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Cleaner Production
8 iD Textile Wei
Processing
1 A Workbook for Trainers 1

First Edition .March 1996

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UNEP
UNITED NATIONS ENVIRONMENTPROGRAMME
INDUSTRYAND ENVIRONMENT
3~3. QUAIANDREClTROEN
7S739 PARIS CEDEX IS-FRANCE
TEL: (33)0144371450
FAX: (33)0144 3714 74
E-MAll. : unepie@unep.fr
bup:/ /www.unepie.org/home.bbnl

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!t'À) Ind~stryand Cleaner Production-) -'

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"~ Env~ronment
in TextileWei Processing
Envlronmental .
Training Unit A Workbookfor Tramers
UNEF This packageis oneof a seriesthatprovidespracticalsupportmaterialto
teachersandtrainerswishingto commenceor enrich their curriculum with
up-to-dateapproachesin environmentalmanagement.

It is basedon extendedexperiencewith training workshopsby UNEP and

otheragencies,and is now beingmadeavailablefor wider use in ail regions
throughouttheworld.

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AcknOwledgements
The flfst version of this trainers workbook was prepared in
March 1996 by Dr Prasad Modak for UNEP lE and later
edited by Fritz Balkau.
It was subsequently trialled in workshops and courses in
several places, leading to subsequent revis ions to produce
this current document.

UNE? wou Id like to thank the many individuals and

organizations who contributed ideas and materials, or who
assisted in reviews and redrafting.

Copyright If:) UNEP 1996

Ali rightsreserved.No part ofthis publicationmay be produced,storedin
a retrieval systemor transmittedin any fonn or anymeans:electronic. )
electrostatic,magnetictape,mechanical,photocopying,recordingor
otherwise,without pennissionin writing from the copyrightholder.

First edition March 1996

The designationsemployedand the presentationof the materialin this
publicationdo not imply the expressionof any opinionwhatsoeveron the
part of the United Nations EnvironmentProgrammeconcemingthe legal
statusof any country,territory, city or areaor of ilS authorities,or
concemingdelimitation of ilS frontiersor boundaries.Moreover,the
views expresseddo not necessarilyrepresentthe decisionor the stated
policy of the United Nations EnvironmentProgramme,nor doesciting of
tradenamesor commercialprocessesconstituteendorsement.

UnitedNationsPublication
1 ISB~ 92-807-1608-5 1

.)
 8
Table 01 Contents
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing
Evaluation Form i
Users Guide """.".'..".""""""""""""""""""""'."""'."'.".""""".'.'...""""""""" iii
Glossary v

Part 1 Introduction Part V Environmental Aspects of the Dyeing Process

1.1 This package 1:4 5.1 Dyeing v:3

1.2 Contents ofthis package [:4 5.2 Dyes and their applicability v:4

Part Il Organizing Effective Training Activities 5.3 Dyeing machineries v:6

2.1 Introduction 11:3 5.4 Dyeing pollutionalloads v:9

2.2 Notes on interactive 5.5 Exercises V: II
workshop organization 11:4 5.6 Solutions V 17

8 2.3 Some.ideas for m~re .Part VI Environmental Aspects of the Printing

effective commurncatlon 11:9 and Finishing Processes
2.4 Some personal suggestions 6.1 Printing vI:3
for effective training Il: 10 2 F
6 .mIs .. h1
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ng , V I .,4
2.5 Resource persons guide Il: II 6.3 Printing and finishing pollution
2.6 Suggestions for self study Il: 13 loads , vI:7

Part III Introduction to Current Environmental 6.4 Exercises vI:8

Issues and Aspects of 6.5 Solutions v[:9

Textile Wet Processing Part VII Application of Environmental Audit to

3.1 Introduction 1113 identify Cleaner Production Measures

3.2 Understanding 7.1 Achieving cleaner production VII:3

environmental problems 1II4 7.2 Cleaner Production audit VII: 5

3.3 Env!ronmental. as~ects of the 7.3 Conducting a waste audit VII:6 .

textIle processmg mdustry 1II:6
3 4 :Exercises 1II9 7' 45' Ph ase 1 P re-assessmen t VII 7
Ph 2 l~ t .
..ase JVJa erla 1 ba1an ce:
3.5 Solutions III: II process inputs and outputs VII: 9

Part IV Environmental Aspects of 7.6 Economic and environmental

Preparatory Processing evaluation VII: 24

8 4.1 Sizi~~ (slashing) lv3 7.7 Solutions VII:29

4.2 Deslzmg Iv:4 Part VIII References

4.3 Scouring Iv:6 8.1 Some background documents

4.4 Bleaching Iv8 on the environment VIII:3

45M " IvlO ..
.ercerlzmg 8.2 Audlovlsuals VIII: 5
4.6 Exercises [V 12

4.7 Questions , IV 15
4.8 Solutions [v: 17

Annexes ..3
Il1 Data
A Compilation
related to Pollution
of the Best Issues
Environmental
mcludmg Practices
Health and
in Safety
Textile Aspects
WeI Processing 13

Appendices
1 S . D t fi th ' s Package 3
11 Listupportmg
of Training ocumen
Resource s or Packages
1 available from UNEF lE 5

/II About UNEF Industry and Environment 7

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 iii

8
T his is a trainers support package, not a
reference book. It does flot give a
systematic, comprehensive overview
(there is flot enough room to do fuis); rallier, it
focuses on some selected aspects that are central
to the subject. The structure of the document
allows further sections to be easily developed and
added as additional modules.
The package is written for trainers to provide
them with support material and ideas. It bas flot
8 been intended as a study book for students. The
average trainee will only ever see a few pages or
exercises reproduced from this document.
One of the purposes ofthis package is to
provide some case studies and situation scenarios
that can be used as a basis for interactive training
and simulated decision-making. The exercises
only explore a small part of the potential of the
case studies, and trainers are strongly encouraged
to develop further exercises or tasks.
The package is oriented at developing insights
and decision-making ski Ils. It is not particularly
suited to teaching the factual knowledge base of
the subject. For this, trainers are referred to the
reading lists in the bibliography.
Work exercises are predominantly based on
interactive groupwork and a team approach to
Users Guide
problem-solving. Such work needs to be guided
by a rotor who is a recognized expert in the field.
This method allows the full complexity of real
decision-making to be explored.
Where calculations are required, the exercises
are more oriented towards throwing light on
useful approachesor managementdecisions than
simply fmding the 'correct' answer. Trainers are
strongly urged flot to seethis package merely as a
set of arithmetic exercises.
ln some instances,answers are indicated. The
'correct' answer often depends on the context of
the question. It is here that a tutor or extemal
resource expert is useful.
Many trainers find fuis disturbing. They should
remember that real decision-making depends on
the wider circumstances surrounding the
problem, and that a numerical answer which is
politically or socially unacceptable, or
administratively unworkable (even though
accurate), is flot in effect 'correct'.
The simulation of reallife situations and
decision-making that is the basis ofthis package
makes it most suitable for senior students and
trainees,and especially for professional training
(or retraining) courses.

8 Do flot forget to also refer to the package on Cleaner Production

for teaching the underlying concepts and approaches in this workbook.

Finally, we must stress again that fuis package does flot cover ail aspects of the subject. Its prime
purpose is to lead trainers into this field, and to help and encouragethem to develop their own material,
appropriately tailored to their specific leaming situation. UNEP is prepared to work further with trainers
who wish to extend this package into new directions, or go into greater depths on some subjects.

8 -- A Workbookfor rrainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processlng

iv United Nations Environment Programme elndustry and Environment

How 10sian a Iraining aclivitv )

based on Ibis workbook

1 Remember that this is a starters kit, not a 3 Refresh Jour memory by reading some of the
complete recipe book. Remember also that the background papers and studying the overhead
workbook aims to develop insights and decision- transparencies. Write your own notes in the
making skills, not to convey knowledge or facts. spaces provided.
2 Understand the needs ofyour trainees. What 4 Identify some expert resource persans who
insights or skills do you intend to develop? cou Id be invited as rotors to help you in
Define your learning objectives. discussion sessions.

5 Select some of the exercises you wish to 7 DeveloP other exercises or questions
present to trainees. yourself. "
6 Examine carefully tire case study or 8 Develop Jour own local case study if you can, )

scenario on which they are based. Be sure and use this instead of the one in the package.
that you have at least one solution to the exercise 9 prepare some background questions and
that you can explain and defend. preliminary exercises for train ers to carry out
before they start the workshop/course.

1 Q In session, summarize tire issues for a rotor. Discuss and compare results. Be open
trainees using the overheads given, and to ideas and experiences from trainees, and
others you may have. Discuss the problems and discuss these.
difficulties decision-makers face. Discuss where 12 Return to tire learning objectives, and
factual information can be round to help in check that they have been achieved.

decision-making. 13 Consider how to follow up and reinforce

Il Commence tire work sessions, preferably the learning experience by establishing
in small groups, and preferably guided by some ongoing projects, or periodic reunions.

Refer also to other packages and workbooks, where useful addition al teaclring material is found.

