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Mold Making: Two Part Silicone Mold

by bofthem on November 19, 2007

Table of Contents

Mold Making: Two Part Silicone Mold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Mold Making: Two Part Silicone Mold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Select, clean, and add sprue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2: Clay up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 3: Inscribe a key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 4: Mix and pour your silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 5: Walk away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 6: Molding: Complete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 7: FAQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
 Author:bofthem HAR.MS
I'm M@. If you know Prototype This, TechShop, The Best of Instructables, Show Me How, or AVPII: Requiem, you've seen some of my work and the cool
stuff I've been involved in. I build and design and make and think and do and teach. I'm sure I'd like to meet you. We could talk about making things. We
could have pie.

Twitter: gianteye
Flickr: gianteye
Tumblr: gianteye
Youtube: porrophagus

Intro: Mold Making: Two Part Silicone Mold

*UPDATE* I'm going to include some FAQ's to answer some of the questions I've received. { FAQ }

This tutorial will demonstrate how to reliably reproduce cast objects using a two part silicone mold. This technique, when skillfully applied, can have incredible resolution,
effectively cast very complex shapes, and can yield parts that need little cleanup. This type of mold is most useful for parts that are fairly small, and therefore will not
consume a massive amount of silicone to cast. To save material on large castings, techniques such as glove molding and matrix molding are often applied.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
Step 1: Select, clean, and add sprue
I chose a figurine from a comic shop as my demo to mold. This will be what is called the master. It has a fair amount of surface detail, and some small parts that, although
tricky, are faithfully reproduced in the final casting.

Begin by inspecting, cleaning, and securing your model. I glued down the small parts that my figurine came with which originally snapped together. I took a cotton swab
and got out all the grit and dust from every tiny crevice. Remember that everything you see on your part will be cast into the mold, even down to fingerprints. You will not
be able to correct these mistakes once the part is cast, so take the time to do it right.

You will need to create a sprue or sprues on your part. These will become funnel shaped holes in the mold. You need them so you can get your casting material into the
mold so don't forget to put them in. I usually use the tops to bottles or machine my own, but you can make most any tube or funnel shaped object work. If you'd like, you
can even make your sprue out of clay. I usually smooth the seam in between the sprue and the master as to not catch bubbles on the very bottom of the part. Try to think
ahead when you're molding a part, if something looks like it will trap bubbles, try to orient things to avoid it. Your goal is to create a mold that will produce the best quality
parts with the least amount of work and fiddling.

Image Notes
1. The end of a bottle, cut off and used as a sprue.

Step 2: Clay up
Once you've prepped your part for the show, it's time to lay up the first half of the mold. Draw a line that defines the very outermost edge of its curved surfaces. You want
one continuous seam tangent to a majority of the curves on your part. The goal is to evenly split the part in the mold so it comes out easily without damaging anything.
Also, molding this way will make the seam line easier to clean in your final part.

Find or construct a border for the part. You want it to be some sealed volume that at least extends an inch above the part, and an inch to the sides in all directions. I glued
the top of a paper mixing bucket to a masonite panel with hot glue. Lay your part in this container securely with some clay. The clay is going to have a tendency to stick to
your part, and will need to be cleaned when you begin the second half of the mold, so do yourself a favor and coat the part in a spray release, or wrap it in clingfilm and
cut the film away at your mold line. Cleaning clay off your part will most likely result in it pulling up out of the mold before you begin the second half, which will mean that
you'll get some silicone dribbling in between the part and the mold and screwing up your texture. Begin making a rough border around the part with clay, coming up to the
line you drew earlier. Work the clay layer until it is smooth and even around the part. Leaving a texture to the clay will only make the mold harder to pull apart.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
Step 3: Inscribe a key
For most organically shaped parts like action figures or prosthetics, your mold will fit together in a very specific way. The seam line that these organic shapes have just
naturally locks together in one position. For more geometric or mechanical parts like legos or usb drives, your mold seam may be nearly flat, and therefore difficult to align
or register. To make sure the mold goes together the same way each time, you add a seam line or a key to the mold. I prefer to make a quarter inch trench along the
border of the part, not only to fit it together well each time but to also prevent material from leaking out when I'm casting the final parts.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
Step 4: Mix and pour your silicone
Silicone is a great molding material because of its natural tendency to not stick to things. This makes it ideal for casting a wide variety of things from plastics to plaster.
However, it does love to stick to itself. If you don't make sure the mold is properly sealed in between castings, you'll find yourself with a big block of silicone with an action
figure prize inside. I'm serious.

