve never
tasted. So good in fact that even the most fervent meat
eaters will leave happy. There is a wide range of soups (the
coconut soup being our favourite) as well as pasta and sal-
ad. Of the main meals the lentil risotto with avocado was
fabulous, and the desserts are an inventive treat. Barca will
deliver - to home or office - and many of the ingredients
can be bought right here. QG7, Str. Emanoil Porumbaru
9, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 0720 92 82 78/(+4) 0747 59
47 18, www.restaurantbarca.ro. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Sun. . PVBSW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 29
 Cafes
ACUARELA A small bistro and loft cafe at the Imbold Gal-
lery and Foundation, a creative community hub for artists
from a number of fields. In warm weather the courtyard
becomes one of the most colourful and buzzing venues in
Bucharest, something of an instant legend not just for the
good food and drink but for the multi-coloured umbrellas
which are Acuarelas trademark. Live music (especially jazz),
loads of cultural events and a regular crowd of great young
people make this a hit throughout the summer. Note that
there are no signs suggesting the place is here: just look for
the umbrellas!QK10, Str. Polona 40, tel. (+4) 0745 66 28
89, www.acuarelabistro.ro. Open 17:00 - 01:00. PT
6EBW

CAFE & GRADINA VERONA Sublime. At the brilliant

Carturesti bookshop is this delightful place serving coffee,
teas, cocktails, beer and a vast range of fabulous lemon-
ade. There is also good food, both from an a la carte menu
as well as terrific value set lunch deals. We should point
out that it has one of the best selections of vegan dishes
in the city (including delicious vegetable noodles, a good
korma and decent humus). Service is always great from
the top staff, and there is often a cultural event happening
(including occasional live music). Given how popular the
place is (particularly the amazing garden/courtyard, which
this winter is fully enclosed) we suggest making a reserva-
tion if you want a table.QJ11, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona
13-15, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0732 00 30 60. Open
09:00 - 24:00. PEBSW

CAFE TIMES Serves one of the best breakfasts in Bucha-

rest, and plenty more besides. There is top coffee and a
can-do attitude from the staff who appear to realise that
sometimes people are busy, and need their fix double
quick. Not every cafe in Bucharest does realise that... Hav-
ing said that, this is the kind of laid-back place that you end
up spending the whole afternoon in, no matter how busy
you are, not least as the chef, Constantin Ianculescu, has a
number of treats waiting on his new menu.QB-dul Dece
bal 19, MPiata Muncii, tel. (+4) 031 224 80 16, www.
cafetimes.ro. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Open 07:30 - 24:00.
PLESW

CAMERA DIN FATA One of the best cafes in Bucharest.

The name means Front room, and being here is in many
ways just like being somebodys front room. Great coffee
and tea served in great mugs from gorgeous tea pots at ta-
bles which fill up early as the world pops in for espresso on
its way to work. Theres wine, and cocktails, too, and many
people will insist the place is even better in the evening.
You will usually need a reservation.QJ11, Str. Mendeleev
22, tel. (+4) 021 311 15 12, www.cameradinfata.ro.
Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00,
Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PSW

CEAINARIA INFINITEA In leafy Cotroceni (not far from

the JW Marriott) this is one of the best tea houses in the
city, if not the entire country. A gorgeous place decorated
with bags of bohemian charm it is the very definition
30 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com

of urban oasis. If you are looking for civilised company,
peace and quiet and outstanding tea then you cant go
wrong here. Theres a decent range of cakes and desserts,
and often a little light, live music.QE15, Str. Dr. Grigore
Romniceanu 7, tel. (+4) 723 17 53 00, www.infinitea.ro.
Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTE
BW
FRUDISIAC Minimalist yet strikingly designed, this is
a cafe, juice bar and breakfast/brunch venue all in one.
Exceedingly laid back, it serves the best hot chocolate
in town alongside a wide range of juices, smoothies and
some excellent light meals, it has become an instant hit
with those people lucky enough to get a seat. Fortunately,
good weather heralds the opening of the courtyard,
which will see the capacity treble. A little piece of Swe-
den in the middle of Dorobanti.QJ7, Str. Intrarea Bitolia
4, tel. (+4) 021 231 04 11/(+4) 0730 64 19 43. Open 08:00
- 20:00. Pi W
GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH
Bucharests default meet you there venue. Its genius
is that its ideal at every time of day: morning coffee or
breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows, a casual
lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a late night
at the bar. The food is good - simple and very reasonably
priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly caf is a winner:
you will go back more than once. It does a great brunch
on Saturday and Sunday from 10:00-16:00 (way cheaper
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Cafs
than the big hotels, and free for under-10s) and we should
also mention that van Gogh stays open late at the week-
end, offering a very decent after-party food menu.QK14,
Str. Smardan 9, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 107 63 71,
www.vangogh.ro. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00,
Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PJSW
M60 Elegant, contemporary cafe in an enviable city cen-
tre location. Eclectically furnished, parts of it feel like an
office, parts of it feel like your living room and other bits
resemble an upmarket diner: there is something for ev-
eryone. Coffee (their own blend), a craft beer and wine by
the glass, alongside light meals and desserts. All very nice,
all very chic and all very popular: at weekends the place is
full. Worth your time.QJ11, Str. Mendeleev 2, MPiata
Romana, tel. (+4) 031 410 00 10, www.m60cafe.tumblr.
com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PW
ORIGO
A contender for the title of best coffee shop in Bucharest.
This place is all about great coffee from all over the world,
as well as a fairly decent selection of tea too. Many of the
more exotic coffees can be bought by the packet to make
at home, and the design of the place is not too shabby
either: its contemporary, bright and the coffee cups hang-
ing down over the bar are a nice touch. Theres relaxing
music, cocktails and usually a good crowd.QJ14, Str. Lip
scani 9, tel. (+4) 0757 08 66 89. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Sat
09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PSW
April - May 2017 31
 Cafs
ROMANIAN BEER
Romania has a long, proud history of brewing good beer,
and while today there are just 20 breweries in the coun-
try (there were more than 120 breweries in 1989), such
statistics do not tell the whole story of beer in Romania,
which is far from being a sorry one. With large amounts of
investment from big foreign brewers the countrys best
known beers have been saved from extinction and im-
proved, and in a number of cases new brews launched:
the current trend for unfiltered and lemon beers is one
such example. Fortunately for the visitor, improvements
in quality have not increased prices: Romania remains
home to one of the cheapest pints of beer in Europe.
The best known local brands of beer are probably Ursus,
Ciuc and Timisoreana. Ursus has been brewed since the
1870s, and if you ask locals what the national beer is, most
will respond Ursus. Both Ursus and Timisoreana (brewed
since 1718) are now owned by SAB Miller, which also pro-
duces the smaller brands Ciucas, Azuga and Stejar. Ciuc
(along with Silva) is owned by Heineken, while Carlsbergs
locally brewed Tuborg is also ubiquitous and popular. Oth-
er notable beers include Interbrews Bergenbier.
Unfiltered wheat beers (bere nefiltrata) are very popular
in Romania, the best probably being Ciucs, though you
should also keep a look out for Paulaners white beer, found
on tap in a number of Bucharest bars and pubs.
Also worth trying is the dark, bitter Ursus Black, a very
different beer to most local brews. Silvas Strong Dark
is similar and equally good. A few venues in Bucharest
have microbreweries, producing their own beer, or at
least serve their own bespoke brew made elsewhere:
Caru cu bere and Oktoberfest are two such places. There
arent that many craft beers in Romania, but there are a
few if you know where to look. If you get the chance,
Zaguna is excellent. There is also an outstanding local
cider to look out for: Clarks, made in Transylvania by an
Englishman using 100 per cent Romanian apples.
Imported beers are popular amongst young, wealthy
urbanites, and you should never have too much trou-
ble finding the major international brands: Heineken,
Carlsberg, Peroni, Leffe, Hoegaarden and Stella Artois are
all popular in Romania. And while imported beer is usu-
ally a couple of lei more expensive than the local stuff,
no beer in Romania is likely to cost more than 10-12 lei,
even in a club or trendy bar. A pint (or the local equiva-
lent) of local draught beer costs from 7-8 lei, often even
cheaper. The one exception is Guinness. Found all over
the country (it is very popular amongst Romanians) it is
also relatively expensive, upwards of 15 lei per pint.
Key Romanian words on the beer front include la halba
(draught) and la sticla (bottled). In most bars and restau-
rants the menu lists draught and bottled beers separately.
32 Bucharest In Your Pocket
DIANEI 4
DIANEI 4 Serving amazing breakfast, lunch and din-
ner alongside a wide range of superb coffee, craft beer
and fine wines (all available by the glass) it is difficult
to know where to start with this place. It is located in a
large 19th-century house a short walk from Piata Uni-
versitatii and is quite gorgeous. A cafe, bistro and wine
bar rolled into one, it is perhaps the loveliest venue in
the city centre. Indeed the terrace/garden is one of
our fave spots in Bucharest: if you go you will see why.
The brunch from 10:00-15:00 throughout the week is
well worth trying: there are various options, includ-
ing bratwurst and egg, grilled halloumi salad and an
egg white garden omelette. Later in the day go for the
goulash: its Dianei 4s signature dish and perhaps Bu-
charests best.QL13, Str. Dianei 4, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 0745 20 81 86, www.dianei4.translucid.ro.
Open 08:30 - 00:15, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 00:15. PT
LEBW
SERENDIPITY TEA HOUSE Tea, and lots of it. There are
more than 55 types of tea available, including the trade-
mark Serendipity, an aromatic yet fruity green tea with
more than a hint of strawberries. A quiet location just off
an otherwise busy central street make this a superb choice
for long, peaceful afternoons reading a good book with a
great cup of tea or two. Oh, and we should point out that
the coffee menu is not bad either.QL11, Str. Dumbrava
Rosie 12, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0743 28 33 42/(+4)
0371 43 39 61, www.serendipity-tea.ro. Open 14:00 -
00:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. TEW
STARBUCKS HANUL LUI MANUC
Starbucks has been a feature of Bucharests malls for some
time now, but this is the first city centre location, and al-
ready its the franchises most popular. Doesnt look much
like your average Starbucks - possibly part of the attrac-
tion - it is situated in the historic Hanul lui Manuc, an inn
dating from the 19th century. Rest assured you can still get
your hands on a superb Starbucks coffee, however, and all
in the company of the citys trendiest people, who throng
here.QK15, Str. Franceza 62, MPiata Unirii, www.
starbucksromania.ro. Open 08:00 - 23:30. PJSW
SUBSOL BAR Perhaps the most iconic building in Bucha-
rest. Inside the shell of an old house destroyed during the
1989 revolution a new building has risen, home - fittingly
- to Romanias architectural association. The cafe (and bar)
which occupies part of the building is more than worthy
of its location, a contemporary space with walls decorated
with scenes from the revolution, where you can enjoy cof-
fee and cocktails in the company of a good young crowd.
There are tasty sandwiches too, which can be taken away
if you are in a hurry.QJ12, Str. Demetru Ion Dobrescu 5,
MUniversitate, tel. +(4) 021 315 60 98, www.subsolbar.
ro. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PSW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Cafs
CARTURESTI CARUSEL
Bucharests most impressive bookshop is this wonderful
building on Strada Lipscani. Dating from the latter part
of the 19th century the building was home to a depart-
ment store during the communist era, before standing
neglected for almost a quarter of century until reopening
last year after a long renovation. And what a renovation:
the building has been brought back to life by Carturestis
team of architects and is that impressive that you must
pop in to have a look. Besides the tens of thousands of
books and gifts on sale there is gallery and exhibition
space, and a rather good bistro on the top floorQK-14,
Str. Lipscani 55, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0728 82 89 22,
www.carturesticarusel.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. J

THE URBANIST Cafe and bar doing a sideline in trainers

and denim, or a fashion shop selling coffee and cocktails.
Either way you look at it, Urbanist is as cool a place as they
come in Bucharest, and as a result very popular with the
hippest types in the city. Mainly used as a pre-club warm-
up venue, it is not unusual at the weekend to see live acts
and DJs performing here in what is a more intimate and
relaxed venue than most are used to. Prices decent, and
theres a good selection of snacks and light meals: very
good breakfast spot.QK15, Str. Caldarari 3. Open 08:00 -
24:00. PEBSW

TUCANO COFFEE One of Bucharests most talked-

about cafes, not least for the fact that it serves amazing
cheesecake and its freshly roasted speciality Arabica cof-
fee. This is much more than a simple caf however: it puts
on all sorts events, both for kids at the weekends and for us
grown ups in the evenings. It hosts yard sales, book clubs,
workshops, music evenings and film nights. Bohemian
and non-conformist it is Bucharest at its best. Find the
original next to the British Council, and a newer but no less
excellent branch in the Old Town.QK10, Calea Doroban
tilor 18, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0769 27 15 52, www.
tucanocoffee.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00, Also at (K-14) Str. Lipscani 79, tel.
(+4) 0763.032.930. PEBSW

VANFRUCT
A refreshingly non-conformist cafe, coffee shop and juice
bar close to the city centre. The setting is a quirky mix of
contemporary and organic, with all sorts of plants placed
strategically around the bar, tables and even suspended
from the walls. Besides the drinks there is usually a range
of light meals available: waffles, quiche, salad and that kind
of thing. Its all seasonal and the organic hot chocolate is
the pick of the winter collection. Well worth your time,
it attracts an eclectic bunch of trendies.QJ13, Str. Ion
Campineanu 21, tel. (+4) 0799 62 48 34, www.vanfruct.
ro. Open 08:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Z6
SW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 33
 Nightlife
ROMANIAS TOP GENTLEMANS CLUB
FOR MORE THAN 15 YEARS
LIVE MUSIC & SHOW EVERY NIGHT
HOTTEST GIRLS & DANCERS IN ROMANIA

Buckingham Gentlemans Club

Strada D.I. Mendeleev 3 (Piata Romana)
Tel. (+4) 0733 375 549 & (+4) 0764 575 308
Call and reserve for free transport
www.buckingham.ro
www.buckingham.ro
Of all the wonderful things that Bucharest has to of food, including some reasonably priced and very good
offer, nightlife is not the least of them. There is burgers, great salads and a decent set lunch menu. Then
something for everyone in this town: and we mean theres the coffee: its their own special blend and is one of
everyone. From trendy bars to Irish pubs, lounge the best in the city. The terrace out front is enormous, and
clubs and jazz clubs and the odd steamy strip show. its the kind of place you could well spend the entire eve-
Nor will you have to worry about wandering the ning. Occasional live music from local bands.QJ15, Str. Sf.
streets late at night. Dumitru 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 315 66 99, www.
distrikt42.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 04:00,
BARS: COCKTAILS & QUIRKY Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PTJBSW
A3 Successor of the hipsters favourite, A1, which closed
last year, A3 is located not all that far away, on Strada FIXMAD This place, calling itself a botanical bar takes cre-
Mendeleev. Going for exactly the same look and feel as ating carefully crafted drinks very seriously. Serves a range
the original (they have even brought over much of the A1 of unique cocktails (with and without alcohol), craft beers,
decor, including the pinball tables) this latest incarnation juices and fine wines in a setting which sets it apart from
is of course much bigger and not quite as quirky. That said, just about every other bar in the city. The staff are fabulous
the crowd is still the same: young, friendly, hedonistic and and genuinely know their stuff, and the crowd that has
impeccably well-dressed. There is also more food than be- quickly made itself at home here is as trendy yet welcom-
fore: some of the pasta is excellent, in fact. Relaxed and ing as they come in this town. Youll love it. (By the way, the
cool without ever quite hitting the heights of the original, Mad bit in the name stands for me a drink).QJ13, Str. Ion
we nevertheless recommend the place as somewhere to Brezoianu 23-25, tel. (+4) 0771 70 78 69, www.fixmad.
get to know open-minded locals.QJ11, Str. Mendeleev com. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon.
29, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 0728 62 68 44. Open
08:00 - 01:30. PENBSW INTERBELIC Having moved from its previous, hidden lo-
cation you could have forgiven this now legendary bar for
DISTRIKT 42 This striking establishment is the first steam going mainstream: the good news it that it hasnt. Interbelic
punk venue in Romania. It is certainly quirky, packed as it still has that speakeasy feel, like a well-kept secret amongst
is with all sorts of weird and wonderful objects that could people in the know. The new location is bigger, serves food,
well end up being used as props in the next Mad Max has live music some evenings but is still first choice to bring
film. Far more than a cocktail bar there is a decent range somebody to impress them with your insiders knowledge
of Bucharest.QK14, Calea Victoriei 17, MUniversitate,

ARTEMIS
tel. (+4) 0722 10 01 93, www.interbelic.ro. Open 17:00 -
02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PJENW

adult massage LABORATORUL DE COCKTAILURI A cocktail bar

(there is beer too, of course, on tap, as well as hundreds
of teas) where everything has been thought out to the
free transport hotel visits minutest detail. The name means Cocktail Factory, so
free mini-bar luxury location
you get your Tom Collins or Mojito or whatever takes your
fancy in a conical flask, while the bar itself looks like an old
www.masajclub.ro
pharmacy. Unusually, they have even invested in decent
www.masajartemis.ro
bar stools. Trendy without overdoing it. Commendable.
Tel. (+4) 0727 861 111
QK14, Str. Stavropoleos 8, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
Str. General Constantin Coanda 27, Sector 1
0737 35 67 46, www.laboratordecocktailuri.ro. Open
17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PJENW
34 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife

LOKAL Not five minutes from the city centre this won-
derful place is something of an oasis of peace and quiet
amid the chaos of Bucharests urban concrete nightmare.
An enormous villa built at the start of the 20th century
which at first glance appears to comprise several thousand
rooms plays host to one of the quirkier bars and eateries in
the Romanian capital. Each room is packed with an eclec-
tic collection of antiques from various eras, from huge So-
viet radio sets to early typewriters. The large garden is put
to excellent use in summer and makes a real change from
the busier locales elsewhere. Prices are decent and the at-
mosphere made all the better by the crowd that gathers
here: a bit older and more laid-back than usual. We love
it.QK10, Str. Mihai Eminescu 57A, MPiata Romana, tel.
(+4) 0732 450 658. Open 16:00 - 01:00. TLEBW
ENGLISH BAR
One of our regular haunts. This little corner of the Hilton
that will forever be associated with intrigue and spies (it
has been around for more than a century, as long as the
hotel) remains today a classy bar serving champagne by
the glass and much else besides (including a tremendous
pint of Guinness). Packed most days with business lead-
ers it also regularly hosts casual parties, and on some
Thursday nights theres even live jazz, as this little bar be-
comes the most happening venue in town, a favourite of
Bucharests party set. An essential part of your trip to the
Romanian capital, all we can say is get here now.QJ12,
Str. Episcopiei 1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021
303 37 77. Open 11:00 - 02:00. PLW

BARS: UPMARKET
E3 How popular is this place? Well, to give you an idea, we
know for a fact that if you do not make a reservation on Fri-
day or Saturday night it will require the personal interven-
tion of the owner to get you a table: if youre lucky. If Flore-
asca is the new throbbing heart of Bucharest nightlife, this
place is the throbbing heart of Floreasca. Serves simple yet
delicious modern European food (the E3 cheeseburger is
a winner) alongside a range of drinks as cool as the venue.
Top wine list, as you would expect. Not cheap, that is kind
of the point. Get there.QK7, Calea Floreasca 111-113, tel.
(+4) 0734 96 68 89, www.byentourage.ro. Open 12:00 -
01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PBW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 35
 Nightlife
INTERMEZZO PIANO BAR
Legendary and rather historic hotel bar in the lobby of
the Inter, which was a den of iniquity and intrigue during
the communist period, all spies and journalists, plots and
honey traps. Now its merely a very cool place to meet and
have lunch (courtesy of its chefs inspiration range) or a
sophisticated drink (perhaps during on the regular eve-
ning activities) in superb surroundings. Another one of the
many reasons why the InterContinental is one of the top
places in Bucharest to spend time.QK13, B-dul Nicolae
Blcescu 4 (Hotel InterContinental), MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
NOMAD SKYBAR
This place is ace: a design sensation making fantastic use
of an amazing loft in Bucharests Old Town which does
indeed look upon the sky via its mainly glass roof. There
is a range of events, be it live music of various sorts or DJs
spinning tunes, and besides drinks there is a rather decent
selection of outstanding food. It has been a hit since it first
opened last year and we expect it to stay popular for many
years to come. Oh and yes, the entrance is indeed that
glass lift. Get there now.QK15, Str. Smardan 30, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0735 44 80 80. Open 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 06:00. PJEBW
PAVILION LOUNGE
The JW Marriotts lobby bar is a suitably stylish, bright and
contemporary venue boasting one of the most elegant
designs in the city. There are various seating areas, from
the stools at the bar to comfy sofas and armchairs. Throw
in a top cocktail list and great staff and it all means that
the citys other business bars have some real competi-
tion at last. Worth pointing out too that if its high-quality
bourbon you are after, upstairs in the JW Steakhouse you
will find a bar dedicated to the stuff.QF16, Calea 13 Sep
tembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel.
(+4) 021 403 19 04, www.jwbucharestcollection.ro/
pavilion-lounge. Open 08:00 - 01:00. PLEW
SILK SKY BAR One of Bucharests genuine hidden gems.
On the top floor of the itself rather discrete Z Boutique Ho-
tel you are unlikely to see this place in passing: you need to
know about it in advance. You can therefore really impress
36 Bucharest In Your Pocket
people with your inside knowledge of Bucharest by bring-
ing them here. Expect drinks, good food, an in-the-know
crowd and fine views over Piata Universitatii.QK14, Str.
Ion Nistor 4 (Z Boutique Hotel), MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
0722 55 55 05. Open 10:00 - 2:00. J
THE DRUNKEN LORDS
Its more than alright this place: well worth looking out
for. In a side street between Lipscani and Blanari, you will
find a good, lively pub playing decent music and offering
a vibe a little more upmarket than most other places in the
Old Town (especially those in and around this little alley-
way). Hosts live music, sports and regular cultural events.
Very cool, and in warmer weather everyone gathers out-
side for a drink, smoke and a chat. Youll like it.QK14,
Intr. Nicolae Selari 3-5, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736
23 88 15, www.thedrunkenlords.ro. Open 12:00 - 5:00.
PJEBSW
VICE ADVICE
For visitors to Bucharest looking for a little debauchery,
there are three options, of which - take note - only one is
legal. Read this box carefully to make sure you get pulled
off and not ripped off.
The legal option (and the only option we would recom-
mend) is to head for an erotic massage at a reputable
massage parlour. You will almost certainly not be offered
sex at these places, but there is still much fun to be had,
from happy ending massages to full body massage from
one, two or even three nubile young ladies. Prices start at
around 35 though climb higher at the more central, luxu-
rious (and generally more trustworthy) establishments.
The second option is to simply go to a brothel. These
establishments usually advertise themselves as being le-
gitimate strip clubs or nightclubs, but act mainly as fronts
for illegal brothels. The deal at these places is usually as
follows: after sitting yourself down at a table you will be
served expensive drinks, before being joined by some
young ladies who will try to convince you to buy them
cocktails (usually orange juice with an umbrella, cost-
ing a fortune). After half an hour of bored conversation
you may be asked if you would like to retreat to a more
intimate location, usually a room above, or even in, the
nightclub itself. Expect to pay a minimum of 100 for the
privilege, as well buy an obligatory bottle of sparkling
wine, which usually costs at least another 50. All this
on top of your already huge tab. We suggest avoiding
anywhere calling itself a nightclub and promising girls.
Be particularly circumspect in and around the Old Town.
The third option is to call one of the escorts who adver-
tise in many of the poor quality city guides found around
town. This is completely illegal and you really ought to
think twice before picking up the phone.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
BEERHALLS
BERARIA H A former exhibition hall (one of many in Her-
astrau park; this particular one was known as Pavilion H,
hence the name of the place) was last year converted into
what the owners claim is the largest beerhall in eastern Eu-
rope. Having seen the size of the place we are inclined to
agree. There are various areas in which you can enjoy your
beer, and yet despite the size the place never feels empty.
Indeed, if there is a popular band on (there is lots of live
music here at weekends) you may have to queue to get
in if you havent got a reservation. There is a surprisingly
decent range of rather good food, and the portions are
beyond enormous.QF2, Sos. Kiseleff 32, tel. (+4) 0725
34 53 45, www.berariah.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PE
SW

CURTEA BERARILOR Once upon a time the whole of

the Curtea Sticlarilor was given over to artisans - especially
glassmakers - from whence the name. Now only a few sur-
vive and no less than four bars have opened here. This one
has given itself the rather cheeky name Curtea Berarilor
(Brewers Courtyard), though there is no brewing done on
the site. Instead make do with plenty of on-tap pints, of
which the default option is Timisoreana.QK15, Str. Se
lari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313 75 32, www.
curteaberarilor.com. Open 13:00 - 04:00, Mon, Tue, Wed
13:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJBSW

PUBS
BEER OCLOCK
This pub has probably the biggest selection of bottled
beers, ales and ciders in the city: so it is aptly named. With
brews from all over the world you could drink a different
beer every night for a month and not try the same one
twice. Whats more, besides the beer they also almost al-
ways have the appropriate glass in which to serve it: great
attention to detail. You may on occasion discover that half
the beers on the menu arent in stock, but thats half the
fun of coming here. Besides, they do always have a decent
stock of Clarks cider: made right here in Romania and the
best youll ever taste.QK15, Str. Gabroveni 4, MUni
versitate, tel. (+4) 0767 23 33 35, www.beeroclock.ro.
Open 17:00 - 02:00. PJBSW

GAY BUCHAREST
QUEENS Every Friday and Saturday night the corus-
cating Queens welcomes girls and boys of all persua-
sions, and usually puts on some kind of live show at
least once a week. Romania still has a long way to go
when it comes to gay rights, but the existence of this
place does show that progress is being made.QM13,
B-dul Carol 61, tel. (+4) 0721 01 21 00. Open 10:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 37

