PAKISTANS TEXTILE

INDUSTRY
ECONOMIES OF PAKISTAN

SUBMITTED TO: FAHAD M. ALI

SUBMITTED BY:
CAMILLA BLE DEAN 1311256
FARHEEN ASIM 1311257
FARYAL SHUJA GHAZALI 1311219
INDAR VALASAI 1311265
SUNDILA SADIQ 1311281
Table of Contents
Introduction.................................................................................................................... 3
Textile Industrys Economic Contribution............................................................................... 3
Textile Exports Vision 2020................................................................................................ 3
Growth Trend................................................................................................................. 5
Growth of Textile Sector 2008-2009..................................................................................... 6
Performance 2008-09........................................................................................................ 7
SWOT for Textile Industry in Pakistan.................................................................................. 9
Dynamics of Textile Industry.............................................................................................. 9
Textile Process.............................................................................................................. 11
Ginning....................................................................................................................... 12
Objectives................................................................................................................ 12
Demand................................................................................................................... 14
Supply..................................................................................................................... 15
Recent Developments.................................................................................................. 15
Future Developments................................................................................................... 15
Weaving Sector............................................................................................................. 17
Performance of Pakistan Textile Industry Spinning.................................................................18
Weaving................................................................................................................... 19
Composite................................................................................................................ 19
Export Performance of Textile Industry................................................................................ 19
Major players of the textile industry of Pakistan.....................................................................20
Established Capacity/ Capacity Utilization of Textile Industry...................................................22
Contribution to Exports................................................................................................... 23
Contribution to GDP and Employment................................................................................ 23
Competition with the neighboring countries..........................................................................23
Rise in Fabric Exports Manufacturing in Pakistan...................................................................24
Decline in Textile industry growth...................................................................................... 27
Inflation...................................................................................................................... 29
Zardaris period............................................................................................................. 30
Shareefs Period............................................................................................................ 30

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Expansion.................................................................................................................... 32
Pakistan Yarn Prices: Domestic and Export Markets................................................................33
Conclusion................................................................................................................... 35
References................................................................................................................... 36

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Introduction
Pakistans textile industry is a major contributor to the national economy in terms of exports and
employment. Pakistan holds the distinction of being the worlds 4th largest producer of cotton as
well as the 3rd largest consumer in the world.

Textile sector is considered as the backbone of the economy. On the other hand, it is facing tough
competition in the international market due to increase in cost of production, which is making it
less competitive than the neighboring countries India, Bangladesh & China.

According to Pakistan Textile Journal, Pakistan is among top 10 textile exporters of the world.
Textile export of world over is about $400 billion out of which China tops the list with present
export of $55 billion, followed by Hong Kong $38 billion, Korea $35 billion, Taiwan $16 billion
and Indonesia, India, Bangladesh and Pakistan $11billion each.

During FY 2010-2011 textile exports of Pakistan have continued to grow in the first nine months.
According to the Federal Bureau of Statistics (FBS) and the Trade Development Authority of
Pakistan TDAP, textile exports grew by 30.38% from July 2010 to March 2011. It showed a
positive sign in the constant dwindling textile industry of Pakistan and Exports during July-June
(2012-13) were recorded at $24.518 billion against the exports of $23.624 billion recorded
during July-June (2011-12), showing positive growth of 3.78 percent.; however this increase can
be attributed to the rise in the price of cotton and other inputs along with a significant increase in
terms of quantity as well.

Textile Industrys Economic Contribution

Exports 60%
Manufacturing 46%
Employment 38%

Source: Economic Survey of Pakistan

Textile Exports Vision 2020

A newly elected Chairman of All Pakistan textile Mills Association (APTMA) Basin Cacique has

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announced to unveil vision APTMA 2020 under which the textile exports would be projected to
fetch $26 billion by year 2020 from present level of $13 billion. Yasin said despite fact that the
country's largest foreign exchange earning sector was facing several hardships; the textile
exporters were firm to combat all obstacles in their way. Though exporters are not getting any
relief/concessions from the government, they would continue to their efforts for not only the
survival of the export-oriented industry but strive for achieving new goals in the greater interest
of the country and its economic sovereignty. He pointed out besides many acute problems and
energy crises, the spinning industry was vying for enhanced production in cotton crop as the crop
remained stagnant for the last two to three years at 12 to 13 million bales. He said for this
purpose spinners would along with the government would re-visit the Monsanto option as well as
the effort to make the Pakistan Cotton Research Institute would be made more effective. He said
about frequent increases in taxes and levies and utilities' prices, the association would take up
these issues with the government and ask the power corridors to extend at least some breathing
space for the industry's survival.
Electricity rate in Pakistan is highest with 15 cents per unit while it costs 12 cents in India, 10
cents in Sri Lanka and 9 cents in Bangladesh while gas per MMBTU in Pakistan is $4.94, $4.20
in India and $2.05 is in Sri Lanka. Similarly markup rate in Pakistan is highest as compared to
other countries in the region with 10.50 percent and it is feared to increase further whereas it is
charged at 6.56 percent in China, 7.74 percent in Bangladesh and 7.75 percent in Sri Lanka. He
said APTMA would speed up its efforts for the Generalized System of Preferences Plus by the
European Union as Pakistan becomes eligible for the preferential tariff in January next year.

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Growth Trend
Pakistan's textile industry is going through one of the toughest periods in last 5 years.
The global recession which has hit the global textile really hard is not the only cause for concern.
Serious internal issues also affected
Pakistan's textile industry very badly. The high cost of production resulting from an instant rise
in the energy costs has been the primary cause of concern for the industry. Depreciation of
Pakistani rupee during last year has significantly raised the cost of imported inputs. Furthermore,
double digit inflation and energy crises have affected the overall textile sector.
Source: Economic Survey of Pakistan, by State Bank of Pakistan

YEARS GROWTH

2008-2009 -0.70 %

2009-2010 -1.78 %

2010-2011 1%

2011-2012 4.8 %

2012-2013 13.02 %

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Growth of Textile Sector 2008-2009
State Bank of Pakistan

Report by State Bank of Pakistan

This table shows the trend to textile sector. In starting textile growth is not more than 1.01 % the
in next year growth is badly affected by energy and other crises and growth will go in negative
number its done first time in Pakistan textile history. After that its move towards better side
gradually and in 2011-2012 over all textile growth become 5 % after some bad period. Now
according to state bank economic survey a textile growth rises at 13 %.

