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International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 111

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Review
A review of traditional fermented foods and beverages of
Zimbabwe
a a b, c
T.H. Gadaga , A.N. Mutukumira , J.A. Narvhus *, S.B. Feresu
a
Institute of Food, Nutrition and Family Sciences, University of Zimbabwe, P.O. Box MP 167, Mount Pleasant, Harare, Zimbabwe
b , Norway
Department of Food Science, Agricultural University of Norway, P.O. Box 5036, N-1432 As
c
Department of Biological Sciences, University of Zimbabwe, P.O. Box MP 167, Mount Pleasant, Harare, Zimbabwe

Received 29 July 1999; accepted 6 September 1999

Abstract

Several traditional fermented foods and beverages are produced at household level in Zimbabwe. These include fermented
maize porridges (mutwiwa and ilambazi lokubilisa) fermented milk products (mukaka wakakora /amasi and hodzeko)
non-alcoholic cereal-based beverages (mahewu, tobwa and mangisi) alcoholic beverages from sorghum or millet malt
(doro /uthwala and chikokivana) distilled spirits (kachasu) and fermented fruit mashes (makumbi). There are many regional
variations to the preparation of each fermented product. Research into the processing technologies of these foods is still in its
infancy. It is, therefore, important that the microbiology and biochemistry of these products, as well as their technologies be
studied and documented in order to preserve them for future generations. This article reviews the available information
regarding traditional fermented foods in Zimbabwe and makes recommendations for potential research areas. 1999
Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.

Keywords: Traditional fermented foods; Mutwiwa; Doro; Mahewu; Makumbi; Amasi

1. Introduction to the detoxification and destruction of undesirable


factors present in raw foods such as phytates, tannins
Fermented foods make up an important contribu- and polyphenols (Sharma and Kapoor, 1996).
tion to the human diet in many countries because Several traditional fermented products have been
fermentation is an inexpensive technology which documented in different African countries and in-
preserves food, improves its nutritional value and clude non-alcoholic beverages, alcoholic beverages,
enhances its sensory properties (Murty and Kumar, breads, pancakes, porridges, cheeses and milks (Van
1995; Steinkraus, 1996). Fermentation may also lead der Walt, 1956; Haggblade and Holzapfel, 1989;
Ashenafi, 1990; Dirar, 1993; Mwesigye and Okurut,
*Corresponding author. Tel.: 1 47-64-948-550; fax: 1 47-64- 1995; Steinkraus, 1996). In Zimbabwe, fermented
943-789. foods are produced at household level from various
E-mail address: judith.narvhus@inf.nlh.no (J.A. Narvhus) raw materials such as cereals, milk, fruits, and wood

0168-1605 / 99 / $ see front matter 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.
PII: S0168-1605( 99 )00154-3
2 T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11