To facilitate using this workbook, the header of odd-numbered pages describes the contents ofthat
particular section. This information is also repeated in the footer of even-numbered pages. You can track
your progress through the workbook by referring to the calibrations on the bar across the bottom of odd-

numbered pages:

The shading shows your current position in the text.

0'

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook for Trainers

,..co
 v

8
Glossarv
T his glossary contains some tenns which are used in the background papers and exercises, or
which you may corne across when gathering infonnation about the topic. You may want to add
some tenns to this list.

These tenns have been taken from the Australian and New Zealand Guidelines for the Assessmentand
Management ofContaminated Sites,the Code of Practicefor the Investigation and Mitigation of
Possible Petroleum-Based Land Contamination, the UNIDO training course on Ecologically
Sustainable Development, some US EPA publications, and some UNEP lE publications.

8 Absorptivity The ability to absorb matter in bulk
(e.g. water, dissolved chemicals, gases).
Aquifer An underground rock fonnation
composed of materials such as sand, soil or
gravel that tan store and supply ground water to
wells and springs.
Background levels Levels of substancesor
chemicals that are commonly found in the local
environment.
Bioaccumulation The retention and concentration
of a substanceby an organism.
Biodegradation Decomposition of substancesinto
more elementary compounds by the action of
micro-organisms.
Biomagnification The serial accumulation of a
chemical by organisms in the food chain, with
higher concentrations of the substancein each
succeeding trophic level.
8 Biological monitoring Measurement of a
contaminant or metabolite in body tissue or
fluid.
Clean-up The removal, treatment or containment
ofsoil contaminated with chemicals at
unacceptable concentrations.
Cleaner production The continuous application of
an integrated preventive strategy to processes
and products, in order to reduce environmental
risks and impacts.
Contaminated A condition or state which
represents or potentially represents an adverse
health or environmental impact becauseof the
presence of potentially hazardous substances.
Contaminated site A site where the level(s) of
hazardous substancesis (are) above response
level(s): i.e. where the site specific assessment
deems that a responseis required to protect
health or the environment.
Cradle-to-graveTenn used to imply the whole
life cycle of a product, from raw material to
final disposai.
End-of-pipe treatment Treating pollutants at the
end ofa process (by, for example, filters,
catalysts and scrubbers) instead ofpreventing
their occurrence.
Environmentalauditing The management tool
comprising a systematic, documented, periodic
and objective evaluation ofhow weil
environmental organization, management and
equipment are perfonning. The aim is to help to
safeguardthe environment by: (i) facilitating
managementcontrol of environmental practice;
and (ii) assessingcompliance with company
policies, which would include regulatory
requirements.
Environmental impact assessment An analysis to
detennine whether an action would
significantly affect the environment.
Environmental risk assessmentThe process of
estimating the potential impact of a chemical or
physical agent on a specified ecological system
under a specific set of conditions.
Exposure Contact with a chemical, physical or
biological agent.
Exposure assessmentThe estimation (qualitative
or quantitative) of the magnitude, frequency,
duration, route and extent (for example, number
of organisms) of exposure to a chemical
substanceor contaminant.

8 A Warkbaakfor Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processlng

"'--""..".,.~-'"..,.~""~",
vi United Nations Environment Programme olndustryandEnvironment
Hazard The capacity to produce a particular type of
adverse health or environrnental effect: e.g. one
hazard associated with benzene is leukemia.
Health risk assessment The process of evaluating
the potential impact of a chemical or physical
agent on a specified human population system
under a specific set of conditions.
Hydrology The science dealing with the
properties, movement, and effects ofwater on
the earth's surface, in the soil and rocks below,
and in the atmosphere.
Incineration Buming of certain types of solid,
liquid, or gaseousmaterials under controlled
conditions to destroy hazardous waste.
Indicator analytes Readily measured chemicals
that can indicate the probable presence of
certain classes of chemicals or substances.
Investigation level The concentration level of a
contaminant above which further appropriate
investigation and evaluation will be required.
ln-situ ln the original place or location.
Leachate A contaminated liquid resulting when
water percolates, or trickles, through waste
materials and collects components ofthose
wastes.
Life cycle analysis A quantitative assessmentof
the total environrnental impacts caused by a
particular process or product, from resource
consumption to contamination, from the cradle
to the grave.
Mass/material balance A precise account of ail the
inputs and outputs of a process, based on the
law of conservation of mass.
Metabolite A substance produced or modified by
metabolism in an organism.
Mobility The ability of particles and substancesto
move, either by random motion or under the
influence of field forces.
Monitoring wells Special wells drilled at specific
locations on or off a hazardous waste site where
groundwater can be sampied at selected depths
and studied to determine such things as the
direction in which groundwater flows and the
types and amountsof contaminants present.
Persistence The ability of a substanceto remain
unaltered for prolonged periods.
Phytotoxicity Toxicity ofa substance for plants.
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbookfor Trainers
Pollution Degradation or impairment of the purity )
of the environrnent by causing a condition
which is hazardous to public health, safety,
aesthetics or welfare, or to animais, birds,
wildlife, fish or aquatic life, or to plants.
Porosity Property of a solid which contains many
small channels or open spaces.
Preliminary assessment The process of collecting
and reviewing available information about a
known or a suspected hazardous waste site or
release. If further study is needed, a site
inspection is undertaken.
Receptor An organism, plant or physical structure
that receives, may receive or bas received
environrnental exposure to a chemical.
RemediationThe clean-up or mitigation of
pollution/contamination of soil by various ..
methods. )
Response level Response levels apply to a
specific site and site assessmentand are levels
at which some form ofresponse to protect
public health and/or the environment with a
wide margin of safety is required.
Risk The probability that an adverse outcome will
occur in a person, a group, or an ecological
system that is exposed to a particular dose or
concentration of a hazardous agent: i.e. it
depends on both the level of toxicity of
hazardous agent and the level of exposure.
Risk managementThe process whereby decisions
are made to accept a known or assessedrisk
and/or the implementation of actions to reduce
the consequencesor probabilities of occurrence.
Site inspection A technical phase that follows a
preliminary assessmentdesigned to collect )
more extensive information on a '
contaminated site.
Sustainable development Meeting the needs of
the present generation without compromising
the ability of future generations to meet
their needs.
Technology assessment An analytical tool used
to help understand the likely impact of the use
of a new technology by an industry or society.
Toxicity The quality or degree ofbeing
poisonous or harmful to plants, animais
or humans.
).
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Part 1
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1.2 Contents of this package 1:4

)
A Workbookfor Trainers: Cleaner Production ln Textile Wet Processlng

"""'.ili"","",.~c.

8
1 Introduction
M anyteachinginstitutionsand
individualtrainershavedifficulty in
following the rapid evolutionof
environmentalissuesthatare relevantto their
courses.
This is particularlytrue whenteachingsubjects
8 suchas pollution and environmentalmanage-
ment.And yet it is importantthat newgraduates
havea goodknowledgeof issuesin which they
may eventuallyprovide consultingservicesor
policy adviceto govemmentsand industry.
The fact that developmentand environmentare
interrelatedmeansthat it is more vital thanever
that:
.ail professionalshavea basicenvironmental
literacy that helpsthemto incorporate
environmentalpriorities into their specialized
work, whatevertheir profession;
.specializedenvironmentalcoursesare relevant
to today's environmentalagenda.
8 .iiP:"""i"
~" .A Warkbaak for Trainers : Cleaner
1:3
ln 1993,in responseto thesefindings,UNEP,
WHO,andILO jointly initiatedthe programme
on TrainingApproachesfor Environmental
Managementin Indust!)'.The programmeaimsto
enhancethe capacityof nationalinstitutionsto
offer localtraining on topicsconcemedwith the
preventionof industrialpollution.
ln this context,trainers'packageshave been
preparedon differentareasof environmental
management. Thesepackagesare intendedto
helpeducatorsand trainersto developtheir own
workshopsor curricula,or to integratesomeof
the ideasand informationinto alreadyexisting
teachingprogrammes.
/t is important to keepin mind that
thesetraining resourcepackagesmerely
pro videafirst orientation to the topic.
ln no waydoesthepackageconstitute
a 'course' in ils own right.
Production ln Textile Wet Processlng
1:4 United Nations Environment Programme' IndustryandEnvironment
1.1 Tbis package
T his packageis a workbookthatcomplements
the trainer's packageon 'Cleaner
Production'. For bestresults,bothshouldbe used
together.ln manycases,it would be usefulto use
the CleanerProductionmaterialas an
introductionto anycurriculum-basedmaterialin
this workbook.
The workbookis balancedbetweencurriculum-
basedcontent(usefulfor technicians)anda more
managementsystemsapproach(usefulfor
supervisorsandmanagers).ln practice,both will
be needed,andthe traineris urgedto developa
12 Contents oltbis package
T his packageis conceivedprincipallyto
helptrainerspreparea seminar,
workshop,or extendedcourse.It is not a
courseper se.
The packagecontains:
.suggestions andhints for effectivetraining;
.a short backgroundto the subject,drawnfrom
otherexistingpublications;
.overhead transparenciesto introduceand
illustratethe main ideas;
.case studiesand situationreportsandscenarios
drawn from actualexperience;
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook
Part 1 .Introduction
l
balancedcurriculum in responseto the needsof
his/heraudience.Any missingelementsmay be
found in one of the otherUNEP manuals,to be
convertedinto training formatbasedon the case
studiesandscenarioincludedhere.
Thus,the packageis not static.
As feedbackis receivedfrom usersand
technicalspecialists,the materialwill be
modified andenriched.
Usersareencouraged to report on their
experiencesin usingthis package,andto send in
suggestionsfor improvements.
.work exercisesandquestions;
.annexescontainingsupplementarytechnical
informationto supportsomework exercises;
.appendices with further information about
UNEP and its programmes.
Trainersareencouragedto extendthe packageby
addingtheir own casestudiesand exercises,and
expandingthe subjectcoverageinto newtopics.
For example,trainersin environmentalhealthmay
wishto add somemoduleson occupationalsafety
and ecotoxicityby building onthe chemical
informationalreadypresented. )
for Trainers }
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Part 2
Organizing Effective
! Training Activities