Benazir Bhuttos assassination followed by unstable law and order situations. Moving ahead in
2008 the textile sector showed record negative growth due to financial church in global economy
resulting in slowdown in economy growth chased by soaring oil, food and other commodity
prices, softening of external demand and turmoil in the international financial market. The
economy is also going through the most terrible energy crisis affecting the performance of the
textile industry.

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Performance 2008-09

According to data by Federal Bureau of Statistics, Textile exports during the first eight months of
current financial registered negative growth of 5.6% as against the exports recorded
corresponding period of the last financial year. Exports during July-February (2008-09) totaled $
6.47 billion against the exports of $6.85 billion recorded during July-February (2007-08).

During the time under review, the highest negative growth of 51.24 percent was recorded in the
exports of yarn (other than cotton yarn) while exports of art, silk and synthetic textile were
decreased by 23.45 percent.
Similarly, exports of cotton yarn declined by 15.28 percent, cotton (carded or combed) by 13.81
percent, knitwear by 2.66 percent, bed wear by 10.44 percent, tents, canvas and tarpaulin by
21.18 percent, ready-made garments by 12.43 percent, made up articles by 0.3 percent while
the exports of other textile materials declined by 15.28 percent during the period.
However, the exports of raw cotton witnessed increase of 154.5 percent during the time under
review while exports of cotton cloth increase by 5.57 percent and towels by 10.02 percent.

Domestic Overview

Internally the increase in cost of utilities, (Power, Gas, Transport, and Petrol) has impacted
viability. The power & gas outages have further deteriorated capacity utilization. The shortage of
cotton crop in China increased the prices of cotton. The increased demand of yarn export created
problem of yarn availability in the local market. The increase of cotton yarn and cotton yarn
prices for exporters of Garments, Knitwear, Home Textile and made-up sectors to unviable level
aggravated the production and export of yarn products. To stay in the market industry is making
distress efforts. Closure, low capacity utilization, losses are heated topics of the day. Resultantly
the production and export performance of Textile sector had shown a mixed trend. Because of a
global shortage in availability of cotton, largely due to a shortfall in Chinese crop, which is the
biggest producer and consumer of cotton in the world, the foreign demand for Pakistans cotton
yarn has risen exceptionally. Chinese, in particular, have procured huge quantities of yarn from

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Pakistan, even though they are the fiercest competitor of Pakistan in the world market. In the first
six months of the current fiscal year Jul-Dec. 2009, the export of cotton yarn recorded an
increase of 50%. Spinning industry makes the basic raw material for the downstream industry.
The existing capacity in the spinning sector is more than local demand, and hence moderate
quantities of yarn are exported each year. With excessive exports during the year, the
downstream industry started facing severe shortages of yarn. Consequently, the downstream
industry began to close down. In January, 2010Government imposed a quota of 50 million kg per
month for export of yarn. During January 2010, 56 million kg was exported as appropriate
measures to give effect to quota were not put in place in time. The availability of yarn in the
local market remained scant and prices kept rising. The anxiety and pain suffered by the local
industry intensified, as exports of value added textiles were declining at alarming rates (Decrease
in: Cloth 16%, knitwear 8% and garments 8%). Accordingly, the quota was reduced to 35 million
kg per month with effect from 1st March, 2010.Since the reduction in quota, local availability
has improved. Textiles are exported in the form of Yarn, Fabric, Readymade Garments, and Bed
Wear & Made Ups.

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SWOT for Textile Industry in Pakistan

Dynamics of Textile Industry

The growing size and dynamism of the multi-layered textile economy demonstrate the
astonishing strength that market lends to a society even in a challenging environment. The textile
tycoons, however, are not content as they believe that the sector potential has been compromised
because of limited access to regional markets.

Pakistan can emerge as the regional hub of summer fabrics if we can get access to Indian
market. We are technologically more advanced and have all that it takes to lead in the sector. Our
fine products have universal appeal. Women, particularly of South Asian origin, find it
irresistible, a leading textile miller boasts.

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More than anything else, businessmen blame trade barriers in the huge market next door and
poor handling of the issue by the countrys commercial diplomats for depriving the sector of the
opportunities in the Indian market.

The stakeholders project the consolidated size of the export and domestic market of the lawn
(cotton summer fabric for women wear) at a high Rs400 billion. The quality and price range is
said to be wide enough to cater to the demand of all income groups in the domestic market.

Well, I find Rs400 billion market size of lawn hard to digest. Last year an Islamabad-based
consulting firm estimated it to be Rs50 billion. I find this number more credible, a textile
trader in Karachi comments.

The reported consolidated sales of Nishat Mills in 2011 was Rs69 billion that dropped to Rs68
bn in 2012. Some 80 exhibitions of key brands have been planned in Karachi alone over the next
two months. Aggregate sales are estimated at over 10 million lawn suits in a season.

Textile is the biggest sector as it enjoys natural advantage in a cotton growing country. The
textile units in the country run in hundreds. Count in Gul Ahmed, Lakhani, Al Karam, Khadi,
Sana Safinaz, Orient etc. To me even Rs400 bn looks like a very conservative estimate, a textile
analyst told Dawn.

The businessmen, however, expect shrinkage in the market during the current season. I believe
the collective sales this year will be 10 to 15 per cent less than the last year. Expecting a slump in
the sales, key players entered the rings early with a bang to increase their share of the local
demand pie, Rafique Ibrahim of Orient explained more aggressive advertising campaign by
textile groups.

He attributed the current demand slump to three factors, fall in disposable income because of
static wages and high inflation, tendency of people to cut on spending because of uncertainty and
lower presence of women in markets because of law and order situation.

Some market sources hinted at a fall in the number of brand operators as they are being crowded
out of the market by big players.

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Expecting slower sales this year some parties have actually withdrawn. I do not want to name
names but if you insist the brand image is not there this year round.

The average price has increased marginally over the last year. At the higher end, the price of
lawn suit touches Rs. 22,000 mark whereas at the other extreme one can get a suit with little
synthetic mix for Rs400. The average price range that hit highest sale falls in the band of Rs.
1,000 to Rs. 2,500.

