Lonely Planet Publications

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
452 lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N T HA I L A N D H i s t o r y 453

Northeastern FAST FACTS

ern Thailand. The name comes from Isana,
the Sanskrit name for the early Mon-Khmer

Thailand Best Time to Visit November to

February
kingdom that flourished in what is now north-
eastern Thailand and Cambodia. After the 9th
century, however, the Angkor empire held
Population 22 million
sway over these parts and erected many of
the fabulous temple complexes that pepper
the region today.
For most travellers, and many Thais, the northeast is Thailands forgotten backyard. Isan (or History Until the arrival of Europeans, Isan re-
san), the collective name for the 19 provinces that make up the northeast, offers a glimpse The social history of this enigmatic region mained largely autonomous from the early
of the Thailand of old: rice fields run to the horizon, water buffaloes wade in muddy ponds, stretches back at least 5600 years, to the hazy Thai kingdoms. But as the French staked out
silk weaving remains a cottage industry, peddle-rickshaw drivers pull passengers down city days when the ancient Ban Chiang culture the borders of colonial Laos, Thailand was
started tilling the regions fields with bronze forced to define its own northeastern bounda-
streets, and, even for those people whove had to seek work in the city, hearts and minds tools. ries. Slowly, but surely, Isan would fall under
are still tied to the village. This colossal corner of the country continues to live life on its Thais employ the term san to classify the the mantle of broader Thailand.
own terms: slowly, steadily, and with a profound respect for heritage and history. region (phak san), the people (khon san) Long Thailands poorest area, the northeast
and the food (aahan san) of northeast- soon became a hotbed of communist activity.
If you spend even just a little time here youll start to find as many differences as similari-
ties to the rest of the country. The language, food and culture are more Lao than Thai, with NORTHEASTERN THAILAND 0 100 km
0 60 miles
hearty helpings of Khmer and Vietnamese thrown into the melting pot. Ban Ahong
Beung Kan VIETNAM
LAOS
Pak Khat Wat
And spend time here you should. Isan saves its finest surprises for those with the patience NONG Phu Tok Phu Wua
Wildlife
See p489
KHAI 222 Sanctuary
to come looking for them: Angkor temple ruins pepper the region, superb national parks See p502 Sangkhom
VIENTIANE Phon
Pak Chom 212 Phon Ban Phaeng
protect some of the wildest corners of the country, sleepy villages host some of Thailands Xanakham
Nam
Tha
Bo
Phisai Charoen
212
Chiang Nong
Som
wildest celebrations and the scenery along parts of the Mekong is often nothing short of Khan
Ban Pak Huay
Khai Sang
Khom Wanon
2 Ban Chaiburi/Nam Song Si
Tha Li LOEI Niwat
amazing. Thailands tourist trail is at its bumpiest here (English is rarely spoken), but the Phu Reua
Ban
Pheu Sawan
NAKHON
PHANOM
National Park Loei Udon Ban Dan Din
fantastic attractions and daily interactions could just end up being highlights of your trip. Phu Reua
Na Duang
Tham Erawan
Thani Chiang Phang Khon Nakhon Tha Khaek
201 22 Phanom
Wang Saphung 210 Na Klang Chaiwan SAKON NAKHON 22
Phu Phu Luang Nong Sakon 212 13
Bualamphu Renu
Luang National Park NONG UDON THANI Nakhon Nakhon LAOS
(1571m) Kut Bak
Phu Kradung BUALAMPHU 223 That

Mekong River
Phu Phan Phanom
National Park Si Buan Non Sa At Wang National Park
Phu Ruang Sam Mo
Lom Nam Nao Kheuan Talat Klang Huay Huat
Kradung Dong Sang National Park
Sak National Park Lam Pao
Si Chompu 213 Kaw 9
Ubon 212
See p480 MUKDAHAN
Ratana KALASIN
KHON KAEN Mukdahan Savannakhet
Kheuan Chumphae 12
Chulaphon Khon Kalasin Nong Sung
Ban Kaen Mukdahan
HIGHLIGHTS Phu
Khiaw
Fang Kamalasai
Phon Thong National Park
Kaset Sombun 2 208 Loeng 13
201 Mahasarakham Pha Nam Yoi Kok Tha
Seeking elephants, tigers, monkeys and CHAIYAPHUM
Tat Ton Chonabot Borabeu
Reserve National Park Khemmarat
National Park 23
AMNAT CHAROEN
more in the mountainous forests of Khao Nong Bua Nok Nam Ban Phai
219
Borabeu
Roi Et
Selaphum
Daeng Nong Wang YASOTHON 212 202 Lakhon
Yai National Park (p464) Chiang Khan Sala Kaew Ku Reserve
sculpture park Prasat Peuay Noi ROI ET Pha Tiu Amnat Charoen Pheng
225 Chaiyaphum MAHASARAKHAM Yasothon Phra That
Soaking up Isans Angkor-era stone age Phu Kradung
202
Phon
Kong Khao Phana
National Park Na Pho Suwannaphum 202 Noi
while wandering through the restored 201 Bua Yai Ku Phra Koh Na
202 Kaeng Tanna
temple complexes of Phanom Rung (p468), Nong Bua
Khong 2 Phisai
214
Mu
n
23 National Park
Khok am Khuang
eN Ubon Khong
Phimai (p461) and Prasat Khao Phra Wihan 205 M a
Rasi
Nai
Ratchathani Jiam
Sateuk
(p545) See p461 NAKHON Phimai
Ban Tha
Klang
Salai Warin Phibun
RATCHASIMA 219 Chamrap Mangsahan Chong
Chom Phra
Watching the Mekong drift by in the sopo- Nakhon Ratchasima Ban Khwao Prasat Si Saket Kheuan Mek
(Khorat) Sinarin Sikhoraphum Sirinthon
rific riverside village of Chiang Khan (p507) Phimai Kheuan
Buriram Det Udom
Lam Ta Sung Noen Surin Ban Janrom SI SAKET
BURIRAM Buntharik
Succumbing to the surreal in Nong Khais Phanom
Khong 2
214 SURIN
Pak Thong 24 UBON
Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park (p493) Khao Yai Rung Chai 24 Nang Prasat Sangkha
Pak Chong Kantharalak RATCHATHANI
National Park 304 Rong Prakhon Prasat Hin
Prasat Khao Phra Ban Phluang Prasat Khao Phra
Climbing, and climbing some more, then Wihan National Park Khao Yai
Pa
Kham Phanom
Chai
Kap Choeng Wihan National
Phu Chong Nayoi
National Park
Park See p540
finally soaking up the beauty from atop Phu National Park
Thap Lan See p470
Rung Khao Phra
National Park Prasat Phnom Bach Wihan
Kradung National Park (p504) PRACHINBURI 348 Ta Meuan (581m)
CAMBODIA Phu Khok Yai
Prachinburi Khao Chong Tako (753m)
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
454 N O R T H E A S T E R N T HA I L A N D H i s t o r y
Ho Chi Minh spent 1928 to 1929 proselytis-
ing in the area, and in the 1940s a number of
Indochinese Communist Party leaders fled to
Isan from Laos and helped bolster Thailands
Communist Party. From the 1960s, until an
amnesty in 1982, guerrilla activity was rife in
Isan, especially in the provinces of Buriram,
Loei, Ubon Ratchathani, Nakhon Phanom and
Sakon Nakhon. But growing urbanisation drew
many peasants to the cities and the various
insurgencies evaporated in the glare of Thai-
lands boom years. Not everyone has benefited
though, and the per capita income in Isan is
less than one-third of the national average.
Climate
Northeastern Thailand experiences a three-
season monsoonal climate, with a relatively
cool dry season from November to late Febru-
ary, followed by a hot dry season from March
to May (when temperatures can climb to over
40C) and then a hot rainy season from June
to October. The Loei Province experiences the
most extreme climactic conditions, with both
the hottest temperatures and the coldest
its one of the few places in Thailand where
temperatures dip below zero.
National Parks
Northeastern Thailand has 24 national parks
and 21 forest parks. Khao Yai (p464) is its
most impressive, covering much of the largest
intact monsoon forest in mainland Asia. Other
highlights include Phu Kradung (p504) for its
wildlife watching and high-altitude hiking;
Nam Nao (p481) with its dense forest and
unspoilt landscapes; Phu Chong Nayoi (p540),
one of Thailands remotest corners; and Phu
Wiang (p481), a must for dinosaur lovers.
Information on all of Thailands national
parks and an online booking service can be
found at www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve. You can
also book camp sites and bungalows through
the reservations office (%0 2562 0760; reserve@dnp
.go.th). Most lodging can also be reserved by
calling the park directly, though you wont
always get hold of someone who speaks
English.
Language & Culture
Isan language and culture are melting pots of
Thai, Lao and Khmer influences. The Khmers
left behind Angkor Watlike monuments
across much of the region, but particularly
in the Surin, Si Saket, Buriram and Khorat
Provinces, while Lao-style temples most
notably Wat Phra That Phanom are the
norm along the Mekong River. Many of the
people living in this area speak Lao (which is
very similar to the Isan language) as their first
language, and, in fact, there are probably more
people of Lao heritage in Isan than in all of
Laos. Many villages in the far south still speak
Khmer as the primary language.
The people of Isan are known by other
Thais for their friendliness, work ethic and
sense of humour flip through stations on
the radio and you will hear many DJs laugh-
ing at their own jokes. Respect and hospitality
towards guests is a cornerstone of Isan life
and most villagers, plus plenty of city folk,
still pride themselves on taking care of other
people before themselves. The best food is
usually reserved for monks and guests, and if
you get invited to a village home your hosts
will almost certainly kill one of their chick-
ens to feed you (vegetarians should speak up
early). Isan people are less conservative than
most Thais, but short shorts and spaghetti-
strap tops will earn a lot more stares than
most other places in Thailand because of the
scarcity of tourists here.
Though this is by far Thailands poorest
region, based on a new government Well-
Being Index, the people of the northeast are
the nations happiest. A strong sense of com-
munity and close family ties are the main
reasons cited, but it also stems from the fact
that the people of Isan seek happiness from
the inside, not from what they own. In the
villages you can almost never tell who is rich
and poor because big homes and fancy clothes
garner no respect.
The regions music is born out of a distinc-
tive folk tradition and uses instruments such
as the khaen, a reed instrument with two long
rows of bamboo pipes strung together; the
ponglang, which is like a xylophone and made
of short wooden logs; and the phin, a type of
small three-stringed lute played with a large
plectrum. The most popular song form is the
luk thng (literally, children of the fields),
which is far more rhythmic than the classical
styles of central Thailand.
The best silk in Thailand is said to come
from the northeast, particularly Chaiyaphum,
Khon Kaen, Surin and Nakhon Ratchasima.
Cotton fabrics from Loei, Nakhon Phanom
and Udon Thani are also highly regarded.
The defining style uses mt-mi methods (see
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E 455
EATING ISAN
Isans culinary creations are a blend of Lao and Thai cooking styles that make use of local ingredi-
ents. The holy trinity of northeastern cuisine ki yang (grilled chicken), sm-tam (papaya salad)
and kho naw (sticky rice) is integral to the culture and reminisced like lost lovers by displaced
Isan taxi drivers in Bangkok. Also essential are chillies, and a fistful of potent peppers find their
way into most dishes, especially lap, a super-spicy meat salad originating from Laos. Kaeng om
has more in common with tm-yam than with typical Thai curries as it has plaa ra (a popular
fermented fish sauce that looks like rotten mud) instead of coconut and sugar. It is sometimes
served with glass noodles, but even then its still meant to be eaten with rice.
Except at food stalls and the cheapest restaurants, fish dominates Isan-specific menus with plaa
dk (catfish), plaa chawn (striped snake-head) and plaa bu (sand goby) among the most popular
dishes. These are mostly caught in the Mekong and a few other large rivers. Fish that families
catch themselves are usually small sometimes so tiny theyre eaten bones and all because
they come from streams and rice paddies; as do crabs, frogs and eels. Plaa buk (giant Mekong
catfish) is the most famous fish associated with the northeast, but it is almost never eaten here
because it costs too much.
To Westerners and other Thais nothing stands out in Isan cuisine like insects. Even as recently
as the 1970s insects composed a large part of the typical familys diet, though it became a fading
tradition when the government promoted chicken and pig farming, thus lowering the prices of
these now popular meats. Though the younger generations dont bite bugs all that often anymore,
they are still very common as snacks and chilli-sauce ingredients. Purple lights shining out in the
countryside are for catching giant water bugs, and these, along with crickets, grasshoppers, cicadas,
non maiphai (bamboo worm) and more, are sold in most municipal and many night markets. In fact,
there is still enough of a demand that imports come from Cambodia. Thailand has no shortage of
silkworm larvae, which, after they are popped into the boiling water to remove the silk, are popped
into the mouth for a literal taste explosion try one and youll see what we mean.
box text, p473) in which threads are tie-dyed Getting Around
before weaving. Most large stores stock some If you have time on your side, travelling in the
fabrics naturally dyed using plant materials, northeast is rarely a problem: all large- and
an old process being revived across Isan: some medium-sized towns are linked by bus or train,
shops in Khon Kaen and Ubon Ratchathani and swngthew (pick-up trucks) services go
specialise in these. Prices for fabrics can be on to most, but not all, of the smaller villages
20% to 30% cheaper (more than 50% for and temple complexes. If you are short on time,
less-common fabric styles) in the weaving however, remember that distances are large in
villages than in Bangkok shops, though fin- this part of Thailand and buses are often slow.
ished clothes cost about the same. Another Consequently, if time is of the essence and you
handicraft speciality of the northeast is mwn plan to visit the regions more remote sites, a
khwan (literally, axe pillow), a stiff triangle- rental car or motorcycle will save a great many
shaped pillow used as an arm support while headaches and let you see much more of the
sitting on the floor. Sticky-rice baskets also region with your available time. There are very
make good souvenirs. few flights between cities in the northeast; you
generally need to connect through Bangkok.
Getting There & Away
The main train and bus lines in the northeast
are between Bangkok and Nong Khai, and
between Bangkok and Ubon Ratchathani. The
NAKHON RATCHASIMA
northeastern region can also be reached from
northern Thailand by bus through Phitsanu-
PROVINCE
lok, with Khon Kaen as the gateway. Most Silk and stone are the cornerstones of the Na-
of the major centres are also connected to khon Ratchasima tourist industry and it is
Bangkok by air. well worth dipping an inquisitive toe into both
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
456 N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a ( K h o r a t ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a ( K h o r a t ) 457

facets of the regions heritage. First up, history NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KHORAT) by the countrys booming tourist industry, goes POST
aficionados should soak up the stone remains o%iik(lu}kZF%ik(X on in its own uncompromising way. Post office (Th Jomsurangyat; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-
of the regions Angkor-period heyday. Khmer pop 215,000 Fri, 9am-noon Sat & holidays)
temples dating from this time still pepper the Khorat doesnt wear its heart on its sleeve. Information
province and while many have been reduced Touch down in the brash gateway to the EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES TOURIST INFORMATION
to amorphic piles of rubble, the restored com- northeast and only those sporting a hefty set Ratchasima Hospital (%0 4426 2000; Th Mittaphap) TAT (Tourist Authority of Thailand; %0 4421 3666;
plex of Prasat Phimai provides an evocative of rose-tinted specs will be reaching for their Tourist police (%1155; Th Chang Pheuak) Opposite www.tourismthailand.org; 2102-2104 Th Mittaphap;
glimpse of times past. If youre a fashionista, camera as they step off the bus. A bumper bus terminal 2. h8.30am-4.30pm) Has information about Khorat,
you should explore the regions silk-weaving dose of urban hubbub reflects the citys grow- Buriram, Surin and Chaiyaphum Provinces.
industry in Amphoe Pak Thong Chai, Thai silk ing affluence and Khorats one-time historic INTERNET ACCESS
weavings spiritual home. Some of the coun- charm has been largely smothered under a Net Guru (%0 4425 7441; Th Phoklang; per hr 20B; Sights
trys best cloth comes out of this area. duvet of homogenous development. h24hr) MAHA VIRAVONG NATIONAL MUSEUM
Top it all off by getting deep into the jun- Khorat is a city you grow to know. Distinctly rbrbT#yIRl$kocsj'(k^b}sk;ui;'LN
gle at Khao Yai, Thailands oldest national Isan, with a strong sense of regional identity, MONEY Despite an interesting collection of Khmer
park and newest World Heritage site. Its one this busy centre is at its best in its quieter nooks Siam Commercial Bank (Th Mittaphap; h10.30am- and Ayuthaya-period artefacts, including
of the best wildlife-watching destinations in (inside the east side of the historic moat, for 8pm) At the Mall. Many more banks, also with ATM and stone and bronze Buddhas, woodcarvings
Southeast Asia. example), where Thai life, largely untouched exchange services, in the city centre open regular hours. from an ancient temple and various domestic

0 500 m
NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KHORAT) 0 0.3 miles

To Khon Kaen (198km); To Phimai

A B C D 39
E Nong Khai (356km) F G H (60km)

5 Stadium
INFORMATION
Net Guru................................1 F2 2

Th Chang Phuak
Post Office.............................2 F3

uak
1 Ratchasima Hospital...............3 B2 1

Phe

ri
Siam Commercial Bank......(see 34) Mae

na
ra
TAT.......................................4 A3 Nam Mun

Su
ng
Cha
Tourist Police..........................5 E1

Th
Mae Nam Mun

Th
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Chumphon Gate..................(see 8)
City Pillar...............................6 G2 3 34
Maha Viravong National 2 Th Mittaphap Th Mittaphap
Museum.............................7 F3 Pratu Pholsaen

Th Burin
Thao Suranari Memorial.........8 F2 18 Th Phonsaen
Soi Sawai Riang

Th Ratchadamnoen

Th Chumphon
Trok

To Wat

dan
rai

Wat Pa Salawan.....................9 B3

Th Prajak
Th Salaloi
Trok Samo

Th Chakkri
Wat Phra Narai Maharat..... 10 G2 38

Th Ku
Th Yommarat (500m)

Th Manat
Kingjan
SaoThanonong

22

Th Phonlan
2 29 2
Th Sura 41
20 nari 16
42

Th YoThano

Th Thanonaos
19 33 Th Atsadang
26
12 17 10
an ari Th Phoklan
g 8 Pratu
Sur

na
15 37 Phollan

Th Kudan
Chinese 6

Th Buarong
Th 14
Temple 1 28 Th Chumphon
Th

ura
Soi Lampru am ontri Jom 32 36 Wat Boon
Th Mukkh sur
11 21
Nakhon 2

Th Chainarong
an Th Mahat Thai
Ratchasima gy
at

Th W
Th Jomsurangyat 30
(Khorat)
27
Th Mukkhamontri

acha
7 35 24 Th Saphasit
Ming Ter................................28 F2
i
Th Seup Sir

rasari
SLEEPING Rabiang Pa............................ 29 G2
3 Chophaya Inn.........................11 F3 40 3

t
Soi 4 23 25 Th Kamhaeng Songkhram
4 13 Chumphol Hotel.....................12 F2 ENTERTAINMENT Pratu Chainarong
Doctor's House......................13 A3 Fun Wonderful.......................30 F3 Th Ratchanikun
9 Fah Thai Hotel........................14 F2 Rachaphruk Grand Hotel.......(see 18)
31 To Dan Kwian (15km);
Iyara Hotel.............................15 H2 Sima Thani Hotel................... 31 A3 Buriram (120km);
Korat Hotel............................16 G2 Surin (170km);
Potong Hotel..........................17 F2 SHOPPING Ubon Ratchathani (320km)
Soi 3
Rachaphruk Grand Hotel........18 E2 Klang Plaza 2..........................32 F3
Th Mittaphap

Srivijaya Hotel........................19 F2 Mae Gim Hang Market..........33 F2

Chum
Tokyo Hotel Mansion.............20 E2 Mall....................................... 34 C2 Thang
Salagrang Market...................35 F3
EATING Thanon Manat Night Bazaar...36 G3
Anego....................................21 F3 Wat Boon Night Bazaar..........37 H2
Big Chili..................................22 F2
4 Cabbages & Condoms...........23 A3 TRANSPORT 4
Chez Andy.............................24 G3 Bus Terminal 1........................38 E2
Kai Yang Seup Siri..................25 A3 Bus Terminal 2........................39 E1
Kai Yang Wang Fa..................26 F2 Buses to Dan Kwian............... 40 H3
To Pak Thong Klang Plaza 2......................(see 32) Local Bus Stop........................41 F2
Chai (35km); Ling Lao Cheu........................27 E3 Motorcycle Rental..................42 E2
Bangkok (250km)
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
458 N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a ( K h o r a t )
utensils, chances are you will have this in-
teresting little museum (%0 4424 2958; Th Ratch-
adamnoen; admission 10B; h9am-4.30pm Wed-Sun) to
yourself. It is hidden away in the grounds of
Wat Sutchinda.
THAO SURANARI MEMORIAL
vo=lk;iupNmhk;l=iokiu
Thao Suranari is something of a Wonder
Woman in these parts. As the wife of the citys
assistant governor, she rose to notoriety in
1826, during the reign of Rama III, when she
led a ragtag army of locals to victory against
the ravaging Vientiane forces of Chao Anu-
wong. Some scholars suggest the legend was
concocted to instil a sense of Thai-ness in the
ethnic-Lao people of the province, but locals
still flock to her memorial (Th Ratchadamnoen) in
adoring droves. Those whose supplications to
Ya Mo (Grandma Mo), as she is known, burn
incense, leave offerings of flowers and food,
or hire troupes to perform phleng khorat,
the traditional Khorat folk song, on a stage
near the shrine.
Behind the memorial is a small section of
the city wall, including the old Chumphon Gate,
the only one left standing the other three
are recent rebuilds.
OTHER SIGHTS
Several of the citys wats are worth a visit.
Thao Suranari and her husband founded Wat
Salaloi (off Th Thanonaosura; hdaylight hours) in 1827.
Her ashes are interred here, and many people
also hire singers to perform for her spirit. The
award-winning bt (central sanctuary), built
in 1967, resembles a Chinese junk and, along
with several other buildings, is decorated with
Dan Kwian pottery (see p463).
Wat Phra Narai Maharat (Th Prajak; hdaylight
hours) is of interest for two main reasons: it
has a very holy Khmer sandstone sculpture of
Phra Narai (Vishnu) and Khorats lk meuang
(city pillar shrine), site of daily devotions, is just
outside.
Wat Pa Salawan (hdaylight hours) is a Tham-
mayut forest monastery and was once sur-
rounded by jungle. It has since been engulfed
by the city, but remains a fairly quiet es-
cape from the urban push and shove. The
late abbot Luang Phaw Phut was quite well
known as a meditation teacher and has de-
veloped a strong lay following in the area.
Students of all abilities are welcome. A few
relics belonging to the legendary Ajahn Man
lonelyplanet.com
are on display in the main whan (large
hall), a large but simple wooden affair. A
cemetery on the grounds has a couple of
markers with photos of US veterans who
lived out their later years in Khorat one of
seven air bases in Thailand used by the US
armed forces to launch air strikes on Laos
and Vietnam in the 1960s and 1970s was just
outside Khorat.
Festivals & Events
Khorat explodes into life during the Thao Sura-
nari Festival, when city dwellers in addition to
legions of villagers from the surrounding area
come together to celebrate Thao Suranaris
victory over the Lao (see left). Its held an-
nually from 23 March to 3 April and features
parades, theatre and folk song.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Doctors House (%0 4425 5846; 78 Soi 4, Th Seup Siri; r
150-180B) One of the few cheapies where guests
bearing rucksacks are the norm, this homestay
has three spacious rooms with shared bath-
room in an old wooden house. The slightly
draconian rules (the gate is locked at 10pm)
ensure plenty of peace and quiet.
Potong Hotel (%0 4425 1962; Th Ratchadamnoen;
s/d 170/220B) Potong trades the Doctors House
vibe for an unbeatable location. These are
some of the cheapest rooms in the city with
good reason, but they make the pass list.
Tokyo Hotel Mansion (%0 4424 2873; 331 Th Sura-
nari; r 240-366B; ai) Around the corner from
the bus station, this hotel shows a little more
attention to detail than most of Khorats chea-
pies, though most rooms are pretty small.
WHAT TO EXPECT IN NORTHEASTERN
THAILAND
Budget (under 350B)
Midrange (350B to 999B)
Top end (over 1000B)
There are few guesthouses in the northeast,
so most budget rooms are in Chinese-style
concrete-box hotels, and most of these
properties mix both older, budget rooms
and dowdy but decent midrange options.
When available, top-end properties usually
offer excellent value.
lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E
Chumphol Hotel (%0 4424 2453; 124 Th Phoklang; r
240-380B; a) Although the dreary corridors are
a little reminiscent of an asylum, the rooms
are big enough to swing a brace of cats in and
the place is generally tidy.
Fah Thai Hotel (%0 4426 7390; 35-39 Th Phoklang; r
250-380B; a) Similar in quality to Chumphol,
this Thai-Chinese outfit feels less institutional,
but is in bigger need of a paint job.
MIDRANGE
Srivijaya Hotel (%0 4424 2194; 9-11 Th Buarong; r 480-
530B; a) The Srivijaya is far too ordinary to
justify the boutique hotel label its given it-
self; nevertheless the comfy, spic-and-span
rooms guarantee a good nights sleep.
Chaophaya Inn (%0 4426 0555; www.chaophayainnko
rat.com; 62/1 Th Jomsurangyat; r 490-600B; ai) Rising
beyond the jailhouse vibes endemic in many
of Khorats midrange options, the Chaophaya
offers cleanliness, comfort and a little atmos-
phere for a very reasonable price.
Iyara Hotel (%0 4426 8777; theiyara@yahoo.com;
497/1 Th Chumphon; r 500-600B; a) Once a fancy
business-class hotel, the Iyara is quite tat-
tered these days, but if you want to soak up
the atmosphere of this quiet neighbourhood,
its your only choice. Discounts to 350B are
routine.
Korat Hotel (%0 4425 7057; korathotel@hotmail
.com; 191 Th Atsadang; r 500-600B; ai) Heres
proof that 70s styling made it to Thailand,
and stayed way beyond its welcome. Yep,
its not the hippest of hotels, but the rooms
are comfy and the welcome cheery. And if
you cant sleep you can always pop down
to the disco, karaoke or other night-time
diversions.
TOP END
Rachaphruk Grand Hotel (%0 4426 1222; www
.rachaphruk.com; 311 Th Mittaphap; r 1200B; ais)
Grand is laying it on a little thick, but this
slightly dowdy four-star affair, the only hotel
in this class in the city centre, is a decent bet
if you fancy a few business-style comforts.
There is a fitness centre with a sauna, a pair
of restaurants and many other attached en-
tertainment options, plus great views from
the top floors.
Eating
Kai Yang Seup Siri (no roman-script sign; Th Seup Siri; dishes
30-40B; hlunch) This spartan spot is famous for
its grilled chicken, and reportedly has the best
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a ( K h o r a t ) 459
sm-tam in town. Just look for the roasting
chickens.
Kai Yang Wang Fa (no roman-script sign; Th Ratchad-
amnoen; whole chicken 75B; hlunch & dinner) Another
famed roast chicken spot, this is takeaway
only.
Ling Lao Cheu (no roman-script sign; %0 4426 0311;
dishes 30-100B; hlunch & dinner; a) This friendly
place serves a dizzying array of regional and
Chinese seafood dishes. Its down an unnamed
street running parallel to Th Jomsurangyat;
just look for the bright yellow shopfront.
Cabbages & Condoms (%0 4425 3760; 86/1 Th Seup
Siri; dishes 35-180B; hlunch & dinner; a) This regu-
lar favourite offers a leafy terrace, a wine list
(something of a rarity in this part of Thailand)
and plenty of newspaper clippings celebrat-
ing its mostly Thai food. Like the original
in Bangkok, this is a nonprofit operation
sponsored by the Population & Community
Development Association.
Rabiang Pa (%0 4424 3137; 284 Th Yomma-
rat; dishes 40-220B; hlunch & dinner; a) The leafiest
and loveliest restaurant on this stretch of Th
Yommarat is also one of the most low-key.
The 2kg picture menu makes ordering the
tasty Thai food risk free.
Chez Andy (%0 4428 9556; Th Manat; dishes 50-650B;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat; a) Khorats archetypal
expat haunt, this Swiss-managed place ap-
propriately housed in a red-and-white villa
has a global menu, with fondue, steak and
fried rice available.
Other recommendations:
Big Chili (%0 4424 7469; 158/8 Th Chakkri; dishes
70-350B; hdinner; ai) Pretty good Mexican, for
Thailand.
Anego (%0 4426 0530; 62/1 Th Jomsurangyat; dishes
60-600B; hlunch & dinner; a) For authentic Japanese
sushi and noodle dishes, plus some Italian pasta dishes.
Khorat is overflowing with tasty Thai and
Chinese restaurants serving cheap meals.
Th Ratchadamnoen near the Thao Suranari
Memorial and the west end of Th Jomsurang-
yat are good places to look: two notables are
Ming Ter (%0 4424 1718; 698 Th Ratchadamnoen; dishes
25-60B; hbreakfast & lunch), a simple vegetarian
affair, and the food courts at Klang Plaza 2
(Th Jomsurangyat; dishes 25-60B; hlunch & dinner; a).
Eating on the hoof is best done at one of the
citys many markets (see p460) where Isan
specialities can be sampled en masse keep
your eyes open for deep-fried insects and
pork sausages.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
460 N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a ( K h o r a t ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E A r o u n d N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a 461

Entertainment and then passing down Th Suranari near the SIGHTS

Sima Thani Hotel (%0 4421 3100; Th Mittaphap; admis- BUSES TO/FROM KHORAT market. Swngthew 1 takes you past Th Seup Phimai Historical Park
sion free) Hosts touristy cultural shows with Destination Fare (B) Duration (hr) Siri to near the TAT office, while swngthew v=mpkoxit;y^bLkl^iNrb}kp
Isan folk dances for tour groups; anyone can 15 runs to bus terminal 2. Started by Khmer King Jayavarman V during
Chiang Mai
come along. Call for more details about the Tk-tk (motorised pedicab) and mo- the late 10th century and finished by King
air-con 601 13
current programme. torcycle taxis cost between 30B to 70B to Suriyavarman I (AD 100249) in the early 11th
VIP 701
The Rachaphruk Grand Hotel (311 Th Mittaphap) most places around town. Several shops on century, this Hindu-Mahayana Buddhist tem-
Khon Kaen
has the dance floor du jour, while Fun Wonder- the eastern half of Th Buarong also rent out ple projects a majesty that transcends its size.
ordinary 125 3
ful (Th Jomsurangyat) is also popular. Both offer motorcycles. Although predating Angkor Wat by a century
air-con 160
free admission. or so, Prasat Phimai (%0 4447 1568; Th Anantajinda;
Loei
The Mall (Th Mittaphap) Has bowling, a mini waterpark
ordinary 179 6
AROUND NAKHON RATCHASIMA admission 40B; h7.30am-6pm) nevertheless shares
and the citys best movie theatre.
air-con 372
Phimai a number of design features with its more fa-
Klang Plaza 2 (Th Jomsurangyat) Also has bowling.
Nong Khai
rb}kp mous cousin, not least the roof of its 28m-tall
The innocuous little town of Phimai has one main shrine. It may well be wishful thinking,
ordinary 220 6
Shopping air-con 338
of northeastern Thailands finest surviving but the tourist brochures claim that it might
Khorat has two downtown night markets. Khmer temple complexes at its heart. Remi- have been the model for Angkor Wat.
Pattaya
Both are at their best from 6pm to 10pm. niscent of Cambodias Angkor Wat, which Unlike so many of northeastern Thailands
air-con 255 5
Thanon Manat Night Bazaar (Th Manat) Featuring was built a century later, Prasat Phimai once Khmer temples, Prasat Phimai has been el-
VIP 310
cheap clothes, flowers, sunglasses and food stood on an important trade route linking the egantly reconstructed by the Fine Arts De-
Sakon Nakhon
vendors, this is the largest night market. Khmer capital of Angkor with the northern partment and is one of the most complete
ordinary 220 6
Wat Boon Night Bazaar (Th Chumphon) The reaches of the realm. Peppered with ruins and monuments on the circuit. Volunteer guides
air-con 283
smaller of the two night markets, but better surrounded by ragged sections of the ancient offer free tours on weekends.
Ubon Ratchathani
for dining. town wall, modern-day Phimai still offers a
ordinary 155 7
Mall (Th Mittaphap; h10.30am-9.30pm) Isans larg- little taste of this historic heyday. There is Phimai National Museum
air-con 279
est, glossiest and busiest shopping centre.
Udon Thani
almost nothing to do here once you have wan- rbrbT#yIRl$kocsj'(k^brb}kp
Klang Plaza 2 (Th Jomsurangyat; h10am-9pm) You dered through the ruins which are far less Situated on the banks of Sa Kwan, a 12th-cen-
ordinary 193 4
can find just about anything you need at this significant than those at Angkor Wat but tury Khmer reservoir, this museum (%0 4447
air-con 290
place downtown. if you prefer the quiet life, this sleepy town 1167; Th Tha Songkhran; admission 30B; h8.30am-4pm)
Yasothon
Also worth a browse are Mae Gim Hang Mar- makes a pleasant base from which to explore houses a fine collection of Khmer sculptures
ordinary 169 4
ket (Th Suranari), which has mostly food and the wider region. from Phimai, Phanom Rung and other ruins,
air-con 220
clothing, and Salagrang Market (Th Mahat Thai), as well as ceramics from nearby Ban Prasat.
with plenty of handicrafts. INFORMATION The museums most prized possession, a
Kasikornbank (Th Chomsudasadet; h8.30am-3.30pm stone sculpture of Angkor King Jayavarman
Getting There & Away train services, most taking about six hours, Mon-Fri) Has ATM and exchange facilities. VII, comes from Prasat Phimai and looks
BUS to/from Ubon Ratchathani (1st/2nd/3rd class Tourist police (%1155; Th Anantajinda) very much like a sitting Buddha. A sculpture
Air-con buses (212B, three hours) leave the 268/133/58B).
Northern bus terminal in Bangkok frequently You can get train information at %0 4424 AROUND NAKHON RATCHASIMA 0
0
30 km
20 miles
throughout the day. 2044. Prasat
2175
Ban Prasat Phimai
There are two bus terminals in Khorat. Ter- Express trains leave for Bangkok from Kho- 2150
2067
206
Sai Ngam
minal 1 (%0 4424 2899; Th Burin) in the city centre rat Station (%0 4424 2044) at 10.18am and 6.47pm Dan Khun Thot
Non Thai
Phimai

serves Bangkok and towns within the prov- and take 4 hours. Normal trains (six hours) 2148 Non Sung
Dan Nok 205
ince. Buses to other destinations, plus more leave at 8.22am, 1.10pm, 3.45pm, 8.36pm and
Dan Thong
Bangkok buses, use terminal 2 (%0 4425 6006) 11.28pm. From Bangkok they depart at 5.45am Hin Dat
Lang 2163
Nong Suang
Ban Khok un
off Hwy 2. (express), 6.40am, 9.10am, 11.05am (express), Sung
2 m
M Lam
2198 Na Chamuag
11.45am, 9pm, 9.50pm and 11.40pm. The 1st- Choho Prasat M
ae
201 2068
TRAIN class fare (express train only) is 245B, 2nd class Kham Thale So
Nakhon Ratchasima
Phanomwan 226 Chakkarat
(Khorat)
Eleven trains connect Bangkok to Khorats is 110B and 3rd class is 50B. Wat Dhammachakra
Sema Ram
Huay
Thalaeng
two train stations. The express and special There are also eight ordinary trains (2nd/
express services leave Hualamphong sta- 3rd class 213/138B, five to six hours) and one Si Kui Sung
Noen 2
2166
Nong Phet
tion at 5.45am, 10.05am, 6.30pm, 8.30pm express (1st class 333B, four hours) daily to/ Sena
Dan Kwian
and 9.50pm, arriving in Khorat about 4 from Ubon Ratchathani. Nong Hong
To Khao Yai National 304
hours later, which is much longer than it Park (70km)
BURIRAM

takes to travel by bus. The 1st-class fare (ex- Getting Around NAKHON
RATCHASIMA
224
Nong Hua Raet 2166
press train only) is 230B, 2nd class is 115B Swngthew (8B) run fixed routes through Buta Song Chok Chai 24
Kan Luang
Nong Kham
Pak Thong Chai Nong Bun Nak
and 3rd class is 50B. There are also 10 daily the city, with most starting at bus terminal 1
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
462 N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E A r o u n d N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E A r o u n d N a k h o n R a t c h a s i m a 463

PHIMAI 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
light shows and dragon-boat races. A smaller Ban Prasat
version of the light show is held on the last Sat- [hkoxiklkm
A B C D urday of the month from October to April. About 3000 years ago, a primitive agricultural/
To Hwy 2 (10km);
Nakhon Ratchasima
(Khorat) (60km)
INFORMATION ceramic culture put down roots at Bat Prasat,
Kasikornbank.........................1 C3
Tourist Police.........................2 C3 SLEEPING near the banks of Mae Nam Than Prasat. It
1 Old Phimai Guest House (%0 4447 1918; off Th Chom- survived for nearly 500 years, planting rice,
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Meru Boromathat..................3 C3 sudasadet; dm 80B, r 130-350B; a) This homey place domesticating animals, fashioning coloured
Phimai Historical Park
Entrance............................4 C3
down a soi (lane) is a little scruffy, but the pottery, weaving cloth and, in later years,
Nam Mun Tha Songkhram Phimai National Museum.......5 C1 backpacker vibe prevails and theres a wel- forging tools out of bronze. The secrets of this
Mae Bridge 5 Pratu Chai (Victory Gate).......6 C4 coming atmosphere. early civilisation were finally revealed during
Sa SLEEPING Phimai Inn (%0 4428 7228; r 250-650B ais) extensive archaeological digs, finally completed
Kwan

Th T
Museum Gift
Boonsiri Guest House.............7
Old Phimai Guest House........8
C3
C3
The towns most upmarket option not that in 1991. Three of the excavation pits (donations ap-

ha S
Sa & Snack Shop Phimai Hotel..........................9 C4 the competition is particularly stiff sits preciated; h24hr), with skeletons and pottery left

ong
Plung
Phimai Inn...........................10 A4
seemingly in the middle of nowhere on Rte in situ, are on display throughout the village.
khra
2 EATING 206, giving you some serious peace and quiet A small museum (donations appreciated; h8am-4.30pm)
n To Sai Ngam Phimai Inn.........................(see 10)
unless youd rather rip it up in the karaoke houses some of the better discoveries and ex-
(Banyan Tree)
(2km)
Inner Temple
TRANSPORT bar. The fan rooms are a bargain. plains what life was like in those days.
Bus Terminal........................11 C4
Courtyard Boonsiri Guest House (%0 4447 1159; 228 Th Chomsu- Many of the houses are part of an award-
Royal dasadet; dm 150B, r 450-650B; ai) From the front winning homestay programme (per person incl 2 meals
Pavilions
there doesnt seem to be a whole lot to this 400B), where villagers put up visitors in their
hotel, but there are plenty of rooms behind the homes and show them daily activities, like bas-
Th

scenes. Pathological spring-cleaning appears ketry and farming. Reservations should be made
Sur
Khlo

Main Post
iya

Office 4 to have scrubbed away most of the atmos- a day or two in advance through Khorats TAT
ng C

Ass

3 Sa phere, but standards are high (the dorms have office (%0 4421 3666; www.tourismthailand.org; 2102-2104
ado

2
7
hak

Bot Sa
Th
ng

a 3
Keo
taji
nd 8 lockers) and the rooms are big and airy. Th Mittaphap, Khorat; h8.30am-4.30pm), or the village
Ch
rai

an
An
om

Th Phimai Hotel (%0 4447 1306; 305/1-2 Th Haruethai- headman here, Khun Thiam (%0 4436 7075).
Th
sud