sap. Some of these household fermentation tech- maize porridge (sadza) (Gomez, 1989; Okagbue,
nologies have been converted to an industrial scale in 1995). It is an adult-type food, which is commonly
Zimbabwe and South Africa in order to meet the used to wean children and is introduced to infants
demand for traditional products by the urban popula- between 418 months (Simango, 1997). The maize
tion. Routine home preparation of fermented foods is porridge, if thin, is mixed with water or if thick
too arduous and time consuming in the urban (sadza) is mashed into small pieces and mixed with
environment (Okagbue, 1995). Industrialised prod- water. Sorghum or millet malt or wheat flour is then
ucts include non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverages added to either mix and left to ferment (Simango and
such as mahewu and chibuku, respectively, and Rukure, 1991; Mutasa and Ayebo, 1993; Okagbue,
fermented dairy products such as lacto. 1995). The fermentation is a spontaneous process in
This review aims to list and summarize the which the natural flora of the malt carries out the
production processes of common Zimbabwean tradi- fermentation at ambient temperature (Simango and
tional fermented foods and to highlight, where Rukure, 1991; Mutasa and Ayebo, 1993; Okagbue,
available, some of the microbiological and biochemi- 1995). The drink is consumed after standing for
cal properties of the fermented foods and technologi- about 24 h (Okagbue, 1995). This traditional way of
cal improvements which have been achieved on the producing mahewu requires an extended fermen-
production of some of the foods. tation time because of the low initial number of
desirable lactic acid bacteria (Mutasa and Ayebo,
1993). The use of uncontrolled conditions, especially
2. Cereal based fermented products temperature, may also result in the proliferation of
undesirable microorganisms which convert lactic
Most cereal-based non-alcoholic and alcoholic acid to undesirable end products which adversely
beverages in Zimbabwe are prepared using either affect the taste and texture of mahewu (Holzapfel,
sorghum (Sorghum bicolor), bulrush millet (Pen- 1991).
nisetum typhoideum) or finger millet (Eleusine Little information has been recorded on the gener-
coracana) malt. The Shona generic name for all al properties, microbiological processes and safety of
these malts is chimera (Gomez, 1989). traditionally prepared Zimbabwean mahewu. Mutasa
and Ayebo (1993) carried out several laboratory
experiments in which they simulated the traditional
2.1. Preparation of malt fermentation of mahewu and varied the levels of
sorghum malt and type of ingredients added to the
Sorghum or millet malt (chimera) is prepared by porridge; the solid content and the cooking time of
packing the grain in a sack and steeping it in water the porridge; and the temperature of fermentation.
(pond or river) for about a day (Madovi, 1981; The best mahewu was obtained when 30 g of a
Benhura and Chingombe, 1989). The swollen grains mixture of finger millet (1 / 3) and sorghum (2 / 3)
are either spread on the floor in a layer up to 10 cm malts were added to 500 ml of heated porridge. The
thick and left to germinate for up to 3 days (Benhura porridge contained 14% solids and was a result of
and Chingombe, 1989) or are washed and left to mixing 30 g each of maize meal and sorghum malt
germinate for 2 days in the sack at ambient tempera- with 500 ml water followed by boiling the mixture
tures (Zvauya et al., 1997). The germinated grains for 10 min. The mix was fermented at 458C for 16 h.
are then spread out on a flat piece of rock or other The pH and acidity of laboratory produced mahewu
suitable surface and left to dry in the sun. Tradition- were 3.29 and 0.50% (calculated as lactic acid),
ally, the malt was coarsely ground using a grinding respectively. This compares well with a pH of about
stone, however today hammer mills are more com- 3.5 and titratable acidity of 0.40.5% recorded for
monly used (Benhura and Chingombe, 1989). the South African traditionally fermented mahewu
(Schweigart and Fellingham, 1963; Holzapfel, 1991;
2.2. Non-alcoholic beverages Steinkraus, 1996).
Very few studies have been done to isolate and
Mahewu (amahewu) is a beverage, which is characterise the microorganisms responsible for fer-
prepared from either thin maize porridge or thick menting the traditionally fermented mahewu in
T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11 3

Zimbabwe. The predominant microorganisms in the natural fermentation of millet mash (Zvauya et al.,
spontaneous fermentation of the South African 1997). The preparation varies in the different regions
mahewu belong to Lactococcus ( Lact.) lactis subsp. of Zimbabwe. In one variation, finger millet is
lactis (Steinkraus, 1996). Schweigart et al. (1960) malted then milled and the flour mixed with water.
used a starter culture of either Lactobacillus ( Lb.) The mixture is slowly heated for 80 min to almost
delbrueckii or Lb. bulgaricus to produce mahewu at boiling. The resulting product is the mash (mas-
458C. This reduced the fermentation time from 36 to vusvu) which is cooled, diluted, strained and allowed
3 h. to stand for some hours during which spontaneous
Simango and Rukure (1991,1992) worked on the fermentation takes place to give mangisi (Zvauya et
microbial safety of traditionally fermented mahewu. al., 1997). The microorganisms responsible for fer-
They showed that the mahewu produced in mentation are thought to come from the utensils,
Zimbabwean homes had bactericidal and / or bac- fermentation vessel and to include those organisms
teriostatic properties against strains belonging to the from the malt flour that survive cooking.
genera Aeromonas, Salmonella and Shigella as well Another variation involves malting the finger
as strains of Campylobacter jejuni and en- millet, milling, mixing the flour with water and
teropathogenic Escherichia coli. These observations boiling the mixture for 12 h. The masvusvu is
suggest that traditional fermented mahewu is an cooled, diluted and allowed to stand overnight. On
unlikely vehicle for the transmission of enteric the second day more malt flour is added and the
pathogens (Simango and Rukure, 1991,1992). mixture left to ferment until early on the third day
Industrial production of mahewu has met with when the coarse solids are strained off and the
some success in South Africa and Zimbabwe (Van fermenting mixture returned to the fermentation
Noort and Spence, 1976; Mutasa and Ayebo, 1993). vessel. The mangisi is ready for consumption later
A variety of powdered concentrated forms of on the same morning of the third day (Benhura and
mahewu, which can be mixed with water to either Chingombe, 1989). Although no work has been done
produce a beverage, which can be consumed instant- to characterize this variety of mangisi, it is likely to
ly, or be left to ferment for several hours at room contain more alcohol than the variety described by
temperature, can be purchased from retail outlets in Zvauya et al. (1997) because of the addition of extra
Zimbabwe. These powders are usually fortified with malt to the brew on the second day which serves as
minerals, vitamins and soy protein (Mutasa and an additional source of inoculum and also the longer
Ayebo, 1993). The varieties of commercial mahewu fermentation time.
only serve as substitutes as their taste is usually Zvauya et al. (1997) carried out laboratory studies
different and perceived to be inferior to that of on the microbiological and biochemical changes
traditionally fermented mahewu. More work needs to which occur during the production of manaisi.
be done to elucidate the microflora responsible for Counts of aerobic mesophilic bacteria and of lactic
naturally fermenting mahewu and to develop them acid bacteria as well as those of yeasts and moulds
into starter cultures in order to industrially produce increased during 8 h of fermentation. The four
mahewu which more closely resembles the tradition- groups of microorganisms produced organic acids,
al product. ethanol, carbon dioxide, and other volatile flavour
Tobwa is another non-alcoholic cereal-based compounds, which gave the characteristic flavour
beverage, which is very similar to mahewu but has and taste to the final product. The laboratory-pre-
not been previously documented. Like mahewu, it is pared mangisi had a final pH of 3.98, titratable
made by mashing left over sadza into small pieces acidity of 0.67% and lactic acid concentration of
and mixing it with water to form a slurry, then 4.10 g / l. Although the microorganisms found during
leaving the mixture to ferment overnight. The only fermentation were enumerated, no attempt was made
difference with mahewu is that no malt is added to to isolate and characterize them or to determine the
the fermentation thus making the process a totally levels of ethanol and other organic acids which they
lactic acid fermentation. Tobwa is usually drunk by may produce during the fermentation. Mangisi is a
those people whose religion does not allow them to product with potential for scaling-up and industriali-
drink beverages to which malt has been added. zation. However, further studies are required to attain
Mangisi is a sweet-sour beverage made from the this goal.
4 T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11