 Nightlife
BIUTIFUL BY THE LAKE
In leafy Herastrau, Biutiful looks better than ever. It has
managed to hang on to its vaguely industrial chic feel,
while adding an extra layer of luxury - much as you would
expect from a venue run by the Fratelli people. Good food
menu - the reasonably-priced burgers are a great pre-
clubbing feed - while there is a range of finger fare if you
get peckish late at night. If youve just come to drink, no
worries: there are cocktails-a-plenty and some first class
wines. And yes, its right on the lake.QH2, Str. Nordului
7-9, tel. (+4) 0733 50 02 22, www.biutiful.ro. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 02:00. PLBSW
BORDELLO There is always something going on here,
every night of the week. Theres also one of Bucharests
best pints of Guinness on tap and sports on four screens.
The food is great, with some rather special tapas, includ-
ing the ribs which are just about the best weve ever had in
Bucharest. At the weekends, head downstairs to the Bou-
doir, and note that upstairs is the Mulanruj Dining The-
atre, with live cabaret on Thursday, Friday and Saturday
nights. You cant miss this place by the way: just look for
the tarts in their underwear beckoning you in.QK15, Str.
Selari 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0748 88 10 85, www.
bordellos.ro. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 05:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 05:00. PJESW
ENERGIEA We like this place a lot: the high ceilings and
big windows make it a good choice day and night, the
original (we think?) tiled floor looks great and there are a
number of different rooms, not all of which carry the in-
dustrial-chic look of the main bar, good for get togethers
with larger groups. Best of all though we like the raised in-
terior balcony, which is top cocktail-sipping territory. Most
nights you will need a reservation.QJ14, Str. Brezoianu 4,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 37 44 32, www.energiea.
ro. Open 12:00 - 01:00. PLBSW
LA 100 DE BERI The name (as you might have guessed)
means 100 Beers, and thats exactly what they have here:
beer, and lots of it, from all over the world. In fact, looking
at the menu it would appear that they stock considerably
more than 100 beers, and there is more besides: shorts
and cocktails for those who dont fancy a beer. Nice long,
38 Bucharest In Your Pocket
English-style bar at which you can sit all night and sample
as many beers as you can.QK15, Str. Covaci 8, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0784 24 60 46. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. PJBW
SHIFT Its doubtful that youve seen anything like this
place in Bucharest before. Shift is a Bohemian restaurant/
bar/club of some style. It is, in a word, gorgeous, and has
been packed since opening day with the hippest and
coolest people in the land. Late at night this is the smart-
est chill-out venue in the city, and we (and just about
everybody else) love it.QK11, Str. Eremia Grigorescu 17,
tel. (+4) 021 211 22 72, www.shiftpub.ro. Open 12:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PBSW
STUDENT CLUBS
FIRE CLUB A much-changed venue which over the past
year or so has shed its shabby-chic look and which has be-
come a bigger, brighter venue than ever before. Still plays
mainly rock for a crowd of the young and not-so-young,
and to be honest it is as good as ever. We have always liked
the place and if you want to go local it is one of your better
options in the Old Town. There is also now Fire Pub out the
back (although the entrance is from Strada Covaci): a small
yet rather good boozer with a huge and very nice covered
terrace/atrium.QK15, Str. Gabroveni 12, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0732 16 66 04, www.fire.ro. Open 10:00 - 04:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PJBSW
IRISH PUBS
ST. PATRICK Looks like a pub, feels like a pub, even
smells like a pub. This is a big, well located and quite
frankly brilliant venue in the Old Town area: it really sets
the standard for the many others in the area. Set over
two levels every inch of this place is a proper boozer
serving exemplary Guinness and Kilkenny on tap along-
side loads of decent beers and good pub grub. QK14,
Str. Smardan 23-25, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 313
03 36/(+4) 0755 11 00 08, www.stpatrick.ro. Open
11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJEBW
THE HARP IRISH PUB & RESTAURANT
The Harp is better than ever before. In fact, if you
havent been here for a while you might hardly rec-
ognise the place. Set over two levels, with three great
bars, the Guinness is as exemplary as ever, and the
food is fabulous, a cut above your usual pub grub and
bordering on the outstanding. The enormous burger
they have started serving here might be a contender
for the citys biggest. There is live music every Friday
and Saturday night, and be warned: as big as this place
is it has become rather popular again. If you want a
table (especially at the weekend) make a reservation.
QK16, Str. Bibescu Voda 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+40)
735 55 44 55, www.theharp.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00.
PEBSW
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
OKTOBERFEST
What makes this place so special is how very ordinary it is.
You will find the crowd more local than foreign - never a
bad thing - and ordinary out for a drink and a good time
locals at that, not the fitze crowd. The owners try to make
something happen every night, whether its football on the
television or impromptu drinking competitions. The house
Oktoberfest beer is a bargain. Upstairs is Oktoberfest 2,
which has a small terrace.QK15, Str. Selari 9 -11, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 33 32 33, www.oktoberfest-pub.ro.
Open 24hrs. Also Oktoberfest 3 at J-15, Str. Franceza 3.
Open 10:00 - 07:00. PJNBW
LIVE MUSIC CLUBS
You dont have to go too far in Bucharest to find decent
live music. Many of the citys pubs and clubs have regular
live events, often a good local act, or in some cases bands
from abroad. Some venues: those we list here, below,
specialise in live music and have bands most evenings.
CONTROL CLUB
Still tops our list of clubs for people who do not like clubs.
It is a brilliant place where there is always something going
on, be it a DJ or live music supplied by one of Bucharests
better live acts. It also attracts a decent line up of interna-
tional acts too: often quirky bands you actually want to go
and see. The crowd is equally eclectic, refreshingly free of
the airs and graces you find in so many other Bucharest
clubs. We love it, and note that it opens early: it is now
a pub as much as a club, and when the weather is good
enough it has a very smart and most popular terrace. Food
upstairs at Alt Shift. Fantastic.QJ13, Str. Constantin Mille
4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0733 92 78 61, www.control-
club.ro. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEBW
MOJO
Its back. After a six-month hiatus the best music pub in
town has reopened its doors. Of all the pubs and live mu-
sic clubs in the Old Town, this is the one you want to come
to. Set over three levels there is something for just about
everyone. Upstairs you have the best karaoke bar in the
city - every night from 21:00 - while the ground floor pub
40 Bucharest In Your Pocket
is packed with big screens showing any sport that matters,
including English football via Sky Sports. At weekends it is
the busiest place in town and stays open well into the next
morning. All the drinks are a good price, served by decent
bar staff who will not keep you waiting.QK15, Str. Gabro
veni 14, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0737 220 220, www.
mojomusic.ro. Open 13:00 - 05:00. PJEBW
OLD CITY
If you came to Bucharest to party then this is the place.
Situated in the middle of the Old Town area, Old City
serves up more than a glimpse of the hedonistic nightlife
Romania is now so well-known for. Its been around for six
fantastic years - an age in this town - during which time it
has become a magnet for people from all over the world:
that the service is so good is just one reason. The biggest
location in the Old Town, this always busy pub and lounge
(and terrace when the weather allows) offers just about all
you need for a top night out: regular live music and other
events, delicious cocktails and pub grub far better than
you would expect. The big screens make it a good choice
for football too. Summed up? Everything you want in one
place. Go there.QK15, Str. Selari 14, MUniversitate, tel.
(+4) 0729 37 77 74, www.oldcity-bucharest.ro. Open
09:00 - 05:00. PJEBSW
THE HUB
A live music venue where youll find a great resident band
most evenings performing creditable covers of all your fa-
vourite classic hits. They are more often than not joined on
stage in the early hours by leading Romanian musicians
who have quickly made this place their preferred haunt.
Very nice indeed: be prepared to have a very good time.
Oh, and as a bonus for quiz fans, it hosts the Big British Bu-
charest Quiz every other Wednesday at 19:00.QL15, Str.
Baratiei 31, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0724 20 00 70. Open
21:00 - 05:00, Wed 09:00 - 01:00, Thu 22:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PEW
1 = 4.55 lei
(March 31, 2017)
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Nightlife
UPMARKET CLUBS
BOA - BEAT OF ANGELS BUCHAREST
Very much an essential Bucharest experience these days.
From the outside you could be forgiven for thinking that
this is a fairly nondescript building, as it looks vaguely like a
warehouse. Once you are in, however... Wow! It is an enor-
mous place that mixes luxury with great music courtesy of
two top local resident DJs who know how to work a crowd
of party people. There is plenty of space to dance, plenty
of places to chill out and even the toilets are spacious and
damn well luxurious. You will leave wanting to go back
and cursing your luck that it is only open twice a week.
QF3, Sos. Kiseleff 32 C, tel. (+4) 0736 30 07 00, www.
boa-beatofangels.com. Open 23:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PLEW

ENTOURAGE CENTRUL VECHI You will like this place.

A nice long bar, proper tall bar stools and even leather arm-
chairs for those who want to chill. Serves breakfast, lunch
and dinner from one of the best bar menus in Bucharest:
you will find something on it you fancy. There must be 100
lamps hanging down from the ceiling: all different. Star-
tlingly brilliant place, refreshingly free of brewery branding
too: always a bonus these days.QJ14, Str. Eugen Cara
da 5-7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0736 66 10 16, www.
byentourage.ro. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PJBSW

FRATELLI Top notch. One of Bucharests original uber-

clubs, where the richest and best looking people in the
city come to see and be seen. Serving up a never ending
supply of top DJs from both Romania and abroad, it is clear
that the people who run this place consider the music to
be as important as anything else: something not every
club in this town can boast. Not cheap (kind of the point)
if you stick to the beer and do not sit at a table then you
can still have a reasonably priced night out here. Brilliant.
QM3, Str. Glodeni 1-3, tel. (+4) 0731 03 62 22, www.
fratelli.ro. Open 23:30 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PL

FREDDO BAR & LOUNGE Probably the biggest, bold-

est and best place on Strada Smardan. A casual mix of food
and drink, Freddo is something of honey pot for Bucha-
rests sweetest bees. Open plan with glass on three sides
as well as the roof the place looks fabulous, and hosts a
variety of events from party nights to top DJ sets and live
music. Now get there and enjoy sound cocktails, amaz-
ing pizza and decent salads. You might want to reserve
at the weekends: this place is damn popular. Even opens
early for bleary-eyed coffee the next morning. Perfect.
QK15, Str. Smardan 24, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 0722
37 33 36, www.freddo.ro. Open 10:00 - 05:00. PJ
NBSW

CALEA VICTORIEI 26
@bucharestlife TEL. 0799 747 557

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 41

 Nightlife
GILDA For many years this place on the ground floor of
a Lipscani theatre was known as Muse, one of our fave
places in the city. Fortunately, the new management have
created an even better venue that mixes live music, to DJs
and very good food: you can spend all day and all night
here. Thats the kind of place this is: on the surface it looks
posh and flash and out-of-your-league but it is in fact a
down-to-earth, come-as-you-are venue to a crowd a bit
older than elsewhere, which can afford the prices of the
drinks. We love it.QK14, Str Lipscani 53, MUniversi
tate, tel. (+4) 0786 77 09 41, www.gildamusiclounge.ro.
Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PJBW
LOFT The truth is the food here is amongst the best in
the land, cooked by perhaps the best chef in the country.
Its not just us who say so either. Ask anybody in the city
who knows their food and you get the same reply: its bril-
liant. Inventive and magnificent food (seafood dominates),
cooked to perfection. The squid served with risotto, for
example: it sounds so simple yet its a taste sensation.
Not cheap of course, but worth the cost. And then theres
the club. At night Loft becomes one of the most popular
locations in the city, packed with the rich, beautiful and
famous, complete with a red carpet at the entrance and
face/wallet control. On a Friday you will need the per-
sonal intervention of the owner to get a table.QJ9, B-dul
Iancu de Hunedoara 56-60, MStefan cel Mare, tel. (+4)
0756 38 56 38, www.loftlounge.ro. Open 19:00 - 02:00.
Closed Sun. . PLESW honey-like Tamaioasa Romaneasca (white).
PLAYER CLUB A club for all seasons Player remains at
the cutting edge of the Bucharest nightlife scene: honest-
ly, if its top people and top sounds you want in an exclu-
sive setting then this should be your first stop in the city.
Boasts the sexiest dancers, the best DJs - often as many as
four top names in one night - and is guaranteed to leave
you bleary-eyed the next morning and wanting more. We
should also point out that the attitude is a bit more relaxed
here than that at some of the other uber-clubs, especially
during the summer. The swimming pool is open daily and
costs 50 lei during the week, 70 lei at weekends. Sun bed
and parking included, and you can stay all day.QE3, Str.
Primo Nebiolo 1, Piata Montreal, tel. (+4) 0720 73 47
34/(+4) 0737 73 73 34, www.theplayer.ro. Open 23:00 -
06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. PLBCW
WINE BARS
ABELS WINE BAR
Genuinely gorgeous little wine bar one of the most char-
acter-filled streets in the Old Town. This place oozes charm
from every corner, its simple yet striking decor a refreshing
change from some of the more gaudy places in the area.
Stocks a wide selection of terrific wine from all over the
world, and most are available by the glass. Theres also tea,
very good coffee and long drinks. You will love it.QJ15,
Str. Nicolae Tonitza 10, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0371
03 36 43, www.abelswinebar.ro. Open 16:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. PJSW
42 Bucharest In Your Pocket
WINES & SPIRITS
The story of the Romanian wine industry is a long and
complicated one. In short, it was very good, then the
communist regime ruined it through under-investment
and over-production, and now, back in private hands, it
is improving apace. Almost two per cent of Romanias
total agricultural land is given over to vineyards, making
Romania one of the worlds top 10 wine producers. As a
general rule the best whites are made in the north and
in Transylvania, while the countrys best reds are made in
the south. There are many exceptions, however.
The best known wine making regions in Romania are
Dobrogea (reds) and Murfatlar (which makes good
reds and decent whites) in the south east, Dealul Mare
around Buzau (which makes excellent reds, probably the
countrys best, in fact), Tarnava in central Transylvania
(whites) and Cotnari (whites) in Moldova. In the west, the
deep reds of the Recas vineyards have a loyal following.
While Romania grows international varieties of grape
from Sauvignon Blanc to (some extraordinarily good)
Merlot, the country also boasts a number of excellent na-
tive grapes. The best local varieties are probably the no-
ble, blackcurrant-tinged Feteasca Neagra (red), Feteasca
Alba (white), Feteasca Regala (white) and the aromatic,
With prices usually reflecting quality, you are advised to
spend as much as possible when buying Romanian wine.
The good news is that you will rarely have to spend much:
prices remain low and should stay so given the abun-
dance of great choice. There are some excellent specialist
wine shops and bars in Bucharest now, including those
listed opposite. Of the supermarkets, Auchan and larger
Mega Image stores have good selections of wine.
Do not leave Romania without trying the local firewater,
tuica (drink too much on the other hand and you might
not be in any fit state to leave). Made (usually, but not
always) with prunes and fermented in wooden casks this
strong smelling spirit is lethal yet ubiquitous. Every male
in the country has a supply (even if he doesnt drink it)
and will insist that his fathers/father-in-laws/uncles etc.
is the best. When made from other fruits, tuica is usually
called rachiu. Similar to tuica is palinca, a more refined
(it is distilled at least twice) spirit made usually from a
mixture of fruits.
Other local spirits include the less alcoholic afinata,
visinata and zmeurata. These are pseudo-liqeurs often
served as aperitifs or a dessert, or simply as a lighter al-
ternative to tuica when the occassion calls for unu mic
(a shot of something). These spirits are made from fer-
mented small garden fruits (bilberries - afine - for afinata,
cherries - visine - for visinata and raspberries - zmeura
- for zmeurata), with sugar and alcohol added.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

CORKS COZY BAR
Nice little wine bar tucked away on an Old Town side street
which quickly won itself a loyal following of admirers and
regulars. A look at the wine list will be enough to tell you
why, offering as it does a vast range of wines from across
the world, and many of them are available by the glass.
There are some good nibbles too if you get hungry. The
idea behind this place was to create a wine bar where any-
one - no matter how little they know about wine - would
feel welcome, comfortable and not be intimidated. In that
regard, its a total success.QK14, Str. Bacani 1, MUni
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 311 22 65, www.corks.ro. Open
15:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00.
PJBSW
NEW
PAINE SI VIN Next to Energiea (and run by the same
people) this is a lively bistro and wine bar designed very
much along the same lines. Lots of wood, all very mini-
malist and with a long central bar designed for sharing
wine and tapas with friends (the menu of bread, hams and
cheeses, spreads and even pizzas is specifically created to
be shared, making this place ideal for groups). The name
means Bread and Wine and as it suggests, there is bread-
a-plenty here: no fewer than 15 kinds of baguette and
focaccia, naan and knekkebrod. Bonus points for sourc-
ing as much of the produce as possible locally.QJ14, Str.
Brezioanu 4, MUniversitate, www.painesivin.ro. Open
17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. . PBSW - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PENBW
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Nightlife
THE WINE BISTRO
Vinexpert has been a leading Romanian wine dealer for
years, its shops stocking a range of both local and import-
ed wine from around the world. Since earlier this year its
outlets have been joined by this wine bar/bistro at the top
end of historic Calea Victoriei, where you can sample a vast
range of wine (by the glass if you wish). Decent staff will
guide you around their vast selection - do not be afraid
to ask for help.QH9, Calea Victoriei 155, MPiata Vic
toriei, tel. (+4) 0744 48 13 07/(+4) 031 405 19 19, www.
vinexpert.ro. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. PBW
JAZZ CLUBS
The people of Bucharest like their jazz, and besides the
venue we list here, you should also look out for regular
jazz concerts being put on at some of the cities other live
music venues, which we list under clubs.
GREEN HOURS JAZZ CAF
There is live jazz here alongside other arty stuff - includ-
ing theatre, comedy, book launches and the like - most
evenings. Popular with a crowd that encompasses all ages,
its definitely a place you should visit once before leaving
Bucharest.QI11, Calea Victoriei 120, tel. (+4) 0788 45 24
85/(+4) 021 313 86 06, www.greenhours.ro. Open 09:00
April - May 2017 43
 Sightseeing
ESSENTIAL BUCHAREST
The Peasant and Village Museums should probably take
priority, as well as the Grigore Antipa National History
Museum. While still the most famous building in the
city and usually top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa
Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a
let down for most, mainly due to the stilted nature of the
compulsory guided tour. Art lovers - especially fans of
religious art - should pencil in at least an afternoon at the
National Art Museum. Last but not least, half a day at the
Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian
literary, artistic, political and architectural history.
CASA POPORULUI (PARLIAMENT PALACE; PAL-
ATUL PARLAMENTULUI) Construction of Romanias
most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (Parliament
Palace; still known universally as Casa Poporului, or House
of the People) began in 1984, and continued through what
were the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime.
Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the build-
ing - often said to be the second largest in the world - has
long been shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole.
Originally designed (by a young architect: Anca Petrescu,
who was just 28 at the time) to house almost all of the
apparatus of the communist state, it today plays host to
the Romanian parliament, the Senate, a conference centre
and Romanias National Museum of Contemporary Art
(MNAC). And yet still much of it goes unused. Surrounded
entirely by a grim and rather forbidding wall access is far
from easy, and the only way to see the main part of the
building is on one of the official guided tours. Unfortu-
nately, for unknown reasons no guided tours are currently
being held and the palace is effectively closed. You should
check our website for any updates: as soon as tours recom-
mence (if indeed they ever do: we get the feeling the cur-
rent government wants to keep people away from parlia-
ment) we will make sure that you are the first to know. In
the meantime, to visit at least part of the building, head
for the splendid MNAC (see page 52), which is still open.
The equally megalomaniac building under construction
behind the palace is a cathedral, scheduled for comple-
tion in 2018.QH16, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3,
MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 311 36 11, www.cdep.ro.
44 Bucharest In Your Pocket
CIVIC CENTRE (CENTRU CIVIC) Of all the atrocities
committed on Romanian territory in the name of socialism,
few rank as monstrous as the destruction of an entire dis-
trict of the capital to make way for the Centru Civic, or Civic
Centre. Str. Uranus was completely razed to the ground, as
were most of the streets running from it. The centrepiece of
the Civic Centre, Casa Poporului (see left), stands on the site
of the Republica sports stadium, a wonderful art deco con-
struction built in the 1930s. Besides the stadium, churches,
houses, hospitals and even a monastery also had to make
way for Casa Poporului, and for the five kilometre long
B-dul Unirii. The full ensemble stands today as little more
than a monument to madness. The northern end of B-dul
Unirii has become a ghost town while the Casa Poporului
itself survives as the site of the Romanian parliament, and
is rather worryingly the citys most popular attraction. It
should also be remembered that the Centru Civic is larger
than most people think: it stretches from the JW Marriott
Grand Hotel in the west (which was designated as a hotel as
part of the original project, although never intended to be
a Marriott) to Piata Muncii in the east. It accounts for about
a sixth of the citys total size. Though intended as a grand
statement of ambition and as a showpiece of socialism (the
original name of B-dul Unirii was Bulevardul Victoria So-
cialismului - Victory of Socialism Boulevard) shabby work-
manship and use of poor quality materials mean that the
THEODOR AMAN MUSEUM
Recently reopened after a long period of restoration,
this lovely, centrally-located house is one of the finest
old residences in Bucharest, although blink and you
will miss it, hemmed in as it is by tall blocks. Built in
1868 as a home and studio by painter Theodor Aman
it includes a vast number of Amans work: the many
murals and frescoes are not the least of these. Look out
too for the exterior decorations, the work of sculptor
Karl Storck. A charming treat, and really something of
a must.QJ-12, Str. C.A. Rosetti 8, tel. (+4) 021 314 58
12, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro/muzeul-theodor-
aman.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Adults 5 lei, children, students, pensioners 2 lei.
Photography fee 15 lei.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
monumental apartment blocks that line B-dul Unirii, Dece-
bal and Calarasilor are - despite being just over 25 years old
- looking somewhat worse for wear. Nicolae Ceausescus
largest legacy has not weathered well.QK16, B-dul Unirii,
P-ta Unirii, B-dul Decebal, B-dul Muncii, MPiata Unirii.

GRIGORE ANTIPA MUSEUM OF NATURAL HIS-

TORY (MUZEUL DE ISTORIE NATURAL GRIGORE
ANTIPA)
One of Romanias finest museums, and one of the best nat-
ural history museums in Europe, which recently benefited
from a three year, 14 million refit. Packed with terrific ex-
hibits (including the obligatory dinosaur skeletons) which
will keep kids of all ages and their parents occupied for the
best part of the day, there are all sorts of hands-on, interac-
tive displays, as well as 3D films, artificial caves and - in the
basement - a thorough guide to the incredible amount of
animal and plant life native to Romania. The building which
houses it all is itself worthy of note, purpose built in 1908 at
the behest of Grigore Antipa, a noted Romanian naturalist
who then set-up and ran the museum for almost five de-
cades until his death in 1944.QH9, os. Kiseleff 1, MPiata
Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 312 88 26, www.antipa.ro. Open
10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20 lei, pensioners
10 lei, children/students 5 lei.

NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR; MUZEUL NA-

TIONAL DE ARTA) The countrys largest, and most im-
pressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former
Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the
wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. When his sons fell into finan-
cial ruin some years later, they were forced to sell the build-
ing to the state, which carried out huge modifications, add-
ing a number of new wings. It became a royal residence in
1859, when it became the site of the court of the first prince
of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. Although
slightly remodelled (and further extended) by Carol II in the
1930s and early 1940s, the building we see today is more
or less the original. There are two permanent galleries, split
over three floors of the main building. National Art (itself di-
vided into Medieval Romanian Art - featuring icons, carved
altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of

PEASANT MUSEUM
PEASANT MUSEUM (MUZEUL TARANU-
LUI ROMAN) Widely considered one of the best
museums in the country, the Peasant Museum is
about to get even better: alas while renovation
continues, the main section is closed to the public.
The excellent shop remains open however, as do
some of the temporary exhibition galleries, the
Clubul Taranului and the courtyard still hosts craft and
antique fairs most weekends. QG8, os. Kiseleff
3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61, www.
muzeultaranuluiroman.ro. Museum Shop Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 45

