Amplifier Installation Guide

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Amplier installation guide

How to install an amp in your car
by Crutcheld's Writing Team 48 comments
This overview shows how stereo components connect to an amplier, and how power and signals ow through a typical car
sound system.
This installation guide offers examples of amplier installation types and suggested
system layouts. The installation of your amplier will depend on the make and body
style of your vehicle, as well as the equipment you purchased.
You can also download a pdf version of this Car Amplier Installation Guide
(//images.crutcheldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/pdfs/amp_guide.pdf).
Some notes about wiring:
In addition to installation tools, your amp installation will require power and ground
wiring, RCA cables, speaker wires, and a remote turn-on lead. The easiest way to get
these items is in an amplier wiring kit (//www.crutcheld.com/g_711/Single-
amp-Wiring-Kits.html?tp=635) (available at Crutcheld). Don't forget speaker wires
they're not included in most kits. Make sure you have everything before you begin.
It's also a good idea to measure distances from the amp location to the battery and
receiver, so you know what lengths of wire to get.
1 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Power and ground cable sizes
In order to operate correctly, an amplier needs its power and ground wiring to be
large enough to accommodate its demand for electrical current. What gauge
(thickness) of wire to use for power cabling depends on how much current your
system will try to consume, and on how long the wiring run will be. Your amp's
instructions will include a recommendation on what size wire to use. Or, you can
check out How to determine the best size wire (//www.crutcheld.com/learn
/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html?g=710) for help doing it yourself.
Fuse size
An in-line fuse on the main power cable within six inches or so of the battery
connection is essential for protecting the wire, your car, and you from a catastrophic
re in the event of a short circuit. Each wire manufacturer rates their wire's current
capacity differently, but as a general rule, for a typical 16- to 20-foot run, you'll be
safe using a:
25-amp fuse with 10-gauge wiring

250-amp fuse with 1/0-gauge wiring
Speaker wire size
When running new speaker wires from an amplier to speakers, any size wire from
18- to 14-gauge will work ne. (The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire.) For
subwoofers, use 16- to 12-gauge wires.
Plan the location:
Choosing the location for your amplier according to these guidelines will help your
installation go smoothly:
The amp should be at least three feet from the receiver to avoid noise radiated from the vehicle's
electrical system. The amp can also interfere with the receiver's AM/FM reception.
Do not bolt your amplier directly to your car's metal chassis that's inviting noise problems, like
ground loops which hum or buzz. You could use rubber grommets around the mounting screws to
isolate the case. Or you could mount the amp on a wooden board and attach that to the car body.
An amp produces some heat during operation, which its heatsink absorbs and radiates, so it needs a
few inches of air space around it to stay as cool as possible. When mounting an amp on a side wall,
make sure the ns on the heatsink are vertical. Never mount an amp upside down, as dissipated heat
will radiate back into the amp.
There must be enough room on either side to make the wiring connections and adjust the controls
(gain, crossover, bass boost, etc.).
2 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

A compact subwoofer amplier mounted in an out-of-the-way nook in a trunk with plenty of air space for cooling
Good locations include:

On the rewall (passenger side).
Pros: You can use short wires and patch cords. You won't have to remove a seat or climb into the trunk.
Cons: Only very small amps t here. Close to some common noise sources.
In the trunk or hatch area.
Pros: Plenty of room for large amps. Near the rear speakers.
Cons: You sacrice some cargo space. Longer wires and patch cords are required.
Under a seat.
Pros: Closer to the receiver, so you can use shorter patch cables and signal cables, which are less prone
to noise and signal degradation. Closer to the front speakers, so running wire to them will be easier. No
cargo space sacriced.
Cons: You may have to remove the seat to do the installation. Warning: removing your seat could
deactivate your vehicle's SRS system. Larger amps might not t. You may need to elevate the amp, on a
piece of wood for instance, to avoid contact with water from rain or snow brought in on shoes.
IMPORTANT:
Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for mounting the amp and make sure
it's secure. An amp that isn't secure could break loose in an accident and injure a
passenger as it ies through the vehicle.
Routing wires for components and power connections.
Determine desired locations for each component. Use the most direct route for
wires. Remove panels necessary to route and conceal wires. Test system before
re-installing panels.
All system wiring should be concealed for safety, and to give your installation a nice,
nished look. Wires should be secured so that they do not interfere with safe vehicle
operation. Depending on the vehicle and the location you choose for your amplier,
the wiring for your system may need to be run under the dash, door scuff plate,
pillar trimpanel, or kickpanel. The instructions below address, in general, what panels
may need to be removed and how they typically come off. Often, panels can be pried
up at edges. Screws and retaining clips might also be present that will require
removal (Figure 1). To prevent damage, always use care when removing panels a
panel tool is helpful.
3 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Screws and retaining clips might be present that will require removal
Door scuff plate removal
The plates are usually removed by prying up the edges to release clips. Some vehicles
will have screws present which will need to be removed (Figure 2).
Seat belt removal
A seat belt may be located on a panel that needs to be removed. Most seat belt
anchor covers pry off. The seat belt anchor is secured with a large nut or bolt (Figure
3).
Pillar trimpanel removal
Remove seat belt if present. Remove screw covers, screws, and plastic retaining clips
if present. Pry up edges of panel to remove (Figures 4 & 5).
Kickpanel removal
Look for screws and pry-out retaining clips to remove. Pry out edges of panel to
release and remove (Figure 6).
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Routing wire behind the dash
Route wire behind the dash and secure it with plastic wire ties. Be sure that the wire
doesn't interfere with any moving parts to ensure safe operation of vehicle.
Making the power connections
1. Set the parking brake and disconnect the negative terminal from your battery to
prevent any electrical short.
Route the power wire from your amp wiring kit through a hole in your vehicle's rewall, using a grommet or bushing to
prevent the insullation from scraping against metal.
2. The power wire from your amp wiring kit (usually 16-20 feet in length) needs to run
from the battery, through your car's rewall, through the car's body, usually down
the driver's side, and on to the amp. Find a grommet in the rewall that already has
wires or cables passing through it, and which has enough room for the power wire to
t through too. If you can't nd one, you'll have to drill a hole through the rewall.
Make sure you don't drill into any electrical or gas lines check both sides of the
rewall. Use a grommet to protect your wire from fraying and shorting as it passes
through the hole.
3. The power wire from your amp wiring kit may have a fuse holder installed. If so, go
to step 4. If not, nd a good spot close to your battery to place your fuse-holder
(included in the kit) less than 6" from the battery is best. Be aware: even after a
fuse blows, the short stretch of cable between the battery and the fuse holder will
still be live and a potential re hazard in the event of an accident. Anchor the fuse
holder to a suitable spot with a screw or cable tie, so it won't hang loose or bounce
around.
Cut a short piece off the end of the power wire (to cover the distance from the
battery to the fuse holder location), and strip the insulation off both ends with a wire
stripper. Crimp the terminal ring (included in the kit) onto one end of the short piece
of wire, and attach the fuse holder onto the other end. Strip the insulation off the
end of the power wire that leads into the passenger compartment, and connect it to
the other end of the fuse holder.
5 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Fuse installed on power wire, and secured in engine compartment near the battery.
4. Attach the power cable to the positive battery terminal (not directly to the battery
post itself). For top-mounted battery posts, the most common way to do this is to
crimp a ring terminal onto the end of the power cable (many cables in wiring kits
come with it already attached). Remove the battery terminal's nut, slip the power
cable's ring over the bolt that secures the battery terminal to the battery post, and
replace the nut. For GM vehicles with a side-mount post, we offer terminal adapters
(//www.crutcheld.com/g_713/Battery-Terminals.html?tp=708) that work nicely.
A wire loom provides added protection for your wire against the high heat inside the
engine compartment. If your kit includes a wire loom, thread it over the power cable
until it reaches the rewall and cut to t. Thread another piece over the short power
wire running from the fuse holder to the battery.
The remote turn-on lead
5. Remove the radio from the dash to access the turn-on wire (usually a blue and
white wire). The turn-on wire will "tell" your amplier to turn on whenever the
receiver is powered up (usually, whenever the vehicle is turned on). For step-by-step
instructions on removing your vehicle's radio, see your vehicle-specic Crutcheld
MasterSheet, or read our In-Dash Receiver Installation Guide
(//www.crutcheld.com/Learn/learningcenter/car/car_stereo
/installation_guide.html).
Locate the remote turn-on lead behind your radio (usually a blue and white wire), and connect the turn-on lead from your
amplier wiring kit to it.
Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio and the
turn-on lead that came with your wiring kit and solder them together. Or, you could
6 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

use crimp connectors and a crimp tool, or a Posi-Connector to connect them

together. Wrap the solder or crimp connection with electrical tape (or use heat shrink
tubing) to guard against a short.
The turn-on signal is +12 volts DC. If, like a factory radio, your radio doesn't have a
remote turn-on output, then you can get the turn-on signal from your vehicle's fuse
box. Because of its low current demand, you can connect your turn-on lead to almost
any fused output terminal, like the one for the radio itself for instance, as long as it
only powers up when the vehicle's on.
You'll need to route the turn-on lead to your amplier through the car's body it's
often easiest to route the turn-on wire with the RCA cables (next step) but you can
also route it with the power wire after it passes through the rewall. The power and
RCA cables should run on opposite sides of the vehicle, to reduce noise but it
won't matter for the turn-on lead's low current.
Making the signal connections
6. If your in-dash receiver has preamp (RCA) outputs, connect your RCA patch cables
to them. Route the patch cables to the opposite side of the vehicle from the power
cable. It's important to separate the patch cables from the power wires as much as
possible to avoid potential noise problems. Now you can partially re-install the radio
in the dash (don't push it all the way in, in case you need to x a problem later).
If you're using a factory radio with no RCA outputs, you can get your amplier's input
signals from the factory speaker wiring. The speakers will be getting their signal from
the new amplier which leaves the radio's outputs available to use for the amp's
inputs. There are two ways to do this: get a line output converter
(//www.crutcheld.com/g_721/Line-Output-Converters.html?tp=1276) (LOC)
that'll adjust the speaker-level signal for your amp's input, or get an amplier with
speaker-level inputs. You cut the factory speaker wires, either behind the radio or at
the speakers, and connect the wires coming from the radio to your LOC or amp's
inputs.
Ground: the most important connection of all
7. As near to the amplier's location as possible, nd a bolt to your vehicle's metal

