GIRLS ANU CHRILUREN 3s FAGES Allow +-in. for turnings on all seams. 29 FOUNDATION. Fellow the Instructions for measuring given on page 1 Back { Make 2 dot at Childs dot A don Chia’ arom 8 | Nine do, Nock measurement ES, So Gviermeerement | “pect do, Buse measurement Draw a line from dot A, through dot 8. co the required length forthe ‘Drese This is the Back Certre line Draw Shoulder line from dot I te dot 2. ‘Turn the Chart over ; pice curved arrow to dott, and curve to det A. Pisce arrow Fon Bust det 3, and curve to dot 2. Pace Corner 6 to the end of the Sick Centre line, and draw astaight line to represen the bottom Sfthe Dress The aes van inthe diagram. Draw a straight lie fom dot 3 1 the end ofthis ine Curve the bottom as shown in dagran. FOUNDATION FOUNDATION FRONT BACK Contre ine FRONT A Mola docst Neckmemrament—) Mamie e fo "Shideearow | iri, = Gaaie, me $5, Shoulder mcarvemere (| A23 do. Bust measurement sane Draw a straight line from dot | to dot B. Then continue this ine parallel Tnith the edge of the paper t0 the required length for the Dress hie isthe Prone Centre Tne Draw Shoulder line fom dot & to dot 2. Place arrow Fto dot |, and curve to dot A “Turn the Chart over, and place to dot 3 the Armbole arrow corresponding tote Bust measurement require. Draw round the urve to dot 2 Place Corner 3 tothe end of che Front Centre ing, an draw lie co the Tequired width for the bottom of the Dress. The sie Is given in the diagram Dawe 3 sraight line from the end of the Armhole curve tothe Tine.” See that the Front and Back Underarm lengths are alike ‘Curve the bottom as shown in digram. 2° wo 24° wider than acres the BUS Corner Ah 27 924° wider chan Icorner 1 ar0H8 the burt ofthis Fold of paper = = Hie § Underarm longth L 3° wider chan a Special Note —Where the leters B.C. ae shown, the Blue Curve on chat isto be used. ‘Place the BC: line on chart tothe point indicated on the drafting,GIRLS’ AND CHILDREN’S PAGES First Draft Foundation given below Material required: 2 yards 36-in, For gathers i “wider than aeron bust FOUNDATION Seepage | for Hearn Istrvton. FRONT Med Nek meramert pa ao eee ors, Shige A tree) EE a ec penton especie - 1 Draw ssragh ne from dot to dot 8. "Then conve tls ne pall eth" che agg of ta paper te she regurdeaghee s Th dn hn Carre Draw Shoulda ne rom dt A sot 2 Pics are to doe fad eur ba A, Tur Chae ver, snd pica to do the Armhole aro crretpending tothe ase measiTarnent required: che curve tose or hod Mae 3 ee 3, 5 inant of breas owing brea romana cine ace 3 Sed Soe) : FOUNDATION ones, Place Corner 3 to the end of the Front Centre line, and draw tine t0 the Ha FOUNDATION ‘aquired with forthe boom chthe Brea. esse gies ie eg idan £ Draw nati ln (rom the ed of che Armie curve eo the end of tne Ties "Ee the Fon nt Baek Unterar engeaeale, Care Measure the under lngth from dot 3 and uke a dt 2° nwa é Draw 0 singh tne rom dot 3 to thi and dpe tothe baton as leanne Ack Makes dota Ch’ du A Nek metcrome | honey a Slidmenneenene | Asc! = eee Draw ine tom doth evap dB, othe eguled length or the Dress “it Back Cones nd Draw Shoulder ine fom dot > dot 2. Tur the Chor overs pce cared arow to dot 1, nd carve © dot A Pace arrow Bae dec and carve dt 2 Plce Corer 61a the endo che ck ene. and dra aah ne 2 to 3° wey shan represen the toto ef he Bre The nae gee ne Segre Suis ere Draw t serge he from dot 3 to the end of ts ne, Cure shown, Pao 2x nae Now measre the underarm length from doe 3 and make a dot ¥° Innere ams tly = Draw 2 straight line from dot 3 t0 this 2° dot and slope to the bottom 38 Shown In diagram,GIRLS and CHILDREN >s FAGES (Continued) Allow #in. for tarnings on all seams, » tin. Collar. AG. 3) COAT SLEEVE (Add 1” to Sleve Wrist Measure) Pace long straight edge of Chart on edge ‘Sr purer (blue carte on let) ‘Make a dot st Chis SI Do, Chis Slee De. Sleeve Armhale 7 measurement 3 Measure 2° coche left of dot 3, make a doe Sh number te 4 Pace brotd arrow to dot 2. the bive curve fo touch dot |, and draw curved line fom tt “Turn Chart ever pace Bross aerow on Gos and curvets dt “Turn Chart again, place Brosd arrow © Sleeve an cove to dor 4 ‘ace Corner 6:9 dot | (Chart srigh) Sd dea straight ie ca lenge reared ind mk the end of hie oo Make a dot che cere of the tne and Sunber Face Ch’s Elbow arrow to dot 6 (Chart SSsipe), and’ ake a doe ae Elbow mmesiroment, ark thie dot A face Corner 4 dot te edge of Cart ovtouch dot Av and mae dot at Gua Slore ben arrows, Mark es Sac and drew vow ine rom AtoB Measure 1” from A onthe Elbow line ad mak ae Pace Corner 4 to dot 3, and draw curved line to dot AL Phe orner co doc and draw to. Pace Sleeve arrow | to dt 8, and curve to dot | Move Chart down, place Sleeve arrow 1 eo do 5 an6 curve to B Pace Chis Enow arow to dot 5 (keep Chart srg) and make SS Cone Wrst mesorenenes Mane sh aot Draw straight line from doe 5 to da D. Measure Ii” from do D on the Writ ie, and mark Draw a stright lin from D0, and from Eto. {Gut and open 11" tthe bottom ewer tan iw COLLAR FIG. 31 COUAR FIG. 32 Ths drafting shows Coxe length. For long. Cost at lu trated, (Fg, 32) TW wider than acrow the bustInstructions for Drafting Child’s Coat Sleeve (page 31) (Add |” to Sleeve Wrist Measure), Place long straight edge of Chart on edge of paper (blue curve on left) Make a dot at Child's Sleeve arrow | measurement 3 Meature Iy° to the let of dot 3, make a dot and umber ic 4 Place broad arrow to dot 2, che blue curve to touch dot I, and draw curved line from 2 to I. Turn Chart over, place broad arrow on dot 2, and ‘curve to dot 3, Turn Chare again, place broad arrow to Sleeve I, and curve to dot 4, Place Corner 6 to dot | (Chart straight), and draw Straight line to length required and’ mark the tend of this line dot 5, Make a dot in the centre of the line and number it 6. Place Child’s Elbow arrow to dot 6 (Chart straight), and make a dot at Elbow measurement. Mark this dot A, Place Corner 4 co dot 6, the edge of Chart to touch dot A, and make a dot at Child's Sleeve bend arrow. Mark this dot B and draw Elbow line from A to 8. Measure | from A on the Elbow line and mark it C. Place Sleeve arrow I to dot B, and curve to dot | Move Chart down, place Sleeve arrow | to dat 5, and curve to B. Place Corner 4 to dot 3, and draw curved line to dot A. Place Corner 4 to dot 4, and draw to C. Turn Chart round, place Child’s Elbow arrow to dot 5 (keep Chart straight), and make a dot at Coat Wrist measurement. Mark this dot D. Draw straight line from dot 5 to dot D Measure |” from dot D on the Wrist line, and mark it E, Draw a straight line from D to A, and from E to C. SLEEVES The fixing in of sleeves in the correct position is of the greatest importance, and the directions given below should be closely followed. See below) actos distribute the fulln fullness into pleats (4 or 5), starting in fr 6-in, to 7-in. from the seam at the back. For METHOD OF FIXING Hold the garment with the armhole towards you, and pin the sleeve in (for position of seam, the underarm. Keep the armhole towatds you, and ‘or plain, slecre inthe space of Bin. to bei down the back. For leg-o"-mution sleeves on pages 13 and 10, arrange the font 4-in. from the underarm seam and Enthing leg-o'-matton sleeves on pages 8 and 10, commence Sin. from the seam in font, finishing 6-in. atthe back, each pleat to tun about Mn ie le . down the front from the shoulder seam, POSITION OF SEAM FOR SLEEVES ON PAGES 9, 13 and 17 (except Fij 14). Measuring from the underarm seam of of the garment, the position of the sleeve seam is 1}-in. to 2j-in. towards the front, with the hollog part of the sleeve to the underarm, PAGES, 3, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12 and 28.—Measuring from the underarm seam of the garment, the position of the sleeve seam is j-in. towards the front. The hollow part must come to the'front, PAGES 17 (Fig, 14) and 23.—These sleeves are Raglan styles, and the method of fixing in is to fix the sleeve to the dress or coat before machining the underarm seam, PAGES 11, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25 and 27.—Measuring from the underarm seam of the dress or coat, the front seam of the sleeve must be placed 3-in. to 34-in. towards the fron, the hollow part of the sleste to the underarm of the garment. CHILD'S DRESS AND COAT, PAGES 30 and 31 (Fig. 29).—Mecasuring from the underarm seam of the garment, the position of the sleeve to the front, GIRL’S COAT, PAGE 31 (Fig. 30 the sleeve must be placed 2-in. to sam is in. towards the front. ‘The hollow part must come Measuring from the underarm seam of the coat, the front seam of -in. towards the front. The hollow part to the underarm of the coat, COAT COLLARS When fixing the tailored collar to the coat, the fitting line must be placed j-in, below the Siting ling of the coat neck. Slightly stretch the collar to the co: |. below the neck fitting line, with high stands are put on Fur collars are not to be put on tightly.» Collars28 CHILDREN'S PAGES. Follow the Instructions for metuting given on page 1 FOUNDATION. BACK, Make 2 dot at Chil dot A oo. Draw a line from dot A,, through dot B, to the required Teagth for the Dress. "This is the Back Cente line ‘Draw Shoulder line from dot 1 to dot 2 ‘Ter the Chart over; place curved arrow to dot 1, and curve 0 dot Ae Place arrow F oa Bust dot 3, and curve to dot 2 Place Come 6 tothe end of the Back Cente line, and draw ‘Z straight line (© represent the bottom of the Dres. ‘The size i given inthe diagram. ‘Draw a straight line from dot 3 t0 the end of this line. ‘Curve the bottrn a8 shewn in diagram, FRONT. Make 2 dot at Neck, Measurement Chile's B arrow oo. Child's A “srrow So. Shoulder measurement Ps But Dray right ine fry ot to doe Then cotiue oe pra! with he ee of he rape ote reed ieoett ithe Dress font Centre line Draw Shoulder lie from dot A to dot 2 lace arrow F to dot 1, and curve to dot A. ‘Turn the Chart over, and place to dot 3 the Armhole acrow ‘ereponding the but mesarement qua Dr ‘Place Comes 3 tothe end ofthe Front Centre line, and deaw Tine to the required widch for the betiom of the Dre. ‘The size i given inthe diagram. ‘Draw a staigh lie from the end