 Sightseeing
PIATA REVOLUTIEI
It was here, at around 10:30 on December 21, 1989,
that the Nicolae Ceausescu regime began to crum-
ble. A large crowd of well over 100,000 which had
been brought in to dutifully cheer Ceausescu in the
time-honoured way in fact jeered him - on live televi-
sion. The dictators face when he realises he is being
booed is astonishing, and has been called his Dorothy
Moment in reference to the scene at the end of The
Wizard of Oz when the facade of a great, mysterious
power is torn down to reveal nothing more than a frail
old man. A white marble triangle, with the inscription
Glorie martirilor nostri (Glory to our martyrs) points
(slightly inaccurately, in fact) to the low balcony above
the entrance of the former Central Committee build-
ing (today the Interior Ministry) from where Ceausescu
held this last public speech. He fled - by helicopter -
from the roof of the building late the next morning. It
is today difficult to imagine all that went on the not so
distant past, as the area is rather quiet, but the (deliber-
ately preserved) bullet holes on the building opposite
(above the Humanitas book shop) are a reminder of the
madness of those December days. The rather ugly and
ill-fitting monument to the revolution (officially called
the Monument of Rebirth, see photo above) stands in
the middle of the square, and is unkindly referred to by
locals as the olive on a cocktail stick. A far better me-
morial to those killed is the wall of remembrance, on
which the names of the 1058 victims of the revolution
are engraved. The memorial ensemble also includes a
bronze, seated statue of Iuliu Maniu, a former liberal Ro-
manian prime minister imprisoned by the communists
in 1947 who died in the most appalling conditions at
the notorious Sighet prison in 1953. Piata Revolutiei is
also home to the Atheneum (perhaps Bucharests finest
building, the National Art Museum (p. 45), the Cretulescu
Church (see p. 48) and the Athenee Palace Hilton hotel. A
statue of Carol I (Romanias first king) stands in front of
the National Library. QJ-13, Piata Revolutiei.
46 Bucharest In Your Pocket
frescoes, and Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romanias
greatest 20th-century artists well represented); and Europe-
an Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collec-
tion of Old European Masters from all of the major schools.
As such, the museum is increasingly trying to attract visitors
to the amazing palace itself, opening up the former royal
living quarters and throne room to guided tours on occa-
sional weekends. These tours (which cost 20 lei per person)
have been immensely popular and throughout 2017 the
royal quarters are open to the public on the third weekend
of every month. You do not need to reserve a place on a tour
in advance, but you should buy tickets at least 15 minutes
before each tour starts. There are three each day, at 11.30,
14.00 and 16.30.QJ12, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) 021
313 30 30, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open 10.00-18.00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Open until 22:00 on the last Friday of each
month. Admission 25 lei (adults) 10 lei (children, pen
sioners). Ticket includes the Gallery of European Art and
The National Gallery. For 30 lei you can purchase a dual
ticket also valid at the Art Collections Museum. Free on
the first Wednesday of the month. Royal Quarters tours
on the third Sat, Sun of every month at 11.30, 14.00 and
16.30. Tours cost 20 lei for adults, 10 lei for concessions.
OLD TOWN (CENTRU VECHI) Bucharests rather
run down yet lively Old Town (Centru Vechi, in Romanian)
is described by the Dambovita river to the south, Calea
Victoriei to the west, Bulevardul Brtianu to the east and
Regina Elisabeta to the north. The area is historic for this is
where Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to leg-
end, Bucur the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s
when he built a church somewhere on the eastern bank
of the Dmbovia river: nobody is sure exactly where this
church was (or even if it actually existed). What we do know
is that by the first reign of Vlad epe (1459-1462) there
was a palace and court (the Palatul Curtea Veche - cur-
rently closed to visitors while new archaeological work is
carried out) here, and that the city grew quickly around the
palace. By the middle of the 17th century the area was Bu-
charests merchant district, which it to all intents and pur-
poses remained until the end of World War II, when many
of the rightful owners of the houses and businesses which
lined the areas streets were arrested by the communist
authorities, and their property confiscated and left to rot.
The area has seen a revival in recent years, although many
of its buildings remain in a poor condition. It is the only
are of the city which is pedestrianised, however, and a walk
through its streets is worthwhile. Buildings to look out for
include the Stavropoleos Church (one of the city;s finest),
the National Bank of Romania, the Old Court Church and
the Hanul Manuc - and original 19th-century coaching inn.
PALATUL PRIMAVERII (SPRING PALACE)
The former residence of Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceauses-
cu can now be visited on a guided tour. Built in the 1960s and
known by the codename P50 during the communist period,
the 80-room Spring Palace (to use the English translation of
its name) served as a home for the Ceausescus for almost
two decades. While the building - which came with its own
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

cinema and swimming pool - is elegant from the outside,
the interior is decorated throughout in a ghastly style. Cho-
sen by Ceausescus wife, Elena, the decor is perhaps best
described as neo-classical kitsch, complete with solid gold
toilet roll holders. To book a place on a tour, you need to
phone a day in advance. You can also reserve a tour directly
on the palaces website.QI4, B-dul Primaverii 50, MAvia
torilor, tel. (+4) 021 318 09 89, www.palatulprimaverii.ro.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Tours in Romanian
cost 30 lei (adults), 20 lei (children, students, pensioners).
Under sevens are admitted for free. For a tour in English,
an additional 15 lei is payable.
VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAIONAL AL SATU-
LUI DIMITRIE GUSTI) Founded by Royal Decree in
1936, and covering some 15 hectares on the shores of Lake
Herstru, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor
museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original
houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches from
all of Romanias historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobro-
gea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing ex-
actly where in Romania it was brought from. Some even now
have recorded commentary in four languages (if the stickers
are missing, press the second button for English). Most of the
houses date from the mid 19th-century, but there are some,
such as those from Berbeti, in the heart of Romania - cele-
brated for their intricately carved entrances - which date from
as early as 1775. The highlight of the museum is probably the
steep belfry of the wooden Maramure church, complete
with exquisite but faded icons. You should also not miss the
earth houses of Straja, dug in to the ground and topped with
thatched roofs, or the brightly painted dwellings of the Dan-
ube Delta. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and a stall
selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. It even has a
restaurant, La Francu, set in a 19th-century inn. QF4, Sos.
Kiseleff 28-30, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 317 91 10, www.
muzeul-satului.ro. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Mon 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission 10 lei, pensioners 5 lei, students/children 2.50
lei. There are guided tours in English, French, Spanish,
Italian and Russian costing 300 lei: call in advance.
youtube.com/inyourpocket
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Sightseeing
HISTORIC CHURCHES
Miraculously, a relatively large number of Bucharests mag-
nificent historic churches have survived various earth-
quakes, war and communism. Whats more, all of those we
list here are still places of active worship, with services usu-
ally held at least once a day.
ANTIM MONASTERY (MANASTIREA ANTIM)
The splendid Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and
gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on
the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the
Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally
intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women
and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The bell tower
through which we today enter the monastery was added in
1857. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring,
for its sumptuous icons featuring scenes from the Nativity
and Revelations, painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu. The
sculptures on the wooden double doors of the church were
executed by Patriarch Antim himself.QI16, Str. Antim 29.
APOSTLES CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII APOSTO-
LI) One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dat-
ing back to the 16th century, when it served as the church of
the Trnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable
for its sublime steeple, built in 1715 and restored in 1936.
Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange
BELLU CEMETERY
Founded in the 1850s, this is the final resting place of
just about every great Romanian academic, scientist,
artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as
well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot,
usually with an accompanying monument (our favou-
rite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu,
killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). Next to the
cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bu-
charest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QCalea
Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) 021 636
35 71, www.bellu.ro. Chapel open 08:00 - 16:00.
April - May 2017 47
 Sightseeing
portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the
portraits are those of the churchs founder, Voivod Matei.
QI15, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii.
BUCUR CHURCH (BISERICA SFINTII ATANASIE SI
CHIRIL BUCUR CIOBANU) First built perhaps as early
as 1416, this could well be the site of the oldest church in
Bucharest. Nobody is exactly sure how long there has been
a church here, but we do know that it predates the Radu
Voda monastery opposite, which was first constructed in
1506. Today, the Bucur Church is often ignored, hidden
as it is on a hill above the street and hemmed in by two
blocks. The current church was built around 1720 (thor-
oughly renovated in 1909-10) to serve as a chapel for the
cemetery of the Radu Voda monastery. The church - and
the hill on which it stands - were recently consolidated in
order to prevent them falling further towards the Dambo-
vita river, just a few metres to the rear. The church is named
for Bucur the Shepherd, the legendary founder of Bucha-
rest.QL17, Str. Radu Voda 33, www.biserica-bucur.ro.
CREULESCU CHURCH (BISERICA CREULESCU)
Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest.
Biserica Creulescu was raised from 1720-2 by Iordache
Creulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Wallachian rul-
er Constantin Brncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on
the entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist,
while the interior icons were added in 1859 by the prolific
Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of De-
cember 1989, the church has recently been restored to its
full glory, and is a must. The bust which stands in front of
the church is of Corneliu Coposu, a liberal Romanian politi-
cian who was imprisoned for decades by the communists
but miraculously survived. He died in 1995.QJ13, Calea
Victoriei 47, MUniversitate.
DOMNIA BALAA CHURCH (BISERICA
DOMNIA BALAA) To say this church has been the
victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in 1885,
the church is named after Constantin Brncoveanus
sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in
1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second
church was built; but that was also later damaged, during
an earthquake in 1838. Building work almost immediately
started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and
just 40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-
coloured, Neo-Romanesque building. Serious cracks that
appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired
in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive
earthquake of 1977. Be cautious when viewing.QK15, Str.
Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii.
NEW ST. GEORGES CHURCH (BISERICA SF. GHE-
ORGHE NOU) The largest of the churches built in Bucha-
rest during the reign of Constantin Brancoveanu, New St.
Georges Church was consecrated on June 29, 1707. It was
a wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian,
Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros
of the times: the painter Parvu Mutu, the carpenter Istrate
48 Bucharest In Your Pocket
PATRIARCHAL HILL
Patriarchal Hill (Dealul Mitropoliei) is the seat of Daniel,
head of the Romanian Orthodox Church. The walk up
from Piata Unirii is lovely: look out for the very differ-
ent statues of Romanian legends Serban Cantacuzino
(above) and Alexandru Ioan Cuza.
At the top of the hill is a bell tower, built in 1698 dur-
ing the reign of Constantin Brancoveanu as an entrance
to the monastery - founded in 1650 - which once oc-
cupied the site. Beyond the tower is the centrepiece, the
church which since 1925 has served as the Romanian
Patriarchal Cathedral. Built from 1656-58 the church is
dedicated to Sts. Constantin and Elena. It is considered
a classic of what is known as Brancovean design: there
are many churches in Bucharest and around Romania
which look similar. Alas with the exception of the icons
representing Constantin and Elena (miraculously pre-
served, claim the faithful) the original frescoes - both in-
terior and exterior - have all been destroyed. The current
interior artwork was painted from 1932-35 by Demitrie
Belarizarie in neo-Byzantine style and is no less stunning
than the original. The paintings of the twevel apostles
which decorate the facade above the main entrance are
even more recent, added during significant restoration
of the church in 2008.
Inside, a splendid chandelier competes with the
golden altar for attention. The cathedral also houses (in
a glorious silver case) the remains of St. Dumitru - the
patron saint of Bucharest, brought here in 1774 - as well
as relics of Constantin and Elena. On both May 21 (Sts.
Constantin and Elena) and October 26 (St. Dumitru) the
queues of worshippers standing patiently in line to enter
the church lead back down the hill as far as Piata Unirii
and beyond. The church is usually open to visitors from
07:00-20:00 (there is no charge) and although there are
services at least four times per day the main weekly ser-
vice is held from 07:00 every Sunday. The church boasts
one of the finest acapella choirs in the country and its call
to prayer is well worth waking early to hear.
Surrounding the church are two buildings of equal
historical importance. To the right is the modest yet el-
egant construction which serves as the home and private
chapel of the patriarch. Originally built at the same time
as the cathedral opposite, it served as the residence of the
monasterys abbot before being extended twice - in 1723
and 1932 - to accommodate the patriarchs apartments.
On the other side of the piata is the far larger Patriar-
chal Palace, which has on a couple of occasions served a
political purpose. Constructed between 1903 and 1907
the buildings cupola - which collapsed during an earth-
quake in 1940 before being rebuilt - is styled on that of
the Atheneum (see page 50). The building was originally
the home of Romanias Chamber of Deputies, and was
put to use in the immediate aftermath of the 1989 revo-
lution as the location of Romanias first democratic parlia-
ment.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the
church was renovated from 1852-3 by the Spanish archi-
tect Villacrosse. At the same time, new and outstanding in-
terior murals were added by Marian Popp. A further round
of both exterior and interior renovation - including the
restoration of many paintings - ended in 2014, when Bran-
coveanu was made a saint. Once buried underneath the
church, Brancoveanus remains are now found on display
inside.QK14, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. J

NEW ST. JOHNS CHURCH

(BISERICA SFANTUL IOAN NOU)
Entirely hidden by blocks, few visitors to - or even residents
of - Bucharest are even aware of this churchs existence.
It is in fact right in the centre of the city, opposite Uni-
rea Shopping Centre, behind the Raifeissen bank on the
corner of B-dul Corneliu Coposu and B-dul I. C. Bratianu.
Founded in 1774 the small church boasts two exterior
frescoes as well as a richly ornamental interior, complete
with golden altar. One of the churchs wooden icons dates
from 1711 and was formerly housed in the Sarindar Church
(situated where the Cercul Militar is today).QK15, Piata
Unirii, MPiata Unirii.

OLD COURT PALACE & CHURCH

(PALATUL I BISERICA CURTEA VECHE)
The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of
the 15th-century by Vlad epe, was considerably extend-
ed during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again
a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin Bran-
coveanu, who added a splendid voievodal palace, deco-
rated with marble and icons. The palace was by and large
destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however,
and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today
was uncovered during archaeological digs that took place
from 1967-72, when the palace ruins were first opened as a
museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century
walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne
room. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church,
the oldest in Bucharest, dating from 1545. It was enlarged
in 1715, during the reign of tefan Cantacuzino, and the
frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca
and Miu Papa, were added in 1847.QK15, Str. Franceza,
MPiata Unirii. The Old Court site is currently closed for
architectural research, although the church is open. J

SCHITUL DARVARI (DARVARI HERMITAGE)

The walled Schitul Darvari - with its lovely grounds - is a
gorgeous oasis of peace and quiet in busy central Bucha-
rest. Founded in 1834 by Mihai Darvari and his wife Elena
- who purchased the site from the Biserica Icoanei - it
was originally a private church for the Darvari family and
their close acquaintances. Renovated extensively in 1894
and again from 1933-4, a community of monks lived here
continuously from 1835 to 1959, when they were forced to
move to Cernica Monastery by Romanias communist au-
thorities. Made a national monument in 1992 the church
is richly decorated both inside and out.QL11, Str. Schitul
Darvari 3, www.schituldarvari.ro. Open 07:30 - 19:30.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 49
 Sightseeing
ARCUL DE TRIUMF
Bucharests Arcul de Triumf was raised in 1922 to
commemorate Romanias World War I dead. The
original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the
present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure
only in 1935. Standing 25m high, the Arc has a staircase
that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top
of the monument, though it is strangely closed most
of the time and only opened on special occasions
(usually on national holidays). The sculptures and
reliefs that decorate the monument were created
by the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea,
Constantin Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. Recently
restored in something of a botch job, some of the
stonework has been de-coloured and the Arc now has
a most unsatisfactory two-tone appearance. What's
more, there is still no way to get to it without risking
your life crossing one of the busiest roundabouts in
the city. QF5, Piata Arcul de Triumf, MAviatorilor.
STAVROPOLEOS CHURCH (BISERICA STAV-
ROPOLEOS)
The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek
monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beau-
tiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on
the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a
sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones
dating from the 18th century, and you might often see
skilled craftsmen working on restoring them.QJ14, Str.
Stavropoleos 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+40) 21 313 47 47,
www.stavropoleos.ro. J
ST. NICHOLAS STUDENTS CHURCH (SFNTUL
NICOLAE BISERICA STUDENILOR)
Built in 1905-09 with a 600,000 gold rouble donation
from Tsar Nicholas II, this church is topped with seven
typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an
orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis
(catapeteasm) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhan-
gelsk Cathedral, in Moscows Kremlin. The church is cur-
rently covered in scaffolding while restoration work on the
exterior is carried out. It remains open, however.QK14,
Str. I. Ghica 9, MUniversitate. J
50 Bucharest In Your Pocket
HISTORIC BUILDINGS
ATHENEUM (ATENEUL ROMN) Possibly the finest
building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum (below), with
its sublime baroque cupola, stands proudly at the flux of the
citys busiest public square, competing with the Athenee
Palace Hilton hotel, the Royal Palace and the old national
library for attention. The work of French architect Albert
Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania,
the building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was
built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citi-
zens of the capital, when a campaign called Give a penny
for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the
project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds.
Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enes-
cu, the auditorium can seat 800 spectators comfortably, and
is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics.QJ12,
Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 315 25 67/(+4) 021
315 87 98, www.fge.org.ro. Box office open 12:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
NATIONAL BANK OF ROMANIA (BANCA NA-
TIONALA A ROMANIEI) The National Bank (BNR)
stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in
Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda, which from 1678 until
1883 was the home of various things, from a pub, to an
inn to a dormitory for a nearby girls school. After two fires
gutted the building however, the land was levelled and in
1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs
of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron
in 1885. The building boasts a facade with Corinthian col-
umns, and an enormous central banking hall.QK14, Str.
Lipscani 25, MUniversitate. J
NATIONAL SAVINGS BANK (CEC; PALATUL CA-
SEI DE ECONOMII SI CONSEMNAIUNI)
The home of the National Savings Bank (Casa de Economii
si Consemnaiuni; CEC) is one of the most fabulous Neo-
Classical facades in the city: the enormous arch that
houses the entrance, with its mighty Corinthian columns,
is a highlight of any architectural tour of Bucharest. Built
during the last decade of the 19th-century, to the designs
of French architect Paul Gottereau, the building is no less
impressive on the inside, not least the huge entrance
hall with its sensational glass roof, and dome that nods
towards the style of later Byzantine cathedrals. The main
halls are elaborately decorated with murals by Mihai Simo-
nidi.QJ15, Calea Victoriei 13. J
NATIONAL THEATRE (TEATRUL NATIONAL A build-
ing in three parts. The original National Theatre was built
between 1967 and 1970 to the design of three Romanian
architects, Horia Maicu, Romeo Belea and Nicolae Cucu, and
was rather abstractly styled to honour the architecture of
Moldovas famous monasteries. Unfortunately, the building
was then ruined in 1984-5 when a grey, concrete, vaguely
Neo-Classical casing was placed over the earlier structure.
That ugly casing, however, was removed in 2011 when the
theatre began to take on its current shape. As such, the co-
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
lourful red and white theatre once again looks much like
the construction the original architects envisaged, although
there are major differences inside the building. There are
now a number of new, smaller auditoriums alongside the
main stage, which is itself more flexible then before, and
more able to accommodate outside-the-box productions.
The odd statue in front of the theatre is called the Caruta
cu paiate, a tribute to Romanias best loved playwright, Ion
Luca Caragiale. It features characters from Caragiales plays.
QK13, Piata 21 Decembrie 1989 (Piata Universitatii),
MUniversitate, www.tnb.ro/en.

UNIVERSITATE The twin semi-circular buildings in Piata

Universitatii which are in many ways the entrance to the
Old Town were built in 1906 to serve as the headquarters
of Romanias largest insurance company. In front of them
are four statues, of Gheorghe Lazar (founder, in 1818, of the
first Romanian school in Bucharest), Ion Heliade Radulescu
(a founding member of the Romanian Academy), Mihai
Voievod Viteazul (the first person to unite the three Roma-
nian provinces, in 1600) and Spiru Haret (a mathematician,
astronomer and politician who as education minister in the
1880s and 1890s created the foundations of the modern
Romanian education system). Opposite is the university
building itself, constructed over a twelve year period from
1857 to 1869 at the behest of Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the
time Prince of Romania. It originally housed three faculties
(Law, Humanities and Science), but today houses just the
Faculty of Letters and Languages, as well as the univer-
sitys administrative departments. The central corp of the
building was entirely rebuilt in the late 1940s after it was
destroyed during heavy allied bombing in 1944. Though
rebuilt as an exact replica of the original, many sculptures
and basreliefs by Carol Storck were lost forever.QK14, Piata
Universitatii, MUniversitate.

BUCHARESTS MUSEUMS
ART COLLECTION MUSEUM (MUZEUL COLECTI-
ILOR DE ART) Firstly, a few words about the building.
The Casa Romanit was constructed in 1822 as a private
residence, before being bought by the state in 1883 to
serve as the countrys supreme court. After the communist
takeover in the 1940s it was used as a dumping ground for
the collections of wealthy Romanians not allowed to retain
their art by the regime. There are some fantastic works on
show, including paintings by all of Romanias greatest art-
ists, from Nicolae Grigorescu to Theodor Pallady. QH10,
Calea Victoriei 111, tel. (+4) 021 212 96 41/(+4) 021 212
96 42, www.mnar.arts.ro/Muzeul-Colectiilor-de-Arta.
Open 10:00-18:00, Closed Thu, Fri. From May 1st Open
11:00-19:00, Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 15 lei, students/
children 5 lei.

GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM (MUZEUL NATION-

AL GEORGE ENESCU) Mistakenly believed to be the
great Romanian composer George Enescus former home,
this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for
landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 51
 Sightseeing
Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Pal-
ace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescus
death, and a year later opened as a museum dedicated
to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual
memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Roma-
nias most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the
story of Romanian music in general.QH10, Calea Victo
riei 141, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 318 14 50, www.
georgeenescu.ro. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6 lei, pensioners 3 lei, children 1.50 lei. Free
entry on the 26th of each month.
NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM (MUZEUL NA-
TIONAL DE ISTORIE) The beautiful, monumental and
simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romanias
National History Museum was constructed from 1894-1900
to the designs of local architect Alexandru Svulescu. It
originally served as the headquarters of Pota Roman,
the Romanian postal service. When the post office moved
away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museum
is home to two of Romanias greatest treasures. Down in the
lapidarium is a full-scale replica of Trajans Column, while the
Romanian Treasury includes jewellery from the time of the
Geto-Dacians, as well as the current Romanian Crown Jew-
els, including the kings crown and an amazing selection
of emeralds made for Queen Marie, wife of Romanian King
Ferdinand and the granddaughter of Queen Victoria. Until
March 2017 the museum is hosting an excellent exhibition
exploring Romanias role in World War I. The bizarre statue
on the museums steps - which appeared during May 2012
- allegedly represents the emperor Trajan holding a wolf. It
SIGHTSEEING TOURS
BOOKTOURSROMANIA Offers a variety of tours
of both Bucharest and Romania. All tours are private
and fully customisable, particularly suitable for couples
and small groups.QTel. (+4) 0727 03 29 45, www.
booktoursromania.com.
MR. TRIPP
Offers a number of terrific tours, not the least of which
is the excellent value four-hour tour of Mogosoaia and
Snagov for 49, which includes the tomb of Vlad Tepes
(Dracula). There is also a full-day trip to Draculas Castle
(Bran; 79) which also includes Peles Castle and Brasov.
They will even pick you up from, and drop you off back at,
your hotel for free. The price includes all entrance fees and
a guide.QJ-13, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 0745 75 27
53, www.traveltobucharest.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00 ,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
RAPSODIA TOURS Offers a range of sleep and drive
packages featuring Bucharest, Sibiu, Sighisoara and Bra-
sov from 140. The prices include two nights four-star
accommodation with breakfast and three days car hire.
QG-9, B-dul Nicolae Titulescu 1, tel. (+4) 0744 63 82
92/(+4) 0744 58 67 24.
52 Bucharest In Your Pocket
COMMUNIST
BUCHAREST TOURS
Discover Bucharests recent brutal past in a three-hour
Communist-themed walking tour through both the
lesser and better known areas of the city. Learn about
the forced nationalisations and demolitions, the secret
police, religion, daily life and architecture under Com-
munism, as well as the abrupt end of the totalitarian
regime in December 1989. Tours depart from the bell
tower of the Patriarchal Palace (J-16), cost from 15 and
run every Tuesday and Saturday at 14:30. For more info
visit the wesbite tourofcommunism.com.
has not unsurprisingly been the subject of much ridicule,
and is a popular object for both locals and visitors to have
their photo taken with. Ironically, of course. QJ15, Calea
Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 82 07, www.
mnir.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission
25 lei, pensioners 15 lei, students and children 7 lei. J
NATIONAL MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
(MNAC; MUZEUL NATIONAL DE ARTA CONTEM-
PORANA)
Making excellent use of the wide open spaces of the Par-
liament Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Ro-
manias finest contemporary artists. There are also works
on display by a number of international artists, alongside
usually spectacular temporary exhibitions. We think its
one of the highlights of the citys cultural scene, and dont
TRANSVISION
TransVision runs a number of tours, including a Dracula
Tour which takes in Peles Castle, Rasnov Citadel and
Dracula (Bran) Castle in Transylvania. The price is 65/
person. Another option is a two-day tour of Transylva-
nia, also including Sibiu, Sighisoara and Brasov. The price
is 159/person and includes a night at a three-star hotel
with breakfast. All tours include free pick-up and return
from any Bucharest hotel, as well as an English-speaking
guide (other languages available).QTel. (+4) 0755 05 26
21, www.transvision.ro.
TRAVELMAKER An inbound tour operator with its
headquarters in Bucharests Old Town. The agency of-
fers a wide range of small group tours of Bucharest and
its surroundings. Join the original Two Castles in One
Day Tour to Peles and Bran castles and Brasov medieval
city, discover the truth behind the legend during the
Real Dracula Tour, travel to the north of Bulgaria for one
day or explore the legendary land of Transylvania dur-
ing the shared two day Transylvania Break Tour. At the
TravelMaker InfoPoint in the Old Town you can find out
more tips about what to see in Bucharest and how to
enjoy your time in Romania.QJ-14, Str. Lipscani 77 (2nd
floor), tel. (+40) 735 525 710, www.travelmakertours.
com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