Tha

1
rome; r 250-680B; a) Beyond the lobby, this place
asa

Son
det

is letting itself get run-down, but its the only GETTING THERE & AWAY
gkh

proper hotel inside the city. Ban Prasat is 45km northeast of Khorat, off
ran

rome 11
uethai
Th Har
9
6 Nong
4 Most of the vendors next to the island serve
206
10
garden, next to the main hall, displays ornate A couple of kilometres east of town is
boundary stones and other Khmer figures Thailands largest and oldest banyan tree, a
from Phimai. megaflorum spread over an island in a large
reservoir. The locals call it Sai Ngam (Beautiful
Other Sights Banyan; admission free; h6am-6pm), and the exten-
A number of other historic features survive sive system of roots cascading from all but the
in and around Phimai. Meru Boromathat (Th Tha smallest branches makes it look like a small
Songkhran; admission free; h24hr) is a brick chedi forest.
(stupa) dating back to the late Ayuthaya One kilometre south of the town is Tha
period. Its name is derived from a folk tale, Nang Sa Phom (admission free; h24hr), a landing
which refers to it as the cremation site of King platform constructed out of laterite in the
Bramathat. 13th century.
Large sections of the city walls have crum-
bled away, but the Pratu Chai (Victory Gate), which FESTIVALS & EVENTS
faces Phimai at the southern end of Th Chom- The Phimai Festival, staged over the second
sudasadet, is a good indication of how they weekend of November, celebrates the towns
once looked. history and features cultural performances,
Chok
To Baiteiy Restaurant (300m);
Tha Nang Sa Phom (1km)
Chumpuang; dishes 40-200B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
you can rent bicycles from Boonsiri Guest
EATING
Sai Ngam (dishes 20-60B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Thai and Isan basics, including tasty Phimai
noodles.
Phimai Inn (dishes 30-180B; hbreakfast, lunch & din-
ner) This hotel restaurant, serving many Isan
dishes, gets good reviews.
Baiteiy Restaurant (%0 4428 7103; Th Phimai-
Appropriately decorated with pseudo-sand-
stone Khmer carvings, this lovely outdoor
eatery, about 500m south of Pratu Chai (Vic-
tory Gate), does a decent spread of Thai fare,
plus some international staples.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses for Phimai leave from Khorats bus ter-
minal 2 (37B, 1 hours, every half-hour).
GETTING AROUND
Phimai is small enough to stroll, but, to see
more of the town and environs (eg Sai Ngam)
House for 20B per hour or 100B per day.
Hwy 2, and ordinary buses (27B, 40 minutes)
to Phimai will drop you off. Motorcycle taxis
waiting at the highway will zip you around to
all the sites, including waiting time of about
15 minutes at each, for 60B.
Prasat Phanomwan
xiklkmro};yo
Even after reconstruction the Khmer ruins of
Prasat Phanomwan (admission free; h24hr) are rather
tumbledown and the complex lacks the distinc-
tive prang (Khmer-style tower) that make so
many Khmer temples photogenic. If youre a
history buff, however, its worth a quick trip.
Although the structure is thought to have been
originally a shrine to the Hindu god Shiva, im-
ages of Buddha that have probably been en-
shrined here since at least the early Ayuthaya
period are still in place and remain the objects of
veneration. There are direct swngthew from
Khorats bus terminal 1 (20B, 30 minutes).
Dan Kwian
fjkogd;upo
Even if you think you have no interest in Thai
ceramics you should pay Dan Kwian a visit.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
464 N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E K h a o Ya i N a t i o n a l Pa r k
This village 15km southeast of Khorat has
been producing pottery for hundreds of years
and its creations are famous for the rough tex-
ture and rust-like hue only kaolin sourced
from this district produces such results. Myr-
iad shops line the highway and some are as
much art gallery as store. Its not all pottery,
though. Clay is shaped and fired into all kinds
of objects, from jewellery and wind chimes to
reproductions of ancient Khmer sandstone
sculpture.
Originally the village was a bullock-cart
stop for traders on their way to markets in
old Khorat (dan kwian means bullock-cart
checkpoint). The ramshackle private Kwian
Museum (%0 4437 5199; donations appreciated; hday-
light hours) at the north end of the strip displays
a variety of old carts from around the country,
plus some farming implements and examples
of old-style pottery.
To get here from Khorat, hop on a bus
(12B, 30 minutes) from near the south city
gate.
Pak Thong Chai
xydT'(yp
Amphoe Pak Thong Chai became one of Thai-
lands most famous silk-weaving centres when
Jim Thompson started buying silk here (for
more on Thompson, see p135). Today there
are around 35 silk factories in the district,
not to mention the hundreds, if not thou-
sands, of families still weaving on hand-looms
under their houses in just about every village
in the district; except Ban Pak Thong Chai
itself, where families are too busy selling silk
to make it. Two outlets worth seeking out
are Chattong (%0 4428 4465; h9am-6pm), on the
highway across from the Silk Cultural Centre
(its been shuttered for many years but there
is talk of reopening it), and Macchada (%0
4444 1684; h8am-5pm), at the southern end of
the main road through town. You can watch
weavers working at the latter.
Pak Thong Chai is 35km south of Khorat
on Rte 304. Buses (30B, 40 minutes) leave
terminal 1 every half-hour.
Sandstone Reclining Buddha Image
ritr=mTwlpkloNsbomikp
Housed inside Wat Dhammachakra Sema Ram
in Khorats Amphoe Sung Noen is Thai-
lands oldest reclining Buddha (hdaylight hours).
Thought to date back to the 8th century, the
13.5m-long Dvaravati-style image is unique
lonelyplanet.com
in that it hasnt been covered with a layer
of stucco and a coat of whitewash. It actu-
ally looks as old as it is purported to be. The
crude but appealing image is protected from
the elements by a huge roof, and an altar has
been built before it. Also on display at the wat
is a stone rendition of the Buddhist Wheel of
Law, also found on the site, which is thought
to predate the Buddha image.
Visiting Wat Dhammachakra Sema Ram,
40km southwest of Khorat, is best done as
a day trip from there. Sung Noen (6B, 40
minutes) is on the railway line to Bangkok
(although only three local trains stop here).
It can also be reached by buses from either
terminal in Khorat (22B, 30 minutes). From
Sung Noen youll have to hire a swngthew
for the final 5km to the wat. Expect to pay
nearly 200B for the return trip.
KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK
v=mpkocsj'(k^bg*kBsPj
Up there on the podium with some of worlds
greatest parks, Khao Yai National Park (%08
1877 3127; admission 400B; h6am-9pm) is Thailands
oldest and most visited reserve. Covering
2168 sq km, Khao Yai incorporates one of
the largest intact monsoon forests remain-
ing in mainland Asia, which is why is was
named a Unesco World Heritage site. The
mostly English-speaking staff at the visitor
centre (h8.30am-4.30pm) are very friendly and
helpful.
Rising to 1351m with the summit of Khao
Rom, the parks terrain covers five vegetation
zones: evergreen rainforest (100m to 400m);
semi-evergreen rainforest (400m to 900m);
mixed deciduous forest (northern slopes at
400m to 600m); hill evergreen forest (over
1000m); and savannah and secondary-growth
forest in areas where agriculture and logging
occurred before it was protected. Many or-
chids bloom from the middle of June through
the end of July, one of the few benefits of
rainy-season visits.
Some 250 wild elephants tramp the parks
boundaries; other mammals recorded include
sambar deer, barking deer, gaur, Malayan sun
bears, Asiatic black bears, tigers, leopards, ot-
ters, and various gibbons and macaques. Khao
Yai also has one of Thailands largest popula-
tions of hornbills, including the great hornbill
(nk kk or nk kaahang in Thai), king of the dusk (the best wildlife-watching times), is a
bird kingdom, as well as the wreathed hornbill
(nk graam chang; literally, elephant-jaw
lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N R ATC HA S I MA P R O V I N C E
bird), Indian pied hornbill (nk khek) and
brown hornbill (nk nguak si nm taan).
Hornbills breed from January to March, and
this is the best time to see them. Over 200 bird
species make the park their home and some
315 have been recorded.
There are two primary entrances into
the park. The first is the northern entrance
through Nakhon Ratchasima Province, with
sleeping and transport options originating
out of the backpacker town of Pak Chong (see
transport information, p466). The second op-
tion is the southern entrance in Prachinburi
Province (see Southeastern Thailand, p270),
which is closer to Bangkok and a popular
weekend destination for residents of the
capital.
Sights & Activities
The easiest attraction to reach, other than the
roadside overlooks (Pha Diew Die, on the way
to the radar station, is the highest), is Nam Tok
Kong Kaew, a small waterfall right behind the
visitor centre. The biggest waterfall, just a
1km walk from the road in the far south of the
park, is Nam Tok Haew Narok, whose three levels
combine to form a 150m drop, but the beauty
award goes to 25m Nam Tok Haew Suwat, which
scooped a starring role in Danny Boyles film
The Beach. You can swim in the pool at the
bottom. Though easily reached by car, this
forest-encased jewel is best reached via 8km
Trail 1, a somewhat challenging path (take a
compass, you often have to take long detours
around fallen trees) that connects it and other
waterfalls to the visitor centre. There is a good
chance of seeing gibbons and hornbills and its
probably the best footpath (the roads are bet-
ter) for spotting elephants, though encounters
are unlikely.
Its 5.4km from the visitor centre to Nong
Phak Chi observation tower along Trail 5. This
tower (theres another close to the visitor cen-
tre) overlooks a little lake and a salt lick and is
one of the best wildlife-spotting spots in the
park. This is the most likely place youll see
a tiger, but you have to be very lucky like
lottery-winner lucky to do so. Three-kilo-
metre-long Trail 9 is a seldom-used path to
this tower, but its the better bet for spotting
animals on your way. The shortest route to
the tower, ideal for getting there at dawn or
1km path along a creek bed, starting near
Km pillar 35.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
K h a o Ya i N a t i o n a l Pa r k 465
Most other hiking trails, some of them
formed by the movement of wildlife, are not as
well trodden, so guides are recommended. No
matter what trail you take, you should wear
boots and long trousers some of the paths
get a little rough and during the rainy season
leeches are a problem mosquito repellent
also helps keep them away. The staff at the
visitor centre gives hiking advice (especially
important in the rainy season) and offers bike
rental (per hr/day 50/200B).
Outside the park, about 10km from the
northern gate, is a bat cave that begins dis-
gorging millions of rare wrinkle-lipped bats
around 5.30pm. Your hotel can direct you to
the best viewing point.
Many of the guesthouses around Khao Yai
offer park tours (Greenleaf Guest House and
Khao Yai Garden Lodge have earned wide-
spread praise) and this is really the ideal way
to visit. Full-day programmes usually include
a night safari (which is your best chance to
see elephants); lunch, snacks and water; and,
in the rainy season, leech socks (that are
actually gaiters). Prices start around 1000B,
though do some careful comparison shopping
because some companies include the park en-
trance fee while others do not. Birdwatching,
trekking and other speciality tours make good
second-day add-ons to the standard tours.
Half-day tours are also available, but just too
short to be recommended. Reservations are
unnecessary, but guides can get booked out
by school groups so its not a bad idea to call
ahead. Rangers, if they are free, can sometimes
be hired as guides, at the visitor centre. Prices
are negotiable, but 500B for a trail walk seems
to be the going rate.
Sleeping & Eating
There are also dozens of places to stay in and
around the nearby town of Pak Chong. Touts
at the train station and bus stops are helpful
(if in doubt, call the hotel yourself, most have
English-speaking staff), since the best places
for visiting the park are south of town along
Rte 2090 (Th Thanarat) and they can get you
a free ride there.
Greenleaf Guest House (% 0 4436 5024;
www.greenleaftour.com; Th Thanarat, Km 7.5; r 200-300B)
Half-home, half-guesthouse, this old favour-
ite has some of the few budget rooms out-
side town. Its a bit ragged, but the friendly,
English-speaking owners keep the rooms
spotless.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
466 B U R I R A M P R O V I N C E B u r i r a m & N a n g R o n g Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com B U R I R A M P R O V I N C E B u r i r a m & N a n g R o n g 467

Khao Yai Garden Lodge (%0 4436 5178; www minutes) from in front of the 7-Eleven store CENTRAL BURIRAM 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
.khaoyai-garden-lodge.com; Th Thanarat, Km 7; r 350-2500B; thats about 300m west of the ordinary bus
A B C D
ais) Previous owners had let standards terminal (air-con buses stop at their own
slide more than just a little, but the new own- offices at various points on the main road). Its
ers appear to have righted the ship, which is another 14km to the visitor centre and park
good news because the lovely garden and indi- guards are used to talking drivers into hauling 1
4
Th
Na
Sa
vidually decorated rooms (available starting at farng (Westerner) up there. Tha
Ne
e
the mid-price level) make for a lovely stay. Some shops on Pak Chongs main road rent 9
2 5
INFORMATION Train Station
Juldis Khao Yai Resort (%0 4429 7297; juldis@khaoyai out motorcycles. Bangkok Bank......................1 C2
.com; Th Thanarat, Km 17; r 1430-5200B; ais) This Buriram Comnet...................2 B1

g
uan
Clock
Post Office..........................3 D3 Tower
plush place is one of the Khao Yai area origi-
BURIRAM PROVINCE

Me
Tourist Police.......................4 A1 6
nals, and offers tennis courts, spa treatments,

Plat
Th
SLEEPING Niw
at

Th
pleasant gardens and airy rooms.

Th Romburi
Chai Charoen.......................5 B1
Kirimaya (%0 4442 6000; www.kirimaya.com; Rte Touch down in the little provincial capital Thai Hotel............................6 B2

an
matak

Th Lak Meuang
3052; r 8475-16,575B, tented villa 31,780B; ais) of Buriram, at the heart of one of Thailands 2 EATING 8

The first impression of this luxury resort-spa
is usually either Wow! or stunned silence.
Step through the wooden front doors and
you are greeted by a towering stilted restau-
rant and other Thai-Bali fusion buildings,
all rising from a lotus- and reed-filled pond.
Th Sa
Bamboo Bar & Restaurant....7 B2 10
larger provinces, and you might wonder what Kai Yang Empire...................8 B2
all the fuss is about. Despite hanging on to half Kao Ta Lai............................9 B1
1 To Buriram Airport (30km);
7 Sateuk (30km)
of its historic moat, the city is a hard sell as a TRANSPORT Th Thani
tourist destination. The best advice is to make Phu Siam Tours..................10 C2 To Bus Station
(900m)
a beeline into the countryside, where you will
find a landscape chock-a-block with tradi-

Th Sunthonthep
All rooms have bamboo furniture, balconies tion and peppered with ruins (143 of them). Th Ku Muang

and all the mod cons. Were not too keen on Most sit in the southern half of the province, Th Phituk

having an 18-hole golf course on the edge of which is poised to secede from Buriram; some 3 Market

Lom
the park (even one designed by Jack Nicklaus), government offices have already put up Nang To Lower Isan Cultural

but there is no denying this place is special.
Its 7km east of the park gate.
The best setting for sleeping is, of course,
in the park itself. There are two camp sites
(per person 30B, 2-person tent rental 100B), basic two-
sleeper bungalows (r 800B) and rather fancier
three-bedroom villas (3500B) with air-con and
fridge. Simple dorms (50B) are another option,
but only when not in use by groups.
Each of the lodges listed above serve good
food and there are many lovely, garden res-
taurants near them along Th Thanarat. The
park itself has five restaurants: at the visitor
centre, the Orchid Campsite, the Lam Ta-
khong Campsite, Nam Tok Haew Suwat and
Nam Tok Haew Narok. Even the camp site
ones close early, so plan ahead.
Getting There & Away
From Bangkok take a bus (ordinary/air-con
115/148B, 2 hours, every 20 minutes) from
the Northern bus terminal to Pak Chong.
From Khorat, just about all Bangkok-bound
buses also stop in Pak Chong (ordinary/air-
con 45/77B, 1 hours). You can also get to
Pak Chong by train from Bangkok, Ayuthaya
or Khorat, but it is slower than the bus, espe-
cially if coming from Bangkok.
Swngthew travel the 26km from Pak
Chong to the parks northern gate (25B, 45
Rong Province signs.
The crowning glory is Phanom Rung, a
beautifully restored Khmer temple complex
straddling the summit of an extinct volcano.
The most spectacular Angkor monument in
Thailand, Phanom Rung is worth the journey
and should impress even those suffering acute
temple overload.
BURIRAM & NANG RONG
[=iuiy}pN
pop 30,000
The forgettable capital of Buriram is a pos-
sible base for exploring the regions temples,
but the accommodation scene is poor and
theres very little to keep you occupied so most
people bed down in Nang Rong, 54km to the
south, which has a full range of services and
several good guesthouses, before and after
their ruin runs. Surin is another reasonable
place to base yourself.
Information
Bangkok Bank (Th Thani; h8.30am-3.30pm) Has ATM
and exchange facilities.
Buriram Comnet (8-10 Th Niwat; per hr 15B; h8am-
9pm) Check your email here.
Post office (Th E-san; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-
noon Sat, Sun & holidays)
Tourist police (%1155; Th Niwat)
K hlong La-
Centre (600m); Khao
Kradong Forest Park (8km);
3
Th E-san
Buriram Lake Park Resort (14km); Wat
Nang Rong (54km); Phanom Klang
Rung (70km)
Sights made half an effort. As it is, there are passable
Rajabhat Universitys Lower Isan Cultural Centre rooms, and plenty of them.
(%0 4461 1221; Th Jira; admission free; h8.30am-4.30pm), Buriram Lake Park Resort (%0 4460 5169; www
in the building with the stupa-shaped roof, .birdresort.com; Hwy 219; r 500-1500B; a) If you are
suffers from neglect, but the elephant-han- travelling with kids in tow, they will never
dling display is worth a look. be bored at this large resort on Huay Talat
For panoramic views of the city, join the Reservoir, 12km south of the city. There is
immense Buddha image atop little Khao Kra- a small zoo, wandering peacocks, a dinosaur
dong Forest Park (Hwy 219; h6am-6pm). On the slide and thousands of herons and waterfowl
drive up youll see what is assumed to be living on the lake. The log-cabin bungalows
the crater of an extinct volcano; going down are large and lovely, but a few that we saw
theres a sculpture of an elephant prostrating needed a bit of repair so look closely before
itself before the Lord Buddha. If you are using choosing.
public transport, any bus heading south will
drop you at the entrance where you can climb NANG RONG
the 197-step staircase. Honey Inn (%0 4462 2825; www.honeyinn.com;
8/1 Soi Si Kun; r 200-350B; ai) This welcoming
Sleeping guesthouse, 1km from the bus station, is run
BURIRAM by a knowledgeable retired English teacher.
Chai Charoen (no roman-script sign; %0 4461 1559; Th The rooms are simple but bright and a lot of
Niwat; r 120-180B) This scruffy place next to the travellers tips get shared among guests. Car and
train station is fast approaching fleapit, but motorcycle rental, guided tours and food (with
the rooms arent as grubby as the rest of the advance notice) are all available at good prices.
joint. To find it, walk north from the bus station and
Thai Hotel (%0 4461 1112; 38/1 Th Romburi; r 180- cross the main road, then head east until you
400B; a) The Thai could be quite nice if it just see the sign; or take a samlw for 30B.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
468 B U R I R A M P R O V I N C E P h a n o m R u n g H i s t o r i c a l Pa r k
P California Inter Hostel (% 0 4462 2214;
www.geocities.com/california8gh; Th 59/9 Sangkakrit; r 250-
500B; ai) Another friendly, helpful and
English-speaking place, this one on the east
side of town. The California is a little shinier
than the Honey Inn. Khun Wicha also rents
bikes, motorcycles and cars, and leads tours.
Cabbages & Condoms (%0 4465 7145; Hwy 24; r 240-
1500B; ai) The cheapest (shared bathroom)
rooms at this Population & Community De-
velopment Associationrun resort, which is
set in a garden and ringed by several little
lakes, have gone pretty limp, but move up
the price scale where you get stone floors and
art on the walls, and this is a pleasant place
to stay. The restaurant is also very good. A
shoe and clothing factory, opened to bring
work normally found in the city to the vil-
lages, sits onsite.
Eating
Kai Yang Empire (no roman-script sign; %08 1264 0624; Th
Romburi; dishes 25-70B; hlunch & dinner) This simple
place, fronted by fish and rooster statues, is
good for basic Isan food and noodle dishes.
Kao Ta Lai (no roman-script sign; %0 4461 2089; 136-
138 Th Niwat; dishes 25-80B; hdinner) Just down from
the train station, this simple Chinese place has
plenty of fresh fish on display out front and
cauldrons of oddities to pick from inside.
Bamboo Bar & Restaurant (%0 4462 5577; 14/13
Th Romburi; dishes 40-290B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
With a dartboard, satellite TV and entire walls
covered with Heineken and Chang cans, this
is the home-away-from-home of Burirams
expat set. It has a lively atmosphere once the
drinking starts, and the menu includes West-
ern staples like schnitzel and spaghetti. It rents
motorcycles for 200B per day.
There are also some restaurants and simple
food stalls at Phanom Rung Historical Park.
Getting There & Away
AIR
PB Air (%in Bangkok 0 2261 0222; www.pbair.com) flies
to Bangkok (one way 2360B, 50 minutes) five
days a week. Buy tickets at Phu Siam Tours (%0
4462 5065; Th Romburi; h8am-5pm) in the back of the
Speed Music Complex.
BUS
Air-con buses to Bangkoks Northern bus
terminal (227B, six hours) depart all day
long; 999 VIP (%0 4461 5081), with an office at
the terminal, has a daily 24-seater (450B) at
Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com
10.20pm. The other main destinations from
Burirams bus terminal (%0 4461 2534) are Khorat
(ordinary/air-con 65/95B, three hours, every
half-hour) and Surin (air-con 35B, hourly).
TRAIN
Buriram is on the BangkokUbon line and is
served by 10 trains a day. The fastest services
(taking under six hours) leave Bangkok at
5.45am and 9.50pm, and depart for Bangkok
at 5.15pm. The slower trains take between
seven and 8 hours. Fares to Bangkok start
at 67B for 3rd class and 265B for 2nd class,
and go as high as 1016B for an air-con sleeper
cabin on one of the overnight services. To
Ubon Ratchathani (3rd/2nd class 40/201B)
takes between 2 and four hours, while Kho-
rat (3rd/2nd class 24/165B) is two hours from
Buriram on most trains.
You can get up-to-date train information
from the train station (%0 4461 1202).
Getting Around
Tk-tk to the town centre cost about 40B
from the bus station and 400B from the
airport.
PHANOM RUNG HISTORICAL PARK
v=mpkoxit;y^bLkl^iNg*kro}i=h'
Phanom Rung (Big Hill; %0 4463 1746; admission 40B;
h6am-6pm) has a knock-me-dead location.
Crowning the summit of a spent volcano, this
sanctuary sits a good 70 storeys above the flat
paddy fields below. To the southeast you can
clearly see Cambodias Dongrek mountains,
and its in this direction that the capital of
the Angkor empire once lay. The Phanom
Rung temple complex is the largest and best
restored Khmer monument in Thailand (it
took 17 years to complete the restoration)
and, although its not the easiest place to
reach, it more than rewards those who make
the effort.
The Phanom Rung temple was erected be-
tween the 10th and 13th centuries, the bulk
of it during the reign of King Suriyavarman
II (r AD 111350), which by all accounts was
the apex of Angkor architecture. The complex
faces east, towards the original Angkor capital.
Of the three other great Khmer monuments
of Southeast Asia, Cambodias Angkor Wat
faces west, its Prasat Khao Wihan faces north
and Thailands Prasat Phimai faces southeast.
Nobody knows for sure whether these orienta-
tions have any special significance, especially
lonelyplanet.com
as most smaller Khmer monuments in Thai-
land face east (towards the dawn typical of
Hindu temple orientation).
If you can, plan your visit for one of the
four times when the sun shines through all
15 sanctuary doorways. The correct solar
alignment happens during sunrise on 35
April and 810 September and sunset on 57
March and 57 October. In leap years it begins
one day earlier. The park extends its hours
during this event. Also, on the first Saturday
of April, local people have their own special
celebration, the Climbing Khao Phanom Rung
Festival, which commemorates the restora-
tion of Phanom Rung. During the morning
there is a procession up Khao Phanom Rung,
and at night-time sound-and-light shows and
dance-dramas are performed in the temple
complex.
Below the main sanctuary, after the long
row of gift shops, an Information Centre (admission
free; h9am-4.30pm) houses a scale model of the
area, artefacts found at the site, and displays
about both the construction and restoration.
Guides (fees are negotiable) offer their serv-
ices at the complex, but when we last visited
none spoke English. Its possible that bun-
galows will be available in the future, but its
unlikely.
Design
One of the most remarkable design aspects of
Phanom Rung is the promenade leading to the
main gate. This is the best surviving example
in Thailand. It begins on a slope 400m east of
PHANOM RUNG
1 Prangs 6 Naga Bridge
2 Pavilions 7 Naga Bridge
3 Small Prang 8 Pools
4 Prasat 9 Stairs
5 Mondp 10 Naga Bridge
1
2 11
7 8
5
6
3 4
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
B U R I R A M P R O V I N C E P h a n o m R u n g H i s t o r i c a l Pa r k 469
the main tower, with three earthen terraces.
Next comes a cruciform base for what may
have been a wooden pavilion. To the right
of this is a stone hall known locally as Rohng
Chng Phuak (White Elephant Hall) where
royalty bathed and changed clothes before
entering the temple complex. Flower garlands
to be used as offerings in the temple may also
have been handed out here. After you step
down from the pavilion area, youll come to
a 160m avenue paved with laterite and sand-
stone blocks, and flanked by sandstone pillars
with lotus-bud tops, said to be early Angkor
style (AD 110080). The avenue ends at the
first and largest of three naga (mythical ser-
pent-like creature) bridges. The first is flanked
by 16 five-headed naga in the classic Angkor
style in fact, these figures are identical to
those found at Angkor Wat.
After passing this bridge and climbing the
stairway you come to the magnificent east gal-
lery leading into the main sanctuary. The cen-
tral prasat (building with a cruciform ground
plan and needle-like spire) has a gallery on
each of its four sides and the entrance to each
gallery is itself a smaller version of the main
tower. The galleries have curvilinear roofs
and false-balustrade windows. Once inside
the temple walls, have a look at each of the
galleries and the gopura (entrance pavilion),
paying particular attention to the lintels over
the porticoes. The craftsmanship at Phanom
Rung represents the pinnacle of Khmer ar-
tistic achievement, on par with the reliefs at
Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
11 Promenade
12 White Elephant
Hall
13 Platform
14 Terraces
12
14
9
13
10
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
470 B U R I R A M P R O V I N C E P r a s a t M e u a n g Ta m
Sculpture
The Phanom Rung complex was originally
constructed as a Hindu monument and ex-
hibits iconography related to the worship of
Vishnu and Shiva. Excellent sculptures of both
Vaishnava and Shaiva deities can be seen in
the lintels or pediments over the doorways to
the central monuments and in various other
key points on the sanctuary exterior. On the
east portico of the mondp (square, spired
building) is found a Nataraja (Dancing Shiva),
which is late Baphuan or early Angkor style,
while on the south entrance are the remains
of Shiva and Uma riding their bull mount,
Nandi. The central cell of the prasat contains
a Shivalingam (phallus image).
Several sculpted images of Vishnu and his
incarnations, Rama and Krishna, decorate
various other lintels and cornices. Probably
the most beautiful is the Phra Narai lintel, a
relief depicting a reclining Vishnu (Narayana)
in the Hindu creation myth. Growing from
his navel is a lotus that branches into several
blossoms, on one of which sits the creator god
Brahma. On either side of Vishnu are heads of
Kala, the god of time and death. He is asleep
on the milky sea of eternity, here represented
by a naga. This lintel sits above the eastern
gate (the main entrance) beneath the Shiva
Nataraja relief.
Getting There & Away
Phanom Rung can be approached from
Khorat, Buriram or Surin. From Buriram
take a Chanthaburi-bound bus to Ban Ta Pek
VICINITY OF PHANOM RUNG
To Nakhon
Ratchasima
2073
To Buriram
(45km)
(Khorat)
(104km) 218
Nang 24
Rong
348 2117
Ban Ta Pek
Wat Khao
Angkhan
Phanom Rung
Historical Park
Prasat
Khao
Praibat
Prasat Ban
Khok Ngiew
Pa Kham
Lahan Sai
2075
To Aranya
Prathet
(120km)
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C HA I YA P H U M P R O V I N C E H i s t o r y 471
(ordinary/air-con 35/55B, every 40 minutes, count Khao Phra Wihan in terms of size, came from the widely scattered Ban Kruat
1 hours), where youll need to hire a mo- atmosphere and the quality of restoration Quarry. Nearby are two restored kilns, Tao
torcycle taxi (150B) or swngthew (three work. The whole complex is surrounded by Sawai and Tao Nai Chian, that supplied pottery
people 300B) to take you the rest of the way. laterite walls, within which are four lotus- to much of the Khmer empire.
These rates include waiting times while you filled reservoirs, each guarded by whimsical You can easily tack on Prasat Ta Meuan
tour the ruins. five-headed naga. (p542), a secluded Khmer complex on the
Buses from Nang Rong to Chanthaburi also Sandstone galleries and gopura, the lat- ThaiCambodian border that, though it lies
pass through Ban Ta Pek (20B, 30 minutes, ter exquisitely carved, surround five prang. in Surin Province, is more conveniently vis-
every 40 minutes), or you can take one of the The principal prang could not be rebuilt and ited from this region. Its 55km from Phanom
five daily swngthew (20B, 45 minutes) from the remaining towers, being brick, are not Rung.
the market on the east end of town that go to nearly as tall or as imposing as the sandstone
the foot of the mountain, while a motorcycle prang at Phanom Rung. The plan is based on WAT KHAO ANGKHAN
taxi to the top will cost about 30B less. the same design as that of Angkor Wat: the ;yfg*kvy'%ki
Those coming by bus from Khorat (air-con five peaks of Mt Meru, the mythical abode of Although the peaceful temple atop this extinct
78B, two hours) or Surin (air-con 65B, two the Hindu gods. A Shivalingam found in the volcano has an ancient past, as evidenced by
hours) should get off at Ban Ta-Ko, a well- central tower suggests that the temple was the 8th or 9th century Dvaravati sandstone
marked turn-off about 14km east of Nang once a shrine to Shiva. Also, a lintel from the boundary markers, its the modern construc-
Rong. Once in Ban Ta-Ko you can wait for principal prang depicted Shiva and his consort tions that make Wat Khao Angkhan (hdaylight
one of the buses or swngthew from Nang Uma riding the sacred bull, Nandi. It can be hours) worth a visit. The bt and several other
Rong that will pass through Ban Ta Pek (10B) seen, along with other related exhibits labelled flamboyant buildings were erected in 1982 in
and then continue as above, or take a motor- in English, in the small information centre (admis- an unusual nouveau-Khmer style that sort of
cycle taxi all the way to Phanom Rung (return sion free; h8am-5pm), across the road from the harkens back to the age of empire. Inside the
300B). temple. Any motorcycle taxi driver will add bt, the jataka murals, painted by Burmese
Meuang Tam onto Phanom Rung for about artists, have English captions. The wat also
PRASAT MEUANG TAM 100B to 150B. hosts a Chinese-style pagoda, a 29m reclining
xiklkmg}nv'^k Buddha, and beautiful views of the surround-
In the little village of Khok Meuang, the re- OTHER RUINS ing mountains and forest.
stored Khmer temple of Prasat Meuang Tam For those with an insatiable appetite for The temple is about 20km from Nang Rong
(Lower City; admission 30B; h6am-6pm) is an ideal Khmer ruins, Buriram offers a smorgasbord of or Phanom Rung. The route is pretty well
bolt-on to any visit to Phanom Rung, which lesser-known sites that, taken together, create signed, but you will have to ask directions at
is only 7km to the northwest. Dating back to a picture of the crucial role this region once some junctions. There is no public transport.
the late 10th or early 11th century and spon- played in the Khmer empire. Even history A motorcycle taxi from Ban Ta Pek could cost
sored by King Jayavarman V, this is probably buffs will likely find these places of only minor as little as 150B.
Isans third most interesting temple complex interest, but driving through this rice-growing
after Phanom Rung and Phimai; fourth if you region offers an unvarnished look at village
0 20 km
life and you will surely have an enlightening
trip. Note that many roads around here are
CHAIYAPHUM
To Buriram
(40km)
0
To Surin
(27km)
12 miles
in terrible shape.
At the time of writing, all of the following
PROVINCE
219 Prasat
sites, restored or stabilised to some degree by Travelling through Chaiyaphum Province,
Bak Dok the Fine Arts Department, were free of charge youre almost as likely to run into a tiger as
Ban Ta-Ko Prasat Hin
Ban Phluang
and open during daylight hours. Kuti Reusi a foreign tourist and this is not a province
Prakhon
Chai Nong Bua Rai sits right between Phanom Rung with a lot of tigers. Despite its position at the
and Meuang Tam, so you might as well stop heart of the country, it is a remote region
2117 2075 if you are heading to the latter. Kuti Reusi Khok and remains something of a mystery, even to
Kuti Reusi
Meuang is just south of Prasat Meuang Tam, Thais. Famous for its fields of flowers and
Nong Bua Rai while you have to hike in to Prasat Khao Praibat. not a whole lot else Chaiyaphum has several
Prasat Meuang Tam
Further east, near Ban Kruat, are Prasat Thong sights worth a peep, but its primary appeals
Kuti Reusi and Prasat Baibak. Prasat Ban Khok Ngiew is the are the peace and quiet and sense of straying
Khok Meuang 2121
Ban Kruat Ban Kruat only one of these sites that can conveniently off the beaten track.
Kilns Ban Ta Miang
2075 Quarry be reached by public transport from Nang
Ban Kruat
Prasat Ta Rong; any swngthew heading south will History
Meuan
Prasat Thong drop you off. In the late 18th century a Lao court official
Prasat Baibak CAMBODIA Archaeologists assume that much of the brought 200 Lao from Vientiane to settle
rock used to build these ancient structures this area, which had been abandoned by the
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
472 C HA I YA P H U M P R O V I N C E C h a i y a p h u m & A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C HA I YA P H U M P R O V I N C E C h a i y a p h u m & A r o u n d 473

Khmers some 500 years earlier. The com- Pat Pat (%0 4483 0037; Th Tantawan; per hr 15B;
MT-MI
munity paid tribute to Vientiane but also h9.30am-10pm) Friendly internet caf and good source
cultivated relations with Bangkok and Cham- of information about Chaiyaphum. Thanks to growing interest from both Thais and foreigners, the once-fading Isan tradition of
pasak. When Prince Anou (from Vientiane) Post office (Th Bannakan; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, mt-mi has undergone a major revival and is now one of Thailands best-known weaving styles.
declared war on Siam in the early 19th cen- 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) Similar to Indonesian ikat, mt-mi is a tie-dye process (mt is tie and mi is strands) that results
tury, the Lao ruler of Chaiyaphum, Jao Phraya in a geometric pattern repeatedly turning back on itself as it runs up the fabric. The wider the
Lae, wisely switched allegiance to Bangkok, Sights pattern, the more complicated the process. No matter what the design, every mt-mi fabric has
knowing that Anous armies didnt stand a BAN KHWAO an ever-so-slight blur to it, which, more than anything else, makes it so distinct.
chance against the more powerful Siamese. [hkog*;hk To start, the weavers string their thread either silk or cotton, but usually silk tightly across
Although Jao Phraya Lae lost his life in bat- Most visitors to Chaiyaphum are here for the a wooden frame sized exactly as wide as the finished fabric will be. Almost always working from
tle in 1806, the Siamese sacked Vientiane in silk village of Ban Khwao, 13km southwest of memory, the weavers then tie plastic (traditionally the skin of banana plant stalks were used)
1828 and ruled most of western Laos until town on Rte 225, where nearly 50 shops sell around bunches of strands in their desired design. The frame is then dipped in the dye (usually
the coming of the French near the end of the fabric and clothing. The Silk Development Centre a chemical colour, though natural sources such as flowers and tree bark are regaining popular-
19th century. Today a statue of Jao Phraya (%0 4489 1101; admission free; h8am-5pm) by the mar- ity), which grips the exposed thread but leaves the wrapped sections clean. The wrapping and
Lae (renamed Phraya Phakdi Chumphon ket has displays about silk-making and will soon dipping continues for multiple rounds, which results in intricate, complex patterns that come to
by the Thais) stands at the entrance to the offer day-long tours: if youve never observed life on the loom. The more you see of the process, the more you realise how amazing it is that
capital city the process from the cultivation of mulberry the finished product turns out so beautifully.
trees and propagation of silkworms to the dye- Most of the patterns, usually abstract representations of natural objects such as trees and birds,
CHAIYAPHUM & AROUND ing and weaving of silk thread youre in for an are handed down from mother to daughter, but increasingly designers are working with weaving
(yp#)}b interesting day. Since over 200 families produce groups to create modern patterns, which invariably fetch higher prices. Some silk weavers now
pop 55,500 fabric, many using mt-mi methods, youll also fetch outlandish prices for their artistry. On the other hand, a two-colour cotton pattern, which
Chaiyaphum is a bit of a nowhere town and be able to see some of the steps on your own if can be turned out in a matter of days, might cost as little as 60B per metre.
is a base for visiting the surrounding attrac- you wander around. Swngthew to Ban Khwao
tions all just a short hop outside the city (15B, 20 minutes, every 20 minutes) leave from
rather than a destination in itself. In brief, in front of Pat Pat internet caf. PRANG KU the parks other smaller waterfalls, including
silk lovers should head west to the village of xik'%Nd)j Tat Fah, which is the most beautiful.
Ban Khwao and the outdoorsy should head to TAMNAK KHEO This hollow Khmer prang (hdaylight hours), The park has camp sites (per person 30B, 3-person
the mountains where the relatively unknown ^esoydg*up; about 800m east of the Jao Phraya Lae monu- tent hire 300B) and 13 bungalows (4 people from 1200B),
Tat Ton National Park is the star of several Tamnak Kheo (Green Hall; %0 4481 1574; off Th Burapha; ment, was constructed during the reign of plus a restaurant and snack shops.
national parks in the area. admission free; h10am-noon & 2-4pm), built in 1950 the final Angkor king, Jayavarman VII (AD Some swngthew pass the park entrance
as the governors residence and now restored 11811219), as a place of worship at a heal- road (25B, 45 minutes) every morning, but
Information as a museum, has displays of old mt-mi cloth ing station on the Angkor temple route be- youll have to walk 1.5km to the falls. Or stop
Bangkok Bank (Th Sanambin, Lotus Department Store; and photos from King Rama IXs 1955 visit. tween the Angkor capital in Cambodia and in Ban Tat Ton (15B, 30 minutes), and hire
h10am-8pm) The citys only late-opening bank does The classic wooden house itself is more inter- Prasat Singh in Kanchanaburi Province. Its a tk-tk for about 200B with an hour or
foreign exchange. esting than the displays. not much to look at and has just one poorly so wait.
preserved lintel, but its the top ancient site
CHAIYAPHUM 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles in the province which is why history buffs MOR HIN KHAO
To Tat Ton National Park 6 To Bua Yai (52km);
dont flock to Chaiyaphum. The Buddha fig- }vsbo*k;
A B rat C D
To Bangkok
Bank (150m);
(23km); Mor Hin Kao (45km)
w et
Chumphae (108km) ure inside the ku (hollow, cave-like stupa) Oddly promoted as the Stonehenge of Thai-
Ni
Th Non Meuang

Lotus Department
Store (150m) 17
Chinese
Temple
Wat Chai
Prasit 201
Th 12 INFORMATION EATING purportedly hails from the Dvaravati period land, Mor Hin Khao contains a line of five nat-
Th Chaiprasit
15 Pat Pat...................................1 A2
Post Office.............................2 A2
Green House..........................9 B2
Jae Hai Lek..........................10 A2
(6th to 10th centuries). ural stone pinnacles with tapered bottoms
1 11 Night Market........................11 B1 rising to 15m. Two fields of less dramatic,
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Jao Phraya Lae Monument....3 A2
Night Market........................12 B1
Reun Rom............................(see 6)
TAT TON NATIONAL PARK but still oddly sculpted rocks lie further up
8
v=mpkocsj'(k^b^kfF^o the mountain, beyond the reforestation of-
Th

ham T ang Prang Ku...............................4 D2 Street Vendors......................13 B1

Th Yutit Hin
an
Bur

Municipal Market 13 Soi B Tamnak Kheo.........................5 B2

It isnt the grandest of reserves, but Tat Ton fice. The route to the rocks, 20km northwest
aph

To Night Th Ratchathan
National Park (%0 4485 3293, reservations 0 2562 0760; of Tat Ton via rough country roads, will be
Taksin

Market
a

SLEEPING
Th

hon

(150m) 1
Lert Nimit Hotel......................6 B1
Th Tant
awan admission 400B; h7am-6pm) gets few weekday visi- paved and signed in English sometime in the
hak

10 Siam River Resort...................7 B2

City Hall
tors and makes a pleasant escape for those who near future, but until then its very difficult
ont

5 Sirichai Hotel..........................8 A1 4
Th N

3 9
2
Th Bannakan
really want to get away from it all. Covering to find, so inquire at the park visitor cen-
Th Haruthai

Hospital Wat
TRANSPORT
Air Chaiyaphum.............. 14 A2
218 sq km at the edge of the Laen Da mountain tre. Someone from the park might ride with
2 Prang Ku
7
Wat Klang Bus Terminal.....................15 B1 range, 23km north of the city, Tat Ton is best you if you ask. A camp site is also planned,
225 Meuang Kao Nakhonchai Air................16 A2
Swngthew to Ban
known for its photogenic namesake 6m-high which will be welcome because the site can
16 201
To Jao Phraya Lae Shrine Khwao.........................(see 1) waterfall, which stretches 50m wide during be spectacular at sunset. Call the Ministry of
(3km); Ban Khwao (13km); Swngthew to Tat Ton
Nakhon Ratchasima National Park...............17 A1
the May to October monsoon, but flows year- Sports & Tourism (%0 4481 1218) in Chaiyaphum
(Khorat) (118km)
14
round. Youll probably be the only sightseer at for updates.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
474 K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S K h o n K a e n Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S K h o n K a e n 475

Festivals & Events
Chaiyaphum residents celebrate two week-
long festivals yearly in honour of Jao Phraya
Lae (see p471 for more on this ruler). The one
starting January 12, the date of his death, takes
place at City Hall, near his statue, while ac-
tivities in mid-May focus on a shrine erected
on the spot where he was killed, about 3km
southwest of town off the road to Ban Khwao.
Both events feature music, dance and an el-
ephant parade.
Sleeping
Lert Nimit Hotel (%0 4481 1522; 447 Th Niwetrat; r 200-
800B; a) Step past the stylish lobby and this
hotel is pretty ordinary, but the rooms are
pleasant enough, though the fan-cooled ones
are slightly dowdy. Rooms at the back have
lovely mountain views.
Sirichai Hotel (%0 4481 1461; 565/1 Th Non Meuang; r
340-1000B; a) The Sirichai boasts similar stand-
ards as the Lert Nimit, though the cheaper
rooms are a little bigger and better. Smiling
staff make up for the lack of atmosphere.
vendors near the park on Th Ratchathan stay
open early to late.
Getting There & Away
Nakhonchai Air (%0 4481 2522), with evening-only
services to Ubon Ratchathani (air-con 510B,
six hours) and Chiang Mai (VIP 750B, four
hours), and Air Chaiyaphum (%0 4481 1556), with
hourly services to Bangkok, have their own
southern offices.
Government buses to/from Khon Kaen (or-
dinary/air-con 70/85B, 2 hours, hourly),
Khorat (ordinary/air-con 60/108B, two hours,
hourly) and Bangkoks Northern bus terminal
(air-con 270B, five hours, 14 daily) use Chai-
yaphums bus terminal.
Getting Around
A tk-tk should cost no more than 25B for
any destination in town.
KHON KAEN & ROI ET
But with fine eateries, swanky hotel rooms
and plenty of places to wear holes in your
dancing shoes, Khon Kaen is the ideal spot
to decompress after humping it through the
northeasts quieter corners.
History
The city gets its name from Phra That Kham
Kaen, a revered chedi at Wat Chetiyaphum in
the village of Ban Kham, 32km to the northeast.
Legend says that early in the last millennium a
that (four-sided, curvilinear reliquary stupa)
was built over a tamarind tree stump that mi-
raculously came to life after a contingent of
monks carrying Buddha relics to Phra That Pha-
nom (in todays Nakhon Phanom Province)
camped here overnight. There was no room
at That Phanom for more relics, so the monks
returned to this spot and enshrined the relics
in the new That Kham Kaen (Tamarind Heart-
wood Reliquary). A town developed nearby,
but was abandoned several times until 1789
when a Suwannaphum ruler founded a city at
the current site, which he named Kham Kaen
Vietnam (%0 4324 1586; Th Chatapadung; h8.30-
11.30am & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) Visas ready next day.
EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES
Khon Kaen Ram Hospital (%0 4333 3800; Th Si
Chan) For specialist and 24-hour emergency care.
Tourist police (%1155; Th Mittaphap) Next to
HomePro.
INTERNET ACCESS
There are dozens of internet cafs in town.
Meeting Net (no roman-script sign; 54/6 Th Klang
Meuang; per hr 15B; h24hr)
MONEY
There are banks with exchange and ATM fa-
cilities across Khon Kaen.
Siam Commercial Bank (Th Si Chan, Oasis Plaza;
h10.30am-8pm) One of several banks in this area.
POST
Main post office (Th Klang Meuang; h8.30am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)

Siam River Resort (%0 4481 1999; off Th Bannakan;

r 800-1800B, ste 3500B; a) Chaiyaphum doesnt
cater to droves of tourists, but this shiny new
hotel out of earshot of the hubbub of the city
(what little there is, anyway) is betting this will
change. Free bikes for guest use.
Eating
Jae Hai Lek (no roman-script sign; %0 4607 7819; Th
Tantawan; dishes 20-55B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A
simple, friendly all-vegetarian affair with a
range of Thai and Chinese standards.
Green House (%08 7245 2622; 299/20 Th Non-
thankhon; dishes 35-150B; hdinner) The most laid-
back of several garden restaurants on this end
of Th Nonthankhon, and the only one with an
English menu (though it lists just a few of the
many dishes available). The food and service
are excellent.
Reun Rom (%0 4481 1522; 447 Th Niwetrat; dishes
30-800B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; a) The Lert
Nimit Hotels restaurant serves good Thai
and Western food, including pancakes, and
the menu lists four pages of seafood. It is open
right through to the witching hour.
You might want to try mahm (sour beef
and liver) sausages in Chaiyaphums lacklus-
tre night market (h5-10pm), a short stroll west
of the city centre, since locals claim it makes
Isans best. There are also two food-only night
markets by the bus terminal, and the street
PROVINCES
Khon Kaen and Roi Et, where farming and
textiles still dominate life, lie at the heart
of Isan and are excellent places to dip a toe
into the regions culture without having to
rough it. On the flipside, things are booming
in Khon Kaen itself and the city makes for a
lively stopover if you fancy a quick slug of
metropolitan living.
KHON KAEN
*vocdjo
pop 145,300
Khon Kaen is the darling of Isans economic
boomtime. The skyline rises high, neon illu-
minates the night, and a bumper crop of bars
and restaurants entertain an expanding mid-
dle class. As the site of the northeasts largest
university and an important hub for all things
commercial and financial, the city is youthful,
educated and on the move.
Of course, not everyone will feel the urge
to celebrate in Khon Kaens downtown clubs.
With a sterile concrete veneer blanketing most
of the centre, this big city has inherited lit-
tle of Isans idiosyncratic appeal. Wandering
through traffic, with office blocks above, it
sometimes takes the elephants, trudging down
the busy city-centre streets, to remind you that
you are in Thailand at all.
after the chedi. Over the years the name has
changed to Khon Kaen (Heartwood Log).
TOURIST INFORMATION
TAT (%0 4324 4498; www.tourismthailand.org; 15/5 Th
Prachasamoson; h8.30am-4.30pm) Distributes maps of
Orientation & Information the city and can answer queries on Khon Kaen and the sur-
Khon Kaen has two nearly adjacent tourist rounding provinces. It has information about an informal
centres. Most budget and midrange hotels lie temple-stay programme at Wat Tee Pak Sonk Sa Wang
between the bus stations, on or near Th Klang Porn in Amphoe Khao Suan Kwang.
Meuang. The upmarket choices are all a quick
hop to the southeast in the citys nightlife dis- TRAVEL AGENCIES
trict. There are good eats in both places. Air Booking & Travel Centre (%0 4324 4482; 403
Th Si Chan; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Books flights and
CONSULATES makes other travel arrangements.
Laos (%0 4324 2858; 171 Th Prachasamoson; h8am-
noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Normal turnaround for visas is Sights
three days, but for an extra 200B you can get immediate Although it doesnt seem like it at first look,
service. It only accepts baht, and at a poor exchange rate. there is more to do in Khon Kaen than revel in
TIES THAT BIND THAIS
To occupy yourself on long bus rides through Isan, do a survey of passengers wearing thin white
strings around their wrists. In rural villages in Isan, elders and family members assemble to tie fi
phuk khen (sacred thread) as a bon voyage measure. The strings act as leashes for important
guardian spirits and ensure safety during a trip or success in a new venture. The ceremony is
also used on newlyweds.
Strings are also strung on wrists in a similar ceremony, known as phuk saw (friend bonding),
most famously celebrated in Khon Kaen (see p477) to cement friendships with ones closest
confidants. More than just a symbolic ritual, the friends gain a standing on par with siblings in
each others families.
Some people believe that these strings must fall off naturally rather than be cut, but this can
take weeks, turning sacred thread into stinky thread.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
476 K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S K h o n K a e n lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S K h o n K a e n 477

