Professional Documents
Culture Documents
on a Sleigh Bed
Curved slats and simple carving
make this bed stand out from the crowd
B Y C H A R L E S S H A C K L E T O N
I n 1776, my great-great-great-grand-
father (great-grandfather of the Ant-
arctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton)
started the Anna Liffey flour mill on the
banks of the river Liffey near dublin, Ire-
X-shaped back slats, these chairs were a
wonderful combination of simplicity and
sophistication. I thought that with a few
changes their classic design could translate
into more contemporary pieces.
land. After I emigrated to Vermont in 1981 The chair I designed was very popular
and started a handmade furniture business, with customers, who requested other piec- A design with Irish ancestry. The X-
I enjoyed returning to visit relatives who es like it, spawning a family of furniture shaped slats were inspired by old chairs
still lived in the old mill house. In their din- I call the Anna Liffey range. This bed is Shackleton found in Ireland. He up-
ing room, I spotted some beautiful chairs. a member of that group. Besides the X dated the look and incorporated it into
beds, tables, and chairs like this one.
known as Irish fork-backs because of their shapes, the bed has another subtle design
76 FINE woodwoRkINg photos, except where noted: Mark Schofield; this page: Michael pekovich
COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
element, simple hand-carved curls on the
ends of the legs, a whimsical trademark
of my work. Making the bed requires a
Legs take shape
nice combination of machine work and Lay out the legs. Use plywood
handwork. To simplify the steps, Ill dem- templates to lay out the legs on
onstrate several handy jigs and templates. the 2-in.-thick cherry.
I prefer cherry for this bed because of
its attractive color and grain, but walnut,
maple, or mahogany would work as well.
38 -in.-dia. dowels
L-bracket
Lower headboard cross rail,
13 8 in. thick by 51/2 in. wide
13 headboard X slats;
by 621/2 in. long, including
each blank is 11/2 in. thick 1/4-in.-dia.
tenons
by 315 16 in. wide by 21 in. dowels
long. Center support stretcher. 3/4 in. thick
by 1 in. wide by 61 in. long; two side
pieces, 3/4 in. thick by 11/2 in. wide by
61 in. long, tapered at ends
14 footboard X slats;
each blank is 11/4 in.
thick by 33 8 in. wide
by 17 in. long
Bead
11 16 in.
headboard footboard
(13 slats) (14 slats)
Chamfer
1/4-in.-dia. hole,
in. deep
38
CL CL
COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
leg cURl
feel free to change the
geometry slightly to match Position of
upper cross rail
11 16 in. your carving gouges.
Upper cross rails,
11/2 in. thick by leg teMplateS 1/4-in. reveal
21/4 in. wide by
601/2 in. long
Position of
X slat
heADboARD
Leg
scale
1 square = 1 in.
fooTboARD
Leg
Recess for
bed-bolt nut Position of
upper cross rail
Bed bolt
Position
of X slat
-in.
18
Bed-bolt cover reveal
Lower cross-
8 rail mortise,
3/4 in. thick by
2 in. wide by
X-Slat teMplateS 11 8 in. deep
The headboard slats are longer and
wider than the footboard ones.
Lower cross-
rail mortise, Flat on 223/4 in.
3/4 in. thick by legs for rail
2 in. wide by connection
11 8 in. deep
in.
58
Bed-bolt
201/2 in. Side-rail mortise,
3/4 in. hole 3/4 in. thick by 2 in.
wide by 11 8 in. deep,
centered on the leg
161/2 in.
141/4 in.
16 in.
10 in.
91/4 in.
8 8
11/4 in. 1 in. 11/2 in.
fooTboARD heADboARD
plywood
Drill-press back
table,
angled Slat Edge-guide
vertically blank spacers
511 16 in.
Bolt to
table. Precision drilling. If you lay out the
rails carefully, and build an accurate
Backer jig for drilling the slats, the dowels will
block cut L-fence Insert for drilling
at an 8 L-fence footboard slat 2. Slide slat to left line up perfectly.
angle Side view blank and drill second hole.