forget that a visit here has the added bonus of getting you
into the Casa Poporului without taking the guided tour.
QH15, Calea 13 Septembrie 1 (Palatul Parlamentului),
MIzvor, tel. (+4) 021 318 91 37, www.mnac.ro. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Ad
mission 10 lei, children 2.50 lei. Free entrance for the
under-sevens.
NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM (MUZEUL
TEHNIC DIMITRIE LEONIDA)
Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if amusingly so)
museum of technology, it should be remembered that the
machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here
are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day
and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they
first appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating
back to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is
housed in something of a cherished relic itself: the last re-
maining pavilion (of many) built to host the 1906 Romania
Fair, a showcase of everything great in and about Romania
at the time.QJ18, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4)
021 336 93 90. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Ad
mission 6 lei, pensioners, students, children 3 lei.
NICOLAE MINOVICI MUSEUM (MUZEUL NICO-
LAE MINOVICI)
Opened in 1906 this was the first museum of popular Ro-
manian art in Bucharest. It is named for its original patron,
Nicolae Minovici, a medical pioneer who founded both
the first public ambulance service in Bucharest and the
citys first emergency hospital. Almost the entirely col-
lection was donated by Minovici himself, and highlights
include ceramics, pottery and traditional costumes. The
villa itself however is perhaps the real star: a wonderful
building that is a joy to stroll through. To get there, walk
north-east from Piaa Presei Libere or take bus No. 131,
301, 335 or 783 to the Mioria Fountain.QStr. Dr. Minovici
3, tel. (+4) 021 222 48 66, www.muzeulbucurestiului.
ro/muzeul-nicolae-minovici.html. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Adults 5 lei, children 2 lei.
STORCK MUSEUM (MUZEUL DE ART FRED-
ERIC STORCK I CECILIA CUESCU-STORCK) In
a delightful, richly decorated house with a lovely garden
(designed by French architect Andre Clavel), a short walk
from Piaa Victoriei, is this eclectic and quite superb mu-
seum dedicated to the work of the Storck family. Cecilia
Cuescu-Storck (1879-69) was the most celebrated mem-
ber of the family, and there are more than 150 examples of
her work here, from monumental paintings to avant garde
sculpture. The house was donated to the state by Storcks
daughters in 1951.QJ9, Str. Vasile Alecsandri 16, tel. (+4)
021 317 38 89. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Ad
mission 5 lei, children 2 lei.
@InYourPocket
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Sightseeing
BUCHAREST: THE EARLY YEARS
Bucharest is a relatively new city: no mention of it is
made until 1459, as one of the residences of Vlad III (the
Impaler), ruler of Wallachia. The exact origins of the city
are therefore unknown. Folklore has it that a shepherd,
Bucur, founded the city, but a more likely candidate is
Radu Voda (also known as Radu Negru), ruler of Wal-
lachia from c. 1290 - 1300.
It was under Vlad the Impaler that the city grew to any
real size, when it became the preferred site of the Wal-
lachian court. This was based in what is today known
as the Old Town, around the Curtea Veche. The city was
sacked for the first time in 1476 by the Moldavian ruler
Stephen the Great (Stefan cel Mare), and again by the
Turks in 1554.
During Mihai Bravus uprising against the Turks in 1594,
Bucharest was all but destroyed in heavy fighting.
It was not until the reign of Wallachian prince Matei
Basarab in the 1640s that the city fully recovered, and
the princely court rebuilt. Sacked again in 1655 (by the
Transylvanians) Bucharest suffered plague and famine
for much of the rest of the 1600s.
It was the accession to the Wallachian throne of Con-
stantin Brancoveanu in 1688 which changed Bucha-
rests fortunes. Brancoveanu negotiated alliances with
the Hapsburgs and Russians - keeping the Turks at bay
- while overseeing a cultural renaissance at home.
The Turks finally got the better of Brancoveanu in 1714:
ordered to Constantinople to account for himself he
was beheaded by Sultan Ahmed III. No longer trust-
ing local Wallachian princes to serve their interests, the
Turks instead appointed a long line of Greek adminis-
trators to rule the principality. Known as the Phanariots
(they came from the Greek district of Constantinople,
Phanar) they would rule over Bucharest until 1821.
During this time the city grew in size and importance,
despite regular disasters: there were major earthquakes
in 1802, 1804 and 1812, while plague returned in 1813,
during which as many as 40,000 people died.
In January 1859, at the Hotel Concordia on Strada
Smardan, Wallachias nascent parliament elected Alex-
andru Ioan Cuza as the principalitys new ruler. Given
that the Moldavian parliament had elected the same
man to be their leader a few days before, the vote at
the Concordia in effect created the first state of Roma-
nia. Bucharest grew - and flourished - during the reign
of Carol I (1866 - 1914), Romanias first king. Electricity
was introduced in 1882, and the city hosted a grand
exhibition, Romania in the World, in 1906. The Carol Park
in southern Bucharest (see page 49) was built to host
the fair.
April - May 2017 53
 Sightseeing
BUCHAREST CITY TOUR
Now in its seventh year of operation the Bucharest City
Tour sightseeing bus - much maligned when it first ap-
peared - is more popular than ever and is without ques-
tion one of the best ways to explore the city. In all there
are 14 stops along the route (all are well signposted) and
every one is directly outside or very close to a major sight.
Leaving Casa Scanteii (officially now called Casa Presei
Libere) the bus follows Soseaua Kiseleff, passing Herastrau
Park and the Village Museum on the left, and Romanias
national rugby stadium on the right, before arriving at the
Arc de Triumf.
From here the bus continues along Soseaua Kiseleff,
passing some of the most expensive real estate in Bucha-
rest. Many of the splendid houses on this street are now
embassies. Pavel Kiseleff by the way, for whom the street is
named, was a modernising Russian general who was the
de facto governor of Bucharest and Wallachia in the 1830s.
A trio of good museums await at the next stop, at the
bottom of Soseaua Kiseleff. The best is the Peasant Mu-
seum while the Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History
and Geology Museum are also worth your time.
Calea Victoriei is Bucharests most famous street, and
you get a very different perspective from atop a bus than
you do at street level. The vast number of architectural
styles on show is immediately obvious, from the Brancove-
nesque houses at the northern end to the art-deco, 1930s
apartment blocks further south. The biggest attraction on
Calea Victoriei is probably Piata Revolutiei, where the bus
conveniently stops. On this huge square you will find the
Atheneum, the Athenee Palace Hilton, the Former Royal
Palace (now the National Museum of Art), the Former
Central Committee Building and the Revolution Memorial,
which locals call an olive on a stick.
The next stop is the rather amazing CEC building,
home of Romanias national savings bank, CEC. Opposite
is the Post Office Palace, a neoclassical gem built as the
home of the Romanian post office, but since 1970 the
site of the National History Museum. Behind the museum
is the Old Town area. At the bottom of Calea Victoriei is
the river Dambovita, now more a canal than anything, its
embankments little more than ugly concrete slabs. Until
the 1970s the river was a more natural-looking affair, its
embankments covered in trees and foliage. Concrete-fan
Nicolae Ceausescu deemed it untidy, however, and its
fate was sealed. In a similar way the whole area that the
bus now enters was also tidied up: hundreds of houses,
churches, schools and even hospitals were razed in order
to make way for the Civic Centre, of which the most im-
portant building is of course the Casa Poporului, where the
bus stops. It is almost impossible to imagine how this area
looked before the demolitions began (in 1984), but you
can get an idea by peering behind the blocks on Bulevar-
dul Unirii at some of the few surviving houses and at the
church of the Antim Monastery, built in 1715 and which
survived demolition only by being moved 25 metres from
54 Bucharest In Your Pocket
its original location.
Piata Unirii itself is one of the largest public squares in Eu-
rope. That does not, however, make it one of the nicest. In
fact, the square is an awful place, all concrete and traffic.
Respite can be found up the hill leading southwest from
the square, home of the Romanian Patriarchal Cathedral,
known Mitropoliei. From Unirii the bus makes its way along
Bulevardul Ion Bratianu, named for a former Romanian
prime minister. Look out for the Baratiei Church on your
right, which sticks out quite literally, almost into the street.
First built in 1590 it is one of the oldest churches in Bu-
charest. Next stop is Piata Universitatii (the bus stop is in
fact outside the Coltea hospital and church). Opposite is
the much-overlooked Museum of the History Bucharest in
the Sutu Palace, while on the other side of the square is the
university building itself, the InterContinental hotel and the
National Theatre.
As you travel north along Bulevardul Magheru towards
the next stop, Piata Romana, look out for two art deco ho-
tels, the Lido on the left (currently closed) and the Ambas-
sador on the right. Both built in the 1930s they are crying
out for five-star refits. Piata Romana is another of Bucha-
rests large public squares that is little more than a mess of
cars and concrete. On the right hand side is the ASE build-
ing, home of Bucharests economics university.
From Piata Romana the bus makes its way along Bule-
vardul Lascar Cartagiu towards Piata Victoriei. Smart villas
and apartment blocks line the avenue, named for another
former Romanian prime minister, Lascar Cartagiu. A large
statue of Cartagiu can be spotted about half way along the
street, on the right hand side. At Piata Victoriei, yet another
Bucharest square that is little more than concrete and
traffic, the only point of any real interest (other than the
museums) is the 1930s Italianate building on your right,
once the foreign ministry but now home to the Romanian
government. Arriving at Piata Aviatorilor, the bus rejoins
Soseaua Kiseleff, stopping once more (at the Village Mu-
seum) before ending its circuit back at Casa Scanteii.
The tour buses start running on May 1st, at 15 minute
intervals from 10:00-22:00. Tickets are valid for 24 hours, al-
lowing you to hop-on and hop-off as many times as you like
throughout the day. You do, however, need to validate the
tickets each time you board a bus. Tickets are priced at 25
lei for adults, 10 lei for children, and can be bought either on
board, at RATB ticket kiosks or at selected hotels. Headphones
offer basic recorded commentary in a number of languages.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

SUTU PALACE/MUSEUM OF BUCHAREST The col-
lections of the Museum of Bucharest are actually spread
around a dozen or so buildings throughout the city, in-
cluding the Storck Museum, the Theodor Aman Museum
and the amazing Nicolae Minovici Museum in Baneasa.
The Museum of Bucharest also looks after the recently
renovated Bucharest Observatory on Bulevardul Lascar
Cartagiu. The main exhibitions however are based here, in
the sublimely elegant, Neo-Gothic uu Palace, built from
1833-4 for the wealthy merchant Costache uu: you will
notice as you walk in that the main staircase is particularly
opulent. The palace has served as a museum since 1959
and having been given a reboot recently it is has never
been in better shape. The main exhibition is a kind of his-
tory of Bucharest in reverse (which fittingly begins with a
unique backwards clock, made in Paris especially for the
buildings original owners) and features a vast collection of
items key to the citys history. There are other exhibitions
in the building too, which currently include a fine selec-
tion of photographs of life in the city between the two
world wars.QK14, B-dul I.C. Bratianu 2, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 315 68 58, www.muzeulbucurestiului.ro.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission (for all ex
hibitions) 10 lei, 5 lei children, students and pensioners.
Children under seven free. Guided tours are available in
Romanian, English and French. J
THEODOR PALLADY MUSEUM (CASA MELIK,
MUZEUL THEODOR PALLADY)
Theodor Pallady (1871 - 1953) was an early Cubist artist
widely regarded as Romanias most influential 20th century
painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influ-
enced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th cen-
tury, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs,
sometimes with echoes of Moreau and Puvis de Chavannes.
Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only
six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted
other art. The museums saving grace is the house in which
it is hosted: one of the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called
the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Arme-
nian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu.QM12, Str. Sptarului 22, tel.
(+4) 021 211 49 79, www.mnar.arts.ro/Muzeul-Theodor-
Pallady. Open 10:00-18:00. From May 1st Open 11:00-19:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 10 lei, students and children
2.50 lei.
ZAMBACCIAN MUSEUM (MUZEUL ZAMBACCIAN)
A not-to-be-missed chance to see the large collection
belonging to the long deceased Armenian businessman
Krikor Zambaccian (1889-1962; youll see the requisite por-
traits) that includes the only Cezanne in Romania, as well
as the best of Romanian painters Nicolae Grigorescu, Ioan
Andreescu, tefan Luchian, Gheorghe Petracu, Nicolae
Tonitza, Nicolae Drscu, Theodor Pallady, Iosif Iser, Corneliu
Baba, Alexandru Ciucurencu, Horia Damian, Alexandru Padi-
na, Ion uculescu, and a smaller yet notable group of sculp-
tures by Dimitrie Paciurea, Oscar Han, Corneliu Medrea, Ion
Jalea and Constantin Brncui. It really is a thorough look at
modern Romanian art. There are also 19 paintings by French
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Sightseeing
The courtyard of the Stavropoleos Church & Monastery. See page 50
artists, including Delacroix, Renoir, Pissarro, Sisle, Bonnard,
Utrillo, Marquet, Matisse and the only Cezanne in Romania
(Portrait of a Little Girl).QI7, Str. Muzeul Zambaccian 21A,
tel. (+4) 021 230 19 20, www.mnar.arts.ro. Open 10:00-
18:00. From May 1st Open 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 10 lei, children, students 5 lei.
PARKS & GARDENS
BOTANICAL GARDENS (GRDINA BOTANIC)
Bucharests fabulous Botanical Gardens were founded in
1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince Al-
exandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent
Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and
instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in
the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their
present location in 1884. The garden, administratively part
of Bucharest Universitys Botanical Institute, today extends
over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than
10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are
cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Of particular note
are the exotic flowers (more than 1000 are on display) and
the bizarre Symphytum ottomanum, a plant which can
appear to vanish without trace only to reappear up to 50
metres away. The recently renovated glasshouses are fabu-
lous, and kids love the wide variety of strange plants inside,
especially the cacti and the Venus fly traps. Many locals like
to take advantage of the bargain entrance fee and use the
exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the place can of-
ten be far more full with courting couples than with lovers
of more floral delights. Whatever your reasons for going, its
a terrific place to spend a morning.QC13, Sos. Cotroceni
32, MPolitehnica, tel. (+4) 021 410 91 39, www.gradina-
botanica.ro. Gardens Open 08:00-20:00. Botanical Mu
seum Open 10:00-15:00, 09:00-13:00, Sat, Sun, Closed
Fri. Greenhouses Open 10:00-13:00, Closed Mon, Wed,
Fri. Admission to the gardens 5 lei, students and chil
dren 2 lei. Admission to the museum and greenhouses
costs extra, 2 lei adults, 1 leu children.
April - May 2017 55

CAROL PARK (PARCUL CAROL I/PARCUL
LIBERTII) So close to the city centre yet strangely for-
gotten by many, this large park was created for the Roma-
nia in the World exhibition which was held here in 1906.
(The Technical Museum, to the left of the main entrance,
is housed in one of the original exhibition pavilions). De-
signed by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont, the
park is today dominated by the massive Monument to
the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism
(it stands 48m high) built in 1963 and which until 1990
was a mausoleum which housed the remains of commu-
nist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it
is today the site of the tomb of Romanias Unknown Sol-
dier). The park offers some pleasant walks along tree-lined
paths, playgrounds and terraces, and a good view of cen-
tral Bucharest from the monument. The open-air Arenele
Romane in the west of the park, next to the observatory
of the Astronomic Institute of the Romanian Academy is a
popular if rather rundown venue for concerts. Close by is
the gorgeous Cutitul de Argint Church, built in 1796 and
famous for its many exterior icons. On the other side of
SWIMMING POOLS & SPAS
HILTON HEALTH CLUB Small indoor pool, sauna,
steam room, massage, weight and fitness room, and a
host of other wellness facilities.QJ-12, Str. Episcopiei
1-3 (Athenee Palace Hilton), tel. (+4) 021 303 37 77.
Open 06:00 - 22:00. Adults 120 lei.
INTERCONTINENTAL The highest swimming pool
in Romania. The views are great, there is a gym and
steam room, and you dont even need to be a guest
of the hotel: day tickets are available.QK-13, B-dul
Nicolae Balcescu 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310
20 20. Open 06:00 - 22:00. Adults 80 lei 06:00-16:00,
120 lei 06:00-22:00; Children 40 lei 06:00-16:00, 80
lei 06:00-22:00.
THERME BUCURESTI Bucharest has one of the best
water parks in Europe. There are three separate areas
here: one a recently extended conventional water
park with slides and wave machines; one with large
heated pools and jacuzzis for relaxation; one for sau-
nas and such like. Its all under cover, meaning that you
can swim even when it is raining outside.QComuna
Balotesti, tel. (+40) 21 529 71 97, www.therme.ro.
Open 09:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. For the
water park (Galaxy Zone): Adults 66 lei (full day), 45
lei (three hours). Children (up to age 16) 50 lei (full
day), 29 lei (three hours). The other zones (which are
closed to under-16s) cost extra. An adult full day tick
et for the whole complex costs 96 lei. Reductions are
available for families with kids.You can get there by
car or with the shuttle bus to and from Piata Romana
(J-10). The timetable is online at: en.therme.ro.
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Sightseeing
the park it is worth looking out for the medieval-looking
Tepes Castle (which in fact dates from 1906), once a water
tower but now used as offices by the Romanian Armys
veterans association.QJ19, Calea Serban Vod, MEroii
Revolutiei.
CISMIGIU GARDENS (GRDINA CISMIGIU)
The most central of the citys public gardens, Cismigiu
is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Often mis-
takenly referred to as a park, Cismigiu is actually a large
garden, first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German
landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until
1860. More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in
from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were
fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights
of the 17-hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid
out in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of
Romanias most famous writers, the lake, which can be
explored by rowing boat in summer or skated upon dur-
ing the winter, and Ion Jaleas French Memorial in Carrara
marble, which commemorates those French troops killed
on Romanian territory during World War I. The park has a
couple of cafes, refreshment kiosks as well as some good,
large childrens playgrounds. It can get very busy in good
weather, but it is a lovely place to spend time.QI13, Be
tween B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stir
bei Vod and B-dul Schitu Mgureanu, MUniversitate.
HERSTRU PARK Anyone who still thinks that Bucha-
rest is a city of concrete and cement has clearly never been
to the citys lung, the incomparable Herastrau Park. Quite
simply, this glorious park, spread over 187 hectares around
Herastrau lake is one of the jewels in Bucharests crown,
which might explain why half of the city chooses to spend
its summer Sunday afternoons here. Fear not though, for so
big is Herastrau that it never gives the impression of being
crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always
be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere, if you look
hard enough. Herastrau was laid out from 1930-36 on what
had until then been mainly marshland around the (natural)
lake. The Village Museum - which occupies a large part
of Herastrau and which is one of its most popular attrac-
tions was created at the same time. As early as the late
19th century, however, parts of the lakeshore served as a
promenade for Bucharests wealthy, and the area surround-
ing the lake had long since become the most fashionable
in the city. Indeed, the residence of Romanias royal family,
the Elisabeta Palace, is found inside Herastrau (although
it is closed to the public). When first opened the park car-
ried the name of its patron, King Carol II. For a short time
in the aftermath of the second world war and the decla-
ration of the Peoples Republic of Romania in 1948 it was
unfortunate to have the name Parcul I.V. Stalin. The name
Herastrau has been in general use since the early 1960s.
There is a ton to do in Herastrau, far more than most people
- including locals - realise. The park has two main entranc-
es, although by far the most elegant is that which borders
Piata Charles de Gaulle. It is also conveniently located close
to Aviatorilor metro station. The other entrance, at the far
April - May 2017 57
 Sightseeing
end of Soseaua Kisellef, opposite Casa Scanteii, is better
for those coming by car as there is some (but not a lot) of
parking available. The first thing you will see when entering
the park from Piata Charles de Gaulle is a tall, bronze, rather
bizarre statue of de Gaulle himself. Between 1952 and 1961
a statue of Stalin stood on the same spot. Charles de Gaulle
is not the only historic figure honoured in this part of the
park with a statue or bust, however. In fact, the alleyways
and paths which fan out from the entrance are all dotted
with famous people, from Romanian revolutionary Nicolae
Balcescu to Bengali literatures most important figure, Rabi-
ndranath Tagore. Look out also for local artists Nicolae Gri-
gorescu, Constantin Brancusi and Theodor Aman, as well as
writers George Cosbuc, Alexandru Vlahuta and Romanias
national poet, Mihai Eminescu. Other foreigners honoured
with statues include William Shakespeare, Ady Endre, San-
dor Petofi and Victor Hugo. There is even a statue of Prince
Charming (Fat Frumos). We have long suggested that the
park should publish a map of all its statues so that visitors
can tick off those they see as they go around. For kids, there
is an adventure park in Herastrau, open 10:00-20:00, fea-
turing four trails of varying difficulty, none of which are
COUNTRY CLUB
STEJARII COUNTRY CLUB What is unquestion-
ably Romanias leading country club is just slightly
north of Bucharest, in a quiet location just past Ikea
and the Baneasa mall. Boasting a superb spa and of-
fering an amazing range of sports (including squash,
tennis, a climbing wall, a huge indoor swimming pool
and a range of aerobic and martial arts options) it also
even has a golf driving range. There are various mem-
bership options, from a year to simple weekly or day
tickets.QStr. Jandarmeriei 14, tel. (+4) 0744 33 21
55/(+4) 031 424 70 51, www.stejariicountryclub.ro.
Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
58 Bucharest In Your Pocket
particularly challenging. One is reserved for kids aged be-
tween four and seven the others are for children aged eight
and above. Two hour tickets (long enough to complete all
the trails) cost 35 lei for children. In good weather you can
rent bikes from IVelo, close to the entrance. Rental costs 5
lei per hour, or 20 lei for a full day. Under-16s and over-65s
can rent bikes for free, but for a maximum of two hours.
There are boat trips on the lake throuhout the spring and
summer. There are plenty of places to eat and drink in the
park. On the western side of the lake the best place to go
is the Hard Rock Cafe, while in the other side (on Soseaua
Nordului) there is a whole string of excellent, of upmarket
and rather expensive restaurants: Casa di David and Iso-
letta are the best. A slightly cheaper option is the less ritzy
but no less good seafood restaurant Pescarus, one of the
most historic eateries in the park, recently renovated and
vasty improved by the team behind City Grill and Caru cu
Bere.QH5, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor.
TINERETULUI PARK (PARCUL COPIILOR)
A large, mostly lovely park featuring some of the best
playgrounds in the city. Divided into two parts, the main
section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for
kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as playgrounds
and plenty of tree-lined avenues great for strolling. Dur-
ing the summer you can rent bikes from IVelo, close to the
entrance. Rental costs 5 lei per hour, or 20 lei for a full day.
Under-16s and over-65s can rent bikes for free, but for a
maximum of two hours. In the middle of the park is the
Sala Polivalenta a popular venue for concerts, exhibi-
tions and big indoor sporting events - set above a large ar-
tificial lake on the shore of which is a terrace which serves
some of the best mici in the city. Up by Sala Polivalenta
you will also find the entrance to Oraselul Copiilor, a large
funfair complete with big wheel and other rides, some of
which are really rather scary and for over-18s only. Most of
the rides cost 5 or 10 lei. It was recently renovated and is a
good choice for families with kids.QL19, B-dul Tineretu
lui, MTineretului, Constantin Brancoveanu.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Sightseeing
CHILDRENS BUCHAREST
Spring is a great time to visit Bucharest with kids, and
there is plenty to keep children of all ages entertained.

The outdoor Village Museum is as good a place as

any to start: its many houses, windmills and wooden
churches - all of which can be explored - will fascinate
young minds, while there are often activities at week-
ends for children who want a more hands-on experi-
ence. The excellent confectionery stall at the entrance,
selling home-made sweets and cakes, will also be a
hit. Of the citys other museums, the Grigore Antipa
Natural History and Technical are probably the most
suited to children, particularly older kids. The Roma
nian National Opera puts on childrens matinees
most weekend mornings at 11:00, and there are also
puppet shows at the Clubul Taranului, at the Peasant
Museum (see p.45). Visit them all on one of the open-
top double-decker buses of the Bucharest City Tour:
always a hit with kids.

Bucharest is blessed with a number of very good

parks, and all of them have lots to offer. There are
playgrounds in all of them, pleasure boat rides on the
lake in Herastrau, rowing boats in both Herastrau and
Cismigiu. Perhaps the park most suited to children
however is Tineretului in the south of the city, for on
the far side of the park (take the metro to Constantin
Brancoveanu) is Oraselul Copiilor (Childrens City) - a
large funfair whose attractions include a big wheel
and some very scary rides strictly for the brave. You
can hire bikes at one of three IVelo rental centres
located at the entrance to Herastrau and Tineretului
parks. Bikes cost 5 lei per hour, or 15 lei for a full day.
The under-16s and over-65s can hire bikes for free (but
for a maximum of two hours). You will need ID.

If the kids want to get even more active there are also
a couple of adventure parks to head for. The one we
recommend is Edenland in Balotesti, north of the city.
It offers a range of adventure trails for kids and adults,
as well as paintball, archery and other outdoor activi-
ties. There is also a smaller adventure park in Herastrau,
with four trails. More info at edenland.ro.

Bucharest has a fantastic year-round water park: Therme.

It is located to the north of the city, although there is a
free shuttle bus to and from the city centre. There are
pools open to the public at most of the five-star hotels,
including one on the top floor of the InterContinental.

Most restaurants in Bucharest are child-friendly, even

more so now that the smoking ban has made them all
accessible to parents who would rather not have their
children eat while smokers breathe cancerous fumes
all over them.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 59

 Jewish Bucharest
BUCHAREST JEWISH TOURS
Professional tour of Jewish Bucharest, including the Ho-
locaust Memorial, the Great Synagogue and the Holo-
caust Museum, the Bucharest Jewish History Museum,
the Choral Temple, the Yeshua Tova Synagogue, streets
which were representative of the Jewish quarter, an
abandoned synagogue, the Bucharest Jewish Theatre, a
Kosher restaurant and much more. Tours are held Sun-
day to Friday and are undertaken by car with a guide and
driver. Bucharest Jewish Tours also organise a three hour
walking tour of Jewish Bucharest from Sunday to Friday,
for 29. Custom tours also available. Can also help with
genealogy issues for those looking to trace their Roma-
nian Jewish family roots. More info at the website www.
bucharestjewishtours.com, email office@bucharestjew-
ishtours.com or tel. (+4) 0722 235 095.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF JEWS IN ROMANIA
The story of the Jews in Romania is not a happy one. Rela-
tively small until the mid-19th century, the size of the Ro-
manian Jewish community - predominantly urban - grew
from the 1840s onwards as large numbers of Jews sought
refuge in Moldavia and Wallachia from persecution in Tsa-
rist Russia, and by the mid-1860s there were more than
150,000 Jews nationwide. Alas the Jews fared little bet-
ter - initially - in Romanian lands than they had in Russia,
with strict laws enacted preventing them from wearing
traditional dress, sending their children to school and even
becoming Romanian citizens. There were frequent attacks
on Jews and their property (particularly in Iasi) while there
was a major anti-Jewish riot in Bucharest in 1866, when
large numbers of Jews were beaten and the Choral Temple
(rebuilt soon afterwards) desecrated and destroyed.
There was another wave of Jewish immigration in
1903-5 following the Chisinau Pogrom of April 1903 (Chisin-
au was at the time part of the Russian Empire), and while the
plight of the Jews improved considerably as their numbers
and political influence grew, it was only in the aftermath
of World War I that Romanian Jews were awarded full civil
rights, later guaranteed in the 1923 Romanian Constitution.
It was during the 1920s that the number of Jews living in
Romania reached its peak (at around 730,000), around a
third of whom lived in Bessarabia (today the Republic of
Moldova). Bucharests Jewish population peaked at 70,000
in 1930: as much as ten per cent of the citys population.
Romania was not, however, immune to the anti-
Semitism of 1930s Europe, and the rise in popularity of the
fascist scum Legionnaire Movement and its horrific para-
military wing, the Iron Guard, can in part be explained by
its violently anti-Semitic policies. By the time the Iron Guard
joined the government of military leader Ion Antonescu
and formed its Legionary State in September 1940, much
anti-Semitic legislation had already been passed, and the
Legionnaires were allowed to persecute Jews with impu-
nity. This persecution intensified, becoming violent in the
almost unimaginably brutal three-day Bucharest Pogrom
60 Bucharest In Your Pocket
of January 21-23, during which the Legionnaires killed -
in the most horrific manner possible - 125 Jews; women
and children included. Thousands more were beaten and
tortured, and two synagogues were destroyed. And worse
was to come: in July 1941 as many as 13,000 Jews were
killed in Iasi, in one of the worst pogroms in Jewish history.
Mass killings and deportations followed, and, according
to the Wiesel Commission report released by the Roma-
nian government in 2004, Romania in total killed 280,000
to 380,000 Jews during World War II. At the same time,
120,000 of Transylvanias 150,000 Jews died at the hands
of Hungarys fascist government (writer Elie Wiesel - the
Nobel Peace Prize winner who was chairman of the Wiesel
Commission - was deported with his family from Sighet to
Auschwitz by the Hungarian regime). And while as many as
350,000 Romanian Jews survived the war, the Wiesel Com-
mission states that of all the allies of Nazi Germany, Roma-
nia was responsible for the deaths of more Jews than any
country other than Germany itself.
At the wars end, mass emigration to Israel once again
reduced the number of Jews in Romania. Those who re-
mained suffered further persecution at the hands of the
countrys new, communist rulers, most notably in the early
1950s. The failure of the first Danube-Black Sea Canal pro-
ject in 1952 was blamed on Jewish engineers, who were
accused of Zionism and executed. Throughout the com-
munist period however, Romania allowed large numbers
of Jews to emigrate to Israel, in exchange for much-needed
Israeli economic aid (in the 1980s Nicolae Ceausescu would
pursue a similar policy with West Germany, accepting cash
payment in exchange for allowing the emigration of Tran-
sylvanian Saxons). By 1987, there were just 27,000 Jews left
in Romania. Further emigration since the 1989 revolution
has reduced numbers even further, and in the 2011 census
just 3,271 people identified themselves as Jews.
CONTEMPORARY JEWISH BUCHAREST
Almost all of Bucharests Jewish district - which was cen-
tred on the Choral Temple and spread from Piata Unirii
east towards Dristor - was destroyed during the demoli-
tions of the 1980s to make way for Bulevardul Unirii. The
enormous Malbim Synagogue (which stood exactly where
the National Library is today) was just one of hundreds of
Jewish properties pulled down. Yet a handful of buildings
in the area survived, and most can be visited, including the
remaining synagogues (one of which hosts a Holocaust
Museum), the Jewish History Museum (located in an old
synagogue) and the Jewish Theatre, next to which is a Jew-
ish school, Lauder-Reut.
CHORAL TEMPLE First built in 1857, then rebuilt in 1866
following its destruction in a pogrom, the red-brick Choral
Temple (pictured, above left) has a memorial in front of
it that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their
deaths during the Holocaust. It is a copy of Viennas Leop-
oldstadt-Tempelgasse Great Synagogue. It was rededicated
in December 2014 following an eight-year renovation of
the fabulous, colourful interior.QL15, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 312 21 96.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