KHON KAEN 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles INFORMATION Kaen Inn...................................17 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
To Udon Air Booking & Travel Centre....... 1 C3 Khon Kaen Hotel...................... 18 C2 Fairy Plaza................................ 35 C4
27 Th Lang S 34
Thani unratchak Khon Kaen Ram Hospital............2 A2 Kosa Hotel................................19 C3 Iyara......................................... 36 C4
an
(111km)
Lao Consulate............................. 3 D2 Phu Inn.....................................20 C3 Kosa Bowl...............................(see 37)
10
Main Post Office........................ 4 C3 Roma Hotel..............................21 C2 Oasis Plaza................................37 B3
Meeting Net............................... 5 C2 Rossukond Hotel.......................22 C2 Rad Pub....................................38 B3
8 Police Station..............................6 C3 Saen Sumran Hotel................... 23 C2 U-Bar........................................39 B3
Th Sun Ra
tchakan
Siam Commercial Bank...........(see 37) Sri Mongkol Hotel.................... 24 C2
Tourism Authority of Thailand SHOPPING

uang
Provincial
Hall (TAT)...................................... 7 C2 EATING Khon Kaen OTOP Center......... 40 C3

Th Klang Me
Bualuang Restaurant................. 25 C4 Lao Khao..................................(see 8)
Th Na Soo SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Covered Night Market............(see 20) Naem Laplae.............................41 C2
To Airport (1km); n Ratchaka
Phitsanulok (295km) n
Beung Art & Culture Museum................8 A1 Food Stalls................................26 C2 Prathamakhan Local Goods
Th Prac 46 Thung
hasamo Sang Khon Kaen City Museum............ 9 C4 Kai Yang Rabeab.......................27 C1 Centre.................................. 42 C3
son
22 Khon Kaen National Museum....10 C1 Kao Tom Pae Tee......................28 C2 Rin Thai Silk..............................43 C3
Ratchadanuson
Park 7 Wat That.................................. 11 C4 Kiwi Caf.................................. 29 C4 Sueb San................................(see 41)
14
Th Phimph Kosa Coffee Shop...................(see 19) Talat Bobae.............................. 44 C3
p

ase 28
ha

ut 41
SLEEPING Open-air Night
ap

18 23
it t

3
Chaipat Hotel........................... 12 C2 Market..................................30 C3 TRANSPORT
M

21 24
Th

rak

26 Europe Guest House................. 13 C4 Pizza Uno................................. 31 C3 Air-Con Bus Terminal................ 45 C2

hepa

Th Amma
t 5 First Choice...............................14 C2 Plaa Pha Noi............................. 32 D4 Ordinary Bus Terminal.............. 46 C2
2 17 Grand Leo Mansion..................15 B3 Restaurant Didine......................33 B3 Thai Airways
Th T

12 45
Hotel Sofitel..............................16 B3 Tawantong............................... 34 D1 International.......................(see 16)

Th Robmuang

ung
Lak

atapad
Meuang 20

37 Festivals & Events sound sleeper the walls are thin. There are

Th Ch
15 40 T h Si C
ran

4
1 han The Silk Fair and the Phuk Siaw Festival are held concrete-block air-con rooms at the back.
asum

16 19 44
33 6 simultaneously over 12 days starting in late Grand Leo Mansion (%0 4332 7745; 62-62/1 Th Si
rach

38 39 31
Soi Na Muang To Klum Phrae November. Centred on the Provincial Hall Chan; r 350-450B; a) This homogenous place,
Th P

43
ang

Train Phan (800m);

Station Th C Vietnamese (salaa klaang), the festival celebrates, and around the corner from Disco Street, is func-
Meu

Th Reun Municipal heta

khon Consulate (850m);
Rom Market Kalasin (75km); seeks to preserve, the tradition of phuk saw tional and a little frumpy, but the spotless
Th Lang

42 Roi Et (111km)
30
Th C
h uan
chun
(friend bonding), a ritual renewal of the bonds rooms promise a good nights sleep no matter
of friendship during which fai phuk kan (sac- at what hour you stumble back.
red thread) are tied around ones wrists (see Roma Hotel (%0 4333 4444; 50/2 Th Klang Meuang;
euang

35
p475). Other activities include parades, Isan r 230-550B; a) The Romas air-con rooms are
T h Na M

13 36 music, folk dancing, and the preparation and good value, spotless and comfy, and the fan
Th Nikorn Samran Th
sharing of Isan food. rooms arewell, good value and comfy. Un-
32
11 Khon Kaen kick-starts Songkran, the Thai fortunately, the hotel has some noisy neigh-
Ro

9
bbu

Th Robbung Paddleboat
Rental New Year, on 8 April, with parades of floats bours, so you might get an early wake-up
ng

2 Th K a
siko
To Tourist Police (450m);
Chonabot (57km);
Prasat Penny Noi (66km)
the nightlife and shop for souvenirs. First stop
should be the Khon Kaen National Museum (%0
4324 6170; Th Lang Sunratchakan; admission 30B; h9am-
4pm), which has an interesting collection of
artefacts from prehistoric times to the present,
including a Dvaravati smaa (temple bound-
ary marker) from Kalasin depicting Princess
Pimpa washing Lord Buddhas feet with her
hair, and Ban Chiang painted pottery.
The National Museums household and ag-
ricultural displays shed light on what youll see
out in the countryside, but for a more indepth
introduction to Isan, visit the excellent and
engaging Khon Kaen City Museum (Hong Munmung;
%0 4327 1173; Th Rop Buengkaen Nakhon; admission 90B;
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat), with dioramas and displays
going back to the Jurassic period.
To Wat Nong
n Sam
ra n Wang Muang
Beung 25
bedecked with flowers. call.
(700m) To Biggie &
Kaen
Nakhon Biggoe Place
29 (720m)
Sleeping MIDRANGE
BUDGET Europe Guesthouse (%0 4327 1083; www.europe
The Art & Culture Museum (%0 4333 2035; admis- Saen Sumran Hotel (%0 4323 9611; 55-59 Th Klang -khonkaen.com; 23/5 Th Nikorn Samran; r 440-490B; ai)
sion free; h10am-7pm) at Khon Kaen University Meuang; s 150-200B, d 250B) The citys oldest hotel This Dutch-owned place is no fancier than the
is also informative about Isan history and cul- is also its most charismatic with the wooden big places in this class, but its six rooms are far
ture, but only if you read Thai. The ground- front holding onto its once-upon-a-time glory. cosier. A tiny fan room goes for just 150B, but,
floor gallery sometimes has art exhibits. The rooms are a little shaky, but scrubbed like the others, still has TV and fridge.
Beung Kaen Nakhon (Kaen Nakhon Pond), spotless, and an eclectic mix of decoration Phu Inn (%0 4324 3174; off Th Lang Meuang; r 350-
a 100-hectare lake lined with eateries and provides colour downstairs. 500B; a) The views of the car park at the centre
walkways, attracts early-evening strollers and First Choice (%0 4333 2374; 18/8 Th Phimphaseut; r of this Chinese-oriented place dont look so
smoochers to its banks. At the northern end 150-200B) This friendly little caf is the citys good but, at these prices, the rooms do.
of the lake is Wat That (Th Robbung; hdaylight proto backpacker hostel, with no-frills rooms Chaipat Hotel (%0 4333 3055; 106/3 Soi Na Meuang;
hours), with elongated spires typical of this upstairs and a traveller-friendly eatery below. r 370-600B; a) Housed in a plain white tower
area, and at the south end is Wat Nong Wang Plane tickets, massage and travel advice are just off Th Na Meuang, this reasonable place
Muang (Th Robbung; hdaylight hours), with its available. Bathrooms are shared. features smiley staff, marble floors and, if the
gorgeous nine-tier chedi. Inside youll find Sri Mongkol Hotel (no roman-script sign; %0 4323 brochure is to be believed, a uniformed lady
enlightening murals depicting Khon Kaen 7939; 61-67 Th Klang Meuang; r 150-300B; a) The clutching a cocktail in every room.
history, historical displays and a staircase wooden front of this place also has a certain Biggie & Biggoe Place (%0 4332 2999; Th Robbung;
to the top. tumbledown charm, but youll have to be a r 550-650B; ai) If youre in Khon Kaen to
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
478 K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S K h o n K a e n
relax rather than live it up, this midsize hotel
at the foot of the lake is a good bet. Rooms are
rather simple and bland, but as it went up in
2005 there are none of the irritating quirks so
common in older hotels.
Rossukond Hotel (%0 4323 7797; 1/11 Th Klang
Meuang; r 600-700B; a) With wood-panelled
walls and womb-red dcor, the lobby of this
good-value midranger has more character
than most of the other options combined.
The balconied rooms are also relatively fresh
on the dcor front, and if youre a stickler
for detail, theres a hygienic paper cover on
every toilet seat.
Khon Kaen Hotel (%0 4333 3222; 43/2 Th Phim-
phaseut; r 650-1200B; a) This seven-storey place
also bags a few points for atmosphere, with a
pleasant maroon paint job downstairs and the
odd nod to traditional dcor throughout. The
hotel remains functional rather than fabu-
lous, but the lower-priced rooms, each with
a private balcony, are definitely above average
for this class.
Kaen Inn (%0 4324 5420; kaeninnhotel@yahoo.com;
56 Th Klang Meuang; r 660-1400B; ai) Long since
toppled as the towns top spot, the Kaen Inn is
looking rather sorry for itself on the outside,
but get through the door and youll find an
excellent midranger.
TOP END
Kosa Hotel (%0 4332 0320; www.kosahotel.com; 250-
252 Th Si Chan; s 1140-1380B, d 1260-1500B; ais)
Only a little less glitzy than its neighbour the
Sofitel, this fantastic-value place (unless its
full and jacks up the rates) is a good top-end
choice and offers excellent facilities and slick
service.
Hotel Sofitel (%0 4332 2155; www.sofitel.com; 9/9 Th
Prachasumran; r 2600B; ais) A stunning lobby
sets the tone for one of Isans best hotels. This
international-standard Accor-run place in the
heart of the citys nightlife district has plenty
of razzle-dazzle, big well-equipped rooms, a
gym and even its own microbrews.
Eating & Drinking
Khon Kaen has a fabulous array of restaurants
and is the place to satisfy your cravings before
heading back out into the countryside.
Tawantong (%0 4333 0389; 227/129 Th Lang
Sunratchakan; per plate 40B; hbreakfast & lunch) This large
all-veggie, health-food restaurant sits across
from the National Museum. The food is so
good it gets many carnivorous diners.
Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com
Kai Yang Rabeab (no roman-script sign; %0 4324
3413; Th Lang Sunratchakan; chicken 90B; hlunch) Many
locals believe Khon Kaen has Thailands best
ki yang (grilled chicken) and this simple
joint, serving an all-Isan menu, gets the most
nods as best of the best.
First Choice (%0 4333 2374; 18/8 Th Phimphaseut;
dishes 30-180B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This travel-
ler-style eatery-hostel has some tasty break-
fasts, smoothies, and a good range of Western
and Thai dishes, including vegetarian options.
Eat inside or on a little terrace surrounded by
potted plants.
Kao Tom Pae Tee (no roman-script sign; %0 4324
1932; Th Klang Meuang; dishes 50-150B; hdinner) This
no-frills local haunt lacks a little in dcor, but
serves up a mean tm yam (spicy and sour
soup made with seafood or chicken) until
3am, and has an English menu.
Plaa Pha Noi (no roman-script sign; %0 4322 4694; Th
Robbung; dishes 40-200B; hlunch & dinner) This large,
alfresco spot near Beung Kaen Nakhon spe-
cialising in seafood is where locals bring out-
of-town guests to sample Isan food. Elephants
sometimes perform in the park out the front.
Restaurant Didine (%08 7189 3864; Th Prachasumran;
dishes 40-200B; hlunch & dinner) As much a bar as
a restaurant, as the two-page drinks list at-
tests, the French chef whips up superb food,
like tuna steak with saffron, that belies the
simple surrounds. Its also got pub grub and
Thai standards.
Bualuang Restaurant (%0 4322 2504; Th Rop Bueng-
kaen Nakhon; dishes 60-350B; hlunch & dinner; a) Ask
a local out for dinner and they will probably
want to go here. Perched on a pier over Beung
Kaen Nakhon, it serves up a great spread of
Thai, Isan and Chinese dishes in a largely
alfresco setting.
Also recommended:
Kiwi Caf (%0 4322 8858; 311/13 Th Robbung;
50-115B; hdinner Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner Sat & Sun)
Coffee, wine, cottage pie and, we swear, the best cakes
and pies in Isan.
Pizza Uno (%0 4322 0604; 340/3 Soi Na Muang; large
pizza 189B; hlunch & dinner) Might be the best za in
the city, and the rooftop patio is a nice touch.
Kosa Coffee Shop (%0 4332 0320; 250-252 Th Si
Chan; dishes 100-600B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner;
a) Serves an excellent lunch buffet (179B) and the beer
garden out the front is pleasant.
Two night markets (h5pm-midnight), a covered
one near the air-con bus terminal and an open-
air affair on Th Reun Rom on the south side
lonelyplanet.com K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S
of the Municipal Market, are the life and soul
of the budget eating scene. Many food stalls (Th
Klang Meuang) also open up between Th Ammat
and the Roma Hotel in the late afternoon. For
cheap eats around the high-priced hotels, hit
the 5th-floor food court at Oasis Plaza (Th Si Chan;
dishes 20-40B; hlunch & dinner) shopping centre.
Entertainment
Khon Kaens exuberant nightlife is centred
on Th Prachasumran, also known as Disco
Street, where clubs and bars run wild to mild.
Most get going around 10pm and few charge
a cover.
Rad Pub (%0 4322 5987; Th Prachasumran) One
anchor is this multifaceted place, with two
rooms of live music, one loud and one soft,
coyote dancers, and an alfresco restaurant
and coffee shop.
U-Bar (%0 4332 0434; off Th Prachasumran) Has a
student-filled dance floor, behind the Sofitel.
Iyara (%0 4332 2855; 43 Th Robbung; dishes
55-250B; hdinner) This place has a ponglang
(percussion instrument made of short logs)
music, dance and comedy show every night
at 7.30pm, but if the show is cancelled, dont
worry with a Khmer-style art theme, this is
the loveliest restaurant in the city so its worth
the trip anyway.
The cineplexes at Fairy Plaza (Th Na Meuang) and
Oasis Plaza (Th Si Chan) shopping centres often
screen films in English. Kosa Bowl (per game 59B;
h11am-2am) has 30 lanes atop Oasis Plaza.
Shopping
Khon Kaen is the best places to buy Isan hand-
icrafts; the selection of shops is excellent.
Klum Phrae Phan (%0 4333 7216; 131/193 Th Chata-
padung; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Run by the Handicraft
Centre for Northeastern Womens Develop-
ment, this out-of-the-way store has a superb
collection of natural-dyed, hand-woven silk
and cotton produced in nearby villages.
Sueb San (no roman-script sign; %0 4334 4072; Th
Klang Meuang; h8am-6.30pm) More accessible than
Phrae Phan, this store also stocks natural-dyed
fabrics, plus some atypical Isan souvenirs.
Lao Khao (%0 4333 2035; h10am-7pm) The gift
shop at the Art & Culture museum (p476)
carries both traditional crafts and modern
art, and some interesting combinations of
the two.
Rin Thai Silk (%0 4322 0705; 412 Th Na Meuang;
h8am-7pm) Locals, especially brides-to-be,
looking for top-quality silk shop here.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
K h o n K a e n 479
Prathamakhan Local Goods Center (%0 4322 4080;
79/2-3 Th Reun Rom; h9am-8.30pm Thu-Tue) This outlet
has both textiles and handicrafts (including
plenty of silver) and is a good one-stop shop
if you dont have the time or inclination to
spend the day trawling through the smaller
stores. Dont miss the knick-knack and handi-
craft display at the back.
Khon Kaen OTOP Center (%0 4332 0320; Th Si Chan;
h9am-8pm) This large handicrafts store is most
convenient to the top-end hotels, but is pre-
dictably touristy and pricey as well.
Naem Laplae (no roman-script sign; %0 4323 6537;
32 Th Klang Meuang; h6am-9.30pm Mon-Thu, 6am-10pm
Fri-Sun) You can follow the fabulous aromas to
this old-school Isan food store (if youve got
a cold, look out for the bright yellow-and-red
shopfront), the largest of several in this area,
which sells everything from dried fish to fat,
flavoursome sausages, most notably nem,
made of raw pickled pork.
The most enjoyable souvenir-shopping
experience is looking for the handful of peo-
ple selling traditional baskets and wooden
items hidden away within the food, clothes
and household-goods stalls in Talat Bobae (Th
Klang Meuang).
Getting There & Away
AIR
THAI (Thai Airways International; %0 4322 7701; www
.thaiairways.com; 9/9 Th Prachasumran, Hotel Sofitel; h8am-
5pm Mon-Fri) operates three services daily be-
tween Bangkok and Khon Kaen (one way
2305B, 55 minutes). The airport (%0 4324 6345)
is just west of the city off Hwy 12.
BUS
Both the ordinary bus terminal (%0 4323 7472;
Th Prachasamoson) and the air-con bus terminal
(%0 4323 9910; Th Klang Meuang) are central and
convenient.
Air-con buses leave to/from Bangkoks
Northern bus terminal (329B, 6 hours,
every half-hour) from 6am to midnight. VIP
service starts at 440B. Other air-con destina-
tions from Khon Kaen include Chiang Mai
(542B, 12 hours, 8pm and 9pm only), Nakhon
Phanom (238B, five hours, four daily), Nong
Khai (148B, 3 hours, four daily), Pattaya
(416B, nine hours, 10 daily), Roi Et (99B, two
hours, four daily) and Udon Thani (104B, two
hours, every 20 minutes).
There are ordinary buses from Khon Kaen to
Chaiyaphum (70B, 2 hours, hourly), Khorat
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

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480 K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S A r o u n d K h o n K a e n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S A r o u n d K h o n K a e n 481

(125B, three hours, every 30 minutes) and Roi
Et (50B, two hours, every 40 minutes).
TRAIN
Khon Kaen is on the BangkokNong Khai
line. Express trains leave from Bangkoks
Hualamphong station for the Khon Kaen
train station (%0 4322 1112) at 8.20am, 6.30pm
and 8.45pm, arriving about eight hours later.
Bangkok-bound express trains leave Khon
Kaen at 8.37am, 8.11pm and 9.05pm. The
fares to Bangkok are 227/399/1068B for a 3rd-
class seat/2nd-class seat/1st-class sleeper.
Getting Around
A regular, colour-coded swngthew system
plies the city for 8B per ride. The TAT office
has a city map showing all the routes, but ask
if its the old, outdated one or an updated
version before relying on it too heavily. Mo-
torcycle taxis charge about 25B for a medium-
length trip though town, while tk-tk drivers
will want 40B to 60B. A shuttle runs from the
airport to most hotels for 60B.
Theres a plethora of car-rental outlets
around the Kosa Hotel and Sofitel, and First
AROUND KHON KAEN
228
Phu Wiang Phu Wiang
Choice Guesthouse has a bike for rent for
50B per day.
AROUND KHON KAEN
Chonabot
(o[m
This small town located 55km southwest of
Khon Kaen is one of Thailands most suc-
cessful silk villages. The easiest place to see
the fabrics is at Sala Mai Thai (Thai Silk Pavilion; no
roman-script sign; %0 4328 6160; donations appreciated;
h8am-5pm), a resource centre for the local
silk industry on the campus of Khon Kaen
Industrial & Community Education College.
There are a couple of traditional northeastern
wooden houses with looms and other artefacts
(ask the staff to unlock them), plus an exhibi-
tion hall cataloguing traditional mt-mi pat-
terns. The campus is 1km west of Chonabot
on Rte 229.
The pavilion sells silk, too, but most people
buy from the shops on Th Sribunreung (aka Silk
Road), though textiles can be purchased di-
rectly from silk-weaving houses in Chonabot
look for the tell-tale looms beneath the
wooden homes. Even if youre not interested
0 20 km
0 12 miles
Ban Nam Pong
2109
Nam Phong
2039
Ubon To Udon Ban Khok Sa-Nga
Kranuan
Mae
in buying, its worth wandering around to
look at the amazing variety of simple wooden
contraptions devised to spin, tie, weave and
dry silk.
Some well-known weaving households in-
clude those belonging to Khun Suwan, Khun
Songkhram, Khun Chin and Khun Thongsuk.
Very little English is spoken in Chonabot, so
it helps considerably if you bring someone
along who knows Thai.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses bound for Nakhon Sawan, departing
hourly from Khon Kaens ordinary bus ter-
minal, will drop you in Chonabot (50B, one
hour).
Prasat Peuay Noi
xiklkmgxnvpohvp
Also known as Ku Peuay Noi, and locally
as That Ku Thong, the 12th-century Khmer
temple Prasat Peuay Noi (admission free; hdaylight
hours) is the largest and most interesting Khmer
ruin in northern Isan, though it cant compete
with the famous sites further south. About
the size of Burirams Prasat Meuang Tam,
the east-facing monument, rich in sculpted
lintels, comprises a large central sandstone
sanctuary surmounted by a partially collapsed
KALASIN prang and surrounded by laterite walls with
two major gates.
Royal Majesty, Princess Sirindhorn). Dino-
saur fever followed (explaining the epidemic
of model dinosaurs in Khon Kaen), more re-
mains were uncovered and Phu Wiang National
Park (%0 4324 9052, reservations 0 2562 0760; admis-
sion 400B; h8.30am-4.30pm), northwest of Khon
Khaen, was born.
Four enclosed excavation sites, including
one with a partial skeleton of Siamotyrannus
isanensis, an early ancestor of Tyrannosaurus
Rex, can be easily reached by trail from the
visitor centre or nearby parking areas. Park
guides (some speak a little English) offer free
tours of the bone sites if you call in advance.
Those who want to explore further (best done
by car or mountain bike) will find dinosaur
footprints, waterfalls and prehistoric cave
paintings.
The Phu Wiang Museum (%0 4343 8204; admis-
sion free; h9am-5pm), 5km before the park, has
geology and palaeontology displays, including
full-size models of the dinosaur species that
have been found in the area.
The park has camp sites (per person 30B, 3-
sleeper tent hire 225B) and a bungalow (up to 12 people
1800B).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The park entrance is 90km west of the provin-
cial capital. Nong Bualamphubound buses
from Khon Kaens ordinary bus terminal stop

National Park Nong Kung Si

Thani (85km) Cobra Village
Ratana
Kham Yai
in Phu Wiang town (ordinary/air-con 38/50B,
Na

2152 Huay Mek GETTING THERE & AWAY 1 hours, hourly). Its best to get off down-
m

To Nam Nao 2038

National Park (45km);
Phitsanulok (214km) 2183 If you have your own wheels, head 44km town, not at the bus terminal, where you can
Ph

Wang To
south from Khon Kaen on Hwy 2 to Ban Phai, hire a tk-tk (one way/return 200/400B) or
on
g

Chumphae That
KHON KAEN
Kham
Kaen Krabuan then east on Hwy 23 (signposted to Borabu) motorbike taxi (50B less each way) for the
12 Ban
Nong
Nong Reua
Fang for 11km to the turn-off to Rte 2301. Follow remaining 19km to the park entrance. If you
Song
Hong
Sam Suan Khon Kaen it and Rte 2297 for 24km southeast through a only pay for a one-way trip youll risk not
Hua
Ban Thaen
Phu Sapao
Yang Kham Chiang Yun Naka scenic tableau of rice fields to Ban Peuay Noi. being able to get a ride back, and hitching
Kham 209
(758m) Kaen Tai
Phra Yun Khuan
The ruins are at the western end of town. is tough.
Phu
Khiaw Tha Phra By public transport from Khon Kaen, catch
Nong Bua
Phak Kwian Kuan Kat 2237
Kantharawichai
a bus (35B, one hour) or the 7.55am local Nam Nao National Park
CHAIYAPHUM
229 208
Kosum Pisai
Ban Kee
213
train (9B, 30 minutes) to Ban Phai, then a v=mpkocsj'(k^boksok;
swngthew to Peuay Noi (25B, 30 minutes). One of Thailands most beautiful and valuable
23
2300
Mahasarakham The last swngthew back to Ban Phai leaves parks, Nam Nao National Park (%0 5672 9002, reser-
i
Ch

2
Wat Mongkon
Khirikhet m
2322
Peuay Noi around 2pm. vations 0 2562 0760; admission 400B; h6am-10pm) covers
Manchakhiri La MAHASARAKHAM To Roi Et
Kaeng Khlo
Dong Klang
Borabeu
(31km) nearly 1000 sq km at an average elevation
229 e
Nam Chonabot Reserve Phu Wiang National Park of 800m across the border of Chaiyaphum
Ma
Na Chan
Ban Phai 23 Sum Hat Borabu
2040
v=mpkocsj'(k^b#)g;up' and Phetchabun Provinces, just beyond Khon
Nong Mae When uranium miners discovered a dino- Kaen Province. Although it covers remote
Nong Don Wan
Nok Nam Nong
Wang Reserve
2240
Tuptao saurs patella bone in this region in 1976, pal- territory this remained a Peoples Libera-
201 Khon
Waeng Yai 219 aeontologists were soon to follow, excavating tion Army of Thailand (PLAT) stronghold
2297
Sawan
2301 the top of Phu Pratutima and unearthing a until the early 1980s Hwy 12 makes ac-
2054 To Nakhon
Ratchasima
Lak Dan Prasat
Peuay Noi
Peuay Noi Huay fossilised 15m-long herbivore later named cess easy. Temperatures are fairly cool year-
Nong Ta Kai Kho
(118km)
Phuwianggosaurus sirindhornae (after Her round, especially nights and mornings, and
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
482 K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S R o i E t lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S R o i E t 483

frost occasionally occurs between November GETTING THERE & AWAY ROI ET 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
and February. The village is northeast of Khon Kaen via To Airport (13km);
Marked by the sandstone hills of the Phet- Hwy 2 and Rte 2039. By bus, leave from Khon A B C Kalasin (45km) D

layuk
chabun mountains, the park features dense, Kaens ordinary bus terminal to the turn-off INFORMATION Night Market..................16 D2 11
Bangkok Bank.................1 D2 One-Oh-One.................17 C2
mixed evergreen-deciduous forest on moun- to Ban Khok Sa-Nga (40B, one hour) and

Th Chotchap
Main Post Office.............2 D2 Plaza Department Store...18 D2
tains and hills; open dipterocarp pine-oak then walk or take a tk-tk (50B) for the re- 1 Planet..............................3 D2 White Elephant..............19 D2

Th Haisok
Police Station...................4 D2
forest on plateaus and hills and dense bamboo maining 2km to the stage. If youre driving SHOPPING
mountain forest with wild banana stands in from Khon Kaen, you cant miss it as there SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Lak Meuang....................5 C2
Craft Shops................... 20 D2
OTOP Center................ 21 D2
river valleys, plus scattered savannah on the are many signs. Roi Et Aquarium..............6 C2
plains. Three rivers are sourced here: the Chi, Roi Et National Museum..7
Walking Buddha Statue...8
D2
C2
TRANSPORT
999 VIP.......................(see 22) 10 20
Saphung and Phrom. A fair system of trails ROI ET Wat Burapha................... 9 D2 Bus Terminal..................22 B2
Th
Th Phadun
g Phan
it
9

branches out from the visitor centre to sev- ihvpgvHf Wat Neua..................... 10 C2

Su
Paddleboat 1 14
To Mahasarakham

nth
Rental
eral scenic viewpoints. The park also features pop 36,000 SLEEPING (41km); Khon Thai Military

ok
rnth
Kaen (110km) 17 8 Bank
Phetcharat Garden
waterfalls and caves, some of which are easily Three centuries ago, Roi Et served as a buffer

ung Dann
charat
Beung 16

e
Hotel.........................11 D1

p
13

Th Ploenchit
Phlan 5

Th
2 3
reached by car along the highway. Nam Naos between the clashing Thai and Lao armies. Phrae Thong Hotel........12 D2 Chai 12

prat
Su
Saithip Hotel................. 13 D2 Th Santisuk 19

nt
highest peak, Phu Pha Jit, reaches a height of Back at that time, it had 11 city gates, one for Th 2 21

Th Robm
Jan 6 City

ho

Th Pran
gsa nth Gate

r
22 nit ep 18
1271m and, with a park service guide leading each of its 11 vassal colonies; its name, which EATING
Th Suriyadet
15 7
Medsai..........................14 D2 Bamrung 4
the way, you can camp on the top. means one hundred one, is probably a typi- Night Market.................15 D2 To Ku Phra To Yasothon
(69km)
The 1560-sq-km Phu Khiaw Wildlife Sanctuary cally macho exaggeration of this number. Koh Na (60km)

lies adjacent to the park so wildlife is abundant,
but the animals here are more timid than at
nearby Phu Kradung National Park, and so are
sighted less often. Elephants and banteng (wild
cattle) are occasionally seen, as well as Malayan
sun bears, leopards, tigers, Asian jackals, bark-
ing deer, gibbons, pangolins and flying squir-
rels. Over 200 species of bird, including parrots
and hornbills, fly through the park.
Accommodation includes a camp site (per per-
son with own tent 30B, 2-person tent hire 50B), huts (2 people
300B) and 17 bungalows (4-person 1000B). There are
restaurants next to the visitor centre.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses between Khon Kaen (102B, 2 hours)
and Phitsanulok travel through the park fre-
quently. The visitor centre is a 1.5km walk
from the highway.
Ban Khok Sa-Nga Cobra Village
F%i'dkivo=iydKN')&'vk'
The self-styled King Cobra Village of Ban
Khok Sa-Nga has a thing about snakes. Locals
rear hundreds of the reptiles, and most houses
have some in boxes under their houses. The
strange custom began when a herb farmer Phu
Yai Ken Yongla began putting on snake shows
to attract customers to the village, and the
art of breeding and training snakes has been
nurtured ever since. Today the King Cobra Club
(donations expected; h8am-6pm) hosts short shows
where handlers taunt snakes and tempt fate:
they often lose, as the many missing fingers
show. Medicinal herbs are still sold and other
animals are on display in pitiful little cages.
Roi Ets long history hasnt followed it into
the 21st century; orderly and modern, you can
almost smell the drying paint on some of the
citys grander buildings. But while most of its
historic monuments have vanished into foggy
memory, Roi Et retains a charm and sense of
identity all of its own. You cant call Roi Et
sleepy, but, perhaps taking its cue from the
walking Buddha on an island in the middle
of Beung Phlan Chai, it does seem to move
to its own urban beat.
Roi Et Province is known for the crafting
of the quintessential Isan musical instrument,
the khaen, a kind of panpipe made of the mi
kuu reed and wood. The best khaen are re-
putedly made in the village of Si Kaew, 15km
northwest of Roi Et. It takes about three days
to make one khaen, depending on its size.
Information
Bangkok Bank (Th Suriyadet Bamrung;
h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM and
exchange facilities.
Main post office (Th Suriyadet Bamrung; h8.30am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & holidays)
Planet (Th Santisuk; per hr 15B; h9am-9pm) Check
your email here.
Police station (%1155; Th Suriyadet Bamrung)
Sights
The large Roi Et National Museum (%0 4351 4456;
Th Ploenchit; admission 30B; h9am-4pm Wed-Sun) gives
equal billing to ancient artefacts unearthed
in the district and Isan cultural displays. The
3rd floor shows materials used to produce a
rainbow of colours in natural-dyed silks.
The tall, standing Buddha towering above failed, to splash a smidgen of glamour onto
Roi Ets minimal skyline is the Phra Phuttha this simple place, but take a room here and
Ratana Mongkon Mahamuni (Phra Sung Yai for your baht will be well spent. Enter from the
short) at Wat Burapha (Th Phadung Phanit; hdaylight car park.
hours). Despite being of little artistic signifi- Phrae Thong Hotel (%0 4351 1127; 45-47 Th Ploen-
cance, its hard to ignore. From the ground chit; r 180-350B; a) Insomniacs will bemoan the
to the tip of the tsnt (flame-shaped head noise drifting up from the road (and perhaps
ornament) its 67.8m high, while head to toe the adjoining quarters since its has a three-
he stands 59.2m. hour rate), but this tidy no-frills spot has some
Wat Neua (Th Phadung Phanit; hdaylight hours), in good-value, little rooms with plenty of natural
the northern quarter of town, is worth seeing light and, less appealingly, squat toilets and
for its 1200-year-old chedi from the Dvara- very hard mattresses.
vati period, Phra Satup Jedi. This chedi has Phetcharat Garden Hotel (%0 4351 9000; Th Chotch-
an unusual four-cornered bell-shaped form aplayuk; r 540-700B; as) Some genuinely chic
that is rare in Thailand. Around the bt are styling earns this attractive place several gold
a few old Dvaravati smaa (temple boundary stars. The lobby showcases serene East-meets-
marker stones) and to one side of the wat is an West dcor, with wooden shutters and tall
inscribed pillar, erected by the Khmers when ceilings, and the immaculate staff (the men
they controlled this area during the 11th and sport cool trousers) are tirelessly attentive.
12th centuries. The standard rooms dont really capture the
Walking paths criss-cross islands in the atmosphere, but are still fantastic value. If you
lake of Beung Phlan Chai and attract the usual can, shell out for the deluxe rooms.
crowd of doting couples, joggers and picnick-
ers. The walking Buddha statue is on the north Eating
side and the lak meuang (city pillar) is to the A lot of large, lively outdoor restaurants sit
south; many more monuments and interest- on Th Chotchaplayuk south of the Phetcharat
ing statuary stand between. Garden Hotel.
There are a few odd-looking fish in the lit- One-Oh-One (%0 4351 4070; Th Sunthornthep; dishes
tle Roi Et Aquarium (%0 4351 1286; Th Sunthornthep; 40-140B; hlunch & dinner) Youll almost always
admission free; h8.30am-4.30pm Wed-Sun) and the find an expat or two lounging over a beer
walk-through tunnel is a nice touch. at Joeys, as this little lakeside place is also
known. Its got a full Western menu, but pizza
Sleeping predominates.
Saithip Hotel (%0 4351 1742; 133 Th Suriyadet Bam- Medsai (no roman-script sign; %0 4352 0338; 160/9
rung; r 210-310B; a) The architect tried, and Th Ploenchit; dishes 30-180B, lunch buffet 49B; hlunch
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

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484 K H O N K A E N & R O I E T P R O V I N C E S R o i E t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U D O N T HA N I P R O V I N C E U d o n T h a n i 485

& dinner; a) Karaoke, Beer Chang and some There are also good shops on Th Phadung AROUND ROI ET Information
decent Thai cooking (no English menu) Phanit, particularly for khaen and other tra- Ku Phra Koh Na EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES
conspire to make this place a big hit with ditional musical instruments. d)jritF%ok Aek Udon International Hospital (%0 4234 2555;
the local crowd. Sit indoors or out on the Around 60km southeast of Roi Et town are 555/5 Th Pho Si) One of the best medical facilities in the
pleasant terrace and watch the sun dip below Getting There & Away the minor ruins of Ku Phra Koh Na (admission upper Northeast.
theermrooftops. PB Air (%0 4351 8572, in Bangkok 0 2261 0222; www.pbair free; hdaylight hours), an 11th-century Khmer Tourist police (%1155; Th Naresuan)
White Elephant (%0 4351 4778; Th Robmung Dannok; .com) flies to/from Bangkok (one way 2225B, shrine. The monument comprises three brick
dishes 40-240B; hlunch & dinner; a) This stylish one hour) daily. There is a ticket office at the prang facing east from a sandstone pediment INTERNET ACCESS
place, along the old moat, has both a Thai airport, which is 13km north of the centre. surrounded by a sandstone-slab wall that Awo Internet (Th Teekathanont; per hr 20B; h10am-
menu and many Western faves, but the spe- From Roi Ets bus terminal (%0 4351 1466; Th once had four gates. The middle prang was midnight) One of several internet cafs on this block.
cialities are German, as is the owner. The out- Jangsanit), frequent buses head to Khon Kaen replastered in 1928 and Buddha niches were
door terrace is surrounded by greenery. (ordinary/air-con 50/99B, two hours), Ubon added. A Buddha footprint shrine, added to MONEY
The main night market (5pm-midnight), a block Ratchathani (ordinary/air-con 80B/148B, the front of this prang, is adorned with the Kasikornbank (Th Teekathanont, Charoensri Complex;
behind the Saithip Hotel, is a covered spot that three hours), Surin (ordinary 50B, three Khmer monuments original Baphuon-style h11am-8pm) One of several banks in the mall. Many
sees a little action during the day, too. A better hours) and Yasothon (ordinary/air-con naga sculptures. The two other prang have more banks, open regular business hours, are lined along
daytime choice for cheap soups and stir-fries 30/50B, one hour). Many air-con buses link been restored (though they still look like they Th Pho Si.
is the food court at the Plaza Department Store Roi Et with Bangkoks Northern bus terminal might tumble over any time) but retain their
(Th Ploenchit; dishes 20-40B hlunch & dinner). (293B, seven hours) and 999 VIP (%0 4351 1466) original forms. The northern prang has a POST
runs one daily 24-seat VIP bus to Bangkok reclining Narai (Vishnu) lintel over one door Main post office (Th Wattananuwong; h8.30am-
Shopping (585B, seven hours) at 9.30pm. and a Ramayana relief on the inside gable. 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)
OTOP Center (Th Pranpratcharat) Construction had The ruins themselves are neither impres-
not quite finished on this handicrafts mall Getting Around sive nor well restored, but its interesting to TOURIST INFORMATION
when we last checked, but surely this will be Samlw usually cost 20B. For a tk-tk, youll see how theyve been incorporated into the TAT (%0 4232 5406; www.tourismthailand.org; Th
the place to shop for silks and souvenirs. pay 10B to 20B more. modern temple. And if that doesnt thrill Thesa; h8.30am-4.30pm) Has information on Udon,
you, spend your time watching the hundreds Loei, Nong Khai and Nong Bualamphu Provinces.
of monkeys that live here; they are part of the
MW LAM & THE KHAEN everyday fabric of the grounds. TRAVEL AGENCIES
Among villages in Isan, the up-tempo Lao-Thai musical tradition of mw lam roughly master Ultinet Travel (%0 4224 8606; 277/44 Th Teekath-
of verse rules. Performances always feature a witty, topical combination of singing and impro- GETTING THERE & AWAY anont h8am-6.30pm) For plane tickets and car rental.
vised or recited speech that ranges across themes as diverse as politics and sex. Very colloquial, Any Surin-bound bus from Roi Et can drop
even bawdy language is employed; this is one art form that has always bypassed government you off at Wat Ku (ordinary/air-con 40/52B, Sights
censors and provides an important outlet for grassroots expression. Mw lam is most commonly 1 hours), as the compound is known lo- UDORN SUNSHINE NURSERY
performed at temple fairs and local festivals. cally, which is 6km south of Suwannaphum v=fi:yo(kpoNgoviNliu
There are four basic types of mw lam. The first, mw lam lang (great mw lam), involves an on Rte 215. Ever seen a plant dance? If not, this is the
ensemble of performers onstage in costume, and these days the dancing sometimes eclipses the place to do it. Originally earning notoriety
music. Mw lam khu (couple mw lam) features a man and woman who engage in flirtation and for producing the first ever orchid made into
verbal repartee. Mw lam jt (duelling mw lam) has two performers of the same gender who
duel by answering questions or finishing an incomplete story issued as a challenge. Finally, mw
UDON THANI PROVINCE a perfume, the Udorn Sunshine Nursery (%0 4224
2475; 127 Th Udorn-Nong Samrong; h8am-6.30pm), just
lam daw (solo mw lam) involves only one performer. UDON THANI west of town, has since developed a hybrid of
The backbone of mw lam is the khaen, a wind instrument consisting of a double row of v=fiTkou Codariocalyx motorius ohashi leguminosae,
bamboo-like reeds fitted into a hardwood soundbox. The rows can be as few as four or as many pop 227,200 which curiously dances to music. The mature
as eight (for a total of 16 pipes), and the instruments vary in length from around 80cm to 2m. Udon Thani has one foot on the highway gyrant has long oval leaves, plus smaller ones
Around the turn of the 20th century there were also nine-course khaen, but these have all but and the other off the beaten track. The city of similar shape. If you sing or talk to the
disappeared. Melodies are almost always pentatonic; ie they feature five-note scales. The khaen boomed on the back of the Vietnam War, plant in a high-pitched voice (saxophone or
player blows (as with a harmonica, sound is produced whether the breath is moving in or out) exploding into life as US air bases opened violin works even better), a few of the smaller
into the soundbox while covering or uncovering small holes in the reeds that determine the nearby. Today its become the regions pri- leaves will shift back-and-forth. This is no
pitch for each. An adept player can produce a churning, calliope-like music that inspires dancing. mary transport hub and commercial centre, hype; weve seen it for ourselves, although its
The most popular folk dance is the lam wong, the circle dance, in which couples dance circles and you have to dig deep behind its prosper- much more of a waltz than a jig. The plants
around one another until there are three circles in all: a circle danced by the individual, the circle ous concrete veneer to find any flashes of its are most active from November to February,
danced by the couple and one danced by the whole crowd. past. Because it lacks the urban chutzpah of the cool season, and between 7am to 10am
Traditionally the khaen was accompanied by the saw (a bowed string instrument), although Khon Kaen and the touristy appeal of Nong and 4.30pm to 6.30pm.
the plucked phin is much more common today. In modern mw lam, the khaen and phin are Khai, which is equally convenient for visiting The plants are not for sale, and all flowers
electrically amplified, and electric bass and drums are added to the ensemble to produce a sound wonderful surrounding attractions, Udon sees from plants on public display are removed so
enjoyed by both young and old. few travellers other than a growing number nobody can pilfer them and grow their own.
of sex tourists. You can, however, buy Udon Dancing Tea,
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
486 U D O N T HA N I P R O V I N C E C e n t r a l U d o n T h a n i lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com U D O N T HA N I P R O V I N C E U d o n T h a n i 487

made from the plant, along with the more Marasi Sang Deng Hotel (%0 4234 4131; Th Prajak

To Ban Chiang (50km);

Sakon Nakhon
(171km)
Roongprasert Tour.................(see 30)
Charoensri Complex................ 26 D3

Old Bus Terminal..................... 30 D3

Swngthew to Ban Chiang.... 31 D4

Major Bowling.......................(see 26)
Major Cineplex......................(see 26)
1 km

999 VIP.................................(see 30)

Teenon Meechai .....................27 C3
Udon Bho-Phin Tracha.............28 A1

Bike Hire...................................29 B1

Swngthew to Ban Nong Aw..32 B4

Irish Clock.................................25 E3
famous Miss Udorn Sunshine orchids and Silpakorn; r 250-350B; a) Location, location, loca-
perfumes. The nurserys newest product is tion. This noisy, slightly scruffy place would
0.5 miles

Nong
Toob Moob, a perfume derived (using a secret surely be cheaper if it didnt sit smack between

Bua
recipe and process they wont discuss) from the bus terminal and the Charoensri Com-
F

an insect. plex. On the other hand, the wood floors and

ENTERTAINMENT

8
To get here, go under the Ban Nong Sam- good mattresses are worth a little extra and

TRANSPORT
SHOPPING
DRINKING

rong sign on Rte 2024, then after 150m follow its much better than the other cheapies right

Station
the Udon Sunshine Fragrant Orchid sign. The around this corner.