2.1 Introduction """"""""""'" II:3

2.2 Notes on interactive workshop organization II:4

2.3 Some ideas for more effective communication II:5

)

2.4 Some personal suggestions for effective training 11:6

2.5 Resource persons guide II:7

2.6 Suggestions for self study 11:9

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, C A Warkbaak for Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

-",-

8
2 Organizing Effective
Training Activities
8
C ommunication and organizational skiIls
are just as important as a technical
appreciation of the subject. Professional
educators already understand this point, but
teaching is a very individual matter, and
interactive teaching can be very demanding on a
busy person.
Here, we recall some of the key aspects of the
leaming process.
This text contains suggestions about:
.how to ensure maximum effectivenessas a
trainer
.how to organize effective training activities and
presentations.
We have provided this advice before
consideration of the technical material, so that
readers can remind themselves of the importance
of the advice when choosing work exercises and
8 training projects, later in this package.
Adults learn best wl,en tl,ey are actively
engaged. They remember 20% ofwhat they hear,
40% of what they see,and 80% of what they
d. fi h l
lscover or t emse ves.
8
A Workbookfor Trainers: Cleaner Production ln Textile Wet Processlng
Il:3
2.1 Introduction
Accordingly, this package relies on interactive
teaching methods, using working exercises, case
studies,and groupwork problem-solving, rather
than on lecture format.
Interactive techniques are more complex to
organize than simple lecture-giving, but they give
better results. ln particular, interactive methods
are more likely to provide students with practical
skills. This is important where skill development
rather than factual knowledge is the objective.
Lectures are better at providing factual
knowledge than at developing skills.
For example, a workshop format is very
effective in providing training on the effective
use of managementtools such as Environmental
Impact Assessment(ElA), or audits. For high
level environmental management, both
knowledge and skiIls are required, so the
appropriate mixture of techniques should be used.
The notes in this Part are based on the
experiencesofUNEP lE and WHO in organizing
workshops and other training sessions.
Personaladvice on how to be an effective trainer
is also given by several experienced trainers, who
ail use interactive training approaches.
Il:4 United Nations EnvironmentProgramme' Industry
andEnvironment
2.2 Notes on interactive workshop organization
2.2.1 Workshops
W or~hoPs provide a stimulatinglearning
enVIronment wherepeoplewith a wide
range of experiencesandskills canjoin together
to addresspracticalproblemsbeyondthe ability
of an individual to resolve.
Interactiveworkshopsusea combinationof
severaltechniquesto bring abouta deeperand
more pragmaticlearningexperiencethan is
possiblewith a lecture-styleformat.
Workshopsalsoprovide excellentopportunities
for exchangingpersonalexperiences, problem-
solving throughpanelsessionsand direct
consultationswith experts,anddiscussingsome
of the complexsituationswhich surroundmost
environmentalproblems.
The UNEP/WHO workshopformat
incorporatesthe following elements:
.sending out pre-workshopreadingmaterial,
with somesimpleexercises
~CC--
2.2.2 Preparation
Sessions needto be carefullyprepared,with
participantsknowing in advancewhatthey
will do or see.A profonna reportform for
countryreportsgivesa commonformatto these
sessions.Countryreportsshouldalso try to link
the issueswith othersessions.
-~~=.._~
2.2.3 Organization
T he organization ofworking groupsessions
also requirescare.Groupsshouldfirst meet
infonnally, electtheir own chairman,and thenact
as a pennanentteam in variousworkshop
sessions.Theyare guided,but DOtinstructed,by
technicalexperts.
It is usefulto finish the workshopby preparing
personalactionplans.Participantsshoulddevelop
and presenttheir proposaIsfor what they can
initiate immediatelyon their retumhome. Such
actionincludes:
.what they canachieveunassisted,and
.what elsetheycould achieveif someassistance
were available.
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook
Part 2 .OrganizingEffectiveTrainingActivities
)
.pre~~tion of a countryreportby each
partIcIpantbeforethe workshop
.short introductoryor overviewlectureson key
issues
.practical problem-solvingwork exerciseson
casestudies
.feedback by expertsanddiscussionson
workshopexercises
.panel sessions(that is, question-answer
dialogues)with experts
.individual study sessions,computerquizzes,
andso on.
.structured oral presentationsof countryreports l
leadingto a regionaloverview
.audiovisuals suchasvideos, films, and slides
.field visits whereappropriate
.personal actionplanningby participantsfor
follow-up activity.
It cannotbe overstressedhow important it is
that participants should be thorouglrlyprepared
for the workshops,and tllat ail tl,epre-
workshopactivitiesI,avebeen completed.
l
',f
The foIe ofresourceexpertsasadvisorsis
crucial. Theyshouldhave sufficient experienceto
assistin ail sessionsandprovide generaladvice
on ail subjectsin workshops,discussionor panel
sessions.Theyshouldnot, however,dominatethe
workshops.
The five clayfonnat is ideal for covering ail
theserequirements.If lessthan five daysis taken,
you canbe surethat importantissueswill be left
out. If moretime is available,considerincluding
socialeventsandprivate study sessions,along
with moreextensiveprojectwork for the
students.
for Trainers )
 ïij'rJ Il:5

8
2.3 Someideas lor more enective communication
I f the training is to be successful,effective
communicationis essential- from recognition
of the training needto the fmal evaluationof the
event.
Without good communication,ail manDerof
things cango wrong:
.the training is too early-or too late -to make
any impacton performance
.trainees do not know whatthe training is about
or whatto expect
.the courseis plannedfor a localpublic holiday
.trainees who aretraditionallyusedto lectures
are suddenlyrequiredto take part in discussion
groups,which might feel aliento them.
Mostofthese issuescanbe anticipatedand
overcomeby good communicationbetweenthe
coursedesigners,writers,and eventorganizers
andpresenterson the one side,andthe students
and their organizationson the other.
Somesimple communicationconsiderationswill
helpto improveoutputsin training andavoid
disasters.

8 Before the learning event

Find out:
.how the learners have been taught in the past
.the real needs and situation of the learners
.whether the facilities are adequatefor the envisagedtraining
.whether the training has the support of senior people
.how successwill be measured.
Make a project plan for the organizers,giving details ofhow
the eventwill beorganized.Sendtheplan to them,with details
ofthe keydatesand needs.

During the learning

.find out how relevant the topics are to the work situation of the
participants
.start with the familiar ail can -not a video of an oi 1
spill disaster
.communicate using topics, themes and issues in the
local press
8 .store unansweredquestions, and remember to answer
them before the end
.keep notes for participants to bullet-point fonTlat
.ensure the participants keep notes for future reference -few
read essays,or even articles
.if you are working in a foreign language,at leasttranslate the
siides.

After the learning event

.always communicate your thanks and best wishes
.infonTl participants on follow-up study procedures, and how the
instructor can help to analyze the evaluations and infonTl the
organizers of the results
.communicate to colleaguesthe results of the training and what
can be learned from these results.

8 1_!lill:1itim: A Workbook
for Tra;ners
: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processlng

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Il:6 United Nations Environment Programme' Industry and Environment

2A Some personal suggestions )

for enective training

T he following
different
suggestions corne from four teachers with long experience in training.
in character, and therefore in teaching approaches. However, they aIl believe in an
They are ail

enthusiasm for the subject which is critical when teaching students.