HOLOCAUST MEMORIAL Unveiled in October 2009,
Romanias Holocaust Memorial finally recognises the
countrys role in the genocide of Europes Jews. As the Wi-
esel Report - commissioned by the Romanian government
to investigate the Holocaust in Romania - concluded, no
country outside Germany was responsible for the deaths
of more Jews than Romania. The memorial itself compris-
es a column on which each side is written a single Hebrew
letter. Taken together they read zachor (remember). There
is also a hall of remembrance, and a number of plaques
containing the names of many Romanian Holocaust vic-
tims.QI14, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str. Ilfov, MEroilor.
JEWISH HISTORY MUSEUM
(HOLY UNION TEMPLE; MUZEUL DE ISTORIE A
EVREILOR DIN ROMANIA) Housed in the amazing
Holy Union Temple synagogue, constructed in 1836, this
building has served as a museum of Jewish history since
1978. A number of separate exhibitions display how the
once vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest used to live,
while there is also an impressive Jewish liturgical collec-
tion, most of which was assembled by Moses Rosen, Ro-
manias chief rabbi from 1964-94 who founded the mu-
seum. The considerable Jewish contribution to Romanian
culture is also well covered, although it could be argued
that the biggest attraction is the building itself: the inte-
rior - split over three levels with two ornate galleries - is
richly decorated from floor to ceiling. As we went to press,
repairs and renovations on the building were underway,
with the exhibitions moved temporarily to Great Polish
Synagogue (see below). QL15, Str. Mmulari 3, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 311 08 70.
THE GREAT POLISH SYNAGOGUE & HOLOCAUST
MUSEUM Bucharests Great Synagogue, often called the
Great Polish Synagogue, was built from 1845 -1846 by the
Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. Rather plain on the
outside the interior is an impressive, colourful mixture
of baroque and rococo styles, and the Great Synagogue
is perhaps today the most important Jewish building in
the country. The synagogue hosts an excellent exhibi-
tion dedicated to Jewish martyrs, and to Moses Rosen,
who served as Romanias Chief Rabbi for 30 years until his
death in 1994. Guided tours are available (phone ahead).
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Jewish Bucharest
The building also continues to serve as an active place of
worship.QL-15, Str. Vasile Adamache 11, MPiata Uni
rii. Open 08:30 - 15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30 - 13:00. Closed
Sat, Morning Prayer: Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening
Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00.
YESHOAH TOVA SYNAGOGUE (SINAGOGA EUA
TOVA) Located on a busy side street off Bulevardul Ma-
gheru, this is in fact Bucharests oldest synagogue, dating
from 1827. It is one of just three synagogues in Bucharest
which still holds religious services.QJ11, Str. Tache Io
nescu 9, MPiata Romana. Services take place when
Sabbath commences on Friday evenings, as well as on
Saturdays at 09:00.
FURTHER READING
For a thorough account of the Holocaust in Romania, we
recommend Radu Ioanids book Holocaust in Romania:
The Destruction of Jews & Gypsies by the Antonescu Regime.
For a slightly different look at life as a Jew in 1930s and 40s
Romania, you can do no better than the brilliant Journal:
The Fascist Years, by Mihai Sebastian. The full Wiesel Com-
mission Report is online at yadvashem.org.
THE LOST SYNAGOGUES
Besides the three Bucharest synagogues which still
hold religious services (the Choral Temple, the Great
Polish Synagogue and the Yeshoah Tova), as well as
the Holy Union Temple which houses the Jewish His-
tory Museum, there are two more abandoned syna-
gogues which can still be (just about) seen. The first,
the Beit Hamidrash Synagogue, is in fact the oldest
of all Bucharests Jewish places of worship, originally
dating back to the late 18th century. Found at the in-
tersection of Calea Mosilor and Strada Lipscani (L-14),
the synagogue is hidden behind a crumbling building
and almost impossible to spot unless you know what
you are looking for. The synagogue - which was badly
damaged by the Legionnaires in the 1941 pogrom,
has been abandoned, it would appear, for decades. A
similar - although not quite so sad - fate has befallen
another synagogue, built in the 1920s in the Vitan
area of Bucharest. Known as the Hevrah Amuna or
Temple of Faith, the synagogue is on Strada Vasile
Toneanu, directly behind the Bucuresti Mall. From
Calea Vitan take the first left after the Mall (Strada
Vlad Judetul) and then the first left again. The Hevrah
Amuna synagogue - in reasonable shape although no
longer used - is on the left hand side. The synagogues
courtyard is usually closed, although when we visited
it looked as though there were people living in one of
the small buildings at the rear.
April - May 2017 61
 Shopping
Bucharests main shopping areas are the shopping centres
and malls listed in the relevant sections below, as well as
B-dul Magheru and - increasingly - Calea Victoriei.
SHOPPING CENTRES & MALLS
AFI PALACE COTROCENI
Possibly Bucharests biggest mall, and possibly its best
and most popular. Offers loads of top brand names, as
well as the added attraction of an IMAX cinema, a large ice
skating rink (open year round) and even an indoor roller
coaster and huge childrens playground. Trams No. 1, 11
and 35 will get you here, else take the metro to Politehnica.
QA15, B-dul Vasile Milea/B-dul Timisoara, MPo
litehnica, tel. (+4) 031 425 75 10, www.aficotroceni.ro.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.
BANEASA SHOPPING CITY Large mall in Baneasa,
north of the city. Youll find it just past the old Baneasa
airport: you can get here on buses 131 or 301 from Piata
Romana. Hundreds of shops and restaurants, as well
as a large cinema complex and hypermarket.Qos.
Bucureti-Ploieti 42D, tel. (+4) 021 305 71 95, www.
baneasashoppingcity.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
BUCURESTI MALL
Recently extended in a major redevelopment, this place
- when opened in 1999 - was the first modern mall in the
city. Hundreds of shops, including most of your high street
favourites and a cinema complex on the top floor.QCalea
Vitan 55-59, tel. (+4) 021 327 67 00, www.bucurestimall.
com.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
PARK LAKE
Huge mall on the edge of the lovely Titan Park, in the east
of Bucharest. Well designed to blend in with its leafy sur-
roundings it boasts hundreds of shops, including all of
your favourite local and international brands. There is also
a large cinema complex, kids play areas and activities and
a World Class gym with pool. Trams 23 or 27, or the metro
(to Dristor) will get you within walking distance.QStr. Liviu
Rebreanu 4, tel. (+40) 757 35 30 14, www.parklake.ro/
en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
PROMENADA MALL
Featuring the usual mix of top stores and restaurants, the
Promenada also has a unique rooftop recreation area. No
cinema, however, which rather lets it down.QK2, Calea
Floreasca 246B, MAurel Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 0744 24 62 46/
(+4) 021 794 72 13, www.promenada.ro. Open 10:00 -
22:00.
UNIREA SHOPPING CENTRE
Half-decent if dated shopping centre in the heart of the
city. A big Mega Image supermarket can be found in
the basement, and theres a large number of eateries -
and a kids playground - on the fifth floor.QK15, Piata
Unirii 1, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 303 02 08, www.
unireashop.ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
62 Bucharest In Your Pocket
BOOKS
CRTURESTI Marvellous bookshop, gallery and
gift shop, all inside a gorgeous old Bucharest house in
the very centre of the city. The superb Verona Garden
out the back is a good choice for lunch, dinner or just
drinks.QJ11, Str. Pictor Arthur Verona 13-15, MPia
ta Romana, tel. (+4) 021 317 34 59, www.carturesti.
ro. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
MARKETS
Bucharest is home to a number of good markets. In season
fruit and vegetables tend to be local, although it depends
on the market: check what you are buying if you really want
to make sure you are getting local produce. In winter, expect
almost everything to be imported and priced accordingly.
The biggest of Bucharests markets is Obor (O-10; take the
metro to Obor) an amazing place which is essential for a full
Romanian experience (see page 68). Bucharest In Your Pocket
- for what its worth - tends to do its shopping at either Piata
Ramnicu Sarat or the Peasants Market on B-dul Unirii.
Beyond the produce markets there are a couple of ba-
zaar-type places worth visiting, not least Complex Comer
cial Rahova (H-18), a place that stocks cheap everything.
Take tram No. 32 from Piata Unirii to (almost) the end of the
line to find it. A similar den of chaos is the Sunday morning
flea market at Vitan-Barzesti. Also look out for arts, crafts,
peasant and antiques markets too: these are quite com-
mon at the weekend. The Peasant Museum (p. 49) holds
one just about every week, while there is a small antique
market every Sunday at Parcul Carol.
ANTIQUE/FLEA MARKET
Each Sunday you can find a variety of antiques dealers of
varying quality (there is plenty of good stuff on sale, but
equally as much rubbish) at the main entrance to Parcul
Carol. Look out for old Romanian banknotes, stamps,
medals and badges.QJ18, Parcul Carol/Piata Libertatii.
Open Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri,
Sat.
PIATA TARANULUI (PEASANTS MARKET) Every
Friday, Saturday and Sunday (in good weather) peasants
come from all over Romania to sell their wares at this small
yet excellent farmers market. Find great fruit and vege-
tables (in season), smoked sausages, bacon, slana, trout,
goats cheese, wine, tuica, honey and bors for making
ciorba and honey.QN16, B-dul Unirii/Str. Nerva Traian.
Open 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon - Thu.
TARGUL VITAN-BARZESTI Every Sunday morning this
place becomes Bucharests biggest and busiest flea mar-
ket. Its mayhem. More or less everything you can imagine
can be found here, all prices negotiable. Next door is an
enormous second-hand car market. Bus 123 from Piata
Unirii will get you here. Be brave.QSos. Vitan-Barzesti/
Splaiul Unirii. Open 08:00-16:00. Closed Mon-Sat.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Shopping
SOUVENIRS & WINE

Bucharest 83-85 Calea Victoriei (Franchise Max Mara) Maxmara.com

Beware: Almost all of the many souvenir shops that have
opened of late in Bucharest (especially those in and around
the Old Town) sell little more than Chinese crap with Roma-
nia plastered on it.

ETHIC WINE
Wonderful wine shop, run by a friendly Englishman and
his lovely wife, both of whom really know their stuff. There
is a wide range of local grape, as well as a good selection
of wines from Cricova in the Republic of Moldova.QK6,
Str. Banu Antonache 55, tel. (+4) 0722 63 37 89, www.
ethicwine.ro. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

MUZEUL TARANULUI ROMAN (PEASANT MU-

SEUM) (PEASANT MUSEUM) The shop at the Peasant
Museum has an outstanding selection of souvenirs and
gifts. Of particular note are the traditional peasant clothes,
as well as the painted glass icons and naive art. Not cheap,
but its all high quality stuff. The museums courtyard hosts
a craft, antique and gift market most weekends.QG8,
os. Kiseleff 3, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) 021 317 96 61.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

VILLAGE MUSEUM (MUZEUL NAIONAL AL

SATULUI DIMITRIE GUSTI) Good souvenir shop where
you can be certain of finding the real deal: everything is
Made in Romania and items such as clothing will even come
with certificates of proof of origin.QF-4, Sos. Kiseleff 28-
30, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) 021 317 91 10, www.muzeul-
satului.ro. Open 09:00 - 17:00.

MAX MARA
Beautifully-made clothes. Find them next to the
Radisson Blu Hotel.QI12, Calea Victoriei 83-85, tel.
(+4) 021 316 89 77, www.maxmara.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Closed Sun.

BURBERRY
The legendary British label Burberry has landed in Bu-
charest, with a flagship store at the Radisson Blu.QI-12,
Str. Luterana 4, tel. (+4) 021 314 14 14, ro.burberry.com.
Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.

SPORT COUTURE
Sport Couture stocks a wide range of leading brands
(DKNY, Fred Perry, Diesel etc.) alongside Burberry and Burb-
erry Kids. QBaneasa Shopping City, 1st Floor, www.
sportcouture.ro. Open 10:00-22:00.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 63

 Hotels
CREAM OF THE CROP SYMBOL KEY
ATHENEE PALACE HILTON BUCHAREST The Athe-
nee Palace has been one of Bucharests finest hotels for P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
more than 100 years. It is a living piece of the citys history
- it dates from 1914. Books have been written about the F Fitness centre H Conference facilities
goings on at this place (the best of which is Rosie Waldecks K Restaurant U Facilities for the disabled
Athene Palace). Yet behind its historic facade you will find
a most modern and contemporary place to stay. There is D Sauna L Guarded parking on site
a wide range of rooms to choose from: perhaps the best
6 Animal friendly C Swimming pool
are those with views over equally historic Piata Revolutiei.
Besides the amazing accommodation, the Athenee Palace O Casino W Wifi
also offers an indoor pool and health club, terrific onsite
dining and you should not forget that this is also of course
the home of the English Bar: probably Bucharests most 021 224 00 34, www.crowneplaza.com/bucharest. 164
famous pub.QJ12, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 303 rooms. PTHUFKDCW
37 77, www.placeshilton.com/bucharest. 272 rooms..
POTH6UFLKDCW EPOQUE Now heres a hotel we have no problem in rec-
ommending. The Epoque has style in abundance and it
CROWNE PLAZA BUCHAREST Contemporary yet wel- shows in every detail. Located close to the city centre and
coming, the Crowne Plaza Bucharest offers all the reassur- glorious Cismigiu Park its setting is in fact a retreat from
ing global standards you would expect of the brand, from the heart of the city. It offers 45 immaculate and unique
first class accommodation to world class facilities. With a suites inside a Neo-Romanian exterior of a building that is
renowned reputation for individual and friendly service, at once imposing and homely. There is a great spa centre,
the hotel can also offer the greenest setting in the capital, complete with pool, sauna, Turkish bath and massage, and
surrounded as it is by beautifully maintained grounds. Can events facilities for business travellers. The onsite restau-
also boast a large swimming pool, big, comfortable rooms rant is one of the best in the city and a must visit.QH13,
(and bathrooms to match) and some outstanding drink- Str. Intrarea Aurora 17C, tel. (+4) 021 312 32 32, www.
ing and dining options.QD1, B-dul Poligrafiei 1, tel. (+4) epoque.ro. 45 rooms. PTHUFLKDCW

64 Bucharest In Your Pocket bucharest.inyourpocket.com


GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL Making the very best
of a wonderful building (which dates from 1886) on chic
Calea Victoriei, todays Grand Hotel Continental is the re-
sult of more than two years of loving renovation and res-
toration. Theres marble at every turn, though do not think
that modern touches are missing, for they are not. The
audio-visual systems in the rooms for example are state
of the art. For the great location and for a change from
the big chains, its well worth trying.QJ13, Calea Victo
riei 56, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 0372 01 03 00, www.
grandhotelcontinental.ro. 59 rooms. PTH6U rooms. POTH6UFLKDCW
FLKDW
INTERCONTINENTAL Still the tallest hotel in Bucha-
rest (complete with a swimming pool on the top floor)
the InterContinental was the first major five-star hotel
to open in Romania, at the beginning of the 1970s. Fully
renovated a number of times since then, today it is one of
the citys most recognisable buildings, and something of
an icon. The rooms here all boast big balconies with great
views of the city, there is first class dining in the building,
and the management is commendably hands-on. The
Club Lounge on the 21st floor is probably the best in the
city, offering great views of Bucharest, cocktails, meeting
rooms, internet, a library and an all-round exclusive atmo-
sphere. Non-guests can use the Club Lounge for 50 per
day. Its open 06:30-22:30.QK13, B-dul Nicolae Blcescu
2-4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310 20 20, www.
intercontinental.com/Bucharest. 257 rooms. POT
H6UFLKDCW avant garde in design. Bathrooms offer both tubs and show-
JW MARRIOTT BUCHAREST GRAND HOTEL
To the south of Casa Poporului the JW Marriott occupies
something of a palatial building that at first glance prob-
ably makes it the most immediately impressive of Bucha-
rests big five-star hotels. The scale of the place, and its
cavernous interiors, betray the fact that it was built as part
of the same grand plan as the Casa Poporului itself. Yet the
rooms are homely and well-furnished, providing a wel-
come contrast to the building. Plenty of good dining op-
tions, and home to the biggest swimming pool in the city
(we think).QF16, Calea 13 Septembrie 90, tel. (+4) 021
403 00 00, www.jwmarriottbucharest.com. 402 rooms.
POTH6UFLKDCW riors, all of which carry the signatures of top-name design-
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Hotels
NOVOTEL BUCHAREST CITY CENTRE Few locations
are better than this, right on fashionable Calea Victoriei.
The entrance is impressive: a replica of the old neoclassi-
cal National Theatre which stood on this exact site until the
British bombed it during the World War II. Shiny and new
the main part of the hotel is wonderful: rooms are big, with
bathrooms particularly impressive. Excellent, lively lobby
bar and a big indoor swimming pool are other added ben-
efits of staying here.QJ13, Calea Victoriei 37B, MUni
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 308 85 00, www.novotel.com. 258
PULLMAN BUCHAREST WORLD TRADE CENTER
The spacious, luxurious rooms are the main attraction at this
high rise in the north of the city, where the bathrooms boast
perhaps the deepest bathtubs in the city. There are separate
showers, and all in all we think that the square-meterage-
per-euro ratio is higher here than anywhere else in Bucha-
rest. A good on-site steak house keeps you well fed, and
though there is no pool there is a good fitness centre with
sauna and massage available.QE3, P-ta Montreal 10, tel.
(+4) 021 318 30 00, www.pullmanhotels.com. 203 rooms.
PTH6UFLKDW
RADISSON BLU A gleaming temple of steel and glass
amongst the more classical buildings of Calea Victoriei, the
Radisson excels in playing the role of futuristic Bucharest
hotel of choice. As you walk in the glass bar strikes you as
daring and modern, and the rooms themselves are equally
ers, and there is an indoor pool, so you can swim whatever
the weather. Excellent restaurants, especially the sublime
Prime Steaks and Seafood.QI12, Calea Victoriei 63-81,
tel. (+4) 021 311 90 00, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-
bucharest. 718 rooms. PHUFLKDCW
SHERATON This is a high-rise hotel in the busy centre of
Bucharest, originally built in the 1970s as the Hotel Doro-
banti, and for much of the past two decades a Howard
Johnson property. This place is now very much a Shera-
ton, however, and it shows. A multi-million euro refit has
seen this place become a five-star jewel in Bucharests
crown: the sleek, modern exterior is matched by the inte-
April - May 2017 65
 Hotels
ers. Boasting wonderful large rooms and luxurious com-
mon areas, it is also home to a couple of Bucharests finest
restaurants.QJ10, Calea Dorobantilor 5-7, MPiata Ro
mana, tel. (+4) 021 201 50 00, www.sheratonbucharest.
com. 270 Rooms. POTH6UFLKDW 27 72, www.ramadamajestic.ro. 111 rooms. PTH
OVER 150
CISMIGIU One of the most famous hotels in Bucharest
(there is even a song about the place: Hotel Cismigiu, by
Vama Veche) reopens its doors after being closed for al-
most two decades. In a fantastic location right in the heart
of the city, millions have been spent making the hotel
look better than at any time in its century-old history. The
contemporary rooms - all of which are in fact suites - are
enormous, many even boasting kitchens.QJ14, B-dul
Regina Elisabeta 38, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 031 403
05 00, www.hotelcismigiu.ro. 60 rooms. PTHU
FLKW
K+K ELISABETA We love this place for a number of
reasons, not least the fact that the huge breakfast buffet
stays open until 11:00, meaning late starters can still get
breakfast. The hotel is located in a huge, renovated period
house just behind Piata Universitatii. The discretion of the
location betrays the fact that this is the kind of place you
come to if you like old fashioned luxury, good service, and
possess exceptional taste.QK13, Str. Slanic 26, MUni
versitate, tel. (+4) 021 302 92 80, www.kkhotels.com.
67 rooms. PTHFKDW the city is this smart place at the northern edge of the
RAMADA BUCHAREST PARC The Hotel Parc has been
around a while, but only came under the Ramada banner
a short while ago. A high-rise in a leafy suburb it boasts nice
rooms which - while not huge - are comfortable and boast
brightly coloured dcor and gorgeous, soft cotton sheets
on the beds. QC1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021
549 20 00, www.ramadabucharestparc.ro. 267 rooms.
PHKW
RAMADA MAJESTIC Standing (dare we say it) majesti-
cally on Calea Victoriei, the Majestic has long been one
of Bucharests best hotels. It offers very big rooms with
glorious bathrooms, a great breakfast and - a real bonus
66 Bucharest In Your Pocket
- a swimming pool (albeit a rather small one). In a city in
which even some of the five-star hotels lack pools, the Ma-
jestics makes it well worth that little bit extra cash.QJ13,
Calea Victoriei 38-40, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 310
UFLKDCW
RAMADA PLAZA BUCHAREST Slightly more up-
market than its sister establishment across the road, what
you get here is a slightly bigger room than at the Parc,
and much bigger bathrooms. The design of the place is
nicely futuristic, and we loved the beds which we think are
amongst the best in Bucharest. Good value for the money.
QC1, B-dul Poligrafiei 3-5, tel. (+4) 021 549 30 00, www.
ramadaplazabucharest.ro. 298 rooms. PHUF
KW
100-150
BERTHELOT Smart, modern and dead central. For your
money you are getting a good deal here: the rooms are
big and well furnished with plenty of mod cons, while the
bathrobes in the sumptuous bathrooms are suitably fluffy
and the cosmetics a cut above the norm.QI12, Str. Gener
al Berthelot 9, tel. (+4) 031 425 58 60/(+4) 0771 65 40 09,
www.hotelberthelot.ro. 43 rooms. PTHLKW
CAPITAL PLAZA Looking for the business traveller not
wanting to pay five star prices, one of the best hotels in
city centre, about five minutes walk from Piata Victoriei.
The rooms are big and furnished in a modern style, with
unobtrusive colours and smart lines. Bathrooms are good,
and the range of free cosmetics is impressive. Top onsite
restaurant too, the 1880.QJ9, B-dul Iancu de Hunedo
ara 54, tel. (+4) 0372 08 00 80, www.capitalplaza.ro. 95
rooms. PTHUFLKW
CENTRAL Central by name, central by nature. Slap,
bang on Bucharests version of Broadway (its all relative),
amongst cinemas and theatres, the Central was totally
renovated last year and is now one of the best (and best
value) stays in the city. We like the staff who are always
friendly, and who go out of their way to make sure you
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