Train
Yellow Bus and several swngthew pass here.
A tk-tk from Udons city centre should MIDRANGE & TOP END

22
Bella Italia..............................(see 26)
D3

D3

Khrua Khan Dang....................17 D3

Taco Place............................... 24 D3
Maeya ....................................19 C4
B3

Nang Prajak Night Market........20 B2

Rabiang Phatchani....................23 B1
E4

E2

E3

E3

Kitaro.......................................18 E3

Night Market............................21 E3
Night Market............................22 E3
cost about 60B. Charoen Hotel (%0 4224 8155; charoenhotel@hotmail
Charoen Hotel..........................10
Charoensri Grand Royal Hotel..11
City Lodge................................12
King's Hotel..............................13
Marasi Sang Deng Hotel...........14
Queen Hotel............................15
Top Mansion............................16

21
12
amit .com; 549 Th Pho Si; r 800-900B; ais) A few rungs
anth
amp
SANJAO PU-YA CHINESE TEMPLE down the glamour ladder from the top, this

16
E

Th S

Lk]g&hkx)jpjk large business-class hotel is a little dated, but

25
a
Bu

1
The garish Sanjao Pu-Ya (Th Pho Si; hdaylight hours) still offers plenty of trimmings and evening

y
ua
0
0

H
on the southern shore of Nong Bua is a partic- entertainment options.

10
2
6

14 18
SLEEPING

athanont
Th Teek ularly colourful Chinese temple that attests to City Lodge (%0 4222 4439; 83/14-15 Th Wattananu-
EATING

30
the wealth of the local Thai-Chinese merchant wong; r 600-1000B; ai) This British-owned
Chinese

it
i Uth
Temple
11
Th Sa
26
class. At its heart, the Pu-Ya Shrine houses small property is a good example of the new breed

31
17
images of the God and Goddess of Mercy. of small hotel springing up in this area that
Kasikornbank.........................(see 26)

Tourist Police............................. 5 C4
Main Post Office........................3 B2

(TAT).....................................4 B2

Pu-Ya Shrine for Festival.............7 B2

9 isB3
Hospital..................................1 E4
Awo Internet..............................2 E3

Ultinet Travel..............................6 E3

Sanjao Pu-Ya..............................8 F4
ai

korn

During Decembers Thung Si Meuang Festival,

on Ph

deliver more charm and value than the big

Prince Prajak
Udon Thani Provincial Museum..

Monument
pa

on
Tourism Authority of Thailand

Suvak
which features Isan music and dance perform- boys. The already bright and colourful rooms
k Sil

t
D

Th Ph

de
24

rn ya Th
mnuso un
ances and a fair to promote local products, Pu are cheered up even more with wicker fur-
raja

Th Ja Ad
Aek Udon International

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Th P

Th
(Grandpa) and Ya (Grandma) are moved to a niture.
wong

To Wat Pa Ban Tad (16km);

15

temporary home in the northwest corner of Charoensri Grand Royal Hotel (%0 4234 3555; www
INFORMATION

Khon Kaen (111km)

Fountain
nanu

City Field. There is dragon and lion dancing .charoensrigrand.com; Th Teekathanont; s/d 1300/1400B,
k
ri Su
atta

on several days during the festival. ste 2000-2500B; ais) At the hub of Udons
Clock Tower
Th W

Th S
i
sad
Ud
on-
dut main shopping and nightlife district, this is
Th e UDON THANI PROVINCIAL MUSEUM the towns glossiest top-ender. The rooms are
mpho
Th Athibadi

Th A
rbrbT#yIRg}v'v=fiTkou
Khaen Mak
Huay
spacious and immaculate, the facilities are
Si

g
atsadu
19
Pho

a h chaph
Th S
i Satt Th Rat
Filling a 1920s colonial-style building that top-notch and the service is swift.
C

Th

used to be a girls school, Udon Thani Provincial

Museum (%0 4224 5976; Th Pho Si; donations appreciated; Eating
2

(City Pillar Shrine)

Khrua Khan Dang (no roman-script sign; %0 4224 0596;

Tamruat
Th
h8am-4pm) has a catch-all collection spanning
7 Lak Meuang

27

ng suan
Provincial

Khae ak Th N
are
geology to handicrafts. 296/43 Th Sai Uthit; dishes 25-30B; hbreakfast, lunch &
Nong Khai (55km)

Th M
Office
Market (1km);

dinner) No sign, no menu, no atmosphere, but

Prison
To Rungsina

ntri
hamo phrao han
ukk Th P
Sleeping the noodle dishes are simply superb.
(City Field)

Th M
Thung Si

Municipal
Meuang

Market
29

13

BUDGET Taco Place (%08 1369 8936; 19/3 Th Jamnusorn; dishes

32
4

hesa
Kings Hotel (%0 4224 1444; 57 Th Pho Si; r 190-220B; 40-155B; hlunch & dinner) A south-of-the-border
23

Th T
cheun
20

a) A construction crew could probably experience? Of course not, this is Thailand;

Chom
B

convert this Vietnam Warera veteran into it cant be done. But Tu, who studied Mexi-
k
CENTRAL UDON THANI

ri Su
a

a prison in a couple of hours; nevertheless, can food while running a Thai restaurant in
Th Si
Th Suphakit Jany

9
Prajak
Nong

Th S

cheery staff and cheap prices make it a good Mexico, makes a pretty good stab at it. She
budget choice. also makes sub sandwiches, from her time
om

Queen Hotel (%0 4222 1451; 6-8 Th Udon-dutsadi; in New Jersey.

Niy
aw

r 120-240B; a) Located in a busy market area, Rabiang Phatchanee (%0 4224 1515; 53/1 Th Su-
Ph

Wat
Pho
To Udorn Sunshine

Th

this place is basic with a double-decker B, phakit Janya; dishes 45-250B; hlunch & dinner; a) On
Ban Pheu (42km); Loei (139km);
Nursery (400m)

though the owner is friendly. the lakes east shore, this classy Thai place
To New Bus Terminal (4km);

uma
jaide
e Top Mansion (%0 4234 5015; topmansion@yahoo.com; whips up a fabulous array of local dishes on the
Phitsanulok (365km)

Th T
A

28

35/3 Th Sampanthamit; r 310B; ai) Mix the quality, deck or in air-conditioned dining rooms.
location and well-appointed rooms and this Maeya (no roman-script sign; %0 4222 3889;
newly erected tower is the best bargain for 79/81 Th Ratchaphatsadu; dishes 38-310B; hlunch & din-
To Airport

your baht in town. The only thing missing is ner) One part Thai restaurant and three parts
(3km)
2

3
1

some style, but at these prices, who cares? English tearoom, this labyrinth has waiters
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
488 U D O N T HA N I P R O V I N C E U d o n T h a n i lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U D O N T HA N I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d U d o n T h a n i P r o v i n c e 489

dressed in black tie and a menu stretching
from burgers to ice creams to Oriental mains.
The curries are divine, though the translations
are a little cryptic (the rice with spit in sauce
is really rice with liver in sauce).
Also recommended:
Bella Italia (%0 4234 3134; Th Teekathanont, Cha-
roensri Complex; dishes 80-500B; hlunch & dinner; a)
As close to Italy as youll get in Isan, and as fancy as youll
get in Udon.
Kitaro (%0 4224 3094; Th Prajak Silpakorn; dishes 40-
880B; hlunch & dinner) A long-term Japanese favourite.
Vendors in the citys side-by-side night markets
(Th Prajak Silpakorn; h4-11pm) in front of the train
station serve a good groove of Thai food; and
you can watch football on the big screen. A
bevy of massage and paint-your-own pottery
stands joins the small food shops (which go
all day long) on the sunset-watching side of
Nang Prajak Park, a favourite jogging and
socialising spot, to form the Nang Prajak Night
Market (Th Thesa; h4-10pm).
Drinking & Entertainment
Udons growing expat population makes its
presence felt on the citys eating and drink-
ing scene. If you are anywhere near the Cha-
roensri Complex, you cant avoid passing a
farng-owned or -aimed bar. Most of those
supermarket, designer-clothing boutiques and
dining options.
Getting There & Away
AIR
THAI (www.thaiairways.com), Nok Air (www.nokair.com)
and Air Asia (www.airasia.com) together make 10
daily flights to Bangkok (one hour). One-way
fares average 2200B. Nok Air also flies three
times a week to Chiang Mai (1 hours) for
the same price as to Bangkok.
BUS
For most destinations, including Bangkoks
Northern bus terminal (air-con 443B, eight
hours, every 15 minutes), buses use Udons
old bus terminal (%0 4222 1489; Th Sai Uthit) or
the street in front of it. Other air-con buses
include those to Khorat (193B, 4 hours,
every 20 minutes), Sakon Nakhon (109B, 3
hours, every 15 minutes), Khon Kaen (104B,
2 hours, every 20 minutes), Pattaya (504B,
10 hours, 10 daily) and Vientiane (80B, two
hours, six daily; you must already have a Lao
visa). Many companies, including 999 VIP (%0
4222 1489) and Roongprasert Tour (%0 4234 3616),
operate 24-seat VIP buses (640B) to Bangkok
in the evening.
The new bus terminal (%0 4224 7788) is on the
Ring Rd on the western outskirts of the city
the Yellow and the White. The former runs up
and down Th Pho Si and the later tracks Hwy
2. Tk-tk short trips start at 40B (samlw
rates are a little less) and its 100B to the air-
port or the new bus terminal.
There are almost as many car-rental outlets
around Charoensri Complex as there are bars.
Rates start at 1000B, but this is for an older
car: for an extra couple hundred youll get a
better quality car and for 1500B you can get
a car with a driver.
A couple of bike rental outlets (Th Thesa) by
Nong Prajak Park have one-, two- and three-
seaters starting at 100B per day.
AROUND UDON THANI PROVINCE
Ban Chiang
[hkog(up'
This town, 50km east of Udon, was once the
hub of the ancient Ban Chiang civilisation
and archaeological digs here have uncovered
a treasure-trove of artefacts dating as far back
as 5600 years.
What is now one of the most important
archaeological sites in Southeast Asia was dis-
covered quite accidentally in 1966. Stephen
AROUND NONG KHAI & UDON THANI
To Loei Province (18km);
Pak Chom (42km)
Young, an anthropology student from Har-
vard, tripped while walking through the area
and found the rim of a buried pot right under
his nose. Looking around he noticed many
more and speculated that this might be a burial
site he was right. The first serious excava-
tions took place in 197475 and they uncov-
ered over a million pottery pieces as well as 126
human skeletons. Researchers later uncovered
the earliest evidence of both farming and the
manufacture of metal tools in the region.
The Ban Chiang culture, an agricultural
society that once thrived in northeastern
Thailand, is now famous for its early bronze
metallurgy and clay pottery, especially pots
and vases with distinctive burnt-ochre swirl
designs, most of which were associated with
burial sites. Seven layers of civilisation have
been excavated; the famous swirl-design pot-
tery comes from the third and fourth layers.
The area was declared a Unesco World Herit-
age site in 1992.
The excellent Ban Chiang National Museum
(%0 4220 8340; admission 30B; h8am-5pm) exhibits
pottery from all Ban Chiang periods, plus
myriad bronze objects recovered from various
0
0
20 km
12 miles
Nong
Pan Ta

in the block right across the street from the (take the Yellow Bus or swngthew 6) and has LAOS
To Ban Ahong (29km);
Beung Kan (52km)
Ban Sakai 2095
mall are aimed at people looking to meet new buses to western destinations, including Loei Than
Thip NONG KHAI
friends, if you catch our drift. (ordinary/air-con 60/110B, three hours, every Sangkhom Ban Samphanna
Irish Clock (%04224 7450; Th 19/5-6 Th Sampanthamit; 30 minutes) and Chiang Mai (air-con/32-seat Wat Pha Fao Rai
2267

Tak Sua
h8am-midnight) A wood-trimmed, Guinness- VIP 563/657B, 12 hours, eight daily). Than 211
River
Phon Phisai
Thong
infused pub on the backside of this block is For Nong Khai (ordinary 40B, one hour) NONG VIENTIANE kon
g
Me

g
KHAI

on
lower key and higher class. you can use either terminal, but the most Wat Hin
Si Chiangmai 212

Th
Mak Peng
Major Bowling and Major Cineplex (%0 2515 frequent departures are from Rungsina Mar- Na Pha
Nong Khai
5555) sit atop the Charoensri Complex on Th ket. Wat Ong Teu
Ban Sala Kaew Ku
Nong Ka
Sculpture Park
Teekathanont. Tha Bo Sithan
Tai Ban Pak
Wat Phra That Sang
TRAIN Bang Phuan Ban Nong Khom
Sai Mun

Mae Nam
Shopping Udon Thani is on the BangkokNong Khai Phu Phrabat Klang Yai Song Hong 2096

ang
2020 211
Historical Park
Nam Som UDON
Teenon Meechai (%0 4222 2838; 206-208 Th Pho line. Express trains leave Hualamphong

Nam Lu
THANI Ban Dung
2 Phen
Si; h2-5pm Mon-Sat) This souvenir shop has station in Bangkok at 8.20am, 6.30pm and Ban Tiu
Ban Pheu 2022

so much quirky style youll forget youre a 8.45pm arriving at Udons train station (%0 Hin Khao
Na Rai Na Kham
tourist. 4222 2061) about 10 hours later. Express depar- Dong Mu
Ban Na Kha
2022 Thon Na Phloen
2270

Udon Bho-Phin Tracha (no roman-script sign; %0 tures in the reverse direction leave at 6.47am, Nong Hua Khu Ban
Sum Sao Mee Chai
Suwankuha 2255
4224 5618; Th Phaw Niyom; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) There 6.40pm and 7.20pm. The fares to Bangkok are Khaosarn 2021 Thon 2096 Nam
UDON Taeng
is a very good selection of silk and cotton, 245/369/1177B for a 3rd-class seat/2nd-class 2098 THANI
Dong Rai
Thung
Fon
including some natural-dyed fabrics, at this seat/1st-class sleeper. NONG Na Dan Nong Sam
Tong Yai

spot northwest of Nong Prajak Lake. Look BUALAMPHU Khong Yung Kut Chap
Rong Kham Tana 2225
for the sign with the wooden roof. Getting Around 2097 2314
2263 Udon Thani
2312
Ban Chiang
Ban Pulu
Charoensri Complex (Th Teekathanont) One of Swngthew (8B) run regular routes across Kheuan Huay
22
Luang 210 Kham Kling Nong Han Nong SAKON
Isans largest shopping centres and the hub of town; TAT hands out free city maps that show To Ban Nong Aw (23km); Mek NAKHON
Wat Tham Kok Du (23km) Wat Pa Ban Tad
the city. It has the standard department store, the routes. There are also two city buses (8B), Na Klang
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
490 U D O N T HA N I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d U d o n T h a n i P r o v i n c e Book accommodation online
excavation pits, including spearheads, sickles,
axe heads, fish hooks, chisels, ladles, neck
rings and bangles. The displays (with English
labels) offer excellent insight into the regions
distant past and how its mysteries were un-
ravelled. An original burial ground excavation pit
(same hours as the museum, and admission
included in the museum ticket) displaying 52
skeletons, in whole or part, and lots of pots is
at nearby Wat Pho Si. The museum is cur-
rently closed for renovation, but will be open
soon after publication.
Rice cultivation remains the towns primary
livelihood, but the site has made souvenir sell-
ing a close second. On the way into town youll
pass many villages specialising in handicrafts,
such as pottery, silk weaving, rice baskets and
clothes sewn with a distinctive thick, hand-
woven cotton fabric; all of these and more can
be bought from shops facing the museum. Lo-
cals also attempt to sell Ban Chiang artefacts,
real and fake, but neither is allowed out of the
country, so dont buy them.
The University of Pennsylvania Museum
of Archaeology & Anthropology (www.museum
.upenn.edu) has a good page on the archaeologi-
cal discoveries at Ban Chiang on its website.
From the home page type Ban Chiang Project
into the search engine.
SLEEPING & EATING
Lakeside Sunrise Guest House (%0 4220 8167; www
.banchianglakeside.com; r 200B) On the west side
of the lake, within easy striking distance of
the museum, this homey, nicely landscaped
place is the villages best bet for a budget sleep.
Clean, shared facilities are downstairs, while
the wooden upper floor boasts a spacious ver-
anda. The joyful owner, an encyclopaedia of
Ban Chiang knowledge, speaks English and
rents bikes.
There are several simple restaurants across
from the national museum entrance.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
A few swngthew run between Ban Chiang
and Udon (35B, one hour) each morning be-
fore 10am. In Udon, catch them on Th Pho
Si southwest of the old bus terminal. In Ban
Chiang, they stop in front of the museum.
Alternatively, take a bus bound for Sakon
Nakhon or Nakhon Phanom and get off at
the Ban Pulu (45B, one hour) turn-off, a 15-
minute samlw ride (per person 50B) from
Ban Chiang.
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com
Phu Phrabat Historical Park
v=mpkoxit;y^bLkl^iN#)rit[km
Steeped in local legend and peppered with
bizarre rock formations daubed with ancient
cave paintings, Phu Phrabat Historical Park (%0
4225 1350; admission 30B; h8.30am-4.30pm) is one of
the regions highlights, offering great views
from the crags of the Phu Phrabat escarpment
and plenty of mythical intrigue. For Isan resi-
dents, this is an important place of pilgrimage.
For visitors, the side-by-side progression from
rock art to Buddhist stupa represents a local-
ised evolution of thought and aesthetics.
The formations are a collection of balanced
rocks, spires, whale-sized boulders and caves
(more like grottoes or rocky overhangs) with
several shrines and wats built in and around
them. Prehistoric paintings in several grot-
toes feature wild animals, humans and cryp-
tic symbols. There are also some small but
sophisticated rock carvings of Buddha im-
ages dating back to when the Mon and, later,
Khmer ruled this area. A climb beyond the
rock formations to Pha Sa Dej at the edge of
the escarpment ends with dramatic views of
the valley below and the mountains of Laos
beyond. A well-marked web of trails trail me-
anders past these sites and you can see all of
them in about an hour.
Near the entrance to the area is the larg-
est temple in the historical park Wat Phra That
Phra Phutthabaht Bua Bok, with its namesake
Lao-style chedi covering a Buddha footprint.
It also has some odd temple buildings in the
general mood of those in the park.
Most of the bizarre rock formations to be
found here are featured in an enchanting local
legend about a king (Phaya Kong Phan), his
stunningly beautiful daughter (Nang Usua), a
hermit (the Rishi Chantra) and a love-struck
prince from another kingdom (Tao Baros).
The most striking rock formation, Hoh Nang-
Usa, an overturned boot-shaped outcrop with
a shrine built into it, is said to be the tower
where the beautiful princess was forced to live
by her overprotective father. Many of these
rock formations are signposted with names
in Thai and English alluding to the legend,
but, unless youre familiar with it, theyll make
little sense. Theres a short version in the mu-
seum, but if youre staying at the Mut Mee
Garden Guest House in Nong Khai (p496),
you can read the whole tale.
The park has three simple dormitories (per
person 150B) if you want to spend some time
lonelyplanet.com
here, but theyre geared more towards groups
of Thai students. Ask at the office if you want
to pitch a tent.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The park is 70km northwest of Udon Thani
and Nong Khai, near the small town of Ban
Pheu, and can be visited as a long day trip
from either city. From Udons Rungsina Mar-
ket its a 40B, 1-hour bus ride; its 35B and
two hours from Nong Khai. From Ban Pheu
take a swngthew (8B) to Ban Tiu, the village
at the base of the hill, and then a motorcycle
taxi or tk-tk the final 4km to the park itself.
If youre using public transport, you should
plan on leaving the park by 3.30pm.
Weaving Villages
Ban Na Kha, 16km north of Udon right on Hwy
2, is renowned for kht-pattern fabrics. Kht is a
geometric, diamond-grid minimal weft brocade
traditionally used in pillows and other decora-
tive items, but now commonly used in clothing.
Dozens of shops line the highway and the main
road through town: Wongduan (%0 4220 6089; Hwy
2) and Chanruan Nakha (%0 4220 6276; cnr Hwy 2 & Mu
1) are used to dealing with foreigners.
Before leaving, take a peek at Wat Na Ka
Taewee (Hwy 2; hdaylight hours), which was
founded before the village after a wandering
monk found a hole from which bellowed the
sound and smoke of a naga. He plugged the
hole with a rock and built the small bt over
it. The hall by the entrance displays pottery,
gold Buddhas and human skeletons unearthed
during various construction projects at the
temple. Udons Yellow bus runs to the village;
catch it anywhere on Hwy 2.
Ban Thon, just 2km east of Ban Na Kha, is a
much more peaceful weaving village, though
youll only find looms spinning in the winter
since the full-time weavers moved to the high-
way where most of the customers are found.
The best (and most expensive) kht comes
from Ban Nong Aw, about 40km southwest of
Udon via Rte 210 in Nong Bualamphu Prov-
ince, but there is less available for sale to the
public. Swngthew (27B, one hour) depart
from next to Udons prison.
Wat Pa Ban Tad
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Luang Ta Maha Bua, now in his 90s and a
former disciple of Ajahn Man, is one of
Thailands most revered monks. Though he
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i 491
earned his reverence as a meditation master,
he gained universal celebrity after the 1997
economic crisis by collecting over 10,000kg of
gold (people turned in jewellery to be melted
down) and US$10 million in baht to help pay
the countrys international debts. He has been
heavily involved in other charity work and in
2005 made unprecedented criticisms of Thak-
sin, the now-deposed prime minister.
Over 250 monks and me chii (Thai Bud-
dhist nuns) all taking ascetic vows in addition
to the regular 227 precepts live and meditate
at Wat Pa Ban Tad (hdaylight hours), a vast, humble
forest wat 16km south of Udon (take Hwy 2
south and, after a U-turn, follow the signs),
including about a dozen Westerners. Hundreds
come every morning to hear his simple, direct
talks on Buddhism, and thousands more listen
via a nationally broadcast radio programme
(103.25FM in Udon) or at www.luangta.com.
NONG KHAI PROVINCE
Nong Khai Province, occupying a narrow,
320km-long sweep along the banks of the
Mekong, is a beautiful, intriguing region. The
capital, Nong Khai, is where the Friendship
Bridge crosses into Laos only the second
bridge to be erected anywhere along the
Mekongs entire length; the first was in the
Peoples Republic of China. The town is one
of northeastern Thailands most popular tour-
ist destinations and features the surreal Sala
Kaew Ku sculpture park, a must-see on any
jaunt through the region.
NONG KHAI
sov'%kp
pop 61,500
Spread out along the leafy banks of the Me-
kong River, Lady Luck certainly smiles on
the location. As a major staging post on the
tourist trail north, Nong Khai benefits from
a steady stream of travellers, and a clutch of
excellent places to stay and eat have sprung
up to accommodate them, making this the
only Isan town with a full-fledged backpacker
scene; albeit a modest one. But Nong Khais
popularity is about more than just its proxim-
ity to Laos and bounty of banana pancakes.
Seduced by its dreamy river views, sluggish
pace of life and surrounding attractions, many
who mean to stay a day end up bedding down
for many more.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
492 N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i 493

0 600 m
CENTRAL NONG KHAI 0 0.4 miles

iver 7
A B C D E F G Mekong R H
LAOS
INFORMATION Mut Mee Garden Guest Night Vendors........................27 B2
Go Thasadej........................(see 19) House............................13 A1 Pizza Mister Bentz................(see 31)
Hornbill Bookshop....................1 A1 Nong Khai Grand...............14 C2 Riverside Restaurants...........(see 30)
River

Phrao 1
Soi Paa
Mekong Krung Thai...............................2 B2 Pantawee Hotel..................15 B2 Rom Luang............................28 C2

Soi Paa Phrao 3

1 1
Main Post Office......................3 B2 Pong Vichitr Hotel..............16 B2

Soi Paa
Luang 1
To Thai-Laos 12 30
21
ng Mekong Internet Services....(see 12) Rimkhong Guest House......17 A1 DRINKING
Riverside Hotel kho

Soi Praisani

Soi Si Saket
Wat Nong Khai Hospital..................4 A2 Ruan Thai Guest House......18 B1 Surreal....................................29 A1

Thepbunterng
(300m); Mat Hai 29 Th Rim
Hat Jommani 19 Wat Si Muang Oxy.Net...................................5 C2
26 Sok chai

Soi
(3km) 20 Police.......................................6 A2 EATING Th Mee SHOPPING
13
1 11 18 8
aew Woraw ut 17 Bird's Eye View Terrace....(see 14) Tha Sadet Market...................30 B1
Th K Th Meechai
Th H

Soi Si Khun Meuang

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Caf Thasadej.....................19 B1 Village Weaver Handicrafts....31 A2
Soi Cheunjit

24

Soi Srisumung 1
4

Soi Srisu ung 2

Th Banthoengjit

Th Prab-Haw
Soi Wat Nak

Soi Srimuang
To Nong Th Meechai 2 3 5 Phra That Nong Khai................7 H1 Coco-Na Coffee.................20 B1 Village Weaver Workshop......32 B2

Soi Lumduan
Th Sukpracha
22 Sala Jao Phu
ai So

Khai Museum 23

Th Phochai
16 Ya Chinese Wat Lam Duan........................8 D1 Daeng Namnuang..............21 B1

Th Kawnkan Uthit
Th Prasai
m
(50m) 6 15 Temple
k

Prap Haw 25 Wat Si Wat Pho Chai.......................... 9 D2 Darika................................22 B2 TRANSPORT

Monument Saket Wat Tung Sawang.................10 C2 Hospital Food Court...........23 A2 999 VIP...............................(see 33)
31 27
Fountain Th Prajak
Jos Ramon's..................... 24 A2 Bus Terminal..........................33 D2
Th Prajak Th Prajak
Pho Chai SLEEPING Khrua Sukapap Kwan Im....25 B2 Family Corp 2........................34 A2

Promdumi
Soi Jittapunya
Soi Vietnam

Soi Silpakhom
2 2
Soi Nitapat

34 Market Khiang Khong Guest House....11 B1 Mut Mee.........................(see 13) Roongprasert Tour...............(see 33)

Th Praeserm
Soi Warnutit
28

Soi
To Nong Khai Border Checkpoint (3km); 10
33 Maekhong Guest House.........12 B1 Nagarina............................26 A1
Train Station (3km); Immigration Office 32
(3.5km); Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge (3.5km)
9
212
To Big Jiang Mall (200m); Siam Commercial To Wat Noen To Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park (1.2km);
2 Bank (200m); TAT (1km); Vacation Training Centre 212 Phra Nao Phon Phisai (45km);
(10km); Highway 211 (12km); Village Udon Thani (55km) 14 (100m) Nakhon Phanom (303km)