2.3. Alcoholic beverages more than the amount cooked on the first day, is
prepared and allowed to cool. Meanwhile, a small
Chikokivana is a 1-day brew produced using a portion of the mhanga is strained and kept separ-
commercial yeast starter culture. Maize meal and ately. The strainings (masese), the rest of the un-
millet malt are mixed with water after which yeast is strained mhanga and the fresh portion of cooled
added (Madovi, 1981). The mixture is left to ferment masvusvu are all mixed together with water to give
for 24 h at ambient temperature in earthenware pots biti. The mixture is left to ferment for about 2 h and
or metallic drums. The brew is then strained to give the resulting product which is called madirwa is then
the final product. Although the brewing of strained, mixed with the previously strained mhanga
chikokiyana uses the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae and left to ferment overnight. The doro is served in
as a starter culture, the process has not been studied an active fermenting state the following morning.
and the product analysed to ascertain its alcohol The fermentation process takes 57 days depending
content and presence of any other metabolic products on ambient temperature.
of the yeast. Madovi (1981) described a process where the
ground cereal meal is dispersed in water and allowed
2.3.1. Doro to simmer to a thin porridge. The porridge is allowed
In Zimbabwe, bulrush and finger millet malts are to cool to room temperature, mixed with malt meal
preferred for the traditional brewing process although and left to ferment for a few days. This is then boiled
sorghum malt and sprouted maize are sometimes for approximately 1 h, cooled to room temperature
used for producing alcoholic beverages (Benhura and and more malt is added. The brew is again left to
Chingombe, 1989). The traditional brew is known as ferment for a few days after which a boiled and
doro, hwahwa, mhamba or uthwala in the different cooled slurry of coarsely ground malt is added. The
regions of the country. These are generic names mix is left for approximately 1 h then filtered
describing the same or similar products, which vary through a coarse cloth filter or wire sieve. The doro
in the details of the brewing process. Holzapfel is left to mature overnight before consumption.
(1991) erroneously used the term zezuru for this Ethanol is thought to be the main alcohol (about 4%
product. v / v) present although methanol, butanol and other
Doro is brewed for important social and cultural alcohols are also found in doro (Madovi, 1981).
gatherings as well as for generating income. Exam- Another variation is found in parts of Matebele-
ples of the social gatherings include when neigh- land where uthwala (the Ndebele generic name for
bouring households come to help with tasks such as doro) is usually prepared in 3 days. Sorghum malt
weeding and reaping of crops; weddings; celebra- and maize meal from germinated maize grains are
tions of success; and traditional religious ceremonies mixed with boiling water to form a slurry, which is
such as praying for rain and communicating with left to ferment overnight. This mixture is boiled on
ancestors (Madovi, 1981; Benhura and Chingombe, the second day to obtain a thin gruel, more malt is
1989). Madovi (1981) and Benhura and Chingombe added and the mixture is allowed to ferment over-
(1989) have described different methods of prepar- night. The product is then strained ready to drink on
ing doro. Briefly the brewing process described by the third day. This variety of doro /uthwala has not
Benhura and Chingombe (1989) involves preparing been previously documented.
masvusvu in the same way as is done for mangisi. Although no work has been done on the biochemi-
The masvusvu is cooled, diluted in clay pots and left cal and microbiological properties of doro, it is
to sour at ambient temperature for about 2 days. On perceived to be nutritionally superior to watery clear
the third day, the soured product (mhanga) is boiled beer. This is because it is colloidal, thick, with some
for 35 h, reducing the original volume by a quarter starch, protein, B-group vitamins, minerals, yeast
in the process. The boiled mhanga is allowed to cells and alcohol-tolerant bacteria (Madovi, 1981;
stand overnight after which more malt flour is added. Holzapfel, 1991). Because of this perception, em-
Typically, the amount of malt added is about half the ployers used to supply sorghum beer as part of
amount used at the beginning of the brewing process. rations to indigenous labourers in the mines and
On the sixth day some masvusvu, two to three times towns in South Africa and the then Central African
T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11 5