of the Armhole curve, 0 ‘the ead ofthis line. See tht the Pront snd Back Under sem Tengths are alike. (Curve the bortom st shewn in diagram. zou “To obtain fat collars, place shoulder lot f foundation together and shape an diagram. Put Sleeve Allow 4 in. for alt tarnings FOUNDATION FRONT FOUNDATION Tie wider than te 2'wider han serene the bust PARTY DRESS,30 e "Bieat® Allow } in. for all turnings. four SL Bt wider than seroee the burr FIGURE 29 CHILD'S COAT SLEEVE (Add 1 jas. wo Sleeve Wrist Measure) Plc ng sat et of Chart on ee of per (ue cre Make a doe at Child's Sleeve sow 1 [Number these do. ™ Chis Sleeve 2 cots do. Steve Armboie measurement3 J 1, 2-and 3. ‘Measure 2 in. te the left of dot 3, make a dot aad number it 4. Place Broad arrow to dot 2 the Blue curve to touch dot 1, and ‘draw curved line from 3 10'1- “Turn Char ove, place Broad arrow on dot 2, and curve to dot 3. ‘Turn Chatt agin, place Broad arrow to Sleeve 1, and curve to or Place Comer 6 to dot 1 (Chart straight), and draw straight line 9 ength required aad mark he end of this fine doe 5 ‘Make a dot ia the centre ofthe line, and umber it 6. Pace Childs Elbow arrow to dot 6 (Chart straight), and make a ‘dot at Elbow measurement. Marc this dot A. Place Corse Ito dot 6, the edge of Chat o touch dot A, and male ‘fot Chile's Sieve bend arrow. Mark this dot B, aad draw ‘Eibow line om A to 5. ‘Measure 1} in, from A on the Elbow line ana mark it C. Place Comer 4 to dot 3, and draw curved line to dot A. Place ‘Corner 4 to dot 4 and desw to C- ace Sleeve arrow 1 to dat B, and curve to dot 1 ‘Move Chart down, place Sleeve arrow I to dot 5, and curve to B. Place Child's Elbow accow to dot 5 (keep Chart straight) and make dot at Coat wrist measurement. Mark this dot De Draw stright Kine from dot 5 to dot D. ‘Mearuse 1p in. from det D on the wrist line, and mark it E. Draw a staight line from D to A, and from E to C. Special Note :—Where the letters B.C. are shewn, the Blue Curve on chart is to be used. Place the B.C. line on chart to the point indicated on the drafting. COLLAR Fig.29 ALTERNATIVE FRONT Yor, Fig. 29 ALTERNATIVE COLLAR Fig.29 tt Orr sf on x emer tr y"GIRLS’ AND CHILDREN’S PAGES cconnnweo) First Draft Foundation given below. Material required : 2 yards 36-in. 32 Tengen +4 wired LE a ok aa Bt Nekemmrerene i Sse seoeen | s, ray igh in rom ott odo Then cen hs pre ‘Fi ithe Fone Comes teres nh FO Draw Shoulder line from doe Ato dot 2. Pc arrow Fto dot Iv and carve to dot A ‘Turn the Chart ever, and place to dot 3 the Armholesrrow corresponding £9 ‘he Bunt pestuemene required, Draw round the cre to dot 2- Frac Corner 3 to the end sf the Fone Canre line and daw tne to the ae Se oe Sse Dice ine tan aren ake P ee 4 i Drvgeeit he fom te cod of ce Arla carve othe and of sit : ST Seren sas Game gases Cove : oe Hi press = taacre tne nde gh rom dot 3.and mae a dower Leg OME, eee Bre seinem Sosa mete oSatarom Gp FOUNEAT FE sack E keg doc at Os coun do Ghd arom 8) Sunt Stelter | EIS SMe rere | Seat @& Riemauenen ) ‘raw a tine fram dau A tvough dot Bo the required length for the res, Tete tae Book Cane ne ee Draw Shoulder ine fom dot Ifo dot 2 ‘Torn the Chore over splice curved arrow to dot I, and eure t0 det A 2 ta} wider than Place arrow Fon Bust dot 3 andeurve to dot 2 erors the but Pace Corner 6 othe end of te Back Centr ine, nd daw astral tne t0 ‘epresene the baton the Brest Te regen i the agra igh ie from dot 3 tothe ead ofthis in Carve a shown. rhe underarm length from dot 3 ard make dot J” Inward Draw 2 sralge lin fram dot 10 the J” dt, an slope fo the bottom a ‘town i dupa 2° v9 24° wider than rot the bust2 GIRLS’ AND CHILDREN’S PAGES Br Y ‘Material required: Dress and Knickers, 24/24 yards 36-in 2 KICKER, FG. 3 Cue on crost of material COAT, FIG. 32 Draftngs are on pare at A Seeger Manag rc Draws wih Enea, "Thong het ate saa Pane Sub ete et ‘Tarn Share ovr ore a ESTER oe ron conrezendig tobe Evite oben tow Wang cad wow row fre to 30} So Peers tte tee tracee ator ae ee he Fronew Bad Under engi se aha: Carve Required length iiss irom dot broths fe 2° 3" wider than crore he bust 2° tw 3° wider than across the a2 7 GIRLS’ AND CHILDREN’S PAGES Material required: 2 yards 36-in. Pen 5 at bottom for fare ur and open 5* a bout for fare —) Cutan TF wider Tan iar inet me) ane so ogeemer™ ) e, Q & eitins z = hse | ok Dray argh in ro dot wo dot 8 Then enn ie tne al "withthe edge ofthe. paper to the required length for the Dress. ‘hie tethe Front Centre Tite y raw Shoulder line from cot A to dot 2 Place arrow F'to dot Ir and curve to det A “Turn Chart over, and piace to dot 3 he Armbele arrow corresponding to the Bust measurement required, the curve touching dot 2, and make a dor FounpaTion * Ein rom of bond sSow"UnngWrod wren cee ace 3 and Da i dot 3, it || FOUNDATION Place Corner 3 20 the end of the Front Centre line, and draw line to the ay He eRonr ‘agured wth forthe bottom of She res "hese ges Ww Se él I oem Hil 2 Dac ina i i iho all HE Tins Se atthe Frost ind ak Undtrnengi ae lles Ca 3, ie as shown, 4 Measure the underarm lngth from dot 3, and make 2 dot 3 inwards. Draw stig line fromdot 3 to thi dot and slope fo the botiom as Shown im dag, Required length BACK Make a doc at Childs dot A don Child's som 8 ls 5 2, Neck measurement : ae Shoulder 5 ao, Buse measurement Cone Draw 2 line rom dot. though det B, co the required longth forthe Dre. “nts nthe Back Cener ing = Draw Shoulder line from dot to dot 2. Turn the Chare over; pice carved arrow to det 1, and curve to doe A Blac arrow Fon Bunt dat, and carve to dot Face Corer 6 tothe end of the Back Cenere ine, and draw a straight ine to represen the bottom of the Dress The see given In the diagram. Draw’ straight line from dot 3 to the end of this ine, Curve st shown, Now metre the Underarm legth fom So and make» oe 4° inward rma sigh line from dot Sto thir” do, and slope to the bottom as “Shown i diagram, . corner 4). FP wider than across buse TB" wider than soon the Bae~~ INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING FOUNDATION PATTERNS FOR LADIES’ a AND CHILDREN'S DRESSES, AND TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE ‘The Draftings in this booklet are the Foundation Draftings of the designs in our Illustrated Drafting Books. .All our designs are built up on these Foundations. For, Instructions for Measuring NECK.—Place the tape round mile of neck easily. ‘Then adl'ipin othe menureman (en for ear) SHOULDER.From prominent bone at back f neck point cof shoulder bane. From this deduct Tin. Qin for clare). LENGTH (ak) is mere aka ro the re bone ae che bask of the neck to the langth required forthe gorment. LENGTH. (Front)-—From the neck In front to he eogth required for the pormene (analy 1 Tete than back lange, harem HE, BUST.—Stand at she back of the person being mensured. ase the tape Yound ths flere porto the buses date up under Eis serif round. For large burt ates) clove measure, and refer to special notes below 'HIPS—Round the hips 7m. below che waist line, ex UNDERARM.—Plce tape dove up under arm and measure to novel wae. SLEEVE ARMHOLE.—Pace tape cose up under the arm and tke messuremert sual found, meaning over the shoulder Bene "SLEEVE LENGTH —From front of armpit to wrist tine with ‘hum, arm slighty bent SLEEVE ELBOW.—Plce tape round elbow bone, Then bend arm and take mensurement Found. easy. SLEEVE WRIST.—With hand outstretched, and thumb und ath the palms savor round ehicest pare of he hand tight WAIST. —Measure round the wast wall down, not too tightly. SKIRT LENGTH.—Measure from the normal walst to the required langeh and add-in. for Petersham Belting. 945 DRESS, Neck ShOUEEF nnn Length (ack). Length (Front). Hips. Underarm Length SLEEVE. Sleeve Armbole... Sleeve Length Sleeve Elbow Sleeve Wrist SKIRT. Water Hip. Front Length Table of Proportionate Measurements ADULT'S By x By CHILD'S tt eter te foo, te tt ie OO e Wee a wee Loe wo oe Joe mea ase wn tO SPECIAL NOTES FOR FULL FIGURES, SQUARE SHOULDERS, ‘AND STOOPING FIGURES When taking measurements full figures must be measured closely round the bust ; but when cutting out the material it is advisable to give a little extra fullness over the bust. For stooping figures give d-in. extra widthat thecentre of back, and arrange the extra width at the neck into fine tucks 2pin. in length. Also JHin. should be added to che length of the back shoulder ; the back is then eased on to the2 “Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3, ‘and Coat Sleeve Two Shes of white paper are required—one for the Front and one for the Back size 20° by 4S" or over. PF ot oral the pattern down the length of the paper, commencing at the top. / Jt. BACK OF FOUNDATION Prac the Chrt on the paper with the lng straightedge towards For Hips Line, ern the Chart over t0 the bac Yoo, find the lect” edge'on the eget the paper, Gtodat kineaure down and maxendar (fora gures Make Joan” Neck do A a econ, ator ecue ‘oe — ace Corner co the Buck Comers tn szrighe edge 32. Neck measiramens SE, «MOG Clare ouching the doc jut males Bote ain on do. Shoulder measurement Rane srner 6 equal in length to 3 of the hips measurement less I*, fo. Buse measurement Somat Makes dot atthe end ofthis line and number fet Draw straight line from dat A, through dor B, coche required Teigth of the Bret. This he Bak Carer Lines Draw the Shoulder lie from doe | to 2 For the Neck carve. Turn the Chart over co the fron and place carved trow on doe and draw £0" Ac For Armle care. Place arrow Fon the Bust dot 2, with the Sie carve ofthe Char wo your lee, and draw to doe corte nonronana are pics on deh oe recede) Now mur the {shoulder ruse and" econson a Jt yard raw the nas at shown in Sagar Forthe Underarm. Hse draw 2 dotted line from oot 3,t0 ot 4 “Then mark the length, and this point meazue (* Inward ged make s doc Noes” Draw argh oe tom dot Sco dot 51 and a smlar line from dot vo doe 4 ‘Ascertan the wieh required for the botcom of the Dress (che ‘ih i ven nthe dngram) and draw scraghtinets Sh veh CContinve the Underarm line co tha required length, and shape the ‘octom ae shown im dlgram, “Tie gies the Pn Foundation Back. Fora line and