Developers have stuck their concrete boots 1874, 1885 and 1886. When western Laos was INTERNET ACCESS 5744; admission 10B; h7.30am-5.30pm) is a surreal,
into some of the citys prettier historic dis- partitioned off from Thailand by the French Mekong Internet Services (519 Th Rimkhong; per hr sculptural journey into the mind of a mystic
tricts, but compared to Udon Thani and Khon in 1893, the monthon capital was moved to 30B; h10am-10pm) At the Maekhong Guest House. shaman. Built over a period of 20 years by
Kaen further south, Nong Khai has managed Udon, leaving Nong Khai to fade into a pro- Oxy.Net (569/2 Th Meechai; per hr 25B; h10am-midnight) Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, who died in
to keep at least one of its feet firmly rooted vincial backwater. 1996, the park features a weird and wonder-
in the past. Cut through with a sprinkling of The opening of the US$30 million, 1174m- MONEY ful array of gigantic sculptures ablaze with
French colonial villas and a starburst of wats, long Saphan Mittaphap Thai-Lao (Thai-Lao There are banks with ATM and exchange fa- Hindu-Buddhist imagery.
time, like the Mekong, appears to flow a little Friendship Bridge) on 8 April 1994 marked cilities across town. As his own story goes, Luang Pu, a Lao
more slowly here. the beginning of a new era of development Krung Thai (Th Meechai; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) A national, tumbled into a hole as a child, where
for Nong Khai as a regional trade and trans- Travelex money-transfer agent. he met an ascetic named Kaewkoo. Kaewkoo
History port centre and the skyline has been creeping Siam Commercial Bank (Hwy 2, Big Jiang Mall; introduced him to the manifold mysteries
Crammed between nations, Nong Khai is slowly upwards ever since. h10.30am-8pm) An agent for Moneygram. of the underworld and set him on course to
both a historic and physical bridgehead be- become a Brahmanic yogi-priest-shaman.
tween Thailand and Laos. Nong Khai once fell Orientation & Information POST Shaking up his own unique blend of Hindu
within the boundaries of the Vientiane (Wiang Nong Khai follows the curve of the Mekong Main post office (Th Meechai; h8.30am-4.30pm and Buddhist philosophy, mythology and
Chan) kingdom, which itself vacillated between River, and most of the hotels and restaurants are Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) An agent for iconography, Luang Pu developed a large
independence and tribute to either Lan Xang along, or just off, the three parallel streets of Th Western Union. following in northeastern Thailand, where
(13531694) or to Siam (late 18th century until Rimkhong, Th Meechai and Th Prajak on the he had moved following the 1975 communist
1893). In 1827 Rama III gave a Thai lord Thao western side of the centre of town. The Friend- TOURIST INFORMATION takeover in Laos, and had been working on a
Suwothamma the rights to establish Meuang ship Bridge is about 3km west of the centre. TAT (%0 4242 1326; www.tourismthailand.org; Hwy similar project.
Nong Khai at the present city site, which he 2; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) In the OTOP Center, 1km The park is a real smorgasbord of bizarre
chose because the surrounding swamps (Nong BOOKSHOPS south of town. cement statues of Shiva, Vishnu, Buddha, and
in Thai) would aid in the citys defence. In 1891, Hornbill Bookshop (%0 4246 0272; Th Kaew every other Hindu and Buddhist deity im-
under Rama V, Nong Khai became the capital of Worawut; h10am-7pm) Buys, sells and trades English- TRAVEL AGENCIES aginable, as well as numerous secular figures,
monthon Lao Phuan, an early Isan satellite state language books. Family Corp 2 (%0 4241 1526; Th Prajak; h9am- all supposedly cast by unskilled artists under
that included what are now Udon, Loei, Khon 7pm Mon-Sat) Luang Pus direction. Some of the sculptures
Kaen, Sakon Nakhon, Nakhon Phanom and EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES Go Thasadej (%0 4242 3921; www.gothasadej.com; are quite amusing: if youre travelling with kids
Nong Khai Provinces, as well as Vientiane. Nong Khai Hospital (%1669; Th Meechai) 387/3 Soi Thepbunterng; h10am-10pm) Books air tickets theyll enjoy the serene and stately elephant
The area came under several attacks by jiin Tourist police (%1155; Hwy 2) In the OTOP Center, and visa-run tours (from Bangkok). At the Caf Thasadej. wading though a pack of anthropomorphic
haw (Yunnanese) marauders in the late 19th 1km south of town. dogs. The tallest sculpture, a Buddha seated
century. The 1886-vintage Prap Haw Monu- Sights & Activities on a coiled naga with a spectacular multi-
ment (prap haw means defeat of the Haw) IMMIGRATION OFFICES SALA KAEW KU SCULPTURE PARK headed hood, is 25m high. Also of interest
in front of the former Provincial Office (now Immigration Office (%0 4242 0242; h8.30am- Lk]kcdh;d)j is the Wheel of Life, entered through a giant
used as a community college) commemo- 4.30pm Mon-Fri) On the highway bypass that leads to the Nong Khais most enigmatic attraction, Sala mouth, which boils Luang Pus philosophies
rates Thai-Lao victories over Haw invasions in Friendship Bridge; offers Thai visa extensions. Kaew Ku Sculpture Park (Pavilion of Kaew Ku; %08 1369 down to a single, slightly baffling, image an
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
494 N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i
explanation is available on the Mut Mee Garden
Guest House website (www.mutmee.com).
The main shrine building, almost as bizarre
as the sculpture park, is full of framed pictures
of Hindu and Buddhist deities, temple donors
and Luang Pu at various ages, plus smaller
bronze and wooden figures of every descrip-
tion and provenance guaranteed to throw an
art historian into a state of disorientation.
Luang Pus corpse lies under a glass dome
ringed by flashing lights in the upper room.
To get to Sala Kaew Ku, board a bus head-
ing to Phon Phisai or any other eastern desti-
nation and ask to get off at Wat Khaek (10B),
as the park is also known; its about a five-
minute walk from the highway. Chartered
tk-tk cost 120B return with a one-hour
wait, or you can reach it by bike in about
30 minutes: Mut Mee Garden Guest House
distributes handy maps if you want to take
the scenic route.
WAT PHO CHAI
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Luang Pu Phra Sai, a large Lan Xangera Bud-
dha, awash with gold, bronze and precious
stones, sits at the hub of Wat Pho Chai (Th Phochai;
h7am-7pm). The head of the image is pure
gold, the body is bronze and the tsnt is set
with rubies. The altar on which the image sits
features gilded wooden carvings and mosaics,
while the ceiling bears wooden rosettes in the
late Ayuthaya style.
This was one of three similar statues and
the murals in the bt depict their travels from
the interior of Laos to the banks of the Me-
kong where they were put on rafts. A storm
sent one to the bottom of the river where it
remains today: it was never recovered because,
according to one monk at the temple, the naga
like having it. The third statue, Phra Soem, is
at Wat Patum Wanaram in Bangkok.
WAT NOEN PHRA NAO
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A forest wat on the south side of town, Wat
Noen Phra Nao (hdaylight hours) boasts a Vipassana
(insight meditation) centre on pleasant, tree-
shaded grounds. It serves as a spiritual retreat
for those (Westerners included, if they are seri-
ous about meditation) facing personal crises.
Some extremely ornate temple architecture,
including perhaps the most rococo bell tower
weve ever seen, stands in contrast with the
usual ascetic tone of forest monasteries. Theres
lonelyplanet.com
a Chinese cemetery and some of the statuary
wouldnt be out of place at Sala Kaew Ku.
WAT LAM DUAN
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You can easily pick Wat Lam Duan (Th Rimkhong;
hdaylight hours) out of the skyline since an im-
mense Buddha image sits on top of the bt.
You are welcome to climb up (shoes off) and
gaze over the Mekong with it.
WAT TUNG SAWANG
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The bt at Wat Tung Sawang (Soi Silpakhom; hday-
light hours) is one of the citys smallest, but the
exceptional artistic flair put into the decora-
tion makes it one of the most attractive. Nine
Buddhist and Hindu sculptures sit on fanciful
pedestals alongside the chapel.
PHRA THAT NONG KHAI
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Also known as Phra That Klang Nam (Holy Reli-
quary in the Middle of the River; admission free), this Lao
chedi is submerged in the Mekong River and
can only be seen in the dry season when the
Mekong lowers about 13m. The chedi slipped
into the river in 1847 and continues to slide
its near the middle now. Once the top of
the chedi has cleared the water during the
dry season, coloured flags are fastened to the
top. Phra That La Nong, a replica erected on the
original site, glows brightly at night.
NONG KHAI MUSEUM
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The little Nong Khai Museum (%0 4241 3658; Th
Meechai; admission free; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) once had
little to hold your interest, but a renovation
ongoing during our last visit could change
that, or maybe not.
HAT JOMMANI
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It only makes a seasonal appearance during
the dry season, but the sandy beach of Hat Jom-
mani under the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is
a favourite with picnickers, sunsoakers and
those who just like to feel the Mekong running
between their toes; perhaps from a rented
inner tube. During the dry season a rustic
thatched shelter with straw mats becomes a
restaurant serving delicious ki yang, plaa
png (grilled fish), sm-tam (papaya salad)
and cold beer.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
lonelyplanet.com N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i 495
MUAY THAI town, including Sarnelli House (http://sarnelli.siam
Several farng have trained in muay thai (Thai .de) for HIV-positive children, run by Father
boxing) with Seksorn Kupradit (%0 4246 0184), who Mike Shea, to play with the children on week-
knows enough English to get his ideas across. end mornings. Inquire at Mut Mee Garden
Its not a typical hard-nosed camp; instead Guest House if youre interested. Mut Mee
students get two hours a day of one-to-one also has information on English-teaching
lessons. A three-month course costs 12,000B opportunities.
and youll get into the ring at the end.
Festivals & Events
VOLUNTEERING During the annual Songkran Festival (in April),
While volunteer opportunities usually re- the priceless image of Luang Pu Phra Sai, a Lan
quire a fairly long commitment, you can do Xangera Buddha, is paraded around town.
a whole lot of good in just a couple of hours Like many other cities in the northeast,
by stopping at one of the orphanages near Nong Khai has a Rocket Festival (Bun Bng Fai),
GREAT BALLS OF FIRE
Mass hysteria? Methane gas? Drunken Lao soldiers? Or perhaps the fiery breath of the sacred
naga, a serpent-like being that populates folkloric waterways throughout Theravada Buddhist
Southeast Asia. For the Lao and Thai who live along a certain stretch of the Mekong River in
Thailands Nong Khai Province, its not a matter of whether or not to believe. Since 1983 (or for
ages, depending on who you ask), the sighting of the bng fai phyaa nak (loosely translated
naga fireballs) has been an annual event. Sometime in the early evening, at the end of the
Buddhist Rains Retreat (October), which coincides with the 15th waxing moon of the 11th lunar
month, small reddish balls of fire shoot silently from the Mekong River just after dusk and float
fly a hundred or so metres into the air before vanishing without a trace. Most claim the naga
fireballs are soundless, but others say a hissing can be heard if one is close enough to where
they emerge from the surface of the river. People on both sides of the Mekong see the event as
a sign that the resident naga is celebrating the end of the holiday.
Naga fireballs have only recently come to the attention of the rest of Thailand. TV news has
been reporting the annual sightings for years, but it wasnt until the 2002 release of a film
based on the phenomena that Thais really began to take notice. Entitled Sp Ha Khm Deuan
Sp-t, or Fifteenth Waxing Moon of the Eleventh Lunar Month (the film was released with English
subtitles under the curious title Mekhong Full Moon Party), the debut of the film not long before
the scheduled event had an expected effect. Thousands of Thais from Bangkok and the rest of
the country converged on the banks of the Mekong in Nong Khai Province and waited for the
show to begin. Sadly, it rained that year. But that didnt dampen enthusiasm and naga fireballs
were witnessed right on schedule.
So what, you might ask, is the real cause behind naga fireballs? Thais have various theories.
One, which was aired on a Thai TV expos-style programme, claimed that Lao soldiers taking part
in festivities on the other side of the Mekong were firing their rifles into the air. Interestingly, the
reaction to the TV programme was anger and a storm of protest from both sides of the river.
Others suggest that a mixture of methane gas and phosphane, trapped below the mud on the
river bottom, reaches a certain temperature at that time of year and is released. Whatever the
real cause, few Thais will even entertain the suggestion of a hoax.
Naga fireballs have become big business in Nong Khai Province. Every year some 40,000 people
invade little Phon Phisai, the locus of fireball watching, and thousands more converge on about
two dozen other riverside spots between Sangkhom and Nakhom Phanom in hopes of sightings.
Traffic is so bad that public transport isnt a viable option, but Mut Mee Garden Guest House in
Nong Khai runs trucks (200B) to the festivities.
The fireball experience is much, much more than just watching a few small lights rise from
the river; its mostly about watching Thais watching a few small lights rise from the river. And
even if the naga doesnt send his annual greeting on the day you come (it is sometimes delayed
by a day), it will be an interesting experience.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
496 N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i
which begins on Visakha Puja day (Buddhas
birth and enlightenment day) in late May/
early June.
At the end of Buddhist Lent (Okk Paan
Saa) in late October/early November, there
is a large Rowing Festival featuring long-boat
races on the Mekong. It corresponds with the
October full moon, which is when naga fireballs
can be seen (see the boxed text, p495).
The Anou Savari Festival on March 5 marks
the end of the Hau rebellions and boasts the
citys biggest street fair.
Sleeping
BUDGET
Catering to the steady flow of backpack-
ers heading across the border, Nong Khais
budget offerings are some of the best in the
region and, in fact, these guesthouses also
have the best midrange rooms available.
Rimkhong Guest House (%0 4246 0625; 815/1-3
Th Rimkhong; s/d 120/180B) Sparse rooms, some
in a shaky wooden house, with shared bath-
rooms and plenty of hush are standard at this
unassuming outfit. A friendly old dog pads
around the leafy courtyard and sets the slug-
gish pace, while the owners provide the warm
welcome.
Ruan Thai Guest House (%0 4241 2519; 1126/2 Th
Rimkhong; r 120-400B; a) Once little more than
a small private home, this pleasant spot has
grown with the boomtime, boasting a good
variety of good-quality rooms with some sim-
ple shared bathroom basics out the back to a
family room in a little wooden cottage. Factor
in the tangle of flower-filled garden greenery
and its a winner.
Pong Vichitr Hotel (%0 4241 1583; 1244/1-2 Th
Banthoengjit; r 200-400B; a) With a lobby stacked
floor to ceiling with boxes of ramen noodles,
you sure dont expect much out of this old-
school concrete block, but open the door to
your room and youll findOK, theyre just
as drab as you expected. But the price is right:
air-con starts at 270B and all rooms have pri-
vate bathroom with hot water.
Khiang Khong Guest House (%0 4242 2870; 541
Th Rimkhong; r 300-400B; a) Rooms in this newly
built concrete block sparkle and shine, and
you can lament the lack (not the loss; it was
an empty lot before construction) of history
with river views from the 3rd-floor terrace or
your private balcony.
Sawasdee Guest House (%0 4241 2502; 402 Th
Meechai; r 140-420B; a) If you could judge a
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
hotel by its cover, this charismatic place in
an old, Franco-Chinese shophouse would
come up trumps. The tidy rooms (the fan
options share bathrooms) lack the exteriors
old-school veneer, but at least youll sleep well
in the knowledge that youre bedded down in
a little piece of living history.
Maekhong Guest House (%0 4246 0689; www.me
kongguesthouse.com; 519 Th Rimkhong; dm 150B, r 300-500B;
ai) This revamped riverside outfit serves
up little bonuses like decorative headboards
and plush towels, rarely found at these prices.
Its position, right on the river, also scoops a
few credits.
Mut Mee Garden Guest House (% 0 4246
0717; www.mutmee.com; 1111/4 Th Kaew Worawut; dm 90B,
r 130-600B; a) Occupying a sleepy stretch of
the Mekong riverbank, Nong Khais budget
old-timer has a garden so relaxing you may
not want to leave. A huge variety of rooms
(some on a raft on the river are planned) are
clustered around a thatched-roof restaurant
where the owner, Julian, holds court with his
grip of local legend and his passion for all
things Isan. A little floating bar, named Gaia,
sits on the river. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the
alleyway leading to Mut Mee has developed
into a self-contained travellers village with
yoga instruction, internet cafs and a book-
shop at hand.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Thai-Laos Riverside Hotel (%0 4246 0263; 51 Th Kaew
Worawut; r 500-800B; a) Built a year before the
Friendship Bridge opened, this is a good ex-
ample of unmet expectations. If you dont
mind peeling paint and torn carpets, youll
get good views. And, if youre into tacky hotel
clubs, youll find three of them here.
Pantawee Hotel (%0 4241 1568; www.nongkhaiho
tel.com; 1049 Th Hai Sok; r 800-1800B; ais) The
Pantawee brand is something of a cartel along
Th Hai Sok, with a string of accommodation
options plus a spa, travel agency and 24-hour
restaurant. The main hotel is somewhat ho-
mogenous but spotless, with a big choice of
air-con rooms, almost all with DVD players
and internet-connected PCs.
Nong Khai Grand (%0 4242 0033; www.nongkhai
grandhotel.com; Hwy 212; r 1290B, ste 3700B; ais)
This slick, modern place has plenty of sparkle.
A big hit with passing suits, executive stand-
ards are maintained throughout and swanky
suites (usually available at 40% discount) are
on offer for those after the Midas touch.
lonelyplanet.com
Eating
Khrua Sukapap Kwan Im (%0 4246 0184; Soi Wat
Nak; dishes 20-30B; hbreakfast & lunch) The owners
of this simple little vegetarian place make a
mumsy fuss over farng diners, and serve
Thai and Chinese standards (from a buffet
counter and an English-language menu) that
are good enough for carnivores. The juices
are excellent, too.
Darika (no roman-script sign; %0 4242 0079; 668-669
Th Meechai; dishes 25-60B; hbreakfast & lunch) If youre
an early riser this spartan, English-speaking
outfit will be waiting for you from 5am with
cheap egg-and-toast breakfasts, banana pan-
cakes, real Thai coffee, Lao-style baguette
sandwiches and all the usual Thai choices.
Mut Mee Garden Guest House (%0 4246 0717;
1111/4 Th Kaew Worawut; dishes 35-135B; hbreakfast, lunch
& dinner) Mut Mees food is very popular, espe-
cially the breakfasts, but keep in mind that
the Thai dishes are toned down to European
tastes. But whether you like it hot or not, you
simply cannot beat this riverside location, and
there are sometimes cultural performances.
Nagarina (%0 4246 0717; dishes 35-75B; hlunch
& dinner) There is no paucity of peppers in the
kitchen of Mut Mees riverboat, which docks
below the guesthouse. It offers sunset and
night cruises for 100B (check at the guest-
house for times), but serves its superb Thai
cuisine throughout the day.
Rom Luang (no roman-script sign; %08 7853 7136;
45/10 Th Prajak; dishes 40-120B; hdinner) Though
the menu is mainly Thai, most of the Yellow
Umbrellas best known dishes, like sausages
and pork neck, are Isan specialities. The hand-
made tables and chairs add flair, and the grills
stay smoking until 4am.
Jos Ramons (1128/11 Th Takai; dishes 80-140B;
hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A trace of Latin Amer-
icana prevails at this hole-in-the-wall diner.
And the south-of-the-border menu, cooked
up by the gregarious and hilarious Jos him-
self, isnt just a Nong Khai novelty the foods
not half bad.
Daeng Namnuang (%0 4241 1961; 526 Th Rimkhong;
dishes 30-180B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This Viet-
namese place has grown into an Isan institu-
tion and hordes of out-of-towners head home
with car boots and carry-on bags (its got an
outlet at the Udon Thani airport) stuffed with
Vietnamese namnuang (pork spring rolls).
Caf Thasadej (%0 4242 3921; 387/3 Soi Thepbun-
terng; dishes 50-310B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) So-
phistication is in short supply in Nong Khai,
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E N o n g K h a i 497
but it oozes out of this little restaurant. Both
the menu and liquor list, the latter among
the best in town, go global. Gyros, weiner-
schnitzel, fish and chips, lasagne, tuna salad
and smoked salmon are some of the most
popular options.
Also recommended:
Pizza Mister Bentz (%08 7806 8930; 1121 Th Hai
Sok; pizza 99B; hdinner) A pretty good pizza at a very
good price.
Birds Eye View Terrace (%0 4242 0033; Hwy 212;
dishes 55-200B; hdinner) You can sample Isan food and
see nearly the whole city from the Nong Khai Grand hotels
rooftop restaurant.
For quick, colourful eats swing by the Hospital
Food Court (no roman-script sign; Th Meechai; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner) where about a dozen cooks whip
up the standards, or visit the night vendors (Th
Prajak) who set up their stalls each evening
between Soi Cheunjit and Th Hai Sok. Dur-
ing the day, grilled fish reigns supreme at the
lunch-only riverside restaurants (Th Rimkhong)
tucked behind Tha Sadet Market.
Drinking
Surreal (% 08 1391 3828; 476/4 Th Rimkhong;
hnoon-1am Nov-April, 7pm-1am May-Oct) This little
place rises above, both figuratively and liter-
ally, the other bars on this end of Th Rim-
khong. It looks out over the river, has a free
pool table and book exchange, and the owner
Mark nearly never stops smiling.
Coco-Na Coffee (%0 4241 1362; Th Meechai; h5pm-
midnight; a) This coffeehouse-nightclub hybrid
attracts a youthful crowd. Gabber away with
the other caffeinated punters inside, or take
in a live band (November to May) with a glass
of whiskey in the terrace out back.
Shopping
Tha Sadet Market (Th Rimkhong) This huge market
runs for most of the day and offers the usual
mix of dried food, electronic items, souvenirs
and assorted bric-a-brac; most of it imported
from Laos and China.
Village Weaver Handicrafts (%0 4242 2651; www
.villageweaver.net; 1020 Th Prajak; h8am-7pm) Selling
high-quality, moderately priced hand-woven
fabrics and ready-made clothing, this shop
was established by the Good Shepherd Sisters
as part of a project to encourage local girls to
stay in the villages and earn money by weav-
ing. The mt-mi cotton is particularly good
here. Its workshop (%0 4241 1236; 1151 Soi Jittapanya;
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
498 N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d N o n g K h a i P r o v i n c e
h9am-4pm Mon-Sat), where some of the products
are produced, is located off Th Prajak, and
visitors are welcome. The Thai name for the
project is Hatthakam Sing Thaw.
Village Vocational Training Centre (%0 4241
1860; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Though separate from
Village Weaver, this school 7km south of
town (take Hwy 2 and follow the sign east)
has similar goals. Its a great place to see the
mt-mi process from start to finish, and it
also has a pottery workshop and mushroom
farm.
Getting There & Away
AIR
The nearest airport is 55km south in Udon
Thani. Regular flights operate from there to
Bangkok. See p488 for more details. Several
travel agencies run shuttles to the airport
(150B, one hour); Family Corp 2 (%0 4241 1526;
Th Prajak; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat), one of these agen-
cies, runs five a day.
BUS
Nong Khais main bus terminal (%0 4241 1612)
is located just off Th Prajak, over 1km from
the riverside guesthouses.
Buses to Udon Thani (ordinary 40B, one
hour) leave Nong Khai about every half-hour
throughout the day. There are also regular
air-con buses to Khon Kaen (148B, 3 hours),
Bangkok (482B, 11 hours) and Rayong (600B,
12 hours). For Chiang Mai, you have to change
at Udons New Bus Terminal. Roongprasert Tour
(%0 4241 1447) and 999 VIP (%0 4241 2679), with
offices on opposite sides of the bus terminal,
also offer daily 24-seat VIP services (700B,
10 hours) services to Bangkok at 7.45pm and
8pm respectively.
The ordinary bus 507 travels to Loei (105B,
six hours), via Sangkhom (47B, 2 hours)
throughout the morning; the last bus departs
at 3pm.
Laos
Take a tk-tk to the border crossing where
you get stamped out of Thailand. From there
regular minibuses ferry passengers across the
bridge (15B) between 6am and 9.30pm to the
Lao immigration checkpoint. From there its
22km to Vientiane there will be plenty of
buses, tk-tk and taxis waiting for you. If
you already have a visa for Laos, there are also
six direct buses a day to Vientiane from Nong
Khais bus terminal (55B, one hour).
lonelyplanet.com
VISAS FOR LAOS
Despite what travel agents in Bangkok
might tell you, the Lao government issues
30-day tourist visas on arrival at Nong Khais
Friendship Bridge and the other border
crossings open to those who are not Thai or
Lao citizens. Most farng pay either US$30
or US$35, though Canadians get socked
with a US$42 fee. You are also allowed to
pay in baht, but the price works out much
higher. Beside the fee, youll need a pass-
port photo and the name of a hotel you
will be staying at in Laos. Lonely Planets
Laos guidebook contains extensive travel
information.
TRAIN
From Bangkok, express trains leave Hualam-
phong station daily at 6.30pm and 8.45pm,
arriving in Nong Khai at 5.05am and 9.10am
respectively. Going the other way, the express
train services depart from Nong Khai at 6am
and 6.20pm, arriving at 5.10pm and 6.25am
respectively. The fares range from 1217B
for a 1st-class sleeper cabin to 498/253B
for a 2nd-/3rd-class seat. There is also one
rapid train (348/213B 2nd/3rd class) leaving
Bangkok at 6.40pm (arriving at 7.35am) and
leaving for Bangkok at 6.20pm (arriving at
6.25am).
For information you can call Nong Khai
train station (%0 4241 1592), which is 2km west
of town.
Getting Around
If your guesthouse doesnt rent bikes (30B to
100B) or motorcycles (150B to 200B), some-
one nearby will. And it pays to shop around
a bit, since brakes arent necessarily standard
equipment. Village Weaver Handicrafts has
a Jeep available for 1000B per day, which is
about the going rate for car rental in Nong
Khai.
A short tk-tk trip around the town centre
will probably cost about 25B.
AROUND NONG KHAI PROVINCE
The Mekong region west of Nong Khai is
madly obsessed with topiary and along the
entire length of Rte 211 youll pass hedges
and bushes sculpted by ambitious gardeners
into everything from elephants to naga to
boxing matches.
lonelyplanet.com N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E
Wat Phra That Bang Phuan
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Boasting a beautiful and ancient Indian-style
stupa, Wat Phra That Bang Phuan (hdaylight hours)
is one of the regions most sacred sites, not least
because some of the Buddhas bones are sup-
posedly buried here. It is similar to the original
chedi beneath the Phra Pathom Chedi in Na-
khon Pathom, but while it is presumed that this
stupa dates back to the early centuries AD, no
one really knows when either was built.
In 1559 King Jayachettha of Chanthaburi
(not the present Chanthaburi in Thailand, but
Wiang Chan now known as Vientiane in
Laos) extended his capital across the Mekong
and built a newer, taller Lao-style chedi over
the original as a demonstration of faith (just
as King Mongkut did in Nakhon Pathom).
Rain caused the chedi to lean precariously
and in 1970 it finally fell over. The Fine Arts
Department restored it in 1976 and 1977.
The current chedi stands 34.25m high on a
17.2-sq-metre base and has several unsur-
faced chedi around it, which give the temple
an ancient atmosphere.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From Nong Khai, catch the 507 Loei-bound
bus and ask for Ban Bang Phuan (20B, 40
minutes).
Tha Bo
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pop 16,000
Surrounded by banana plantations and tobacco
fields that flourish in the fertile Mekong flood-
plains, prosperous Tha Bo is the most impor-
tant market centre between Nong Khai and
Loei. The covered market, which spills out to
the surrounding streets, is full of tobacco, to-
matoes and other locally grown products.
The areas largest Vietnamese population
lives here, and theyve cornered the market on
noodle production. You dont have to travel
far before youll see sheets of kaytaw (wide,
flat noodles) drying in the sun. It used to be
mostly spring-roll wrappers laid out on the
bamboo racks, but noodles are a better export
product and most businesses are making the
switch. Si Chiangmai, just upriver and directly
across the Mekong from Vientiane, has picked
up the slack and is now the areas spring-roll
wrapper capital.
Hotels are still something of an oddity in
Tha Bo, but youll be well cared for at the Gasa-
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
A r o u n d N o n g K h a i P r o v i n c e 499
long Resort & Guest House (%0 4243 1227; Rte 2020;
250-500B; a), 1km out of town, where bright
and cheery bungalows (plus two 250B fan
rooms) rest in a quiet little compound filled
with trees and flowers and surrounded by rice
paddies. There is a handful of food stalls and
basic restaurants on the main street through
the town.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The yellow bus runs regularly between Nong
Khai and Tha Bo (25B, one hour), taking the
scenic riverside route look for fish cranes
along the way. Pick it up in Nong Khai at the
bus station or near the Hospital Food Court
on Th Meechai. Alternatively, take bus 507
(25B, 40 minutes).
Wat Hin Mak Peng
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Wat Hin Mak Peng (hdaylight hours) is worth a trip
if only for the scenery along Rte 211 as the
riverside mountains begin to rise here. The
vast forest temple is nationally known for its
thdong (dhutanga in Pali) monks who have
taken ascetic vows in addition to the stand-
ard 227 precepts, eating only once a day and
wearing robes sewn by hand from torn pieces
of cloth. There are also several me chii living
here. This place is very quiet and peaceful, set
in a cool forest with lots of bamboo groves
overlooking the Mekong. It was built above
three giant boulders that form a cliff rising
out of the river. From this point, a Lao forest
temple can be seen directly across the river
and fisherfolk occasionally drift by on house
rafts. Several monuments honour Luang Pu
Thet, the wats deeply revered founding abbot,
including a glistening chedi housing all his
earthly possessions.
The current abbot requests that visitors
dress politely no shorts or sleeveless tops.
Those who dont observe the code may be
turned away.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The temple is midway between Si Chiangmai
and Sangkhom, on the river side of Rte 211.
Bus 507 passes the wat en route between Nong
Khai (45B, two hours) and Loei.
Sangkhom
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Seductively sleepy, the little town of Sang-
khom, facing the Lao island of Don Klang
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
500 N O N G K HA I P R O V I N C E B e u n g K a n
Khong, is a convenient staging post for those
taking the high (river) road (Rte 211) between
Nong Khai and Loei. The Mekong dominates
life here, but there are also some lovely water-
falls in the area.
The largest local waterfall is three-tiered
Nam Tok Than Thip (admission free; hdaylight hours),
13km west of Sangkhom (2km off Rte 211).
The lower level drops 30m and the second,
easily reached via stairs, falls 100m. The 70m-
top drop is only barely visible through the
lush forest. Nam Tok Than Thong (admission free;
hdaylight hours), 11.5km east of Sangkhom off
the northern (river) side of Rte 211, is a wider
but shorter drop with a swimmable pool at
the bottom. The short nature trail takes you
down by the Mekong. Than Thong is more
accessible than Than Thip, but can be rather
crowded on weekends and holidays.
The forest wat peering down on the town
from the eastern hills, Wat Pa Tak Sua (hdaylight
hours), lies about 4km as the crow flies (ask
someone to point you to the footpath to the
top), but its 18km to drive (take the turn-off
across from Nam Tok Than Thong). It has a
very good sunset-over-the-Mekong view.
Bouys Guest House (%0 4244 1065; Rte 211; r 160-
190B; i) is an Isan word association game;
Sangkhom and the towns veteran guesthouse
are rarely more than a breath apart. Rusticity is
the buzzword here and the riverside thatched
bungalows, the cheaper ones sharing bath-
rooms, are pretty basic, but in better shape
than much of the competition. The owner is
a great big bag of smiles and the location just
west of town is wonderfully relaxing.
Vanda House (%0 4244 1088; Rte 211; r 500-600B;
a) offers some swankier digs 1km east of
town. The resort doesnt make good use of
the river views and isnt really great value,
but its beds will satisfy those who demand a
certain level of comfort. The resorts adjoining
Pu-Pae Restaurant (dishes 30-140B; hbreakfast, lunch
& dinner; a) recently relocated out here from
a great spot across from the police station in
the centre of town; which is a shame because
its atmospheric old post had a wooden terrace
dining room over the Mekong, with two cosy
timber rooms above. Its worth seeing what
has moved in.
A couple of surrounding villages, Ban Pha
Tang and Ban Pak Som, participate in a home-
stay (%0 4242 3783) programme. For 300B you
get three meals and one nights sleep. Extras,
like walks in the forest and cultural perform-
lonelyplanet.com
ances, are available. The TAT office in Nong
Khai can help with arrangements.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus 507 passes through Sangkhom on its way
between Nong Khai (47B, 2 hours) and Loei
(58B, 3 hours).
BEUNG KAN
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Beung Kan is a small dusty town on the Mekong
River, 136km east of Nong Khai by Rte 212. You
may want to break your journey here if you
are working your way around the northeastern
border from Nong Khai to Nakhon Phanom (as
opposed to the easier but less interesting route
via Udon Thani and Sakon Nakhon).
Amphoe Beung Kan itself isnt much, but
it has banks, an internet caf and most other
services you might need, plus a nice prom-
enade along the waterfront. During the dry
season the Mekong River recedes from Beung
Kan and reaches its narrowest point along the
Thai-Lao border. People picnic on the sand-
bar that comes exposed at this time. The sur-
rounding countryside has several waterfalls.
If youre saving your baht for sundowners,
consider the Mekong Guest House (%0 4249 1341;
202/1 Th Chansin; r 200-300B; a), but look carefully
because it treads a fine line between dirty and
filthy. Three doors down, the Maenam Hotel
(%0 4249 1052; 107/1 Th Chansin; r 350-450B; a) is a big
step up in quality and service, offering spotless
rooms with lots of little extras. Just about all the
restaurants on Th Chansin serve inside or river-
side (which can be buggy), including Chowdin (no
roman-script sign; %08 7863 4170; Th Chansin; dishes 30-100B;
hdinner), a jim jam restaurant (cook your own
soup over a wood-burning fire at your table)
where you sit on cushions at short tables. For
a menu in English, try Joys Restaurant (Th Chansin,
Mekong Guest House; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner).
Getting There & Away
Ordinary buses (70B, three hours, three
daily) to Nong Khai park in front of the Thai
Beauty shop near the clocktower. Air-con
buses (110B, two hours, four daily) use the
petrol station about 100m south.
AROUND BEUNG KAN
Wat Phu Tok
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Accessed via a network of rickety staircases
built in, on and around a giant sandstone out-
lonelyplanet.com
crop, Wat Phu Tok (h6.30am-5pm, closed 10-16 April) is
one of the regions true wonders, with fabulous
vistas over the surrounding countryside and a
truly soporific atmosphere. Six levels of steps,
plus a seventh-level scramble up roots and
rocks to the thick forest at the summit, rep-
resent the seven factors of enlightenment in
Buddhist psychology. Monastic kt (medita-
tion huts) are scattered around the mountain,
in caves and on cliffs. It is the cool and quiet
isolation of this wat that entices monks and
me chii from all over the northeast to come
and meditate here many of them do so on the
summit, so be quiet and respectful up there.
This wat used to be the domain of the fa-
mous meditation master Ajahn Juan, a disciple
of the fierce Ajahn Man (see p515) who died
in 1949. Ajahn Juan died in a plane crash in
1980 along with several other highly revered
forest monks who were flying to Bangkok for
Queen Sirikits birthday celebration. A marble
chedi containing his belongings and some
bone relics sits below the mountain.
Visitors who impress the monks by acting
and dressing respectfully are permitted to stay
the night here. Dorms are single sex and you
should not forget that this is a holy place. An-
other, perhaps better, option is the homestay
programme (%08 6086 1221; per person 200B) in Ban
Kom Kan Phat Tana, the village just outside the
wat. Just ask around and youll get pointed in
the right direction.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Tk-tk can be hired to get to Wat Phu Tok
from the clocktower in Beung Kan fares
cost around 600B for the return journey, plus
a two-hour wait at the wat itself. Better still,
take bus 225 from the clocktower south to Si
Wilai (20B, 45 minutes) where tk-tk drivers
charge around 250B to the wat. If you catch an
early bus to Beung Kan, Wat Phu Tok can be
visited as a day trip from Nong Khai. If youre
driving or pedalling, a more direct route to the
monastery is to continue southeast along Rte
212 from Beung Kan for 27km until you reach
Chaiyaporn, then turn right (south) at Rte
3024, the road signed for Jet Si, Tham Phra and
Chut Na waterfalls. After 17.5km make a right
(southwest) and continue 4km more.
Ban Ahong
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A nice alternative to staying in Beung Khan,
Ban Ahong is a pretty little riverside village
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
L O E I P R O V I N C E 501
at the Km 115 marker on Rte 212. Wat Ahong
Silawat (hdaylight hours), on the villages west
side, is built around ruddy boulders at a river
bend known as The Navel of the Mekong be-
cause of the large whirlpool that spins here. A
7m-tall copy of Phitsanuloks Chinnarat Bud-
dha gazes over the Mekong from next to the
simple little bt. This is considered a highly
auspicious spot to spend the evening of wan
wk phansa, the end of the Buddhist Rains
Retreat (Buddhist Lent), because the bng
fai phyaa nak (naga fireballs) were first re-
ported here (see the boxed text, p495).
The Ahong Mekong View Hotel (%0 4290 1112; r
350-650B; a) sits along the river on the temple
grounds and does most of its business with
tour groups so youll likely either find it
booked out or youll be the only guests. The
prices are a bit high, but each of the 14 large
rooms is well appointed and has a balcony.
A better overnight option is the villages
new homestay programme (%08 7223 1544; per per-
son 150B, per meal 50B). About two dozen families
have guestrooms in their houses and you can
join in village life as much as you like, perhaps
joining your hosts out in the surrounding rub-
ber plantations. Either call ahead or stop by
to see Khun Win at house number 74, a little
west of the school on the river road.
The bus between Beung Kan and Ban
Ahong costs 25B (30 minutes).
LOEI PROVINCE
Stretching south from the sleepy arc of the
Mekong River near Chiang Khan to the undu-
lating hilltops of Phu Kradung National Park,
Loei is a diverse, beautiful province untouched
by mass tourism, despite all it has to offer. This
isnt the wildest place in Thailand, but potholes
definitely pepper a still relatively untrammelled
trail that will lead you from the hush of the
regions tranquil national parks to the hubbub
of Dan Sais annual Phi Ta Khon Festival.
The terrain here is mountainous and tem-
peratures fluctuate from one extreme to the
other hotter than elsewhere in Thailand dur-
ing the hot season and colder than anywhere
else during the cold season. This is the only
province in Thailand where temperatures can
drop below 0C, a fact the tourist brochures
love to trumpet. For hiking, the best time to
visit Loei is during the cool months of mid-
October through February.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
502 L O E I P R O V I N C E L o e i lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com L O E I P R O V I N C E L o e i 503

LOEI PROVINCE 0
0
30 km
20 miles
the trip, though if you wont be stopping in arranges trips around the province at reason-
NONG KHAI
Dan Sai, there are Phi Ta Khon festival masks able prices and rents motorcycles (200B) if
and photos to see. youd rather get there yourself.

Mekong River
Ban Khok Wang Saphung, 24km south of Loei, is the King Hotel (%0 4281 1701; 11/9-12 Th Chumsai; r
Fak Tha LAOS Pak Chom
1268
strange and unlikely location of the Sirindhorn 240-600B; a) Fit for a king? No, but business
UTARADIT Arts Centre (%0 4284 1410; Rte 210; admission free; travellers love it. The pleasant rooms sur-
Xanakham
Kaeng Khut Khu
Ban Kong
Na Khae
h8.30am-4.30pm). It was built to honour Sang- round a small courtyard and shining surfaces,
Ban Phalat 2108
Ban
Nongpachit
Chiang Khan kom Thongmee, a famous local teacher (since even in the fan rooms, bear testament to a
UDON
Phu Kaew Yai
(839m) THANI retired) at the adjoining school whose students, clutch of hard-working, behind-the-scenes
Rai
Na Chan
Ban Napanard Klang mostly farmers children, have won thousands cleaners.
Kaen Thao Song Puai Nam Som of awards for their work. Theres a sculpture AP Court Hotel (%0 4286 1627; www.apcourthotel
Ban Tad garden and gallery and sometimes student .com; 31/29 Th Ruamphattana; r 350-600B; a) The
Ban Pak Ban Nam
Huay Khaem
201 2249 work on display, which is invariably more in- rooms at this newly built property, hidden
Rom
ng

Ban A Hii
Klao Pak Sup Na Rai teresting that the professionals exhibits. away in the centre of the block, are a bit of a
ua

Po Sawang
He Tha Li Mak
Kok Du letdown compared to the plant- and art-filled
Festivals & Events lobby (where you can use wi-fi), but the value
m

Phu Reua Khok Yai 2115 Tup Koi

Na

Bo Phak e (1375m)
Though Loeis farmers are fast switching to is undeniable.
Ma

Muang Phia
Na Haew Loei
Lao Kohok Pak Man Phu Reua
National Park 203
Loei
Na Duang other crops, the end of January/start of Febru- Loei Palace Hotel (%0 4281 5668; loeipalace@amari
Phu San Tom
Rai Tham
ary still sees a Cotton Blossom Festival that culmi- .com; 167/4 Th Charoenrat; s/d/t 3060/3296/4002B;
2113
2114 Reua nates in a parade of cotton-decorated floats. ais) Loeis flagship hotel sports some
Na Di Na Kae
Chateau de Loei Winery Pha Noi wedding-cake architecture, helpful staff,
Lao
Khok Ngam
Wang
Saphung
210
Tham Erawan
Sleeping plenty of mod cons and 40% discounts when
Phu Khat Na Klang
(1468m) Dan Sai
Kok So
Erawan Sugar Guest House (%0 4281 2982; 4/1 Th Wisut Titep business is slow, which is almost always.
NONG
Lat Makok Phu Luang
National Park Na Dok BUALAMPHU Soi 2; r 150-350B; a) The cheapest place in town Check out the flood marker and photos next
PHITSANULOK
Pong Chi Wang Yao
Mai Non
Muang is also the friendliest. The fan rooms share a to the reception desk to see what the city suf-
2250 201
Phu Luang Phu Papai hot-water bath. The English-speaking owner fered in September 2002.
2013 Nam Yen (1571m) Phu Luang
Nam Lao 2016 Nong Kan
Nong Hin

Huay Tin Tang

Loei Wang Sai Nong Bua
LOEI 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Pha Khao Yang Lo
To Tourist Police To Cultural Centre
203 Phuay Deng (1.5km); Dan Sai
A of Loei (4km); B C D
Tat Kha
(80km); Lom Sak Tha Li (47km);
Kok Krathon (144km) Chiang Khan (48km)
Phu Hin 201

Th Wisut Titep
Sila Wang Kon Phu Kradung 8
Rong Kla Huat National Park 203
National Park
Phu Kradung
PHETCHABUN Ban Nam (1360m) Si Than 1 INFORMATION
Nao
Wang Ban Phu Kradung 201
Bangkok Bank..........................1 D2
Lom Kao
2216 Faster Zone..............................2 C3
KHON KAEN Loei Tourism Coordination
Khaem
Son Nam Nao Centre.................................3 C3
To Nam Nao
Lom Sak National Park (60km) Si Chompu Loei Travel ............................(see 7)
Main Post Office......................4 C3
2138
SLEEPING
LOEI Faster Zone (22/38 Soi Pia Th Chumsai; per hr 15B; AP Court Hotel........................5 C2 Th Phiphattan
amongkhon

Th Sathon Chiang
g]p h8am-10pm) Surf the web here.

Na
King Hotel...............................6 C3

Th Cha

m
Loei Palace Hotel.....................7 D3
pop 33,000 Loei Ram Hospital (%0 4283 3400; Th Maliwan) Sugar Guest House..................8 D1 9

Th Ruamjit
Arrive here after a sojourn in the regions South of the city centre. 2

roenra
Loe
EATING i
dreamy countryside and Loei, the capital of Loei Tourism Coordination Centre (%0 4281 2812; Krua Nid..................................9 C2 amja i
14

Th Ruam

t
Kwan Im Jae..........................10 C2 Th Ru
the province, is little more than a reminder Th Charoenat; h8.30am-4.30pm)

Khan
Loei-Danang..........................11 C2
that concrete and congestion still exist. Ef- Loei Travel (%0 4283 0741; 167/4 Th Charoenrat) In Mobile Steak..........................12 C3 1

phat
Night Market.........................13 C3 10 11 Th Ua Ari
forts to upgrade the town, including a large the Loei Palace Hotel. 5

tana
Night Market.........................14 D2
city-centre lake and a plush new hotel, have Main post office (Th Charoenat; h8.30am-4.30pm 2 12
done little to haul Loei out of the doldrums, Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) Th Chumsai
6
w 13
and, as the Tourism Authority of Thailand Tourist police (%1155; Rte 203) West of town. k Kae
Th No
Th Mal

Lak Meuang
itself says: The city of Loei has little to hold (City Pillar)

the travellers interest. Sights 3 2015

iwan

If youve been to any other Isan museum,

rat
Information the little Cultural Centre of Loei (%0 4283 5224; Rte 201
To Bus Terminal (1km);

en
Loei Ram Hospital (2.5km);
3

aro
Wang Saphung (24km);
Bangkok Bank (Th Charoenrat; h8.30am-3.30pm 201; admission free; h8.30am-4.30pm), 4km north of

Ch
Sirindhorn Arts Centre (25km); 7
4

Th
Udon Thani (140km)
Mon-Fri) Has an ATM and exchange service. town at Rajabhat University, is hardly worth
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
504 L O E I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d L o e i P r o v i n c e
Eating
Kwan Im Jae (%0 4281 4863; Soi Pia Th Chumsai; dishes
15-30B; hbreakfast & lunch) A small, friendly veg-
etarian restaurant.
Krua Nid (no roman-script sign; %0 4281 3013; Th
Charoenrat; dishes 20-45B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner)
Basic and striplit, this no-frills eatery serves
hw mk (souffl-like curry steamed in ba-
nana leaves) and other central-Thai dishes.
Look for the banana-leaf balls or the Wel-
come sign.
Loei-Danang (%0 4283 0413; 22/58-60 Soi Pia Th
Chumsai; dishes 25-120B; hlunch & dinner; a) This
friendly restaurant, on whats commonly
called Soi Night Plaza, adds Thai dishes and
ice cream to its wonderful Vietnamese menu.
There are a few pictures in the menu to help
you order.
Mobile Steak (no roman-script sign; %08 5008 8288;
Th Chumsai; dishes 30-159B; hlunch & dinner) One of
Snow Whites dwarves welcomes you to this
alfresco eatery that serves tasty Thai, as well as
slabs of beef, at wooden tables surrounded by
pot plants and the sounds of golden oldies.
Most of the citys culinary razzmatazz and
a whole host of cheap eats can be found
at Loeis two night markets (h4-10pm), both
on the east side of town. Look for the local
speciality, khi png (eggs in the shell toasted
on skewers).
Getting There & Away
AIR
Nok Air (www.nokair.com) connects Loei to Bang-
kok (1750B, 1 hours), Udon Thani (600B, 35
minutes) and Chiang Mai (2550B, two hours
20 minutes) on Fridays and Sundays. Book
tickets at Loei Travel (%0 4283 0741) in the Loei
Palace Hotel.
BUS
The most frequent service is to Udon Thani
(ordinary/air-con 60/110B, three hours, every
30 minutes). For Nong Khai (105B, six hours)
there are several ordinary buses through the
morning and early afternoon; this is a scenic
route, but its easier and faster to go via Udon
Thani. There are also four air-con Chiang
Mai (438B to 657B, 10 hours) departures
daily. Air-con buses to Bangkoks North-
ern bus terminal (344B, nine to 10 hours)
leave frequently, and there are also 24-seat
(685B) and 32-seat (521B) VIP services with
Air Muang Loei (%0 4283 2042) and 999 VIP (%0
4281 1706).
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
Getting Around
Swngthew (7B) run from the bus station
into town about every five minutes, or you
can take a tk-tk for 20B.
AROUND LOEI PROVINCE
Phu Kradung National Park
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Capped off by its eponymous peak, Phu Kradung
National Park (%0 4287 1333; admission 400B; htrail to
summit 7am-2pm Oct-May) covers a high-altitude pla-
teau, cut through with trails and peppered with
cliffs, waterfalls and montane forests. Rising
to 1316m, Thailands second national park is
always cool at its highest reaches (average year-
round temperature 20C; dropping as low as
1C to 2C at night in December and January),
where its flora is more typical of a temperate
zone. The maple trees paint some corners red
in December and January. Lower down are
mixed deciduous and evergreen monsoon for-
ests as well as sections of cloud forest.
A small visitor centre at the base of the
mountain distributes detailed maps and col-
lects your admission fee, but almost every-
thing else is on the top. The main trail scaling
Phu Kradung is 5.5km long and takes about
three to four hours to climb (or rather walk
its not that challenging since the most diffi-
cult parts have bamboo ladders and stairs for
support). The hike is quite scenic and there
are rest stops with food vendors about every
kilometre along the way. Its another 3.5km
to the main park visitor centre (h8am-5pm). You
can hire porters to carry your gear balanced
on bamboo poles for 15B per kilogram.
The 359-sq-km park is a habitat for vari-
ous forest wildlife, including elephants, Asian
jackals, Asiatic black bears, barking deer, sam-
bars, serows, white-handed gibbons and the
occasional tiger. The best place to see them is
the wilderness area, which can only be entered
in April and May. The many waterfalls, in-
cluding Tham Yai, which has a cave behind it,
are accessible year-round.
The park is closed to visitors during the rainy
season because it is considered too hazardous,
being slippery and subject to mudslides. Spend-
ing the night atop Phu Kradung is a rite of
passage for students, so it gets crowded during
school holidays (especially March to May).
SLEEPING & EATING
Atop the mountain there are camp sites (per
person 30B, 2-person tent hire 150B) and 13 swanky
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
bungalows (4 people 1600B). There are also sev-
eral small open-air eateries serving the usual
stir-fry dishes for 40B. If you are arriving
late in the afternoon, there is one bungalow
at the bottom and a few resorts outside the
entrance.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses on the LoeiKhon Kaen line go to the
district town of Phu Kradung (55B, 1 hours,
every half-hour). From Phu Kradung, hop on
a swngthew (20B) to the park visitor centre
at the base of the mountain, 10km away. The
last bus back to Loei from Phu Kradung leaves
around 8pm.
Tham Erawan
$kgvik;yI
High up the side of a beautiful limestone moun-
tain, Tham Erawan (donations appreciated; hdaylight
hours) is a large cave shrine, featuring a vast seated
Buddha. Gazing out over the plains below, the
Buddha is visible from several kilometres away
and can be reached by a winding staircase of
some 600 steps. Theres not much to admire
in the cave itself, but the views are photogenic
and its a good place to stretch your legs if you
happen to be travelling along Rte 210.
The cave is at the back of Wat Tham Erawan
(hdaylight hours), which is 2km north of a turn-
off on Rte 210 just across the Nong Bualam-
phu Province line. A tk-tk will shuttle you
there for about 20B.
Phu Reua National Park
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Phu Rua means boat mountain, a moniker
that owes its origins to a cliff that juts out
of the peak sort of in the shape of a Chinese
junk. At only 121 sq km, Phu Reua National
Park (%0 4288 1716, reservations 0 2562 0760; admis-
sion 400B; h8am-8pm) isnt one of Thailands
most impressive reserves, but it does offer
some dreamy vistas from the summit of the
mountain it surrounds. Few visitors do more
than make the easy 30-minute hike from the
upper visitor centre through pine forest to
the summit (1365m), where in December and
January temperatures can drop below freez-
ing at night. There are some fine views of a
mountain range in Sainyabuli Province, Laos,
up here. Hin San waterfall is just a 300m walk
from the parking area.
If you want solitude, head out from the
lower visitor centre. Huai Phai waterfall is an
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
L O E I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d L o e i P r o v i n c e 505
easy 2.5km hike or take a roundabout route
to the summit starting down here.
SLEEPING & EATING
The park offers a number of accommodation
options, and if they are all full, dont worry,
the town seemingly has more hotel rooms
than houses. As well as a camp site (per person
30B, 2-person tent hire 250B), there are also some
comfortable bungalows (4 people 1500B) with fan,
hot water and fridge, as well as simpler rooms
(3 people 500B). There are restaurants at both
visitor centres.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The park is about 50km west of the provincial
capital on Rte 203. Although buses heading
west from Loei can drop you in the town
of Phu Reua (ordinary/air-con 40/55B, 1
hours), youll have to charter a swngthew
for around 600B (including a few hours wait)
to the park.
Dan Sai & Around
fjko:hkp
For 362 days a year, Dan Sai is an innocuous
little town, a borderline backwater commu-
nity where life revolves around a small market
and a dusty main street. For the remaining
three days, however, it is the site of one of the
countrys liveliest and loudest festivals.
Falling during the fourth lunar month
(usually June), Dan Sais Phi Ta Khon Festival
(also called Bun Phra Wet) combines the Phra
Wet Festival during which recitations of the
Mahavessantara Jataka (past-life stories of the
Buddha) are supposed to enhance the listeners
chance of being reborn in the lifetime of the
next Buddha with Bun Bng Fai (Rocket Fes-
tival). For those wishing to plunge headlong
into Isan life, this curious cross between the
drunken revelry of Carnival and the spooky
imagery of Halloween is a must-see.
The origins of the Phi Ta Khon Festival are
shrouded in ambiguity, but some aspects of
the festival appear to be related to tribal Thai
possibly Tai Dam spirit cults. In fact, the
dates for the festival are divined by Jao Phaw
Kuan, a local spirit medium who channels
the information from Jao Saen Meuang, the
towns guardian deity.
INFORMATION
Information centre (%0 4289 1094; Th Kaew Asa;
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) In the library by the market.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
506 L O E I P R O V I N C E lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com L O E I P R O V I N C E C h i a n g K h a n 507

Has festival photos and free internet. The staff speaks a limited within the town itself, though out on
THE ARRIVAL OF THE SPIRITS little English, but if its not enough, stop by City Hall just Rte 203 towards Loei theres a good selection
Dan Sais three-day Phi Ta Khon (phi taa khhn) Festival known as Bun Phra Wet in other towns up the road. if you can spend a little more and have your
is one of the most colourful and unique annual events in Thailand. On the first day the village Krung Thai Bank (Rte 203; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon- own transport.
shaman, Jao Phaw Kuan, assisted by his shaman wife Jao Mae Nang Tiam, plus a group of male Fri) Changes dollars and euros only. Homestay (%information centre 0 4289 1094; per per-
and female lesser mediums, leads the propitiation of the all-important tiam. The tiam are a class Post office (Th Kaew Asa; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, son 150B) The information centre places visitors
of spirits similar to the Lao-Thai khwn (guardian spirits) but perceived to be at a higher level. to noon Sat & holidays) in homes in nearby villages. The families dote
Ceremonies begin around 3.30am in a procession from Dan Sais Wat Phon Chai to Mae Nam on farng guests and will take you out to give
Man. Rites are performed at the riverside to coax Phra Upakhut a water spirit supposedly em- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES food to the monks in the morning and share
bodied in an invisible piece of white marble to join the proceedings. Phra Upakhut is believed On the main road through town, Wat Phon Chai other typical daily activities. The informa-
to have once been a monk with supernatural powers, who transformed himself into white marble (Th Kaew Asa; hdaylight hours) plays a major role tion centre can also set you up to stay at Wat
to live a solitary and peaceful existence below the water. The procession accompanied by the in the Phi Ta Khon festivities. The small Dan Neramit Wiphatsana for a small donation.
spirit then returns to the wat, where resident monks receive ceremonial food at around 7am. Sai Folk Museum (donations appreciated; h9am-5pm) Yen Suk Guest House (%0 4289 2281; Rte 203; r 250-
Shortly thereafter the summoning of additional spirits takes place at Jao Phaw Kuans home, here features a collection of costumes worn 600B; a) The only guesthouse in town (though
which doubles as the most important spirit shrine in Dan Sai. After some incantations and light- during the celebrations. another is supposedly coming soon) is a bright
ing of candles, villagers crawl up to Jao Phaw and Jao Mae, now in states of semitrance, and tie Phra That Si Songrak (Rte 2113; hdaylight hours) is orange affair built in 2006. The rooms, includ-
lots of sacred thread on their arms. The attendants also tie sacred thread around one wrist of the most highly revered stupa in Loei Prov- ing the cheap fan rooms, are fine, but the neigh-
everyone present. While all this is taking place, free food is served and everyone downs shots ince. The whitewashed Lao-style chedi stands bours give you a very early wake-up call.
of lo kho (white spirit) to get in the mood for what comes next.
30m high and was built in 1560 as a gesture Rangyen Resort (%0 4280 9511; www.rungyenresort
As the thread tying finishes up, the attendants don special costuming and gather in front of the
of unity between the Lao kingdom of Wiang .com; Rte 203; r 1090-9200B; ais) When you
house. Most of the outfits look like something from Shakespearean theatre meant for beggar or
Chan (Vientiane) and the Thai kingdom of crest the hill, this resort, owned by Chateau
jester roles ragged and tattered but very colourful. To complete the transformation into phi taa
Ayuthaya in their resistance against the Bur- de Loei, makes a great first impression. Spread
khhn (an untranslatable term basically meaning Phra Wet spirits), each attendant dons a huge
mese. A pavilion in front of it contains a very out over several hectares, this pleasant spot
mask made from a hat (crescent-shaped basket used for steaming sticky rice), cut and reshaped
to fit atop the head, and a thick sheath from the base of a coconut palm frond. On the typical
old chest that supposedly contains an even boasts a sizable pond, a swimming pool, ten-
mask small eye-openings are cut into the palm sheath and a large curving wooden nose added;
older carved stone Buddha about 76cm long. nis courts and manicured gardens. The large
the whole affair is custom painted, to suit the wearer, with all manner of designs.
You cant wear shoes or the colour red, or rooms have nice decorations and the bun-
Two of the attendants, however, wear tall bamboo frames assembled in vaguely human shapes,
carry food or umbrellas anywhere on temple galows (sleeping up to 10) have fireplaces.
covered with white cloth and topped with giant heads standing perhaps 2m above their own grounds. Off-season (April to September) discounts
heads. One figure is male, the other female, as is obvious from the huge, exaggerated sexual organs Wat Neramit Wiphatsana (hdaylight hours), on are nearly 50%. Theres a big restaurant and
attached to the outfits. These are the phi taa khhn yi (big Phra Wet spirits), and exactly what a wooded hill overlooking Phra That Si Son- a karaoke bar on the premises as the place is
they represent is anyones guess nowadays. The costumed figures, as well as civilians, then begin grak, is a gorgeous (it almost looks like a Bud- geared towards convention business. Its a
a boisterous, dance-filled procession fuelled by more lo kho back to the monastery. dhist-themed resort) meditation wat where 10km drive off the highway, so you can forget
Once the cavalcade reaches the wat grounds, the participants begin circumambulating the most of the buildings are made of unplastered about using public transport to get here.
main whan (large hall) and continue for a couple hours, becoming increasingly rowdy with each laterite blocks. Famous Thai temple muralist Aim Aun (no roman-script sign; %0 4289 1586; Rte
turn. Theres abundant sexual innuendo and older village women take turns grabbing the lengthy Pramote Sriphrom spent years painting im- 203; dishes 25-200B; hlunch & dinner) Sizzling Thai
penis of the male phi taa khhn yi and giving it a few good shakes, laughing all the while. The ages of jataka tales on the interior walls of the favourites, like kaeng pa (forest curry), are
whole thing ends around noon and people stagger back home to sleep it off. bt. The wat is dedicated to the memory of the served under a thatched roof in a garden set-
On day two all the locals get into costume and accompany Jao Phaw and Jao Mae in a procession late Ajahn Mahaphan (also known as Khruba ting, on the edge of town.
from Chum Chon Dan Sai School to the temple. In earlier years the shaman court rode on wood or Phawana), a much-revered local monk. There are a few noodle and rice shops near
bamboo palanquins, but these days they sit on colourful dais in the back of pick-up trucks. Bamboo Out of town on Rte 203 near the Km 60 Wat Phon Chai and a market filled with food
rockets ride along with them. As on the first day, theres plenty of music and dancing, but this time marker is Chateau de Loei Winery (%0 4280 9521; stalls opposite the information centre.
there are hundreds more participants, and spectators marvel at the many different costume designs www.chateaudeloei.com; h8am-5pm), Thailands
cooked up for this years event. Many of the costumed phi taa khhn, both men and women, carry most respected vineyard. The winery released GETTING THERE & AWAY
carved wooden phalli (or a knife or sword with a phallic handle) in one or both hands, waving them the first commercially produced Thai wine in Thirteen buses from Loei (ordinary/air-con
about as talismans or using them to tease the crowd while they dance and strut down the street. 1995 and scooped a silver medal for its Chenin 50/60B, 1 hours) to Phitsanulok (ordinary/
Tin cans and wooden cowbells hang from some costumes to increase the racket. Blanc dessert wine in the 2004 International air-con 71/99B, three hours) stop in Dan Sai
Once again, when they reach the wat, the participants dance round the whan for hours, Wine & Spirits Competition. Visitors are wel- daily. Buses leaving Dan Sai depart from the
becoming more raucous and spontaneous as the day wears on. At the same time in front of the come and you can taste its wines, grape juices entrance of Yen Suk Guest House.
wat theres live mw lam (an Isan musical tradition). If it has rained recently, participants will and brandies back in the main winery build-
revel in the mud. As one Western observer remarked: Its like Woodstock and Halloween rolled ing. There is a restaurant and gift-gourmet CHIANG KHAN
into one. Come late afternoon the bamboo rockets are fired off to the sky. shop on the main road. g(up'%ko
The celebration ends with a more solemn third day as the villagers assemble at the temple to Traditional timber houses line the streets, old
listen to Mahavessantara Jataka recitations (past-life stories of the Buddha) and Dhamma sermons SLEEPING & EATING ladies sit nattering in their shadow and the
by local and visiting monks. By custom, 13 sermons are delivered in a row. As very few people stay in Dan Sai outside the Mekong drifts slowly by: if you had an image of
festival season, accommodation is extremely a northern riverside town where nothing much
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
508 L O E I P R O V I N C E C h i a n g K h a n lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com L O E I P R O V I N C E C h i a n g K h a n 509

CHIANG KHAN 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
They sit on a ledge over a larger, modern and motorcycles (around 200B). Mekong Cul-
To Post Office (400m) Buddha in the wats modern bt. The temple ture & Nature Tours, which plans to open an
A B C D is 2km outside town on the way to Kaeng office in town, has kayaks for rent (two hours
9 g 8

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Kh

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Khut Khu. 400B, full-day trip with shuttle 1500B) and,

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Ch To Wat Tha

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Th Khaek (4km); Another well-known monastic centre in if farng are ever allowed to cross the border

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9
Riv
Chiang Khan Hill Resort (6km);
LAOS the area is Samnak Song Phu Pha Baen (hdaylight here, will offer boat services to Vientiane.