Federation (now Zimbabwe, Zambia and Malawi) ture. The hole in the pot is sealed with clay and the
during the 1950s (Schwartz, 1956). In order to meet mixture allowed to ferment for 47 days at ambient
this demand, the South African Council for Scientific temperature (Brett et al., 1992). At the end of the
and Industrial Research (CSIR) was tasked with fermentation, the seal on the hole is broken and a
developing the brewing of sorghum beer to an narrow pipe connected. The pipe transverses a water-
industrial scale in 1954 (Van der Walt, 1956; jacket containing cold water, which acts as a con-
Haggblade and Holzapfel, 1989). This led to the denser. The fermented brew is distilled over a small
development of the industrially produced (opaque) fire and the clear distillate is collected from the end
sorghum beer that is now well described and in- of the pipe into bottles. The alcohol content of the
dustrialised in South Africa, Botswana and kachasu can range from 941% (Brett et al., 1992).
Zimbabwe (Schwartz, 1956; Van der Walt, 1956; The selling and consumption of kachasu in
Holzapfel, 1991; Steinkraus, 1996). The industrial Zimbabwe has been illegal since 1971 because the
process partly employs the traditional technology of spirit is alleged to be toxic as its drinking has been
spontaneous lactic acid fermentation and combines it associated with ill health and cases of sudden death
with the use of a yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) (Brett et al., 1992). Toxicity is attributed to several
starter culture for alcoholic fermentation. The com- co-generic alcohols such as isoamyl alcohol, iso-
mercialized varieties of sorghum beer have various butanol, and methanol. Other organic compounds,
commercial brands in Zimbabwe such as chibuku, which have been identified in kachasu include
thabani, rufaro, simba, and go-beer. acetaldehyde, acetone, ethylacetate, and furfurals
Although these industrial sorghum beers are quite (Brett et al., 1992).
popular, they have not replaced traditionally fer- Kachasu is comparable to waragi, a Ugandan
mented doro in the rural areas. The microorganisms traditionally produced spirit whose production has
responsible for the fermentation of doro are poorly been commercialised by having small brewers sell
studied and thought to include wild yeasts from the their traditionally produced waraai to a large dis-
malt; and yeasts and bacteria from the beer pots tillery. The distillery then triple distils it to produce a
passed from previous brews. Madovi (1981) pro- high quality bottled commercial product with up to
posed that if yeast starter cultures were added to the 40% ethanol (v / v) (Mwesigye and Okurut, 1995). A
brew, the process could take less time than the similar scheme could be introduced to upgrade and
current 57 days. There is, therefore, a need to control the quality of kachasu and to produce a safer
isolate, identify and characterize the microorganisms and regulated distilled spirit.
involved in the traditional fermentation to allow for
the formulation of starter cultures. That way the 2.4. Porridges
fermentation could be carried out under controlled
conditions and produce a doro whose quality could Mutwiwa or mudzvurwa is a sour maize meal
be more readily controlled and monitored. It is also which can be used to produce sour sadza (Simango,
necessary to carry out studies to extend the shelf life 1997). Dried maize grains are sprinkled with a little
of doro as it is an actively fermenting product. water, pounded with a pestle and mortar to remove
Kachasu (also known as tototo or nipa) is a their husks, then sun-dried and winnowed. The
traditionally fermented, highly intoxicating distilled dehulled grains are washed, steeped in clean water
alcoholic spirit. It is usually brewed using maize and left to ferment until gas production ceases
meal but bulrush or finger millet meal, various fruits (Simango, 1997; Mawadza et al., 1999). Lactic acid
and banana peels may be used as alternative sources bacteria, aerobic mesophilic bacteria, yeasts and
of carbohydrate. The carbohydrate source is added to moulds proliferate during the spontaneous fermen-
warm water in a pot with a hole drilled on the side, tation of mutwiwa (Mawadza et al., 1999). The
which is used later during the distillation of the fermentation time can be shortened by back-slop-
spirit. The mixture is stirred into a slurry and ping, which involves retaining a small amount of
allowed to simmer for a few minutes before the pot fermented dehulled maize and adding it to a new
is removed from the fire. Sugar and yeast are added batch of dehulled maize. The fermented dehulled
after the slurry has been cooled to ambient tempera- maize is then either wet milled by pounding, win-
6 T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11