dar, flow nga. FRONT Place the Chart on the paper with the long straight edge towards ousand thn Finckand edge on the sige afte ter Make a dot at Neck mestarerent doy B arrow edge of chart fr Bust ) ‘measuremencs “up fo. and Se tetanehee hear anien | A arrow respectively. | = pews Draw adored line from dot I to dot B, or Cs asthe caso may be Wucinte ater de Cth ia on fe onto toner ‘Than draw seraigh line to the required Ores lengeh, hs itthe Fone Canetti “ Draw dotted Shoulder linéfrom dot A to dot 2. For bus 0" andovc ake ad" tthe of ot 2 aow ‘ora hn ng Fa Ne Gorm er so ie et cae Gee For emf ue, (Gu ramets 240 0°) Tar he reer th bat eg Sse Sear tnd pic fo ot, the Armhcla tro coretpondtg rath Sontmetcrarent seta ther tae aed ik aa SSeEy ase Forall measurement, still keeping the chart inthe same position, measure 4" n front of Broud sfrow inthe direction the arrow Points and make dot. Place Broad arrow to this doc and draw Eurve to end_of shoulder line, then turn Chart over, pice Broad arrow to the end of ine slrndy made and curve touot 3. ‘Ths completes the Armhote curve, For Hips Line. Place Corner <0 2t2, ease 3" down and rt dot. (For tll hgures 14° down) Turn the Chare over to the iront, place Cormer 3 to che Cantre Tine he long serighe edge ofthe Chart souching che dot just trade." Det ales rom Corser} eqal in engehto Se ips measurement plis |". Make » dot 3¢ the end ef this line and umber let forthe Underarm. First draw a dotted line from gt 3to doc 4 thon mark the fangth anda ths point measure |= inwards and ‘make'a doe Ne. 5: Draw a straght line from doz 3 to dot 5, End's ine from dor $ to dot 4 ‘Ascertin the widen required for the bottom of the Dress (che wth even i the diagram), and draw a wright ine oot Continue che Underarm line to the cequced length. ‘Now meature the Underarm tines of Boch the ack and Front patterns, the Back maze be taken a8 the correct length and ke Frone made f0 ngree Shape the bottom ofthe Dress as shown in diagram. ‘hit gives the Plain Foundation Front Fors fat fing andar, follow diagram snd compete the For Shoulder dare. Extend the shoulder ine at the neck, and 50 the front cenre line. Make a new neck in and the shoulder ‘ire following dagram on page 3 Pace long rsight age of Chars evel with che ight tand ed ‘ae ape etcave cn our way ne ene hand oe Mate 4 dot st Sleeve arrow | PS do. Sleeved aos, de, Sleeve armhole measurement 3 | {S'uad. Place Sleeve arrow | to dot. the yellow curve to touch dot 2 and araw curved dotted live from dot Ito 2 ‘Turn Chare svar, place Curved Arrow to.dot 2, and continue otead line to J. Pace corner 6 to dot (keep Chart straight) and draw a sight Tine tothe required longeh, and mark end of this line Got 4. rake a detin secre hin, nd puter Sf pepe).am ate 2 ont eho mene tat Ene dox A." (For tong Coats make the doe | to the Fight of ihe Elbow, measur) . i orner 4to,dot Pr Draw dotted line from dot 3 t0 A. ‘Tarn Chart round, place arrow K to dot Band draw curve to do | ‘Move Chart down, place arrow K to dot 4 and draw to dot 8. TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE ‘Turn Chare again (blue curve on your let), place Elbow arrow t0 “ot 4 (hoop Chart sraigh), and make 2 dot ac Writ meature- ‘mont. Far Costume Cont make the dot yo the right. (For Cour” to the right. Mark this dot C~ ‘Draw a sraight line from dot 4 to C, and from to A. Forhe Underarm, new mearure 2" tothe lle of 683, then drop Pind mark dot D. Meature Ij” from A to the left on the Elbow line, make 2 dot and mark Measure 1 fram Cc the let on the Wis Ine, make a dot and Place 1” arrow to dot I, and draw dotted curve to dot D. Now ‘measure §” below arrow E inthe direction the arrow points nd make'a dot. Place arrow & to this dot, and draw to dot Pace arrow € agun to the dot and draw to within 2” of doe D. Draw a dotted line from D to E, anda line from E to F. Mark che contre of the two upper ines, and make a dot 2° to ‘the right. Draw curved line as shown In dagram For top of sleeve curve, make a dot 3" above dot 2. lace broad Taurve to Sleeve | and Sas shown inDRESS FOUNDATIONS and. COAT SLEEVE FOUNDATION BACK Tests and or ls FouNpaTiION FRONT (Ful ere) for all dratnge 40° butt and over feu sy FOUNDATION FRONT No. 2 Ox * z 3 _\ i a4) Pres aE Fan ein arpa inl eed ne Fl) Saad ta hate to 5 PSSM cny Bf | ancien shat t "pae Sees ‘The Tome shoulder mo ba bretchod to the tak. 4} | Box topes rage ‘se anderar, Wa fered bodice Inwanted, dares are made inthe was §) | icine acres ects ? mand trihe Fer fl Reve 1 abil to we he 1 i 5 viet nr de Rea le Geert ctu tae has hacrorm length when draftng and ake UP the dare gradesung 3° n length* CHILD'S FOUNDATION and COAT SLEEVE BACK OF FOUNDATION pegening, je line Set. lees 2 See ae 4, Bes mesiremene, Draw‘ line from dot A hraugh dee B, to che required length for he Dre, Ths the Bate Cente line. Draw Shoulder line from det tte dot? Turnthe Chareover © pace curve arrow tdot.andcure vo dot, ce arrow Fon Bust dot 3, an curve to ot 2 Makes srige died Ine rm dor 3 he length required fr the Under Mensre tate let, draw the Underarm line to dot 3, and make 2 ‘origi line serous or the Was hace Eonar ta the nd fe Back Centre ine and raw a raight Tine to represent the boom ef he Ores The wah even Im the dgran Draw seping ns fom ond of the Wals ine to the bottom, sha shape Se shown i agra FRONT tke a occ Neckar Gigs" s wow Numeer, Sawn kare , SULA MStenen (EAL Ie tether Draws iraghe ne from det | to doc A. Then continue this ine pall wih the edge ofthe paper tothe require! length for Bre Dress Thee the From Canere line Draw Shoulder Kine frm dot Ato dot 2 Face arom Fta dat and core fo dot “Foen Char ver, and lace tc do the Aro arrow eoresponding fe the Base mesurerne regulred, the carve touching dt nd drow’ doted tne rom dot ea doe Wakes doe fl rene of Bron rrow (for cma hid). Place road vow to this tan draw Armas oot Zand dot Makes stright docad line fFom dot. 3, che Underacm length easure "0th right and draw the Underarm line to dot ‘ake 9 sigh doted ie trom to the Frome Centre Iine, ‘mesure |" down ano tothe Underarm Ta ves th Pace Comer 3 the and of he Front Cenere end draw tne the equired with forthe bottom ofthe Oreste sven In the SSpram Draw a opin ine from the end of Wat line the botam, See ‘he the Front and Bak Underarm ine retain Tenge Shapethe batons own nage. Eager TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE ice long sight das of Charo rignchand dy of per (lve crv on let Wake cee ae Chics Sleeve, row | doo Chile's Slave 2 chase dots __ Siceve srmbcle, meauremene3 | tr and 3, Pace bread arrow to dot. he blue curve te teuch dot I and draw curved line from 210 |. ‘Turn Char aver” sace Breed arrow on doe 2 and curve eo Sot Place Corner 6 to dott (Char straight), an dra seraighe ine to length requited and mark che Sod of tis ine oe 4 Make‘ dot nthe contre ofthe ling and number 1S. hice Chis Eleow arrow eo dot's(Chare srg), ond make a dt a Elbow measurement. tow 2 t ht ark Prace Carner + 9 40% 5, the edge of Cart to touch dot A and make a dot & Che's Slave end arrow. Mark ei dot Band dew leow ine from Ato B co doe and draw curved ine to dt A. “Tara hare round place Corre Place Sleeve arrow to dat By and cave to doe ove Chart down, place Stave arrow I ts doe 4 and curve to. ‘Turn Ghat again place Che's Elbow arrow to 464 (Keep Char tale), tnd make 3 dot at eae West measurement. Mark tir got C Draw sige line from fot 4todet Can froin Ct0 A, For the Underarm tow messue Io the let of doe, then drop 4° and mark dt O. insure If from A onthe Elbow line and mark ie Measure 17 trom dot © on the We linn, and mark RF Pace Broad arrow co Sleeve | sd curve to dor by Place Corner 4 0 det D and draw to Draw s srg ine from Eta Care ne 3 wider than wat He Comer Wistine fa Mier wo tne leecrert tess than back length For top of sleeve curve, make a dot} above dot 2 (Armes 14° and over). Shrew fo this dot apd curve to dot ‘Shows In dagraypoe eg INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING FOUNDATION PATTERNS FOR LADIES’ AND CHILDREN’S DRESSES, AND TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE ‘The Draftings in this booklet are the Foundation Draftings of the designs in our Illustrated Drafting Books. All our designs are bullt up on these Foundations. Instructions for Measuring Name IECK —Phace the tape round middle of neck, easly. Then pin to the measurement (lin for clan) SHOULDER —From prominent bone a back of neck zo point Neck of shoulder bore. From tht deduct yin. (tim: for eaidren) LENGTH (Guck)—This meatre is taken from the sme bone Should a the back ofthe heck to the lange required Tor the farm LENGTH (Frond)—From the neck In font to the length eneth (ac) required for the garment (usally T]* Test than bade Wgth —— Lengeh Front Saeed oye eermene oety Th BE. Lengch (ron) nn BUST.—Stand at the back of che perton being measured. Buse Pas the ape round the files pare of fhe unt Coke Up nde DRESS, arms, straight round. For large busts tea airy clove meature, Hips. : tnd refer to special notes below. ” e HIPS.—Round the hips, Zin. below the waist line, easily Underarm Length (in. for children). UNDERARM. Place tape close up under arm and messure SLEEVE, 10 normal walt ava aii, SLEEVE ARMHOLE—Place tape close up under the arm and take measurement caily round, measuring ever the shoulder Sleeve Length bone, SLEEVE LENGTH —From frone of armpit to writ intine with Sleeve Elbow thumb, arm slightly bert SLEEVE ELBOW.—Place ape round elbow bone. Then bend Sieve Wrist arm, and take measuremene round, eal. ae SLEEVE WRIST.—With hand outstretched, and thumb under= i neath the pale, measure round chickest part of the hand tightly, j wae son sof WAIT.