To be an effective educator/teacher: The outstanding educator/teacher:

.Provide an enjoyable learning situation that expands .Is fully acquainted with, and believes iD, the
ail of the participants' network. educational merit of the subject matter.
.Model courses and teaching styles on examples that .Utilizes clear and graphic illustrations to inform
you think are outstanding. Ask yourself about the and motivate the students to leam. )
qualities of a good instructor or a good course, and .Utilizes leaming approaches including multi-
follow the answers you corne up with. media, projects, interviews, questionnaires,
.Allow the subject matter to be discussed and debates, and similar interactive approaches to
discovered by students -not hammered in. ensure full involvement of the students.
.Make courses relevant and interesting by .Reacts positively to ail questions -there are no
understanding your audience. Ask them what they Stupid Questions, only Stupid Answers.
already know, and then plan for their needs, .Remembers that positive reinforcement is a
Incorporate ideas trom the group in the course. better motivational approach than criticism.
.Remember that no amount of style will substitute for .Is available for private discussions with
a jack of substance. individual students or groups of students.
Deborah Hanlon. Environmental Scientist Don Huisingh, EnvironmentalConsultantand Professorat
Office of Environmental Engineering ErasmusUniversity in Rotterdam
and Technology Demonstration. US EPA the Nelherlands

To be efficient ('doing things right~, and The best educatorlteacher:

effective ('doing tire right things~: .Likes the learners, and has a true understanding of
.Think about helping people to leam, rather than how they learn.
teaching them. .Has the ability to communicate. )
.Seek leamer feedback, and measure leaming .Will change the training programme and the
achieved with objective tests. approach if necessary.
.Set leaming time limits. .Is stilileaming, and has recent applied experience of
.Seek conscious and unconscious leaming. the subject being taught.
.Seek leaming that endures, based on .Has the ability to organise events and to manage
understanding and skills. things.
Bob Boland, EnvironmentalConsultant,France Colin Sutherland, Educational Consultant, Franœ

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook for Trainers )

Part 2 .Organizing Effective Training Activities

c,",.
 m. Il:7
8 2.5 Resource persons guide

A s this package relies heavily on interactive groupwork sessions,here are some guidelines on how
to be an effective resource persan.
ln a case study-based training approach,the resource persan servesmore as a:
.facilitator of the group learning process
.technical adviser as needed,
and a
.catalyst of learning
rather than a:
.lecturer
.story-teller
or
.instructor.
8
Here are some guidelines on how to be an effective resource person.

1 Be sure that you have read and understood
thoroughly the participant's notes before you
meet your group. There's nothing like being
prepared and more familiar with the case study
scenario than the participants are!
2 Before every group work session,take time
to visit your assigned meeting room and
check the:
.seating arrangements There should be a large
enough table surrounded by enough chairs for
the participants and yourself
.equipment and supplies such as flipcharts,
flipchart papers, marker pens, whitelblack
8 board, board eraser,masking tape, transparency
sheets,writing pads, ballpen/pencils, calculator,
etc.
.physical conditions of the room There should
be sufficient lighting, the room temperature
should be comfortable, noise should be as low
as possible, etc.
3 During the initial group meeting, it is
important to set an informai andfriendly
atmosphere. lt is suggested that you:
.introduce yourselj; preferably asking everyone
to cali you by your first name, and then let
everybody introduce himself/herself in a similar
manner. Do not waste lime stating positions
and respective organizations, etc., which
should have been done on the flrst day anyway.
.then ask if the objectives and pur pose of the
exercise,which have been previously discussed
in the plenary session,are clear to them.
Sample objectives are:
-identify and understand the options that SMEs
tan employ in their pollution prevention
program
-evaluate the feasibility and suitability of these
options in view oftechnical, environmental,
financial, organizational, and social criteria
and constraints.
lt will be useful to know whether the majority
of the group members have actually read the text
provided, which statesthe background and the
problem.
lfthey have not, then you will need to direct
them to focus their attention first on what needs
to be accomplished by the end of each part.
4 lfYOUr group gets involved in.diverse issues,
try to steer them back on the nght track by
asking relevant questions, rather than telling
them what to do.
5 Give technical assistance and
supplementary information as needed,

8 lIrfJ'
"" 'in ,;, TextiléWet Processing
Il:8 United Nations Environment Programme. Industryand Environment
without 'spoon-feeding' the participants.
However, do not lecture or dominate the group
6
discussion process.
AlthOUgh you need not star with your group
for 100% of the time, it is expected that you:
.spend at least 80% afthe rime with them during
regular sessions.The crucial times are at the
beginning, middle, and near the end of each
groupwork session.
.Ifthey decide to work beyond the prescribed
regular time, just make sure that they are on the
right track; your presenceduring overtime is
7 not mandatory, but voluntary.
There will be critical parts during the
identification of options, followed by
technical, environmental, and economic
evaluation, where your technical advice will be
most needed by your group.
The best way to assist the participants is by
giving only the advantagesand disadvantages of
the options in question. Let them weigh these
pros and cons and decide for themselves whether
to take or drop the option.
8 If you encounter any question about the
technical content of the material that you
have not been briefed on, discuss it with the
Team Leader and agree on how to tackle the
situation. It may weil be that the other resource
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbookfor Tra;ners
Part 2 .Organizing Effective Training Activities
"-
persons need to be duly advised on the )
particular question.
g see to it that you compare notes, exchange
hints, and share strategies with other
resource persons so that you can assist one
another, as weil as gauge your group's progress
in comparison with the others.
10 If tension or heated argument arises
among your group members, try rOUf
best (with a sense ofhumor) to defuse it.
Il ln the case of absenteeism, approach the
person/persons in question and encourage
them to participate.
12 If one or two group members are
dominating the discussions or doing ail
the work, intervene and encourage everyone to
gel involved. ln order to do this effectively, you ,
need to be attuned to your group's 'culture' and )
trend of discussion.
13 Although division of labor is a time
saving group work strategy, you must
ensure that it is not done to the extent that there is
no peer learning and discussion occurring. It is
counter-productive for group members to work
individually on these exercises.
14 The most productive, meaningful and
fulfilling group work is when they get to
accomplish what they have to do as a team -and
have fun in the process!
)
 511~. Il:9

8 2.6 Suggestions for self studv

A lthOUgh this package was designed

to provide resources for trainers,
the potential for self-study should
Dot be ignored.
The package does Dot constitute a complete
course on cleaner production in leather tanning,
but can be seenas an introduction to be
supplemented by further reading and additional
training materials listed in the Appendices, and
perhaps by site visits and discussions with
professionals.
The following approach is suggested for
individual study.

8 .Read the introduction, but avoid any sections on organizing training events.

.Seek out the section containing background papers or subject content. Read through
the whole section as narrative.
.Work through the pagesoffered to the trainer for overhead projection, and ensure
you can relate the key points of eachoverheadto the text you have read.
.Look at the section on exercises. Identify those which lend themselvesto individual
work, and tackle them. Those exercises clearly constructed for teamwork, or
requiring research, may not be appropriate.
.Refer back to the narrative text as and when you need to, to complete the exercises.
.Check rOUf answers against those given in this resourcepack. Where there are
discrepancies, check through your own working to understandwhy the
discrepanciesappeared.
8 .Use the Appendices to plan rOUf own further development.

8 A Warkbaakfor Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

" "'-~._-"_." "' l ,.",.., ,.,--

 Bi11 111:7
to Current Environmental Issues and Environmental Aspects of Textile WeI Processing

8 Table 3.2 and Table 3.3 below show impacts of raw material production to health and the environrnent
of natural and synthetic fibres in the textile industry.

Table 32 Impactsof rawmaterialproductionof

naturalfibresfrom plantson humanhealthandthe environment

Process Desired Area of application Chemicalsemployed Possible impacts on health

effect and the environment
Cultivation Pesticides Naturalfibres: .Aldrin .acute toxicity(oral
.cotton .Chlordane and dermal)
.bast (flax,jute, .DDT .local, acute effects
hemp,ramie) .Dieldrin .short-term toxicity
.Endrin .long-term toxicity
.HCH (including .carcinogenicity
8 Lindane) .mutagenicity
.pCP .reproduction toxicity
.Toxa hene .neurotoxici
Harvesting Defoliation Naturalfibres: .2, 4-d see above
.cotton .2, 4, 5-t
.bast (flax,jute, (agentorange)
hem

Table 3.3 Impactsof rawmaterialproductionof

syntheticfibreson humanhealthandthe environment

Process Desired Area of application Chemicals employed Possible impacts on health

effect and environment
8 Raw Fibre material Regenerated .Solvents
material cellulosefibres: .Other substances
synthesis .viscose
.acetate
Raw Fibre material Syntheticfibres: .Fossil fuels .Non-renewableenergy
material .polyamide resource
synthesis .polyester
.polyacrylic
.01 vin Ichlorine
e.g. Catalysisof Polyester Heavymetals .Toxic effectsto
Polyester polymerisation containingcatalysts: humanhealth
synthesis .antimony trioxide
.antimony pentoxide
.ermanium dioxide