frame to use for ground. If you can't nd a convenient ground screw or bolt, drill a
hole for one be careful not to drill into any wiring, the gas tank, or a gas or brake
line. Crimp a ring terminal (usually included with the amp kit) to the short piece of
ground cable (also in the kit).
Scrape away any paint and clean the bolt location thoroughly, and then bolt the
terminal tightly to the vehicle's metal chassis. Use a lock washer, a star washer, extra
screws, and any other technique or device that'll keep this connection tight, clean,
and electrically conducting. Many people even coat the nal connection with silicone
caulk to prevent corrosion.
Improper or loose grounding is the #1 cause of amplier problems.
7 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Scrape the paint away from the contact point so the ground connection will be bare metal to bare metal.
Amplier mounting and connections
8. After routing the power and signal cables to your chosen location, using the
techniques described previously, mount your amplier in place. Neatly drape or trim
each wire and connect it into its position, making gentle curves with wires when
necessary, not sharp bends that could pinch. Many people cut small slits in their
vehicle's carpeting and run their wires underneath, for stealthy installations that look
factory-neat. A wiring snake (//www.crutcheld.com/p_042DM4533/Pro-Fit-
Wire-Worm.html?tp=996) comes in handy for this. Tape your wires to the snake, sh
it under and through to where you want your wires to go, and pull them on through.
A wiring snake can come in handy for pulling wires to the amp mounting location.
RCA cables routed through slits in the vehicle's carpet, and connected to the amplier's signal inputs.
Speaker wiring
9. Now you have to provide a way for the music to get from your new amp to the
speakers. The best way to do that is to run a new speaker wire from each amplier
8 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

output to each speaker. Use 14- or 16-gauge wire for speakers, 12- or 14-gauge for
subwoofers. Speaker-level signals are not very prone to picking up interference, so
it's okay to run your speaker wires near power cables. You'll have to run each wire for
your door speakers through the rubber gasket or boot around the hinge, to protect
the wires from the weather or from getting pinched in the door. There may be a
Molex plug or a similar obstruction blocking the way, but you can usually nd a place
to drill a hole through it big enough to t your wire through. Cut the factory speaker
wires and connect the new wires directly to each speaker terminal.
It is important that you keep the polarity of your speaker wiring straight. This means
that each positive terminal of the amp connects to a positive terminal of a speaker
and the same goes for the negative wiring. This ensures that your speakers will
operate in mechanical phase all the speaker cones moving the same direction with
the same kind of signal and will sound balanced when playing together. The
positive and negative terminals of each speaker should be labeled, but if not, the
positive terminal will usually be wider than the negative terminal.
Another and possibly more convenient way to send the powered signal from the amp
to your speakers is to run the speaker wires to the harness thats behind your
receiver, where all your cars speaker connections are accessible in one place. You cut
each speaker wire from the receiver's harness and reconnect it to a speaker wire
coming from the amp. Then, the signal can ow from the amp to the speakers by way
of the vehicle's original factory wiring. This technique will work ne in systems with
under 75 watts RMS of power per channel but for more powerful systems it would
be better to run new speaker wire directly from the amp to each speaker.
Firing it up
10. Check all of your wiring, from the battery and receiver to the amp and speakers,
making sure every connection is tight and secure with no stray wire strands laying
out that could cause a short circuit. Especially, check that the ground connection is
tight and secure. Set all the amplier's gains to minimum, and turn off all the lters
and any bass boost or EQ it may have. See that the main fuse is properly installed in
its holder. Then, reconnect your car's negative battery cable.
Turn on your car, then turn on the radio. Verify that the amplier powered up
(there'll be an indicator light on it somewhere). Play some music and turn the volume
up just loud enough to hear. Now verify that sound is coming from each speaker
and/or sub in your system. If everything sounds right, you can nish re-installing the
receiver and all your vehicle's paneling, and then move ahead to step 11.
Troubleshooting
Factory radios and their security codes
If you're using a factory radio, it may need its anti-theft security code reset. If so, you can usually nd the
code and resetting procedure in the vehicle's owner's manual, online, or from a car dealership service
department (be prepared to prove you own the vehicle).
Amplier doesn't power-up
Check the main power wire fuse.

Check the fuses on the amp.
Ensure that the ground cable is connected tightly to an unpainted part of the vehicle's metal chassis.
Test the remote turn-on lead.
Remove the main power wire fuse
Disconnect the remote turn-on lead from the amp.
Connect a short jumper wire between the remote turn-on terminal on the amp and the 12-volt
power terminal, leaving the main power cable connected.
Replace the fuse. If the amp turns on, it means the remote lead is either broken or not connected
correctly. Turn off the system, remove the jumper, and repair the remote lead.
9 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