Some also see the increasing size of the women wear market indicative of their greater share in
family income. They believe that incremental demand particularly in high price category is
fuelled by growing population of career women.

The competition has driven producers towards innovations at all stages of the value chain. There
is growing trend among mill owners towards engaging designers and accessory providers,
branding, setting up of dedicated sale store chains, introducing technology-based marketing
options, research-based drive to enter regional markets and anything and everything else to
consolidate their market position.

The textile industry invested heavily in balancing, modernizing and restructuring over the last
decade. The investment equipped the sector to produce world-class, high-quality refined cotton
fabric. The global recession in the closing years of the 2000s, however, deprived them of the
opportunity to cash on their investment by scaling up exports to the West.

Textile Process

Ginning is the process in which picked cotton is cleaned and purified. The end product of
the ginning is used to make yarn.
Spinning is the process by which ginned cotton is spun into yarn. Yarn quality is
dependent on quality of cotton and spinning process.
Yarn is spun into Grey Cloth in the weaving process.
Grey cloth is printed and dyed through processing / finishing.
Fabrics are stitched into garments manufacturing process.

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Ginning
Cotton Ginning is the process of separating the cotton fibers from the cotton seeds. Perfect
ginning operation would be performed if the separation of fibers from seed was effected without
the slightest injury to either seeds or to the fiber. A cotton gin is a machine that quickly and easily
separates the cotton fibers from the seeds, a job previously done by hand. These seeds are either
used again to grow more cotton or, if badly damaged, are disposed of. It uses a combination of a
wire screen and small wire hooks to pull the cotton through the screen, while brushes
continuously remove the loose cotton lint to prevent jams. The term "gin" is an abbreviation for
engine, and means "machine".

The process of to separate the seeds from the cotton fiber is known as Ginning. And to separate
the seeds from the cotton fiber without any damage of fibers is known as Ideal Ginning.

Objectives
To make the fiber very free from the seed.
To be confident that the fibers do not contain seed.
To collect the fibers and seeds at a time in separate passage.
To grow quality fibers and to get fair price of the product.
To make the spinning process easier and effective.

Ginning may have some faults. These are:

Gin-cut fibers.
Crushed seed.
NEP formation.
Too much wastage.

The ginning industry is considered to be the backbone of the textile sector and plays a
significant role in the economy. Though Pakistan produces best quality cotton, but ginning
factories get poor quality and contaminated cotton due to poor transportation and storage
facilities and unskilled handling and harvesting.

Cotton ginning is a process of separating cotton seed from lint for further processing in textile
industries. Cotton ginning is the weakest link in the textile chain.

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In the ginning process, fiber normally constitutes 33%, seed 59% and trash 8% of the cotton
produced. This level of trash is high compared to other countries, causing a huge loss to
ginners.

The ginning industry is not working at its full potential, underlining the need for improvement.
Though it has a small share of 4.6% in the textile chain, it is the first step in value addition and
the entire chain depends on growth of this industry.

Ginners use obsolete technology, old machinery and untrained labor force, resulting in low
profitability and efficiency.

In the post-production stage, the industry does not have proper marketing skills to encourage
local and international consumers to be able to get a fair price. Absence of government support
price, high inflation and associated factors have an undesirable impact on fair returns.

Lack of application of standards and ginning practices as well as poor management also dog
the industry. Ginners, who have no role in the price-setting mechanism, face some major
problems in getting a fair price.

First, the government announces minimum price for cotton which ginners have to pay to the
farmers. But ginners are not guaranteed any minimum price when they sell their product to
textile mills or brokers.

Second, there is no assurance of discount on poor quality from the government and no
premium for high quality. Mostly, ginners are at the mercy of brokers to sell their product who
easily exploit the former.

According to government data, 75% of ginning factories are in Punjab and 22% in Sindh. The
total number of ginning units is around 1,221 with an installed capacity of 36 million bales of
cotton on a three-shift basis.

The ginning season runs for 100 to 120 days. A large ginning factory produces nearly 10,000
bales per season whereas a small one produces 5,000 bales.

Pakistans economic advancement and expansion of the textile sector depend on growth of the
ginning industry. In the last few years, some ginning units have stopped working because they

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could not meet international standards and no efforts have been made to address their
problems.

In order to utilize the idle capacity in ginneries, it is necessary to improve the condition of
cotton producers. A reduction in production cost and an increase in input support could help
the producers increase output, which would in turn bring about revival in the ginning sector.

For adopting modern technology, necessary steps must be taken to support ginneries in shifting
from old roller-type machines to saw-gin system. Owners of ginneries, who have got higher
education, are found to be more efficient compared to those who have less education. Hence,
the government and policymakers should start some training programs for efficiency
improvement.

Another major reason of low output of the ginning industry is the energy crisis. Alternative
energy sources like generators lead to a three-time rise in energy cost.

Demand
In FY 2013-14, cotton imports have shown fluctuations with slow imports in the first few months
because of higher import cost due to continuous appreciation in dollar value against rupee at that
time. Later, the recovering of rupee in its value as well as low stock of quality raw cotton in
domestic market led to a surge in the imports.

About 2.5 million cotton bales were expected to be imported by the end of 2013-14 from which
1.2 million cotton bales have already been imported from India, the second biggest cotton
producer, as it provides cotton bales at a cheaper prices, lower interest and higher quality. The
other countries Pakistan relies on for cotton imports are US, Argentine and Central Asia.

Supply
Low cotton production in FY2013-14 has resulted in not being able to meet the target of 14.1
million cotton bales. Also due to pricing and quality reasons, many farmers showed preference of
other crops to sow over cotton, which resulted in 2.5% less area cultivated for cotton compared
to previous year. This year the production stood at 12.8 million cotton bales, a decline of 9.2%
against the target, according to the Economic Survey of Pakistan 2013-14.

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The low production of cotton has led to an increase in the domestic price compared to the
international market. Hence more preference was given by the ginners to sell cotton bales in the
local market than to export. Despite these conditions, Pakistan has managed to export cotton yarn
worth $1.072 billion during the first half of FY2013-14, with a slight decline of 3% in its exports
compared to previous year, according to Business Recorder 2014.

Recent Developments
With the start of the year 2014, Pakistan became eligible for GSP Plus trade status with the EU6,
which is likely to have a positive impact on the industry with increasing higher textile export but
also increase in cotton imports to meet export demands. If the quality of the local cotton does not
show any improvement, local mills are likely to prefer imported cotton. Therefore it is of utmost
importance to reduce contamination and improve the storage infrastructure in this sector.