—Meaure round the walt well own, nt 100 itty. pp SKIRT LENGTH —Mensre from the normal waist tothe } required length and ade et for Peersham Boling” Front Length nen | ‘Sven Tarn mere apn co ae Table of Proportionate Measurements ADULT'S CHILD'S we ey 6 Neck Shoulder bust Hips Amica. ‘Bow = Went || Neck Shoulder ue woe ae a aC me we 9" ae een Ya. oe C ee woe. Bie Booey aa ie a iy oe we we Se wT ee a a de tee wo £ ma won eo oP Bef ae ease we voy 7 SPECIAL NOTES FOR FULL FIGURES AND STOOPING FIGURES ‘When taking measurements, full figures must be measured closely round the bust ; but when cutting out the material lt Is Sdvisable to give a little extra fullness over the bust. For stooping figures lower Dot 3 in the back drafting S-in. and give {-in, extra width at the centre of back. Arrange, the extra width at the rieck into fine tucks 2/2h-in. In length. Also j-in. should be added to the length of the back shoulder ; the back is then eased on to the front shoulder. mInstructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3, and Coat Sleeves ‘Two Sheets of white paper are required—one for the Front and one for the Back—sie 20° by 45° "Wen ESE pattern down the length of the paper, commencing at the top. BACK OF FOUNDATION Fae the Charan the paper wih the long sug ee cowards Yous and.the lekchand’ edge on the edge of the paper. Make a doe 26°" Neck dot A” do. "Dot 8 do, Neck measurement So. Shoulder: measurement Go. Blut mensuremene Draw a strat line from dat A, shrough det B, to the required TWagth of the Dress. This isthe Back Centre Line. Draw the Shoulder line from doc | t0 2. For the Neck curve. Turn the Chart over to the franc and place ‘ved arrow on dot I, and draw to d For Armbole curve, Place arrow Fon the Bust dot 3, with the ‘blue curve of the Chart to your ltt, and draw to do! 2. ‘or bntmeuuremanee and ove pace Aero Hon dor ane det 602) RGw'mark the f shoulder raze and 4° extension at dot 2, and “draw the lines 3 shown In diagram. For Hips Line, turn the Chart over to the, back, pce Comer eiSisaeSe messure 1 down and makes doc. (Por al ures 14° down’) Pace Corner 6 to che Back Censre line; the long straight edge Sr Ghe Charc touching the de just made, Draw 2 ine fram Corner equal in lengeh to 4 ofthe hips measurement ess 1". Saie's docac the end of he line and number 14 For the Underarm. First draw a dotied line from dot 3c0 dot 4 “Then mari the length. and at this point measure 1 sawards Thee s dot Nor Draw a trai line from dot 30 doe BS tnd slo line from dot 5 to doc 4 [Ascertain the width required for the Bartom of the Dress (che Si is given inchs diagram) and draw zstaigh line to this h ‘Continue the Underarm ine tothe required length, and shape the Totsom a shown In diagram “This gies the Phin Foundation Back. For wit line ane dart follow diagram. FRONT Pace the Chart onthe paper with she long stright edge towards our nd the rigiobad cage on the edge ofthe PAPE. Make a dot at Neck messurement BoB Serow edge of chart for Buse fmeuurements up to and | nasane do. Shoulder measurement ) = do. —_-Buse measurement Draw a dotted line from dat | to dot B, or C, as the ase may be ‘Giri ofdgttetng mote contd mee). von awa straight line £0 the required Dress length. “This Waetront Cane Lines - Draw dotted Shoulder line from dot A to det 2. For buses 40" and over, make adot {* tothe lef of dot 2 10 allow for Dart, ar shown in dlagram For Neck Curve. Place arrow Fon dot I, and make dotted line round the curve to A For Armhole Curve, (Bust measurements 24° to 42.) Turn the Sire th back hn eal eo Sra place to dot 3, the Armhole arrow corresponding to the burt'measuremene required. Then draw 2 deceed line from dose deel or Ba er Br crf ate Bons Agee, then ork TWO-PIECE COAT. SLEEVE Pace lang straight edge of Char level withthe righthand edge “the pape (one curve on Jour ke . Make a dot Sleeve arrow | ) gambar do Sleeve | Ass Ss. Sleeve armbole measurement 3} _isSiant3 Phace Sceve arrow | to dot Iy the yollow carve to touch dot 2 Sod drawcord dated line rom set to Tort Chart overs place Curved arrow to. Jot 2, and continue dotted tn Pca corner" cs dot | (keep Chare straight) and draw 2 straight Tine to'the reuired lenge and mark end of this tne et 4 tate’ Soci hence fe nan srie Fite Btw arrow co doc 9(Chare pall with righthand i paperyan rakes douse tow ramen Se hE dora Por tong Cant make the dos fo th righe ot the Elbow measure) race Corner 4vo dot 3 the edge of Chat to touch dot A, and rake dot ie Slewve bend stow. Park tvs dt By and raw Elbow ine trom A to B. Draw dotted tine fram dot 319 A. ‘Form Charcround, place arrow Kto dot Band draw curve co dot Hove Chart down) place vow K ko doe 4 and deaw to dot. Fara Chart again (ae carve on your la), place Elbow arrow to “das leep Chare ssigh), and make eu at Wis FOR COSTUME AND LONG COAT For all measurements stil keeping tho chart in che same position, ‘meazure 2° infront of Broad arrow in the direction the arrow ointasnd makea dot, Place Broad arrow to this dot and draw Phe to end of shoulder ine, then turn Chart over. place ‘Bond arrow tothe end of line already made and curve todot3. ‘This completes the Armhole curve, For Hips Line, Place Corner 6 0, dot 3, measure [3° down and make a dot. (For tal figures 14" down.) Torn the Chart over to thefront, place Corner 310 the Centre Tne he long sralgh ode ofthe Chart touching te dot ust Made Bree stirs form Corner 3 equal in length co the Nips measurement plur 1" Make a dot at the end ofthis Tine and mnumber ie. For the Underarm, First draw a docted line from dot 3 to dot 4 inen mark the iengch and at this peine measure 1*iowards and weer asc Ne Se Draw a straight line from dot 3 to dot 5, Ind similar line from dor $ vo doc 4. ‘Ascertan the width required for the boxtor of che Dress (the mide is given i the diagram), and draw a sraghe lie co ¢his wih, ‘Continue the Underarm line to the cequired length [ow measure the: Underarm lines af both the Buck and Front Wrtteres, the Back muse be vaken as the correct length and fhe Front made to agree, Shape the bottom of the, Dress as shown in diagram. ‘Ths ives the Pain Foundation Front. Forte ng andar, fellow dgran a6" comple che ating For Shoulder dart, Extend she shoulder linea che neck, and alo che rome conse lines Makes new neck lineand the shoulder ‘dares following diagram en page 2 measurement. For Costume Coat mae the dot fro she right. (Gor tong Gone oto she right) Mark this dot C- Draws sig tine from dot 4£0,C, and from © 00 A Parthe Uderarmy now messore 2" tthe lef of 433, then drop 1d mark doe. Medute'IE from Ato the left on the Elbow line, make a dot ind marie IE. (For long cow 15) Measure Tf tomy Cte he ef on the Writ line, make » dot and mark (ef, (hora long coat 1). Pace {arrow Go doc Iv and draw douted curve to dot D. Now Srekaare’s! below arrow Einrthe direction he arrow poines Traine dot, Pace arrow Eto this dot, ang draw to-do | Pike arow again to the dot and curve to within? of dot D then complete the tne Drawn dotted fine from D to E, and a line from E t0 BM fhaScenere at the ewo upper ines, and make a dot A 19 ‘he right Fora long coe fom the ota in and excend 1 see Sraw carved lines 36 shown im the respective dagen for tah a ee cre othe abl of mera bl "ie dagram for saeve raise and mark the metsurement above toe 'Biazebroudartow co hiseot and complete the curve a6 Showa ineapective dngrams, The Long Cont Seeve ven Mehe tuted Beck & Bratings. ": DRESS FOUNDATIONS ‘and COAT SLEEVE FOUNDATION BACK. FOUNDATION FRONT contr tne Front Contre ine bog . | f 24°] wider than bips line 24°13" widor than hips tne FOUNDATION FRONT No.2 | | j t | et | % at i i 4 ' 2 Shomingputrn openeé I ‘ a Oa estar t z Cane Ine Bosse 47° nd over FRONT (ull gure) for ail drakings 40° buat and over Tamara Toe Sader Toe Was ine © serie 7 wecrancn if drhing, a6 ke op te ive tvaune tn sm underarm dart For all Coat Sleeves make the rase sbove Dot 2 Armbole mesures aie 5" and 15) Ni le . ie4 CHILD’S FOUNDATION and COAT SLEEVE BACK OF FOUNDATION vane pew gaa 8 te sowguret, ) ams, oe S Aebbnewtonen | Aga, £ SS | Noa 2 . do. Bust measurement % Oe Draws line fom dot Ay through doc By to the required length for ‘she Dress the Bask Cener lin Draw shuler ine frm dot | to dot, and ‘ae at shown in dagen Tun theCharcover; plc cored arow to dt and curve tod A, Face Broad arrow on Buse dot 3 and carve to doe Fale a rrlghe dotted line rom dot 3 che length required for the ‘nderarm, Measure to the le daw the Underarm ine to dt 3, and make 3 ‘edhe line sero forthe Waste Place Corner 6 tothe end ofthe Back Cantreline and draw a seraght| i Tinto represen the bottom of ee Dress” The width f en In'he diagram Drawn spit ln from end of che Wa it eo 6 boom, Place 10 fod FOUNDATION FRONT Centre Seber tee lel with the edge ofthe paper ta the required length for {fe Drom This se Front Gente line ‘raw Shoulder line frm dot Ato dot. Pisce atrow Fea doc Isang cue to dot A, Turn Char aver and pared 3 the Arihole arrow corresponding to the Burt measurement required, the curve touching d5t Sd daw a dota lin rom got 3 doe Make's dot fin front of Brosd arrow (fe for sal cid). Place Srond arrow to this dot, and draw Athol new doc Pand get 3 thd shape 5shown In gran. | Sf an FRONT | | $ hte pao eh mmr) ane t i * as ESOS aeramene {BAZ and 3 z ‘ $2, Bisememuremene "ripen 7 5 Draws sright line om tf co dot Then continue ti ne 2 wider than a¢ Doe 3 Mesrured" co the night ard draw the Underarm line to dot 3 comer ly 24* wider than at Dor 3 ake "a srighe docted tne from dot 3, the Underarm lent m4 ihe doced tne f Bethe Uy ath leat Make a sraght dotted line serve 20 the Front Cenre line; Besare Leos and daw tthe Underarm Th ges the Place Corner 3 othe end ofthe Front Cenre in, and draw line che Feguited width for the Bottom ofthe Dresr a given In the Sagrom Deaw'a foping line from the end of Waistline to the bottom, See the the Frone snd Back Underarm ines ae equi ange Shape the botom shows in lngram TWO-FIECE COAT SLEEVE ae ong weight. def Chars om rghhind edge of paper (ue curve on et) ike 2 doe t Childs Sleve, arrow | ‘Number don Chis Sleeve 2 shete doce Go. Sieeve armete, measurement 3 | I 2, and 3 Place broad arrow co oud, the blue curve to touch Got, ard dave curved line from 2 to I. ‘Turn Chart aver, place Broad arrow an dot 2 and carverta dat Pace Corner & co dot (Chart straight), and draw sraghe ine to length required and mark the rdf this fine dot 4 7 Make'a dot in the contre of the line and number i 5. Place Childs Elbow arrow to det 5 (Chart sralght), and make a doc at Elbow measurement ark the Soe A Phce Corner 4 do 5, the edge