I recommend you use a digital scale to measure out your materials. I try to gauge the volume of my mold by some simple geometry. Always mix a little more than you
think the mold will actually take to fill. It's very difficult to mix up a new batch of material on the fly when this happens. Also, before casting, inspect your entire mold to
make sure that there are no possible holes or leaks. Even a tiny pinhole leak in your mold could mean you find a pool of cured silicone on your rug and a lightly silicone
glazed part in your mold when you come back to check it the next morning.

Mix as per the manufacturer's instructions, and pour in a high, thin, even stream to eliminate air bubbles.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
Step 5: Walk away
I have a tendency to fiddle with the mold, hoping to improve things as it cures. This doesn't often work to my advantage. The more fiddling you do, the more chance you
have at screwing things up. What you should do is vibrate the table the mold is on to dislodge bubbles for a few minutes, and then go somewhere and read a nice book.
You should let the mold do it's thing. When the silicone is cured (this will vary depending on the manufacturer) come back and take another look.

If all goes well, you should be able to simply flip the part over, take off the clay, and pour the second half. For me, that meant cutting the bottom off of the mold container
(the paper mixing bucket) and turning the whole thing over. Remember to apply a generous coat of sealant. I use Smooth-on SuperSeal spray. It requires two thorough
coats spaced twenty minutes apart. Check for bubbles in your sealant, smooth them out with a soft brush if there are any.

Mix and pour again.

Step 6: Molding: Complete

After the second silicone piece has cured, you're done with the mold. You can take your master out and inspect the mold. Now you're ready to clap it back together and
cast your final parts. I usually hold molds together with rubber bands wrapped tightly enough around the mold to keep it together without distorting it. I'll use a bucket or
something similar to hold it in the right position for casting.

This kind of mold is perfect for a wide range of liquid casting agents, from hot wax, to plastics, to resins, to plaster. Remember a few key factors:

Each molding material has a different cure time, viscosity, and surface tension. Some of these materials are prone to capturing bubbles in the mold. To prevent
this, make sure to read up on how to prep the mold, whether it's adding talc, or a release agent, to get the best quality casting you can.
Learn what the mold tends to do, and make procedures to correct the errors. I found that this mold tended to catch bubbles in the little spheres that stick out from
the base. I found that by shaking the mold, and poking at the bubbles with a small rod, I could get a flawless casting.
You can make multiples of this mold by repeating step five over and over again. Professionals tend to make a plastic or silicone copy of their part just for this
purpose, so they can duplicate as many molds as necessary without damaging the master.
Recycle your scrap silicone. Since silicone is so eager to stick to silicone, it makes sense to extend your materials by mixing in chunks of cured scrap silicone with
large castings. It saves a lot of material. You can also cast excess silicone into sheets in a loaf pan or muffin tins to use as mixing boards. They make great
palettes as paint and epoxy won't stick to them.

For video tutorials on mold making, visit Freeman Mold Making and Casting Supply . There is a great tutorial on a more complex molding technique on ConceptArt . You
can also check smooth-on.com for information on various molding materials and suppliers.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
Step 7: FAQ
*UPDATE* I'm going to include some FAQ's to answer some of the questions I've received.

