Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Objectives
Outline the elements of a basic cost sheet of a garment.
Describe cost plus method of pricing the garments.
Prepare final Absorption Costing chart, Marginal Costing chart and Activity Based Costing
chart.
Apparel costing is used for a number of reasons, including for: Classification and sub-
divisions of Costs, Control of Materials, Labour and Overhead Costs, and for Business Policies.
It helps the management to take decisions. It helps to create an expansion strategy. Ensures
Optimum Profitability, and Helps the management to take suitable steps to meet seasonal
variations in volume and costs. etc.
Apparel costing is useful for Budgeting and for setting standards for Measuring Efficiencies.
It allows the best use of limited resources and is an instrument of Management Control. It
helps in Cost Audit, and Price Determination. It ascertains the cost per unit of different
products manufactured and provides a correct analysis of cost both by process and
operations. It discloses sources of wastages and acts as a guide to price fixation of products
manufactured. It ascertains the profitability of each product that is manufactured and
exercises effective control of stocks of raw materials at various stages. Implements cost
control systems. It guides the management in the formulation and implementation of
incentive bonus plans and helps in preparation of budgets and also helps in implementation
of budgetary control.
III. Elements of Costs
There are three main elements of costs. They are: Materials, Labour and other expenses.
Materials can be either direct material or indirect material. Labour can be direct or indirect.
Other expenses can be direct or indirect.
All Indirect Expenses give rise to Overhead expenses.
This includes: Production or Works overheads, administration overhead, selling overhead,
distribution overhead, research and development overhead.
1. Direct Materials
Direct materials include: All raw materials, materials specifically purchased, parts or
components purchased or produced, and primary packing materials.
2. Direct Labour
Direct labour includes: Labour engaged on the actual production, labour engaged in aiding
the manufacture, and specially required for production. For example, Inspectors.
3. Overhead
Overhead is the aggregate cost of indirect materials, indirect materials.
4. Division of Costs
Here are some ways that costs can be divided.
1. Prime Cost = Direct Materials + Direct Labours + Direct Expenses.
2. Works or Factory Cost = Prime Cost + Works or Factory Overheads.
3. Cost of Production = Works Cost + Administration Overheads.
4. Total Cost / Cost of Sales = Cost of Production + Selling Overhead + Distribution Overhead.
2. By Functions
Cost can be classified by functions. Either by: Manufacturing and Production Cost, or by
Commercial Cost. This includes: (1) Administrative Cost. (2) Selling and Distribution Cost
and (3) Research and Development Cost.
4. By Variability
Costs can be classified by variability, such as: Fixed or Period Cost, Variable or Product Cost
and Semi-variability Cost.
5. By Controllability
Costs can be classified by controllability. These are: Controllable costs and Uncontrollable
costs.
6. By Normality
Costs can be classified by normality. These are: Normal costs and Abnormal costs.
7. By Time
Costs can be classified on the basis of time. These are: Historical costs and predetermined
costs.
V. Methods of Costing
1. Job Costing:
Costs are collected and accumulated for each job, work order or project separately to analyse
the cost according to each job.
2. Contract Costing:
When the job is big and spread over long periods of time a separate account is kept for each
individual contract.
3. Batch Costing:
A Batch may represent a number of small orders passed through the factory in batch. Each
batch is treated as an unit of cost and separately costed. It is an extension of job costing.
4. Process Costing:
A separate account is opened for each process to which all expenditures incurred thereon
are charged so that cost per unit at each process can be ascertained.
5. Unit Costing:
Here the cost per unit of output and the cost of each item is ascertained. The manufacture is
continuous and units are identical.
6. Operating Costing:
It is used to ascertain the cost of services rendered. Example: Transport undertakings.
7. Operation Costing:
This takes into consideration the rejections in each operations for calculating input units and
cost. It refers to conversion cost from raw material to finished products.
8. Multiple Costing:
It represents the application of more than one method of costing in respect to the same
product.
Incoterm Used
Incoterm used is a factor that makes a huge difference in fabric cost. While importing the
fabric from another country, a merchandiser needs to deal with the supplier for delivery of
the fabric on the basis of incoterms like EXW, FOB, CIF, DDP etc., based on which it will be
decided, as to who will bear the cost of transportation and risk.
No matter which incoterm is used, all the cost needs to be charged to buyer. If the fabric is
purchased by using EXW incoterm, then the merchandiser needs to add the transportation
cost along with the custom clearance charges and the price of fabric while calculating the
garment cost.
These methods are used to calculate the fabric consumption roughly at sampling stage by
merchandiser. These formulas will give approximate calculation for pre-costing stage of the
garment. Sometimes fabric consumption is also done by forming the miniature marker by
CAD department. These are the constraints of fabric consumption: Fabric cutting width,
repeat size, pattern type to be informed to the CAD along with buyer tech-pack in order to
calculate exact width and consumption.