nowed and the fine meal sun-dried (Mawadza et al., (Okagbue, 1995). Thus the improvement of the
1999) or dried and hammer-milled into maize meal technologies for fermenting makumbi could benefit
(Simango, 1997). The product, mutwiwa, is then rural communities as they could be involved at
used to prepare thin porridge or sadza, which has an several stages during the production of the different
improved lactic acid taste. wild fruit beverages.
Mawadza et al. (1999) isolated two strains of Marula wine or beer is traditionally prepared by
Pediococcus pentosaceus from traditionally fer- spontaneously fermenting a mash obtained from the
mented mutwiwa and employed them as starter fruits of the marula plant (Scleroecarya caffra,
cultures for preparing mutwiwa. They compared the mapfura /umkumbi). The ripe fruits are washed /
rates of fermenting maize to mutwiwa when it cleaned and the skins removed. The fleshy stones are
occurred spontaneously, due to back-slopping and soaked in cold water for about 3 days, then removed
after addition of their starter cultures. Increased rates and the juice allowed to ferment for 2 days. It is then
of fermentation with corresponding faster decreases filtered to give a wine which, with slight improve-
in pH were observed after back-slopping and with ments to the technologies could result in a lovely
the use of starter cultures than when the maize was sparkling wine with a rich flavour (Madovi, 1981).
allowed to ferment spontaneously. The work was Alternatively, the ripe fruits are left to soak in cold
rather limited and needs to be pursued further for it water or pounded to remove the skins and stones.
to have a significant impact on improving the process The pulp is mixed with an equal volume of water in
and product. a pot, left to ferment overnight and is ready for
Ilambazi lokubilisa is a fermented thin sour por- drinking the next day (Tredgold, 1986). The pot may
ridge, which is similar to porridge produced from be sealed and left to ferment for 3 days, after which
mutwiwa although in this case the maize is fer- a gummy scum is skimmed off and the highly
mented after milling. It is consumed widely in intoxicating beer drunk on the fourth day (Tredgold,
Zimbabwe and used as a weaning food (Simango, 1986).
1997). Maize meal is thoroughly mixed with a little Both fermentative and non-fermentative yeasts
amount of water and allowed to ferment in a closed have been isolated from the marula fruits (Okagbue,
vessel for about 24 days. The fermented meal is 1995). The role of these yeasts in the production of
then used to make ilambazi lokubilisa /sour porridge marula wine / beer has however not been elucidated.
(Simango, 1997). Ilambazi lokubilisa has been It is possible that an acceptable product based on this
shown to be bactericidal to strains of enteric patho- natural flora could be developed. Production of a
gens belonging to the genera Aeromonas, Campylo- marula alcoholic beverage on an industrial commer-
bacter and Salmonella and bacteriostatic to strains of cial scale has been achieved in South Africa and a
Shigella and E. coli (Simango and Rukure, 1992). Its commercial wild fruit cocktail, amarula, is now
inhibitory properties were shown to be due to a available on the market in Zimbabwe. It is not clear
combination of many substances including lactic and whether this is the same product as marula liqueur
acetic acids (Simango, 1995). These properties make described by Tredgold (1986), which is produced by
ilambazi lokubilisa a safe readily available weaning steeping slashed ripe marula fruits in brandy and
food, which should be promoted. Therefore, the adding syrup to taste.
microbiology of its fermentation and how it differs Mudetemwa is an alcoholic beverage prepared
from that of mutwiwa need to be studied so that the from the fruits of the sand apple (Parinari curatel-
technology of its production can be improved. lifolia; muhacha). The fruits are pounded and the
juice extracted by squeezing by hand. The juice is
boiled, allowed to stand overnight, boiled again,
3. Fermented wild fruits products allowed to cool and then drunk as beer (Tredgold,
1986). Alternatively, the boiled juice is left to
Makumbi is the generic name for beverages made ferment further and the container is covered and
from wild fruits (Gomez, 1989). In general, over sealed with damp clay on the fourth day. An opening
10% of recorded major food plants of Zimbabwe can is then made on the side of the container so that
be fermented into some type of beer or wine when it is boiled, vapour ensuing from the opening
T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11 7