do not get ripped off by dodgy taxi drivers: such attention
to detail is to be applauded.QJ14, Str. Ion Brezoianu 13,
MUniversitate, tel. (+4) 021 315 56 36, www.thhotels.
ro. 62 rooms. PTH6UW
EUROPA ROYALE BUCHAREST Who said Old Town refits
have to be kitsch? This one certainly isnt. The Europa Royale is
a gorgeous place that complements instead of overpowering
its surroundings. Literally a stones throw from where Bucha-
rest began, at the Curtea Veche, facing Piata Unirii, it is as ideally
located as you ever hope for. Inside the rooms are big, classy
and we found the staff exemplary. QK15, Str. Franceza 60,
MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 17 98, www.europaroyale.
com. 92 rooms. PTH6UKWJ
GOLDEN TULIP VICTORIA BUCHAREST Half-way
along Calea Victoriei, a pleasant walk to both Piata Victoriei
and Piata Universitatii, the Golden Tulip is a fine hotel that
makes great use of the space available. The bathrooms for
example are not huge but feel far bigger than they are, and
all have enough room for bathtubs. Bright and modern in
design we think its suited best to business travellers look-
ing to get great value for their companys dollar.QI11, Ca
lea Victoriei 166, MPiata Romana, tel. (+4) 021 212 55
58, fax (+4) 021 212 51 21, www.goldentulipbucharest.
com. 81 rooms. PTHUFLKW
MERCURE Romanias first Mercure hotel opened in No-
vember 2014 in a great location just behind the Atheneum.
The rooms are well-sized, superbly decorated and come
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Hotels
with loads of extras, from espresso machines to fluffy
bathrobes. And all at a very reasonable price. Free Wifi
throughout, and the building itself is an elegant, modern
construction with a striking, sublime mural on one side.
QJ11, Str. George Enescu 17A, tel. (+4) 0758 58 30 00,
www.mercure.com. 114 rooms. PTHFLKW
OPERA You could quite literally throw a stone from the
rooms here into Cismigiu Park (though we do not rec-
ommend it), and as such we think this is a great place for
families with children to stay when visiting the capital. Not
cheap, we think that you get value for money, especially
given the size of the rooms and the terrific breakfast spread
they lay on every morning for guests. Staff happy and smi-
ley too.QI13, Str. Ion Brezoianu 37, tel. (+4) 021 312 48
55, www.thhotels.ro. 33 rooms. PTH6UKW
PARK INN BY RADISSON In an enviable location, more
or less next door to the main Radisson, the new Park Inn
offers many of the features of its sister hotel across the way,
but at a fraction of the cost: guests can use the Radissons
health club and indoor pool free of charge, for example.
The rooms are a good size, colourful and many have de-
cent views. There is even underground parking.QI12, Str.
Luterana 2-4, tel. (+4) 021 601 36 00, www.parkinn.com/
hotel-bucharest. 210 Rooms. PFLKDCW
instagram.com/bucharestlife
April - May 2017 67
 Hotels
Z EXECUTIVE BOUTIQUE HOTEL You want central?
Well this place is central. In a building on a street hidden
a little behind the Sutu Palace this is a great place from
which to enjoy the delights of Old Town and indeed the
whole of central Bucharest. Rooms are big and modern,
tastefully furnished and come with comfortable beds and
good bathrooms. Plenty of little luxuries, not least full, free
Wifi throughout. The breakfast room is great, and theres
an on site bistro with great views of the busy streets out-
side.QK14, Str. Ion Nistor 4, MUniversitate, tel. (+4)
031 140 02 00, www.zhotels.ro. 21 rooms. PTH rooms. PTHUFLKDW
6ULKWJ
UNDER 100
BOUTIQUE HOTEL MONACO A nice place on a
quiet(ish) street yet still close enough to the city centre
to be within walking distance. There is an elegance to the
decoration that suggests theyve taken real time and ef-
fort over things, and the beds are large, comfortable and
covered with crisp yet soft sheets. Wifi, flatscreen TVs,
good bathrooms. The kind of place you feel should cost
a lot more than it does: seriously good value for money.
QL12, Str. J. L. Calderon 74, tel. (+4) 021 310 56 68,
www.hotelmonaco.ro. 8 rooms. PTLW
CARO The Caro is in fact three hotels in one: the Caro
Golf, a four-star establishment offering very swish rooms,
the Caro Parc: one of the best three-stars in the city, and
the outstanding value budget two-star Caro Horoscop.
All three offer bright rooms with excellent bathrooms, and
there is terrific buffet breakfast in the Belvedere restaurant.
The surroundings are leafy and yet the citys business
district is just across the street. There is free Wifi at the
Caro Golf.QL3, B-dul Barbu Vcrescu 164A, MAurel
Vlaicu, tel. (+4) 021 208 61 00, www.carohotel.ro. 188
rooms. PTH6UFLKDCW
CHARTER For what you pay at this hotel, you get a large
amount of room indeed. Really: these must be the biggest
hotel rooms in Bucharest, and they cost about 1 per square
metre. Close to the airport (on the other side of the road to
McDonalds) this place is perfect if you have an early flight,
though it is only fair to say that it is a good 30 minutes or so
68 Bucharest In Your Pocket
to the city centre. Still, with rooms and services to match any-
where, and at prices as low as these, we doubt anyone will be
complaining.QDrumul Odaii 1D, Otopeni, tel. (+4) 021 352
87 19, www.hotelcharter.ro. 21 rooms. PTLW
DAN Serving a terrific buffet breakfast this hotel has long
been one of our favourites in Bucharest: we often send
family and friends here. Its location just a short distance
from the city centre is good, and the rooms are well sized,
as are the bathrooms: all of which have tubs, not just
showers. Good, friendly staff, prices which are more than
reasonable and the kind of cosy atmosphere you would
expect of a small well-run hotel. Unsurprisingly, it is often
full: reserve well ahead of time.QM11, B-dul Dacia 125,
tel./fax (+4) 021 210 39 58tel. (+4) 0727 59 95 99, www.
hoteldan.ro/en. 15 rooms. PTHULW
DOUBLETREE BY HILTON Located just off Bulevardul
Unirii, the DoubleTree is something of a beacon of glass
and steel in an area not known for anything except monu-
mental socialist architecture. The hotel is a decent place
offering big-ish rooms, with commendably big bath-
rooms. Happy, multi-lingual staff are a bonus not always
found in Bucharests hotels.QN17, Str. Nerva Traian
3A, tel. (+4) 021 200 62 70, www.doubletree.com. 87
PIATA OBOR
Obor has been a market since at least the 18th century,
when it was known as the Piata Targului de Afara, a
place for traders from outside of Bucharest to do busi-
ness; the name Obor came into use during the early
part of the 19th century. During this period Obor was
infamous as the location of Bucharests gallows: public
executions would take place on market days to ensure
a good crowd. The practice was halted in 1823, but the
gallows itself remained in place until 1870.
Obors main market hall an elegant, modernist
building known as Halele Obor was built in the 1940s.
Its architects, Horia Creanga and Haralamb Georgescu,
also designed the Patria Cinema block on Bulevardul
Magheru. Much as it has been since it opened, the in-
terior of Halele Obor is today mainly given over to fresh
produce, primarily meat. There are also a huge number
of stalls selling all sorts of things from Lenin caps and fur
hats to cheap childrens toys. Fruit and vegetables are
sold in another market hall (much newer) opposite or
from occasional traders who set up shop outside.
When it comes to eating at Obor, the only food per-
mitted are mici: you will find them at the far left hand
entrance/exit to the main market hall (just follow the
smell). Though more than a few locals will tell you to
mind the mici at Obor, we have been eating them for
years, and still served on a bit of card with mustard and
bread - they remain amongst Bucharests best.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Hotels
GOLDEN TULIP TIMES This, people, is a very good
hotel where you get a hell of a lot of room for a relatively
small amount of money. All come furnished well with ter-
rific beds, big desks and comfy armchairs. Bathrooms are
equally impressive and modern. There is Wifi throughout
and a host of extras: not least of which is the fantastic
breakfast. The on site restaurant is one of the best hotel-
based eateries in the city.QB-dul Decebal 19, MPiata
Muncii, tel. (+4) 021 316 65 16, www.goldentuliptimes.
com. 70 rooms. PTHLKW

HELLO HOTELS
Two stars never looked so good. For your paltry amount
of cash you are getting a lot of hotel room here, complete
with flat screen televisions and mattresses thicker than
many a five-star. Bathrooms are a bit pokey but they are
more than adequate, and as far as value for money goes
we think this is one of the best deals in the city. Find the
place a short walk from the station.QF11, Calea Grivitei
143, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0372 12 18 00, www.
hellohotels.ro. 150 rooms. P6ULKW

IBIS GARA DE NORD A hotel for more than 40 years

this building (and the whole area) was given a real lift
when it became a good old Ibis several years ago now.
Expect a room a bit bigger than standard Ibis size, the
usual services, few frills (breakfast costs extra) and all in all
a good value stay. The name is not misleading: it is dead
opposite the station.QF11, Calea Grivitei 143, MGara
de Nord, tel. (+4) 021 300 91 00, www.ibishotels.ro. 250
rooms. PH6ULKW
IBIS PALATUL PARLAMENTULUI
If you want a view of Casa Poporului then this is perhaps
the best place in Bucharest to come. Other than that it is a
fairly standard Ibis hotel, just as you love them from any-
where else on the planet. Not entirely ideally located if you
are not driving, it does boast very good staff.QG15, Str.
Izvor 82-84, tel. (+4) 021 401 10 00, www.ibishotels.ro.
161 rooms. PTH6ULKW
RAMADA HOTEL & SUITES BUCHAREST NORTH
Well located in a quiet residential area near Herastrau
park. It has great rooms - amongst the biggest, on aver-
age, in Bucharest - and the bathrooms are tremendous:
all have bathtubs. There are also studios with kitchenettes
for longer stays. The hotel boasts a good spa centre (with
excellent Turkish bath), a big fitness room with loads of
equipment and an outdoor terrace and swimming pool.
Good lobby bar and fine-dining in the restaurant too.
QStr. Daniel Danielopolu 44A, tel. (+4) 021 233 50 00,
www.ramadanorth.ro. 232 rooms. PTH6UF
LKDCW
REMBRANDT Always full (reserve well in advance) you
will see why when you arrive. The Rembrandt is what hap-
pens when people with taste renovate buildings in Old
Town Bucharest (the gorgeous cafe next door belongs -
unsurprisingly - to the same people). Luxurious without
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
overdoing it, expect to find original 1920s wooden floors
and period furnishings complimented by up-to-the-min-
ute technology.QK14, Str. Smardan 11, MUniversitate,
tel. (+4) 021 313 93 15, www.rembrandt.ro. 16 rooms.
PTUKWJ
TANIA-FRANKFURT This is a cracking little place in the
very heart of Old Town, just a shake or two away from the
citys best nightlife. Rooms are good value, bright and airy,
and are furnished in a modern, bright and airy style. The
best is the split level sky room, with its sky light and raised
sleeping area. Theres free internet for guests.QK15, Str.
Selari 5, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 319 27 58/(+4) 031
104 20 83, www.taniahotel.ro. 13 rooms. PKWJ
TRIANON If location really is everything then you cant
do much better than this cracking place on Str. Cobal-
cescu, next to the Ministry of Defence and opposite Cis-
migiu Park. The building is a superb Secession renovation
on a street that boasts some extraordinary buildings: it is
a shame not all are up to this standard. Inside the rooms
are simple, tastefully decorated and offer excellent value
for money.QH13, Str. Grigore Cobalcescu 9, tel. (+4) 021
311 49 27/(+4) 021 311 49 28, www.hoteltrianon.ro. 26
rooms. PTH6UKW
@bucharestlife
April - May 2017 69
 Hotels
HOSTELS
DOORS HOSTEL
Clean, colourful and rather spacious hostel a short walk
south from Piata Unirii. Located in a classic Bucharest
house it benefits from a gorgeous garden/courtyard, an
all you can eat breakfast and free Wifi, amongst much
else. Note that they have only shared, mixed dorms: there
are no private rooms.QJ17, Str. Olimpului 13, MPiata
Unirii, tel. (+4) 021 336 21 27/(+4) 0726 45 42 03, www.
doorshostel.com. 5 rooms. PTLKW
PURA VIDA SKY BAR & HOSTEL
Complete with a bar on the roof offering views of the
Old Town this well-located place offers bright, colourful
70 Bucharest In Your Pocket
and immaculately clean accommodation for those on
a budget. Some of the rooms are a little cramped and
the showers are perfunctory but the place offers terrific
value for money.QK14, Str. Smardan 7, MPiata Unirii,
tel. (+4) 0786 329 134/(+4) 0769 088 596, www.sky.
puravidahostels.ro/hostel-bucharest. WJ
VILLAS & B&B
BUCHAREST BOUTIQUE ACCOMMODATION
There are two rooms, and one enormous apartment. All of
the accommodation is immaculately furnished to the high-
est standards of good taste. It is a real find this place, and
one we cant recommend enough. Impressively all children
are free if they share their parents room: we wish all Bu-
charest hotels had this policy. Pets are welcome too, and
breakfast is included in the price.QL19, Str. Vitejescu 37,
MTineretului, tel. (+4) 0760 29 66 30, www.bucharest-
boutique-accommodation.ro. 3 rooms. PT6LW
VILA 11 Located in a lovely 1920s house close to Gara de
Nord (one block east of Strada Vespatian and Dinicu Go-
lescu) Vila 11 has a variety of private rooms, dorm facilities
and family suites available for backpackers and families of
all ages. Friendly and welcoming the owners do a great
breakfast (included in the price) and are a wealth of inside
info when it comes to getting the best out of Bucharest.
Prices from 20-54.QE11, Str. Institutul Medico Militar
11, MGara de Nord, tel. (+4) 0722 49 59 00/(+4) 0722
49 59 01, www.vila11.hostel.com. 6 rooms. T6W
SHORT-TERM RENTAL
GRAND ACCOMMODATION Grand Accommoda-
tion has a variety of well furnished apartments and
villas to suit all pockets in good locations available for
both short and long term rentals. Prices from 30-80/
night.QJ-13, Str. Ion Campineanu 29, tel. (+4) 0722
36 75 68/(+4) 021 314 49 50, www.for-rent.ro.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Getting Around Bucharest
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Bucharests public transport network is extensive, covering
all of the city as well as much of its surroundings. It is also
very cheap to use. Services however are poor, and during
the week most forms of transport are overcrowded.

METRO First opened in 1979, Bucharests metro was built

to ship workers from the vast housing estates of Titan, Ber-
ceni and Militari out to the huge industrial plants at Pipera,
IMGB, Republica and Industriilor. Thats all very well if you
are resident of Titan working at IMGB, but useless to every-
body else. The city centre is poorly served by the metro and
only the north-south M2 line, from Pipera to Berceni, which
passes through Piatas Victoriei, Romana and Unirii, and the experience. Buses, trolleybuses and trams run from early in
M1 branch to the Gara de Nord, are likely to be of any use to the morning (around 04:30) to around 23:00, after which the
visitors. In our listings, all venues which are within walking night bus network takes over. All night buses depart from
distance of a metro station carry the M symbol. Piata Unirii.

METRO TICKETS Tickets for the metro can be purchased
at all metro stations. Tickets valid for two journeys cost 5 lei,
while a ticket valid for ten journeys costs 20 lei. You can also
buy a daily ticket for 8 lei, while a weekly ticket costs 25 lei.
TRAMS, BUSES & TROLLEYBUSES (RATB) Most main
roads in the city centre benefit from three or four different
transport routes. Many buses are overcrowded, however,
and travelling on them can often be a less than pleasant
RATB TICKETS To use a bus, trolleybus or tram you will
need to buy an Activ card before climbing aboard. These
cards cost 3.70 lei, and can be bought from the little kiosks
next to major stops. They need to be loaded with credit
(minimum 5 lei) and are reusable. The card is then debited
each time you validate it at one of the orange devices located
on buses, trams and trolleybuses. One trip costs 1.30 lei. On
all forms of public transport in Bucharest children under the
age of seven travel free. After that they need a full-price ticket.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 71

 Getting Around Bucharest
GARA DE NORD
Bucharests only major railway station is close to the city
centre, one stop from Piata Victoriei on the M1 metro line.
It is not being too unkind to suggest that the station has
seen better days, and that it is not the friendliest place in
the city. Fortunately, Gara de Nord is relatively small and
easy to navigate: you will not need to spend any great
amount of time here. All of the platforms lead to the same
main concourse, where you will see signs for buses, taxis
and the metro. There are a number of press/refreshment
kiosks, left-luggage lockers, a supermarket and even a
McDonalds and a KFC. The public toilets are acceptable
(and cost 1 leu to use). Avoid all of the currency exchange
kiosks - they offer appalling rates of exchange. Use one of
the many ATMs instead.
To get to the city centre, take an honest taxi from the
official taxi station outside (ignore anyone who ap-
proaches you inside the station). If no taxi is waiting,
use one of the two touch screens to order one. You can
also hop on the metro, or take the bus: No. 123 goes
to Piata Unirii, No. 85 to Piata Universitatii and No. 780
goes to the airport. Bus tickets (in the form of an Activ
or Multiplu card) can be bought from the little metal
kiosk next to the bus stop (which is itself next to the taxi
rank). Note that both the last buses and the last metro
services leave Gara de Nord at around 23:00.
When departing from Gara de Nord, note that queues
at the ticket office can be long: do not leave buying a
ticket until the last minute, as you may end up missing
your train. Indeed, you are advised to buy train tickets
well in advance, especially if you are planning on taking
a sleeper service.
1 = 4.55 lei (March 31, 2017)
72 Bucharest In Your Pocket
TO & FROM THE AIRPORT
Otopeni Henri Coanda is Bucharests only international air-
port, located 17 kilometres north of the city. When arriving,
avoid the currency exchange desk placed directly before
passport control: the rates are very poor. To get your hands
on local cash use one of the many ATMs in the main arrivals
hall. The pedestrian walkway which connects the arrivals and
departures terminal contains car hire desks, a newsagent and
a chemist. Downstairs is the internal flight arrivals terminal,
and a small supermarket.
To get to the city centre, your best bet is to take a taxi.
To do so, look for the touch screens in the arrivals hall. They
are easy to use, and you can choose from the full range of Bu-
charest taxi companies: all have their tariffs clearly displayed.
Once the taxi company of your choice has informed you (via
the screen) how long the taxi will take to arrive, and what ID
number the taxi has (take the ticket which will be printed:
you need to hand it to the driver), you simply go outside to
wait for your taxi. Just make sure you get into the right taxi:
check the company name and ID number with the one on
your ticket. Ignore the sign saying Rapid Taxi. These are over-
priced taxis which are allowed to wait downstairs, directly
outside the internal arrivals terminal. The journey into the
city centre with a cheap, honest cab will cost from 40-50 lei.
For those who want to head into town in a bit more
comfort, there are good private car options: TransVision
(airport-transfer-bucharest.com) and VMS City Shuttle (city-
shuttle.ro). Both offer a reliable airport transfer service at
decent prices. You can also get to town by taking bus No.
783, which stops underneath the arrivals hall and leaves for
the city centre every 30 minutes during the day, and then
every 40 minutes through the night. Another bus, No. 780,
runs to Gara de Nord from 05:30 - 23:05. You need to pur-
chase an Activ card before boarding either bus (get it from
the little booth which youll find on your right hand side as
you exit the arrivals building). A return journey into the city
and back costs 7 lei (no singles are available). You also need
to pay 3.70 lei for the card, but it can be recharged as often
as you like at any ticket kiosk in Bucharest, and used on all
Bucharest buses and trams. The cards cannot be bought on
board.
When departing from Otopeni, allow yourself plenty of
time to get there: at least an hour if you are taking the bus,
particularly during the morning and evening rush hours.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Getting Around Bucharest
BUCHAREST TAXIS
Taxis in Bucharest are yellow, ubiquitous and very cheap,
but only as long as you get into the correct taxi. Fortu-
nately, that means the vast majority of them. Unfortu-
nately, it is still far too easy for the uninitiated to be ripped
off.

The important thing to remember when getting into a

taxi in Bucharest is that there are two kinds: those which
are operated by a tried and trusted taxi company (good)
and independents (usually bad, often very bad).

By and large, trustworthy taxis are easy to spot as they

are emblazoned with the name and phone number of
the company they are associated with (such as AS, Co-
balcescu, Confort, Cristaxi, Meridian, Mondial, Pelican and
Speed). To counter this, some dodgy taxi drivers plaster
copy-cat logos all over their cabs: logos that look cun-
ningly like those of decent taxi companies.

The best way to avoid being ripped off however is to pay

careful attention to the tariffs, displayed on the driver and
passenger door of all taxis. There should just be one single
tarif displayed, and anything higher than 1.69 lei per kilo-
metre should start alarm bells ringing. Indeed: never pay
more than 1.69 lei per kilometre. Be extra careful when
getting into a taxi around Gara de Nord, Baneasa Airport,
Bucuresti Mall, Piata Universitatii, Piata Unirii and the Old
Town / Lipscani area, especially at night. When leaving a
hotel or restaurant, always have the concierge or waiter
order you a cab. At Otopeni Airport, ignore any taxi driv-
ers who approach you in the arrivals hall, and use the taxi
ordering system.

As an alternative to standard taxis, Uber is also now pre-

sent in Bucharest, so if you have an Uber account and the
app on your phone you can use it while in the city. Stand-
ard rate fares are about the same as (if not slightly cheaper
than) taxis. There is also the bonus that Ubers tend to be
far cleaner than your average taxi, and drivers far nicer
people. A similar service is also provided by Taxify, an Es-
tonian start-up. Again, you will need to download the app
on to your phone before ordering a car.

TRUSTED TAXI COMPANIES

Apolodor (+4) 021 9499, Cobalcescu (+4) 021 9451,
Cristaxi (+4) 021 9461, Meridian (+4) 021 9444, Mon-
dial (+4) 021 9423, Pelicanul (+4) 021 9665.
Most of these companies have at least one operator who
speaks English.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 73

 Getting Around Bucharest
TRAINS
Romanias railways are in an awful state. More than two
decades of little more than total neglect has rendered
much of the countrys railway infrastructure dangerously
out of date, and large swathes of Romania now see no train
services at all. Even in those of parts of the country where
trains still run, services are invariably slow, infrequent and
subject to long delays. CFR (Compania Naional de Ci
Ferate) - which operates the trains - perennially verges
on bankruptcy and has become a byword for inefficiency.
Whats more, ticket prices are no longer the bargain they
once were, and while they remain relatively low by inter-
national standards, for many Romanians on low incomes
the train is now out of reach. An InterRegio adult single
from Bucharest to Brasov currently costs 73 lei. trains per day at the moment, although more may follow
Should you have to take a train in Romania, always try
to get an InterCity (IC - although note these are few and far
between) or InterRegio (IR) as they are the fastest and usu-
ally have the most modern rolling stock. Regio (R-) trains
(which until recently were known as Personal), are slow and
often use much older carriages.
To buy train tickets, visit either the station, a CFR
agency or buy online at cfrcalatori.ro. Fairly substantial
74 Bucharest In Your Pocket
reductions are available for buying online return tickets in
advance. It is also worth noting that if buying tickets online
you need to do so at least 12 hours before the train is due to
depart. After that you will need to purchase them from the
station or a CFR ticket agency. In all cases, do not leave buy-
ing tickets to the last minute: long queues could mean you
miss your train. Tickets cannot be purchased on CFR trains,
though in the worst case scenario you can try bribing the
guard. Many locals do this habitually.
On the privately run Hyperion trains, however, which
depart Bucharest for Brasov at 09:23 and 10:30 each morn-
ing, you can buy tickets on board. There is also free Wifi and
a coffee machine: a refreshing change to CFR. Whats more,
tickets cost just 30 lei. There are, alas, just the two private
soon. For more info, see the website softrans.ro.
The full Romanian train timetable is online at cfrcalatori.ro.
AGENTIA DE VOIAJ CFR CFRs advance booking of-
fices: you can buy tickets up to one hour before depar-
tire time.QF-10, Calea Grivitei 139, MGara de Nord,
tel. (+4) 021 313 26 42, www.cfr.ro. Open 08:00-18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
 Getting Around Bucharest
CAR RENTAL
AVISQK15, B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 4 (InterContinental
Hotel), tel. (+4) 021 210 43 44, www.avis.ro. Open 07:00-
21:00. Also at F-16, Calea 13 Septembrie nr. 90 (JW Mar
riott Hotel), Open 08:00-17:00; Mon, Fri 07:00-21:00; D-1,
Bd. Poligrafiei 1 (Crowne Plaza Hotel), Open 07:00-16:00;
Mon, Fri 07:00-21:00; Henri Coanda (Otopeni) Airport,
Open 07:00-01:00; Sos. Pipera - Tunari 2 (Porsche Bucur
esti Nord), Open 07:00-21:00, Closed Sat, Sun.

BUDGET QJ10, Calea Dorobanti 5-7 (Sheraton Hotel),

tel. (+4) 021 210 28 67, www.budget.ro. Open 09:00-
19:00. Also at Henri Coanda (Otopeni) Airport, tel. (+4)
021 204 16 67, Open 07:00 - 21:00.

CARS4RENT QStr. Drumul Odaii 1D (Hotel Charter),
tel. (+4) 0723 34 71 92/(+4) 0372 99 99 99, fax (+4) 021
352 87 16, www.cars4rent.ro. Open 24 hrs.
COMPACT RENT-A-CAR
QG9, B-dul N. Titulescu 1, Bl A7, Sc. 1, Et. 6, Ap. 16, tel.
(+4) 021 312 98 57/(+4) 0744 58 67 24, fax (+4) 021 312
99 82, www.compact-rentacar.ro. Prices from 18/day.
also available in Cluj, Satu Mare, Craiova, Targu Mures,
Constanta, Iasi, Sibiu, Timisoara.
HERTZ
QJ9, Calea Dorobani 50B (Marshal Garden Hotel), tel.
(+4) 021 407 82 00, www.hertz.ro. Also at Henri Coanda
(Otopeni) Airport, tel. (+4) 021 204 12 78, Open 08:00
- 22:00.