Q: What resin did you use? What sealant did you use to prevent it from sticking to the mold?
A: I had decent luck using crystal clear spray varnish as a sealant. I would recommend you use mold soap or SuperSeal to coat the mold. Spraying a coat
of PVA in the mold before casting will also provide a solid seal. For casting parts out of your mold, silicone usually doesn't need any release or sealant, but
the particular resin I was using met some cure inhibition against the RTV. You can find a non polyester clear casting resin and it will probably cast fine
without needing any release or sealant.
Q: Is the mold reusable?
A: The mold is completely reusable. Cured silicone has an average shelf life of five years and will hold up to thousands of castings. It will break down
depending on what material you use, but that's still in hundreds of castings with the most abusive materials. You'll know when the mold's at the end of its
life when it's not flexible and begins to yellow.
Q: Where can you get silicone and other molding materials? How much will they cost?
A: Good silicones can go for $100/gallon and more. You're going to pay more per oz by buying smaller batches, but it's easier to live with the expense.
The material I used comes in a 2 pint batch at $22 { manufacturer's site }. The polyester resin I used was CastinCraft clear resin, and cost $15/pint. You
can pick this and the colorants I used up at most craft stores. I also used SmoothCast for the white model you see below and C-1515 for the translucent
model. Each of these are about $15/pint as well. For more resources, you can check Smooth On, Freeman Casting Supply, and MicroMark.
Q: Silicone is too expensive. I heard you can use molding rubber. How is it used?
A: Actually, if you're using a molding rubber, your process is a little different. When you take out your original part, and lay it up in clay. Before you pour
your rubber over you'll need to coat it in a molding sealant and then a release. I recommend you use something like PVA, liquid floor polish wax (wax is
both a seal and a release), SuperSeal, or Mold Soap. SuperSeal is pretty easy to find, and usually comes in a spray bottle. Personally, I love the mold
wax. You'll want to clean up everything with a soft brush if you see any streaks. Then you apply a release like EZrelease, or Universal Mold Release. After
doing all that, you can pour up your rubber. Wait for it to cure, flip the mold, clean out the clay, repeat the seal/release process and pour again. Once your
mold cures, you remove the piece, apply a coat of seal to the mold, and then a coat of release (this is why I prefer silicone, because you don't have to
fiddle with releases.) After everything is sealed and released, you should be ok to cast. If everything's done right, you should be able to produce some nice
shiny pieces. Allow the plastic to cure overnight and wake up to some brand new toys.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
Related Instructables

Mold Making - Simple Silicone Using Silicone How to make a Moldmaking

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Complex Parts (no parting line) Make Molds by Making: Glove ring- including a Silicone Rubber
(with a parting (video) by Lonecoon Molds and glowing (video) by
line) (video) by freemanmfg Mother Molds by version! by freemanmfg
freemanmfg bofthem Honus

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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 69 comments

bluebel95 says: Mar 2, 2011. 6:29 AM REPLY

Can I use it to make cakes or gummy candies? :)

scottouradnik says: Feb 3, 2011. 6:57 PM REPLY

I'm looking to make soap molds and need a good supplier for the silicone, any suggestions?

g0nn el tren says: Jun 23, 2010. 11:39 AM REPLY

how can i mold this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/14455307@N07/3804998669/in/set-72157618890095073/ i want it empty from inside

n0ukf says: Nov 24, 2008. 7:12 PM REPLY

Do you know of any casting materials that cure near crystal clear (like for lenses, etc)?

Emphantasy says: Dec 1, 2009. 6:18 PM REPLY

I've used a lot of water clear urethanes from various companies- what they all have in common is that you'll need to use platinum-based RTV. Tin
based silicone has trace amounts of alcohol in it, which soft durometer urethanes/clears don't get along with. Of course, you can also heat a tin mold or
let it age naturally to get rid of the alcohol, but that takes time.

stageright2 says: Apr 7, 2010. 1:51 PM REPLY

How long is the aging process and what temp. and length would would you need to bake it for. thanks ASAP

Emphantasy says: Apr 7, 2010. 3:18 PM REPLY

It depends a lot on the thickness of the mold...the thicker it is, the longer it takes to bake out the alcohol. If the mold is 1/2 in thick, I'd
guesstimate 90 degree F. for about 2 days. I wouldn't go over 100 degrees F, because increasing the temp, while perhaps shortening the time
needed, might also damage your mold. Of course, this is done with the silicone fully cured, the master removed, and the mold laid out in the
oven opened up, if possible. Let the mold cool to room temp. before casting the urethane, and do a test shot if possible on the outside of the
mold to check if the alcohol is gone before trying it in the cavity. If the test shot is still tacky, bake some more.

zootboy says: Dec 7, 2008. 8:23 AM REPLY

http://www.mrfiberglass.com/clear_casting_resins.html http://www.mrfiberglass.com/clear_casting_resins.html

socalcovey says: Mar 23, 2010. 11:30 AM REPLY

Hi, I was wondering if you could point out the sprues in this picture. Im new at this and I want to follow your recipe to the T. Thank you.

james oakley says: Feb 5, 2010. 7:38 PM REPLY

I am looking for a business partner to help design and patent a idea I have. Setting up a mold design is key. This product also uses recycled plastic and
wood. I have done some research on my idea and no one has come up with this idea as of yet.