80 F I N E w o o d w o r k in g
COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
Rails take shape
Shape the cross rails. After drilling for the X-slat
joinery, profile the top of the upper cross rails using
a 1-in.-dia. roundover bit in a router table.
Counterbore first. Use a 1-in.-dia. Forstner bit to create a hole big enough for the head of the bed
bolt and the wrench used to tighten it. Follow through with a bit the diameter of the bolt and com-
plete the hole.
and dry-fit tenons on each end, and put a hand to the desired rounded shape. Even Drill down the line. Use careful layout to drill
1 8-in. roundover on the long edges. though I sand lightly with P320-grit paper a hole on the inside of the side rail where the
For the lower cross rails, mill the wood after planing, I leave the subtle lines where nut will be located; then sight down the layout
to 13 8 in. thick and cut them to length. the handplane has done its work. It leaves line to drill in from the end of the side rail and
Next, cut the tenons, using a tablesaw or a a rippled surface that your fingers will reach break into the first hole.
router. Finally, give the long edges a 1 8-in. out to touch each time you pass the bed.
roundover and sand to P320-grit. Bed bolts connect the side rails to the by the bolt, following the line drawn on
Before the next step, cut the upper cross legsTraditional square-headed bed bolts the inside of the rail, until you break into
rails to width and the same length as the (www.horton-brasses.com; www.wood the 1-in.-dia. hole. Last, on the side of this
lower cross rails minus their tenons. Dont worker.com), combined with small tenons, hole in the rail nearest the end, create a flat
shape the top of the upper rails yet. are the best way to connect the legs and the spot for the bed bolts nut to bear against.
Drilling holes for the XsThe Xs are side rails, creating a strong joint that can be Test-fit by connecting the leg to the rail.
joined to the upper and lower cross rails disassembled to move the bed.
with dowels, so the next step is to use a The side-rail and cross-rail tenons are Dry-assemble before using glue
template to mark the location and then drill offset so the bolt can pass between them. With up to 18 Xs and 72 dowels, assem-
the holes. Use the plans on pp. 78-79 to On a drill press, use a Forstner bit to drill bling the head- and footboards requires a
make a thin layout template, and space the a hole 1 in. dia. by 34 in. deep. Complete dry run and several pairs of hands. Begin-
Xs along the top of the lower cross rail and the hole by drilling through the leg with ning with the headboard, clamp the lower
then along the matching underside of the a 716-in. bit. Dry-fit the leg to the side rail, cross rail in a bench vise or onto the bench-
upper cross rail. Mark off the center of each place the bed bolt in the hole, and use a top, and dry-assemble with an X at each
hole using an awl and then drill each 14-in.- mallet to imprint the point of the bolt on end and one or two in the middle using
dia. hole to just over 38 in. deep. the end of the rail. Transfer this location 34-in.-long dowels.
Shaping the upper cross railsAfter along the inside of the rail, calculate the Drill two 3 8-in.-dia. holes about 13 8 in.
drilling holes on the underside, shape the point the tip of the bolt will reach in the deep in each end of the upper cross rail.
top sides of these two pieces using a 1-in. rail, and then use the 1-in. Forstner bit to Place dowel centers in the holes, put the
roundover bit on the router table or by drill a 1516-in.-deep hole at this location. rail on the Xs, attach the legs, and transfer
taking several passes on the tablesaw with Using the 716-in. bit, drill a hole in from the dowel points onto them. Remove the
the blade at different angles. Then plane by the end of the rail from the point marked legs and drill 13 8-in.-deep holes.
82 F I N E w o o d w o r k in g
COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.
Assemble and finish
Assemble with help. Youll need a second pair of hands when attaching the upper cross rail and
aligning all the dowels with the slats (left). When you are gluing the cross rails to the slats, attach
the legs to keep the rails aligned but dont glue them at this time (above). After the rail and slat
assembly has dried, remove the legs, apply glue, and clamp in place.
COPYRIGHT 2008 by The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and distribution of this article is not permitted.