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Kaeng Khut Khu (6km);
1
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Wat Si Song Nong (6.5km);
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Night Samnak Song Phu hours), 12km east of Chiang Khan (no English sig- Both Chiang Khan Guest House and Me-

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Market Pha Baen (12km);

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Pak Chom (41km); nage), where monks meditate in caves and on kong Culture & Nature Tours arranges a host

7
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n Nong Khai (173km)
2 ha
tree platforms. of customised regional tours. Huub at Chiang

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Ch Khan Guest House can also set you up with a

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5
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Activities map if youre a do-it-yourselfer.

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KAENG KHUT KHU

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3
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11 Next to nobody in Bangkok has ever heard Chiang Khan comes alive during wan wk
2
12
So

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SLEEPING of Chiang Khan, but most know the rapids at phansa, the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat
1
So

Chiang Khan Guest House.......9 D1

Kaeng Khut Khu (admission free; h24hr), a popular (Buddhist Lent) in late October and early Novem-
i1

13
5
0

Loogmai Guest House.............10 A3

So

Tonkhong Guest House..........11 B2 spot (at its most beautiful in the dry, hot sea- ber. Theres a week-long festival that features
i9

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on
son) for paddling, picnicking and sunsoaking, a parade of large carved wax prasat from each
So

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ai EATING
Ch
Th Rabiang...................................12 B2 about 6km downstream from Chiang Khan. of the temples in town, as well as boat races on
So

Municipal
10
i7

15
7 Market
DRINKING The surrounding park has thatched-roof shel- the river and a carnival with mw lam (an Isan
So

n
ha INFORMATION Rimkong Pub..........................13 A2 ters with reed mats on raised wooden plat- musical tradition) performances at night.
i6

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hia 3 Government Savings Bank...1 A3
So

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3 14 forms where food vendors sell delicious Isan
i5

Th So Phet Computer....................2 C1 TRANSPORT

17
19
3 1
To Mekong Culture &
Nature Tours (1km)
To Ban Napanard
(17km); Loei (48km)
happens and no one seems to care, Chiang
Khan may just be it. Pretty and peaceful, with
photogenic views of the river and the moun-
tains of Laos beyond, this little town has a good
spread of cheap accommodation and makes a
restful stopover if you fancy a couple of days
of doingwellnothing.
Information
Government Savings Bank (Rte 201; h8.30am-
3.30pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM, but there are no foreign-
exchange facilities in town.
Phet Computer (Th Chiang Khan; per hr 40B; h10am-
11pm) Check your email here.
Police box (%1155; cnr Rte 201 & Th Chiang Khan) On
the main road through town.
Post office (Soi 26; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon
Sat, Sun & holidays)
Tourist Information Centre (Kaeng Khut Khu;
h9am-5pm) Your guesthouse would be a better source
of information on the area.
Sights
TEMPLES
Chiang Khans wats are modest, but feature
a particularly idiosyncratic style of wat ar-
Police Box............................3 A3 999 VIP...................................14
Air Muang Loei.......................15
B3
B3
food and drinks into the late afternoon. The Sleeping
6 local speciality is coconut candy (m-prw Chiang Khan Guest House (% 08 4282 1691;
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Nakhon Chai Air Bus
Wat Mahathat.....................4
Wat Pa Klang.......................5
C2
B2
Terminal...............................16
Phu Kradung Tours.................17
B3
A3
kw), and this is also a good place to try kng www.thailandunplugged.com; 282 Th Chai Khong; s/d/t
18 Wat Santi.............................6 B3 Swngthew to Loei & Ban ten (dancing shrimp), little bowls of live 200/250/300B) Run by a Dutch tour guide (youll
Wat Si Khun Meuang..........7 A3 Tad.....................................18 B3
201
Wat Thakhok.......................8 D1 Swngthew to Pak Chom.....19 A3
shrimp meant for slurping down just as they never be short of local info) and his affable
16
come. Swngthew rarely come out here, so Thai wife (youll never stop laughing), this
rent a bike in town. traditional-style place with shared bathrooms
chitecture rarely seen in Thailand. Featuring is all creaking timber and tin roofing. Scores of
colonnaded fronts and painted shutters, the BOAT TRIPS & TOURS pot plants and bucolic views from the terrace
whan temples echo the French architectural Most guesthouses listed here arrange boat round out the scene.
influences of Laos. A good example in the trips to Kaeng Khut Khu (per person 200B Tonkhong Guest House (%08 1670 2729; 299/3 Th
centre of town is Wat Pa Klang (Th Chiang Khan; to 300B) or further afield, and the mountain Chai Khong; s 150, d 200-380B; a) Modern modifi-
hdaylight hours), which is about 100 years old scenery makes these highly recommended. cations have robbed this old wooden place
and features a new glittery superstructure. On Most guesthouses also rent bikes (200B to of most of its charm, but the owner scores
the grounds of this wat is a small Chinese gar- 280B for a mountain bike, 50B for a clunker) high marks for bonhomie and its the homiest
den with a pond, waterfall, and Chinese-style
sculptures of Buddha and Kuan Yin. Temple
structures at Wat Santi (Soi 9; hdaylight hours) and TAI DAM
Wat Thakhok (Th Chai Khong; hdaylight hours) are The village of Ban Napanard, near Chiang Khan, is home to many Tai Dam people who migrated
similar to those at Wat Pa Klang (minus the here from Laos sometime around 1885, though their ancient cultural home is in Vietnam.
Chinese garden, etc). Locals run a little-known homestay (%0 4281 4664; per person 200B) where you get to learn about
Wat Mahathat (Th Chiang Khan; hdaylight hours), Tai Dam culture and history and join in village life. The price includes three meals of Tai Dam
in the centre of town, is Chiang Khans old- food, which is similar to Isan food, but with different sauces. Also available, whether you do the
est temple; the bt, constructed in 1654, has homestay or not, is a partial performance of their Sair Pang cultural dance show, which colourfully
a new roof over old walls, with faded original tells the story of a witch doctor healing the sick. The money (1200B) from these shows, which
murals on the front. require a few days notice to arrange, goes to maintain a small Tai Dam Cultural Centre (admission
Wat Si Khun Meuang (Th Chai Khong; hdaylight free, hdaylight hours), with an old-style bamboo and thatch house that needed several shows worth
hours) contains a Lao-style chedi and bt, of repairs when we last saw it. In their free time, women come down here to weave.
fronted by an unusual mural style, plus a Two swngthew make the trip from Chiang Khan (25B, 30 minutes) daily and some guest-
topiary garden. houses in Chiang Khan run tours (which may be the more educational option if you dont speak
Wat Tha Khaek (hdaylight hours) is a lovely Thai). If you are coming on your own, head down Rte 201 for 5km and then follow Rte 3011 for
and peaceful 600- to 700-year-old temple 11.5km to the village.
housing three very old stone Buddha images.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
510 N A K H O N P HA N O M P R O V I N C E N a k h o n P h a n o m Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N A K H O N P HA N O M P R O V I N C E N a k h o n P h a n o m 511

choice facing the river. Doors close at 11pm.
Cooking classes and massage are available.
Loogmai Guest House (%0 4282 2334; 112
Th Chai Khong; r 300-400B) Combining some mini-
malist modern artistic styling with oodles of
French colonial class, this old school villa offers
a handful of sparse but atmospheric rooms, an
airy terrace with river views and a real sense of
history. The owner leaves the villa at 9pm (you
get the key) and chances are youll have the
place to yourself. It also has one large room,
where theres enough space to swing cats by
the dozen. Bathrooms are shared.
Mekong Culture & Nature Tours (%0 4282 1457;
mcn_thailand@hotmail.com; 407 Th Chiang Khan; camp
sites per person 100B, r 800-900B; i) If you want
some Siamese serenity, head 1km upstream
to this riverside home with six shared-bath
guestrooms and a bungalow in the forest out
the back. Rooms are quite pricey for what you
get, but youre paying for the setting, and off-
season discounts are available. If you are trav-
elling by bus, staff will pick you up in town.
Eating & Drinking
The guesthouses and hotels offer the best
dining options.
Rabiang (no roman-script sign; %0 4282 1532; 299 Th Chai
Khong; dishes 30-150B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Its not
the cheeriest of venues, but the views of the river
are pleasant and all the usual Thai favourites are
represented on the English-language menu.
from Nakhon Chai Airs bus terminal about
100m further south.
No transport runs direct to Nong Khai, so
youll have to get out of town to catch the bus
headed there from Loei. It may be possible to
take a swngthew to Pak Chom (25B, one
hour), but these only run if theyre full, and
they rarely fill up these days since the road is
in terrible shape (though you could always
just buy up the remaining seats). The surer
option is to take the Loei swngthew south
to Ban Tad (20B, 30 minutes) and get the bus
there. Ask at your guesthouse if things have
changed.
Three companies make the run to Bangkok
(about 10 hours) daily from their own offices.
Air Muang Loei (%0 4282 1002; Soi 9), with an office
at a pharmacy, has two buses (1st/2nd class
479/372B) each morning at 8am and again
at 6.30pm. 999 VIP (%0 4281 1706; Soi 9) includes
ordinary services (193B) at 6pm and 6.50pm,
and a 24-seat VIP (540B) at 6.30pm. Phu Kra-
dung Tours (%0 9696 2845; Rte 201) charges 372B
for its 6.30pm trip.
If youre heading west and youve got your
own wheels, consider following the seldom-
seen back roads along Mae Nam Heuang; they
will eventually deposit you in Dan Sai.
NAKHON PHANOM
PROVINCE
the other side of the border, this slightly scruffy Tourist police (%1155; Th Sunthon Wijit) In the park
little provincial capital can sure sell its post- next to the Nakhon Phanom River View Hotel.
cards. The bad news is that theres not a whole
lot to do once youve written them. Sights
Most of Nakhon Phanoms wats feature bas-
Information relief carvings on the exterior walls, a distinc-
Bangkok Bank (Lotus Department Store; Th Nittaya; tive temple style that spilled over from the Lan
h10am-8pm) Changes cash only. There are many more Xang kingdom in southern Laos around the
banks, open normal banking hours, in the town centre that 17th century. Later a vivid French influence
also do travellers cheques. crossed the Mekong. One good example is
Crab Internet (Th Si Thep; per hr 10B; h8.30am- Wat Maha That (Th Sunthon Wijit; hdaylight hours),
10pm) founded along with the city in the 6th century.
Immigration office (%0 4251 1235; Th Sunthon Wijit; Its 24m-tall, gold and white Phra That Na-
h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) For visa extensions. khon chedi resembles the second chedi built
Main post office (Th Sunthon Wijit; h8.30am-4.30pm at That Phanom.
Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays) Wat Okat Si Bua Ban (Th Sunthon Wijit; hdaylight
North By North-East Tours (%0 4251 3572; www hours) predates the town and also has a touch of
.north-by-north-east.com; 746/1 Th Sunthon Wijit; Chinese influence. The whan houses Phra
h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) Specialises in bird-watching Taew and Phra Tiam, two sacred wooden
and other ecotours, especially across the river in Laos Buddha images, and the murals show the
mountains. It can also help arrange volunteer placements story of them floating across the Mekong
in the area. from Laos.
TAT (%0 4251 3490; www.tourismthailand.org; Th The interior murals of the bt at Wat Si Thep
Sunthon Wijit; h8.30am-4.30pm) The handiest thing (Th Si Thep; hdaylight hours) show the jataka along
it has is a rough City Tour map that leads you past a few the upper portion, and kings of the Chakri
grand old buildings. dynasty along the lower part. On the back of
NAKHON PHANOM 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Nam Song
A B 5 C D
Si (45km); Pak Nam
Chaiburi (45km);
Beung Kan (167km);
Nong Khai (303km)
212 LAOS

Th Sunthon Wijit
Chiang Khan Hill Resort (%0 4282 1285; dishes 25- 1 Th Ratchathan 4
230B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The best views

Mekong
Police
of Kaeng Khut Khu are from the areas only Lao, Vietnamese and, in the capital, Chinese Station INFORMATION
Bangkok Bank....................................1 A3
swank resort. Dine riverside, inside, or on a influences dominate Nakhon Phanom, a prov- Crab Internet......................................2 B3
dry-docked boat. ince bordered by the Mekong and dotted with Immigration Office.............................3
Main Post Office................................4
C3
C1
Rimkong Pub (%0 4282 1125; 294 Th Chai Khong; Lao-style that. Though just about every per-

River
Th Luk Seua Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)..5 C1
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) French expat Pascal son you see working in the rice fields or herd-
13
15 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
will tell you all you want to know about the ing buffalo along the road is ethnically Thai, Th Fuang Na
khon
14 19 Wat Okat Si Bua Ban.........................6 C2
Wat Si Thep.......................................7 B3
area (or the bungalows he rents) over beer most wear the conical Vietnamese-style straw
or breakfast. hats. Its not a region bristling with attrac- 2 8 SLEEPING

it
Clock First Hotel..........................................8 C2
tions, but there are plenty of fine river views,

ng Pras
17 11 Tower Grand Hotel........................................9 B3

Bancha
Entertainment and the colossal Wat Phra That Phanom, in Passeng er Fer r y Sritep Hotel......................................10

Thep
B3
18

ro
Windsor Hotel..................................11 B2
Chiang Khan Guest House (%0 4282 1691; www.thai That Phanom, is an enchanting talisman of

Th Tham
16

Th Si
Th Aphiban
6

g
euan
To Friendship Village (4km);
landunplugged.com; 282 Th Chai Khong; hlunch & dinner Isan culture. Uncle Ho's House (4km);
9
12 EATING
Indochina Market.............................12 C2

rung M
Airport (16km); Sakon
with advance notice) On weekends and school holi- Nakhon (94km) Th Ru
amjit Luk Tan............................................13 B2
days this place can organise a ponglang show NAKHON PHANOM 2 O-Hi-O............................................14 B2

(2000B) with local students, who keep all the
cash to put towards their studies.
Getting There & Away
Swngthew to Loei (30B, 1 hours) depart
about every 15 minutes from a stop on Rte
201, while nine buses (36B, 45 minutes) leave
o%iro}
pop 31,700
In Sanskrit-Khmer, Nakhon Phanom means
city of hills. Unfortunately, theyre all across
the river in Laos. But that doesnt stop you from
admiring them. With fabulous views across the
Mekong to the undulating, sugarloaf peaks on
Th Bam
Tex-Italia Restaurant........................15 B2
1 Th Nitt
Vietnamese Food Shop.....................16 B2
aya
TRANSPORT Tha
3 Vehicle Fer r y Khaek
999 VIP..........................................(see 17)
20
To North By North-East Tours (600m);
Wat Maha That (800m); Mae Nam
10 3
Bus Terminal....................................17 A2
Ferry Terminal..................................18 C2
Khong Grand View Hotel (1.3km); Hat Sai Koo Yong Long................................19 C2
Thong (1.4km); Tourist Police (1.7km); Nakhon Sangpatip.......................................(see 17)
Phanom River View Hotel (1.8km); Wat Noi Thai Airways International Agent......20 B3
Pho Kham (4.5km); That Phanom (59km) 7
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
512 N A K H O N P HA N O M P R O V I N C E N a k h o n P h a n o m
the bt is a colourful triptych done in mod-
ern style.
The bt at Wat Noi Pho Kham (Th Si Thep; hday-
light hours), just off the highway bypass south
of town (turn at the lumberyard), has bas-
relief carvings inside and out and a 12m-tall
Buddha in the subduing mara posture sitting
on top.
The Vietnamese community in Ban Na
Chok, about 4km west of town, has restored
the simple wooden house where Ho Chi Minh
lived (192829) and planned his resistance
movement. There are a few more Ho Chi Minh
displays, some labelled in English, around the
block from Uncle Hos House (donations appreciated;
hdaylight hours) at the Friendship Village (donations
appreciated; h8am-5pm) community centre.
From February to April Hat Sai Thong
(Golden Sand Beach) rises just south of the
Mae Nam Khong Grand View Hotel.
If you are coming from or heading to the
north along Hwy 212, take a short break at
Nam Song Si, 45km north, where the greenish
water of Huay Songkhram meets the muddy
brown Mekong. The highway road sign calls
this the Two Bi-Coloured River.
Sleeping
First Hotel (%0 4251 1253; 16 Th Si Thep; r 160-300B;
a) Set back slightly from the road, this bare-
bones place has little decoration, but at least
offers some peace and quiet.
Grand Hotel (%0 4251 1526; 210 Th Si Thep; r 190-
390B; a) Grand is a popular euphemism for
modest among Thailands budget hotels.
This is no duff option though, and while the
interior is rather spartan, potted plants and
animal sculptures bring a lick of colour and
the rooms are perfectly comfortable.
Windsor Hotel (%0 4251 1946; 272 Th Bamrung
Meuang; r 250-400B; ai) Housed in a rather
intimidating concrete block, this is neverthe-
less one of the friendlier options in town. The
rooms are functional and the fan rooms are
a bit noisy but remain quite good value.
Sritep Hotel (%0 4251 2395; 197 Th Si Thep; r 320-
500B; a) This twin-towered hotel is one of the
few in town that sits squarely in the midrange.
Rooms are ever so ordinary, but its not bad
for the night. The citys only cinema shares
the parking lot.
Mae Nam Khong Grand View Hotel (%0 4251
3564; www.mgvhotel.com; 527 Th Sunthon Wijit; r 700-
2600B; ai) The towns former chart-topping
hotel has a little less pizzazz than the Nakhon
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com
Phanom River View, but since its also priced a
little bit less you cant really go wrong. Theres
a pleasant terrace overlooking the river, plus
the staff are helpful and polite.
Nakhon Phanom River View Hotel (%0 4252 2333;
Th Sunthon Wijit; r 900-2700B; ais) This place
is a bit of a hike south of the centre, but its
the towns glossiest hotel, with fresh, well-ap-
pointed rooms and the usual business-class
amenities. All rooms deliver on the names
promise.
Eating
There are plenty of restaurants along the river,
but most of the better eateries are back in the
centre of town.
Indochina Market (Th Sunthon Wijit; hbreakfast,
lunch & dinner) The food courts 2nd-floor ter-
race has choice seats that frame the mountain
views.
Luk Tan (no roman-script sign; %0 4251 1456; 83 Th
Bamrung Meuang; buffet 69-89B; hdinner) This quaint
little spot oozes quirky charm, with tables
made from old sewing machines and a care-
fully constructed model train built into the
wall. Quirkiest of all is the food; an American
home-style buffet featuring mashed potatoes
and a salad bar.
Vietnamese Food Shop (no roman-script sign; %0
4251 2087; 165 Th Thamrong Prasit; dishes 25-100B; hlunch
& dinner) With coloured lights and Ronaldinho
posters, this little corner shop takes a half-
hearted attempt at being fashionable, but the
food stays classic, serving the same family
recipes, including namnuang (assemble-it-
yourself pork spring rolls) and spicy Thai
salads, for over 50 years now.
O-Hi-O (%0 4252 1300; 24 Th Fuang Nakhon; dishes
30-220B; hdinner; ai) This airy bar/eatery
has plenty of wood, food (the usual Thai, Isan
and Chinese), rivers of whisky and movies on
the big screen.
Tex-Italia Restaurant (%0 4251 5516; Th Thamrong
Prasit; dishes 55-289B; hlunch & dinner; a) What
does a Thai woman who fell in love with
Italian food while cooking in Bangkok and
then moved to Texas do when she returns
home? Open this little restaurant-bar. There
are no culinary fireworks, but some of the
East-meets-West mergers are fun; and the
pool table is free.
Pak Nam Chaiburi (no roman-script sign;
%0 4257 3037; dishes 25-200B; hlunch & dinner) This
bucolic restaurant right at the confluence of
Nam Song Si serves fish on a shaky wooden
lonelyplanet.com
deck. The food is fine and the scenery is
superb.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Thai Airways doesnt fly to Nakhon Phanom,
but the THAI agent (%0 4251 2494; 85 Th Nittaya;
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun) sells tickets for
PB Air (%in Bangkok 0 2261 0222; www.pbair.com), which
flies daily to/from Bangkok (one way 2905B).
BOAT
Between 8am and 6pm, you can catch a boat
(one way 60B) from the ferry terminal (Th Sun-
thon Wijit) across the Mekong to Tha Khaek
in Laos. Thirty-day visas are usually available
at the border.
BUS
Nakhon Phanoms bus terminal (%0 4251 3444)
is east of the town centre, down Th Fuang
Nakhon. From here buses head to Nong
Khai (ordinary/air-con 160/205B, five hours,
nine daily until 11.30am); Udon Thani (or-
dinary/air-con 90/164B, five hours, 17 daily)
via Sakon Nakhon (ordinary/air-con 47/85B,
1 hours); and Mukdahan (ordinary/air-con
52/94B, two hours, hourly) via That Phanom
(ordinary/air-con 27/49B, one hour).
999 VIP (%0 4251 1403) and Sangpatip (%0
4252 0411), both with terminals at the airport,
together send three VIP buses to Bangkok
(32/24 seat 664/820B, 13 hours) daily.
Getting Around
Tk-tk drivers want 100B per hour, which is
about how long it takes to visit Ban Na Chok
and Wat Noi Pho Kham. A better bet is rent-
ing a bike from Koo Yong Long (%0 4251 1118; 363
Th Sunthon Wijit; per hr/day 10/50B; h6.30am-7pm).
RENU NAKHON
giI)o%i
The village of Renu Nakhon is known for
cotton weaving and there are many places
around the village where you can watch the
process. The local Phu Thai, a Thai tribe sepa-
rate from mainstream Siamese and Lao, make
and market their designs here. The finished
products are sold in the big handicrafts market
on the grounds of Wat Phra That Renu Nakhon
(hdaylight hours), as well as at a string of nearby
shops. The temples 36m tall that is a replica
of the second chedi built in That Phanom and
is considered very holy.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
N A K H O N P HA N O M P R O V I N C E R e n u N a k h o n 513
During local festivals, the Phu Thai some-
times hold folk-dance performances called
fwn lm phu thai, which celebrate their
unique heritage.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The turn-off to Renu Nakhon is only 8km
north of That Phanom, so you could visit
Renu on the way there from Nakhon Ph-
anom or even make it a day trip from That
Phanom. From Rte 212, its 7km west on Rte
2031 (20B by tk-tk from the junction). To
charter a tk-tk from That Phanom costs
around 150B, though the price will rise if you
want them to show you around and bring
you back.
THAT PHANOM
Tk^=ro}
Towering over the small town, the spire of
the colossal Lao-style chedi of Wat Phra That
Phanom is one of the regions most emblem-
atic symbols and one of the great flagpoles of
Isan identity. In comparison, the little town
of That Phanom itself is rather forgettable.
Divided neatly in two, with the older half to
the east, next to the river, it does, however,
make a relatively peaceful base for exploring
the wider region.
Information
Jane Internet (45 Th Phanom Phanarak; per hr 20B;
h8am-9pm)
Siam Commercial Bank (Th Chayangkun; h8.30am-
3.30pm Mon-Fri) Offers an ATM, foreign exchange and
Moneygram wire-transfer services.
Sights
WAT PHRA THAT PHANOM
;yfritTk^=ro}
Wat Phra That Phanom (Th Chayangkun; h5am-8pm) is
a potent and beautiful symbol of Isan identity
and has at its hub a that, or Lao-style chedi,
more impressive than any in present-day Laos
and highly revered by Buddhists all over Thai-
land. The that is 53m high and a five-tiered,
16kg gold umbrella laden with precious gems
adds 4m more to the top. Surrounding it is a
cloister filled with Buddha images and behind
the wat is a shady park.
Many Thais truly believe the legend that
the Lord Buddha came to Thailand and di-
rected that one of his breast bone relics be
enshrined in a chedi to be built on this very
site and so it was, eight years after his death
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
514 N A K H O N P HA N O M P R O V I N C E T h a t P h a n o m Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book
l o n eaccommodation
l y p l a n e t . c o monline at lonelyplanet.com S A K O N N A K H O N P R O V I N C E S a k o n N a k h o n 515

CENTRAL THAT PHANOM 0

0 0.1 miles
200 m Niyana Guest House (%0 4254 0880; 65/14 Soi 33; r Only Thai and Lao citizens are permitted
To Renu Nakhon
140B) The towns backpacker original has moved to cross the river to/from Laos here.
A (15km); Nakhon B C D into new digs, but its just as chaotic as ever. Un-
Phanom (56km)
To Kritsada Rimkhong
doubtedly the friendliest and most helpful place
SAKON NAKHON

Mekong River
13 Resort (250m);
Lao Market (300m)
in town, its little more than someones house
with an English school on the ground floor
1

Soi 29
11
with all the good and bad that goes with that.
Rooms are spartan, but kind of cosy; bathrooms
PROVINCE
LAOS
are shared. Bike rental costs 40B per day. Many famous forest temples sit deep in the Phu
Soi 31 Saeng Thong Rimkhong Guest House (no roman- Pan Mountain range that runs across Sakon
10
Th Rubbung 6 script sign; %0 4254 1396; 507 Th Rimkhong; r 250B) This Nakhon Province, and among Sakon Nakhons
so-so place steals the centre ground, with less famous sons are two of the most highly revered

Th Rimkhong
Soi 33
INFORMATION
4 Jane Internet............................1 C2 sparkle than Kritsada and less atmosphere than monks in Thai history. Both Ajahn Man Bhu-
5
Old Shops
Siam Commercial Bank............2 A3 Niyana. Its fine for a nights sleep though. ridatto and his student, Ajahn Fan Ajaro, were
2 212
3 Th Kuson Ratchadamnoen
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sawasdee Guest House (no roman-script sign; %0 ascetic thdong monks who were thought to
1 Lao Arch of Victory..................3 B2
Replica of Original Satoob........4 A2
4254 0148; off Th Lan Talat; r 400B; a) This brand-new have attained high levels of proficiency in Vi-
Floating
Wat Phra That Phanom...........5 A2 place just a stones throw from the bus stop has passana meditation and are widely recognised
Th Chayangkun

a motel-style strip of well-appointed rooms. among Thais as having been arahants (fully
Th Phanom Phanarak

Restaurant
SLEEPING
Soi 37
Niyana Guest House................6 C2 Kritsada Rimkhong Resort (%0 4254 0088; www enlightened beings). Although born in Ubon
Saeng Thong Rimkhong Guest
Market 7
House..................................7 C3
.kritsadaresort.com; 90-93 Th Rimkhong; r 400-600B; a) Ratchathani, Ajahn Man spent most of his later
Sawasdee Guest House............8 A3 The shiny rooms at this resort are a mix of years at Wat Pa Sutthawat in Sakon Nakhon.
2
EATING sterile modern rooms and traditional wood-
9
Th Lan Talat Go On Night............................9 A3 style buildings, which are more atmospheric SAKON NAKHON
3 Night Market.........................10 A2
Riverside Restaurants.............11 C1 outside than in. Many of the rooms are colos- ld]o%i
To Mukdahan (51km);
8 sal and have separate sitting rooms. Call and pop 68,000
TRANSPORT
Uban Ratchathani (215km)
Bus Terminal..........................12 A3 someone will pick you up at the bus stop. Workaday Sakon Nakhon is primarily an
Th Rawpaw - Guanyai
12
Swngthew to Nakhon
Phanom.............................13 A1
Go On Night (no roman-script sign; %0 4254 1014; 419 agricultural market and Th Ratpattana is
Th Chayangkun; dishes 50-200B; hlunch & dinner) There chock-a-block with shops selling farming
is no English menu, but most ingredients are equipment. And though the city centre is the
in the 5th century BC. Some historians date The short road between Wat Phra That Ph- on display so just point and let them serve it, usual concrete mess, neighbourhoods on the
the first construction, a short satoob (theres a anom and the old town on the Mekong River Thai or Chinese style. They dont stop stir- fringes are full of old wooden houses, and this
replica of it in a pond in front of the temple) to passes a large Lao arch of victory, which is a mini- frying until 3am or 4am. is where you will find the two historic temples
the 6th century BC. Modifications have been ature version of the arch on Th Lan Xang in Every evening a small night market (h3-9pm) of Wat Phra That Choeng Chum and Wat Pa
routine since then, but there have been four Vientiane (which leads to Vientianes Wat That takes over Th Robbung. Also come night- Sutthawat, the towns main attractions.
major constructions. The first that was 24m Luang). The short stretch of Th Kuson Ratch- fall, lots of small riverside eateries (Th Rimkhong),
tall and went up in the 1st century BC, and it adamnoen between the arch and the river is in- perched on stilts and ablaze in fairy lights, Information
was raised to 47m in 1690 youll find copies teresting, with a smattering of French-Chinese open their doors between the pier and Krit- Bangkok Bank (Th Makkhalai, Lotus Department Store;
of this design all over Isan. The current design architecture that is reminiscent of old Vientiane sada Rimkhong Resort. They are all much of a h10am-8pm) Has an ATM and exchange services (cash
was built in 1941, but it toppled during heavy or Saigon and many shops selling Vietnamese muchness foodwise although some turn the only). Plenty of banks in the town centre keep regular
rains in 1975 and was rebuilt in 1978. A large foodstuffs. A couple of the old shop interiors karaoke machine up louder than others so banking hours.
museum (h8.30am-4pm) tells both the legend are nearly museum-quality timeless. have a wander and pick your place. CT Com (no roman-script sign; 1871/12-13 Th Prem Prida;
and history of the that, and also displays per hr 15B; h8.30am-10pm) Surf the web here.
a hodge-podge collection of pottery, gongs, Festivals & Events Getting There & Away Police station (%1155; Th Makkhalai)
statues, US presidential commemorative coins During the That Phanom Festival in February From the bus terminal on the south side of Post office (Th Charoen Meuang; h8.30am-4.30pm
and many other old items. visitors descend from all over Isan and Laos town there are regular services to Ubon Rat- Mon-Fri, to 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)
to pay respect to the that. The streets fill with chathani (ordinary/air-con 102/178B, 4
OTHER SIGHTS market stalls, many top mw lam troupes per- hours, hourly) via Mukdahan (ordinary/air- Sights
Hundreds of Lao merchants cross the river form and the town hardly sleeps for 10 days. con 28/50B, one hour), Sakon Nakhon (ordi- WAT PA SUTTHAWAT
for a market (h8.30am-noon Mon & Thu) north of nary/air-con 38/68B, 1 hours, hourly) and ;yfxjkl=mTk;kl
the pier. Exotic offerings include Lao herbal Sleeping & Eating Nakhon Phanom (ordinary/air-con 27/49B, The grounds of Wat Pa Sutthawat, on the
medicines, forest roots and animal skins. Few tourists stick around town very long, so one hour, five daily). Nakhon Phanom also has southwestern outskirts of town, are essentially
The maddest haggling occurs just before the there are only a handful of sleeping options. regular swngthew services (36B, 90 minutes, a shrine to two of Thailands best-known
market closes, when Thai buyers try to take During the February That Phanom Festival every 10 minutes). Up to six air-con buses go monks. Most famous of all is Ajahn Man Bhu-
advantage of the Laos reluctance to carry accommodation rates soar and rooms are to Bangkok (588B, 10 hours) daily, including ridatto who died here in 1949. The final rest-
unsold merchandise back home. booked out a month in advance. a 24-seat VIP service (800B, 5.50pm). ing place of Ajahn Mans personal effects, the

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
516 S A K O N N A K H O N P R O V I N C E S a k o n N a k h o n lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S A K O N N A K H O N P R O V I N C E S a k o n N a k h o n 525

SAKON NAKHON 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
(Continued from page 516) Somkiat Hotel (%0 4271 1740; 1348 Th Kamjat Phai; r
22 Nong Han 200-400B; a) The Somkiat is no beauty queen,
A B C D

8 To Wat Phra That Narai Jaeng
complex, the five-level sandstone prang is miss- but for just a few baht more it takes the tiara
INFORMATION 1 Waeng (5km); Airport (9km); Ajahn
Fan Ajaro Museum (40km); Nakhon
ing most of its top, but still features a reclining from Araya. The fan rooms in the main build-
Bangkok Bank.......................1 B1 6
CT Com...............................2 B2 Phanom (87km); Udon Thani (160km) Vishnu lintel over its northern portico and a ing have the hot water turned on only during
1 Police Station.......................3 D1 Th Sa
i Saw 5
ang
dancing Shiva over its eastern one. This is not a the winter. The air-con rooms at the back are
Post Office...........................4 B1
4 Ming
Meuang
particularly evocative temple, but its the most motel style and fronted by carports.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Aquarium............................5 D1
Th
Ch
Field complete Khmer ruin in the province. Dusit Hotel (%0 4271 1198; www.dusitsakhon.com;
Th M
City Monument....................6 B1 21 aro
en ak khala
3
To get here by public transport catch 1784 Th Yuwaphattana; r 400-700B; ai) This old-
Me i

tana
Fishing Boats.......................7 D2
Sa Pan Kom..........................8 B1 Th
ua
ng swngthew 3 (8B) heading north on Th Rat- timer has the loveliest lobby and cheeriest
18
pat

Sawat
Wat Phra That Choeng Th Rat
Ka
mj
at
Saphang pattana from the bus terminal, get off at Talat staff in town. The most expensive rooms
Chum..............................9 D2 Ph 23 Thong
Ban That Nawaeng and walk 500m north. have some character built in while the rest are

em
Nong ai Park

ng
Samon

s
ukka
10
more ordinary, but each price category offers

Th Reua
SLEEPING

Th S
Araya 2.............................10 C2
Dusit Hotel.........................11 B2
ana
15 7 OTHER SIGHTS good value. The restaurant is pretty good and
2 11
The city monument (Th Ratpattana) at the theres free wi-fi in the lobby.
att

MJ.....................................12 B3 17 13 9
Prida
Th Yuwaph

Somkiat Hotel....................13 C2 Nong

Han northwestern corner of town was obviously MJ (%0 4273 3771; 399/2 Th Khu Meuang; r 630-3360B;
rem

EATING inspired by Vientianes Patuxai or That Ph- ai) Prices have dropped over the years

uk
Th P

as
Green Corner ....................14 B3
anoms gate. The arch-like structure consists making this place pretty good value, and the
i Ph
Khrua Kwan Im (Jae)..........15 C2 2
Night Plaza.........................16
Talat Suanluk Night
B3 Municipal
Th Ja
of four thick cement pillars standing over a facilities (restaurant, cocktail lounge, pub,
22 Market Hospital
Market...........................17 B2 14
em Th R
bowl filled with naga. caf, massage, snooker club and karaoke) earn
kas 19 awp
Ya Yee Suki Shabu.............18 C2
Th
Suk Meu
ang Across the park from the monument, little a few extra brownie points as well. If you are
SHOPPING Sa Pan Kom (Khmer Bridge; Th Sai Sawang) was once in the mood to part with a few extra baht, the
OTOP Center.....................19 B3 16
part of a Khmer road leading to Wat Phra superior rooms are well worth the extra.
3 Th Khu
Meuang That Narai Jaeng Waeng.
TRANSPORT
12
Eating
Th Sako

213 999 VIP...........................20

Air-Con Buses to Udon
A3 Along the eastern and northern edges of
Thani & Khon Kaen.....21 B1 town is Nong Han, Thailands largest natural Khrua Kwan Im (Jae) (no roman-script sign; %0 4271
l Na K

To Phu Phan To Wat Pa Bus Terminal....................22 B3

20 National Park
(24km)
Sutthawat To That Phanom
Phu Sakon.......................23 C2
lake. Fishermen, who tie up their boats be- 1599; Th Prem Prida; dishes 25-50B; hbreakfast & lunch)
(68km)
ae

(200m)
hind Saphang Thong Park, will take you out This simple place distinguishes itself by offer-
sightseeing, including a stop to visit the monks ing veggie versions of many Isan favourites,
Ajahn Man Museum (donations appreciated; h8am-6pm), Buddha had a meeting. To view the prang you on Ko Don Sawan (Paradise Island), the lakes largest like lap (a super-spicy salad).
bizarrely looks a bit like a modern Christian must enter through the adjacent whan. If the island. The going rate is 500B for as long as a Ya Yee Suki Shabu (no roman-script sign; %0 4273
church, with arches and etched-glass windows. door to the chedi is locked, ask one of the monks tank of gas lasts; the Dusit Hotel can help make 2011; 349 Th Charon Meuang; buffet 89B; hlunch Sat & Sun,
A bronze image of Ajahn Man, surrounded by to open it; theyre used to having visitors. arrangements. Dont swim in the lake: its in- dinner daily) Walk the buffet line at this colourful
flowers, sits on a pedestal at the back Also on the grounds are a Lan Xangera fested with liver flukes, which can cause a nasty Chinese place and cook up your creations at
Ajahn Lui Chanthasaro, who died in 1989, bt and a whan built in the cruciform shape liver infection known as opisthorchiasis. your table, or order some scrumptious Thai
was one of Ajahn Mans most famous students reminiscent of Lanna styles found in northern The freshwater aquarium (%0 4271 1447; Th Sai and Chinese food off the menu.
and King Rama IX designed the chedi that Thailand. Luk nmt (spherical ordination- Sawang; admission free; h8.30am-4.30pm) at the Sakon Green Corner (%0 4271 1073; 1773 Th Ratpattana;
holds the Ajahn Lui Museum (donations appreciated; precinct markers that look like cannonballs Nakhon Fishery Station displays fish from dishes 35-250B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; a) The
h8am-6pm). Ajahn Luis likeness, also sur- and are buried under the regular boundary Nong Han, as well as the Mekong and Song- first choice for a fix of farng food really dis-
rounded by flowers, is in wax. markers that surround most bts) are lined khram rivers. There is a pitiful little crocodile tinguishes itself with its Thai and Isan choices
Both museums showcase all the monks up near the whan. The wax castles carved pond nearby. mao berry juice, Chiang Mai pork sausage,
worldly possessions, as well as photographs during the Buddhist Rains Retreat (Buddhist spicy catfish salad and weve never seen
and descriptions of their lives; Ajahn Mans Lent) resemble the top of the west gate, and Festivals & Events ants egg omelettes on an English-language
displays, signed in English, give a good de- next to the east gate is the base for an original The end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat (Buddhist menu before.
scription of a typical monks life. Khmer Shivalingam (phallic object). Lent) in late October/November is fervently Sakon Nakhons biggest night market,
celebrated in Sakon, with the carving and dis- the Night Plaza (Th Khu Meuang), has an excellent
WAT PHRA THAT CHOENG CHUM WAT PHRA THAT NARAI JAENG WAENG play of wax castles in Ming Meuang Field the selection of food, but its all bagged up for
;yfritTk^=g(b'(=} ;yfritTk^=okikpINc&'c;' highlight. The festival also features demon- takeaway and the action starts to fade around
The most visible highlight at Wat Phra That Choeng About 5km west of town at Ban That, this wat strations of muay-boron, the old, bare-knuckle 8pm. If you want to sit down and stay out late,
Chum (Stupa of the Gathering of the Footprints; Th Reuang Sawat; (known as Phra That Nawaeng, a contraction style of Thai boxing. hit the Talat Suanluk Night Market (Th Tor Pattana) in
hdaylight hours) is the 24m-high Lao-style chedi, of the words Narai Jaeng Waeng) has a 10th- to the thick of the citys nightlife district.
which was erected during the Ayuthaya period 11th-century Khmer prang in the early Bap- Sleeping
over a smaller 11th-century Khmer prang. It uan style. Originally part of a Khmer-Hindu Araya 2 (%0 4271 1054; 354 Th Prem Prida; r 150-250B) Shopping
was built over four Buddha footprints where, This basic concrete bolthole is inching towards OTOP Center (%0 4271 1533; Th Sukkasem; h8.30am-
legend has it, four different incarnations of Lord (Continued on page 525) decrepit, but it wont break your budget. 5pm) Has a good selection of natural-dyed,
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
526 YA S OT H O N & M U K D A HA N P R O V I N C E S
hand-woven fabrics and clothes dyed with
indigo and other natural colourants. You
can also pick up mao-berry and black-ginger
wines here and in many other shops, hotels
and restaurants.
Getting There & Away
Phu Sakon (% 0 4271 2259; 332/3 Th Sukkasem;
h8.30am-5pm) is the agent for PB Air (%in Bang-
kok 0 2261 0222; www.pbair.com), which flies once or
twice daily to/from Bangkok (one way 2745B,
one hour).
Buses serve Ubon Ratchathani (ordinary/
air-con 125/225B, five hours, eight daily), That
Phanom (ordinary/air-con 38/68B, 1 hours,
14 daily), Nakhon Phanom (ordinary/air-con
47/85B, 1 hours, hourly), Udon Thani (or-
dinary/air-con 78/109B, 3 hours, every half-
hour), Khon Kaen (ordinary/air-con 92/166B,
four hours, five daily) and Bangkoks northern
bus terminal (air-con/32-seat VIP 360/540B,
11 hours, every half-hour).
There are also departures for Udon Thani
(every half-hour) and Khon Kaen (six daily)
from the Esso petrol station north of the bus
terminal, while 999 VIP (%0 4271 2860) has 24-
seat buses to Bangkok (715B, 8.30am, 7.30pm,
7.45pm) from its office on the road out of
town.
AROUND SAKON NAKHON
Ajahn Fan Ajaro Museum
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Ajahn Fan Ajaro, a famous student of Ajahn
Man, lived at Wat Pa Udom Somphon in his
home district of Phanna Nikhom from 1963
until his death in 1987. His museum (donations ap-
preciated; h8am-5pm), inside a chedi with a triple-
layer lotus design, commemorates his life with
the usual display of relics, photos and worldly
possessions. Unlike Wat Pa Sutthawat, which
has become a wt thaw (tourist wat), this is
still a strict forest meditation monastery, so
only those with a serious interest in Buddhism
should walk back to the adjacent monastery.
The museum is 40km from Sakon Nakhon
toward Udon Thani on Hwy 22, then 1.5km
north of Ban Phanna on Th Srisawadwilai.
Phu Phan National Park
v=mpkocsj'(k^b#)rko
Swathed in forest and tumbling over the pretty
Phu Phan mountains, Phu Phan National Park
(%08 1263 5029, reservations 0 2562 0760; free admission;
h24hr) remains relatively undeveloped and
Ya s o t h o n lonelyplanet.com
isolated its no surprise that the area once
provided cover for Thai resistance fighters
in WWII and Peoples Liberation Army of
Thailand (PLAT) guerrillas in the 1970s. Tham
Seri Thai (Seri Thai Cave) was used by the Thai
Seri (Thai underground resistance; see p35)
during WWII as an arsenal and mess hall. As
well as being a stomping ground for barking
deer, monitor lizards and monkeys, the 645-
sq-km park also hosts a few elephants.
There are two main places to visit. Pha Nang
Moem is a vista point just 700m from the visi-
tor centre and you can climb down to Lan Sao E
plateau just below it. Nam Tok Kam Hom, one of
four petite falls along a 600m stretch of stream
(the water is only from August to October), is
9km north (near Thailands largest kilometre
pillar). Seldom-visited Tang Pee Parn natural
rockbridge can be reached by 4WD. A park
guide is recommended for trekking deep into
the gorgeous mountains in the south end of
the park; if you want to do it yourself, discuss
your plans at the headquarters before setting
out. For spending the night, there is a camp
site (per person 30B, 3-person tent hire 150B) and eight
bungalows (4 people 500B) available.
Both of the principal attractions sit right
off Rte 213 and any Kalasin-bound bus (or-
dinary/air-con 20/25B, 45 minutes, every 40
minutes) from Sakon Nakhon will drop you
off or shuttle you between them.
Talat Klang Dong Sang Kaw
^]kfd]k'f'lihk'%hv
Twenty-five kilometres past Phu Phan Na-
tional Park on Rte 213, Talat Klang Dong Sang
Kaw (Sang Kaw Jungle Market) stocks custard
apples and other foods grown on small village
farms, but its best known for the products
gathered sustainably in the surrounding for-
est, like fruits, roots, honey, insects, bird nests
(for good luck well, not for the birds) and
mushrooms. There are also locally produced
whiskies and mao-berry wines.
YASOTHON &
MUKDAHAN PROVINCES
YASOTHON
pFlTi
pop 23,000
Yasothon Province has little of interest to
the average traveller, though people looking
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com YA S OT H O N & M U K D A HA N P R O V I N C E S
to nose a little deeper into Isan culture will
want to peek at Phra That Kong Khao Noi
and purchase some pillows in Ban Si Tham.
The provincial town of Yasothon saves all of
its fireworks for the annual Rocket Festival,
which completes a trifecta of Isan icons. The
city has nothing to offer outside the official
whizz-bang period of late May and neither
looks nor acts like a capital city. In fact, it
barely feels like a city at all.
Sights
PHRA THAT KONG KHAO NOI
ritTk^=djv'*hk;ohvp
A rather sinister myth surrounds Phra That
Kong Khao Noi (Small Rice Basket Stupa; hdaylight
hours), a brick-and-stucco chedi dating from
the late Ayuthaya period found along Hwy
23 about 9km out of town towards Ubon.
According to one legend (which is taught
to school children around the country as an
example of why its important to keep your
emotions in check) a young, and no doubt
ravenously hungry, farmer who had toiled all
morning in the hot sun murdered his mother
here when she brought his lunch to the fields
late and in the smallest of sticky-rice baskets.
The farmer, eating his lunch over his mothers
dead body, realised that the small basket actu-
ally contained more sticky rice than he could
manage to eat. To atone for his misdeed, he
built a chedi.
Or perhaps not. Others say it was built
by people who were travelling to Phra That
Phanom to enshrine gold and gems, but got
to Ban Tat Thong and learned they were too
late, so they built this chedi instead.
Further complicating matters, many claim
that the real Small Rice Basket Stupa is a little
further north in the back of Wat Ban Sadow,
located 7km east of Yasothon on Rte 202. All
that remains is the base; when the original
tumbled over shortly after the redeemed sons
death, locals built another petite chedi next
to it.
BAN SI THAN
[hkoLiu{ko
Residents of Ban Si Than cant leave their work
behind when they go to sleep this is a pil-
low-making village. Almost everywhere you
look as you walk through the village (and most
of those surrounding it, too) youll see people
sewing, stuffing or selling mwn kht (pillows
decorated with diamond-grid kht patterns),
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
Ya s o t h o n 527
most famously the triangular mwn khwan
(literally axe pillow). They couldnt possible
meet demand without using machine-made
fabric, but most of the shops in town also
stock some of the old-style hand-woven pil-
lows. Prices here are almost half what youll
pay elsewhere in Thailand, and this is also
one of the few places you can buy them un-
stuffed (yang mi si nn; literally no kapok
inserted), which makes the big ones viable
as souvenirs.
If you want to see monkeys, have someone
point you to Don Ling, 4km out of town at
Ban Tao Hi.
Ban Si Than was set to launch a homestay
programme (%08 7243 2278) when we last stopped
by; call for details. The village is 20km from
Yasothon, then 2.5km south of Rte 202 from
Ban Nikom. Any Amnat Charoen bus can
drop you at the junction (30B, 45 minutes)
where a motorcycle taxi will zip you in for
about 20B.
OTHER SIGHTS
In town, Phra That Phra Anon (Th Wariratchadet;
hdaylight hours), also known as Phra That Ya-
sothon, at Wat Mahathat is a highly venerated
Lao-style chedi. Its said to be more than 1200
years old and to enshrine holy relics of Phra
Anon (Ananda), the Buddhas personal at-
tendant monk and one of his chief disciples.
The scripture hall, dating to the 1840s, sits on
stilts in a pond.
Wat Singh Ta (Th Uthai Rammarith; hdaylight hours)
is rather ordinary, but the block fronting its
south side is a treasure-trove of classic Chinese
shophouses.
Festivals & Events
The Rocket Festival (Bun Bng Fai) rain and fertil-
ity rite is celebrated on the second weekend
of May. Rocket Festivals are held to herald
the rainy season across Isan, but nowhere
as fervently as in Yasothon where it involves
local dances, parades and rocket-launching
contests. The largest rockets, called bng fai
saen, are packed with 120kg of nitrate. Those
whose homemade rockets fail to launch get
tossed in the mud.
Sleeping & Eating
In Town Hotel (no roman-script sign; %0 4571 3007;
614 Th Jangsanit; r 220-380B; a) This place, on the
main road through town, is far enough south
that it almost loses the rights to its name, but
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
528 YA S OT H O N & M U K D A HA N P R O V I N C E S M u k d a h a n Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com YA S OT H O N & M U K D A HA N P R O V I N C E S M u k d a h a n 529