becomes condensed into a potent spirit, mudetemwa mespiliformis, mushenje / umdlawuzo), granite gar-
(Tredgold, 1986). Muhacha fruits are abundant in cinia (Garcinia huillensis, mutunduru), wild plum
summer and their fermentation has potential for (Harpephyllum caffrum), indaba tree (Pappea capen-
development of different makumbi products on an sis, chitununu /uzagogwane), nana berry (Rhus
industrial scale. tenuinervis, mudzambuya /umkungu) and water berry
Murara /ilala wine is another alcoholic beverage (Syzygium cordatum, mukute /umdoni) (Tredgold,
prepared from the sap of the murara /ilala tree 1986). These makumbi products can also be im-
(Hvphaene benguellensis). The sap is collected by proved through microbiological and other associated
tapping the tree trunk and is fermented into a wine, research (Okagbue, 1995).
which tastes like flat ginger beer and is hardly
intoxicating (Tredgold, 1986; Okagbue, 1995). The
wine can be distilled (10 l being distilled to 1 l) to a 4. Fermented milk
very potent spirit, uchema (Tredgold, 1986). The
steps in the preparation of these beverages and the Traditional naturally fermented milk is known as
microbiology and biochemistry of the processes have mukaka wakakora or zifa (Shona) or amasi
not been fully studied and documented. (Ndebele) (Mutukumira, 1995; Mutukumira et al.,
The ripe fruits of the buffalo thorn (Ziziphus 1995). A soured cottage cheese-like product is called
mauritiana, musau) are crushed, soaked for some hodzeko, mukaka wakakodzekwa or mukaka
hours in water and allowed to ferment. The fer- wemahwe (Madovi, 1981). The names sometimes
mented liquid called masau may be distilled to make vary with region or may be used as generic names,
a potent spirit (Tredgold, 1986). Studies are under- for example, Mutukumira (1995) used mukaka
way at the Zimbabwe Scientific and Industrial Re- wakakodzekwa for mukaka wakakora. For brevity,
search and Development Centre, to improve the the term amasi will be used throughout this review
technologies for producing masau at industrial scale. to refer to the traditional plain naturally fermented
Fruits of Uapaca kirkiana (mushuku /muzhanje) milk.
are pounded to break the skins and extract the seeds. Most of the rural population in Zimbabwe still
The pulp is mixed with cold water and left to spontaneously ferment raw milk to amasi (Feresu
ferment until the water turns opaque or grey. The and Muzondo, 1989; Mutukumira, 1995). Amasi has
liquid is then used to make a thin porridge by mixing however been substituted in urban areas by lacto, an
with ground maize (Tredgold, 1986). Alternatively industrially fermented milk. During lacto production,
the pulp can be left to ferment into a sweet wine milk is standardised, pasteurised at 928C for 20 min,
called mutandavira (Tredgold, 1986). This again is a cooled to 228C and inoculated with 1.2% mesophilic
wild fruit, which is seasonally abundant with a starter cultures similar to those employed to produce
potential for producing marketable fermented filmjolk, a Scandinavian fermented milk. The milk is
makumbi products at industrial scale. immediately packaged into sachets, and left to
Mutandabota is a thin fermented slurry made from ferment at ambient temperature for 18 h, and then
the juice of monkey orange (Strychnos spinosa, the lacto is stored at refrigeration temperatures until
mutamba). The fermentation of this juice has not yet sold (Feresu and Muzondo, 1989). Until recently,
been described. lacto had enjoyed a monopoly, but in the past decade
Other wild fruits whose juices are known to be other fermented milks such as kumusha and mayo
fermented into some alcoholic beverages include have been introduced onto the market.
donkey berries (Grewia monticola; mutongoro /um-
tewa; G. flavescens, mubhubhunu /ubhuzu), monkey 4.1. Amasi
fingers (Popowia obovata, munyani /umkozombo),
torchwood (Balanites aegyptiaca, nyahoko), bird More work has been carried out on amasi than any
plum (Berchemia discolor, munyii /umcaga), milk other fermented product in Zimbabwe and as a
plum (Bequaertiodendron magalismontanum, result, there have been several reviews on these
muhorongwa / umhlautshwa), monkey pod (Cassia studies (Feresu, 1992; Mutukumira et al., 1995;
petersiana, muremberembe), jackal berry (Diospyros Okagbue, 1995; Tamime and Marshall, 1997). Amasi
8 T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11