The marker efficiency considered 80-85% depending upon the fabric type i.e. solid dyed,
stripe, checks fabric. Efficiency can be changed depending upon the fabric parameters,
matching parameters of the buyer, type of style.
The buffer in the consumption should be added to the fabric by merchandiser, generally it is
0.03-0.08% of total fabric consumption. In case of trim fabric i.e. interlining the 10-20%
more buffers is kept while ordering the interlining, in order to maintain the inventory and to
avoid the shortage during the production and fabric wastage percentages, to be added also,
while calculating the fabric consumption. Considerable wastage depends on factory
practices, type of fabric and type of garment.
Trims
Trims include all materials other than fabric used in the garment. For example, most
garments have accessories such as threads, buttons, zippers, labels, elastics and
miscellaneous items. Quality and quantity of trim and labour required to apply it on garment
are directly related to cost of garment. The different trims have different UOM; even same
trim can have 2-3 different UOMs that can be summarised as:
UOM of Trims Used in UOM
Garments Trims
Thread 6000 meter tube,
Meter Cone
Labels Unit
Zippers Unit
Fabric consumption
Once the sample is approved and a pattern is developed, the amount of fabric required per
unit is calculated. The fabric cost constitutes 60 to 70 percent of the total garment making
cost. The fibre content, spinning process used, fabric GSM (Gram Square Meter), and the
percentage of shrinkage and wastage in the fabric are also determined while deriving the
cost. The consumption for knitted garments is determined in kilograms while for woven it is
determined in yards. Two popular systems used for the calculation of amount of fabric
required per garment are mathematical and marker planning systems.
The mathematical system provides a rough estimate to the manufacturer and is generally
used in the sampling stage of production. The consumption of fabric for producing a certain
style of garment is calculated by measuring the length and the width of each and every piece
of the garment pattern. Either by using software like Computer Aided Design (CAD) and
Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) or manually the marker planning can be done.
For knitted garments, the Gram Square Meter (GSM) of the fabric plays a vital role in costing.
The type of machines, fabrics & blends, and configurations used for knitting the fabric of the
garment affects the price of making. Similarly for woven apparels, the Ends per Inch (EPI)
are taken into account. The bigger the beaming length, the lesser will be the cost of weaving.
Hence, the beam size can increase or decrease the cost of making a garment. The kinds of
weave like twill, satin, and plain and the sort of machineries used for the particular garment
influence the weaving cost.
Dyeing cost
The use of a particular kind of dye and a certain shade of color impacts the dyeing cost of a
garment. For example dyeing a fabric in lighter shades costs less and VAT dyes are costlier
than reactive ones. Dyeing of specific colors like red and turquoise cost more than basic
colors like black and white.
Besides the fabrics, trims and accessories used to make the complete garment such as
zippers, buttons, sewing threads, embellishments, care labels, elastics, and cartons add up to
the cost. Threads used in a garment depend on the kind of seam used in it. There are various
ways to measure the amount of thread being used. At times, the amount of thread used is
calculated at the sample making stage itself. The weight of the thread cone is measured
before and after using the quantity, and the difference is calculated to identify the amount
actually consumed. The size, shape, and material used in trims like zippers, buttons, and
labels also sums up the cost of making a garment.
Out of the ordinary processes carried out by the manufacturer like washing, printing, and
embroidery for the order of a particular buyer. Wet processing chemicals consist of
bleaching, softening, and neutralizing processes. Unique and advanced finishes for fabrics
can increase the cost of making a garment.
The above costs combine to determine the garment costing in an organization. However,
every company has their own method of deriving the cost of making a garment. The following
are the different methods of costing incorporated in the textile industry:
Marginal costing:
Marginal costs are variable costs consisting of labor and material costs, plus an estimated
portion of fixed costs (such as administration overheads and selling expenses). In companies
where average costs are fairly constant, marginal cost is usually equal to average cost.
However, in industries that require heavy capital investment (automobile plants, airlines,
mines) and have high average costs, it is comparatively very low.
The concept of marginal cost is critically important in resource allocation because, for
optimum results, management must concentrate its resources where the excess of marginal
revenue over the marginal cost is maximum. Also called choice cost, differential cost, or
incremental cost.
3. Absorption costing:
A method of costing a product in which all fixed and variable costs are apportioned to cost
centers where they are accounted for using absorption rates. This method ensures that all
incurred costs are recovered from the selling price of a good or service. Also called full
absorption costing. See also direct costing, marginal costing.
Hence garment or apparel costing is an important tool for cutting costs, avoiding wastages,
and making optimum utilization of the available raw material and resources. Using an
appropriate method of garment costing can help in developing a better quality of style for
buyers and provide clarity to the process of manufacturing too.
Types of Label:
1. Main Label: Contains buyer name or brand name.
2. Size Label: Contains garments size.
3. Care Label: Provides information about washing, ironing, drying etc.
4. Integrated Label: Contains main label, care label, and size label in a
combination.