for Yasothon, its far better than the budget
average.
Yasothon Orchid Garden (no roman-script sign; %0
4572 1000; 219 Th Prachasamphan; r 400-450B; ai)
The eye-catching exterior hides some fairly
drab rooms at this newly built place by the
old bus terminal, but it makes a reasonable
midranger.
JP Emerald Hotel (%0 4572 4848; 36 Th Prapa; r 800-
1600B; ai) The lobby is lovely (even with
the tacky plastic greenery) and the rooms
comfy, but they are a bit behind on the up-
keep of everything in between. Still, you could
do a lot worse at these prices and the staff
is at the top of their game. Its at the Roi Et
end of town.
Rim Chi (no roman-script sign; % 0 4571
4597; dishes 50-200B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Enjoy
superb Isan and Thai food and bucolic Chi
River views from either the shady terrace or
your own thatched-roof raft. Its 700m west
of Krung Thai Bank.
For some more colourful eats, head to
the dually misnamed Night Barza (Th Jangsanit;
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner), on the north end of
downtown, or the proper night market (Th Wari-
ratchadet), one block north.
centre and on weekends, when the market
really kicks off, youll wonder how the lo-
cals manage to find time to do anything but
trawl the Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai and Lao
stalls.
The December 2006 opening of the Thai-
Lao Friendship Bridge 2 formalised Mukda-
hans status as a trade hub, but the city has
not gone bridge crazy like Nong Khai did
when that Mekong span was planned, and
Savannakhet has reaped most of the economic
reward.
Information
Bangkok Bank (Hwy 212, Lotus Department Store;
h10am-8pm) Changes cash only, but many banks in the
centre of town open regular banking hours and exchange
travellers cheques.
Huanam Hotel (%0 4261 1137; 36 Th Samut Sak-
darak; per hr 30B; h6am-10pm) Check your email here.
It sometimes stays open later than 10pm.
Immigration office (%0 4261 1074; 2 Th Song Nang
Sathit; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Visa
extensions are available here.
Main post office (Th Phitak Santirat; h8.30am-
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)
Police station (%1155; Th Phitak Santirat)
a glass-walled whan, and not one, but two value in a good location. Mountain bikes are
small-sized copies of Phra That Phanom. available for rent per day for 100B.
Kimjekcin Hotel (%0 4263 1041; 40/5 Th Phitak Ph-
Festivals anomkhet; r 250-350B; a) This travelling-salesper-
The Mukdahan Red Cross Fair, held from 9 to 15 sons favourite is completely ordinary, except
January in the field fronting the Provincial for the low prices. Rooms at the back have a
Hall, is a chance to see the dances and clothing limited view of the lake.
of Mukdahans eight ethnic groups, though Submukda Grand Hotel (%0 4263 3444; 72 Th Samut
this aspect has been de-emphasised in recent Sakdarak; r 500B; a) This shiny new tower was
years in favour of a more ordinary carnival erected in 2006 to cash in on the expected
and trade fair. rise in tour-bus business that the bridge might
bring. Rooms are boxy, but theyre good.
Sleeping Mukdahan Grand Hotel (%0 4261 2020; 78 Th Song
Bantomkasen Hotel (no roman-script sign; %0 4261 Nang Sathit; r 900-2500B; a) A little less Grand
1235; 25/2 Th Samut Sakdarak; r 140-250B; a) From than the Palace, this upmarket outfit neverthe-
the outside this place looks just like your less offers high standards (a swimming pool
usual concrete block, but louvred doors and is planned) and some of the most cheerful
wooden floors give it some back-in-the-day staff on the circuit. The restaurant sometimes
charm. And, if you dont want to squat on serves Phu Thai cuisine, though it differs very
the pot, have a look at several rooms before little from regular Isan food.
taking a key. Ploy Palace Hotel (%0 4263 1111; www.ploypalace
Huanam Hotel (%0 4261 1137; 36 Th Samut Sak- .com; 40 Th Phitak Phanomkhet; r 1050-3000B; ais)
darak; r 150-320B; ai) At first glance you might With business coming through at a trickle,
think the posted prices are a bait-and-switch rooms at this executive sleepeasy are good
ploy. It turns out the rooms just arent quite as value. Theres plenty of marble and wood for
slick as the lobby. They are, nonetheless, good that swanky feel, a decent spread of creature
CENTRAL MUKDAHAN 0
0 0.2 miles
500 m

Getting There & Away Sights To Nakhon To Thai-Lao Friendship

Until a new bus terminal is built most One of the most oddly out-of-place landmarks Phanom
(105km)
Bridge (5km); Kaeng
Kabao (25km)
buses stop at random points around town. in all of Thailand, Ho Kaeo Mukdahan (%0 4263

Mekon
Th Sam Highway 12)
Only Khorat (ordinary/air-con 169/220B, 3211; Th Samut Sakdarak; admission 20B; h8am-6pm) is a

(Old
five hours, 14 daily) buses and 999 VIP (%0 65m-tall tower built for the 50th anniversary

rancha
Lotus

g Riv
Department
4571 2965) to Bangkok (32/24 seat 449/595B, of King Rama IXs ascension to the throne. Store

i Kongn
8pm/8.30pm) use the current terminal on The nine-sided base has a good museum with 1

er
Th Rattanakhet. Most regular air-con rides displays (labelled in English) on typical Isan

ae
to Bangkok (350B, nine hours, 26 daily) leave village life and the eight ethnic groups living

Th W
from two spots near the Night Barza: one in the province. There are great views and a

Th Kae
Wat Si

iwit S
Provincial

Th Phitak Santirat
18 Hall Mongkhon
on Hwy 23 and one just north of it on Th few more historical displays in The 360 of Nua

u ra k
w Kin
Wariratchadet. Khon Kaen (ordinary/air-con Pleasure in Mukdahan by the Mekong room

Th

an
na
70/155B, 3 hours, nine daily) buses stop up at the 50m level. The ball on the top holds

Yu
10 2

d
19 To
Lak Meuang 8 15

Ta
500m south of the old terminal, while Ubon a locally revered Buddha image supposedly

pa
(City Pillar) Savannakhet
5

t
7
Ratchathani (ordinary/air-con 50/90B, 1 made of solid silver. 14
h it 16 4
hours, 20 daily) buses are nearby, in front of The 2m tall Phra Chao Ong Luang Buddha Th Song Nang Sat
12 Talat Indojin
Mitsubishi on Hwy 23. image at Wat Si Mongkhon Tai (Th Samron Chaikhongthi;

Th Samu
3

T h Sa
To Ban Phu Nong 11 (Indochina
Fountain Market)
hdaylight hours) is older than the city itself and, (50km) Ba Bung
6

mron
20
9
MUKDAHAN

t Sakda
according to one of the legends associated INFORMATION
khet
Bangkok Bank.........................1 B1 Phanom

Chaik
}=dfkski with it, was unearthed during Mukdahans Immigration Office................ 2 D2 Th Phit
h ak 13

rak

h
Main Post Office................... 3 D2
pop 34,300 construction. The striking ceramic-encrusted

ongt
Police Station.........................4 D2 Kimjekcin Hotel......................9 C3 Night Market..............16 C2 Wat Si
On the banks of the Mekong, directly opposite northern gate was built as a gesture of friend- Sumungwanaram

hi
Mukdahan Grand Hotel....... 10 B2 Wine Wild Why?........17 D3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ploy Palace Hotel................. 11 C2
the Lao city of Savannakhet, Mukdahan is one ship by the citys Vietnamese community in Wat Si Mongkhon Tai........... 5 D2 Submukda Grand Hotel....... 12 D2 TRANSPORT
To Riverside Restaurant (700m);
Bao Phradit (900m)
of the regions prettier towns. Known for its 1954. Wat Yod Kaeo Sivichai.......... 6 D2 999 VIP....................(see 18) To Ho Kaeo
EATING Bus Terminal...............18 A2
riverfront Talat Indojin (Indochina Market), Wat Yod Kaeo Sivichai (Th Samron Chaikhongthi; SLEEPING Ban Kuaytiaw...................... 13 D3 Ferry Terminal............19 D2
Mukdahan (1km);
Mukdahan National
Park (16km)
which stretches under as well as along the hdaylight hours) just down the street stands Bantomkasen Hotel............... 7 D2
Huanam Hotel....................... 8 D2
Kufad.................................. 14 D2
Mum Sabai.......................... 15 D2
Swngthew to Bus
Terminal................ 20 D2
17

riverfront park, Mukdahan is mainly a trade out for having its enormous Buddha inside
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
530 YASOTHON & MUKDAHAN PRO VINCES Around M ukda han
comforts (including a sauna, swimming pool
and rooftop restaurant) and some friendly staff.
For something out of the ordinary, ask for the
9th-floor rooms with beehives on the balcony.
Eating
Ban Kuaytiaw (no roman-script sign; %08 1523 3595;
5/1 Soi Jaeng Waeng; dishes 20-35B; hbreakfast & lunch)
Nothing fancy, but the cooks whip up tasty
kho pht (fried rice) and noodle soups under
a thatch roof.
Wine Wild Why? (% 0 4263 3122; 11 Th
Samron Chaikhongthi; dishes 40-130B; hlunch & dinner)
Housed in an atmospheric wooden building
right on the river, this romantic little spot
serves delicious Thai food and has bags of
character, though the wine list is history. The
sociable owners, transplants from Bangkok,
just add to the charm.
Kufad (no roman-script sign; %0 4261 2252; 36 Th
Samut Sakdarak; dishes 20-150B; hbreakfast, lunch & din-
ner) This spic-and-span Vietnamese caf is
rightly quite popular; and the picture menu
takes the guesswork out of ordering.
Bao Phradit (no roman-script sign; %0 4263 2335;
123/4 Th Samron Chaikhongthi; dishes 20-160B; hdinner)
Its a bit of a yomp south of the centre, but
this is a real Isan restaurant, where crickets
are as likely to be on the daily specials board
as catfish and many ingredients are gathered
from the forest. Its got a peaceful wood-and-
thatch riverside deck.
Riverside Restaurant (%0 4261 1705; 103/4 Th Sam-
ron Chaikhongthi; dishes 65-180B; hlunch & dinner) About
200m before Bao Phradit, this popular spot
offers an eager legion of attentive staff, great
views from a garden terrace and is chock-
a-block with tanks filled with examples of
the kinds of Mekong River fish it has in the
kitchen if you dont want to eat the fish, its
almost worth just coming here for a biology
lesson. The menu lists (in English) the many
styles in which the chefs can cook it up for
you, plus some non-fish dishes.
Mum Sabai (%0 4263 3616; 1 Th Song Nang Sathit;
dishes 35-250B; hlunch & dinner; a) Theres a good
spread of Japanese, Thai, Isan and Western
food and a few combos, such as sirloin steak
with Isan sauce in this spotless diner.
Night market (Th Song Nang Sathit; h5pm-10pm)
Particularly good for eating Isan classics, like
ki yang, sm-tam and deep-fried insects.
Youll also find kho ji (Lao baguette sand-
wiches) and pw-pa (Vietnamese spring
rolls), either fresh (st) or fried (thwt).
Book accommodation online
l o n eatl ylonelyplanet.com
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Getting There & Away
BOAT
Even with the bridge, boats continue to con-
nect Mukdahans ferry terminal (%0 4261 4926)
with Savannakhet, Laos, though the frequency
of the service may soon be reduced. There
are nine ferries daily during the week (9am
to 4.30pm), eight on Saturday (9.30am to
4.30pm) and six on Sunday (9.30am to 3pm).
Tickets cost 50B each way. Thirty-day Lao
visas are available on arrival.
BUS
Mukdahans bus terminal (%0 4261 1421) is on
Rte 212, west of town; to get there from the
centre, take a yellow swngthew (8B) from
Th Phitak Phanomkhet near the fountain.
There are regular buses to Nakhon Phanom
(ordinary/air-con 52/93B, two hours, every 40
minutes) going via That Phanom (ordinary/
air-con 28/50B, one hour), and also service
to Khon Kaen (air-con 155B, 4 hours, every
half-hour), Ubon Ratchathani (ordinary/air-
con 80/144B, 3 hours, every 45 minutes)
and Yasothon (air-con 104B, two hours, 13
daily).
For Bangkoks northern terminal (364B,
10 to 11 hours) there are frequent air-con
departures throughout the day until 8.45pm,
and 999 VIP (%0 4261 1478), with offices at
the terminal, runs a 32-seat VIP bus (571B,
7.20pm) and three 24 seaters (760B, 8.30am,
8pm, 8.15pm).
For Laos, 12 daily buses cross the bridge to
Savannakhet, Laos (45B, 40 minutes), between
7am and 5.30pm.
AROUND MUKDAHAN
Mukdahan National Park
v=mpkocsj'(k^b}=dfkski
Although little more than a speck of a re-
serve at just 48 sq km, hilly Mukdahan Na-
tional Park (%0 4260 1753, reservations 0 2562 0760;
admission 400B; h5am-6pm), also known as Phu
Pha Thoep National Park, has some beauti-
ful landscapes and is scattered with unusual
mushroom-shaped rock formations. The main
rock group, known as both Phu Pha Thoep
and Hin Thoep, sits immediately behind the
visitor centre, and wildflowers bloom from
October to December.
Besides the rock formations there are sev-
eral clifftop views where pretty much only
forest is visible around you and Nam Tok Phu
Tham Phra, a scenic waterfall with a grotto atop
lonelyplanet.com YA S OT H O N & M U K D A HA N P R O V I N C E S
it holding hundreds of small Buddha images.
It only takes a couple of hours on the well-
marked trails to see all of these. Than Fa Mue
Daeng, a cave with 5000-year-old hand paint-
ings, is an 8km walk through the forest and
must be visited with a park guide; you might
see flying squirrels, barking deer, wild boar,
monkeys or civets along the way.
For accommodation, you have a choice of
camping (camp sites per person 30B, 3-person tent hire 80B)
or simple rooms in bungalows (500B) that can
sleep seven.
The park is 15km south of Mukdahan off
Rte 2034. Swngthew (15B, 20 minutes) to
Amphoe Don Tan (which leave from the
bus terminal in Mukdahan every half-hour)
pass the turn-off to the park entrance, and
for an extra 20B the driver will take you the
remaining 1.5km to the visitor centre. The
less frequent Kham Marat buses also pass the
park entrance and the 4pm service is your last
guaranteed ride back to town, though hitching
shouldnt be tough.
Old Highway 212
sov'cvd[hkookFrTb
Old Highway 212 (Nong Ak Na Po Yai), which
never strays far from the Mekong, offers a
lovely look at traditional Thai life and makes
a fantastic bike trip. Leaving Mukdahan youll
follow a long line of fish farms on the river
before passing the 1.6km long Thai-Lao Friend-
ship Bridge 2. This is the widest reach of the
Mekong along the Thai border, so this bridge
stretches over 400m more than the Friendship
Bridge 1.
At the Km 12 mark, where the greenish
Chanode River meets the muddy Mekong (if
youre lucky, youll see men unloading their
fish traps here), is Wat Manophirom (hdaylight
hours), one of Mukdahan Provinces oldest tem-
ples. The original bt, now a whan, was built
in 1756 in Lan Xang style with a bas-relief
front and painted wooden eave brackets. It
holds many ancient Buddha images, including
eight carved into an elephant tusk.
Wat Srimahapo (hdaylight hours), sometimes
called Wat Pho Si, is another 5km north.
Youd never expect its tiny bt to be worth
a look, but inside, elaborately carved beams
hold up the tin roof and interesting naive mu-
rals cover the walls. The Buddhas that greet
you have holes cut over their hearts to receive
blessings, and a couple of long boats are stored
here between races.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
A r o u n d M u k d a h a n 531
After a further 7km youll pass the modern,
glass-walled Church of Our Lady of the Martyrs of
Thailand (hdaylight hours Mon-Sat, 7am mass on Sun),
locally called Wat Song Khan, built in 1995
to commemorate seven Thai Catholics killed
by the police in 1940 for refusing to renounce
their faith. Wax sculptures of the martyrs lie
under glass in back.
Just beyond the church is Kaeng Kabao, a
stretch of rocky shore and islets, turning to
rapids when submerged during the rainy sea-
son. A variety of restaurants have set up on
and along the river here making this a good
place to refuel before riding back to Mukda-
han. During April its waters are clean enough
for swimming and inner-tubing.
Ban Phu
[hko#)
Ban Phu is a quaint village in the shadow of
Phu Jaw Kor Puttakiri where wooden houses
and the Phu Thai dialect still dominate no
matter how boned up you are on your Isan,
Thai or Lao, expect a few verbal trip ups here.
Of all Isans minority groups, the Phu Thai,
who trace their heritage to southern China,
near the Laos and Vietnam border, are known
for having clung closest to their culture. Most
villagers still don traditional duds for festivals
and funerals, and all children wear the old-
style clothes to school every Thursday. This is
a well-known silk- and cotton-weaving village
and youll find a loom under most of the 300
houses. Most women supply mt-mi designs
to meet demand, but the little shop in front of
the temple stocks some traditional designs.
The village homestay programme (%08 9570
8161; per person per day 250B) is designed for large
groups, but all are welcome and Khun Anan,
who speaks some English, can help set you
up. The typical programme is three days and
two nights, including meals, and lets you get
involved in daily life: cooking, weaving and
farming, for example. If you want some ad-
venture with your culture, someone can take
you up the mountain and into a cave.
Ban Phu is 50km west of Mukdahan via
Rtes 2042 and 2370. The only direct public
transport is a lone swngthew that heads
to/from Mukdahan (40B, 90 minutes) early
every morning, but buses go throughout the
day to Nong Sung (air-con 60B, 90 minutes),
where you can get a motorcycle taxi (50B)
or hire a swngthew (about 100B) for the
last 6km.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
532 U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i 533

eastern Isan. With the nearby ThaiLao bor- come to swot up on background information statue combining Shiva and his consort Uma
UBON RATCHATHANI der crossing at Chong Mek drawing a steady
stream of foreigners, Ubon is an increasingly
before venturing out into the wider province.
And theres plenty on show, from Buddhist
into one being; one of just two ever found in
Thailand.
PROVINCE popular travel destination. The hotel scene is
glum, but there are plenty of good restaurants
ordination-precinct stones from the Dvara-
vati period and a 2500-year-old Dong Son
Just north of the museum is Thung Si Meuang
Park, the centrepiece of which is a huge con-
This varied province, famous across Thai- and well-stocked stores that offer a chance to bronze drum to Ubon textiles and betel-nut crete replica of an elaborate votive candle. The
land for its forest wats, pushes down into enjoy the good life before heading off into sets. The museums most prized possession park is the venue of Ubons annual Candle
the tri-border region where Laos, Thailand rural Laos. is a 9th-century Ardhanarisvara, a composite Parade (see p535).
and Cambodia come together. To bolster the
regions tourist profile TAT has labelled this Orientation & Information UBON RATCHATHANI 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
the Emerald Triangle in recognition of its Most of the activity in Ubon takes place to the
magnificent green landscapes and drawing north of Mae Nam Mun and east of the main A B C D
obvious but rather hopeful parallels with northsouth thoroughfare, Th Chayangkun/ To Bangkok Bank/Lotus
Department Store (600m);
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kai Yang Wat Jaeng...........24 C3
Internet Pirch.......................1 B4 Ko Hat Wat Tai...................7 D5 Khrua Ruen Pae.................25 C5
northern Thailands Golden Triangle. How- Th Uparat. The train station, more places to Bus Terminal (4km); Wat
Phra That Nong Bua (3.5km) Main Post Office.................2 C4 Ubon Cultural Centre...........8 A2 Night Market.....................26 B4
ever successful this may be, Ubon remains one stay and a good few restaurants are south of 1 Sakda Travel World..............3 B4 Ubon National Museum.......9 B4 Night Market.....................27 B3
Saphasit Prasong Hospital....4 C3 Votive Candle....................10 B4 Night Market.....................28 B2
of the regions more attractive cities, while the Mae Nam Mun in Warin Chamrap. Tourism Authority of Thailand Wat Jaeng.........................11 C3 Night Market.....................29 C5
the surrounding countryside has plenty to (TAT)...............................5
Tourist Police.......................6
C4
C3
Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram...12
Wat Supatanaram..............13
B4
B4
Pin To................................30
Risotto...............................31
C3
C3
To Ban
entertain the rustic rover. Phu Chong Nayoi EMERGENCY & MEDICAL SERVICES Pa-Ao (21km); Wat Thung Si Meuang...... 14 C4 U-Bake..............................32 D3
Yasothon 17
and Pha Taem National Parks are two of Isans Saphasit Prasong Hospital (%0 4524 0074; Th (100km)
SLEEPING DRINKING
remotest corners. Saphasit) Has a 24-hour casualty department. han
i Lai Thong Hotel.................15 D3 Nevada Complex.............(see 17)
8 hat Montana Hotel..................16 B3 Rock................................(see 17)
Tourist police (%1155; Th Suriyat) Directly behind the hR
atc 28
Nevada Inn.........................17 B1
T
History police station. Clock
Tower
Sri Isan Hotel.....................18 C5 ENTERTAINMENT
Sri Isan Hotel 2................(see 18) Movie Theatre.................(see 17)
Ubons Mae Nam Mun and Mae Nam Chi Tokyo Hotel.......................19 B3 U-Bar.................................33 C3
river basins were centres for Dvaravati and INTERNET ACCESS 2 Ubon Hotel........................20 B4 Ubon Cultural Centre........(see 8)
m
800
Khmer cultures many centuries ago. Follow- Internet Pirch (382 Th Phrom Rat; per hr 10B; h9am- EATING SHOPPING

Th C
ing the decline of the Khmer empires, the area 11pm) Boon Ni Yon Uthayan........21 C4 Camp Fai Ubon.................34 C3

hay
Chiokee.............................22 C4 Grass-Root........................35 C4
was settled by groups of Lao in the late 18th

angk
Intro Pub/Indochine...........23 B3 Punchard...........................36 C4

Th Jaeng Sanit
Th Upalisan
century and they founded the capital city. By MONEY Jumpa-Hom....................(see 32) Punchard 2........................37 B3

un
the early Ratanakosin era it had become part Bangkok Bank (Th Chayangkun, Lotus Department To Airport

Baan
(1km) To Wat Ban
of monthon Ubon, a southeastern Isan satellite Store; h10am-8pm) Only changes cash. There are many

Th Pha Daeng
24 Na Muang (7.3km)
6
Th Suriyat
state extending across what are now Surin, Si more banks that are open normal business hours in the

Th Nakhon
Saket and Ubon Provinces as well as parts town centre and take travellers cheques. 27 23 11 4

of southern Laos with Champasak, Laos, as 3 Th Saphasit

Th Ph

Th Bu
Th Thepyothi
monthon capital. Today the Lao influence in POST 37

Th U

on
Th Chaqala
19 34
the province dominates the Khmer. Main post office (Th Si Narong; h8.30am-4.30pm

rapha
15

para

Phaen
30 31
Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)

t
Central Th Phichit
Rangsan

Nai
16
UBON RATCHATHANI Memorial
Hospital
33 32
Wat

Nok
v=[]ik(Tkou TOURIST INFORMATION Th P 3 Burapham

ang
halo
Chai
grit

Th Lu
pop 115,000 TAT (%0 4524 3770; www.tourismthailand.org; 264/1 Th Thung Si
Meuang Park Th
Phalo
ran

Survive the usual knot of choked access roads Kheuan Thani; h8.30am-4.30pm) Has information about

Th Ratchabut
10 14
and Ubon will reveal an altogether more at- Ubon, as well as Si Saket and Yasothon Provinces.
4 Th Si Narong 5 21
tractive face. Racked up against Mae Nam City Pillar

Th
2
26 ni
12 Th Kheuan Tha
Mun, Thailands second-longest waterway, TRAVEL AGENCIES 9
36

Yutthaphan
the southern portions of the city have a pe- Sakda Travel World (%0 4524 3560; Th Phalorangrit; Wat Tai

Th Supat
20 22 35
destrian, sluggish character rarely found in the h8am-6pm) Books plane tickets, rents cars and leads tours. 13
1
Th Phrom Rat
regions big conurbations. Temples pepper the ep
Th Phromth Wat
surrounding area, the urban push-and-shove Sights & Activities 29
18 Klang
7
is easily escaped and despite the quick-time UBON NATIONAL MUSEUM Floating
Restaurants
Mun
march of modernisation, a deep sense of Isan rbrbT#yIRl$kocsj(k^bv=[]ik(Tkou Mae Nam
25
identity continues to live on. Few cities in Once youve dropped your bags in the hotel
Thailand reward aimless wandering as richly and slipped on a clean shirt, your first stop in 5
as Ubon. town should be the informative Ubon National To Ubon Buri Resort (1.2km);
Warin Market (2.5km);
A US air base during the Vietnam era, Museum (%0 4525 5071; Th Kheuan Thani; admission 30B; River Moon Guest House (3km);
Train Station (3.2km);
21st-century Ubon is primarily a financial, h9am-4pm Wed-Sun). Occupying a pretty former Wat Nong Pa Phong (9km); Wat
Pa Nanachat (13km); Si Saket (65km)
educational and agricultural market centre for palace from the Rama VI era, this is the spot to
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
534 U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i
UBON CULTURAL CENTER
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The museum (%0 4535 2000; Th Jaeng Sanit; admis-
sion free; h8.30am-4pm) in the lower level of the
striking Ubon Cultural Centre, a seven-story
contemporary Isan-design tower at Rajabhat
University, is more scattershot than the Na-
tional Museum, but there are some interest-
ing cultural displays, particularly houses and
handicrafts. There is also a whole lot of wax
sculptures.
WAT THUNG SI MEUANG
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Wat Thung Si Meuang (Th Luang; hdaylight hours) was
built during the reign of Rama III (182451)
and has a hw trai (Tripitaka library) in good
shape. Like many hw trai, it rests on tall,
angled stilts in the middle of a small pond,
surrounded by water to protect the precious
scriptures from termites. Nearby, the interior
of the little bt is painted with 200-year-old
murals depicting the life and culture of the
day.
WAT PHRA THAT NONG BUA
;yfritTk^=sov'[y;
The richly adorned chedi at Wat Phra That Nong
Bua (hdaylight hours) is an almost exact replica
of the Mahabodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India;
and a much better copy of the subcontinental
original than at Wat Jet Yot in Chiang Mai,
which is also purported to be a Mahabodhi
reproduction. The jataka reliefs on the out-
side of the chedi are very good. Two groups
of four niches on each side of the four-sided
chedi contain Buddhas standing in stylised
Gupta or Dvaravati closed-robe poses. It
is the only square stupa in Ubon Province,
unless you count the older one it was built
over. The domed bt also copies its Bodhgaya
counterpart. It is near the bus terminal on the
outskirts of town; take swngthew 10.
WAT BAN NA MUANG
;yf[hkookg}v'
Also known as Wat Sa Prasan Suk, Wat Ban
Na Muang (hdaylight hours) stands out for three
unique things. Most famously, the bt sits
on a boat a ceramic encrusted replica of
King Rama IXs royal barge Suphannahong,
complete with a sculpted crew, to be precise.
The whan also has a boat-shaped base, this
time the princes personal craft and this one
is surrounded by an actual pond. These were
lonelyplanet.com
not just artistic endeavours, rather the water
represents our desires and the boats represent
staying above them. The commissioner of
these creations, Luang Pu Boon Mi, died in
2001 and his body is on display behind glass
in the big hall next to the boat bt. Finally, to
reach all of these, you must pass under an im-
mense statue of Airavata, Hindu God Indras
three-headed elephant mount. The temple is
5km northwest of town, 1km off the ring road;
swngthew 8 passes it.
WAT JAENG
;yfc&h'
Wat Jaeng (Th Nakhon Baan; hdaylight hours), built
around the time of the citys founding, has
a little Lan Xangstyle sm (bt). The carved
wooden veranda depicts Airavata and two
mythical lions. The bt next to it is the typical
Isan mix of Thai and Lao styles.
WAT SI UBON RATTANARAM
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The bt at Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram (Th Uparat;
hdaylight hours) was built to resemble Bangkoks
Wat Benchamabophit, but its the 7cm-tall
Topaz Buddha inside that most people come
to see. Phra Kaew Busarakham was report-
edly brought here from Vientiane at Ubons
founding and is the citys holiest possession.
It sits behind glass high up the back wall, all
but out of sight; there are binoculars available
to get a closer look, and the image directly in
front of the largest Buddha is a copy.
WAT SUPATANARAM
;yfl=xyDokik}
Called Wat Supat (Th Supat; hdaylight hours) for
short, the unique bt at this riverside temple,
built between 1920 and 1936, features a mix of
Khmer, European and Thai styles. In contrast
to other Thai- or Lao-style temple structures
of the region, the bt is made entirely of stone,
like the early Khmer stone prasat, and the roof
corners display dragons. On display inside
is one of Thailands oldest-surviving Khmer
stone carvings, a lush stone lintel dating to
the 7th century. The largest wooden bell in
Thailand hangs near the front.
KO HAT WAT TAI
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Picnicking families flock to this island in
Mae Nam Mun during the hot, dry months
of February, March, April and May. There
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E
are beaches for swimming and sunbathing. A
makeshift bamboo bridge connects it to the
northern shore.
WARIN CHAMRAP DISTRICT TEMPLES
The famous monk and meditation master
Ajahn Cha was quite a name in these parts. He
founded the two well-known forest monaster-
ies detailed below, and students of his have
opened a long list of temples across Thailand,
and even about a dozen in Europe, North
America, Australia and New Zealand.
Known for his simple and direct teach-
ing method, the venerable ajahn (teacher),
a former disciple of the most famous north-
eastern teacher of them all, Ajahn Man, died
in January 1992, aged 75. His funeral, held
at Wat Nong Pa Phong, drew thousands of
followers from around the world.
Wat Nong Pa Phong
;yfsov'xj kr'
Peaceful Wat Nong Pa Phong (hdaylight hours) is
known for its quiet discipline and daily rou-
tine of work and meditation. Dozens of West-
erners have lived here over recent decades,
and several still do, but if you have an interest
in Buddhism youll be steered to Wat Pa Na-
nachat unless you are fluent in Thai. The wat
features the chedi where Ajahn Chas ashes
are interred and a large museum (admission free;
h8am-4.30pm) displaying an odd assortment of
items, from Ajahn Chas worldly possessions
to world currencies to a foetus in a jar. The
temple is about 10km past the river take
swngthew 14 from the Warin Market.
Wat Pa Nanachat
;yfxj kokok(k^b[=j's;kp
Wat Pa Nanachat (www.watpahnanachat.org; Ban Bung
Wai, Amphoe Warin, Ubon Ratchathani 34310; hdaylight
hours) is a Western-oriented wat, opened in
1975 specifically for non-Thais, and English
is the primary language. Those with a serious
interest in Buddhism and previous meditation
experience are welcome to apply (write using
the above address or the website) to stay here.
Guests must follow all temple rules (including
eating just one meal a day, rising at 3am, and
shaving heads and eyebrows after the third
day). During the March-to-May hot season,
monks go into retreat and overnight guests
arent usually accepted.
There is nothing really to see here, but visi-
tors are welcome to drop by. A senior monk
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i 535
is available most days after the 8am meal to
answer questions. A swngthew from Warin
Market or any Si Saket bus can drop you on
Hwy 226, about 500m from the entrance. The
wat is in the forest behind the rice fields.
Festivals & Events
Ubons Candle Parade (Hae Tian) features gigantic,
elaborately carved wax sculptures and is a part
of Khao Phansa, a Buddhist holiday marking
the commencement of wan wk phansa, the
Rains Retreat (Buddhist Lent) in July. You
can see the floats the rest of the year on most
temple grounds, where they are kept until its
time to melt them down for the next parade.
The festival is very popular with Thai tourists
and the citys hotel rooms are often all booked
for the event.
Sleeping
BUDGET
River Moon Guest House (%0 4528 6093; 43 Th Sisaket
2; r 120-150B) Parts of this rustic, wooden spot
are falling apart, the chairs in the lounge are
from an old train and old musical instruments
lean against the walls yet somehow it all
adds up to pretty cool. Its about 200m from
the train station in Warin Chamrap. Facilities
are shared.
Sri Isan Hotel 2 (%0 4525 4544; 60 Th Ratchabut; r
160-350B; a) This older, dishevelled place, hid-
den behind its flashier sister sleeper, is, for the
price, one of the citys better budget hotels.
Tokyo Hotel (%0 4524 1739; 360 Th Uparat; r 220-
600B; a) Besides being a popular though dour
midranger, the Tokyo is a good budget bet in
the centre of Ubon, with the highest-priced
rooms in a new tower and some relatively
humble air-con and fan affairs in the old.
Ubon Hotel (%0 4524 1045; 333 Th Kheuan Thani;
r 280-700B; ai) The plain Jane of Ubons
hotels is too old and tired to recommend as the
midranger it wants to be, but the budget fan
rooms offer reasonable value, and the balcony
views from upper floors are a nice bonus.
MIDRANGE
Montana Hotel (%0 4526 1748; 179/1-4 Th Uparat; r
400B; a) The focal point of this central hotel
is the VIP Piano Karaoke Bar, and the porter
is an enthusiastic boom-boom salesman. But
if you can escape the potential shenanigans
down below, youll find the rooms are spot-
less and well appointed, with little balconies,
TV and fridge.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
536 U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i
Nevada Inn (%0 4531 3351; 436 Th Chayangkun; r
550-800B, ste 1500B; a) North of the centre, en-
sconced in the citys busiest entertainment
complex, the lower-level rooms have wooden
floors and frilly bedspreads giving it a fair
amount of va-va-voom for the price but only
by Ubons low standards. If you are looking
to move up the price range, youd probably
be better off moving across the parking lot to
its big brother, the Nevada Grand.
Sri Isan Hotel (% 0 4526 1011; www
.sriisanhotel.com; 62 Th Ratchabut; r 550-1300B; ai)
The exception to the rule of Ubons typical
uninspired midrangers, this bright, cheerful
place is full of natural light, which streams
down through the atrium and gives the lobby
an open, airy feel. The rooms, which come
with fridge and TV, are small and the dcor
is a little twee a knitted toilet roll cover
wouldnt be out of place but standards are
high and an orchid comes gratis on every
pillow.
TOP END
Ubon Buri Resort (%0 4526 6777; www.ubonburiresort
.com; Th Srimongkol; r 1140-1330B, bungalow 1500B, ste
2500B; ais) This bona fide, self-contained
resort is the place to come if youre planning
on staying in Ubon without really being in
Ubon. With rooms and bungalows set in acres
of lush, tropical greenery, Isan folk-art styling
and tip-top staff, this is Ubons best-value
top-ender. Its just off the main road between
Ubon and Warin Chamrap.
Lai Thong Hotel (%0 4526 4271; www.laithongho
tel.net; 50 Th Phichit Rangsan; s/d 1200/1300B, ste 3000B;
ais) A tourist office favourite, this
swanky spot offers attentive staff, all the usual
executive facilities and the odd token nod to
traditional Isan design. There is a 3rd-floor
outdoor swimming pool.
Eating
Boon Ni Yon Uthayan (%0 4524 0950; Th Si Narong; per
plate 15B; hbreakfast & lunch) One of Ubons most
famous restaurants has an impressive vegetar-
ian buffet under a giant roof. Most of the food
is grown organically just outside the city.
U-Bake (%0 4526 5671; 49/3 Th Phichit Rangsan;
chocolate cake 40B; hlunch & dinner; ai) The
French-Lao influence means Ubon is more
accustomed to pastries than many parts of
Thailand and U-Bake is as good as it gets. It
shares a water-and-plant filled wooden deck
with its sister restaurant, Jumpa-Hom.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i 537
Kai Yang Wat Jaeng (%08 1709 9393; 228 Th Suriyat; abut next to Thung Si Meuang or the market
dishes 20-100B; hlunch) It looks like a tornado on Th Uparat north of the Tokyo Hotel. BUSES TO/FROM UBON
whipped through this no-frills spot, but the Destination Fare (B) Duration (hr)
chefs cook up a storm of their own. This is Entertainment
considered by many to be Ubons premier U-Bar (%0 4526 5141; 97/8-10 Th Phichit Rangsan; h6pm- Kantharalak
purveyor of ki yang, sm-tam, sausages and 1am) This has long been Ubons ubertrendy (for Khao Phra Wihan)
other Isan food. (well, for Isan anyway) nightspot. It offers hip ordinary 37 1
Intro Pub/Indochine (%0 4524 5584; 168-170 Th styling, plenty of shiny, happy people and a Khon Kaen
Saphasit; dishes 40-100B; hlunch & dinner; a) Its drink called Blue Kamikaze, which is served ordinary 147 4
difficult to see the wood for the trees at this out of a sinister-looking slush machine behind air-con 230
popular two-in-one place the exterior of the the bar. The bands (and they get some pretty Khorat
timber building is cloaked by leaves. The deli- good ones) usually kick off around 9pm and ordinary 155 7
ciously fresh Vietnamese food is served down- the club is packed soon after. air-con 279
stairs in Indochine until 6pm, when the action Ubon Cultural Centre (%0 4535 2000; Th Jaeng Sanit) Mukdahan
and the chefs move to the slightly swankier There are sometimes Isan song and dance ordinary 80 3
Intro Pub venue above. The menu featuring performances here. air-con 144
favourites such as ban hoi thit nuong (grilled Ubons nightlife nexus is the Nevada Complex Pakse, Laos
pork with vermicelli) remains the same, but (Th Chayangkun), a multibar and restaurant air-con 200 3
you get live music upstairs after dark. area anchored by a seven-screen movie thea- Roi Et
Chiokee (%0 4525 4017; 307-317 Th Kheuan Thani; tre (%0 4531 3351) and the Rock (%0 4528 0999; ordinary 82 3
dishes 25-160B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Offering h10pm-2am), a rough and ready dance club air-con 148
a slightly incongruous blend of East (dark- that doesnt get going until midnight. Sakon Nakhon
wood styling and a decorative Chinese ordinary 125 5
shrine) and West (Heinz ketchup and white Shopping air-con 225
tablecloths), this popular spot whips up a Grass-Root (%0 4524 1272; 87 Th Yutthaphan; h9am- Si Saket
wide range of dishes, from eel soup to English 6pm) The speciality of Ubon Province is natu- ordinary 40 1
breakfasts. ral-dyed, hand-woven cotton and youll find air-con 59
Pin To (no roman-script sign; %0 4524 4473; 298-300 a fantastic assortment here. Surin
Th Phichit Rangsan; dishes 40-180B; hlunch & dinner; a) Camp Fai Ubon (%0 4524 1821; 189 Th Thepyothi; ordinary 80 3
This snug, wooden diner has oodles of cosy h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Signed as Peaceland, this is air-con 144
character, live music in the evening, a scatter- another good place for hand-woven cotton. Yasothon
ing of tables on the street out the front and a Punchard (%0 4524 3433; 158 Th Ratchabut; h8am- ordinary 50 1
reasonable selection of Thai food. The cooking 8pm Mon-Sat) and Punchard 2 (%0 4526 5751; 156 Th air-con 90
is not the ace card, but it remains a pleasant Pha Daeng; h9.30am-8.30pm) stock a wider array
spot for an after-dinner beer and snack. of handicrafts. Shop carefully though, prices
Khrua Ruen Pae (no roman-script sign; %0 4532 are high. Phibun (25B, 1 hours, hourly) and Khong
4342; dishes 60-250B; hlunch & dinner) One of four Jiam (60B, three hours, five daily) buses stop
floating restaurants on Mae Nam Mun, Krun Getting There & Away briefly at the Warin Market after leaving the
Ruen Pae serves up tasty food and a relaxed AIR terminal, but theyre sometimes already full
atmosphere. You can drive here (exit to the THAI (www.thaiairways.com) has three daily flights when they get there.
west and then go under the bridge) but its to/from Bangkok (one way 2700B), while Air
easier to find if you walk. Asia (www.airasia.com ) has one flight (1650B). TRAIN
Risotto (%08 1879 1869; Th Phichit Rangsan; dishes The train station (%0 4532 1004) is in Warin
70-300B; hlunch & dinner; a) The dining room BUS Chamrap; swngthew 2 connects it to Ubon.
cant pull off an Italian vibe, but the kitchen Ubons bus terminal (%0 4531 6085) is north of The Ubon express leaves Bangkok nightly at
offers a dash of la dolce vita. Risotto makes the town centre, just off Th Chayangkun 8.30pm, arriving in Ubon at 6.35am the next
one of the best pizzas in Isan. take swngthew 2, 3 or 10. Buses link Ubon day while the Bangkok-bound train leaves
Jumpa-Hom (%0 4526 0398; 49/3 Th Phichit Rangsan; with Bangkoks northern terminal (air-con Ubon at 6.30pm arriving at Hualamphong
dishes 65-1500B; hdinner; a) Sharing premises 411B, eight hours) frequently. Nakhonchai station at 5.25am. Nine other trains also make
with U-Bake, this restaurant serves pricey Air (%0 4526 9777), with an office at the ter- the run throughout the day taking just as long,
Thai, Chinese and Western cuisine. minal, has VIP buses to Bangkok (594B, 10 except the 2.50pm express service that makes
Ubon has many small night markets daily), Rayong (687B, 14 hours, five daily) the trip in 8 hours.
(h4.30pm-midnight) rather than one large one. and Chiang Mai (960B, 17 hours, four daily). Fares for 1st-class air-con sleeper/2nd-class
The tlat yi (big market) down by the river Other fares to/from Ubon are in the table fan sleeper/2nd-class seat/3rd-class seat are
is much smaller than the market up Th Ratch- on right. 1180/471/221/95B.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
538 U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i P r o v i n c e 539