On the other hand the government has imposed a 5% custom duty on the import of cotton in
April 2014 after exemption of custom duty since 2009, as specified in Business Recorder. The
step was taken after high import of cotton yarn from India, which was hurting the local cotton
ginning industry severely. This may help the local ginners in the near future.

Future Developments
Many steps are being taken for performance improvement and growth of Cotton Ginning Sector
such as

Ministry of Textile Industry will organize training programs for cotton ginners in Multan.
Bahawalpur and Sukkur to equip them with better understanding and skills in producing
better quality of cotton, as current quality of cotton suffers immensely due to lack of
proper warehousing and storage facility and out dated technology.
Pakistan is likely to get maximum tariff concessions for its export oriented industry and
will extend non-discriminatory market access (NDMA) to India which will result in
increased trade between the two countries.
Pakistan Cotton Ginners Association (PCGA) plans to cooperate with several
multinational companies for importing good quality seeds and transfer of technology for
ginning industry. This will lead to increase in the production of cotton as local seed
suppliers in the country provide substandard and less germinated seed to farmers at high
rates, which has resulted in higher loss of production output.

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Weaving Sector

There are two different sub segments in weaving a) Mill segment (Integrated and Independent
Weaving Units), and b) Non mill segment (Power Loom Units). The mills segment captured
momentum in the late fifties with the announcement of First Five-year Textile Plan. At that time,
Pakistan Industrial Development Corporation was established with an objective of industrial
sector's development. As a consequence, by mid sixties, the number of textile units undertaking
bleaching, printing and processing reached to 180.

Most of these units were situated in Karachi and a small number in Punjab. However, in 1968,
due to sudden change in excise duty collection (from capacity to production), majority of the
mills closed their weaving section. This greatly diminished the prospects of weaving mill
segment in the country as the weaving capacity of Pakistan dropped down to an installed
capacity of only 8,000 looms in 2008-09 from 26,000 looms in 1978-79. As against the declining
trend in the mill segment, the power loom segment continued its growth pattern in terms of
capacity and production.

This was an outcome of joint catalysts in the form of market demand forces and favorable
government policies (exemption of excise duty). Today, non-mill segment dominates by making
a contribution of 89%. The major problems of this segment are poor technology, scarcity of
quality yarn and limited production from the organized institutional network. Although the
investment in this segment depicted a decline in import of textile weaving machines, the non-
mill segment achieved significant progress. This was mainly owing to the mills outsourcing their
weaving operations to unutilized idle capacities in non-mill segment instead of internal
expansions.

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Performance of Pakistan Textile Industry
Spinning

FY10 turned out to be tremendous year for Pakistan's spinning segment as China, the largest
producer of yarn, stopped production of 12 million spindles equivalent to Pakistan's total
installed capacity. This phenomenon, while improving the supply/demand equilibrium in the
world yarn market, provided an added export avenue to local spinners.

This led to a sizable increase in the turnover of the spinning segment. Most of the players
enjoyed healthy gross margins attributable to Pakistani rupee devaluation and better pricing of
their product locally as well as internationally. Pakistani spinning sector has been able to develop
a niche in high course count market. Moreover, better inventory management also supported the
margin as the cotton prices jumped up record high in the latter half of the year.

Additionally, reduction in lending rates also benefited the bottom-line of the debt holders.
However, going forward, these substantial gains may not sustain considering the relative stability
of domestic currency and increasing cost of production with reforms in the energy sector and tax
regime. Since the sector remains highly dependent on domestic supply of cotton due to
competitive pricing and ease of procurement, the recent floods have added to issues already
faced by the industry. These, coupled with a negative country perception owing to the precarious
security situation, all undermine the competitiveness of Pakistani textile products in the global
market.

Weaving
During FY10, despite a moderate increase in the turnover of the segment, the gross margins
remained stagnant due to significant rise in the input cost raw materials and energy which could
not be completely passed on to the customers due to global economic crisis. Moreover, Pakistani
cloth exports also dropped down by 10% in the review period. However, reduced financial cost
and improved other income helped the sector's bottom-line turn black.

Composite
The composite segment experienced a significant jump of ~25% in its top-line emanating from
higher product pricing and rupee dollar exchange rate parity. Among the composite segment's

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products, home textile component was the main export driver as against the readymade
garments, which dropped slightly.

Nevertheless, comparative increase in the cost of production could not help in translating the
same into gross margins. Interestingly, it was better pricing of yarn and improved volumetric sale
of the home textiles which helped the players in retaining their margins. Given the reduction in
the borrowing cost, most of the players posted better profitability hence improved net margins.

Export Performance of Textile Industry

With global growth outlook relatively better in FY10, Pakistan's export focused textile industry
(textile contributed 53% to total exports) recovered from the lows of FY09. While export growth
was sluggish in 1QFY10 (-11% Y-o-Y), sequential improvement in the same has been strong
with 2QFY10 exports up 12% Y-o-Y, 3QFY10 up 22% Y-o-Y and 4QFY10-to-date exports up
13% Y-o-Y. YTD, overall textile exports are up 7% Y-o-Y with ~5% growth in broad volumes.
Headline export numbers for most products in the textile chain have been positive with only
fabric and bed wear standing out as weak links. The biggest contributors to growth meanwhile
have been yarn (+26%), made-ups (+16%) & synthetics (+106%).

Major players of the textile industry of Pakistan

Fateh Textile Mills

Fateh Textile mills were established in 1952 and since then it is providing quality-oriented
services to its consumers across Pakistan. In 1961, this company quickly became a public limited
because of excessive growth and wide expansion of their business. This company is also listed
on Karachi stock exchange. Almost 60 million meters fabric is produces each year at Fateh
textile mills limited. Their main focus is to design material for export. They have expertise in
designing ready-made wears and bed sheets. It is most famous brand and first choice of lots of
customers in foreign markets.

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Chenab Limited

Chenab Textile limited is known as one of the leading industries in manufacturing and exporting
quality based fabrics and products in all over Pakistan. Chenab Limited was established in 1975
and since then it is working to provide best services to customers. It has covered whole market
domain and providing services of all kind like shipping products, dealing with retailers and
vertical integration with all the units to provide services. Per annum total amount of fabric that is
processed in Chenab Limited is greater than almost 70 million meter and this fabric is converted
to garments.