of Chart touch dot A, and make dot at Chil’ Sleave tend arrow Mar this Cot Band draw Elbow ie trom Ato Be Turn Char round, pice Corner 4to dot’ an draw carved lin doe A Place Sieve arrow i to dot 8, and curve to dot fe Home chart doa, pce Sena sew Sot 4 and carer 8 urn Chart agai, place Chilé's Elbow arrow to det $ (ke Chart straight) and make a dat st Ecrewhstaasrsmens. Markcindose Cw? oe Draw srigh ine from dot # to dor Gy an rom C to A for the Underarm now measure If" tothe lee of ot 9, then drop f° and mark det De Heasire 1" trom Aon the Elbow tne and mark E- ease |" from dot © on the Wrist line, and mark fe Face Broad arrow to Sieve I, and curve to dot Dy Pace Corner 4to dot D an daw 10 € Drow a straight ine fom € 0 F For top of sieve curve, make a dot $7 above doe 2 (Armoles 14° and over {°). Pace Bros ‘row to thi dts snd eave odo Tad 3a how giaCHILD’S FOUNDATION and COAT SLEEVE l “Two Shcets of white paper are required—one for the Front and one for the Back—sixe720" by 30° or over. Neck to wale FOUNDATION” BACK, Pace to fl Maine Required langth ConereTine 24° wider thant Det 3 Draft the pattern down the length ofthe paper, commencing at the top. BACK OF FOUNDATION Make a dot at Os dot A umber do Ghd som 8) hese coe do. Neck memurement A, Bi, Dand3, 42. Shoulder measurement | vespetvly So. Sos menuremene, Draws ine fcom, doe A trough dot 8, tothe required length for ‘he Drove. Tha isthe Bek Centre nes Ns Draw Shoulder line from Got | dot Band raise $a shown tn ‘gram Turn the Char over; place curved arow to dt, and curve to dt A. ace Brond srow on Bese dot and cure to end cf the shoulder ne. + Now manuf fom Ath legged om neko wa nd from this olne draw a straight line seross forthe wa para with doe 5 : Haken sraght dotted line from dot 3&0 the wast, thea mesture Eto the lee and draw the Underarm ine 9 Cot, Phce Corner és the en ef the Bach Centre line and raw 3 straight line to represen the bottom of te Dress The width i glen Inthe diagram Draw'a sloping line from end of the Wast line t0 the Botton, and shape as shown tn eagram FOUNDATION FRONT « J 4 FRONT Js tne Me str do * Chess arom pamer, SS Retteuaenee™™: | "reine Dro rage tne rom dt fo de 8 Then corti hie rae withthe edge ofthe paper to tie requlred length oF {he re above Ff Shorter han te bal Toe Fone Centre ne ‘Draw Shouler line from dot A to dot 2 Place arrow fo do and curve zo dot A “Torn Chart over. and pace to do 3 the Armfole arrow corresponding tothe Bust mensurementrequred; the curve touching dot 2 ane raw dotad ine rom dot wo Got Makes doe 8” n front of Brond arrow (° for small eid). Place The shove drafting gives pearemene ofa "vat jengch requred. This measire- mene snot uken where an under: frm length ieused TD Broad arrow to this dot and draw Armtole line to dot ard t> aoe. Make ihe dared ine rm dot to ges in legs wth he ick ndersrm line Measure Us the eghe and draw the Underarm ing co dot 3. Make 2 sersighe doted line sero to the Front Centre lin, measure 4° down, and draw to the Underarm. "This gives the Bee NOES cancer mearac ain wath seven nthe agro Draw’ sloping Ine fom she end ofthe Walt line tothe bottom and Shape a shown n agra TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE COSTUME, Add 1+ to Wrie misre ure ding. TENG CGat “ade |?05 miele nd Eso ony at 2° Writ maar bore dring- Place long straight edge of Charon righthand edge of paper (bus curve on let ake 2 doc 3 Child's Sleeve, arrow | ‘Number ‘So. Chile Sleeve 2 here date 4a, Sieve armhole, mescuromene3 | dy and 3 Pace broad arrow to de 2 the blue curve to touch dot ly ad draw curved line rom 3 tL ‘Turn Chart over, pace Broad arrow on det 2, and curve to doe 3. Pace Corner 6:5 doe 1 (Char straight), and draw straight line to longth require and mark the end ofthis ine dot 4, Make a doc inthe canere ofthe ine ane number 5. Proce Chil’: Elbow arrow eo doe (Char saigh) and make a dot at Elbow meayrsront Mark his dot A. Pace Corner 4to dot 5, the edge of Chart to taueh dt A and makes dot at Chics Soave bend arrow, Mart this dot B and draw Elbow line from A cB. Turn Ghart rounds place Corner 410 dot 3, and draw curved line to dot As Blce Sleeve arrow 1 to dot Band curve to ot | ‘Move Chart down, plac Sova arrow 1 co dot 4 and cure to B, Turn Chare again place Chas Elbow arrow eo dot 4 (keep Chart straight), and make 2 dot at Coat Weist measurement. ‘Mark thi dot ‘Draw straight line from det 4 to dot C, and from C xo A For the Underarm now measure If” tothe left of dt 3, then drop 4° and mark dat D. Measure If" trom Aon the Elbow line ard mark Measure |” fram dot Con the Writ line, and mark iF. Prace Broad strow to Sleeve Draw s straight line trom Eta F a For top ofslcre curve, make a doc 3" above dot 2 (Arboles 14" and over 3"). Pace Broad arrow tothis dot, and curve te ets and 3 shown in dagramInstructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3, and Coat Sleeves on Page 4. Two Sheets of white are requlred—one for the Front and one for the Back size 20° by 4° or over. ‘Dratl the pattern down the length of the: paper, commen ” ‘at the top. BACK OF FOUNDATION Pace the Chart on she paper with he long straight edge cowards You, and she lefchand’ edge on the edge of fhe paper Make toe" Neck dot A : do" “bor 8 fo. Neck measurement de Shoulder: mearuremene $2: Buse measurement Draw a straight line from dot A, through dot B, to the required Tengah ofthe Dress. This Ts the Back Cencre Line Draw fhe Shoulder line from det L.to 2 Forthe Neck curve. Turn the Chart over to the front and place curved arrow on dot I, and draw so dor A. For Armhole curve” Bust measures 36° and under—place Brosd ‘arrow en the Bust dot 3, with the blue curve of the Chart to raw to dot 2. acannon a dat and ‘raw the lings a shown In diagram on page 3. For Hips Line, turn the Chart over to the back, place Corner ‘Geo dot 3, measure 13” down and make adot, (For ell igures 14° down} Place Corner 6 co che Back Cenere line : the long straight edge ‘of the Char: touching the dot just made. Draw a lite from ‘Corner @ equal in engch so 4 ofthe Kips measurement ear 1" Mae's dot t the end of this line and number fe 4 For'the Underarm. Free draws dotted line frm dot 3 t0 dot 4. ‘Then mark the length, and at this point measure i” inwards and make a dot Now 3, Draw a straight line from dot 30 dat 5°» anda similar line from dot 8 to dot 4 ‘Ascartain the width required for the bottom of the Dress (the weige sven In che agra) and draw a straight linet this wv CContinue the Underarm tne to the required length, and shape the ‘bottom at shown in diagram. m “Tuis gives the Plan Foundation Back, For waistline and car, follow diagram. FRONT Place the Charton the paper with the long straight edge towards ‘you, and the right-hand edge on the edge of the paper- Make a dot at Neck mesturement do. Barrow edge of chart for Bust ‘mescuremente up co and incucing "2 Nene (rer Bowmen Bind oe mae | SEE fo. Bot a arrow Anse? Go. Shouider measurement Go Biscmessuremane Drains om doe oot orth ee my a eS fs ote apo Bra ge To Inthe fron Contre Lines Dw dated Sherine om do Ao do 2. Far Nace ure Poon ee ons sad Fak dred Ue ead St Sorta ForArmise GaN meerement 247042") Tarn he seer a taint tits Soe gt ig npc ow ot, the ilo ero rao ose inner copied Ther ee ate The bok SNceT seems fers tale ees neem Fo sitet pig inch npn meg tocol acates Wim unece eres acorn Place Broud arrow to thie dovand draw ‘curve to end of shoulder line, chen turn Chart aver, place Broad arrow co the end of line already made and curveso dot 3. This completes the Armhole curve. For Hips Line. Pie Corner 6 to doe 3, measure 13° down and make 2 dot. (For tall fgures 14" down) Turm the Chari over co the fron, pla Cornor 3 to the Centre ne long straight edge of the Chart touching the dot fst Draw ane rom Carner3equa in legit 4 the hips made. measurement plus I". Make 2 dot st the end of this Line and umber es For'the Underarm. First draw a dotted line from dot 3 to dot 4, hon mark the urderarm length and at this pote mestre | inwards and ake doe No, 5 Draw a serait line fom S5r o doe $ and sma lie rom soe Sto do Ascertain the wide required for te bottom of che Dress (the ‘wise von Inthe Wagram), and draw a serigh lina fo ths wath Conte the Underarm line to the ceuired length. ‘Now measure the Underarm lines of both the Bask and Front astern, the Back most be taken asthe correct length snd fhe Frons made to agree, Shape the bottom of the-Dress as shown in dagram. “Tht ges the Pain Fundacion Front. For aise fising and gat follow agra on page 3 Fer Shoulder dae Bxcend the sheer tine the neck and ‘ako the front conve ling. Make 2 new neck fine” and the Shoulder dary foloving the diagram. For pn shoulder with ng drt or tues follow the diagram for Foundation Front Nev? s the for of page 3 TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE FOR COSTUME AND LONG COAT Drafting on Poge 4. COSTUME, Add |* so Wrist messue before drafting. TONG COAT Add {° eo Armbale and Elbow measure, 202° to west measur before drafting Pace long straight edgo of Chart level withthe righthand edge ‘of tha paper (blue curve'an yeur let), Make a dot 3 Sleeve arrow | 1 ders, ds. Stoeved fees 5, Slesve armhole mesturemene 3} Sani Phce Sleeve arrow | fo dot. the Yellow curve to touch dot 2 snd draw curved doted line rom dot | to'3, TurgChare over. lice Curved arow to dot 2, and continue otzed line to 5 Place corner 6 to dot 1 (keep Chart straight) and draw a straight Tine the required lenguh, and mark end of this ine dot 4. Make's dot n the contr ofthis line, and number cg Eb raw gets (Car all wih rh de ‘t paper) and make s dot at the Elbow mesturement. Man thi'doe A. Place Corner 4 to dot 5, che edge of Chart to touch dot A, and ‘make dot at Sleeve bend arrow. Mark this dot, and draw Elbow tine from A to Draw dotted line from got 3 to A. ‘Turn Chart round, place arrow K te dot Band draw curve to dat Move Chart downs place arrow K to.dot 4 and draw to dor B ‘Farm Chart again (ue curv on Your le) place Elbow arrow f ort a ep Chae sgh td ake» dor a Wri ‘measurement. Mark this dot Draw a straight line from dot 4 to C, and from C to A. For the Underarm, new messure 