If the jumper didn't work, you'll need to measure the voltage between the amp's ground and both
the positive power terminal and the remote terminal with a multimeter or voltmeter. Turn off the
system, re-connect the remote lead to the amp, turn the system back on, and make the
measurements. If it reads around +12 volts at both spots, there may be something wrong with the
amplier, and you should return it to your dealer for repair. If you don't read +12 volts at the amp
terminals, you'll have to continue to inspect and repair the power and ground connections.
Amplier comes on but no sound comes from the speakers
Try turning up the amplier's gain a little. Make sure all its lters are off or deactivated.
Check your source. Make sure it's really playing music and not idling. If, for example, only some
speakers aren't playing but others are, it may be that the receiver's fade or balance control isn't set to
the middle. Some receivers have a mute function you'll want to check on that, too. Make sure the RCA
cables are plugged in properly.
Turn the receiver and amp off. Unplug all the RCA cables from the receiver. Turn the receiver and amp
back on. Now, touch the inner pin of one of the RCA plugs with a nger. If the wiring is good, you will
hear a soft hum coming from a speaker. Test all the RCA cables this way. If all the speakers hum, it
means the receiver's not putting out signal and may need to be looked at by a service technician. Or, if
you're using a line output converter, it's not hooked up right. If you hear no humming on any channel,
turn off the receiver and amp and plug the RCAs back in.
With the receiver and amp off, unplug the RCA cables from the amplier's input jacks. Get a short RCA
cable that you know is good and plug it into the amp's input. Turn the receiver and amp on. Touch the
inner pin of the RCA plug at the free end of the cable, and listen for a hum. Test all the amplier's
channels this way. If every channel hums, it means the RCA cables from the receiver are bad and need to
be replaced. If you hear no humming, turn off the system and re-connect the patch cables to the amp
inputs. (Another, better, way to perform this test is to plug a portable music player or phone directly to
the amp's inputs with a mini-to-RCA adapter from the headphone jack, and play music through the
amp.)
Check the speaker wiring. No part of your speaker wiring should touch any part of your vehicle's metal
body that's a short circuit that could damage your amp and speakers. Another place to look for short
circuits is at the amplier's speaker terminals. It's very common to nd a strand or two of stray wiring
touching another wire, causing none of the speakers to work (the amp has sensed a short and shut
down).
Disconnect the speaker wires from the amp. Take a battery, 9 volts or less, and momentarily touch its
poles to the positive and negative wires of a speaker. If the wires and speaker are good, you will hear the
speaker click. Test all the speakers this way. If all the speakers click, it means the amplier has a problem
and probably needs to go in for servicing. If the speakers didn't click, you'll need to repeat this battery
test at each speaker to determine whether the wire or the speaker itself needs to be repaired or
replaced.
Noise: humming, buzzing, or whining
The vast majority of noise problems are caused by bad grounding. If your ground point is free of dirt
and paint and making a good connection to your vehicle's frame, try moving the ground to a different
spot and see if that clears it up.
Actually, any loose wire throughout your car could cause noise, even your battery terminals. Low battery
uid can also be a source of system-wide noise.
The case of your amplier making contact with your vehicle's metal body could cause noise. Any part of
the signal system's negative wiring or shielding that touches the car's metal body could cause noise.
See How to Diagnose and Suppress Noise (//www.crutcheld.com/learn/learningcenter
/car/noise_diagnose.html?showAll=N) for more tips on xing noise problems.
10 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Setting the gain
Setting the amp's gain
11. Setting your amplier's gain, or input sensitivity, matches the amp's input level
with the receiver's output level, resulting in maximum distortion-free music and
minimum background noise.
Start with all the receiver's tone controls, EQ, and presets set to at. Make sure the amp's gain is turned
all the way down and all its lters are off. Play a familiar song.
Turn up the receiver's volume until you hear something distort in the music usually vocals begin to
sound thin and scratchy, and drums start to crackle then turn it down until it sounds good again. You
might have to turn the amp gain up a little bit in order to hear it better. If you don't hear any distortion,
even when the volume's turned up all the way, set the receiver's volume to three-quarters full. Now, turn
up the amp's gain until you hear the music distort, and back it off until it's clean again. If you still don't
hear any distortion, just set it for as loud as you can stand it. Then, you can turn the receiver volume
down to a more comfortable listening level.
The receiver's and amps EQ and crossover lters need to be set to where they normally would be when
you play music. This is so the gain will be set under real-world conditions. Adding boost, for instance, at
any frequency, after setting the gain can make the amp clip, distorting the sound and endangering
speakers and subs. So, set the receiver's EQ, tone controls, bass boost, or presets to achieve the tonality
you like in your music.
Engage and adjust your amplier's high-pass lters to keep bass notes from distorting through
full-range speakers. Engage and adjust a sub amp's low-pass lter to keep high notes from muddying a
subwoofer's bass. If you want to use your sub amp's bass boost, engage and adjust it for tone now.
Repeat the gain-setting procedure. First, turn the amp gain down a bit. Turn up the receiver's volume
until you hear something distort in the music, then turn it down until it sounds good again. If you don't
hear any distortion, even when the volume's turned up all the way, set the receiver's volume to three-
quarters full. Then, turn up the amp's gain until you hear the music distort, and back it off until it's clean
again. If you still don't hear any distortion, just set it for as loud as you can stand it. Then, you can turn
the receiver volume down to a more comfortable listening level.
Enjoy your new system.
Multi-amp installations
When powering multiple ampliers, you run a single heavy-gauge power cable from
your battery to a distribution block (//www.crutcheld.com/g_715/Power-
Distribution-Hardware.html?tp=792), and then connect a lighter-gauge cable from
the block to each amp. This arrangement minimizes potential noise problems and
keeps your installation looking neat. Make sure the main power cable is thick enough
that it can handle the additional current draw of any amps that you might add in the
future.
A good way to ground multiple components is to use a distribution block to organize

the various ground cables into one larger cable that attaches to your vehicle's metal
body. If that's not an option, try to ground all your gear to the same bolt.
If you have three or more components in your system that need remote turn-on
leads, you may need a relay to protect your receiver. That's because the receiver's
turn-on circuit can only supply a limited amount of current. If the components in
your stereo system ask for more current than the receiver can supply, you can burn
out that circuit in your receiver. You wire a relay so that the receiver triggers the relay
to engage, while the turn-on signal comes from another source, like the fusebox, for
instance.
A problem you may encounter
We have assumed you have picked equipment that your car's electrical system can
handle. It would be wildly inappropriate, for example, to try to run 5,000 watts RMS
worth of ampliers in a compact car with a small-capacity alternator. Such a system
would quickly bog down the car's system and eventually burn out the alternator.
11 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Some people, especially competitors, upgrade their alternators to accommodate

their high-power systems.
The symptoms of over-powering include the dimming of lights when bass notes hit. If
your lights dim just a little during heavy bass passages, you might benet by
installing a capacitor (//www.crutcheld.com/g_725/Capacitors.html?tp=739) on
the bass amp's power cable. Otherwise, check out Headlights Dim When the Music
Plays (//www.crutcheld.com/learn/learningcenter
/car/stereo_power_ups.html?showAll=N) to help solve over-powering issues.
Last updated January 03, 2017
48 comments (view/add)
Justin Garrison from Apex, NC