Gul Ahmed Textile Mills Limited

Gul Ahmed textile is one of the oldest and most famous brands in Pakistan and also lots of other
countries in the world. This name is one of the most iconic names in textile industries of
Pakistan. In 1953, they have stepped in to the field of clothes manufacturing. They have made
rapid progress and spread their business in less amount of time. Due to huge recognition and
rapid growth, this company was listed at Karachi stock exchange in 1970. Gul Ahmed has
successfully earned an amazing position in textile industry of the world.

Hussein Industries Limited

Since 1951, housein textile industries are working to provide amazing services in all over
Pakistan. They have put their maximum effort to expand their business and hence result in
becoming one of the most popular and fast growing textile industries in Pakistan. They have built
their trust among various valuable customers in all over the world because of their strong
leadership. They used to take all the necessary measure to ensure that quality based products will
be delivered to consumers. Success of any organization is directly proportional to the number of
satisfied customers. So main focus of Hussein textile industries limited is to provide best quality
of fabric to their consumers.

Kohinoor Mills Limited

In Pakistan, Kohinoor textile mill is one of the most profitable and progressive organizations
providing best quality of fabric and ready made in all over Pakistan. They have started working

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in 1987 as small business but eventually ended up being one of the most famous textile industries
in Pakistan. They are currently offering valuable services in their main areas of business that
includes dyeing, weaving and also power generation. They have earned great respect among
major players in field of textile. Now days, they have annual turnover of almost 7 billion rupees.
Also 1700 employees are currently working at Kohinoor mills. Their mission is to provide
quality based products so that they can end up earning and satisfied customer.

Nishat Mills Limited

Nishat mils limited were established in 1951 and since then it is working to provide best services
keeping the latest trends and demands of modern age in their mind. In Pakistan, Nishat mills are
one the mills which contains highly modern power generation facilities. They are currently
providing almost 120 million meter fabric per annum. Two main units are currently operating a t
Nishat mills one of them is working at stitching unit and other is working at power generation.
They also have very strong balance sheet and export business is the backbone of this industry
making easy for it to stay at top among other competitive textile industries.

Fazal Cloth Mills

Fazal clothing industry was established in 1966 and since then it is working to provide quality
oriented and best products to its consumers. Several branches of fazal cloth mills are currently
operating in all over the Pakistan. At Muzafargarh, in 1972, they have set up their first spinning
unit. This company is also listed at Lahore and Karachi stock exchange.

National silk and rayon mills limited

National silk and rayon mills limited is currently working in Pakistan as one of the most
successful and best services providing company. It was established in 1950 with the aim to
provide customer satisfaction.

Safa Textile Limited

Safa textile limited is very famous and leading brand in the production of jeans, currently it is
operating at Karachi Pakistan. For giving finishing touch to product they are using latest and

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modern machines. They have also specialties in providing best quality of knitted garments at
international level as well.

The Crescent Textile Mills Limited

The crescent textile mills limited Pakistan is operating to provide best quality of fabrics to their
valuable customers in all over the Pakistan. Their specialties are to provide bed wears with 100
%cotton, polyesters and other material related to that.

Established Capacity/ Capacity Utilization of Textile Industry

The textile industry of Pakistan has a total established spinning capacity of 1550 million kgs of
yarn, weaving capacity of 4368 million square meters of fabric and finishing capacity of 4000
million square meters. The industry has a production capacity of 670 million units of garments,
400 million units of knitwear and 53 million kgs of towels. The industry has a total of 1221 units
engaged in ginning and 442 units engaged in spinning. There are around 124 large units that
undertake weaving and 425 small units. There are around 20600 power looms in operation in the
industry. The industry also houses around 10large finishing units and 625 small units .Pakistan's
textile industry has about 50 large and 2500 small garment manufacturing units. Moreover, it
also houses around 600 knitwear-producing units and 400 towel-producing units .Contribution
to exports According to recent figures, the Pakistan textile industry contributes more than 60% to
the country's total exports, which amounts to around 5.2 billion US dollars. The industry
contributes around 46% to the total output produced in the country. In Asia, Pakistan is the 8th
largest exporter of textile products .Contribution to GDP and employment. The contribution of
this industry to the total GDP is 8.5%. It provides employment to 38% of the work force in the
country, which amounts to a figure of 15 million. However, the proportion of skilled labor is very
less as compared to that of unskilled labor. Organizations in the industry. All Pakistan Textile
Mills Association is the chief organization that determines the rules and regulations in the
Pakistan textile industry. Opportunities available. The world demand for textiles is rising at
around 2.5%, due to which there is a greater opportunity for rise in exports from Pakistan.

23 | P a g e
 Contribution to Exports

Contribution to exports According to recent figures, the Pakistan textile industry contributes
more than 60% to the country total exports, which amounts to around 5.2 billion US dollars. The
industry contributes around 46% to the total output produced in the country. In Asia, Pakistan is
the 8th largest exporter of textile products.

Contribution to GDP and Employment

Contribution to GDP and employment. The contribution of this industry to the total GDP is8.5%.
It provides employment to 38% of the work force in the country, which amounts to a figure of 15
million. However, the proportion of skilled labor is very less as compared to that of unskilled
labor

Competition with the neighboring countries

In the export of textile products, China and India are very close rivals and they are competing
with Pakistan's goods in all sections. However, the finished qualities of Pakistani products are
superior to these countries. Most probably the working environment is the worst for textile
processing units. The industrial consumers have to pay not only high electricity tariff but also
have to face disruptions and breakdown in supply and frequent voltage fluctuations. Since textile
industry particularly spinning and weaving units is deploying the latest technology it can neither
afford interruptions nor surges in voltage. Besides electricity they face the problem of water
supply and its quality. A large number of processing units have to buy water from tanker supplies
which is not only expensive but its quality is inconsistent up to the standard. Such water quality
adversely affects the quality of bleaching and dying. On top of this, the interruption in electricity
supply creates havocs. In addition the rising domestic costs (oil. Gas and power failure, inflation,
minimum wage rate, cotton price) and resultant product price has disturbed the normal
functioning of the textile industry. It is suggested that efforts should be made to save the existing
industrial sites from becoming in bad conditions. The environmental effects of pollution of
wastewater products are very serious. A wide range of chemicals are used by the textile industry
for dyeing and printing operations. And these include bleaching agents vat dyes, azo dyes,

24 | P a g e
sulphur dye, color pigment, which are manufactured by using formaldehydes, hydrochloric acid,
chromium salts, ammonia, caustic soda, and many other toxic chemicals. Such chemicals are
creating environmental pollution.