This would be a great product to sale on HSN or QVC. This product would repeat it's sales yearly. Indefinitely!

If interested, contact me (James) oakleyrest@yahoo.com

amoceuazul says: Feb 12, 2009. 11:02 AM

(removed by author or community request)

Emphantasy says: Dec 1, 2009. 6:15 PM REPLY

Vacuum casting could also help- do you have enough gates/vents?

_soapy_ says: Mar 19, 2009. 1:47 PM REPLY

What mould material are you pouring the wax in to? If it is too cold, like a metal mould would be, the wax will chill and stick on contact. You might need to
warm the mould up, pour the cast, then let the whole thing cool. Also, you should have an obvious path for the air to vent upwards from all the high points
that will trap air, and you should pour down one sprue until you see the material at the other sprue(s) - if this isn't happening, something is blocking them.
If they are too narrow, then the wax will set as it cools onto the mould, and that could well be your problem.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
 Rufo says: Feb 19, 2009. 11:42 AM REPLY
I have just made a rather complex mold of a sculpture I made in clay, the shell I made with plaster and it looked great, till I opened it and notice that the
silicone was taky and stiky at some places... maybe the mixing went wrong is there something I can do, I can't afford to loose this mold... thanks

Emphantasy says: Dec 1, 2009. 6:15 PM REPLY

It also depends on what type of RTV silicone you used, tin or platinum. Yes, products containing sulfur will inhibit platinum-based RTV, but I've yet to
have that problem with tin, which cures against most anything.

bofthem says: Feb 19, 2009. 3:00 PM REPLY

If your clay was plasticine, clasteline, or any other clay that contains sulfur you're pretty much screwed. The silicone has some cure inhibition when in
contact with sulfurous material, meaning that it will only harden when it's removed from the clay and let rest with the mold open for anywhere from a few
days to a few weeks. In the meantime, unfortunately, the mold will warp a little until everything cures. Depending on your model, this might not be an
absolute disaster. There's a chance the silicone wasn't fully mixed, but that just puts you in the same situation. The only thing you can do to speed up the
process is heat the silicone on a heating blanket or next to a radiator to get the catalyst to react faster. There's always a chance it just won't cure at all.

banditsrubyangel says: Aug 23, 2009. 5:32 PM REPLY

I have a pair of detailed flexible plastic wings that are curved. The wingspan is about 8 inches. Would this method work for them?

Emphantasy says: Dec 1, 2009. 6:12 PM REPLY

Hi. If your master is really detailed, you might want to think about vacuum casting it- this process helps a lot with fine details.

annie33 says: Aug 24, 2009. 1:04 AM REPLY

hello,this is Annie,you can contact with me more information about silicone rubber for making molds,annie7301011@live.cn.

Hernando says: Sep 16, 2010. 6:45 AM REPLY

I would like to know about your offer " information about silicone rubber for making molds"

Hernando Delgado Hdelgado2@verizon.net

jujibelly says: Sep 3, 2009. 4:19 AM REPLY

Is the silicone used food grade? If not is it possible to get food grade silicon and apply the same process to make a mould? I ask because I'm thinking of
making some custom jello moulds.

Emphantasy says: Dec 1, 2009. 6:10 PM REPLY

Hi jujibelly. There is food grade silicone, but it can be a lot more expensive. You also have to use only food grade releases, etc.

AnarchistAsian says: Jan 1, 2009. 9:51 PM REPLY

is it possible to mold on the outside and inside?
the kind of stuff you'd usually have to machine?

_soapy_ says: Mar 19, 2009. 1:49 PM REPLY

You could, but I'm not sure what you mean by casting inside and outside? You can have a mould inside the cast, then remove the cast from it, or melt it
out (if wax) leaving a void inside the cast. Combining both an internal and external cast at the same time would be tricky, I think.

AnarchistAsian says: Mar 29, 2009. 11:54 AM REPLY

well i wanted to make a plastic "gun" slide for a coil gun

WhiteTigerTails says: Sep 14, 2009. 5:09 AM REPLY

Mould each side separately, then glue together.

AnarchistAsian says: Sep 18, 2009. 7:46 PM REPLY

yeah, of course, but it's not a good way to get a strong slide from a mold...

lambologo says: Aug 30, 2009. 7:57 AM REPLY

could this hold hot plastic? im trying to make a air soft bb mold so that i can put meatle in them and be able to pick them up with a magnet

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
 WhiteTigerTails says: Sep 14, 2009. 5:07 AM REPLY
ER... plastic, I mean...