Posted on 5/11/2015 12:11:12 AM
Hi, I installed a powered subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate P300-10) in my 2014 Honda

Accord, and I hear some humming/rumbling when I start my car engine. I kept
the factory stereo, so I had to use a 2-Line Converter to connect the rear speakers
to the RCAs in the subwoofer. When I turn on my car engine, I hear 4 loud
rumbles from the subwoofer, roughly 1 second apart. The car stereo is "off" when
I start the engine, and the sub does not even turn on until the stereo starts
playing music (the sub detects 'audio' in order to power itself on). I do NOT hear
the rumble if I turn the car to Acc/On, it only happens when I start the engine. I
tried sanding down the ground location in my trunk and re-attaching the ground
wire, but that did not x the problem. Any ideas? Is there an "ideal" ground
location in the trunk of a 2014 Accord? Also, I noticed a small spark when I
re-attached the ground wire to the bolt this time. Is that a red ag? Thanks!
Buck Pomerantz from Crutcheld

Posted on 5/11/2015 12:38:01 PM
Justin, Usually when engine noise is heard in a system it's because of a

loose ground or power connection, but other things may contribute.
Check out this article (http://www.crutcheld.com/learn
/learningcenter/car/noise_diagnose.html?showAll=N&
search=how_to_suppress_noise) for help troubleshooting your
problem. Maybe you could try grounding it at a different point. If you
bought your sub from Crutcheld, you could call Tech Support for free
help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on your
invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get
expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on
this link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90/Crutcheld-
Tech-Support-90-day.html?tp=20347) for details.
Clint from Decatur Illinois

Posted on 5/22/2015 8:42:12 PM
Can you describe a installation of a 200W amp on a 2004 Honda Goldwing?

Posted on 5/27/2015 11:25:33 AM
Clint, Sorry but I am unfamiliar with that motorcycle and what systems
would work in it. The Goldwing isn't even in Crutcheld's vehicle
database. You'll need to look for an amplier that's compact and made
12 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

to withstand the outdoor environment - in other words designed for

marine or power sports use. You might nd better suggestions in the
Goldwing Owners Forums (http://www.goldwingowners.com
/forums/).
Bryan from corapeake, NC

Posted on 6/5/2015 12:56:22 AM
i want to add a powered subwoofer to my existing 2008 RAM 1500 4 speaker

system. do i have to go through all of this set up like stuff for that? are there
specic instructions for powered subwoofers?

Posted on 6/5/2015 3:41:14 PM
Bryan, A powered subwoofer sure is more convenient to install than a

separate amplier and sub enclosure, but, except for speaker wiring,
you still have to go through all the same installation steps as you
would for any other amplier.
Robert Riddle from Henderson NV.

Posted on 7/3/2015 2:09:33 AM
Just a thought, there are grommets available for your power wire from battery
through rewall or any metal that when locked make a water proof seal between
the grommet and the metal and also a seal around the power wire. I use a
dielectric grease on all threads and around the wire for a backup to the seals of
the grommet. The grommets are price effective and worth every penny. These are
a compression type tting for a good seal.
Roy Nickerson from port Allegany

Posted on 7/13/2015 11:37:20 PM
I need help I have a vr-3 headunit and a vr-3 amp I have the amp were it will turn
on but im haveing truble with the rca cord I have only one sub hook up and a 2
channel amp I have the y splitter hooked up to the one sub conecter and then
both my rca cords hooked into that and on the amp I have them pluged into the
line in holes and my speakers are hooked up the amp is not running my speakers
I have the out ports and dont know how to hook them up and were to hook them
up

Posted on 7/14/2015 1:03:13 PM
Roy, If you bought your gear from Crutcheld, you could call Tech
Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free
number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment
elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90
days-worth for only $30. Click on this link
(http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90/Crutcheld-
Felix Harvey from Dyer

Posted on 8/11/2015 2:42:38 PM
Adding two amps to my truck next week. One has three 30 amp fuses already
installed and the other has 2 30 amp fuses already installed. Do I need a fused or
unfused power distribution block? I am going to run 0 gauge wire from the
13 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

battery with a 150 amp ANL fuse close to it.

Posted on 8/11/2015 3:17:01 PM
Felix, With the main fuse by the battery and each amplier having its
own onboard fuses, you'll be okay using an unfused distribution
block.
Alvaro Ceballos from West Palm Beach

Posted on 9/17/2015 11:19:18 PM
A JVC KWV41BT head unit, a 4 channel amp for component speakers and an amp
for a subwoofer were installed in my car but I can't seem to tune the EQ for the
speakers and subwoofers separately. I also don't have fader or balance controls;
channeling the sound to either front, back, left, right just doesn't work and the
music still sounds the same intensity from the speakers and subwoofer
regardless. What could be the issue?