8 A Warkbaak for ila;ners : Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

111:8 United Nations Environment Programme' IndustryandEnvironment

A h . 1. h b . :'k

s
t
e
envlronmenta
Issues
ave
more complex,a comprehensive integrated treatmentstrategy.If pollution avoidance,
approachis requiredto tacklethe problemof
pollution control. Avoidanceof wastegeneration
and reductionwheneverand whereverpossible
shouldbecomethe strategyof first priority. This
would imply that utilization of aIl types of
resources-water, chemicals,heat,and so on-neighbouring
shouldbe optimal. This couId be done in many
instancesby the implementationof simple
measures,suchasgood housekeepingor reuseof
resources.
ln a few situations,a review of the existing
processtechnologymay alsobe neededwith
respectto the choiceof process,processing
sequenceandequipment.Examplesof such
optionsinclude:
.water conservationby counter-current washing .pH.
.recovery of chemicalssuchas size,caustic,
dyesand grease
.substitution of low BOD (BiochemicalOxygen
Demand)chemicalsfor high BaD oDes
.heat recoveryfrom effluents,etc.
Textile equipmentmanufacturersarebecoming
more and more awareof the needto conserve
water,chemicalsandenergy. ln fact, manynew
productiontechnologieshave (at leastin part)
beenspawnedby that awareness, andhavethus
influencedthe designof textile manufacturing
equipmentwithout impairingthe productquality.
Examplesof suchprocessand equipmentchanges
includemodificationsin equipmentfor washing
and drying and for dyeingand printing offabric.
Having exploredthe productionprocessesso as
to generateonly the smallestpossibleamountof
th
th
':J
ecome
waste,
It
en
becomes
necessary
to
select
e
recyclingand treatmentare carefully chosen,then
thereshouldbe little residuerequiring treatment
anddisposaI.Nevertheless, fuis mustbe carried
out,keepingin mind the possibleenvironmental
impactsas weIl as safetyto the workersand
community.
Nowadays,textile products-in particular,
garments-have attaineda significant
environmentalfocus. Garmentsrepresent
protection,but their contactwith the skin can
causeirritation or evendisease,deriving from the
following principalcauses:
.content of metals
.content of organicsubstancesor chemical
elements
)
This beingthe case,the first stepstowards
establishingstandardsfor textileshave beenmade
in Europewith the MST standards,Eco-Tex,
which serveasworldwide referencesand arethe
only premisesof intemationallegislation.
Moreover,newman-made'ecological' fibres
(suchasTencel,Lyocell, Newcell, etc.)have
recentlycorneontothe market. Their
'ecological' characteris derivedpartly from their
manufacture,which doesDotinvolve any
chemicalreaction,and partly from the total
recoveryof the solventsusedin manufacture.
ParaIlei to this, a new subsidiarymarketwith
an immensepotentialis developing,basedon
ecologicaldisposaiofwaste textiles, suchasre-
use,recyclinganddestruction.
;

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook

for Trainers )
Part 3 .Introduction to Current Environmentallssuesand Aspects ofTextile WetProcessing

-,"'",-
 14a~ 111:9
10Currenl Environmenlal Issuesand EnvironmenlalAspects of Textile Wei Processing

8
3A Exercises
,,'. 1 (i) Which of the impacts mentioned earlier are the most important to the textile
"'1' industry overall? Why are they the most important?

(ü) Which are most important to local people? Try to rank them in order:

(iü) Which issuesare addressedin a typical factory permit? How are the others
addressed?

8
(iv) What does the textile associationdo to addressthese issues?

8 "A Textile Wet Processing

~...~- ""
111:10 United Nations Environment Programme' Industry and Environment

.Ii.~ 2 Listedin Table3.4areseveraldifferentgroupsof chemicals/products

generally )
1 LI 1 encounteredin the textile wet processingindustry.Thesegroupsmay be
characterizedin termsof the difficultY in treatment/controlaccordingto the
following categories:
1 Relatively
harmless
2 Moderateta high organic load (in terms of BOD)
3 Difficult ta biodegrade
4 Nat suitablefor biological treatment
Assignthe appropriatepollution categoryagainst eachchemicaVproduct
group:

Table3.4Pollutioncapability
of chemicals
andproducts
usedin thechemical processing
of textiles
.Difficulty of
Chemlcals/Products
treatment
Formaldehyde N-methylolresins .
Chlorinatedsolventsand carriers Cationicretardersand softeners )
Biocides Sequesteringagents
Heavymetal salis

Waalgrease Dyesand brighteners

Polyacrylatesize such as polyvinylalcohol
Polymer finishes

Starchsize Biodegradablesurfactant
Organicacids Reducingagents

Alkalis Mineraiacids .)
Neutra!salis Oxidizingagents " C

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook for Trainers )

Part 3 .Introductionto CurrentEnvironmental
IssuesandAspectsofTextileWetProcessing
 r;: i"'.ÎDI~~~§Qn III:Il
10 Current Environmentallssuesand EnvironmentalAspects of Textile WeiProcessing

8 3.5 Solutions
Question 1 (i) The most important impacts are the depletion and contamination ofwater
resources and the impacts of energy consumption. Issues of contamination of soit,
water and natural ecosystemsare also important from a long term global scale, but are
difficult to isolate and quantify.

(ü) At the locallevel, the order of impacts could be:

.depletion and contamination of water resources
.impacts due to energy consumption (including associated air pollution)
.impacts on the health of facto!)' workers due to air emissions and noise.

(iii) Typically, a facto!)' permit addressesissues such as water and energy

consumption during licensing, wastewaterand air emissions released during permits
from the environment department, worker safety and health issues in terms of noise
insulation, ventilation and work spaceduring safety related and architecturaVdesign
related clearances. Additional issuesare addressedthrough the process of
8 Environmental Impact Assessment,if needed,depending on the size and location of
the textile facto!)'.

Question 2
.Difficulty of
Chemlcals/Products
treatment
Formaldehyde N-methylolresins Not suitable
Chlorinatedsolventsand carriers Cationicretardersand softeners for
Biocides Sequesteringagents bio/ogical
Heavymetal salts treatment

Wooigrease Dyesand brighteners Difficult to

Polyacrylatesile such as polyvinylalcohol biodegrade
Polymerfinishes

Starchsile Biodegradablesurfactant Moderate to

Organicacids Reducingagents high organic
8 load (in
terms of
BOD)
Alkalis Mineraiacids Relatively
Neutralsalts Oxidizingagents harmless

8 ,:'~i~J..;"IG;\1_1i1;"",llifi
A Workbookfor Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

---~""' .."~.""."

8
6 Environmental Aspects
of the Printing and
Finishing processes
8 6.1 Printing
W aShing the fabric after printing results
in coloured effluents which carry the
unfixed print paste with its
ingredients. Some of the hard-to-treat printing
wastes include colour residues,phosphate and
nitrogen-containing chemicals, and non-
biodegradable organic materials such as
surfactants and solvents. These products can
resist effluent treatments, causing subsequent
environmental problems.
Nowadays alkylphenol-ethylene oxide products
are being replaced by eco-friendly surfactants and
white spirit, with water emulsion thickening by
aqueous thickeners in pigment printing. More
serious problems arise in printing with reactive
8 dyes where large quantities ofurea are used to
swell cellulosic fibres, bringing about the
disaggregation of dyes, an increased solubility of
dyes, retarded evaporation of water during
drying, and increased condensationof water on
prints during steaming.
8 A Warkbaak for Trainers : Cleaner
VI:3
Some approachesto eliminate or replace urea in
cellulose printing have been suggested:
.adoption of two-phase flash printing
.complete or partial substitution ofurea with an
alternative chemical Metaxyl FN- T
and
.the mechanical application ofmoisture to
printed fabric prior to entering the steamer.
ln the flash-ageing process, highly reactive dyes
are printed from a paste free of alkali and urea,
and then overpadded with high concentrations of
caustic soda and electrolyte followed by flash-
steaming. However, it is observed that adoption
ofthis technique may Dot solve effluent
problems, becausethe flash-age process involves
use ofhigh salt and high pH liquors.
Moisture spraying systems have been round to be
useful in conditioning viscose fabrics after printing
and drying but before steaming. These systems
eliminate the use of urea totally by printing from a
urea-free print pastefollowed by applying
moisture ofup to 30% prior to steaming.
Production in Textile Wet Processing
VI:4 United Nations Environment Programme' Industryand Environment

6.2 Finishing ')

T he finishing process imparts the final aesthetic, chemical and mechanical properties to the fabric as
per the end use requirements. Several fmishing methods have been developed to improve the feel,
drape, antistatic, antisoiling, anti shrinking, anti-crease, water repelling and flame retardancy properties
of the fabric.
The fmishing can be broadly classified into two categories: mechanical fmishing and chemical
fmishing. ln the case of mechanical fmishing, the effect is produced mechanically, while for chemical
finishing, chemicals are used.
The fmishes can be further classified as permanent and nondurable finishes.