Care label: It is attach at the side of garments & contain following three information-
Composition
Care code or symbol
Country of origin
Trims:
Zipper: A fastening device operating by means of two parallel rows of metal or plastic teeth
on either side of a closure that are interlocked by a sliding tab is called zipper. These are used
in industrial clothing, typical apparel garments as a closure in pants, skirt & dresses. Basically
it is the part of chain. The physical part of the zipper are shown in the following figure-
Fig 6: Zipper
1. Zipper Tape: Zipper tape is the woven fabric made by nylon or polyester or bland
fiber. It is treated as critical part of zipper because it should be DTM. It is attach by
swing with garments.
2. Teeth: It is made of brass, aluminum or plastic or nylon. Zipper is opened & closed by
these teeth.
3. Slider: It is used to open & close the zipper teeth.
4. Stopper: It controls the slider run out of the zipper.
Button: Button is a knob or disc which can be attached to the garments as a means of
fastening or ornamentation. Button is an essential trim which is attached with garments as
functional or decorative purpose. Button can be made from different types of materials.
Mostly use metal & plastic.
The size of button is express as ligne where 1Ligne = 0.635m. At 1st button diameter is
measure through slide calipers & converted in to ligne.
According to the number of hole button can be classified as two types-
Accessories and Packaging:
Total 45.83
6. Packaging
i. Plastic Bag 1 5 5
ii. Carton
a. Inner 1 9 9
b. Outer 1 80 6.6
(12
trousers)
iii. Tags 1 0.5 0.5
Total 21.1
Cost of Labour
Particulars Estimated Level of Cost/min or Cost/piece
SAM Skill unit
1. Inspection 0.28 Skilled 3.5 1
2. Spreading & 0.2 Skilled 3.5 0.7
Marking
3. CMT 0.1 Skilled 3.5 0.35
4. Sewing 22.3 Skilled 3.5 78.05
5. Finishing 0.5 Skilled 3.5 1.75
Total 82.2
Overheads Apportionment per piece
Particulars Basis of Unit Cost/unit Total
Apportionment
Factory Overheads
1. Indirect Material
i. Consumable Number 10 0.5 5
ii. Oil
grease/lubrican Millilitres 2 0.5 1
ts
2. Indirect Labour 50 3000/12480 12
i. Wages No. of Employees min
ii. Managers
Salary
3. Indirect Expenses
i. Factory Rent Floor Space 200*200 50000 1.25
and taxes (m2)
100000*5%/
ii. Depreciation Cost of Machine 5% 1000 5
iii. Lighting Light Points 100 100000
12480 0.25
Total 24.5
Absorption Costing
Particulars Amount Total
(INR) (INR)
1. Direct Material
i. Fabric 252.00
ii. Lining Fabric 210.11
iii. Trims 47.8
iv. Thread
Consumption 171.79
v. Fusing Material 45.63
A. Material
Consumed 727.33
2. Direct Labour
i. Inspection 1.00
ii. Spreading & 0.70
Marking
iii. Cutting 0.35
iv. Sewing 78.05
v. Finishing 1.75 82.2
3. Direct Expenses
i. Packaging Costs 21.1 21.1
B. Prime Cost
(1 + 2 +3) 830.63
4. Factory Overheads 24.5
C. Works Costs 855.13
5. Office and
Administrative 12
Overheads
C. Office and
Administrative
Costs 867.13
(A + B + C)
4. Selling and Distribution
Overheads 15
D. Total cost of Sales
(A + B + C) 882.13
E. Profit (140%) 1234.982
F. Sales
(D + E) 2117.112
Marginal Costing
Particulars Amount Total
(INR) (INR)
A. Sales 2117.112
B. Variable Cost
Direct Material
i. Fabric 252.00
ii. Lining Fabric 210.11
iii. Trims 47.8
iv. Thread
Consumption 171.79
v. Fusing Material 45.63 727.33
Direct Labour
vi. Inspection 1.00
vii. Spreading & 0.70
Marking
viii. Cutting 0.35
ix. Sewing 78.05
x. Finishing 1.75 82.2
Direct Expenses
ii. Packaging Costs 21.1 21.1
Selling and Distribution
Expenses 15
C. Contribution 1271.382
(A - B)
D. Fixed Costs
Factory Overheads 24.5
E. Profit 1246.882
Activity based costing
Activity Cost driver base Cost driver Resource used by one unit
rate(Rs.)
Factory floor space Foot2 - 1.25
Electricity Kilowatt - 0.25
Water Gallons - 0.10
Quality control Units inspected 8000/8000pcs. 1
Packaging - inner Number of 9 9
products
Packaging - outer Boxes 80 (12 trouser) 6.6
Electricity 1,250*64=80000
Unemployment 1,500*64=96000
insurance
TOTAL 720000/12480=57.7