The professional guide

to laying tiles

For an unbeatable
professional finish!

Rhino house, Chiromo Road, Westlands, P O Box 41908 - 00100, Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 20-2305105 or 0724 096 381
Email info@rhinospecialproducts.co.ke www.rhinospecialproducts.co.ke
The professional guide to laying tiles! The professional guide to laying tiles!

Preparing the surface

Checking the horizontal tile positions
Finding the surface
and making guide rods centres and setting
STEP 12
Now with your guide rod (horizontally) butt the right end

(gauge sticks) out the wall tiles
STEP 1 Divide the wall width by 2 and subtract 4cms (1.6 inches) write down this figure as A. step 11
The next step is to find the horizontal centre of the wall.
STEP 2 Get a straight piece of batten, cut to the length of A (see above) and lay it on the floor.
Measure the wall from top to bottom to find the centre,
STEP 3 Get to hand several tiles and some tile spacers. With the batten in front of you mark the width of a tile mark the position and then use your level to mark the
spacer from the left edge of the batten. position across the whole surface (see fig 1.3).
STEP 4 Now place the top left edge of a tile against the mark you just made.
Do the same for the vertical centre, measure from left to
STEP 5 Leave that tile where it is and butt up another tile with another tile spacer in between. right and mark the centre position, then use the level to
mark the entire surface from top to bottom (see fig 1.3).
STEP 6 Repeat step 5 until you have placed tiles along the whole length of the batten (see fig 1.1).
STEP 7 Next ensuring the tiles and spacers are tight against each other mark the batten with a felt tip pen (or note You can also find the centre spot of a wall by
similar) on both edges of each tile. running string or a chalk line from the top left corner to
the bottom right corner, then the top right corner to the
STEP 8 Then using a set square, mark along the whole width of the batten with a pen (see fig 1.2).
bottom left corner. Where the two meet in the middle is
STEP 9 Now mark your batten in the middle of each tile with a different colour pen (see fig 1.2). the centre.
(with no spacer gap) up against your vertical centre line,
ensure the guide rod is level (see fig 1.4).
If your guide rod is more than a tile width short of the
adjoining wall then mark the left hand edge of the guide
rod. Slide the rod to the left and butt one of the other
tile marks (excluding spacer) up against the mark you just
made (see fig 1.5).
You can now see how much you will have to cut off the last
tile on the left, if you find the gap on the left is too small
then try aligning one of your tile centre lines on your guide
rod with the vertical centre line on the wall.
To find the ideal vertical positioning you can use the same
method as you just used for the horizontal positions.

STEP 10 Next trim the batten at the mark of the last tile on the right (no spacer).

batten fig 1.1 fig 1.2 marks batten

spacers tiles
The professional guide to laying tiles!
Applying tile
adhesive and
installing tiles
APPLYING THE TILE ADHESIVE
step 13
Before mixing your tile adhesive you should calculate how
much you will need (guidance to the coverage is usually
given on the manufacturers instructions) and try not to
make too much at a time.
step 14
Mix your tile adhesive according to the manufacturers
instructions. When ready, apply the adhesive to the wall
using your notched trowel, try to ensure an even coat.
Installing the first ceramic tile
step 15
Now to install the first tile, sit it tight into the corner, then
push it against the wall firmly, use your level to ensure it
is perfectly placed.
Another important check is to place your spirit level
vertically on the face of the tile to ensure it is sitting up
straight.
Place another tile on the wall next to the first, if you are
using tile spacers then insert them inbetween the 2 tiles
to space evenly.
The professional guide to laying tiles!
fig 1.6 Applying tile
adhesive
TileMASTER Tile Adhesive is a water resistant, cement based compound designed to produce
tough and high performance bonding, which ensures quick workability and permanent installation
for various tiles.
TileMASTER Tile Adhesive is cement based, polymer modified with aggregate particles and
chemicals in the interfacial zone. Available in two formulations, 101 for most ceramic tiling and
102 for natural stone, marble, granite and other larger format tiles.
Surface Preparation: The application surface
must be cleaned with water thoroughly. Hacking is not
fig 1.7 required. All dents, cracks and faults must be repaired.
The application surface must be moistened, if the ambient
temperature is high or the surface is exposed to sun and
wind.
Empty a 25Kg bag into a clean basin and add 6.5 - 7 litres
of water to form a homodenous thick paste. Leave the
paste to stand for 10 minutes before application.
TileMASTER Tile Adhesive is applied with a notched
trowel to the application surface to an average thickness
as specified. If the wall or floor is not level, level with the
tile adhesive as needed. Application with a notched trowel
is very important to ensure and even thickness bed nad a
complete coverage of the tile application surface.
The professional guide to laying tiles! The professional guide to laying tiles! fig 1.8

Spacers Measuring and marking

the top, bottom and
edge tiles
Each top tile must be measured individually to ensure a perfect fit, take
TileMASTER Tile Spacers must be used when laying tiles to achieve a uniform grouting gap that a new tile and place it face down on top of the tile in the row beneath
gives an elegant finish. (see fig 1.8).

Tile spacers are available from Rhino Special Products in two sizes 3mm and 5mm. Slide the tile up to the top of the surface, if you want a grout line at
the top then lower the tile a spacers width from the top, also, if you
are using spacers between your rows (grout lines) then leave enough
space when marking the tile.