is produced by leaving fresh raw bovine milk to at ambient and refrigeration temperatures for 4 days.
ferment naturally at ambient temperature in earthen- Lacto was treated similarly for comparison. Lacto
ware pots or any other suitable containers (Feresu was more inhibitory to E. coli than amasi at both
and Muzondo, 1989; Feresu, 1992; Mutukumira et ambient and refrigeration temperatures and higher
al., 1995). The microorganisms inherent in the milk, numbers of E. coli survived when the amasi was
the container and the surrounding air are assumed to stored at ambient temperature than refrigeration
ferment the milk within 13 days depending on the temperature (Feresu and Nyati, 1990). Although L.
ambient temperature (Feresu and Muzondo, monocytogenes grew only marginally during fermen-
1989,1990; Mutukumira et al., 1995; Simango, tation of both products, . 10 2 cells / ml could still be
1997). It is common practice to sometimes speed up detected in both products at the end of the fermen-
the fermentation by back-slopping fresh milk with tation period. In contrast to E. coli however, larger
remains of a previous batch of sour milk (Oliver, numbers of L. monocytogenes survived at refrigera-
1971). tion temperature than at ambient temperature (Dalu
Feresu and Muzondo (1989) investigated the and Feresu, 1996). The challenge studies showed
effects of pasteurisation and the container used that current practices of naturally fermenting milk
during natural fermentation of milk at ambient are of public health concern because if milk is
temperature on the total microbial counts, the counts contaminated with E. coli, and possibly other enteric
of lactic acid bacteria (LAB), the amount of lactic pathogens during milking or fermentation; or milk
acid produced and the acceptability of the fermented from a mastitic cow infected with L. monocytogenes
milk by a sensory panel. They further compared is used for production of amasi the pathogens could
these parameters with those observed for lacto. The multiply to infective doses and / or retain relatively
total counts, numbers of LAB and lactic acid pro- high numbers during storage of the fermented prod-
duced were similar for amasi and lacto but the amasi uct at both ambient and refrigeration temperatures
was significantly more acceptable to a panel than (Feresu and Nyati, 1990; Dalu and Feresu, 1996).
lacto. Earthenware pots were better containers for The studies also suggested that the differences in
fermenting amasi than glass containers and may still acceptability of amasi and lacto and in their inhibi-
have a place in milk fermentation in the home tion of pathogens might be due to the types of
(Feresu and Muzondo, 1989). microorganisms involved in the two fermentations
A further study by Feresu and Muzondo (1990) (Feresu and Muzondo, 1989, 1990; Feresu and Nyati,
identified the predominant LAB isolated from amasi 1990; Feresu, 1992; Dalu and Feresu, 1996).
as belonging to Lactobacillus helveticus, Lb. plan- Mutukumira (1996) focused his studies on amasi
tarum, Lb. delbrueckii subsp. lactis, Lb. paracasei produced on a larger scale by a small-holder farmer
subsp. paracasei and Lb. paracasei subsp. pseudo- milk collection centre, the Nharira / Lancashire Milk
plantarum. The types of LAB isolated in this study Centre. The centre is part of the Dairy Development
were limited as MRS agar, which is known to be Programme initiated in Zimbabwe in 1983, where a
selective for the genus Lactobacillus, was the only group of small-holder dairy farmers are set up in a
isolation medium used (Mutukumira, 1996). Despite dairy scheme and sell milk to a central collection
this observation, however, four different strains of centre with refrigeration facilities. At the centre most
Lactococcus lactis, were isolated from lacto using milk is sold raw, and excess milk is naturally soured
the same medium. This might indicate that MRS at ambient temperatures in churns for periods up to
medium may allow growth of strains of Lactococcus 48 h. The curd is then carefully scooped out using a
when high numbers are present in the inoculum. perforated metallic plate, leaving the whey in the
To assess the risk of the occurrence of pathogens churn. It is then mixed and is ready for sale, or if the
in amasi, and to establish measures for safe manu- firmness is unacceptable or the viscosity too low,
facture and storage of the product, Feresu and Nyati cream from another vessel is added, the product
(1990) and Dalu and Feresu (1996), respectively, mixed and then sold (Mutukumira, 1995; Mutuku-
determined the behaviour of pathogenic E. coli and mira et al., 1996a).
Listeria monocytogenes during fermentation of Mutukumira (1996) carried out systematic studies
amasi at ambient temperature for 24 h and its storage in which he looked at how the milk is produced and
T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11 9