WhiteTigerTails says: Sep 14, 2009. 5:07 AM REPLY

I'm sure, if you google around, you can find a plaster that can hold molten wax.

!Andrew_Modder! says: Nov 19, 2007. 6:24 PM REPLY

:-D finally! you dont know how long iv been wateing to cast stuff in silicon! But one question, where do you get it, and how expensive is it to make how much?
And is there a site that i can get it from? THX awesome instructable!

annie33 says: Aug 24, 2009. 12:55 AM REPLY

hello,this is Annie,have you got your silicone?I can provide silicone rubber of many kinds at a competitive price!Email me annie7301011@live.cn

nnygamer says: Nov 19, 2007. 7:41 PM REPLY

Places like http://www.smoothon.com/ and http://www.micromark.com/ have kits with the materials you need to cast with.

gdawg says: Nov 19, 2007. 7:34 PM REPLY

I just got a novice's molding/casting kit from SmoothOn.com (non-disclamer: I have no affilation with them). They have a lot of good info about molding.

knexsuperbuilderfreak says: Aug 5, 2009. 7:00 PM REPLY

will this method work with knex?

mrpickles2 says: Jul 30, 2009. 4:34 AM REPLY

Just added a comment to the concrete lego instructable about using a vibrator to eliminate voids. It would work well with this kind of molding as well. Also my
dad makes jewelry and he uses some kind of solution to coat mold and parts before using to keep bubbles from forming on the parts. I'm not sure what it is
tho.

ramses says: Jul 21, 2008. 12:56 PM REPLY

I only wish you could cast aluminum in it...

frollard says: Oct 26, 2008. 9:31 PM REPLY

You can cast many low-melt alloys into silicone - it can withstand many hundred degrees celcius; it can do pewter, or lead no problem. Not sure about
aluminium.

_soapy_ says: Mar 19, 2009. 1:52 PM REPLY

Seriously watch out for moisture and water if casting aluminium. Ensure the mould is totally dry, and above 100 C, before a steam explosion ruins
your day. Silicone won't take that heat from liquid aluminium, though.

frollard says: Mar 19, 2009. 2:24 PM REPLY

Silicone should work with low-melt alloys; tin, lead, pewter...not sure about aluminium... it can handle temps uip to 588Kelvin (600F) aluminium
melts at ~933Kelvin - definitely not a good plan. Good thought on the steam/water. Dry the mold, and pour slowly :D

deathpanda says: Mar 21, 2009. 5:24 AM REPLY

you could however take this mold pour melted wax in to it and make a wax master for lost wax casting. all you would have to do is add vents
and set it in casting sand

frollard says: Mar 21, 2009. 7:01 PM REPLY

Indeed - just wouldn't work for single-step processing. Damn I hate living in an apartment - i want so much to do so many...garage-y
things.

Helos says: Apr 2, 2009. 8:28 AM REPLY

I agree with you completely. I didn't realize until I moved into my own place just how necessary a yard and garage are. I also totally
miss having a BBQ... Oh well, just plans for the future!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/
 deathpanda says: Mar 22, 2009. 11:22 AM REPLY
yea im kinda in the same position. i just made a vent hood and workbench in my place. not the safest idea but it works. i do small
castings in the house.

casey321b says: Sep 6, 2008. 4:50 PM REPLY

that would be sweet

gripes says: Mar 14, 2008. 12:50 AM REPLY

i was wondering if you can use the mold with wax? will it withstand the temperature of melted liquid wax? i planned on making some urban toy candles!

_soapy_ says: Mar 19, 2009. 1:54 PM REPLY

Silicone will easily take the heat from wax.

teapotking says: Mar 28, 2008. 2:19 PM REPLY

will this work for something really small, like plastic animals?

_soapy_ says: Mar 19, 2009. 1:54 PM REPLY

Yes to the small size, but you'll have troubles with the legs unless you do a three part mould, as there is no line of symmetry without overhangs.

jmanjman says: Mar 13, 2009. 7:03 AM REPLY

That's cool. Do you think there's a way to make the inside hallow.

view all 69 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/Two-Part-Silicone-Casting/