2” tothe left of dot 3, then drop {Fand mark doe D. Measure Ig" from A to the left on fand mark WE. (For long coat It) Measure 14” from C tothe left on the Writ line, make a dot and mark 1 (For a long coat) Pace + arrow to dot I, and draw doted curve to dot D._ Now ‘meusire ;” below arrow Ein the direction the arrow points tnd make'a doe. Place arrow E t9 chis dot, nd draw to dot | Place srw E again to che docand curve to within of dot, then complete the line, Draw a dotted line from D co E, and a line from E10 F. Mark the centre of the two upper lines, and make 4 dot 9° herpes For long coat {onthe outer ine and exon aeidot 3 fingri, For top of sleeve curve, refer to the table of measurements below che gngram for eve rasan mark themeasraren bore feet Hie broadarrowro tind an complete he rv Shown in respective dagrams, ‘The Lor ieve is given in the Iurersted Book ef Oratngs. . Elbow tine, make 2 dot ‘Draw curved lines as shown In the respectiveDRESS FOUNDATION DRAFTINGS Spectl_ Front, drafting for the Poller igure, Burts 408 and over FOUNDATION BACK FOUNDATION FOUNDATION FRONT fr the Puller figure Tow front cane Tine Required fngth hips ples Required length Shir centre ine 24°/3° wider than bp ine corner 1 2/9" wider thea hips ine corner 3 wider than hips line Corner 1 FOUNDATION FRONT NO. 2 | Showing pattern | The shove drafting shows 14°/14° added to the underarm opened: and port. | length ving txtra front length tothe bodice and the amount fon of dare allowed is taken up i” an underarm dart. For full Busts an ‘ditional menturement cn be akan from the bone a the back : 2 ofthe neck, over the shoulder co the cantre front at wait '§tghcy. Measure the pattern in the same way, frst pinning ‘Guc the paternonche dood = & the shoulder lines together, and lower or raiso che wast ine Tine and open atthe under ees paper across 1S gqcesnay. Then adj the underarm inthe éat drovancl dot |e inline wth ‘he back of opening and draw |" necessary. Then acjst the und a dou to. obean 2 sraghe in the dart front centre line ‘Continue for skirt. as foundation ron above4 FOUNDATION DRAFTINGS for COSTUME COAT and TWO-PIECE SKIRT Drafting instructions for One-piece sleeves ‘The draftings on this page form a bass for che coat and shire drafting in our ilurtrated books, and Hines of the design Slected shouldbe added. No wats ting legen In the cost. The rever le fora single breast ‘one, but other sys canbe Substuted, aking the measurements from the front centre line, For sll Cost Sleeves make the ‘alte shove Dot 2. Armbale messuces aise Aegutred lengeh hips lose 3” ‘The drafting aren page 2 ps lass 3 DRAFTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR ONE-PIECE DRESS AND COAT SLEEVES Refer to the diagram in illustrated book whon drafting Commence 8" from the tp ofthe paper and make the doteed armhole mesturement line a shown in diagram. Mark che centre and make the sieve raise as given. (Vf drafting che hall sleove co a fold of paper, mark the sleeve rase on the fl). Draw the dosed line or lines fom the top ofthe sleeve rise tthe end of dotted Armole mensurement ine, and mark the shore rls In the contre. Draw top of sleeve curve as shown In diagram, Place the Corner of Chare to the centre of srmbole Nn a righe-angles, and draw 2 doted tne the required length for sloeva. if rafting to 2 fol, mark the slave length on the fold). Draw the dotted line across forthe slesve wriatand dram the sde lines then complete the draking 3s diagram shows SKIRT FRONT Required length Back eure Tne 2° PRY wider than hips tne 2/25 wider than hips tne corner 4The “Haslam” System of Dresscutting BOOK OF Instructions for Measuring NECK —Place the tape round middle of neck, easily. ‘Then al Tinto the Teaaurement (is for childen)y SHOULDER.—From prominent bone at back of neck to point at shoulder bone. ‘From this deduct Bicin, (in for Sildren LENGTH (Back).This measure is tacen from the same hone atthe back of the neck to the length required for the garment LENGTH (Front) —From the neck infront tothe Tengsh soured for me gerne 'BUST.—Stand atthe back of the perton being measured enh pe und fa pt oe bs soe pee rma, aaight round. Por age busts ake ¢ close measure ideter thins on inside back cover, THIPS.—Round the hips, Tin. below the wast line, easily UNDERARM. —Place tape close up under arm and smenoure to noel Wait, SLEEVE ARMHOLE. —Place tape close up under the sim and take meavirement rounds meavuring over the Shoulder bone SLEEVE LENGTH.—From ftot of armpit to wrist ia line with thumb, arm slightly bent, SLEEVE ELBOW.—Place tape round elbow bone. Then bend arm, and take measurement round. SLEEVE WRIST.—With hand outstretched, and thumb underneath she palm, measure round thickest part of the ited, wah. WAIST.—Measure round the waist well down, not too SKIRT LENGTH.—Messure from the normal waist t0 the required length and add I-in. for Petersham Belting. DRAFTINGS Name. Clacet Laey SLEEVE, Sie dette hag 13, soles. | Sleeve Length Sleeve Elbow. Sleeve Wrist SKIRT. Waist Hi Front Length Back Length Compare your measurements with those in the table of proportionate measurements below, and if ‘any great variation, measure again to make absolutely sure that your measurements are Table of Proportionate Measurements CHILD'S DRAFTINGS ADULT'S DRAFTINGS Neck By Shoulder Armioie Elbow Wane a * & a oa oS % * # rg a: r iw of" te ae w Cg Sleeve Sleeve Sleeve Amide Etter = Waar 1 wy Fe i? i i Uy iy it # Fg ie * i is ° Fi iv a2 Full Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3 “Two sheets of whitepaper are required one for the Front and one for the Back—size 20° by 48° or over. ‘Dra tie ances Gown the length of the paper, commencing atthe exreme ob. BACK OF FOUNDATION Place the Chast on the paper with the long straight edge Aowands you aid the lefchand edge on the edge of the paper Make doe at Neck dot A" 0." Dot Barcow Nenbe do! Necle measurement eton So. Shoulder measurement ae Uo Bust measurement Draw a straight line from dot A, through dot B, to the required Tenth of the Dress. ‘This is the Back Centce Line. Draw the Shoulder line from dot 1 to 2 For the Neck curve. Tusa the Chart over to the front and place cureed arsovw on Jot ly and draw to dot A. For Armhole curve, Place arrow F on the Bust dot 3, with the ‘blue curve of dhe Chart to your let, and draw to dor 2 (Per Bust memnroment over 40° pase Aro Ho dt 8, and drew 0 seen ie ae eee poe es or fee ine ser Oe ee ges Sere a ree ee ay mete eae eee me ee ones nica oe Sra eae Aiea eaten apa eas sistietiane mneteie ee sociga ges raees aes dee cinfeaispechiadane Tangri pep tcc percnies eee cee “The foregoing instructions give the plain foundation shown on page 3. The foundations giving waist fitings are on age 4. FRONT Place the Chart on the paper with the long stetight ed ous you, cad tae Fighhand edge on she edge of ts pepe Make's dot at Neck measurement do. Dot B arrow for Bust measure: Tenteuproandinctading 2” | — None ‘Bot A arrow Ean ee eanamen | tn do, Bust mesrarement raw a line from dot to dot B, of C, a the case may be (but ih the case of doc C the Line must be made 1h” longer). ‘Then draw a sight line co the aquired Dress Tengeh. ‘This is the From Centre Line. Draw Shoulder line from dot Ato dot 2 For Neck Curve. Place arrow F on dot 1, and curve to dot A. For Armhole Curve. (Bust measurements 24" to 42") Turn, the Chart over to she back, the long straight edge to Your [ef and place to dot 3ythe Armahole arcow corresponding to the buat measurement requifed. Then draw a line %, Sock, For Bust measurements 43" and over, the method of ‘drawing the curve is Taher silferent. "Place 48° 10 48" Strow 1 dot 3, she Blue Curve touching dot. Draw curee from’ dot 2 to Broad. Assow. chen turn Chart over to the front and place Broad Arrow to the end of the line alteady dawn, "Complete the curve 09 dot 3. For Hips Line. Place Comer 0 to dot S, measure 13° down ‘and'maie a dot. (Por tll Sgures 14° down) “ue the Chart over to she front place Corner 3.9 the Gene aight edge of Touching the dot jure mades "Bravtline ftom Corner 8 equal i Kength 0 Whe hips measurement plus 1" Make a dot a the end of this tine and number it For the Underarm. First draw a line from dot 8 to dat 4y ‘dhen mark the Lengeh and at this point measure 3” inwards land make a dot No, 5-Deaw a straight line from dot 9 {fo dot 8 anda similar line from dot Bo dot 4. [Ascertain the widdh required for the bottom of the Dress ‘Gee table of widchs on page 3),and draw a suaight line 10 this wih Continue the Underarm line to the required length. Now measure the Underarm lines of both the Back and Front patterns, and if they do not exactly correspond, the Back: Rlust be taken as the correetlenguh and the Frome made to saree, Shape the botiom of the Dress as shown in diagram, "rhe foregoing instructions give the plain foundation shown o page 8. The foundations giving shoulder fullness ad es "and waist fiinge ate om page 4 TWOPIECE SLEEVE FOR DRESS AND COAT. Place long straight edge of Chart on edge of paper (blue ‘curve on your left) Make a dot at Sleeve arrow 1 Peron do. Sleeve 2 1 soe. Go. Sleeve armhole measurement 3 ft Sant. For a Drees Sleeve measure 21” t0 the left of dot3 (ot for « ‘Goat measure 2") Make a dot and mark it. lace Sleeve arrow 1 t0 dot 1, the yellow curve to touch dot 2 ‘and draw curved Hine fom dot 1 102 ‘tum Chant over, place Curved arrow tw dot % and draw ‘Curved line from dot 2 to 8. “Tuen Chart again, and place Broad arrow to dar 1, and curve fo dot b conmpste motmaremeata ove 17 place | atow to dot 1 and earve Place comer Oto dot (keep Chae straight) and dravia straight ine tothe requited length and mark end ofthis line dor 5 Make s dot in the contre ofthis line, and number it 6. Place Elbow arrow to dot § (Chart straight) and make « dot ‘St the Elbow measurement. Mark thls dor A. For long Goats make ie dot |" to the right of the Elbow measure Mark this dot A. Place Corner 4 to dot 6, the edge of Chast to touch dot A, and ‘make a dot at Sleeve bend arrow. Mark this dor By and draw Elbow line from A to B, Measure fora Dress sleeve 2" feom A on the Elbow line. (For a Coat sieeve mensure 