T
6.2.1 Resin finishing
he main objectives ofresin fmishing are
to improve dry and wet creaserecovery
and sharp crease retention of the fabric.
This fmish is largely applied to cotton and its
blends with manmade fibres.
There are three main types of resin finishing
treatments:
.anti-crease finishing
.wash and wear finishing
.durable press treatment.
Though the anti-crease finish and wash and
wear finish methods are basically the same,the
difference lies only in the type and level of crease
recovery. ln anti-crease finishing, a dry-crease
recovery of about 230 (warp and weft) is
regardedas satisfactory. However, in wash and
wear fabrics, it is DOtonly the dry creaserecovery
which is important but also the wet crease
recovery. Dry and wet crease recovery of about
240 (warp and weft) each cao be considered as
satisfactory for wash and wear fabrics.
For anti-crease and 'wash and wear' finishing,
two processesare mainly used: pad-dry-cure and
wet cross linking. ln the case of the pad-dry-cure
method, the fabric is padded with the resin, dried
on the stenter and cured in polymeriser. After
curing, the fabric is washed with soapand soda ash
to remove decomposed products from the cured
fabric, whereas in the wet cross linking process,
the chemical reaction is allowed to take place
between a cross linkingagent and cellulose in an
acidic wet condition. The fabric is padded with
(80% pick-up) a solution containing thermosetting
resin with a highly acidic or alkaline catalyst and
thermoplastic resin. After padding, the fabric is
batched in wet conditions and left to react under
rotation for 10 to 16 bourg, depending on the
amount of catalyst used. ')
Durable press treatment is based on different
requirements. It gives high wrinkle recovery.
However, in certain types of garments (such as
men's suiting and shirts), creasesare introduced
deliberately. The creasesshould last as long as
possible and should survive normallaunderings,
whilst at the same time, the rest of the garment
should be wrinkle free.
Different methods, such as the post-cure
process and garment treatment, are used for
durable press treatment. Ofthese, the post-cure
and pre-cure process are mainly used.
ln the post-cure process,the fabric is
impregnated with a solution containing
thermosetting resin, acidic catalyst, softener etc.,
and dried under conditions which do Dot cause a
complete reaction between the cotton and the )
cross-linking agent. At this stage,the fabric is said
to be 'sensitised'. Garments are stitched from the
'sensitised fabric, lightly ironed to their proper
shape,and then cured in a garment curing aven. ln
the pre-cure process, however, after the usual pad-
dry-cure afterwash technique, the garment is
manufactured from the crease resistant fabric. The
creasesare then heat-processed after local
application of a small amounts of cross-linking
agent, together with an acidic solution and an
acidic catalyst. ln the durable press treatment to
cotton fabrics, the combination ofhigh resin
content and prolonged curing at high temperatures
causessevere strength losses and reduces abrasion
resistance below acceptable limits.

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbookfor Trainers .)

Part 6 .Environmental Aspectsa/the Printing and Finishing Processes

~
 P.~:
8 6.2.2 Anti-shrinkfinishing
T he main objective of ibis fmish is to overcome
the problem of shrinkage of cotton and
cotton-blended fabric during washing. The process
was originally patented and treated fabric was
known as 'Sanforised' fabric. The cloth is
6.2.3 Stenterfinishing
T he main function of the stenter is to impart
dimensional stability to the fabric. Fabric
structure is stabilized by controlling the
longitudinal and transverse tension and heat
setting the fabric in tension. Length is controlled
by positive overfeeding, whereas width is
controlled by mounting the fabric on parallel
8 running chains. Stentering is a critical process,
and determines the dimension stability of the
fabric and shrinkage during use.
These machines normally fUn at around
0-150m/min., depending on the type of machine,
the process used, and the fabric. Overfeeding can
be carried out between -15% and +60%. Heat
setting is clone in a long closed chamber, where
the fabric is dried at a high temperature by means
of hot air.
Amongst the different products used in the
finishing of textiles, the most eco-friendly products
are formaldehyde-based cross-linking agents
which are applied to cellulosic textiles to impart
crease-resistanceand dimensional stability.
} During their application, the evolution offree
formaldehyde can arise due to unreacted
8 formaldehyde in the product, liberation of
formaldehyde during the cross-linking reaction,
and slow generation offormaldehyde during the
storage ofresin-finished fabrics and garments.
Various countries have prescribed tolerance limits
for free formaldehyde, depending on the end use of
the treated fabrics and garments. The presenceof
formaldehyde in the atmosphere and in wastewater
streams is considered as highly objectionable.
Two different approacheshave been adopted to
minimize the problems connected with free
formaldehyde in textile wet processing:
.the development offormaldehyde-free cross-
linking agents for cellulosic textiles and
formaldehyde-free dye-fixing agents
8 A Warkbaakfor Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing
VI:5
mechanically shrunk between a drum and a rubber
belt. The sanforising machine consists of an entry
roll, a cloth damping unit, a small clip stenter to
adjust the width of the fabric, a cloth shrinking
unit, and a felt palmer unit to impart the felt finish.
.the use offormaldehyde scavengersduring
application and storage of resin fmished goods.
A wide variety of products is used in textile
finishing, depending on the characteristics to be
imparted to the consultant fabric. Most ofthese
products are either polymeric in nature or
anionic, cationic or non-ionic compounds. ln
several cases,catalysts are used along with these
products to bring about a chemical reaction
between them and the fibre substanceto make
them more durable during use. Precise
information is DOtreadily available regarding
biodegradability and toxicity of these products; it
is therefore difficult to evaluate their impact on
receiving streams.
ln order to overcome the problems connected
with non-ecofriendly products used in the chemical
finishing of textiles, researchis DOWconcentrated
in the mechanical finishing of textiles whereby
desired properties -namely softness, stiffness,
bulk, drape, smoothness,handle etc. -can be
imparted to textiles by changing the morphology or
surface characteristics of the fabrics by mechanical
means. ln turn, this completely obviates the use of
chemical products, thereby reducing considerably
the problems oftoxicity and stream pollution.
Vacuum extraction bas been utilized in many
capacities. The technology bas been used for lint
removal, water removal, chemical finishing,
dyeing, washing, and removal and recovery of
chemicals. Vacuum extraction lint removal
systems remove lint from fabric prior to printing,
eliminating a potential unprinted spot where lint
is attached to the fabric. ln addition, by removing
the lint prior to the printing process, lint does DOt
become attachedto the printing screen, thereby
resulting in repeatedunprinted spots along the
length of the printed fabric. By removing lint
before the fabric is printed, the quality,
C"," .,.
VI:6 United Nations EnvironmentProgramme' Industry
andEnvironment

consistency,and appearance of the printedfabric
is improved.
One of the most commonand simplestusesof
vacuumextractionis for waterremovalprior to
drying. Moisture removalbeforedrying saves
energyin the drying process,increases
productionspeedby decreasingthe overalldrying
time, and assistsin washingthe fabric.
ln wet processing,it is critical thatthe fabric
basthe correctmoisturelevelto preventbath
dilution from fabric which is too wet. Vacuum
contrai is crucialto maintainconsistentextraction
ratesfor evenchemicalapplication.By applying
reactivechemicalson wet fabric asopposedto
dry fabric, savingsare not only realized
chemically,but drying is eliminated.Theperiod
of retum on investmentis extremelyshort.
Utilizing vacuumextractiontechnologyin
washing significantlyincreasesthe contaminant
removalfrom fabric comparedto waterremoval
}
usinga squeezeroll. Vacuumextraction
equipmentis spaceefficient,tan be addedto
existing systems,andrequiresrelatively low
capitaloutlay.
Applicationsofthese systemsinclude water
removalprior to drying fabric and chemical
application,and asa meansof improving the
washingprocess.Someof the benefitsofremoving
waterprior to the drying of fabric include
increaseddrying andprocessspeed,reduced
energyrequirementsfor drying, a reductionoflint
accumulationon rails and dry cans,and
eliminationof a drying processfor wet-on-wet
chemicalfmishing. Waterremovalbefore chemical
applicationremovesfabric contaminantsand
assuresuniform wet pick-up prior to chemical
application.The washingprocessis improved by
vacuumingout, not squeezingin, contaminants, )
andallows controlledcounterflowand filtering of
waterin the washline.

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook

for Trainers j
Part 6. EnvironmentalAspects ofthe Printing and Finishing Processes

~,- ..
 liai VI:7

8 6.3 Printing and linishing pollution loads

Table 6.1 Pollutionloadsfor printingandfinishingoperations(50/50polyester/cotton)

Process pH BOD TDS

kgper 1000kgofproduct
Printing
Pigment(wovengoods) 6-8 1.26 5.0 0.13 2.5
8 Pigment(knotgoods) 6-8 1.26 5.0 0.13 2.5
Vatdye (wovengoods) 10.0 21.5 86 25 34
Vatdye (knit goods) 10.0 21.5 86 25 35
Finishing
Resinfinishing 6-8 22
(woven goods)
Resinfinishingflat curing 6-8 6.32 25 12 17.3
(wovengoods)

8 A Warkbaakfor Trainers: Cleaner

.",," _.
VI:8 United Nations EnvironmentProgramme' Industry
andEnviranment

BA Exercises )

.,~.m~
" 1& 1 processes?
Whatarethe localenVlfonmentallmpllcatlons?

)
2 Whatarethe environmentalproblemsofusing:
[a] kerosenein pigmentprinting?

[b] ureain the printing paste?

)
..'

[c] formaldehydein finishing?

, ..
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Warkbaak for Trainers )
Part 6 .Environmental Aspects ofthe Printing and Finishing Processes

,"CC,,""..
 I~; VI:9

8 6.5 Solutions

Question 2 [a] At elevated temperatures,kerosenecan lead to the release ofhydrocarbons,

which in turn leads to the generation of carcinogenic compounds and affects the health
of workers.
[b] When washed-out or wasted, printing paste containing urea can reach the water
bodies nearby. The escapeof urea into water bodies can lead to an increase in nutrients
promoting the growth of algae and subsequentlyeutrophication.
[ci When on the fabric, free formaldehyde can react with perspiration or
rubbing skin, and can lead to skin diseasesdepending on skin sensitivity
(especially in caseof children).