Posted on 9/18/2015 10:25:19 AM
Alvaro, I recommend going back to whoever installed the amp, point

out the issues, and try and get them to correct them. It sounds like a
separate RCA cable for each output channel of the receiver was not
installed - although lack of left-right balance control is puzzling. If you
bought your amplier at Crutcheld, you could call Tech Support for
free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on
your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still
get expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click
on this link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90
/Crutcheld-Tech-Support-90-day.html?tp=20347) for details.
Raul Hurtado from BAKERSFIELD

Posted on 12/8/2015 9:47:14 PM
Hello i have a 1998 mercedes e320 and im having trouble trying to install my amp.
Because im trying to keep the original stereo and i dont know where to get the
remote wire. Or the rca wire.

Posted on 12/9/2015 12:41:01 PM
Raul, You'll need to connect your amp's remote turn-on lead to any
12-volt circuit that comes on when the car gets turned on, like the
radio's power terminal in the fuse box or a powered antenna. If your
amplier has speaker-level inputs you could connect them to the
radio's speaker wiring to get input signals. Otherwise you'll need to
get a line output converter to send RCA line-level signals to the amp
from the speaker wiring. If you bought your amplier at Crutcheld,
you could call Tech Support for free help wiring your system. Their
toll-free number is on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment
elsewhere, you can still get expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90
days-worth for only $30. Click on this link
(http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90/Crutcheld-
14 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Chris from Los Angeles

Posted on 12/27/2015 1:30:14 PM
Hi, Gonna run a Rockford fosgate prime 500.1 to one rf p2d4-12 and an rf prime
300.4 to four door kicker door speakers 41-dsc654.. Not too much power..
Question is would it be better to run two separate 4 gauge power kits or run a 1/0
to a distribution block and then 4ga to each amp.. Thank you and happy holidays

Posted on 12/28/2015 2:33:01 PM
Chris, Those two ampliers should be okay using a single 4-gauge wire
from the battery to a distribution block and 8-gauge wires from there
to each amp. Although it won't hurt anything using larger wire,
1/0-gauge wire may be expensive overkill. And one 1/0-gauge wire will
be able to carry about the same amount of current per second as two
4-gauge wires, so only convenience matters as to which way to go for
that.
avery cotton from louisville

Posted on 1/31/2016 4:35:33 AM
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry factory radio , jbl , I need to know what items I need
and instructions for installation wireing guide..
Marc Cozad from Pembroke

Posted on 2/26/2016 4:03:51 PM
I'm thinking about getting a Kenwood KSC-SW1. I just need a little more bass from
the OEM radio. The specs say it has a maximum current consumption of 8.5
amps. The question is, with the power consumption only at 8.5 amps can I hook
the power to the in cabin fuse box? I think the installation manual shows it going
to the fuse box rst. The inline fuse that comes with it is 10a.

Posted on 2/26/2016 4:34:51 PM
Marc, The installation manual for that sub is rather confusing, but I
think it's showing that its switched and constant power wires can hook
up with the wires that power the receiver. That means that it will
probably be alright using the vehicle's fuse box to get power.
David Pagnott from Palm Harbor, Florida

Posted on 3/8/2016 1:07:23 AM
I have a DEH P3100Ub Pioneer deck..I am adding Two RF 501bd amps and two
Punch P3 12" subs,(dual voice coil 4 ohm)(can they be wired to two ohms and
have the amps remain stable?)... plus I am adding a RF 301x 900 4 channel amp
for my speakers.The deck only has two pre-outs and the amps (vintage) dont have
"outs"..so i have to split rca's for the sub amps, and for the 4 channel amp as
well.(is that correct?).I am wiring this to a 98 ford escort zx2 cool coupe..the car is
14.2 feet long..the amps are being mounted in the trunk ..farthest from the
battery as you can get..it just worked out that way......can you give me a list of
exactly what i will need?..including fuses and distribution blocks? Plus wire for
wiring the subs and four speakers..using 4gage for main power and ground and
12 gage wire for subs and 14g for speakers?
Kobe Rourke from California md
15 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Posted on 3/8/2016 4:23:07 PM
Hello, I have a hifonics Brutus 2000.1 anmp and 4 guage wiring kit. The amp
powers on but the subs get no sound from the amp. They are new subs and have
been hooked directly to the head unit and work. And I've switched out all rca
cables. Also I've hooked up an old amp that I knew worked and still had no sound
to subs. Also I have got new speaker wire from the amp to the subs. Any
responses would be greatly appreciated

Posted on 3/10/2016 9:17:41 AM
Kobe, A list of what may be wrong is long. Here are some things to
check for: Is the subwoofer output of your receiver turned on? Is the
ground wire absolutely secure - bare metal-to-bare metal contact? Is
the amp seeing less than a 1-ohm load? Is any speaker wire touching
the car's metal frame or another wire? If you bought your amp from
Crutcheld, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting
your system. Their toll-free number would be on your invoice. If you
purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert
Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this
link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90/Crutcheld-
Nick Looper from Waskom

Posted on 3/27/2016 11:57:35 AM
I'm having some kind of trouble with my truck. I recently installed a amp problem
and sub that I purchased from yall. Somehow, it caused my body control module
to go out and have to be replaced by the ford dealership and suggested advice?