11”) Make dot and marie iC. ‘Draw a straight line from 3 t0 A, and from 410 C. For Coat Sleeve make a dot in the centre of each ling, and ‘another dot }'to the right, Draw curved lines as shown in diageara on page 29. Place Sleeve arrow 1 to dot Band draw cutve to dot 1 Move Chart down, place Sleeve arrow 1 on dot & and draw to ‘dot Be Place Elbow arrow to dot 5 (keep Chart seraight), and make “Sdot at Wrist measurement. Mark this D. For Costume ‘Chee malke the dot j" to the iphe, and for a Long Goat 1" tothe right. Mark this dot D. Draw a stright line from 5 to dot D, and from D vo A. Measure 2" from D on the Wrist line (for a Coat Sleeve 1}°) ‘make 2 dot and mark it E- Draw a straight line from dot E to C.Centre Tne Required eng FOUNDATION Back Underarm lengeh DRESS FOUNDATION & SLEEVE Allow }-in. for all turnings Dee oy FRONT Centre tine Eps + Ir Required length ae WIDTHS FOR BOTTOM OF DRESS ‘The mesturements on the diagra Se Inches hip menur x For 38° i for 3 dros of pe Incroae to 11” back, 13)" front ite he ir ny a is ie Siegve DRESS SLEEVE: Special draeing for foundation front with Shoulder dart for burt 4" and over Dot ¢ is for 43° Busts and over ‘Thefrone shoulder must bevsereiched to fe te Bick ee “Concnue to requred es lengthDRESS FOUNDATION (with Alternate Neck Lines), SLEEVE 4 Allow tin, for all turnings Oe FOUNDATION (@ACK and FRONT) with shoulder dare and rate fing (For alternative necks te below) back mie his def ssaing necessary EE Underarm length Required length Note widths for bottom of Dress are ven "on page 3 ‘The front shoulder | must be siretched fof the back FRONT BACK For Round and ‘Square Necks. ‘Square Neck. tructions for Drafting Blouse and Dress Sleeves (pages 4 and 5). Fold a sheet of Drafting Paper to half wideh Leave a 1” margin atthe tap, and make a det on the fold—mariete dot 1. Then messure from dor | 440 (or oF BE) down, mn dt, ad mark Draw from dot 2 2 line scrom the paper, equal in Tergth to half the armhole measurement les 15” The end ofthis line mark 3 Make a dot halfway across this line and mark Ie 4 Make a dot 44" (or 43") above dos 4, and mark ie 5. ‘Then draw aline rom one tothe other. Make a dot 2" above 4, and mark Ie 6 Place broad arrow (on front of chirt) t9 dot | on Daper and curve t0 8 Place curved arrow t0 dot I, and draw to 6, Place curved arrow to dot 5, and draw #9 3, Turn hare roynd an plc carved tro to dot and sleeve pais " Now measure from dot 2 he sleeve length, and make ‘doe 7 Note (he flowing applies only to the BlouteSleeve)— Measure now for the width (this should be made |” les than” the stralghe line drawn from 2 to 2), and ‘draw a line sero from 7. Make 3 dot and mark ee Join 3 and 8 ae chown In dagram, Make the Wrist curves sto 38 shown in diagram. “Trace chrough the lines for back and front of sleeve before evting out, For 17° Armbole and over BLOUSE SLEEVE Trace through fs the lines. tor Baek and front Before eutingThe “Haslam” System of Dresscutting BOOK OF DRAFTINGS Instructions for Measuring NECK tlace the cape sound middle of geek cel. “Then add jr fo the Measurement (Ii. for chides) SHOULDER. Fem pominen bone ot be of aac. point of shoaidce Bone: "Erom this deduct Sin, (in. for Eallen LENGTH (Bacl).—This measure is taken from th bone at the back ofthe neck to the length required for the garment LENGTH (Fonti—From the neck infront tothe Tength sequired forthe garment ‘BUST. Stand atthe back of the perton being meatuted. Past the tpe ound the fulen ptt te unt clove wp ondee ound: For iage busts take s clove feaauce, SUD efor eg hints om inne bac cover ‘measure on normal walt SLEEVE ARMHOLE,—Place tape close up under the arm and take “measucement sounds mearuring over the ‘Ghoulder bone. ‘SLEEVE LENGTH.—From front of armpit to wriet in tine with thumb, aem slighty bent. ‘SLEEVE ELBOW. Place tape ound elbow bone. ‘Then hen arm, and take measurement round. SLEEVE WRIST.—With hand outstretched, and thumb uandemeath the palm, measure round dhickest part of the handy tightly. WAIST.—Measure round the waist well tightly. SKIRT LENGTH.—Meaaure from the normal waist to the sequived length and add Tin, for Petersham Belting. Compate Name... DRESS. Weck. Shoulder .. Length (Back) « Length (Prom. Hips ‘Underarm Length SLEEVE. Sleeve Armhole ...ssse+0) Sleeve Length « Sleeve Elbow Sleeve Wrist SKIRT. vr measurements with those in the table of proportionate measurements below, and {any grew variation, mensure again to make absolutely ‘re that jour messurements ar¢ Table of Proportionate Measurements ADULT'S DRAFTINGS Neck Base 1a ar a a s ae is 1 ae" ie 8° a0" 1 i a 13 5) a is 8h ae CHILD'S DRAFTINGS Neck Shoulder Bost wy me a % He me at a 2 5 ce aFull Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern and Dress and Coat Sleeves on Page 3 ‘Two sheets of white paper a equired—one for the Front and one for the Back—size 0° by 48” or over. ‘Draft she Fatirn down the length of the paper, commencing af the extreme top. Place the Chart on the paper with the long steaight edg Towards youy and the lefchand edge on the edge of the paper. Make a do at Neck dot A Sor" Doe Bacrow, Renter Ge Rekmemwement | 4 BP eas Go. Shouider meanarement eee 30, ose measurement fraight line from dot A, throwgh dot B, tothe required length of the Dress. This ie the Back Centre Line Draw the Shoulder line from dot 1 to 2 For the Neck curve, “Turn the Chart over to the front and ‘place curved screw on dot Iy and deaw to dot A For Armhole euzve, Place arrow F on the Bust dot 3, with the blue curve of the Chart to your let, and draw to dot. cra memes ea 4 lac Ar Hom 3 a rato BACK OF FOUNDATION For Hips Line, wien the Chart over to the back, place the ‘Corker @'ve dor'2, messure 13° down and make » dot (For sail Gauces 14 Place Corner 6 to the Back Centre line ; the long straight Mige of the Chart touching the dot just mader Draw a ine tom Conner 6 equal in length to | ofthe hips measure. feat le 1") Make a dot at the end of this line and ‘number fe 4 For the Underarm, Figst draw a line from dot 8 co dot 4. “qhen mack the lengthy and a this point measure 1" inwards nd make a dot Noro. Draw a straighe line from dot 3 fo'dor 85 and-a siiar line from dor 8 to dor 4. [Ascettaia the width required for the bottom of the Dress ( ‘able of widths on paxe 8) and draw a straight Line 10 this th Continue the Underarm line to the requited length. Shape the bottom of the Dress as thowa in diagram. “The foregoing instructions give the plain foundation shown on page 5. ‘The foundations giving waist Gitings are on FRONT Place the Chart on the paper with the long straight ed Towards you, and the right-hand edge on the edge of paper. ‘Maken dot at Neck measurement Go Dot B astow for Bust measure } “aaa rd at — opm enenes, | Be, eae ans, BEN eanmenen | He ao } Draw a line from dot | wo dot B, or C, as che case may be (but “the case of clot € the line mut be made 1h” longer). Then draw a seraighe line to the required Dress length, ‘This is the Frome Centre Line Draw Shoulder line fom dot A to dot. For Neck Curve. Place arrow F on dot 1, and curve to dot A. For Armbole Curve (Bust measurements 210 2") Term ‘he Chart oret to the back, dhe long straight edge t0 your Tefiyand place to dot 3, che Armhole arrow corresponding ‘to the bust mesruremenr required. Then draw a line 19 oe For Must measurements 45" and over, the method of Grawing the curve ie tather diferent. Place 43” 10 <8" ftrow to dor ®; the Blue Carve touching do 2. Draw carve from des 2 vo Broad Arrow, then tum Chart over to the front snd place toad Arrow tothe end of the line alteady ‘Gtawa, Complete the curve to dot 3. For Hips Line, Place Comes 8 to dot 3, measure 19° down, ‘and!maike dot. (or tll igures 11” down) “Tuan te Chart over tothe font place Cornet 9 o the Centre Hine onsen edge fe Cha outing the doe Jtatimides"Besw ine fom Corner 3 eat tn fength Nhe ipe meaturement plus 1” Makes dota the end of inten and number fee For the Unde. Peder in from dot 318 dot fs mar he Teng and thin point measure inwards ES ranks Paut'No. 8 Dew esr line om dor 3 {odor By and a similar line fom dor Bo dou [Ascertain the width required for the bottom of the Dress Teco bie of wide on ae Sand draw a wait ine 12 ‘is Sidon ee Continue the Undecaem line 1 the requite length. [Now meas the Underarm lines of both the Back and Front ‘peran and they do not exactly correspond, the Buck Phuc be cn at eoeect kenga and the From made agree Shape the bottom of the Dress ax shown ia diagram. "The foregoing instructions give the plain foundation shown on page 3. The foundations giving shoulder fllness “and aint Retings are-on Page 4 Place long eight ste of Chart on eg of paper (ve ‘curve on your left Male a dor at Sleeve atzow 1 1 Rese, Go.” Sleeve 2 1 tees So. Sleeve armhole measurement {inant For a Coat Sleeve mesure 2 to the left of dor 8 (or for ‘Dress Sleeve 3}°). Male a dot and matk i 4, Place Sleeve srrow 1 to dor, the yellow curve to touch dor 2 “Gnd draw curved line from dot 1 102. ‘Tui Chart over, place Curved arrow to dot 2 and draw ‘curved Line rom dot 210 3. “Tore Gar spin and place Brosd aro wo dot fad cave crorgs aa lace comer to dot 1 (keep Chart straight) and draw a straight ioe to the required feng, and mark end of tis tine do 5. ‘Make a dot in the centre ofthis Line, and umber it 6. Place Elbuve arrow to dot 6 (Chart straigh)) and make a dot ‘tthe Elbow mesnurement.."Mark this dot A.” Forlong ‘Conte male the dot |! to the right of the Elbow measure ‘Mack this dor A ~ TWO PIECE SLEEVE FOR COAT, AND DRESS Place Cornet 4 to dot 6 the edge of Chart to touch dot A, and Sre'u dot at Sleeve bond arrow. Mati this dot By and rw Elbow Tine fom A to Be [Measure fora Cont Sleeve 1" fom A on the Elbow line, (For Dress Sleeve 2), Make s doe and mark it Draw a straight line from 310 Ay and from 4 v0 For Coat Sleeve make # dot in the centre of each line, and "SSoer don }" tothe sight. Draw curved lines as shown, $2°lageam ou pane 2 The straight lines are used Tor Dress Sleeves. Place Sleeve atrow 1 to dot Band draw curve to dot 1. Move Chart dowa, place Sleeve arow 1 on dot 8 and deaw to ‘to Be rinse Elbow atow to dot 8 (hep Chart staigh) and make dor at Wrist measurement. Mark this D. For Costume ‘Gakt take the dot }"to the right, and for a Long Coat 2" forthe righe. "Mark this dot D. Draw a straight line from 5 t0 dot D, and from D to A. ‘Measure Ij from D on the Wrist line (ora Dress Sleeve 2") ‘make a doc and ogaek it E. Draw a straight Hine from dot E to C.DRESS FOUNDATION AND COAT SLEEVE Allow 4-in. for turnings on all seams. 