These train services also stop in Khorat
(1st/2nd/3rd class 268/133/58B, six hours).
Getting Around
Numbered and colour-coded swngthew
(8B) run throughout town. The free city map
TAT hands out has the routes marked. A nor-
mal tk-tk trip will cost about 40B and a
samlw will be about 20B.
The Lai Thong Hotel rents mountain bikes
for 200B per day.
AROUND UBON RATCHATHANI
PROVINCE
Ban Pa-Ao
[hkozkvjk;
Ban Pa-Ao, northwest of Ubon on Hwy 23, is
a silk-weaving village, but it is best known for
producing brass and bronze items using the
lost-wax casting method. Between December
and July you can see workers making bowls
and bells at a cooperative workshop in the
centre of the village most people work in
the rice fields the rest of the year. Theres a
village-run homestay programme (%08 1967 0225;
per person per night incl 2 meals 500B), which offers the
chance to try silk weaving.
Ban Pa-Ao is 3km off the highway, near the
Km 19 pillar. Buses to Yasothon pass this way
and a motorcycle taxi from the highway will
cost about 15B.
Phibun Mangsahan to Khong Jiam
rb[)]}y'lkski!F*'g&up}
Visitors often stop in the dusty town of
Phibun Mangsahan to see a set of rapids
called Kaeng Sapheu, just downstream of the
Mae Nam Mun river crossing. The rocky
islets make Python Rapids rise only from
end of January until June, but the shady park
here makes it a pleasant stop year-round. Its
got a Chinese temple, several simple restau-
rants (most serving frog skins and fish) and
countless souvenir shops. Many fishermen
work here and theyll take you on boat trips
(per hour 400B, all day 1500-1800B) where you can
see many birds and visit island wats. Phibun
Mangsahan is also the location of the Ubon
immigration office (%0 4544 1108; h8.30am-4.30pm
Mon-Fri), where visa extensions are available.
The office is 700m south of the bridge on the
way to Chong Mek.
The villages just over the bridge, as you
drive east to Khong Jiam along Rte 2222, are
famed for forging iron and bronze gongs, both
for temples and classical Thai-music ensem-
bles. You can watch the gong-makers ham-
mering the flat metal discs and tempering
them in rustic fires at many houses and simple
roadside shelters. Small gongs start at around
500B and the huge 2m gongs fetch as much
as 200,000B. People make many drums and
cymbals around here too.
Five kilometres before Khong Jiam you can
cross the Pak Mun Dam to little Kaeng Tana
National Park (%0 4540 6886, reservations 0 2562 0760;
admission 200B; h6am-6pm). After circling thickly
forested Don Tana, linked to the mainland by
footbridge, Mae Nam Mun roils through the
beautiful namesake rapids, which lie under-
water during the rainy season. The island has
a beach at the north end and the 2km clifftop
trail to Lan Pha Phueng viewpoint is serene.
Bikes cost 50B per hour and, if you call a day
in advance, park staff can arrange canoe rental
(per hour 100B) and horseback riding. Five
kilometres south of the visitor centre (h 8am-
6pm) is Nam Tok Tad Ton, a wide waterfall just a
300m walk from the road. There is a camp site
(per person 30B, 2-person tent hire 150B) and restaurant
by the rapids. The park is 14km from Khong
Jiam; there is no public transport.
Khong Jiam sits on a picturesque peninsula
at the confluence of the Mekong and Mun
Rivers, which Thais call Mae Nam Song Si (Two
Colour River) after the contrasting coloured cur-
rents formed at the junction. Huge conical fish
traps are made here for local use; they look
very much like the fish traps that appear in the
3000-year-old murals at Pha Taem National
Park (p539). You can charter long-tail boats
to take you out to Mae Nam Song Si (300B,
up to 10 people), Kaeng Tana (600B) or Pha
Taem (1200B).
Thais can cross the Mekong to Laos and
though this is not an official crossing for for-
eigners, it is possible to persuade the Lao im-
migration police (all it takes is 50B) to let you
visit the market in the Lao village across the
river. First you should get a border pass from
Thai immigration, which officials will give
you if you are polite and dressed nice.
SLEEPING & EATING
There are a few passable places to stay in
Phibun Mangsahan, but Khong Jiam offers
better options.
Phiboonkit Hotel (%0 4544 1201; 65/1-3 Th Phiboon,
Phibun Mangsahan; r 200-300B; a) In the centre of
town, midway between the bus stop and the
bridge, this is your usual, slightly chaotic,
budget hotel.
Apple Guest House (%0 4535 1160; 267 Th Kaewpra-
dit, Khong Jiam; r 150-300B; a) Down a tiny little
alley, the Apple has old wooden buildings with
bathrooms shared between two rooms, and
concrete rooms below with private bathroom
for the same price. Both are pretty basic.
Mongkon Guest House (%0 4535 1352; 595 Th
Kaewpradit, Khong Jiam; r 200-800B; a) From the
simple fan rooms to the four cute wooden
cottages, this place near the highway is a good
choice for any budget. It rents bikes (per day
100B) and motorcycles (per day 200B).
Tohsang Khong Jiam Resort (%0 4535 1174; www
.tohsang.com; Khong Jiam; r 2000-2500B, villas 3000-6000B;
ais) The glitz and gloss at this large
resort-spa are a little incongruous for this
stretch of rural Thailand, but this looming
place holds all the aces in the posh-accom-
modation stakes. Its 3km out of town, in a
lush garden on the south bank of Mae Nam
Mun.
Tom Reung Ruang (no roman-script sign; hbreak-
fast & lunch) This ramshackle shop right at the
bridge in Phibun is famous for saalaapao
(large Chinese buns), nng jip (small pork-
filled wraps) and nng kp (frog skin, usually
fried). Thais visiting Pha Taem National Park
like to stop here to stock up on these items
(5B each)
There are plenty of simple restaurants in
Khong Jiam, some floating down on the Me-
kong. The row of food vendors (h 6am-midnight)
in front of market, at the junction of the high-
way and the main road, is the closest thing
Khong Jiam has to a night market.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Five Khong Jiam buses leave Ubon (50B, three
hours) daily; you can also take a Phibun bus
(25B, 1 hours) and continue by swngthew
(30B, one hour, every half-hour) from the
bridge, which is about 1km (10B by tk-tk)
from the Khong Jiam bus stop.
Pha Taem National Park
v=mpkocsj'(k^bzkc^h}
Up the Mekong from Khong Jiam is a long
stone cliff named Pha Taem the centrepiece
of Pha Taem National Park (%0 4526 6333, reservations
0 2562 0760; admission 400B; h24hr). From the top
you get an amazing birds-eye view of Laos,
and you can see the first sunset in Thailand.
Down below, reached via a trail, the cliff
features prehistoric rock paintings that are at
least 3000 years old. Mural subjects include
fish traps, plaa buk (giant Mekong catfish),
elephants, human hands and geometric de-
signs. The second viewing platform fronts the
most impressive pictographs. A clifftop visitor
centre (h 8am-5pm) contains exhibits pertain-
ing to the paintings and local geology.
Nam Tok Soi Sawan, a 25m-tall waterfall
flowing from June to November, is another
popular spot. Its a 19km drive from the visi-
tor centre, but its best reached by the 9km
hiking trail tracing the cliff. What the park
calls Thailands largest flower field (blooming
late October to end of December) lies just
beyond the falls. The far north of the park,
where roads are so bad they are best travelled
on two wheels, holds many more waterfalls
and wonderful views. Pa Cha Na Dai cliff serves
Thailands first sunrise. Scattered across the
340-sq-km park are several areas called Sao
Chaliang, mushroom-shaped stone formations
similar to Phu Pha Thoep in Mukdahan Na-
tional Park.
Pha Taem has camp sites (per tent 30B, 2-person
tent hire 150B) and six bungalows (6-bed with fan 1200B,
4-bed with air-con 2000B). Vendors sell snacks and
beverages near the visitor centre.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Pha Taem is 18km beyond Khong Jiam via Rte
2112, but theres no public transport there.
The best way to get there on your own is to
rent a motorcycle in Khong Jiam, which will
set you back 150B to 200B.
Chong Mek & the Emerald Triangle
(jv'g}Hd!lk}gs]p}}id^
South of Khong Jiam, at the end of Rte 217,
is the small trading town of Chong Mek on the
ThaiLao border, the only place in Thailand
where farng can cross into Laos by land (that
is, you dont have to cross the Mekong). The
southern Lao capital of Pakse is about 45 min-
utes by road from Vangtao, the village on the
Lao side of the border, where you can now
buy a 30-day visa on the spot. Buses cross-
ing here wait for passengers to complete the
paperwork. The border is open from 6am
until 6pm, but Lao border officials charge a
40B overtime levy/bribe (it doesnt appear
to be an official charge) if you arrive before
8am or after 4pm or anytime on a weekend.
They also try to extract a 50B stamping fee
no matter what the hour.
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
540 U B O N R ATC HAT HA N I P R O V I N C E A r o u n d U b o n R a t c h a t h a n i P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S U R I N & S I S A K E T P R O V I N C E S S u r i n & A r o u n d 541

Thai travellers come to Chong Mek to Phu Chong Nayoi National Park especially from February to April. At the far features 300 elephants showing their skills and
browse through cheap goods from China, v=mpkocsj'(k^b#)&v'okpvp end of the 687-sq-km park, there are superb taking part in a battle re-enactment. Tickets
Vietnam and Laos. Foreign visitors wont Stretching across the Emerald Triangle, the vistas of the surrounding countryside (it looks start at 40B, but VIP seats, which get you
find much of interest to purchase here, un- jungle-clad intersection of the Lao, Thai and a lot like the view from Pha Taem cliff, but closest to the action, English commentary
less theyre in the market for toiletries (from Cambodian borders, is the little-known Phu with jungle instead of the Mekong at the bot- and guaranteed shade cost 500B. Arguably
China), camouflage clothing (from Vietnam) Chong Nayoi National Park (%0 4541 1515, reservations tom of the valley) from atop Pha Hin Dang. Its the festivals best event is the free buffet for
or CDs (from Laos), though skirts and fabrics 0 2562 0760; admission 400B; h24hr), one of Thai- a 50km drive from the main park entrance the elephants and parade on the Friday before
are priced very low. If you get here after hours, lands wildest parks and healthiest forests. and then a 2km hike. the big show.
the Nonthaveth & Ounchith Guest House (%0 4548 Fauna includes barking deer, monkeys, gib- Stargazing is superb here, so consider Just outside the capital city youll find more
5237; r 200-500B; ai) is clean and friendly, bons, Malayan sun bears, Asiatic black bears, spending the night. There are four three-bed elephantine entertainment and some interest-
though the fan rooms are a little overpriced. black hornbills, red jungle fowl and the en- bungalows (600B) with hot water and electricity, ing handicraft villages. Further afield are some
About 5km west of Chong Mek is the dangered white-winged ducks. Elephants plus a camp site (per person 30B). During our visit ruins worth the effort to reach for those with
northeastern shore of the huge Kheuan Sirinthon and tigers often cross over the border into there was no tent hire, but this may change. a history habit.
reservoir, an impoundment of a Mae Nam the park. A couple of restaurants operate on weekends
Mun tributary. Local aquaphiles and picnick- The parks primary attraction is Nam Tok and holidays only, but park staff will cook for Information
ers frequent a recreation area on forested hills Huay Luang, which plunges 40m over a cliff in overnight guests with advance notice. Snacks Microsys (Th Sirirat, Surin; per hr 15B; h24hr) You can
near the dam at its northern end. two separate but parallel streams. A short trail and drinks are available daily. access email here.
leads to the top, and you can walk down 272 Post office (Th Tanasan, Surin; h8.30am-4.30 Mon-Fri,
GETTING THERE & AWAY steps to the bottom. Another 170m down- GETTING THERE & AWAY 9am-noon Sat, Sun & holidays)
Swngthew run between Phibun and Chong stream is little Nam Tok Pa On La-Oe, also a pretty From Ubon catch one of the three morning Ruamphet Hospital (%0 4451 3192; Th Thesaban
Mek (35B, one hour) every 20 minutes. There picture. You can swim below both, though buses to the town of Najaluay (60B, three 1, Surin)
is no public transport between Chong Mek they dry up around March. Rangers love tak- hours). From Najaluay, tk-tk can be hired Siam Commercial Bank (Th Sratara, Surin;
and Khong Jiam; you must go through Phibun ing visitors on short bamboo raft trips (price for about 300B for the return journey to Nam h10.30am-8pm) Has ATM and exchange facilities inside
or hire a tk-tk for about 400B. If you are negotiable) above the falls where they insist Tok Huai Luang with a short wait. If you have Surin Plaza shopping centre.
continuing on to Pakse, catch a bus (50B) on you might see a python; but water levels are your own wheels, the turn-off to the park is
the Lao side. often too high or too low to make the trip, 9km beyond Najaluay, and Huai Luang is Sights & Activities
another 11km after the turn-off. BAN THA KLANG
AROUND SI SAKET & UBON RATCHATHANI 0
0
20 km
12 miles
[hko^kd]k'
To see Surins elephants during the low sea-
ROI ET
Hua
2227
Maha
Chana Chai
Kok
La
m
Si
Nong
Chang Yai

Meuang Nan Bo Baeng

Trakan
Pheutphon
2134 2135
Nam Taeng
SURIN & SI SAKET son, visit the Elephant Study Centre (%08 1879
2773; donations appreciated; h9am-5pm) in Ban Tha
PROVINCES
Dong Ban Nong
Samsip Si Muang Mai Pheu
Ba

Sang Paen
Pha Taem Klang, about 50km north of Surin. Displays
i

23
212 2050 National Park
Ma
2083
Ban Huay Phai inside and out discuss elephants and elephant
Phung Kho Wang Khuang Nai Tae Mai LAOS
eN
am
Mu Rasi Salai Ban Pa-Ao Bao Kham Na Khae Tung
Lung
Khong Ka
Jiam Keng mheu
The adjacent provinces of Surin and Si Saket training, and dozens of the performers at the
n N
Mae am C Rai Noi un
Tam Sum p are dotted with Angkor-era Khmer ruins. annual festival live here some in traditional
hi M 2222
Bung Bun Yang Chum a e Nam Kaeng Tana
Noi Ubon M Phibun Mangsahan
National Park Most are now looking rather tatty, but Khao Suai homes sheltering both elephants and
Me ver

Ratchathani 217
2168
Phra Wihan ranks among the northeasts best humans. There are one-hour shows (donations
Ri

Prasat Sa Kaeng 217

kon

Warin Chamrap Kaeng

Kamphaeng Noi Wat Phra That Kaeng Sapheu
attractions. expected) daily (except during the festival, but
g

Prasat Hin Rueang Rong Don Chik Chong Mek

Dom 10
Wat Sa Som Poi
Kamphaeng Yai
Tha Lat
24 Ban Mai
Sing Amphon
Phonthong The regions towns are rather less interest- there are plans to change that) at 10am and
226 Na Yeah
ing, but Surin in particular makes a com- 2pm.
Lam D

Uthumphon Si Saket Kantharom

Phisai 2172 Kheuan
Na Phiman
Huay Thap
Samrong Than Nong Khaen Samrong Non
Sirinthon fortable base for exploring the temples and The village hosts an Elephant Parade, with
o

provides the backdrop for the raucous Annual all the pachyderms brightly painted, around
m

Thap 221 Non Khun Sawang

Ya
Phayu 2178 i UBON
220 SI SAKET
Nam Kliang
Det Udom RATCHATHANI Elephant Roundup, held each November. Mays full moon, for the new monks ordina-
Ban Pok
Kam Maet
Ban Keon Klang
tion ceremony.
Prang Ku
2111 Ban Tum Nong Ngu Luam 2182
Nong
SURIN & AROUND Buses from Surin (30B, two hours) run
2167 Tarang Sawai
Phra
Kheuan
Ta Mai
24
2192
Nong Hom
Riang Buntharik LAOS l=ibomiN hourly. If you are driving, take Rte 214 north
Khu Khan
Beung
Sirat Sam Yaek
Khok Thiam
Ban Nong pop 41,200 for 40km and follow the Elephant Village
Tana Prahut
Ah Voi 24 Wat Lan
2171
Saeng
Quiet Surin doesnt have much to say for signs down Rte 3027.
SURIN Khuad
Khun Han
Kantharalak
2214 Kham itself until November, when the provincial
Lalom Kan Som
2201
2127 Nam Khun
Bon
Kham Bak
capital explodes into life for the Annual Elephant CRAFT VILLAGES
Sam Rong
Khok Tal
Klat
Pue Mai
221
Najaluay Roundup when giant scrums of pachyderm There are many silk-weaving villages in easy
Bua Chet Nam Yeun 2248
Na Don Aew Phum Saron Phu Chong Nayoi come to town youll never see so many striking distance of Surin town. By far the
Chuor Phno Nong Khon
Sanuan m
(Dangkrek M Dangkrek
Prasat Khao Phra
Wihan National Khao Phra Wihan
National Park
well-dressed tuskers. The city celebrates for most famous is Ban Tha Sawang, where Chan-
ountains Nohn Sung
) Chong Park (Preah Vihear) 10 days, but the massive crowds come on just soma (%08 1726 0397) makes exquisite brocade
Phran CAMBODIA
the last weekend for the main event, which fabrics incorporating threads coated in silver
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
542 S U R I N & S I S A K E T P R O V I N C E S
or gold. You cant buy them here they are
only made to order; prices start at 30,000B per
metre but the weaving process, which takes
two to three months, is mighty impressive.
Four women, including one sitting on a floor
below the others, work the loom simultane-
ously. Dozens of other shops selling more
typical silks serve the masses disgorged by a
steady stream of tour buses. The village is 8km
west of the city via Rte 4026, and swngthew
(12B, 20 minutes) run regularly from the mar-
ket in Surin.
Ban Khwao Sinarin and Ban Chok, next door
neighbours 18km north of Surin via Rtes 214
and 3036, are known for silk and silver respec-
tively, though you can buy some of both in
each village. One of the silk specialities is pha
hole, a distinctive tightly woven mt-mi. Also
popular is yok daw, a much simpler brocade
style that requires up to 35 footpedals on the
looms. Neither fabric style is readily available
in other parts of Thailand, and prices here (as
well as in other Surin villages) can be over 50%
cheaper. The silver standout is prakueam, a
Cambodian style of bead brought to Thailand
by Ban Choks ancestors many centuries ago.
You can see both products being made at
shops and homes in the villages, and Khun
Manee, who runs Phra Dab Suk (%08 9865 8720)
on the main drag, often takes customers (or
non-customers for a small fee) out to see the
entire silk-weaving process, from cocoon to
loom. Swngthew go from Surin (20B, 1
hours) hourly.
The residents of Ban Buthom, 14km out of
Surin on Rte 226, on the way to Sikhoraphum,
weave sturdy, unlacquered rattan baskets, in-
cluding some rather flat ones that pack well.
PRASAT TA MEUAN
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The most atmospheric and most difficult
to reach of Surins temple ruins is a series
of three sites known collectively as Prasat Ta
Meuan (admission free; h6am-5pm) in Amphoe
Ban Ta Miang on the Cambodian border. It
lines the ancient route linking Angkor Wat
to Phimai.
The first site, Prasat Ta Meuan proper, was
built in the Jayavarman VII period (AD 1181
1210) as a rest stop for pilgrims. Its a fairly
small monument with a two-door, 10-window
sanctuary constructed of laterite blocks; only
one sculpted sandstone lintel over the rear
door remains.
S u r i n & A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com
Just 300m south, Prasat Ta Meuan Toht, which
is said to have been the chapel for a heal-
ing station or hospital like Prang Ku out-
side Chaiyaphum, is a bit larger. Also built
by Jayavarman VII, the ruins consist of a
gopura, mondp and main prang, which are
surrounded by a laterite wall.
Nearly a kilometre further south, next to
the army base at the end of the road, is the
largest site, Prasat Ta Meuan Thom, which pre-
dates the other two sites by as much as two
centuries. Despite a somewhat haphazard
reconstruction, this one nearly justifies the
effort it takes to get here. Three prangs and a
large hall are built of sandstone blocks on a
laterite base and several smaller buildings still
stand inside the wall. Many carvings encase
the principal prang, but the best were pried or
blasted away and sold to unscrupulous Thai
dealers by the Khmer Rouge who occupied the
site in the 1980s. A stairway on the southern
end drops into Cambodian territory. Land
mines and undetonated hand grenades still lit-
ter the thick jungle surrounding the complex,
which is why the red signs (in Thai only) warn
you of danger.
The sites begin 10.5km south of Ban Ta
Miang (on Rte 224, 23km east of Ban Kruat)
via a winding road used by far more cows
than cars. You need your own transport to
get here, and a visit is more convenient from
Phanom Rung Historical Park (p468) than
from Surin town.
OTHER KHMER-TEMPLE RUINS
The southern reach of Surin Province along
the Cambodian border harbours several minor
Angkor-period ruins, including Prasat Hin Ban
Phluang (admission 30B; h7.30am-6pm), 33km south
of Surin. Its just a solitary sandstone prang
with most of its top gone sitting on a laterite
base that once held three; but some wonderful
carvings, including a lintel above the entrance
with the Hindu god Indra riding his elephant,
Airavata, make it worth a trip. It was prob-
ably built in the 11th century and a U-shaped
moat rings it. The site sits 600m off Rte 214;
the turn-off is 1.5km south of Hwy 24. Any
vehicle bound for the border can drop you
nearby, but its easier to get to the town of
Prasat and hire a motorcycle taxi there.
A larger Khmer site is seen 30km north-
east of town at Prasat Sikhoraphum (admission
30B; h7.30am-6pm), in the town of the same
name. Built in the 12th century, Sikhoraphum
Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com S U R I N & S I S A K E T P R O V I N C E S
features five brick prang, the tallest of which
reaches 32m. Two of the prang still hold their
tops, including the central one whose door-
ways are decorated with stone carvings of
Hindu deities following the Angkor Wat style.
Locals are keenly proud of this site and sell
DVDs of student music and dance shows and
T-shirts to raise money for a small museum
that would house two Sikhoraphum lintels
currently consigned to museums in Surin and
Phimai. Sikhoraphum can be reached by bus
(20B, one hour) or train (7B, 40 minutes)
from Surin town. If driving out here, you may
as well take a 300m detour off Rte 226 for a
peep at Prasat Muang Thi (admission free; hdaylight
hours), 15km from Surin. The three remaining
brick prang are in sad shape (one looks like its
ready to topple), but theyre so small theyre
actually kind of cute.
The ruined Prasat Phumpon (admission free;
hdaylight hours) in Amphoe Sangkha (9km
south of Hwy 24 on Rte 2124; veer right
through the village at the fork in the road),
dating from the 7th or 8th century, is the
oldest Khmer prasat in Thailand; though that
is its only claim to fame and you will likely be
disappointed by this simple brick prang.
Surin can also be used as a base to visit the
Khmer ruins at Phanom Rung about 75km
southwest of Surin in Buriram Province (see
p468).
SURIN NATIONAL MUSEUM
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As has been the case ever since this museum,
about 5km south of town on Rte 214, was
constructed in 2000, the best guess anyone
can give for when it will open is next year.
Displays will focus on Surins ethnic groups,
including the Suai, the regions renown el-
ephant herders, and the provinces Khmer
ruins.
VOLUNTEERING
Starfish Ventures (%0 4453 0601; www.starfishvent
ures.co.uk; Th Thrayrong, Mu 6) runs four projects
in Surin that require as little as a two-week
commitment. The most popular is a nursing
programme where nurses or nursing students
visit village health clinics. Also available year-
round is a school development programme
to renovate and construct buildings; those
who can paint fun pictures for young children
on the walls are especially welcome. English
teachers for grades 1 to 6 can work during
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
S u r i n & A r o u n d 543
the school year (June to September and No-
vember to February) and a conservation pro-
gramme, mostly involving tree planting, runs
in July and August.
All work is done in surrounding villages,
but volunteers get private rooms in the pro-
vincial capital. Starfish also has volunteering
opportunities in other Thai cities; see Respon-
sible Travel (p45) for more information.
Tours
Pirom, at Pirom-Arees House (see below),
offers a wide range of tours, from a half-day
in Ban Tha Klang and the craft villages (per
person 1200B with four people) to a four-
day Isan immersion (per person per day with
four people 2100B) from the back of his Land
Rover. All the well-known Khmer temples
(and many others) are also available. Prices
are high, but the tours are good.
Saren Travel (%0 4452 0174; sarentour@yahoo.com;
202/1-4 Th Thesaban 2; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) offers
customised day tours in and around Surin
Province from 1500B. It is planning to create
audio-tour CDs for those who want to drive
themselves.
Sleeping
The hotels fill up fast during the Elephant
Roundup (and prices skyrocket), so book as
far in advance as you can.
Pirom-Arees House (% 0 4451 5140; Soi
Arunee, Th Thungpo, Surin; r 120-200B) The location,
1km west of the city, is a little inconvenient,
but the new setting for this long-time budget
favourite cant be beat. Simple wooden rooms
(all with shared bathroom) in two new houses
and a shady garden overlook an old flower-
filled rice paddy. Aree cooks some pretty good
food and Pirom is one of the best sources of
information on the region.
Ban Tha Klang Homestay (%08 1879 2773; per
person 250B) The price of this village homestay
programme includes three meals and a little
elephant time. For 1000B more you can spend
a whole day working with them.
Sangthong Hotel (%0 4451 2009; 279-281 Th Tana-
san, Surin; r 80-500B; a) This labyrinthine older
property is run with jet-engine precision by
smiling staff. The 125 rooms range from some
rachitic shared-bathroom cheapies on the roof
to large and comfy midrangers. Air-con starts
at 240B.
Phetkasem Hotel (%0 4451 1274; 104 Th Jit Bamrung,
Surin; r 690-850B; ais) Its a bit frumpier than
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
544 S U R I N & S I S A K E T P R O V I N C E S S i S a k e t & A r o u n d
the Majestic, but this reasonable midranger
scratches good-value terrain and features
Bond-villain-meets-Benidorm architecture
and plenty to keep you occupied, including
an adjacent movie theatre.
Surin Majestic Hotel (%0 4471 3980; www.surin
majestic.net; 99 Th Jit Bamrung, Surin; r 800-1800B, ste 3000B;
ais) This shiny new top-ender, which
sits right behind the bus terminal, has plenty
of extras, like a fitness centre. The rooms are
nothing special, but arent bad for the price.
Eating
Surin Chai Kit (no roman-script sign; Th Tanasan; dishes 20-
60B; hbreakfast & lunch) This no-frills spot whips
up a tasty breakfast try a plate of pan eggs
and Isan sausages. The owner wears a wel-
coming permagrin and speaks enough English
to guide you through the Thai menu. Its three
doors south of the Sangthong Hotel.
Petmanee 2 (%0 4451 6024; Th Munrasat; dishes 20-
80B; hlunch) This simple spot between Ruam-
phet Hospital and Wat Salaloi is Surins most
famous purveyor of sm-tam and ki yang.
The smaller original is around the corner.
Larn Chang (%0 4451 2869; 199 Th Siphathai Saman;
dishes 30-180B; hdinner) Tasty and low-priced
Thai and Isan dishes are served in an old
wooden house overlooking a surviving stretch
of the city moat, now known as San Rak
(Love Park), where couples come to hold
hands at night. The garden is great, but the
rooftop patio is the place to be. Its a shortish
walk south of the centre.
Farang Connection (%0 4451 1509; off Th Chit Bam-
rung; dishes 30-600B; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; ai)
Tucked away behind the bus station, and not
far from Surins surprisingly wild nightlife
district, this aptly named British-owned place
has a thick list of foreign favourites, like Cor-
nish pasties, weiner schnitzel and BLTs. The
liquor list is even more global, and the Thai
food is pretty good too.
Surins principal night market (Th Krung Si Nai;
h5-10pm) is just south of the Sangthong Hotel.
Two blocks west, vendors fronting the mu-
nicipal market serve until 2am. Both markets
whip up an excellent selection of Thai and
Isan dishes, including, as always, barbecued
insects.
Getting There & Away
BUS
From Surins bus terminal (%0 4451 1756; Th Chit
Bamrung) buses head to/from Roi Et (ordinary
Book accommodation online
l o nate lonelyplanet.com
lyplanet.com
50B, three hours, hourly), Khorat (ordinary/
air-con 93/130B, four hours, every half-hour),
Si Saket (ordinary 50B, 2 hours, hourly),
Chiang Mai (air-con/VIP 690/960B, 14
hours, seven daily) and Pattaya (air-con/VIP
321/626B, eight hours, nine daily). Most of
the frequent buses to Bangkoks northern bus
terminal (ordinary/air-con 248/342B, eight
hours) also use Surins bus terminal, includ-
ing 999 VIP (%0 4451 5344), which has a 24-seat
VIP service (495B, 9.30pm), but one company
has an office three blocks west by Surin Plaza
shopping mall.
If you are heading to the Cambodian border
at Chong Jom, where visas are available on the
spot, you have a choice of eight swngthew
(40B, 3 hours) or eight minibuses (60B, two
hours).
TRAIN
Surin is on the BangkokUbon train line and
there are nearly a dozen daily services to either
destination. A 1st-/3rd-class seat to Ubon (three
hours) starts at 140/31B; to Bangkok (eight
hours) 1st-/3rd-class prices begin at 346/73B.
Surin can also be reached by train from any
other station along the Ubon line, including
Buriram and Si Saket.
Getting Around
Surin is a very convenient city for travellers:
virtually everything you would want or need is
within a few blocks of the bus and train stations.
If you dont want to walk, samlw charge 20B
to 30B for a trip around the centre.
Pirom-Arees House, Saren Travel and
Farang Connection all rent cars, plus the lat-
ter has motorcycles.
SI SAKET & AROUND
LiultgdK
pop 42,800
Theres not a whole lot to do in the perennially
humdrum town of Si Saket, but a visit to the
Angkor-period temple complex of Khao Phra
Wihan (Preah Vihear in Khmer), just over the
border in Cambodia, is more than enough to
warrant a visit.
Information
Kasikornbank (Th Khukhan, Si Saket; h8.30am-
3.30pm Mon-Fri) Located south of the train station. Has
ATM and change facilities.
Si Saket Tourism Coordination Centre (%0 4561
1283; www.pao-sisaket.go.th; cnr Th Lak Muang & Th
lonelyplanet.com S U R I N & S I S A K E T P R O V I N C E S
Tepa, Si Saket; h8.30am-4.30pm) The staff are really
enthusiastic about Si Saket; pity the province doesnt have
more to promote. There are English-speaking staff on
weekdays only.
TP Internet (Th Ratchakanrodfai 3; per hr 15B; h9am-
10pm) Just west of the train station, on the south side of
the tracks.
Sights
PRASAT KHAO PHRA WIHAN NATIONAL
PARK
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Just inside Cambodia, and all but inacces-
sible from that side of the border, Khao Phra
Wihan (Preah Vihear in Khmer) is one of the
regions great Angkor-period monuments.
Straddling a 600m-high cliff on the brow of
the Dangrek (Dong Rek) escarpment and
accessed via a series of steep stepped naga
approaches, the large temple complex towers
over the plains of Cambodia, offering dreamy
views and some beautiful and evocative ruins.
Access, however, is a relatively confusing and
expensive business.
Claimed by both countries, the temple was
finally awarded to Cambodia in a 1962 World
Court ruling. But the only access is through
Thailands Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park
(%0 4581 6000; admission 400B; h8am-5pm, last entry
4pm), where a visitor centre (h8am-4pm) marks
the path into Cambodia and up to the temple,
about 1km away. On the Thai side you have
to pay 5B for a border pass (passports are not
necessary, but it would be wise to bring it
anyway in case things change) and just after
the border the Cambodian authorities collect
their 200B fee (total cost 605B).
On the Thai side of the border, the 130-sq-
km Prasat Khao Phra Wihan National Park
contains a number of sights that are worth a
peep before tramping over the border to Khao
Phra Wihan itself. Near the visitor centre,
which includes a model of the temple and
some interesting exhibits on its history, the
Pha Mo I Daeng cliff face features some fabulous
views and the oldest bas-relief in Thailand.
The relief depicts three figures, sitting below
a roughly carved pig (which might represent
Vishnu), whose identities are an enigma to
archaeologists and art historians. Although
they give the general impression of represent-
ing deities, angels or kings, the iconography
corresponds to no known figures in Thai,
Mon or Khmer mythology. Stylistically the
relief appears to date back to the Koh Ker (AD
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
S i S a k e t & A r o u n d 545
92145) period of Khmer art, when King Jaya-
varman IV ruled from his capital at Koh Ker.
The carving is on an overhanging section of
the cliff and is accessed via a walkway. Across
the parking lot is Nam Tok Khun Si, a waterfall
flowing over a cave large enough to hold an
orchestra. There is usually only water in the
stream from late June through October, and
you should visit with a park ranger because
it is assumed land mines are still buried in
the area.
Khao Phra Wihan itself was constructed
over three centuries under a succession of
Khmer kings, beginning with Rajendravarman
II in the mid-10th century and ending with
Suryavarman II in the early 12th century
it was the latter who also commanded the con-
struction of Angkor Wat. The hill itself was
sacred to Khmer Hindus for at least 500 years
before the completion of the temple complex,
however, and there were smaller brick monu-
ments on the site prior to its construction.
The temple complex is only semirestored
and the Cambodians appear to have little in-
terest in completing the job any time soon
which makes one wish the World Court had
found in favour of the Thais. During Khmer
Rouge occupation, which lasted until Pol Pots
death in 1998, the site suffered from the pilfer-
ing of artefacts lintels and other carvings in
particular although some of this smuggled
art has been intercepted and may eventually
be returned to the site.
One naga balustrade of around 30m is still
intact; the first two gopura have all but fallen
down and many of the buildings are roofless,
but abundant examples of stone carving are
intact and visible. The doorways to the third
gopura have been nicely preserved and one
(the inner door facing south) is surmounted
by a well-executed carved stone lintel de-
picting Shiva and his consort Uma sitting
on Nandi (Shivas bull) under the shade of a
symmetrised tree. A Vishnu creation lintel is
also visible on the second gopura; in contrast
to the famous Phanom Rung lintel depict-
ing the same subject, this one shows Vishnu
climbing the churning stick rather than reclin-
ing on the ocean below.
The main prasat tower in the final court at
the summit is in need of major restoration be-
fore the viewer can get a true idea of its former
magnificence. Many of the stone carvings from
the prasat are missing while others lie buried in
nearby rubble. The galleries surrounding the

NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
546 S U R I N & S I S A K E T P R O V I N C E S S i S a k e t & A r o u n d
prasat have fared better and have even kept
their arched roofs.
The area around the temple witnessed
heavy fighting between Khmer Rouge guer-
rillas and the Phnom Penh government, and
land mines and artillery pieces still litter the
surrounding forest heed the skull and cross-
bones signs around the temple and stick to
well-trodden paths everywhere else.
Getting There & Away
Route 221 leads 95km south from Si Saket
to Phum Saron 10km before the temple
via Kantharalak. Take a bus first to Kan-
tharalak (40B, 1 hours) and then pick
up a swngthew to Phum Saron (30B, 40
minutes); both depart every half-hour. From
Phum Saron youll have to hire a motorcycle
taxi to the park; figure on 200B return with a
couple of hours waiting time. A truck will cost
400B for four people. Drivers in Phum Saron
are well aware that visitors who have already
come this far are unlikely to skip visiting the
ruins and so hold all the cards in bargaining.
Hitching to the park is possible, but could take
a long time, especially on weekdays.
You can also catch a bus from Ubon Rat-
chathani to Kantharalak (37B, 1, every half-
hour) and continue from there as above.
OTHER KHMER RUINS
Thirty kilometres west of Si Saket via Rte 226 in
Amphoe Uthumphon Phisai, Prasat Hin Wat Sa
Kamphaeng Yai (admission free; hdaylight hours) features
four 11th-century prang and two whan. The
prang (including the main one, which was built
of sandstone but restored with brick) have lost
their tops, but many lintels and other carvings,
some in excellent condition, remain. The ruined
sanctuary can be found on the grounds of Wat
Sa Kamphaeng Yais modern successor.
About 8km west of Si Saket on the way
to Kamphaeng Noi, on the north side of the
highway in a temple with no sign in Thai or
English, is Prasat Sa Kamphaeng Noi (admission free;
hdaylight hours). Like many other Khmer ruins
in the area, it was built as a healing station by
Angkor King Jayavarman VII. These days it is
barely more than a pile of laterite blocks.
OTHER SIGHTS
Officially its Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaeo, but
these days nearly everyone calls it Wat Lan
Khuad (hdaylight hours), the Million Bottle Tem-
ple. In the 1990s the abbot dreamt of a prasat
Lonely Planet Publications
NORTHEASTERN THAILAND
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l o n eaccommodation
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in heaven made entirely of glass and he longed VIP services, but it does have shades to draw Getting There & Away
to copy it. Since that wasnt possible he did around your car so your wife doesnt know From Bangkoks Northern bus terminal there
the next best thing: he covered nearly every you are here with your girlfriend. Rooms are are frequent departures to Si Saket (ordinary/
surface of nearly every building, from the bt clean and colourful. air-con 314/423B, eight hours) stopping at
to the bell tower, of his current temple with SB Hotel (%0 4566 3103; 136 Th Anan Ta Pak Dee; r either the bus terminal or on Th Si Saket
glass bottles. The more you look around, the 250-550B; ai) The rooms are rather dull, but just north of the train station. There are also
less the name seems like an exaggeration. Its this family-run place with a coffee shop and regular buses to/from Ubon Ratchathani
on the west side of Amphoe Khun Han, 12km bakery out the front is very friendly. Its just (ordinary/air-con 40/59B, 1 hours) and
south of Hwy 24 via Rte 2111. south of the main street. Surin (ordinary/air-con 50/80B, 2 hours).
Wat Phra That Rueang Rong (hdaylight hours) is Kantharalak Palace Hotel (%0 4566 1085; 131/35- 999 VIP (%0 4561 2523), departing from the bus
another unusual temple. A previous abbot, 36 Th Sinpadit; r 300-550B; a) This place on the terminal, has 24-seat VIP service (610B) to
lamenting the loss of the old ways, built the main street through town greets you with an Bangkok at 7.40pm.
bt like an oxcart being pulled by two giant attractive wood-lined lobby, and then serves A 2nd-/3rd-class train from Ubon to Si
cows and created a museum (donations appreciated; very ordinary rooms, but the higher-priced Saket costs 29/13B (1 hours, six daily); from
h7.30am-5pm) with old tools, musical instru- offerings are the best the city has to offer. Bangkok a 2nd-/3rd-class train costs 281/147B
ments and the like from the provinces four (10 hours, six daily).
cultures: Lao, Khmer, Suai and Yer. Concrete PRASAT KHAO PHRA WIHAN NATIONAL There are about a dozen daily trains to
statues of people on the grounds wear tra- PARK Bangkok (2nd-/3rd-class 311/197B, eight to
ditional clothes, while oversized animals The park has a few new air-conditioned bun- 10 hours) including overnight express serv-
offer life lessons (lead a bad life and you galows (prices unconfirmed at time of writing) ice (1st-class air-con sleeper 651B, 10 hours)
might come back as a gorilla the next time and a camp site (per person 30B; 2-person tent hire 150B). departing Hualamphong station at 8.30pm
around). The wat is 7km north of town; take There are many restaurants across from and departing Si Saket at 7.30pm. A 2nd-/3rd-
a swngthew (10B, 15 minutes) from in front the visitor centre, and vendors in the ruins class train to Ubon Ratchathani (one hour, 11
of the train station. The last ride returns to themselves sell drinks and snacks. daily) costs as little as 139/13B.
the city at 3pm.
Sleeping & Eating
SI SAKET
Si Saket Hotel (%0 4561 2582; 384 Th Si Saket; r 100-350B;
a) Just a stones throw north of the train
station, this place isnt bad for the price. Even
the cheapest rooms have satellite TV great
if you want to have a TV party, though that
money would have been better spent on qual-
ity mattresses.
Phrompiman Hotel (%0 4561 2677; 849/1 Th Lak
Meuang; r 230-490B; ai) You wont get the four-
star facilities youd expect at first sight and the
fan rooms are a tad rough, but this hotel just
west of the train station still offers fantastic
value, which is why it is sometimes full.
There are several restaurants just north of the
train station and a big night market (h5pm-mid-
night) convenes immediately to the south. There
is a more varied roster of restaurants a little
further south, principally along Th Ubon.
KANTHARALAK
A samlw from the bus station to these hotels
costs 20B to 30B. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Rose Inn Resort (no roman-script sign; %0 4566 3310; restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Th Sinpadit Soi 1; r 250-350B; a) The closest lodg- only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
ing to the bus terminal (its about 1km away
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Bank) doesnt deliver on the signs promise of the above - Do the right thing with our content.