Posted on 3/28/2016 3:03:38 PM
Nick, Call Crutcheld Tech Support for help and advice. Their toll-free
number is on your invoice. If you can't nd it, you can still contact
them via phone - just click on the phone icon at the very top of this
page for information.
Todd Trap from Kentwood

Posted on 4/13/2016 8:13:39 PM
Hello. I have a single cab pick-up truck. So far the system I'm putting together
includes: Pioneer FHX820BS receiver, Polk Audio DB651s door speakers, JL Audio
Microsub CP106Lg-W3v3 6.50 Subwoofer and Kicker CX300.1 mono amp. I was
originally going to run the door speakers off of the head unit but now want to add
a 2-channel amp. I want to purchase the Kicker DXA125.2 2-channel amp (30
watts RMS x 2). What would be the best way to wire up up both of these amps? I
was thinking about getting the EFX PAD 8BX Wiring Kit (for adding second amp) to
go along with my current EFX 8 gauge wiring kit. Neither amp has an on board
fuse and they both need a 40 amp fuse at the battery. I'm a little confused on
how to use the wiring kit for adding the second amp. Would I use one 80 amp
fuse at the battery and two 40 amp fuses in the distribution block? Can I splice
into the remote wire from the other amp without any problems? Or am I better
off just running a single power wire from each amp (one 40 amp fuse on each) to
the battery and running two separate remote wires from the receiver to the
amps? Just looking for the easiest way to do this.
16 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.


Posted on 4/14/2016 12:35:30 PM
Todd, As long as you don't plan on any power upgrades in the near
future, you should be ne using one 8-gauge power wire from your
battery to a distribution block. Make sure to install a 60-amp fuse near
the battery - most manufacturers rate their 8-gauge wire to carry up
to 60 amps before failing, and you want the fuse to blow before the
wire and your car burn up in the event of a short circuit. Using a fused
distribution block with two 40-amp fuses, or installing them inline
after the block, will further protect your amps and installation.
James Wymer from Baltimore

Posted on 5/7/2016 6:58:31 PM
I am installing a kicker 1200 watt amp and I bought a converter because I am

using factory radio. How do I exactly hook the converter up. Do I have to use both
sets of wires to hook to the speakers or is 1 sucient?

Posted on 5/9/2016 12:00:00 PM
James, Even if it didn't come with instructions, if you bought your line
output converter at Crutcheld, you could call Tech Support for free
help wiring your system. Their toll-free number would be on your
invoice. Even if you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can
still get expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30.
Click on this link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90
Sean from warwick

Posted on 6/14/2016 5:06:44 PM
Hello. Can i mount my amp ....( with plastic mounting holes) to the cats mettal
chassis. I.e. under the back window dash in trunk. I knkw about heat gojng up
thats why i also have 2 seperate DC fans blowing over amp to help cool

Posted on 6/15/2016 11:45:45 AM
Sean, Unless your amplier's installation instructions specically state

that you can, you should never mount an amp upside down. Internal
heat owing the wrong way could cause damage. And mounting an
amp with its metal case making electrical contact with your vehicle's
chassis could set up a ground loop, causing noise. One way to prevent
this is to mount a piece of wood to the car's body, and then secure the
amp to the wood.
Shaun
Posted on 6/19/2016 4:50:22 AM
Hello Buck, In the rst picture, it's showing that both RCA and Power cables are
using the same side of the vehicle to connect to the Amp. But I heard that they
should be connected in parallel to the Amp to avoid any noise. What's your take
on this? I recently had my $2000 ICE done which unfortunately making a
hissing/buzzing noise. I have an appointment with the installer for the same.
Meanwhile, striking my head against all the odds. Thanks!
17 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.


Posted on 6/20/2016 9:53:25 AM
Shaun, That overview diagram is more of a general guide than an

exact wiring schematic. Most guides do recommend running the
power and signal wiring along opposite sides of a vehicle to avoid
induced interference, although many people run them together with
no problem. Most noise problems, however, come from inadequate
grounding.
Mark from Greenville

Posted on 7/5/2016 9:20:53 PM
Just installed the Sound Ordnance B-8PTD and so far it sounds great! However it
pops when I turn the stereo on AND off. I know this isn't normal, but not sure
what to do about it. Kenwood KDC-BT365U head unit.

Posted on 7/6/2016 12:35:17 PM
Mark, Not knowing how your powered sub is wired to your system or
how it powers up make it dicult to troubleshoot your issue.
Fortunately you should be covered by Crutcheld's lifetime tech
support for our customers. Give them a call. Their toll-free number is
on your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can
still get expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30.
Click on this link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90
Anthony Price from Easley

Posted on 8/29/2016 11:10:12 PM
I am not getting an sound through my amp in CD mode or aux mode but when in
radio mode it works ne.have Sony explode deck Sony 1200 amp and 2 explode
10" subs

Posted on 8/30/2016 1:45:19 PM
Anthony, It sounds to me like your receiver's defective, or I'm not

understanding your issues. If you bought any of your gear from
Crutcheld, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting
your system. Their toll-free number is on your invoice. If you
purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still get expert
Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click on this
link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90/Crutcheld-
Adam from Cincinnati

Posted on 9/3/2016 5:20:09 PM
Hey my name is Adam I hooked up a 1300 wat APM to my old mobile Alero go and
with 1600 watt wires and it keeps kicking off the APM if I turn the bass even up to
-3