The textile industry in Pakistan has tremendous potential to grow provided its comparative
advantages are maintained. There is a widespread recognition that Pakistan's textile industry has
made its mark up particularly those textile industry operators who have been able to develop
their niche markets and continue to compete in international markets. There is a lot of scope for
textile industry to further grow as it improves its productivity and competitiveness.

Rise in Fabric Exports Manufacturing in Pakistan

In international market there sharp propaganda against the quality of the Pakistan textile
products. Pakistan faced the challenges of the high quality and the competition with the regional
countries. After the abolition of the textile quota from January 2005 Pakistan surprised the all
competitive countries to increase its global share of exports and get additional foreign exchange.
Pakistan also improve its quality of the textile products that's became the reason to earn extra
revenue.

According to The Nation's Money magazine (2005) after the abolition of the quota free world
trade on textile products the Pakistan textile sector earns 3.6$ billion through exporting textile
products, which show the 10% growth over the corresponding period of the last year. The
different textile experts having the opinion that the textile exports of the Pakistan is expected to
increase 5$ billion during the first six months after the abolition of the quota regime (January -
June 2005). The total export of the year 2004- 2005 is expected to increase 8.5$ billion.

In 11 months of year 2005 the textile industry of Pakistan earn 7.70$ billion worth of foreign
exchange earnings, which show the significantly increase in the foreign exchange earnings to
compare with the previous years. In May 2005 the textile exports of the Pakistan increase 830$
million as against 650$ million in April, it's show the pleasant trend in textile sector of Pakistan.

The Pakistani textile manufacturers are very optimistic in nature and want to increase the
international share, and they have target to increase the exports around 10$ billion US dollars.

25 | P a g e
The textile industry can achieve this target; if the industry is steadily increase its exports share in
the international market. The Pakistani textile manufacturers claim that the textile products such
as, yarn, fabrics, cloth and bed linen are the most competitive items in the world, the quality of
these products are very fine to compare with other world. These items have a major share in our
overall textile exports. They claim that the leading textile producers and the exporters of the
world like China, Germany, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka import these products from Pakistan and
convert them into high fashion items and export the world.

After few months of establishing the quota-free global trade of textile, the knitwear and
readymade garment sectors in Pakistan faced a pressure, but now these two segments of the
Pakistan textile industry also show improvement in manufacturing of the products. The other
segments of the Pakistan textile like yarn, bed linen, clothing, are doing well before and after the
new WTO regime. Since 1999 to 2005 a sizeable investment nearly 5$ billion to 6$ billion US
dollars are invested in Pakistan, which have pleasant effects on local textile industry.

There is huge investment in Pakistan textile industry; this investment developed the textile
sector. The investment in the textile sector is divided between different segments of the industry.
The spinning has made 46% of the total investment; the weaving sector has made 24%. Textile
processing has made 12%, made-up 8%, knitwear and garments 5%and 5% invest in the
synthetic textile sector. The textile industry of Pakistan is expected to receive investment more
than 6$ billion US dollars by the year 2010 and this investment will increase the capacity and the
quality of the products.

According Tariq Mahmood Acting chairman all Pakistan mills association The USA imposed
some restriction on Chinese textile products; this restriction is also beneficial for the Pakistan
textile exporters. The EU and USA gives the bulk of the textile orders to the Pakistan because the
Pakistan has the capacity to achieve the target on time. Presently the USA and Europe became
the major market of Pakistan textile products, and Pakistan generates large amount of the
revenue. .

Soon after launching the quota-free international trade under the rules of WTO, Chinese started
marketing their textile products vigorously in the USA, Europe and other major consumer
countries of the world and wants to capture the local market. This behavior of the china badly

26 | P a g e
damaged the local textile industry of the Europe and USA, and ultimately this became the reason
of the trade war between china and EU, USA so the EU and USA wants to impose some
restriction on textile products. For the last few days a tug of war started between china and USA
on the issues of the revaluation of the Yuan (Chinese currency), Dumping, terrifies and this war
between USA and China is beneficial for the Pakistan textile sector.

The Tsunami factor had also become the reason of the development of the Pakistani textile
industry, because Tsunami heavily damaged the textile industry of the Indonesia, India and
Bangladesh.

The re-location of the textile industry in EU and USA had also beneficial for the Pakistani textile
exporters, because they mostly fulfils there textile needs from Pakistan. They import the different
products from Pakistan and used it in her products. The textile industry of Pakistan had equipped
itself at the international standard after the abolition of the quota system and imports the
advanced textile machinery to improve the capacity and quality.

The textile sector invest more than 4$billion US dollars in last four to five years, investment on
the latest machinery, infrastructure, communication, expansion, manpower and designing. The
industry believes that this investment in industry will comfortably meet the up comings
challenges of the advanced world.

Cotton is the basic need of the textile industry, and Pakistan is the leading producer of the cotton
in the world. Pakistan producing the 12 to 14 million bales of the cotton annually. The
Government of Pakistan should take step to promote the research on cotton which increases the
production and the quality of the cotton; through research on cotton we can produce the disease
free cotton. After the abolition of the quota system the textile industry has believe to need the 16
million bales of cotton annually, the 14 million of bales produce locally and 2 million of bales
import from the other countries. If we focus on the research we can fulfils the need of textile
industry, and also export the other countries.