When you are happy with the position of the tile, use a felt pen to mark
the edge of the tile on both sides using the top of the lower tile for a
guide (see fig 1.8).

Notice we have placed a tick on the piece of tile which is to be used

and an X on the piece to discard, this can avoid getting the tile pieces
mixed up.

If you are measuring and cutting all of the tiles before you start laying
them, then it is a good idea to number them so you know where each
piece of tile goes when you come to lay them.
The professional guide to laying tiles!
Cutting tiles
with a tile
cutter
If you are cutting a lot of tiles then a tile cutter can be invaluable.
Line up the tile by moving the carriage towards you and checking the
position of the blade on your marks at both edges of the tile.
When you are ready to cut, move the carriage to the mark nearest
you. Place the blade (bit) on the edge of the tile, then using a forwards
motion score the tile all the way along.
You should only need to score the tile once (with a decent blade), but
you may find you need to score it again. You will find some tiles score
easier than others, depending on the finish.
Before you snap the tile ensure it is still in position on the tile cutter.
To snap the tile, bring the handle down towards you firmly, and the tile
should snap cleanly.
The professional guide to laying tiles!
How to cut
around pipes
1. Position the tile as shown in fig 1.1 (tile of interest shown in red). Ensure it is aligned correctly fig 1.1
using the other tiles as a guide (dont forget to take into account the tile spacer on the top of
the row of tiles below).
2. Using your felt-tip or pencil mark the tile twice, once level with the top of the pipe and once level top
with the bottom of the pipe (see fig 1.1).
3. Next align the tile as shown in fig 1.2. Line it up with the tile in the row below it, leave enough
room for a spacer between it and what will be the neighbouring tile.
fig 1.2
4. Mark the tile as before except make vertical marks inline with the left and right of the pipe.
5. Mark the top of the tile so you know which way up it will eventually go.
6. Using your set-square lengthen and join the lines as shown in fig 1.3. This will give you a square
which will be the diameter of the pipe. fig 1.3
7. The next step is to draw the circle which will be the circumference of the pipe (fig 1.4). There
are a few ways to achieve this, the easiest being to use an off-cut of the pipe that you are tiling
around. If an off-cut is not available you could use a compass to draw the circumference of the
pipe. Remember that you want to leave a small gap (around 5mm) between the pipe and the
tile, which will be grouted.
8. The next stage is to cut out the circle from the tile, there are several ways to do this.
fig 1.4
The professional guide to laying tiles!
Cutting out
the circle from
the tile
One way is to drill the tile several times within the circle
and then use a tile saw and tile-file to trim the inside of
the circle until you have the desired circumference. (this
option is only suitable when the tile can be slid over the
pipe)
Another option is to cut the tile horizontally into two
pieces, with the cut going straight through the centre of
the circle. After cutting, use the tile saw to remove the
excess tile.
You can use a tile file to perfect the circular cut, when you
are happy with the cut, the next step is to position the
tile (or two pieces of tile depending on which option you
chose to cut the tile).
When you are satisfied that the tile fits nicely around the
pipe, apply tile adhesive either to the surface area or the
back of the tile (whichever you find easier). Firmly place
the tile into position and remove any excess adhesive from
the face and edges of the tile.
Tiling on top
of other tiles
If you want to tile straight on top of the existing tiles, then
remove all of the grease and dirt with a suitable detergent
and score the tiles vertically and horizontally with a tile
scriber to facilitate a bond between the existing tiles and
the new ones.
There are special adhesives available designed specifically
for tiling over tiles, these adhesives can sometimes be
used without scoring the existing tiles.
One thing to bear in mind when considering tiling straight
over existing tiles is that the new tiles will be at least a
tiles thickness proud. This can cause problems when tiling
up to edges like door frames.
In the majority of cases it is better to remove the old tiles
first, it makes the project more time consuming but the
results can be worth the extra
The professional guide to laying tiles!
Applying tile
grout
TileMASTER Tile Grout is a water resistant, non-porous grout based compound designed to
produce high performance bonding to the joints between the ceramic, porcelain, marble, granite
and other types of tiles.
TileMASTER Tile Grout is a cement based polymer modified with various chemical additives. It
is formulated to ensure easy workability. water resistance and protection against cracking.
Surface Preparation: Remove all adhesive
remnants, dirt and forign materials inside the joints of the
coated surfaces after adhesive is dried. Moisten the joints
if the surfaces are exposed to high ambient temperature,
the sun and wind.
Empty a 3Kg bag into a clean pot and add 1 litre of
water at a slow pace, mix well until homogenous paste is
obtained.
TileMASTER Tile Grout is applied with a rubber trowel.
Remove excess grout with moist sponge and smoothen
the surface. Wait for 30 minutes then wipe the surface
with a moist sponge.
 Professional Tiling
Courses

WEEKEND - BASIC Tiling Course

5 DAY - Foundation Course
10 DAY - Tiling Course
4 WEEK - ADVANCED Course

For further details contact:

Rhino house, Chiromo Road, Westlands, P O Box 41908 - 00100, Nairobi, Kenya, Tel +254 20-2305105 or 0724 096 381
Email info@rhinospecialproducts.co.ke www.rhinospecialproducts.co.ke