handled by the farmers in the Nharira / Lancashire strain Cl was found to coagulate milk within 18 h at
Scheme (Mutukumira et al., 1996a); the chemical 258C and to produce adequate levels of diacetyl,
and microbiological quality of the raw milk acetaldehyde and lactic acid. The amasi produced by
(Mutukumira et al., 1996b); the isolation and charac- this strain was judged the most highly acceptable
terisation of the LAB predominant in the amasi product although it had a slight malty flavour
(Mutukumira, 1996), the potential of some of these (Mutukumira, 1996). Further tests were carried out
isolates for development as starter cultures (Mutuku- in which the strain Cl was combined with a strain of
mira, 1996; Narvhus et al. 1998) and the chemical Lb. plantarum, and with a strain of Leuc. mesen-
and microbial quality of the amasi (Mutukumira, teroides subsp. mesenteroides. The amasi produced
1995). The chemical quality of the raw milk was by single strain Cl was still the most preferred by a
poor and variable with more than half of the ten sensory panel.
batches of milk studied not meeting the Zimbabwean More work has been done to improve the amasi
regulated minimum standards. The pH values and from strain Cl using either enrichment of the milk
concentration of titratable acid suggested that some with 2.5% (w / v) skim milk or by dry matter
of the raw milk had started to sour before delivery to ultrafiltration then incubating the milk at 22, 30 or
the milk centre as inefficient transport systems were 378C (Narvhus et al., 1998). In this study however, a
used to deliver the milk. The total counts in the different code name INF-DM1 was used for strain
majority of the raw milk were low but the coliform Cl. Both methods markedly improved the viscosity
counts were very high suggesting poor hygiene of the amasi, which was judged to be good and
standards during milk handling (Mutukumira et al., acceptable irrespective of incubation temperature.
1996b). The study however recommended use of skimmed
The chemical composition of the amasi produced milk powder since milk powder is cheap, readily
from this poor quality raw milk was inconsistent as available, stable and can easily be used in a rural
the milk was not standardised and since its process- setting (Narvhus et al., 1998). Strain Cl had further
ing involved whey removal and in some cases desirable characteristics as it was inhibitory to E. coli
addition of cream (Mutukumira, 1995). The mi- a common contaminant of dairy products (Mutuku-
crobiological quality of the amasi was also poor and mira, 1996).
variable as the milk was not pasteurised (Mutuku- From this review, it appears as though there will
mira, 1995). The product variation, presence of high be a single starter culture for the production of a
numbers of coliforms and the observed low product fermented milk whose characteristics are nearer to
yield due to whey drainage clearly indicated the need the traditional amasi in the near future. There is
for improvement to the current process. One way however, need for more work. A Norwegian panel
doing this would be through the development of tested the acceptability of the amasi and more
starter cultures. extensive acceptability tests need to be carried out in
To this end, Mutukumira (1996) isolated 200 Zimbabwe. There is also need to test how scaling-up
lactic acid bacterial strains from the amasi and will affect the properties of the fermented product.
identified them as belonging to the genera Lac- The range of microorganisms studied in amasi so far
tococcus, Lactobacillus, Leuconostoc and Enterococ- may not be exhaustive as yeasts and coliforms may
cus. Twenty one representative strains were further have a role in the fermentation process. The role of
identified to species level as Lact. lactis subsp. lactis, yeasts in traditional fermented milk is therefore
Lact. lactis subsp. lactis biovar diacetylactis, Lb. currently being studied. In addition, it might be
paracasei subsp. paracasei, Lb. plantarum, Lb. necessary to determine the contribution of coliforms
acidophilus, Leuc. mesenteroides subsp. mesen- to the sensory properties of amasi, although they are
teroides, Ent. faecum and Ent. faecalis. Representa- usually undesirable in foods as some of them have
tive strains for the genera Lactococcus, Lactobacillus been associated with food-borne illnesses. When
and Leuconostoc were further studied for their these studies are completed, there might be need to
coagulation of milk, lowering of pH and production further test combinations of strain Cl with the other
of volatile organic compounds. A strain belonging to promising microorganisms as single starter cultures
Lact. lactis subsp. lactis biovar diacetylactis termed are known to be prone to failure due to bac-
10 T.H. Gadaga et al. / International Journal of Food Microbiology 53 (1999) 1 11

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