EUROPCARQH6, Str. Grigore Mora 17, tel. (+4) 021 MAGRENTAQHenri Coanda (Otopeni) Airport, tel.
310 17 97/(+4) 0740 04 49 64, www.europcar.ro. Open (+4) 0751 11 73 68, www.magrenta.com. Open 09:00
09:00 - 17:30. Also at Henri Coanda (Otopeni) Airport - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00, Open 24hrs on request.
tel. (+4) 0374 00 40 57, Open 08:00 - 22:00. Service Also at Intrarea Frasinului 9, Voluntari, Ilfov.

facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket April - May 2017 75

 Bucharest Basics
CRIME & SAFETY
We do not exaggerate when we say that Bucharest is one
of the safest capital cities in Europe in which to walk the
streets. If you do not go looking for trouble, the chances of
you getting into any are small. While pickpockets are eve-
rywhere (you should be particularly careful on crowded
buses), violent crime is almost unheard of, and anyone can
walk the citys streets alone at night in relative safety. The
Romanian police force is also far better and less corrupt
than it used to be and keeps a visual presence on the citys
streets, especially in busy areas such as Old Town at night.
The main police station in Bucharest is on B-dul Lascar
Cartagiu (I-10), halfway between Piata Romana and Piata
Victoriei. If you are driving, or are out late at night, it is a good
idea to carry at least a photocopy of your passport and driv-
ing license.
Drinking in public (except in designated areas) leaves
you open to a fine, and despite appearances to the contrary,
prostitution is illegal. If you are arrested ask to speak to your
embassy.
TOURIST INFORMATION
INFO TOURIST CENTER Privately-run centre on
Calea Victoriei which is phenomenally helpful and per-
haps even better than the citys official tourist informa-
tion office.QJ-13, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) 021
211 33 66. Open 9:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
76 Bucharest In Your Pocket
FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS
AUSTRIA QL-11 Str. Dumbrava Rosie 7, tel. (+4) 021
201 56 124.
BELGIUM QJ-10, B-dul Dacia 58, tel. (+4) 021 210 29 69.
BULGARIA QI-7, Str. Rabat 5, tel. (+4) 021 230 21 50.
CANADA QG-7, Str. Tuberozelor 1-3, tel. (+4) 021 307
50 00.
CZECH REPUBLIC QK-14, Str. Ion Ghica 11, tel. (+4) 021
303 92 30.
DENMARK QN-13, Str. Dr. Burghelea 3, tel. (+4) 021 300
08 00.
FINLAND QI-7, Str. Atena 2bis, tel. (+4) 021 230 75 45.
FRANCE QI-11, Str. Biserica Amzei 13-15, tel. (+4) 021
303 10 00.
GERMANY QH-7, Cpt. Av. Gh. Demetriade 6-8, tel. (+4)
021 202 98 30.
GREECE QN-13, Str. Pache Protopopescu 1-3, tel. (+4)
021 209 41 70.
HUNGARY QL-12, Str. Jean Louis Calderon 63-65, tel.
(+4) 031 620 43 00.
IRELAND QG-10, Str. Buzesti 50-52, et. 3, tel. (+4) 021
310 21 31.
ITALY QI-10, Str. Henri Coanda 9, tel. (+4) 021 305 21 00.
MOLDOVA QH-8, Aleea Alexandru 40, tel. (+4) 021 230
04 74.
NETHERLANDS QH-7, Str. Aleea Alexandru 20, tel. (+4)
021 208 60 30.
NORWAY QJ-11, Str. George Enescu 11, 6th floor, tel.
(+4) 021 306 98 00.
POLAND QI-8, Aleea Alexandru 23, tel. (+4) 021 308
22 00.
RUSSIA QG-7, Sos. Pavel Kiseleff 6, tel. (+4) 021 222 31 70.
SERBIA QK-10, Calea Dorobantilor 34, tel. (+4) 021 211
98 71.
SPAIN QH-7, Aleea Alexandru 43, tel. (+4) 021 318 10 80.
SWEDEN QG-7, Sos. Kiseleff 43, tel. (+4) 021 406 71 00.
SWITZERLAND QI-9, Str. Grigore Alexandrescu 16-20,
tel. (+4) 021 206 16 00.
UK QK-11, Str. Jules Michelet 24, tel. (+4) 021 201 72 00.
USA QB-dul Liviu Librescu 4-5, tel. (+4) 021 200 33 00.
LEFT LUGGAGE
There are left luggage lockers (which include plugs where
you can charge phones and such like) at Gara de Nord. They
cost from 5 lei (for three hours) to 10 lei (for ten hours).
There is also a conventional left luggage service at the sta-
tion, close to the main exit, where it costs 5 lei per small bag
per 24 hours. You will need ID.
MONEY
Romanias currency is the leu (plural lei), divided into 100
bani. Leu notes come in denominations of 500, 200, 100,
50, 10, 5 and 1. There are also 50, 10, 5 and 1bani coins. 1
is currently worth 4.51 lei. The best place to get your hands
on lei is at an ATM. If you have to change cash, do it inside
bucharest.inyourpocket.com

TAKING A PEE
The Universitate underpass (K-13) and Piata Victoriei metro
station (H-9) offer public loos, as does Gara de Nord (F-10).
Otherwise, youll have to head for the nearest McDonalds.
The portable toilets in the citys parks are best avoided un-
less you are seriously desperate.
a bank. Never change money at exchange offices (case de
schimb valutar): they offer appalling rates and charge high
commissions. Credit and debit cards (MasterCard and Visa)
are accepted almost everywhere. American Express cards
are less widely accepted, but can be used in Bancpost ATMs.
POLITICS
Romanias Head of State is President Klaus Iohannis, the for-
mer Mayor of Sibiu whose victory in 2014s presidential elec-
tion was something of a surprise. Romanias government is
led by Prime Minister Sorin Grindeanu, appointed in Janu-
ary after his party, the Social Democrats (PSD), emerged
as the largest in Decembers election. Alone, the PSD does
not have a parliamentary majority, and governs alongside a
smaller party, ALDE, in a coalition. The Union of Hungarians
in Romania (UDMR) is not formally part of the coalition but
usually backs the government. The main opposition parties
are the Liberals (PNL) and the Union to Save Romania (USR).
facebook.com/bucharestinyourpocket
Bucharest Basics
WHEN THINGS GO WRONG
In an emergency call 112. You do not need to use the
city code. You will be asked which service you require
(Politia/Police, Ambulanta/Ambulance or Pompierii/
Firemen). Emergency call centre operators should speak
English or French but in our experience they do not al-
ways do so. At least make sure you know the name of
the street you are calling from. If you get into trouble
with the Police, demand to call your embassy. There is
a list opposite. The citys main police station is at (I-10)
Str. Lascar Cartagiu 22, tel. (+4) 021 212 56 84. The best
state-run (and free) Casualty Unit (Emergency Room)
in the city is at the Spitalul de Urgente, (K-8) Calea Florea-
sca 8, next to Dinamo Stadium (Stefan cel Mare metro
station). If you do not fancy waiting at a state hospital,
use the private Regina Maria Euroclinic hospital just
up the road at (K-8) Calea Floreasca 14A. Emergency
consultations cost 220 lei. There are pharmacies all
over the city: most stay open late. In a nighttime emer-
gency you will find a 24-hour branch of the Sensiblu
chain at (J-6), Str. Radu Beller 6, close to Piata Dorobanti.
Bucharests best English-speaking dentist is in fact Ger-
man. Find him at (I-6) Calea Dorobantilor 208, tel. (+4)
021 231 88 56, www.germandentist.ro. In a dental emer-
gency tel. (+4) 0726 66 69 99 (24 hours).
April - May 2017 77
 ti
Ale era
e

leti Best Western Strada Feleacu
A Bicu C D E F G Herastrau H I J K a LPip M N 36 O
Aleea Bicule
B a Pajurei
Strada Plus Expocenter ea u

Ploie
ti os 16
lu i Free Press House 5

eti-
1 BUCHAREST CITY a Parcu Ramada Plaza
Bule Strada
G Strada Bora PLATFORMA 1
Stra d vard liei peiu Pipera (M2)
Bucharest ul P

ucur
escu 16 36 Pom

Intrarea

B
Strada Aviaiei
oligr
Scale 1:40000 Ramada afie Insula Parcul Herstru AVIAIEI cr itrie
1 cm = 400 m
i a M2 r bu V so r Dim INDUSTRIAL PIPERA

aua
Bucharest Parc o du l B

os
Copiilor

Solzilor
ra P S tr Profe
oseaua Pipera oseaua Pipe rd ul

eau
Strada Nisipari
0 200 400 600 800 m Crowne Plaza Bucharest ad

Str

a
Buleva

ose
ad
OpenStreetMap contributors. Cimitirul Sovietic Aurel Vlaicu

Nor
d
Available under the Open Database License. Parcul icului Promenada
Strada Ceasorn

ului
Cimitirul Mall

a G Barb
Herstru

Strada Nicolae Caramfil

ti Aviation Museum z
Herstru de Gluco

ara u V
2 Teren 2

Strada
Strada Moeciu

r
abrica

u
de aua F

Strada Zgazului
Her cr
Priporului ose
Aleea

d ul M
Fotbal

Parculu
i
str escu
Intra
42

Str
rea

Bulevar
ada
C arpai Pullman Bucharest 41

Chef
World Trade Center Lacul Herstru
Strad
a

jing
i

ose
eg rm
alulu
42

B ei
Buc i
a
ulu i

C
d ul

5
Stra iiei rd

aua P
Intrare
ul Expoz eva Caro 3

v
a Valu

av
Bul
3 a Soveja Bulevard

olenti
d 42 42 Insula lui

el
Stra

na

eni e
nei
16 36

Trandafirilor

D
Str

41
Dor

i
rgh
da ada
Stra ICPA Lacul

rilor
Aleea

lbu
ntina
Avi

uine
. Tu

Strad

ir cet
imitri
ato

sc a
r Tei

aC
a to
a

nS

d
da B
tra

Cole

a Avi
va
Pop
rei

M2

evici
avig

aI
Parc

Stra
Stra
ite

Flore
1 MAI an Village Museum Parcul Bordei ad io a
vi c

u
Dendrologic o

ator Tr
ndului

da N
24 S tr mb

Bulev
1 Mai D

Calea

in
Tei

aian
Kisele
a

Stra
42 4 Palatul Elisabeta Parcul Herstru

ff
5 ad

Ca
4 4

ardul
Parcul Verdi S tr l ui

Aviatorilor
Stadionul
Colen

da
Vasile
Strad Palatul Primaverii eu
Bule
a

stru
National Olt

Stra
Mr
Flori vard

A le e a
a
tina

lor Lacul Floreasca ad

ti

cr
de Rugby
Str

ul Io DOMENIIn Sandu-Aldea leanu

n

Nu
Bule
ri Str
randului Tei

Str

ad

Ru
v
stanti ea Z o cu rii
ad

Mih
aG

Bulevardul
a Con Grdina Japonez l uu ve

i
al r Mirc eu
h

ad a
aC
e a t

ardu
Strad

Strada Her
l
ach Aviato tre Cr

M4
nic
Prim
eor

Str
antinescu l
aro

real tor Pe Al e

Stra
a a
gh

Lai tru
a M A v Const rdu
ten

tS
a
i

da
Mirc
e

ndru
5

Strad Strad x a eva

or
le Arcul de Triumf

ada Lo
ie

S tr a escu Bul

ea E

ica

Str rada
ean

iaril
da Residence Strada A n
S t

M
Domenii Plaza

rov
5 Her tefan Piscina Bamboo Lacul Tei 5

liade
ma aior PRIMVERII

onn
nO 24

41
et

sc u
42 tr a da M

ber S

e
ler
th 45

Ene
Piaa Aviatorilor

Str
cu l
na
Str
Stra

FLOREASCAStrada Piotr Ilici Ceaikovski

sie
Strad

ad y ran ei
a

in

Ele

n In ada Fe
aC Strada Urugua ehe ri T
art

ana
G

Io
o Puccini

adu Bel
opi da T
da Tu

ribaldi

a
lulu Parcul Floreasca am Parcul Tei

Ath
ian Bach

i Stra
Chop
zla

aR

a
rigor

r ad
ad

Cale
eus Moz

St Str

t r ad
C
e C.

eppe Ga

S
Strada Cluc
a

Aviator R

a Gr
Stra AVIATORILOR

Is luce
Zos Miss
a Vid

Z
Mo

n Sebast

ia
da

iv
im
it
in

a
il
TVR 6 36
Strada Giacom
isil

i e r u lu
6 uta 6
ng Amad

ara

iei
Strad
enilo 14 1

C
eral Gius

Pan ada
Stra

Strad

ulu

u
l
Strad ambile

i
n

aria
i Residence a Doc
l

da
Strada Cerna

cotenent

Strada Popa Savu

Str
olfga

nescu
aS

irg
Strad
Strad a Aromei or

ad

ada Str an
o

iret
da B

Strad Strada O

aM
Bu
Arc de Triomphe

a Ghe
eorge Cli
a

a
osea

ad

a V mitru George

Stra
Str Pleo ima ail

Str
Strad
rea V

Strada G

aS
d
lev
Strad

41
a

Zambaccian Museum
Cale

Str
erec

Strada Doctor Grigore Mora

d
a
Bulevardul Aviatorilor
Strada Emil Pangratti

Str a Vas nu
ua
Strada Emanoil Porumbaru

r
Strada Johan
pane

a
z

TEI
Str

orghe
rescu

Str

St da D Strada trati reasa

a Ca
het

lui Zamfir

P
Stra

ul

dr u

Strada W ada Frederic

Stra
a Pu

a
Strada L
Intra fntul Petr

ada Tei
Strad ul

v
Strada Muzeul Zambaccian

a Barb

i
j Sfnt i Ghi ppe
l Io
Isla i
lafat

Piccolo un

Strada
olia

n
Doro

lu
z
olta u Tei

acul che Ban

alte
Intrarea Bit ul L ca Te el B

Brtia

nM

ud
Mondo
ba

ctio
ru c

Stra
asc

aH
u te
e

ih
nu
l

d
ei

u vard Dumitra iculeasa rdul Ghi and

a
Abr

da
el Dim
f
arbu Vc

Strada Sofia tefan Alex

Gala
ala
B trada ria Gh uleva

Stra
udor a
da Tu Stra

nilo

Cluceru
Eiffe

lo

r
r

Intrarea T S da Ma B e tra S

Iani
S

ala

u da C rada a Hag l Kna hel

che
GRIVIA

lui
Stra t ra

T
7 Treim 7

nescu

S da
is

Strada Rabat da

a G vschi

a
rnul da Fib

Sfnta Vineri

Buz
itrievic
fnta Ote
ltea

d
Par

Stra
Calea Flore

ad Str St Strad a Caro e Gherg

l rei

na

an

iner
da S

r
i

oia

da
Strada B
14 16 3

reasca Stra

St Zab
Ate

ni
6
cu

Str
ada

Ing trada
ala Flo

P
e
Strada Turbin a

ru
11- Aleea a co nu

i Kise
r un
Str

ada
Strada D

44

24
nes

da
ulc
Parcul Regina Maria Strad

and
aru or Via
Str

Tonola

x
42
oamna O
ele
e Io

Strada Roma

leff
a Tud

Delavrancea

Nec

Stra
r

Ale
45
S trada Ispravnicului
ni

n
Strad
Strada Judeului

Cimitirul Parcul Circului

5

Modrog
Cimitirul

nu
rigo

Cimitirul Calvin 41
a A l e x a n d ru

a Io
St r Evreiesc Circus Globus Strada oltuzului

pea
Parcul Kiseleff

Abrud
ad
Renvierea
an
da G

Strada D

ada
il

Bulevardul Aviatorilor

m
an

Str
Stadionul Giuleti -

Mai
Grivia
S t ra

Poru
(Colentina)

rC
mm Strada Prgarilor
is

trada
mba - Valentin Stnescu ton

aio
cu aA

a9
Strada

L udescu
Strada Washing

M
Par Ale e

nta

d
ad 8
inu Vint

Stadionul Stra
Ma Str da R

a da
8Stra

ica
Peasant

24
ada

Geology Museum

iiu S

M4

Stra
o
da nu DOROBANI Dinamo

r
env

t
Str
t

C ale
a
42
Str

M1

S
Ba Museum ierii

u
Strad
Nonna Mia

B
1
Brazilia

Gran Str ul

45
Aleea Circului
anu

Emergency

esc

Ceahl
4 36

ada
Strada D

ada ard

46

a Giu
Podul

rge
a Sc
Institutul Matei Bals

arin
Clinic Hospital

ul
41 lev

Str
Pet
r

C
Str u Bu

Geo
Strada Londra

eM
a Lize

leti
ai BUCHAREST CENTRE

a
a da

46 Strada
ale

d
ach
Grigore Antipa Museum Piaa Victoriei 2

rlte

t
Calea Crng

s
aG Com aior of Natural History 46 1

Co
Strad

Stra
Piata Victoriei oseaua tefan cel Mare

scu
Strada Argentina

ana 46
rivi
1

ada
lae Filimon ncu de Hunedoara
Doctor
oseaua
ei tefan cel Mare

Str
Strada Nico 1 Nicola
e Titulescu 1 46 Pasajul Palace1 46 M1 Bulevardul Ia
ceti
5

9 Strada Luc Strada Paul Greceanu

tin
izeului Victoria Piaa Victoriei 1 xandrescu

are
M1

R
Strada Al
Pas 9
rigore Ale
Strada

Cos
C ran i

Strada M
eti

aju
Iacob Feli

escu 1 B Strada G Strada Badea ma l

etru
on
i nc a G o l
x

Basarab

P
16

1- Afu
Strad

ule
Str
Strada Ghiocei

Strada Z

Mir

Strada
ble 44
Obo

Cder

altopol
var e la
ada

ada
r

35
a Buz

p ol
Stra

Str
Aleea i o dud

ad a

Str
ad dul
a Tun

r
a

t
vast
Strad

R
Pove

aI Central

Pasca
oioar

S
a B
Las

l
ari
da F

d n a a Se da

Str. Alex. Ivasiuc

Strada

Ra oan 42 4 a
Strad 5 Police
Strad
rnei

a cr
St r a da S

ea Basti

a d B 46 Strad Str Obor

i

S tr
a Au r
ina

Railway Museum ian oas

ri

u Cat Station
Calea Dorobanilor

liei

4 u M an

Cristia
Stra

Stadionul Sportul rum a rg ri

el V

5-4 M4 rghe
o iu Rsu
Polon

1-3 da F e a Strada
da H

Gh
laic

Studenesc 44 eonid
pe

Stra .

n, Ing
GARA DE NORD
u
ui

M1
Strada Vasile Lascr

10 10
od ch

i Gen u
rul

Str Strada L
46
o

in er
ulu Strad da rec
V ii Ve

St r a Gara de Nord 1 rghe Polizu M2 ad

o

tanislav Cihoschi

o
enri Co

ab a Occ
Viit

ent aM aP
Cale

da S u Gara de Nord 2 a Ghe identului Stra George d

rag

sar
nei

Enescu
da

Afl
ihai Em

erei
c e Strad Stra
and

Ba inescu Vila Arte

St r

REGIE ni
aD

ada e v ozi Museum

tr
Stra

Bari

jul
Bu
24 42 45
oam

Strada B d
ada

o
Bul

Victo

egiei ih le Ibis Cale ii Voi

 hor

d
aA
a Str

ia
eva

a
21
ardul Sfin
ea Gr

oriei
Bulevardu

Pas
rd e
Daci

16

Stra
Bulev rdu iviei
l ada ul l Dacia Dan

len
i

levard
Str

35
Str Piaa Roman Parcul Ion Voicu

Strad
vard zei a Roie

ul
Vila 11 Dinic ada Hello

Vesp as
r
Bule Am brav

oseaua Orh
uG G Hotels um

St
Andy ca D

Strad
a

sc

1-11-
ole rii d r ad Biseri

a nei
Splaiul

n
a Strad

ng
Indepe scu eN aP

tti
Strad

or

Ic o
e La

Strada
11 Calea Griviei S t r ada Vaselor 11

ideelor
opa
ndene ord
i

Wi
iei

a Dioni s
sil

da
oil
M1 mel s cu zei

Tat

da
a

eral G

u
44

ie L
lc n e

a
s t ru

24
cu
a Ca P i a a A m

a Va
ircea Vu Grdina Icoanei St r e

Str
Strada

upu
Strad

n es
Strada Cluei

ea M
Splaiul Strada M Sarroglia a Si l v

ne i
eE

heorg
Indepe

Strad
a Hotel

Cal
n i eorg Stra

Strad
ndene Strada Pi c tor A rthur Verona
i cu Cria da G da O
Grozveti nes S trad a ransi
lvanie a
n Stra Strada Maria Rosetti ltaru
lu
i

a Toam

he Ma
Strada Traia
Vulc Stra da T da Temia
n

Stra

Strada
21

S t r ad
Strad
rescu M ircea niei
u Cez a a Pop

S trada
acedo osetti

Calea
d

aD
Atheneum

5 16
conom

gheru
a Pet
S tr a Strada M . A. R re

Lute
da E Strada Thomas Masaryk

rajn
Str

a
Stra nd I

Ple v
12 Theodor Aman Museum Strada C 12

Berz
ad

n
r a n
ei dina

ei
aC

5
ir giliu Strada tirbei Vod orb l Fer

i
u

1-3
da V

Bulev
National Art Museum eni

o p a Rusu
Stra vard

1-1
ei

rulu
atit da Theodor Pallady a Olari Bule pescu
Sala Palatului Protopo

ardul
aB

pta
Piata Revolutiei Stra Museum Strad

nei
M3 St rad Pache

Bule
Strad a It alian

Stra
da S
Greek Temple Bulevardul
Grdina

Nico
Armenian

pera
Popa

24-4
4
Stra da Armen e asc Strad

S t r ad
Church

ilea
Botanic
14

vardu

a
Strad a
nu acovi

da S
R

24-44
Nan

Dm rol I

lae B
Tudo
Bucureti e Parcul Cimigiu r Ar imitrie

O st a
S t r a da Ion Cmpinea

Stra

l Sch
bov da D

sile M
13 eont i rdul C2a1 lor 13

ghe
i C. L a Buleva Stra

itu
Plante

zi

ilor
National Theatre
16
a A.

lces
cen Parcul
Str. Strada Au str

Strada
a

Strad Romanian Lacul Strada M a t e i Millo Hemingway

t

cu
Bazin apa Cotroceni otro C a le
ului

Operei Quine
da

e as

Mgu
aC National Cimigiu Residence

r
a Pl

oseaua Grozveti
Rin Central
1
Cercul EdgarUniversitate
Opera (ONB) evne
Strada
ntul

s eau i
62
Str a Traian

o Universitate

eanu
Militar

Bulevardul Va
Brezoianu
Politehnica ri
51
Eroilor
a M

ei egusto re
d

Cotroceni Museum Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta Coltea da N Popa S o a Strada Zefirului

Col

Bu l
M3 Bulevardul Iuliu Maniu
e
Parcul Eroilor M1/M Bulevardul Mihail Koglniceanu od

ei
3 Stra ada
Stra

Bulevardul Eroii Sanitari a V

vr
S t r ada Eforiei
Hospital Strada Str Jewish Community Centre epe
Cotroceni
dul

ctor i
Stra Piaa Sfntul tefan

Strada Ion
d Stra S tra d a
Splaiul Independen
Complexul Studenesc Leul ei

Vi
i l or d a Z b r u l ui
14 Palace Strada Lipscani National a D o a m n ei o C al ea C l railor 14
Hrist

terie
COTROCENIEroilor
l ef Izvor 5 16 21
Mo
Davila ul Bank

an
fntul E 14 40 56 40 56

Calea

Strada Cost
ada Ana of Romania S tr a d a B l n a r i
ea
ard Strada S

ov
Str lev Holocaust Sfntul Cal

ache
o Botev

a Ilf
ai l Bu Memorial

d
ile

er
Strada Frunta Anghel Mih Parcul Izvor CENTRUL Gheorghe aciu Vas

S t ra
Strada Preot L u c

List
o su

Strada Smrd
National

Ne g r i

Bulevard u l Ge
u

Dm
AFI Palace Cotroceni ISTORIC Cop

elari
mitr

e ph
Strada Labirint

niul
bov
Savings Strad
r Du
Strada

Bank
ad
liu S t r ada Dacia
rne

ui
ia
a

a Fra Matei Basarab

Jos
asa n B l Co
gd Bulevardul Naiu cez du
Str M2

nilor Unite Small Theatre

raian

Ba
S tra da

1-11-35
ri

ctor
ei ulevar
Romanian B

ada
Arenele BNR NH BucharestS
ului

15 IMAX/Cinema City 15
da T

Romulus

a Do
M1/M3 tra

Str
Military

d
Izvor ntori
tra

da
S

1-8-11-25 Academy ada a V 14 40 56 i Jewish Theatre

trad Justice Palace ular

Stra
S

Parcul Romniceanu

Str
oara Piaa Unirii 1
Parfum

Anto

8-25-35 Bulevardul Timi Parc S Mm tr a

n

o da
da

d a Sfnta Vineri

S tr
sea St r a Pa
od

ada A S tr nn
ua lexandru a d a S fi nii Apostoli Piaa Unirii 2 V Str a Strada M
Pan Vit Casa Strada N e g r u axi
d zu mi
u ri Pro Poporului li a n
Po p per
f

Ministerul Aprrii

Stra
t or
Piaa Unirii

es o Bulevardul Unirii

d
r D oc
7

1-
S

Bulevardul Libertii
16 berei 16

aM
Pasajul Unirii

8-
JW Marriott Bucharest

1
Drumul Ta u 2-4 Piaa trada
B CENTRUL CIVIC
7-3

ihai
1-
Grand Hotel esc S p

25
org 7-2 Bibescu ibescu

l Se
b rie e V o d

ba
Str Calea 13 Septembrie Strada Rad
te m g eG aria uV DoubleTree by Hilton
Bulevardul Mircea Vod

ada

stia
Sep aM

n
e or
laiu od

n
l Uniri

Iov
i

lui i a a 13 d aG e gi Radu Vod l Mreti B ulevardul Octavian Goga 1 23 27

anu Cale lR Pasaju

nus
Plat Strada Sire Stra
Al e ea rdu ite

St r a d
nelor Monastery Bucur Church
Strada Oielor

Ura
1

atele Un
r

e va

aM
Iu
an 1

Strada Princip
ucu

Bul

Drumul Srii
7
B

ui Parcul Emil Grleanu

n
Strad

ihai
Trai

17 gul 13 SEPTEMBRIE Strada 32 23 2 Panait Cerna 17

ada

Strada
Doors Hostel

1
a lt a Sabin 23
Strada Just

Strada
Str

l Se
Stra d a B
r va

-8
Dmbov

Hotel elor

-
iiei

b as
47
ia
l Ne

cu
Strada 11 n ie
a Muzelor

11-
Strada Alexandru Moru

2
arines

Bu l e v
Alexandru Vlah

tian
brie

Strad
ove Strada
rdu

S tr a

Hostel Str Strada Gramont

5-
z zi V

ah
ntin M i eti u
a te m

Strada Adria
t

R
a rd
n s Sep e orghieni
ada
Mr
oievod
7-47
leva

Strada Petre Linte

Co toran l

a Sa
u

l o 3 u
da O
Aleea

ea
n B 1 Strada Gh
ul T

47 S
Church o Mit
l a a u vard
Bu

Co

tr
buc rop

Stra
Cal
Alee Cale Bu l e
Strada Liveni

cotenent

m u il
d or S

da
l Tut

Co olit elia
limpu

ada
Vod
Apahid

Strada Lo Synagogue/Jewish centre

7-23-2

Stra
ul N
a

Mo
Vladi ge
lui

Strada Slobozia S tra d a Corn 27 terai

an
trada
oftu

nt a
mire

Pro
Strada Po
e or ifon

Vulca
23
Strada Gazelei

na
da C
scu

n
Museum Strada Vlaicu Vod

gre
ul G
erb
Stra

Str
47
a L og

rd Carol Parc

one
18

sul
S tr a
da
Strada

18 Cimitirul Ghencea

ada
ev a

ui
Monument

ti
ul
Verziori

da
Strada Anastasie Panu

ta
Strad

Stra
Strada Vlad Dracul

32 B
Calea

Anu
erbo
Bulevardul Dimitrie Cantemir

Stra
sca

R d
da

l 18

da
da G

rnea 23
Avalan

Tourist info a
Stra

iei
21
v a ci Str

e nce d a Do
ene

a
ei

Mih
r a No
Cuza Vod

ada
G t Timpuri Noi

Stra
Cinema S National
Strada Fo

ai
ul Io
t r a ti

a rd Strad

da
v i
ral C

ule r Technical 1 r

l Se
nM

BTheatre Cimitirul ritu rilo

in I s

Museum

bas

Moo
andia

47 hib
iorului

Stra

c
Eroilor Turci da heorghe incai d a Mo ian
no

t an t

eC

tian
Opera/Philharmonic Vl Nou d levardul G tS ra Octav
rava
inulescu

Frigului Strada Lnriei

o ns

ica Bu

n
cel
C

e umb Strada
Pope

19 Hospital da D 3 32 a br r 1 ada 19
aF Str
scu

Stra s 82 d cto Arenele iorele

Str
Strada
os

P e aV

tiaeria
Bus station mo v ei Stra Do Romane Strad
d
tre Ispi

ada
Tineretului
da

Strada

din
Fru
ea u

resc aho TINERETULUI

ba
Lespe u

ului
zi t R
Br

ua An
Stra

Co
su
aV

Train station aF ea

ad
lea
M2 Strada Clugreni
1-1

Strad
iilo

Cal

ada
Stra

Str
r

aC
da N
S tr a d

Strad
Calea V

rgean

osea
a

1-2

Str
Post office a Miha aT tanciu
M1

M
Parcul Carol
c

8
Strada rea il Ilie Loc de joac nari . V. S
B

red

Stra
da C

7-47

5-4

od Strada Mo
/M

utu Strada V i
Docolin
u

lP
3

a ule restian
lor

St ra d nV
reti

24-44 Tram lineStrada Loc Joac Strada T

aru
itul

S o ld a Brn var a
na

rba
Al e e a

Strada
Cale
ova
p t

Strada 32
d ul
ia

at Com e
M1 El
S
B

Subway line/station a lui

aF
de A

ena i
a
l
aV

Va
n Ion Tine
7

Stra
ea
Intra

20 r t oru 20
ran

Stra
Parcul Tineretului
ere
ad
Ca

sile Coj
rad

Aba
rgin

Strada etul
t

5-4

ocaru
St

Str

da T
nta ui
1-7-

da D
dul
rea T

Strada Brc Stra

var
1-2

da

un
1
elia
Strada
ri 23

Doin Bule
11-2

A C D E F G H I J K L M N O

v
arcu

Romb a
5

1-1

BuluSiuzana
 G H Piata
I Strada Tokio J K L

Strada Le
Grigore Antipa Museum
Victoriei 1 46

Strada Londra
of Natural History tefan cel Mare M1

Strada Mexic

bedei
BUCHAREST CENTRE Palace

Strada Argentina
u de Hunedoara M1

Strada Louis Blanc

Piaa Victoriei 2 Bulevardul Ianc Capital Plaza

Strada
1 46

Polon
oseaua Nicolae Titulescu 1 46 M1 Str
Pasajul Victoria Starlight Suite ada

5
Poe
9 OpenStreetMap contributors. Strada Paul Grec eanu tM 9
Available under the Open Database License. Piaa Victoriei 1 um
ndrescu ule
Scale 1:16000
igore Alexa anu

