CHAPTER 3

FORMULATION OF SURFACE WAVE PROBLEM

3.1 Introduction
Basic equations for waves describing the phenomena will be derived by formulating the
surface wave problem. Formulating the surface wave problem will cover only the simple
harmonic progressive waves and will be given with the equations to be solved for the
appropriate boundary conditions. Following terminology will be used in the formulation of
the two dimensional (x-z plane) surface wave problem (Fig. 3.1) for simplicity where x
axes is placed at Still Water Level (SWL).

d = distance from mean water level to bottom

(x,t) = instantaneous vertical displacement of water surface above still water level
a = wave amplitude
H = wave height (for small amplitude waves H=2a)
L = wavelength, distance between any two corresponding positions on successive waves
T = wave period, time interval required for motion to reoccur at a given fixed period
C = velocity of wave propagation (phase velocity) = L/T
k = wave number = 2 / L
= wave angular frequency = 2 /T

Still Water
Wave Level
profile L (SWL)
C
(x,z,t)
H
a
z

d(x,z)
x

Sea bottom
z=-d(x,z)

Fig.3.1 Definition sketch for surface wave (two dimensional)

The surface wave problem will firstly be formulated and will be solved with the
appropriate boundary conditions.

3.2 Equations and Unknowns

The equation, which will be solved, is the Laplace Equation:

2 2
+ = 0 .....(3.1)
x 2 z 2

The domain of the solution is:

< x < +
........(3.2)
d z

The solution of the Laplace equation should satisfy appropriate boundary condition on
the surfaces indicated by Eq (3.2).

Once is obtained, the particle velocities are computed from:

u=
x
..............................................................(3.3)

w=
z

The water pressure under the wave is then computed from the Bernoulli Equation:

P 1 2
= (u + w 2 ) gz ..............................................................................................(3.4)
t 2

3.2 Boundary Conditions

Condition at Infinities
At x = the velocity potential should be bounded (i.e. should be finite).

Condition at the Sea Bed

The sea bottom is rigid and impermeable; therefore the particle velocity normal to the
bottom should be zero (horizontal sea bed).
Thus the kinematic condition at the sea bed is:

w= = 0 at z = -d......................................................................................................(3.5)
z

Conditions on the Free Surface: F(x,z,t)

Equation of free surface F(x,z,t) is generally given as z = ( x, y, z ) . For free surface wave
problem it can be written as;
z = ( x, z, t )

z ( x, z, t ) = 0

Therefore;
F ( x, z, t ) = z ( x, z, t ) = 0

Kinematic Condition on the Free Surface

A water particle which is once on the free surface should remain on the free surface
throughout the motion. Therefore;

DF F F F
= +u +w =0
Dt t x z

Using;
F ( x, z, t ) = z ( x, t ) = 0

one obtains;
F
=
t t

F
=
x x

F
=1
z
DF
Then ; = +u +v w =0
Dt t x y
Solving for w:

w= +u on z = ( x, y, t ) ....................................................................................(3.6)
t x
is obtained.

Dynamic Condition on the Free Surface

If one neglects the surface tension force between the air-water interface than it is
appropriate to write, dynamic condition on the free surface is;

P = Pa = 0 on z = (x, z, t)

Using Bernoulli Equation (Eq.2.28), dynamic condition on the free surface is obtained as:
1 2
( u + w 2 ) g = 0 on z = (x, z, t) ................................................................(3.7)
t 2

3.3 Difficulties in Obtaining the Solution for the Boundary Value

Obtaining the solution for boundary value problem has some basic difficulties as;

The problem is a nonlinear one

1 2
u , (u + w 2 )
x 2

The shape of the free surface boundary [ ( x, t )] as shown in Fig.3.2, is not known
at the beginning. In fact, [ ( x, t )] it is another unknown to be determined.

SWL
x

w
u
d
Sea bed

Fig.3.2 Shape of free surface