8 A Warkbaakfor Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

-'.""'AU"'" ""',.
 VIII:1

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UNEF

Part 8
References

8.1 Some background documents on the environment VIII:3

8.2 Audiovisuals vffi:5

) ::;Q!~~
A Workbook for Trainers : Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

-..~,""

8
8.1 Some background
documents on the environment
Saving Our Planet: challenges and hopes [1992]
M.K. Tolba (ExecutiveDirectorof UNEP).
ISBN0412473704.
8 This book analyses the changes that have
occurred in the environment in the past two
decades. It focuses not only on the state of the
environment, but also on the interactions between
development activities and the environment. It
highlights the main responsessince 1972to
protect the environment.
Published by: Chapman & Hall,
2-6 Boundary Row, London SEI 8HN, UK.
Environmental Data Report 1993.1994[1993]
United NationsEnvironmentProgramme.
ISBN 0 63119043O.
This report is updated biennially and provides
the best available data and information on a wide
range of environmental topics, including
pollution, health, natural resources, population
and settlements, energy, wastes and disasters.
8 Published by: Blackwell Publishers,
108 Cowley Road, Oxford OX4 IJF, UK.
Chemical Pollution: a global overview [1992]
United NationsEnvironmentProgramme.
This book overviews the origins and impacts of
pollution around the world, caused by selected
chemical pollutants and wastes.
Publishedby: UNEP, Nairobi.
The Earth Summit's Agenda for Change: a plain
language version of Agenda 21 and the other Rio
Agreements [1993]M. Keating,ISBN 2 94007000 8.
This publication is aimed at facilitating access
to the very important material contained in
Agenda 21.
Published by: The Centre for Our Common Future,
52 rue des Paquis, 1201 Geneva, Switzerland.
8 :i
A Workbook for Trainers : Cleaner
VIlI:3
8 References
Beyond the Limits: global collapse or a
sustainable future? [1992]D.H, Meadows;
D.L. Meadows;J. Randers.ISBN 185383131 X.
Using World 3, a computer model, to project
the future, and by varying the basic global policy
assumptions,a range of possible outcomes is
described. It is shown that a sustainable society is
technically and economically feasible, if growth
if material consumption and population are
ceaseddown and there is an increase in the
efficiency of our use of materials and energy.
Published by: Earthscan Publications Ltd.,
120 Pentonville Road, London NI 9JN, UK.
Changing Course: a global business perspective
on developmentand the environment [1992]
S. Schmidheiny.ISBN0262691531.
This book provides an analysis of how the
business community tan adapt and contribute to
the crucial goal of sustainable development,
combining the objectives of environmental
protection and economic growth.
Published by: MassachusettsInstitute of
Technology (MIT) Press,Cambridge,
Massachusetts02142, USA.
Blueprint for Green Management:creating your
company's own environmental action plan [1995]
G. Winter.ISBN 0 07 7090152.
This book is a handbook ofindustrial ecology
with numerous checklists for practical use and a
concrete example of the lntegrated System of
Environmentalist Business Management (the so-
called Winter Model), supported by the
Commission of the European Communities.
Published by: McGraw-Hill Book Company
(UK) Ltd.
cC
Production in Textile Wet Processing
,.."" .c ..,"" .c.."" ""","",,,
VIII:4 United Nations Environment Programme' Industryand Enviranment

Life Cycle Assessment: what it is and how to do it
[1996]UNEPlE
This report is in two parts. The flfSt, Life Cycle
Assessment: what il is, is concemed with the concep
ofLCA, how it is currently practised and how it is
expected to develop. It also places LCA in the
broader perspective of other tools for environmental
analysis such as environmental impact assessment,
risk analysis and technology assessment.
The second part of the volume, Life Cycle )
Assessment: how ta use il, examines the severnl
steps involved in making an LCA in a simplified
but systematic manDer. It illustt-ates the problems
involved and the kind ofresults that tan be
produced by working thrOUgha real LCA that bas
been used to assessthe environmental impact of
different low fat spreads.
Further information: UNEP lE, Paris, France.

,
)

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Warkbaakfor Trainers)

Part 8 .References

~..".. , ~",,","
 jgi~:ill', :~::iBif.iri"~~
VIII:5

8 8.2 Audiovisuals
IChemEhasan internationalreputation
for providing
highquality,effective
safetyandenviron
mentaltrainingsolutionsusingvideo,slide,openleaming
andcomputer-basedtechniques.Wedrawon expertsthroughout industry,
theregulatory
bodies,thelegalprofessionandacademia to ensurethatour
trainingpackages
arebathhighqualityandrelevant.

ENVIRONMENTAL PACKAGES
ENVIRONMENTAL AWARENESS ENVIRONMENTAL AUDITING
PackageEO2Understanding is thekeyto effective PackageEO4Trainees leamhowto makeauditsmore
environmental improvements -bath throughcertified effective.ln clearlydefinedsections, thepackage explains
standards andeffectivepolicyimplementation. Thispackage howto go aboutauditinga site,fromdefiningthescopeand
givesa thoroughgrounding in environmental awareness. The objectives throughon-siteactivities to reporting
andfollow-up
casestudiesGaver:environmentallaw; globalissues; work.Thirteencasestudiesandexercises, supportedbyover
corporate issues;andwasteminimization. 120slides,include:settingupan EMS;auditingfor waste
AQUEOUS EFFLUENTS disposai, duediligenœandeffluence compliance; reporting
Volume 1: awareness and treatment strategies auditfindings;anddiscussion ofphotographs ofbadpractice.
8 PackageEO1Engineers leamhowto assessanddealwith ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT SYSTEMS
effluentproblems; seniormanagement gaina soundtechnical PackageEO51f youalreadyhaveanenvironmental
andlegalgrounding; andoperators learnwhycompliance is management system,thispackage willhelpyougain
important. Sevencasestudiesdemonstrate howeffective commitment fromyourstaff.Ifyouarejustdeveloping a
treatment strategies savemoneywhilstbenefiting the system,notonlywillyoubenefitfromthetraining,butalso
environment.Andthetechnicalguidance covers: benchmarking fromthedetailedcasestudieswillsaveyou
characterisation ofeffluents;treatment strategy; safety;unit time.Andif youhavestillnotdecidedwhichsystemto gofor
operations; androsIs. (ifany),thispackage willhelpyoumakean informed decision.
Volume 2: measurement and monitoring ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT ASSESSMENT
PackageEO13Traineeslearnhowto measure andmonitor PackageEO6Thistrainingpackagegivesyoua thorough
effluents,ensuringcompliance andreducingtreatment costs. grounding in theElAprocessandtechniques. Produced in
AIR EMISSIONS conjunction withtheInstituteofEnvironmental Assessment,
Volume 1: key issues thepackageprovides aneffectivemeansoftrainingail staff
PackageEO3Thispackageprovidescomprehensive concerned withEIAs.
coverageofgenericair pollutionissuesandtechnologies, Thereareninecasestudiesprovided by leadingenvironmental
backedupwithdetailedsections on sourœsandtypesof consultancies. Theseintroduce thepracticalaspectsofthe ElA
emissions, atmospheric chemistry, standards andlegislation processbyexamining projectsinvolving a foodprocessing plant,
(UKandEuropean). a sewagetreatment works,a coastaldefenœscheme,a pipeline
Volume 2: monitoring and control proposai, anail refineryanda powerstation.
PackageEO12Thispackage followsonfromAEVol.1: key WASTEMIN IMllA TION
8 issues,andprovidesdetailedinformation on measurement PackageEO7Approaches in thepackagevaryfromgood
andmonitoring andcontraitechniques, illustrated
with housekeeping to complex techniques suchas lifecycle
comprehensive casestudies.Sections on ambient monitoring, analysis.Thistrainingpackage showshowto go aboutil, from
meteorology andairdispersion modelling helpto providea defininga strategythroughto makingsureit happens.
thoroughgrounding in thetechnicalissuesassociated withair CONTAMINA TED LAND
emissions. PackageEOBTrainees learnwhycontaminated landis
ENERGY MANAGEMENT important, howandwhya company shouldavoid
PackageEO11Energyefficiency affectsthebottomline. contamination, andtheprosandconsofthekeyremediation
Traineeslearnthebasictoolsandtechniques foreffective techniques. Youwillalsolearnhowto usethisknowledge to
energymanagement. gelthe mostoutoftheconsultants youuse.
Fororderformcontact: MarkSmith
SafetyHealthand EnvironmentDepartment.Institution of ChemicalEngineers
165-189RailwayTerrace.Rugby CV21 3HQ,UK
Tel +441788 578214' Fax +441788560833

8 A Warkbaakfor Trainers: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

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 "'cc

1
Appendices
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~

UNEP

Appendices

1 Supporting Documentsfor this Package 3

II List of Training ResourcePackagesavailable from UNEP lE 5
III About UNEP Industry and Environment 7

A Warkbaak for Trainers : Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

 3,
Appendices11

Appendix 1
Supporting Documents for tbis Package

During trials, the following documents were shawn to be of great use in supporting the use ofthis
package. They fOnD an integral part of the package.