27 | P a g e
Decline in Textile industry growth

i) Increase in EFS (Export Finance Scheme)

The textile sector faced a decline in its growth due to severe energy crises specifically, value
added sector in the country felt the burden of 100 basis point increase in EFS rate from 8.5% to
9.5%, besides a rise in energy tariffs.

ii) Electricity and Gas Crisis

The lower availability of electricity was also a key constraint for the value-added textile sector.
According to State Banks quarterly report, unfortunately, due to circular debt local refineries
could not provide required Furnace Oil quantity to power generation companies. As a result,
import burden has increased significantly for Furnace Oil provision. The growth seen in Jul-Dec
FY10 period will be challenging to sustain in the remaining months of FY10 given the
inadequate energy balances in the country. For instance, the increase of 0.5 percent in gas
exploration during Jul-Nov FY10 period does not seem sufficient to fuel a quick recovery. It
must be noticed here that gas constitutes more than 50 percent of total energy consumption by
industries. Similarly, scanty power investments in recent years allowed only a small increase in
electricity generation capacity; which too often remains under-utilized due to water shortages or
insufficient provision of gas and/or furnace oil. For instance, as winter rains remained low in
FY10, the Hydra generation capability declined sharply in January 2010. Similarly, gas sales to
power sector also declined during H1-FY10. Consequently, the use of furnace oil (FO) for
thermal generation increased. The gas load shedding to textile industries for 1 day in a week
decreases the production of textile finished products due to dyeing process

iii) Increase in Yarn Prices

The cotton prices increase from 2000 to 6600 per 40 kg due to the export of yarn, the yarn export
will amount to 614 million kg (which represents 14% of textile exports in 10MFY10 vs. 11% in
10 MFY09) which increase the both export volume and local profit/margins. As a result of high
exports, domestic supply has also been short in FY10 leading to considerable run-up in domestic
yarn prices. Positive fall through of this has reflected in YTD margins for yarn producers (which
have remained steady despite 35% higher Y-o-Y cotton costs). The spillover of the same has

28 | P a g e
however been negative for the value added sector that purchases local yarn. The federal
government imposed 15% percent duty on all types of yarn export for the next 60 days to protect
the value added sector. The duty has reflected 47% M-o-M decline in May-10 yarn exports
which suggests the 12-mth heyday for yarn exporters may be nearing an end. Report on Textile
Industry of Pakistan 11

iv) Increase in Minimum Wage

Government increase minimum wage from Rs.6000 to Rs.7000 which increases the fixed cost of
the textile finished product. Because of this the prices of the textile product increases and in this
way the Pakistan textile products not compete with the neighboring countries prices. In result
ultimately many textile owners shut down their textile mills

v) Double freight for Punjab & Khyber Pakhtunkhwa textile mills

The Punjab and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa textile owners cannot compete with Sindh textile owners
because the dyes and other finishing material first transport to Punjab from Karachi port and the
finished textile product again transport to Karachi port for export purposes. Ultimately double
transport cost on the Punjab textile product which increase the price competition between Sindh
and Punjab exporters because of this Punjab & Khyber Pakhtunkhwa textile mills.

vi) Lack of transportation facilities

The railway system in Pakistan is in poor condition because of less availability of locomotive
engines, single track and corruption in railway due to this railway is not a good option to
transport the textile product container to Karachi. Last option to transport the container to
Karachi port is through trailer which required lot of time to transport from Punjab to Karachi and
is expensive than railway charges which increase the prices and shrink the profit margin of
textile mills owners.

vii) Tariffs & trade agreements

While FY10 started with significant positive noise on potential reduction/removal of tariff and
trade barriers for Pak textile exporters, the same has not played out too excitingly YTD. Mar-09
removal of 5.8% anti dumping duty on Pak bed wear exports to the EU has not yet reflected in

29 | P a g e
bed wear exports (-4% YTD FY10) while talks of the EU extending GSP-plus to Pakistan (which
could result in reduction in tariff to 4-4.7% from 11.3- 11.7%) also appear to have reached a
stalemate. With the entrance of Pakistan in the list of Generalized System of Preferences (GSP-
plus) eligible nations, Pakistan textile.

Inflation
Inflation, interest rate, electricity crisis and yarn price have a negative relationship with the
growth of textile industry. The high cost of production resulting from electricity crisis, inflation,
high interest rate, has-been the primary cause for negative growth of the textile industry. The
above factors increase the cost of production which decreases the exports. Although the sector
consists of lot of weaknesses but as a cash cow of the economy it commands some strengths like
cheap labor force, self-production of raw material, skilled engineers, boom in fashion designing
etc. given the fact that the industry still provides the major share of export and employment
opportunities so there is a more than a greater need for steps in right direction by Government to
provide subsidies to the survival of the industry.(Source: International Journal of Scientific &
Engineering Research, Volume 5, Issue 8,August-2014)

30 | P a g e
Zardaris period

Shareefs Period

Normally, the business community of Punjab is believed to be suspicious of the PPP because of
its past. Many remember how the wholesale nationalization of the industry and banking sector in
70s had deprived the industrialists of their wealth and forced them to start from a scratch and
rebuild their businesses. The PML-N and its leader are widely considered pro-business. But no
longer. The business communitys preferences seem to be shifting fast.

It was because of President Zardaris pro-business policies and his personal interest in ensuring
energy supplies to the industry in Punjab that created an enabling environment in the province
that the industry was able to raise its exports, Gohar.

Between 1947 and 2008, the textile exports went up to $9-9.5 billion. But during the last term of
the PPP, the industrys exports surged 50pc.

31 | P a g e
Pakistan has long lost its competitive edge in exports; especially in textile. In terms of GDP the
exports peaked in FY13 at 13.4 percent, which has nosedived since then to stand at multi decade
low of 7.8 percent in FY16. It was not only energy shortage and bleak security that hurt the
country's export; the support offered in other economies also took away the potential share.
Today the textile industry is almost producing at 50 percent of the installed capacity; and there is
ample room for the players to regain the lost share. The catch can be in liquidity as how quickly
SBP would provide the rebate amount to exporters. With SBP being the provider, chances are
that it would be swift. The sector is primarily SME and needs serious expansion. Pakistan is
exporting cloth in bulk to Bangladesh where the value addition takes place, and from there re-
exported to the final destination. The objective should be to have that kind of value addition in
Pakistan. The garment industry works on just-in-time philosophy. Pakistan cloth takes 30 days to
reach Bangladesh and once we have production here that time can be saved; and it will work as
an advantage to Pakistan. The rebate is for 18 months for all the sectors; the column suggests that
it should be expanded to 5 years for the garment sector. The non-garment players making extra
money from rebate in 18 months should invest to come in garment; and those already in the
business should expand.