Posted on 9/6/2016 10:10:51 AM
Adam, If you want a question answered about your system, you must identify all
18 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

your equipment by brand names and model numbers.
ALMARIE from Springdale

Posted on 10/17/2016 11:18:57 PM
I need help badly. I have a 2008 mercury milan I need to hook up a L7 speaker
and my BOSS AMP help step by step
Martin
Posted on 10/18/2016 3:03:02 AM
I have got only 1 important comment the power wire and the ground wire should
both be connected to the battery if you connect the ground wire to the chassis
the current will have to ow through the chassis and nd it's way through the
pointwelds . or maybe worse the current may ow through other wiring in your
car This will eventually give electrical problems to your electrical circuit and may
or will even ruin your car i have been working with car audi / and pro audio for
over 20 year and have seen some very expensive cars being ruined this way

Posted on 10/18/2016 1:53:33 PM
Almarie, If this Installation Guide or its PDF version don't help you,
maybe you would benet from getting a professional to do the
installation. Crutcheld offers an amplier InstallCard
(http://www.crutcheld.com/p_597421003/InstallCard-Amp-or-
Equalizer.html?tp=962) and a subwoofer InstallCard
(http://www.crutcheld.com/p_597421037/InstallCard-
Subwoofer.html?tp=1288) that'll let your local car audio installer get
the job done right. Or, if you still want to do it yourself, you can
purchase some expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for
only $30. Click on this link (http://www.crutcheld.com
/p_000TECH90/Crutcheld-Tech-Support-90-day.html?tp=20347) for
details.
Chelsea keelin from Ashland ky

Posted on 10/21/2016 4:30:33 PM
Why is there no sound coming out of low pass only plays in full pass?

Posted on 10/24/2016 10:27:44 AM
Chelsea, When its low-pass lter is engaged, an amplier will only play
notes lower than the crossover frequency. Perhaps whatever music
you're listening to has no information down there.
Liza from Kingsville

Posted on 12/2/2016 4:52:50 PM
Hello, there isn't any sound coming out of speakers at all. No chiming when doors
are open or when blinker is on or when radio is on. I've been told that more than
likely I need to replace amplier but have no clue where it's even located in my
vehicle. I have a 2011 Chevy traverse. Fuses have been checked and all fuses are
good. Would you happen to know where the amplier on my vehicle is located.I'd
hate to purchase a brand new amplier and that not be the problem. Thanks in
advance. Liza
19 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.


Posted on 12/5/2016 9:40:26 AM
Liza, If you're having trouble with a factory system, you'll have to go to

an auto repair shop that can handle electrical problems. If you've had
an aftermarket receiver installed, it had to have a special factory
integration wiring harness in order to work in your vehicle. If you
bought the receiver from Crutcheld, you could call Tech Support for
free help troubleshooting your system. Their toll-free number is on
your invoice. If you purchased your equipment elsewhere, you can still
get expert Crutcheld Tech Support - 90 days-worth for only $30. Click
on this link (http://www.crutcheld.com/p_000TECH90
Raul from Houston

Posted on 1/8/2017 8:02:04 PM
I want to install a Kenwood KAC-M1824BT amplier on my 1972 Dodge Dart. It has

no factory radio and the fuses are the glass type. Where would I hook up the
power control wire? Could I splice it to the wire going to the gas sender?

Posted on 1/9/2017 1:09:59 PM
Raul, Even if your car doesn't have a radio, it probably still has a fused
circuit for one in the fuse box, that deactivates when the car is turned
off. Try identifying which circuit that is and connect to that for the
amplier's power control signal.
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Amplifier Installation Guide

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Amplifier Installation Guide

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Amplier installation guide

Some notes about wiring:

1 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Power and ground cable sizes

25-amp fuse with 10-gauge wiring

Speaker wire size

Plan the location:

2 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Good locations include:

Routing wires for components and power connections.

3 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Door scuff plate removal

Seat belt removal

Pillar trimpanel removal

4 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Routing wire behind the dash

Making the power connections

5 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

The remote turn-on lead

6 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

use crimp connectors and a crimp tool, or a Posi-Connector to connect them

Making the signal connections

Ground: the most important connection of all

7. As near to the amplier's location as possible, nd a bolt to your vehicle's metal

Improper or loose grounding is the #1 cause of amplier problems.

7 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Amplier mounting and connections

8 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Factory radios and their security codes

Amplier doesn't power-up

Check the main power wire fuse.

9 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Amplier comes on but no sound comes from the speakers

Noise: humming, buzzing, or whining

10 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Setting the gain

Setting the amp's gain

Enjoy your new system.

A good way to ground multiple components is to use a distribution block to organize

A problem you may encounter

11 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

Some people, especially competitors, upgrade their alternators to accommodate

Last updated January 03, 2017

Justin Garrison from Apex, NC

Hi, I installed a powered subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate P300-10) in my 2014 Honda

Buck Pomerantz from Crutcheld

Justin, Usually when engine noise is heard in a system it's because of a

Clint from Decatur Illinois

Can you describe a installation of a 200W amp on a 2004 Honda Goldwing?

Buck Pomerantz from Crutcheld

12 of 22 12-01-2017 11:22 p.m.

to withstand the outdoor environment - in other words designed for

Bryan from corapeake, NC

i want to add a powered subwoofer to my existing 2008 RAM 1500 4 speaker

Buck Pomerantz from Crutcheld

Bryan, A powered subwoofer sure is more convenient to install than a

Robert Riddle from Henderson NV.

Roy Nickerson from port Allegany

Buck Pomerantz from Crutcheld

Felix Harvey from Dyer