8 The TextileIndustry and the Environment [1993]UNEP.

Audit and ReductionManualfor Industrial Emissionsand Wastes[1991]
UNEP / UNIDO.
Energy Efficiency and Climate Change[1991]UNEP/IPIECA.

1
-8 A Warkbaakfor Tra;ners: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing
~

,-_.".~
 5
Appendices

8
Appendix II
List of Training Resource Packages
available trom UNEPlE

T he following training resourcepackageshavebeendevelopedby UNEP lE. They ail use

interactivetraining methodologiesto explainthe subject,andareaimedat educatorswho,
althoughtechnicallyskilled, may DOthavespecializedknowledgein this particulararea.
The packagesareavailablefrom UNEP lE.
Sometrainers' packagesare still underdevelopment,
andusersareencouraged
to assistUNEP to
8 bring theseto a fmal stageof publication.

Due to the costofprinting of the packages(between100and 400 pages),the completeddocuments

areoffered for saleto mostusers.However,a limited numberof draft packagesarefree of chargeto
userspreparedto contributeto their further development
thrOUghreview,field testingandadding
material.Assistancewith translationwould alsobe welcome.

CleanerProduction: a Training Resource exercises.110pages.Price$120. This package

Package[1996] First Edition. Contains
backgroundreading,transparencies,
bibliography,and work exercises.110pages.
Price $120(English,Spanish).This package
caobe usedwith the workbooksbelow.
Trainer's Workbookon CleanerProductionin
Leather Tanning [1996] First Edition. Contains
backgroundreading,casestudies,work
8 exercisesandanswers.120pages.Price$120.
Trainer's Workbookon CleanerProduction in
the Brewing Industry [1996] FirstEdition.
Containsbackgroundreading,casestudies,
work exercisesandanswers.75 pages.
Price$100.
Trainer's Workbookon CleanerProduction in
Textile WetProcessing[August 1995]First
Edition. Containsbackgroundreading,case
studies,work exercises,answers,references.
140pages.Price$120.
Management of Industrial Accident Prevention
and Preparedness:a TrainingResource
Package[1996] First Edition. Contains
backgroundreading,casestudiesand work
alsohelpsto explainthe APELL programme.
Risk ManagementofContaminatedIndustrial
Land: a TrainingResourcePackage[1996]
FirstEdition.Containsbackgroundreading,
casestudiesand work exercises.110pages.
Price$120. English,Spanish.
HazardousWaste,PoliciesandStrategies:a
TrainingManual [December1991]TRIO.
Containsbackgroundreading,casestudies,
work exercises,referencetablesand
bibliography.250 pages.Price$120. English,
French,Spanish.
Landfill of HazardousIndustrial Wastes:a
TrainingResourcePackage[March 1994]
TRI7. Containsbackgroundreading,case
studies,work exercises,referencetablesand
bibliography.315pages.Price$120.
Environmentaland TechnologicalIssues
relatedto Lead-AcidBatteryRecycling:
TrainersWorbook[1996] First Edition.
Containsbackgroundreading,transparencies,
bibliographyandwork exercises.130pages.
Price$120.

8
A Warkbaak
forTrainers
: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing

"_.~."'..".. ,.",
6 United Nations Environment Programme. Industry and Enviranment

Environmental Management ofMining Sites: a Training Manual on Chillers and Refrigerant )

Training Manua/ [1995]UNEP/DDSMS.
Containsbackgroundreading,transparencies,
casestudies,work exercisesandanswers.
200 pages.Price$160.
Environmental ManagementSystems:Training
ResourceKit [1995]UNEP/ICC/FIDIC.
Containsbackgroundreading,transparencies,
casestudies,work exercises,bibliography.
492 pages.Price$190.
Aerosol ConversionTechnologyHandbook [1994]
Price FF225/us$45for developedcountries.
Management[1994]Price FF425/us$85for
developedcountries.
Training Manual on GoodPractices in
Refrigeration [1994]PriceFF400/us$80for
developedcountries.
EnvironmentalImpactAssessment:a training
resourcemanual[1996]Preliminaryversion.
Availablefrom UNEP Environmentand
EconomicsDepartment,UNEP, Nairobi.

'1
)

Enquiries UNEP lE
Tour Mirabeau
39-43 quaiAndré Citroën
75739Paris Cedex15
France
Tel " 33 (1) 44 37 1450
Fax 33 (1) 44 37 1474
Emai/ " unepie@unep.fr
http://www.unepie.org/home.htmi

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Warkbaak

for Trainers ?
Appendices
 , 7

Appendices

8
Appendix III
About UNEPIndustrv and Environment

I ndustry and Environment was establishedby UNEP in 1975 to bring

industry and government together to promote environmentally sound
industrial development.

8 UNEP lE is locatedin Parisand its goalsareto: the transferof infonnationandthe sharingof

1 encouragethe incorporationof environmental
criteria in industrialand developmentplans;
2 facilitate the irnplementationof proceduresand
principles for the protectionof the environment;
3 promotethe use of safeandcleantechnologies;
4 stimu1atethe exchangeof infonnationand
experiencethroUghouttheworld.
UNEP lE providesaccessto practical
infonnationanddevelopsco-operativeon-site
actionand infonnationexchangebackedby
regularfoIlow-up andassessment. To promote
knowledgeand experience,UNEP lE bas
developedthreecomplementarytools:
.technical reviewsandguidelines;
.Industry andEnvironment:a quarterlyreview;
.a technica1query-response service.
ln keepingwith its emphasisontechnica1
cooperation,UNEP lE faci1itatestechnology
transferandthe irnp1ementation of practicesto
safeguardthe environmentthroughpromoting
awareness and interaction,training anddiagnostic
studies.

Some relevant UNEP lE publications

Referta Appendix II for trainers.packages.For completelist, refer ta publicationscatalogue.
Industry and Environment [quarterly]dealswith
8 issuesrelevantto industrialdevelopment,such
as auditing,wastemanagement, industry-
specific problems,and environmentalnews.
GovernmentStrategiesand Policiesfor Cleaner
Production [1994]32pp.
CleanerProduction WorldwideVol. 1and Il
[1995]48pp.
Life CycleAssessment:what it is and how to do
it [1996]92pp.
Audit and Reduction ofIndustrial Emissions
and Wastes:TechnicalReportNo. 7 [1991]
UNEP/UNIDO. 127pp.
Monitoring of Industrial Emissionsand Wastes:
TechnicalReportNo. 27 [1996]
UNEP/UNIDO. 188pp.
Energy, EfflciencyandClimate Change[1991]
UNEP/IPIECA.95pp.
Hazard Identification and Evaluation in a Local
Community: TechnicalReportNo. 12 [1992]
86pp.
Health Aspectsof ChemicalAccidents:
guidanceon chemicalaccidentawareness,
preparednessand response for health
professionalsand emergencyresponders
TechnicalReportNo. 19 [1994] A joint
IPCS/OECD/UNEP/WHO publication: OECD
EnvironmentMonographNo. 81. 47pp.
EnvironmentalAspects ofIndustrial Wood
Preservation:a technicalguide Technical
ReportNo.20 [1994] IO5pp.
The TextileIndustry and the Environment
TechnicalReportNo. 16 [1994] 120pp.

8 A Warkbaak
for Trainers
: Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing
8 United Nations Environment Programme olndustry and Enviranment

Environmental Managementin the Brewing CompanyEnvironmentalReporting Technical ')

Industry TechnicalReportNo.33 [1995] 120pps.
Storage of HazardousMaterials Technical
ReportNo. 3 [1990]
CompaniesOrganizationand Public
Communicationon EnvironmentalIssues
TechnicalReportNo. 6 [1991]130pp.
ReportNo. 24 [1994] 118pp.
From Regulationsto Industry Compliance:
Building Institutional Capabilities Technical
ReportNo. 11 [1992]62pp.

Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Warkbaak for Tra;ners

Appendices

""u","",'
 i

8
Evaluation Form
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing
A s part of the continuingreviewofthis trainerspackage,we would appreciateyour cooperationin
answeringthe following questions.Pleaseretumthe completedevaluationform to:

UNEP lE, Tour Mirabeau, 39-43quai André Citro~n, 75739Paris Cedex15, France
Fax 33 (1) 44371474.

1 Do you have any suggestions for improvement of the trainers package? How could we
improve its readability, contents, practical use, and so on?

2 How was the package useful in preparing your own training activity?

8 3 Did the background infonnation and transparencyset provide you with enough
infonnation? What was missing?

continued
...

8 A Workbook
for Trainers
: CleanerProduction in Textile Wet Processlng

,'""' " -~'""."

ü United Nations Environment Programme olndustry and Environment

4 What resource infonnation was useful to you? What else should be included? )

5 What are your experiences with the exercises?What worked, and what didn 't?

6 Do you have training material which could be incorporated into this workbook?

7 What additional topics related to cleaner production would you want to be included in the
final version of this workbook? )

Thankyoufor taking therime to completethis evaluationform.Pleasereturn the completedformto

UNEP lE, Tour Mirabeau,39-43 quai André Citroën, 75739Paris Cedex15,France.

)
Cleaner Production in Textile Wet Processing : A Workbook for Trainers