And players should come up with more lines apart from traditional cotton based products. 80
percent of world market today is based on manmade fibers; and Pakistan should excel in the
sector for not only generating foreign surplus but also in creating employment. The government
has announced duty free machinery import, and has abolished duty on cotton and fibers other
than PSF. But there is a gap in processing the fabric - best technologies in the sector are in Korea
and China. The government should facilitate, maybe under CPEC, to have joint ventures of local
players with foreign experts to open the conduit. Eventually the spillover will create domestic
industry in dyeing and other processing. Till that time, the imports of processed fabric should be
abolished for local garments player to expand. For example, $3.5 billion were allocated as textile
outlay in India during its 11th five-year plan (2007-12), and its implementation was higher than
the promised amount. On the contrary, only 15 percent was implemented out of announced $2.3
billion during 2009-14 textile policy at home. Fiscal support by India was 11 times that of
Pakistan in that period!

32 | P a g e
Expansion
As Pakistan slowly emerges from a long-term power crisis, its once booming textile sector is
scrambling to find its feet but high energy costs and a decade lost to competitors mean
recovery is far from assured. Energy production was severely depressed for more than 10 years
due to chronic under-investment, inefficiencies in the power network and an inability to collect
sufficient revenue to cover costs. Pakistans once-booming textile industry struggles to bounce
back.

As Pakistan slowly emerges from a long-term power crisis, its once booming textile sector is
scrambling to find its feet but high energy costs and a decade lost to competitors mean
recovery is far from assured. Energy production was severely depressed for more than 10 years
due to chronic under-investment, inefficiencies in the power network and an inability to collect
sufficient revenue to cover costs. The result was crippling for manufacturers and in particular the
textile sector, which employs 30 per cent of the working population.

Pakistan is the world's fourth largest cotton producing country but interminable power and gas
cuts have stopped exporters from producing their orders on time. Many have watched helplessly
as their clients have instead turned to Vietnam or Bangladesh.

But the Asian Development Bank is less optimistic, citing the opaqueness of large-scale Chinese
investment in the country's energy infrastructure. The power due to be produced by Chinese-

33 | P a g e
built power plants is expected to be expensive it said, though it anticipates it will still be
cheaper than the thermal plants they are set to replace. In late December, Pakistan's fourth
nuclear power plant went online, built with Chinese assistance as part of Islamabad's plans to
produce 8,800 MW from atomic energy by 2030.Total exports, meanwhile, 60pc of which are
made up by textiles, declined by 13pc in the first nine months of this year compared to last, a
sign that the industry's recovery is yet to begin.

Pakistan Yarn Prices: Domestic and Export Markets

Spun yarn prices are rising in Pakistan, as a result of higher polyester prices and a rebound in
demand from textile mills. Yarn sales are weaker on export markets, by contrast. Cotton and
polyester-cotton (PC) yarn prices are now increasing on Pakistans domestic market, due to a
recovery of demand from the downstream textile industry, especially the home textile producers.
The surge is more visible with poly-cotton yarns which are being supported by a new rise of
polyester prices. PSF prices have increased 8 rupees per kilo or 7.6% in the last four weeks.

Rebound in demand

Larger sales of yarns and fabrics have been reported in the past weeks, although prices have been
raised. Textile producers have purchased large quantities of yarns for the coming period needs, in
anticipation of higher prices in the short term. On the Faisalabad yarn market, polyester-cotton
yarn prices have also been firm, after they have been raised by 2-3% in a week. Business
activities are expected to remain strong and PC prices could further increase 1% to 2% in the
coming weeks.

Weaker export market

On the yarn export market by contrast, a relatively weaker demand has however been reported,
as customers were more interested in getting discounts. The suppliers are however resisting,
thanks to the rebound in domestic demand. Chinese customers continue booking small orders for
coming month deliveries, but many of them are also looking for discounts on current price
levels. European customers are more interested in buying Mlange, double yarns and organic
yarns at higher prices. Demand should increase in coming weeks.

34 | P a g e
Yarn production rising

Gas supply to the spinning and processing plants has been restored; this could result in higher
operating rates and improve production at yarn processing plants as well. Demand and prices
have slightly risen on Pakistans domestic cotton market as a result of the recovery in yarn sales.
The largest spinning mills prefer however importing cotton from China and India due to quality
concerns on the domestic market.

Benchmark Karachi Cotton Association (KCA) official spot rate has rebounded to Rs 5,300 per
mound of 37.32 kilos.

Higher polyester prices

Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF) prices are now more rapidly rising in Pakistan after the import
offers from China have rebounded to US$0.96 per kilo, CNF Karachi.

Benchmark 1.4 denier fibers further gained Rs.1 to Rs.114 per kilo in a week and is expected to
remain firm in coming days.

A lack of demand for polyester fibers is persisting in Pakistan, which is being reflected by a
decline in the level of imports to 3,900 metric tons in the past month, due to the surge of imports
of polyester blended yarns from the Far East.

35 | P a g e
Conclusion

The textile industry of Pakistan plays an important role in earning foreign exchange, providing
employment to the country. But with the ending of quota system in world, Pakistan textile loses
share in world trade of textile products. Pakistan textile products will have a big potential to
capture big share of world trade but there are lots of reasons which forces to step back from
using the full capacity of textile machinery to earn more and more foreign exchange for the
country. In upcoming year, Pakistan textile exports are 10-11 billion US dollars approximately.
Government of Pakistan is not serious in resolving problems like shortage of electricity and gas
which forces the textile exporters not to take orders because not fulfill the orders on time. With
these reasons import of textile machinery declined year on year basis.

With all these reasons Pakistan textile owners use old machinery which is less efficient and not
up to the mark with the competing countries. If Government of Pakistan does not take immediate
steps to counter all these problems then Pakistan trade deficit will raise more as compared to
FY15-16 due to this Pakistan rupee will depreciate more. The textile industry has urged the
government to continue the sales tax zero-rating facility to five export-oriented sectors in the
upcoming federal budget 2017-18, besides speeding up the disbursement of drawbacks under the
PM export package, zero-rating facility was reinstated in order to save the exporters from
liquidity crunch; however, the FBR wanted to sabotage the government's efforts of enhancing
export. It has rolled back all sales tax refund payment orders (RPO) considering unnecessary
objections, adding the miseries of exporters.

To some this may seem like a depression state of affairs. But to others, it is simply an
opportunity.

36 | P a g e
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38 | P a g e