Cal
Strada Gr Bar

ea
1 cm = 160 m bu
Storck

Vic
Strada Ghiocei

an

Strad a Cl o p
0 200 400 m

to
Museum Christina n Bogd

ota
Fierari

riei
sor Io Strada
Profe

rii V
M2 a

Strada Aure
l
Strad

ech
i
Crciun i
ioare

Stra
Strada a Fec Strada
Vlaicu
Bul
e Strad Rsp

da P
n

ntii
l
var lor
Marshal Garden
n Io

Strada Doctor Iacob

over
to p o
dul
evas

nei
Cli
Strad

42 4 L as
a

da S l

Felix
5 46 cr
Stra
rou

Bule C rei in Danie rilor

Minerva a
Tuna

vard ata ii o a stant Strada Slvet

i Strada Justinian

ti
ri

da E

rg Dog

Strada
ul
a

Alex a nu iu Strada V Central Con

a
Stra

Art ada

Strada
ndr u he M

Buze
Ioan Cuza
Strad

eorg Police Str

a
Collection r al Gh
oas ne Station

Leonid
Museum Ge nu

Strad
da Frum da rotea
Stra

Calea Dorobanilor
Stra nest B
l Er

a Varn
Stanislav Cihoschi
era

ali
10 en
u M1 Strada G a10
Poliz aL eonid
orghe Strad
a Ghe George olae Iorga

Strada Cderea Bastilie

i
Strad Strad
a a Nic Strada
5

Nic
arion
ta

Occid Enescu Strad escu

entul
ui ai Emin ilippide

olae
Museum

a Vis
Mih xandru Ph

Strada
Strada Sfinii Duke Strada Strada Ale
Parcul Nicolae Iorga

Voi
Iorga
Strad

5 46
Strad a

zi

voz
i
A

Strada Drobe

Vo i e vo Parcul l ec
Sfinii uR
Strada a uss

24 42 4
Henri Coand
Strada Mihail Mox Piaa Sheraton Bulevardul Dacia o

Bulev
Roman
Calea Doroba

Le Boutique Hotel

ardu
ni

Moxa acia Parcul Intrarea Urali

lG
lor

ul D Ion I.C Tndric

C alea Griviei v ard Parcul
zei Puppet Theatre

u
Bule Golden Tulip Brtianu

enera
Strada Semic
erc Am Piaa Roman (M2) Ion Voicu
ca

ri
Victoria Bucharest

ade
u lu e Strad
i l Ghe

Cale
Bis Yeshoah Roie

a
a Gen

ia H
Luncani a era brava

Iu l
area St r a d Tova l Er
Intr a a Dum

Vict
orghe

em
V l a icu

ad Midland Synagogue ia G Strad

Str

orie
i
Villa Barrio r igo
urel

11 rescu 11
M a gh

liei Calea Griviei mzei

Piaa A
eru

am e

Str
Strada A

a
da C

d
nei

Stra aG
Nottara L. Sturdza Bulandra Theatre
Strada
coa

ene Ion Creang Theatre

Str
ral C
Theatre I

ad
Stra
raiu sc u lui mzei da

24
d
nu
Vulcne ons
aG a Ho Piaa A Grdina S tra
Alexa

ircea

aP
tan Strada
ri Amzei

a Ba
tin
n dr

Strad
id Strada M Icoanei

icto
B

r
u

ra d
uD

eN
Military Museum

di
The St Mercure Schitul Darvari
on i

ord Icon

tea
ci

odo
Strada Pitar Mo

nu
r Am
ana an esc u Strada Pictor
Arthur Verona Church of the Resurrection Church
a Cri e En
Strad Luigi Cazzavillan Act Theatre eorg
iei elot Boutique Hotel Monaco
Strada

lvan s Berth da G
Stra

Strad
Tr ansi athia
iM Berthelot
Strada N i c ola

Strada enr

a Lui
St. Joseph's
Dionisie

44 ana al H
e Go

i er

gi C
16

Cathedral

Strad
Strad a Tem G en Athenee Palace Scala
Lupu
5

lescu

ada

azzav

a Po
Str Hilton Bucharest Hotel Bucuresti
cr s

Strada L

illan
Radisson Atheneum

pa Ta
Strad
M2

Park Inn

tu
etti
Cal

Strada Ge
ile La

nera Blu Piaa George Enescu Strada coal e i

uteran

. Ros
Strada Jean Louis

as Masaryk
ea

l Henri by Radisson

a Spir
Mathias a C. A S trada Thom
a Vas

12 iliu Berthel Vic

t Theodor Aman Strad 12
Virg ot The Funky
ori

u Har
da
ei
Strad

et
Museum
St

Stra
Calderon

Chicken Lutheran Church

rad
aI
Lascr

on

National Art Italian

L

Strada tirbei Vod

e

Strada Nico
i l

uca
s

a nu

Museum Church
a

Strada tirbei Vod

V

Ca
r

ot e

El Greco ag
S t rad

B iale
ad a
lae Filipesc
Strada

Str
u

St. Stephen's Church

a Arm

i
Sala Palatului ite Tempo
Bu

Lacul Lebedelor Bat

and C

Strada O
 Piata Revolutiei ada

uleva
St r

Oetari

Stra
24-4
4
linescu

da
Strada Ital

rdul N
ian

Ion
Stra Str a d a Italian
da G
National

Strad
Bre
rigo

a
re C

icolae
o ia
oblc nu Creulescu Church Operetta

S t r a da
cr
escu Lacul Cimigiu Theatre "Ion ii
ge

Berze
Strada

Blce

Osta
S

r
ile Las
a

Bule
Dacian"

Tu

i 2
Stra
ad

cu
nei

ilor
da d or St r

Strad
Ion a Vas

Gerot
C Argh
Grand Hotel
pera
d

vardu

4-44
gh e La z
Trianon m
p i n eanu InterContinental e zi a

a Dia

lS
13 Continental
Str 13
da S

Parcul

rie D.

heor
nei
Calea Plevnei
Novotel Bucharest City Centre
Stra

St. Nicholas

aG
Cimigiu

chitu
Epoque ol I

Dimit

ad
Siqua In-One-Day National Theatre dul Car

a
Opera

Str
ei Millo Bulevar
Romanian Mat Church

Mgu
S tr a da

Strad
Strada Sf atei
National ntul Cons Caim

rean
tantin Odeon Theatre ada

Strad
u
Strad

Cale rol I Str

Opera (ONB) a Ple rdul Ca
1

a Vas
vnei
Ramada Majestic Buleva
a R ad
62

ne
51

Universitate Universitate ilor

u Cr

cau

ile P
aS Sfin

r
K+K Elisabeta d da
istian

Stra Stra

Calea V

van
Cercul Capitol

Strada Ion Brezoia n u

Sutu Palace / Museum of Bucharest
ilor

Venezia

Strada Academiei
Militar
Mo

ictoriei
Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta Cismigiu Armonia
Z Executive Boutique Hotel Coltea Hospital
Calea

Bulevardul Mihail Koglniceanu Doamnei Church Colea Church

Bul
e

ei

Ca
v

le
ol

aP Central a rd
aC

lev ul
Cinema Pro d
Hri

Splaiul Independ
enei nei Strada Eforiei Str a
sto

National Bank
Bot

M1/M3 of Romania St. Nicholas Students' Church

M2
ev

14 S tracu Vod 14
Strada P
Splaiu
l Inde Strada Lipscani Pasajul Villacrosse Pura Vida trada Doam nei
pen Sky Bar & i
Strada Bnie
den Holocaust Memorial
S tr a

Izvor ei Strad Hostel St. Nicholas Church

a i Vod
a Lip
s Sfntul Gheorghe
da R

Strada Mih cani

ad

Strada Blnari New St. George's Church

uC

Zlatari Church Rembrandt

alo

5 16 21 mfi
Parcul Izvor CEC res
Stavropoleos Church cu
National

etriceicu-Hadeu
Bulevardul I

History
Museum Comedy Tania- Strada
National
Strada Smrdan

Mihai Vod Gab Baratiei Church

on Const

Theatre
Strad

Dm
Monastery Savings Frankfurt rove
ni X Hostel

bo

Stra d a
a B

V
Bank

via
lce

igile St. Dumitru Church Stra

ti

Strada Bogdan P
da Choral Temple

ne
i
Cov
lari
Str

Strada ac i
e
ad

lhi Io
antin Brtianu

n C. Filit
aB

ti Stra Old Court Palace & Church

d Cocor

M1
Bulevardul Naiun a Fr
Ibis Palatul ilor Unite r
i ei
Strada

ance

/M
z

New De
Parlamentului The Great Polish Synagogue
a Apostles'
15 Pi a Splaiul Independene
i
& Holocaust Museum 15
Parliament Church Europa Royale Bucharest New St. John's Church
vor
Stra
da

da Iz ori 14 40 56
Stra nt
Sfn

da V
t

Strada Hale
St r a lor
a Vi
ne
r

Str
ad
Justice Palace Domnia Balaa Piaa Unirii Unirea i

a
Parc Strada Church Piaa Shopping Jewish History Museum
Pa

A po
latul Ju
Centre

lod
stiiei Unirii 1

or
National Museum of Piaa od
i Apo uV

Bulevardul Libertii
Contemporary Art Strad a S fini sto li Unirii egr
Piaa Unirii 2 aN
St r ad
M1/
Pasajul Unirii

Casa Poporului
M3

Bulevardul Unirii

a C o n s t i t u i ei
M2

Pia
Bulevardul Unirii
Strada Mitropolitul Antim
Ivireanu
Strada Sfn
tul
I

Cathedral of the Nation 7

lie

16 Antim Monastery 2-4 Piaa Unirii 16

(Under Construction) ei
u 7-3 poli Horoscop
esc 7-2 M itro Splaiul Un
org ria lul Piaa Bibescu Strada irii
Ge

Strada

Ma Dea B ibe
ge na ada sc
eor Str uV
Justi

aG lR egi od
iei

Calea 13 Septembrie ad rdu

Str Strada Radu Vod

Bu leva
G H I J Patriarchal Palace & Church K L
Strada 11 I unie

Strada Ion Creang

 Street register
Aleea Alexandru H-7/8
B-dul AI Cuza E-9
B-dul Banu Manta E-9
B-dul Carol I K/N-13
B-dul Constantin Prezan H-5
B-dul Coposu K/M-15
B-dul Dacia H-11
B-dul Dinicu Golescu D-10
B-dul Eroii Sanitari D-14
B-dul Eroilor D-14/15
B-dul Expoziiei B/E-3
B-dul Geniului B-14
B-dul Gheorghe Duca F-9/10
B-dul Gh. Magheru J-10/12
B-dul Hristo Botev L-13/15
B-dul Iancu de Hunedoara Str. Bruxelles J-7/8
H/J-9
B-dul IC Brtianu K-13/15
B-dul Ion Mihalache A/C-4
B-dul Iuliu Maniu A/C-14
B-dul Lacul Tei L/N-7
B-dul Lascr Catargiu H-9
B-dul Libertii I-14/17
B-dul Mreti J-18 Str. Caimatei L-13
B-dul M. Koglniceanu G-14
B-dul Mircea Eliade H-4
B-dul Mircea Vod M-14/18
B-dul Naiunilor Unite G/J-15
B-dul N. Blcescu K-12/13
B-dul Octavian Goga M/O-17
B-dul Poligrafiei C/E-1
B-dul Primverii H-5
B-dul R. Elisabeta H/K-14
B-dul Regina Maria I-17
B-dul S. Mgureanu H-12/13
B-dul Timioara A/C-15
B-dul Unirii I/O-16
B-dul Vasile Milea B-12/16
Calea 13 Septembrie B/D-18
Calea Clrailor M/O-14
Calea Crngai A-8/9
Calea Dorobanilor H-5/6
Calea Floreasca K-1/9
Calea Victoriei H-9/10
Intrarea Teodor Iliescu J-7
Intrarea Tudor tefan J-7
Piaa Amzei I-11
Piaa C. A. Rosetti L-13
Piaa Charles de Gaulle H-5
Piaa Constituiei I-15/16
Piaa Dorobani I-7
Piaa Libertii J-18
Piaa Montreal E-3
Piaa Obor O-10
Piaa Presei Libere E-1/2
Piaa Roman J-10
Piaa Unirii K-15/16
Piaa Universitii K-13
Piaa Victoriei G-9
os. Cotroceni C/E-13
os. Nicolae Titulescu D/H-9
os. Nordului H-1/2
os. tefan cel Mare J/O-9
Str. 11 Iunie J-16/18
Str. 9 Mai A-8
Str. Academiei J-12/13
Str. Ady Endre F-7
Str. Al. Constantinescu D/F-5
Str. Am. Vasile Urseanu I-10
Str. Ana Davila C/E-14
Str. Anastase Simu J-12
Str. Andrei Popovici J-6
Str. Anghel Saligny I-14
Str. Anton Pann M-15
Str. Arh. Ion Mincu F/H-7
Str. Aripilor K-1
Str. Aristide Demetriade J-13
Str. A. Clinescu L-12/13
Str. Armeneasc L-13
Str. Arthur Verona J-11
Str. Atena H-8
Str. Athanasie Enescu B-5/6
Str. Bcani K-14
Str. B. Prclabul F-11/12
Str. Banat D-10
Str. Bniei K-14
Str. Banul Antonache K-6/7
82 Bucharest In Your Pocket
Str. Briei K-15 Str. Elizeu D-10
Str. Barbu Delavrancea F-6 Str. E. Porumbaru G-5/7
Str. Barbu Vcrescu K-1/2/9 Str. Emil Pangrati H-5/6
Str. Batitei K-13 Str. Episcopiei J-12
Str. Belgrad I-8 Str. Eremia Grigorescu K-11
Str. Benjamin Franklin J-12 Str. Ernest Broteanu J-10
Str. Berna I-8 Str. Eugen Carada J-14
Str. Bibescu Vod K-16 Str. Eugen Lovinescu D-9
Str. Biruinei A-3/4 Str. Finlanda J-8/9
Str. Biserica Amzei I-11 Str. Francez J-15
Str. Biserica Doamnei J-14 Str. Frederic Chopin L-4/7
Str. Biserica Enei J-13 Str. Frumoas G-10
Str. Blnari K-14 Str. Gabroveni K-14/15
Str. Blanduziei K-12 Str. George Bariiu D-8/9
Str. Brazilia J-7/9 Str. George Clinescu J-6
Str. George Enescu I-12
Str. Bucegi A-3 Str. George I.- Gion M-14/15
Str. Bucur L-17 Str. Georges Bizet K-5
Str. Buzeti G-9/11 Str. G. Clemenceau J-11/12
Str. C. A. Rosetti J/L-12 Str. Gh. Brtianu G-6/7
Str. C.C. Arion F-9/10 Str. Gheorghe Manu H-10
Str. Cderea Bastiliei J-9/10 Str. Giacomo Puccini K-5/6
Str. Caierului K-2 Str. Gina Patrichi H-10
Str. Giuseppe Verdi L-4/5 Str. Porumbacu A-8
Str. Calafat L-6 Str. Glodeni M-4
Str. Cldrari K-15 Str. Gr. Alexandrescu H/J-9
Str. Cldruani F-8 Str. Hans Ch. Andersen K-16 Str. Principatele Unite J-17
Str. Caloteti M-14 Str. Hanul cu Tei K-14
Str. Cameliei F-11 Str. Henri Berthelot G/I-12
Str. C. Popescu J-18/20 Str. Herstru H-4/5
Str. Cntarului D-8 Str. Iacob Negruzzi E-10
Str. Cplna K-1 Str. Ialomicioarei D-9
Str. C. P. de Szathmary F-8 Str. Iani Buzoiani C-6/7
Str. Cain A-4 Str. Icoanei L-11
Str. Cuzai M-15 Str. I. Medico-Militar E-10/11
Str. Chile J-8 Str. Ion Brezoianu I-13
Str. Chindia I-17 Str. Ion C. Filitti J-15
Str. Chicani C-8 Str. Ion Cmpineanu I/K-13
Str. Christian Tell I-10/11 Str. Ion Ghica K-14
Str. Ciprian Porumbescu I-9 Str. I.L. Caragiale L-11/12
Str. Cisndie A-4 Str. Ion Nistor K-14
Str. Clucerului F-5/7 Str. Ion Roat L-18
Str. Colei K-14 Str. Ion Sltineanu J-9
Str. Comnia M-10 Str. Italian L-13
Str. Concordiei K-17/18 Str. Iulia Hadeu G-11
Str. Condeiului I-1 Str. Iulian tefan E-8
Str. Constantin Mille J-13 Str. Izvor F-16
Str. Costache Negri F-14/15 Str. J. L. Calderon K-11/12
Str. Covaci K-15 Str. J. S. Bach K-5/7
Str. Criana G-11/12 Str. Johann Strauss K-5
Str. Cristian Tell I-11 Str. Jules Michelet J-11
Str. Cristofor Columb K-11 Str. Justinian K-10
Str. Cronicarilor J-7/8 Str. Justiiei I-16/17
Str. Cucuzel Ion K-18 Str. Larisa A-10
Str. Culceru Udricani L-15 Str. Latin M-12/13
Str. Culmea Veche M-14 Str. Lipscani I/L-14
Str. Cuitul de Argint I-19/20 Str. Londra I-7/9
Str. Cuza Vod L-17/19 Str. Lotru B-4/5 Str. elari K-14/15
Str. Dante Alighieri I-3/4 Str. Louis Blanc H-8/9
Str. David Emmanuel J-9 Str. Luteran I-12
Str. David Praporgescu K-12 Str. Macedoniei F-12
Str. D. Ion Dobrescu J-12 Str. Madrid J-8
Str. Dianei L-13 Str. Maica Domnului N-6/7
Str. D. Bolintineanu L-13/14 Str. Maior Sntescu D/F-5
Str. D. Brandza D-12/13 Str. Mmulari L-15
Str. Dimitrie Racovi M-13 Str. Mntuleasa M-13/14
Str. Dinu Lippati K-6 Str. Mrgritarelor M-10
Str. Dinu Vintil L-7/9 Str. Maria Rosetti L-12
Str. Diochei A-7 Str. Maria Tnase L-19
Str. Dionisie Lupu K-11/12 Str. Matei Basarab M/O-15
Str. D. Mendeleev J-10/11 Str. Matei Millo J-13
Str. Doamnei J-14 Str. Maxim Gorki I-5
Str. Docenilor F-6 Str. Maximilian Popper N-16
Str. Domnia Anastasia I-14 Str. Mihai Eminescu K/N-10
Str. Dr. Barasch Iuliu L-15 Str. Mihai Vod I-14
Str. Dr. Burghelea N-13/14 Str. Mihail Moxa H-10
Str. Dr. Carol Davila D-13/14 Str. M. Vulcnescu E/G-12
Str. Dr. Grigore Mora H-5/7 Str. Monetriei G-8
Str. Dr. Ion Cantacuzino G-6 Str. Moraru Octavian I-6
Str. Dr. Jean Clunet E-14 Str. Muzeul Zambaccian H-7
Str. Dr. Louis Pasteur E-14 Str. Nicolae Beldiceanu J-10
Str. Dr. Paleologu M-13/14 Str. Nicolae Caramfil I-1/3
Str. Duiliu Zamfirescu H-8/9 Str. Nicolae Golescu J-11/12
Str. Dumbrava Roie K-11 Str. Nicolae Iorga I-10
Str. Ecaterina Varga B-10 Str. Nicolae Tonitza J-15
Str. Edgar Quinet J-13 Str. Occidentului G-10
Str. Eforiei J-14 Str. Oslo I-8/9
Str. Panait Istrati C-6/7
Str. Paris H-8/9
Str. Patriarhiei J-16/17
Str. Patriei K-15
Str. Petre Creu D-5
Str. Petre Ispirescu B/D-19
Str. Petru Maior D-8
Str. Petru Rare E-9/10
Str. Piaa Amzei I-11
Str. Pictor A. Verona J/L-11
Str. Pictor C. Stahi H-12
Str. Pictor . Luchian M-13
Str. Pictor T. Aman H-11
Str. Piotr Ilici Ceaikovski K-5
Str. Pitar Mo K-11/12
Str. Plantelor M/O-13
Str. Pleoianu Elena D-6
Str. Plutonier Ion Topor B-11
Str. Poenari L-20
Str. Poiana Florilor I-17
Str. Polon K-9/11
Str. Popa Savu H-5/7
Str. Popa Soare M-14
Str. Povernei I-9/10
Str. Praga I-7/8
Str. Puul lui Zamfir J-6/7
Str. Rabat H-7
Str. Radu Beller I-7
Str. Radu Vod K-16
Str. Rducanu Grigore F-8
Str. Rdulescu Drumea K-18
Str. Ramuri Tei L-6
Str. Rspntiilor L-9/10 Str. Tuberozelor G-7
Str. Rsuri M-10
Str. Roma I-7/8
Str. Romexpo C/E-2
Str. Romulus M-14
Str. Rosenthal H-5
Str. Rossini Gioacchino L-7
Str. Rotaului B-6
Str. Rucr A-4/5
Str. Ruginoasa L-19
Str. S. V. Rahmaninov K-6
Str. Sabinelor F/H-17
Str. Scele A-3
Str. Sgeii L-13
Str. Sala Palatului I-12/13
Str. Salcmilor M-11
Str. Samuil Micu Clain D-8
Str. Sapienei I-15
Str. Sarmizegetusa L-14
Str. Sceni A-10
Str. Scrltescu F-8/9
Str. Scaune L-13/14
Str. Schitu Drvari L-11/12
Str. Vasile Prvan G-13/14
Str. elimbr K-14
Str. epcari K-15
Str. erban Petrescu I-5/6
Str. Sevastopol G-10
Str. Sfnta Maria D-7
Str. Sfnta Vineri K/M-15
Str. Sfntu Dumitru J-15
Str. Sfntul Anton K-15
Str. Sfntul Constantin G-13
Str. Sfntul Elefterie E-14
Str. Sfntul Gheorghe K-14
Str. Sfntul Ilie J-16
Str. Sfntul Spiridon L-12
Str. Sfinii Apostoli I/K-15
Str. Sfinii Voievozi G-11
Str. Sfinilor L-13/14
Str. Smrdan K-14/15
Str. oimretilor D-8/9
Str. Someului C-6
Str. Sptarului M-12/13
Str. Speranei L-12/13
Str. Stanislav Cihoschi J-9/10
Str. Stavropoleos J-14
Str. tefan Burcu G-6
Str. tefan Greceanu K-9
Str. tefan Ludwig Roth B-5
Str. tefan Marinescu B-11/12
Str. tefan Negulescu J-7
Str. tefan Protopopescu J-6
bucharest.inyourpocket.com
Str. Stelea Sptarul L-14/15
Str. Sterian Margareta L-10/11
Str. tirbei Vod F-13
Str. Stockholm J-8
Str. Stoica Ludescu D-8/9
Str. Stolnicului F-6
Str. Strehaia M-15
Str. Sutaului B-6
Str. Tbcarilor L-17/18
Str. Tache Ionescu J-11
Str. rmului J-3
Str. Trnava B-3/4
Str. Truanu F-10
Str. Teheran I-5/6
Str. Temiana G-12
Str. Teodor tefnescu L-14
Str. Teodosie Rudeanu E-8/9
Str. Theodor Burada G-13
Str. Theodor Buzoiu K-4
Str. Thomas Masaryk L-12
Str. Timotei Cipariu D-9
Str. intaului B-6
Str. intea J-2
Str. Tipografilor D-1
Str. Tirana H-8
Str. Tismana I-17
Str. Toamnei M-11/12
Str. Tohani L-19/20
Str. Tokio I-9
Str. Toma Caragiu K-14
Str. Traian Vasile B-3
Str. Traian Vuia K-12/13
Str. Transilvaniei G-12
Str. Trotuului C-6
Str. Tudor Arghezi K-12/13
Str. Tudor Vianu J-7/8
Str. Tunari L-9/10
Str. Tunului L-18
Str. Turbinei K-7/8
Str. Turda D-7/8
Str. Turnul Chindiei C-6/7
Str. Turnul Eiffel L-6/7
Str. Uruguay G-5/6
Str. Valea Merilor E-8/9
Str. Valerian Prescurea K-18
Str. Vntori I-15
Str. Vnju Mare A-4
Str. Varnia A-7
Str. Varovia I-8
Str. Vasile Adamache L-15
Str. Vasile Alecsandri I-9/10
Str. Vasile Burl A-10
Str. Vasile Conta K-12
Str. Vasile Gherghel C-7
Str. Vasile Lascr L-12/13
Str. Vasile Mironiuc F-7/8
Str. Veronica Micle F-9
Str. Verziori L-17/19
Str. Vespasian E-10/11
Str. Victor Hugo I-5
Str. Viesparilor M-9/10
Str. Vigilenei I-15
Str. Viioarei I-10
Str. Virgiliu F-12/13
Str. Visarion J-10
Str. Walter Mrcineanu I-13
Str. Washington I-8
Str. Witting E-11/12
Str. W. A. Mozart L-4/7
Str. Xenofon I-18
Str. Zalic A-10
Drive more to experience more of Romania.
Rent 3 days from Hertz and you get one extra day free !*

Use this promo code DRIVEHERTZ when you book the offer on www.hertz.ro

If you want to book more days or need more info about the offer,
please feel free to contact us:

Email: reservations@hertz.ro
Phone: +40 21 204 12 78
+40 21 407 82 00
www.hertz.ro

*The offer is available only for group cars A, B, C , D, G. The promo code can be used only
once by a Customer. The offer is available for these periods: 17th of April - 30th of June 2017
and 1st of September 2017 31st of March 2018.
See more details on www.hertz.ro