4 se Feundaion Feunstion } oe 6 i pot ra 6 ty 5 3 HE BACK & Sy 3 5 5 - SPECIAL ORAFTNG fr funtion undo Doe Cis for 43° busts and over oot 3 f ; Ps e = shoulder = a ete ta cet ae aL, tye i ie Taye ay ish i er ae ita i | | Shomer tow, to | wd | e'and speed 2 apart | Fe! omres)4 DRESS FOUNDATION 4 (With Shoulder Dart and Waist Fitting), DRESS AND BLOUSE SLEEVES Allow t-in. for turnings on all seams. Pe Instructions for Drafting Dress and Blouse Sleeves. Fold Drating Paper to half width. Make 2 doe on the fold near the top and mark it ‘soc . \ Soren iny aa \ Seong taste ease may be) ane mark doe 2 ‘The front shoulder \ oes | sn | Draw from dot 2 3 line acre the paper for the Mlegve width given in the Graeg and mark cor Hata lon thi ine mark dt 4. B ia Make a dot 2° shove dee 4 snd mark 5. From SaStemett Sarit ath te) and mark 6 Wage fl Place brane arrow (front of chat) to dot 1, and fulness c bred a Sa the Pace curved arrow to dt 6 and draw to 3 / Pisce curved arrow 20 dot I and draw 1 5. Turn chare round, place curved arrow to dot 3 ‘nd draw co. Now mesure from dot 2 the sleve length and “ollow the remaining lines of the drain for wre, oe ‘Afer completing the drafting, trace through the Tine for back and front elore cttng out. For fixing in the Sleeves, see cover pge 3 Seve to forarmbates 15), g ican ie Required length Sleeve top for Te armhole NOTE. Note ‘ Weta for Bott Wash for otsom | ‘of drei are given res are given on paged ‘on pase Peek and front bere cuting outThe “Haslam” System of Dresscutting BOOK OF DRAFTINGS Instructions for Measuring = “""** male press, ads Shoulder .../% NECK Place the tape round middle of neck, easly. Then add Tsim tothe measurement i-inr cde SHOULDER. From prominent bone tt Bock of neck 10 point of shoulder Boney rom ths deduct Shin. (2m. or Elite. LENGTH (Back) —This meature is taken from the same bone atthe back of the neck Yo the Leng required for the STENGTH. (F he neck In » ont) —From the neck in font othe I required for the garmont = BUST. Stand atthe hack ofthe person being mesrured. Pasnthe tape round tefl pact ote ase cle up et Neck Length (Back) Sane conlpat round" For age town whe's amt eee? Undeuma Length | str he on page oe aaa 'HIPS.—Round the his, below the wast line esl SLEEVE. | UNDERARM.—Fieetepe’ cles op under erat and soonnine neem wae, Steve Armbale ../c SLEEVE ARMHOLE. Place tpe clove up under the Sleeve Length sca qod uke toaoncrenac rout eseeratay ore tae poles Sleeve Elbow... SLEEVE LENGTH.—From font of armpit to wrist in Aine with thoy arn ight bese Sleeve Wet... IEEVE ELBOW.—Place pe round elbow hone. Then bend army an tbe canteen ound SKIRT. SLEEVE WRIST.“Wih hand outretched, and thumb ig, sodeconth the palsy resets round ka pet fe : ining Samy Hips . SPAIST—Mossote round tha wait wull dows, oor oo seta root Lenath s SRIRT LENGTH.—Menmure from the normal waist 10 the required length and add 1-in. for Petersham Belting. ‘Back Length... av Gompure your measurements with those in the table of proportionate measurements below, itany grew vatinlon, maueureagaia to take cheshutay tare tat Jour mesrarements we Table of Proportionate Measurements ADULT'S DRAFTINGS Shoulder Bost a ue uw 5 a a ao i: @ f = a e CHILD'S _DRAFTINGS Steere Sesve Neck Shoulder Bost = Armivole 10)" = a a Frid 3 a rr aye af = a i a ay ire ao: ae is a cri2 Full Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3, and Coat Sleeve ‘Two sheets of white paper are requited—one for the Front and one for the Back—: ine 20° by 48° of over. ‘Draft the pattern down the length of the pass, commocncing at the extreme ty BACK OF FOUNDATION ace he Ghar oth ape wih the Jong suai eg towards you, and the Teicha edge othe cg uf te paps Make a dota Neck dot A” fon Dori arte i do Neck mensurement |g Bae, 4o,—Shouides measurement ‘aa dio) Bust mensurement Draw a straighs line from dot A, through dot B, tothe required tenga of the Dress. ‘This i the Back Centre Liael Draw the Shoulder line from dot 1 002. For the Neck curve. Turn the Chast over to the front and ‘place curved arrow aa dot Iyand draw 40 dot A. For Armhole curve. Place arrow F on the Bust dot, with the blue curve of the Chart to your left, and draw to dot 2 The foregoin, For Hips Line, torn the Chart over to the back, place the ‘Corner 6 t0' dat 3, measure 13° down and make a de For ul Heures 13° downs) Place Cocner @ to the Back Centre line ; the long straight ‘adge of the Chart touching the dot just made. Dea Tine feom Commer equal in fength to | of the hi ‘ment less 1”. Make a dot at the end of smamber ie 4, For the Underarm. Fiest draw a line from dot 3 to dot 4 ‘Then mark the lengthy and wt this point measure {fowards and imake a dot No.'5. ‘Draw a tight line Gor det a odor 8 § and a similar line fom dot $10 dot 4 ° Ascertain the width required for the bottom of the Dress (sce ‘ble of widths on page 3) and draw a straight line to this th Continue the Underarm line to the requited length. Shape the boom of the Dress as shown in diagram. ructions give the plain foundation shown on page 3. ‘The foundations giving waist Sitings are on : FRONT Place the Chart on the paper with the long straight edge towards you, and the righthand edge om the edge of tl paper. Makela dot at Neck measurement do. Dot Batrow f ‘mente upto and inclading 4" ips Draw a tine from dot Ito dot By of Gy as the case may be (but ithe ote a do Ce tine mat be made ong ‘Then draw a straight line to the required Dress lenge This isthe Brom Contre Z Draw Shoulder fine from dot Ato dot 2 For Neck Curve Place arrow F on dot 1, and curve dot A. For Armhole Curve. (Bust measurements 24° to 42) Tuen the Chart over to the back, the long straight edge t your Jef, and place to dot 8, the Armole arrow Corresponding to ite bust measurement requied. "Then draw a line from dot'$'to dot 2 For, Bust measurements 43° and over, the method of ‘drawing the curve ie rather diferent." Place tS" to 48° ‘artow to dot; the Blue Curve touching dot Draw curve ‘The foregoing istructions give the plain foundation shown on page 3. The foundations giv from dot 2 t0 Broad Arrow, then turn Chatt over to the front, and place Broad Arrow to the end of te line lgeady dawn. ‘Complete the curve wo dot S For Hips Line. Place Comner © to dot 5, means ‘and make a dot. |For tall Rgures It down.) Ton the Chart over the front, place Corner 8 to the ene Hine ong stig ee ofthe Chart souching the dat jus’ line ftom Corner 3 equal in feng the hips measurement plus 1" "Make sdot atthe ond of this line and number it For the Underarm. First draw a line from dot 3 t0 dot 4 ‘then mark the length and a this point measure }" inward and make a dot No, 8, Draw 4 sraight line Gor dor {dot 5, and a similat line feom dot 3 dow L Ascertain the widde requited for the bottom of the Drest (see table of widths on page’; and desw's saighe Une te this width, ‘Continue the Underarm ine tothe required length. ‘Now measure te Underaem lines ofboth the Back and Front ‘paterns, and if they do not exactly correspond, the Back fst be taken asthe cortect length and the Fron made ve free. Shape the bottom of the Dress as shown in diagram. 13° down ix shoulder fullness ‘and waist ftings ate on Page 4 TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE Place long sraighe edge of Chact on edge of paper (blue 1 fame ‘do, Sleeve armhole measurement: { hivant Measure 2° to the left of dot and mark dot 4 lace Sleeve arrow 1 to dot 1, the yellow curve to touch doe? ‘and draw curved line from det 40 2 ‘Tuen Chart over, place Curved arrow to dot 2 and deaw ‘Curved line from do 210 8 ‘Turn Chart again, and place Brod arrow to dot 1, and curve to dot de ce 1 erm 26 dt and ure to Place corner 6 to dot 1 (keep Chart straight) and draw a straight line tothe required lengvh, and mark end ofthis line do, ‘Make a dot in the centre ofthis line, and umber i Place Ethow arrow to dot 6 (Chart straight) and make a dot ‘a the Elbow measurement. "Mark this dot A. (For long, ‘Coats make the dot |" tothe sight of the Elbow measure) Place Cornet & to dot 6 the edge of Chart to touch dot A, and take a dot at Sleeve bend arrow. "Math this dot By and draw Elbow line from Ato i Measure 1)" from Aon the Elbow line, make a dot and mark We. Place Sieeve atrow 1 to dot B and draw curve to dot Moe Chart down, place Sleeve atrow 1 on dot 8 and deaw to on Be Place Elbow arrow to dot § (keep Chart straight) and make st tia memarement For Choon ae the A" 9 the right. (Bor a lo 710 the Tigh) ‘Mak this dor D. oe oh Draw a straight line from 5 to dot Dy and feom D to A. Measure 1] from D on the Wrist line, make a dot and ‘mark iE Draw a straight line from dot E 10 C. Draw a stright line from 3 t0 A, and from 4 1 €. Make a dor in the centre of each line, and another dot 1° « ‘the right,” Draw curved Tines as shows in dlagramt oa age 20DRESS FOUNDATION, AND SLEEVES IMPORTANT: All draftings in this book give actual fitting lines. When cutting out materials, the following turnings must be allowed. FOR DRESSES. FOR COATS FOR SKIRTS Shoulder and side seams 1” vr I Neck and semboles 3” 2 Calars 4" ‘ BLOUSES and UNDERWEAR Hem 2°20 3° ‘i Pecsllsans ye writ yy For Armbole measure: 15h drat a Ggram ees 1 Ei ts and ae 3 ane 2 ro 16k" ara cot Sle 1 and rae 54° Ed 17" and over rate co} armhole las (4°, and rae Pant ‘Afcer drafting, race vrough the le for back and front before futtng vt. For fixing i, see poge 32 ee fers Faroe Required length RequiredPace to fold BLOUSE Material required: 12/2 yards 36-in. Satin or Silk sLeeve Use grating for Blouse sletve, pages DRESS FOUNDATIONS. (Continues) The front shoulder | muse Be stretched fo Me the back Ir sighe Auliess wanted, mle ehe ‘ar Tanderarn To Two tucks sllowed for DRAFTING For busts 40" and over (Use Doe Cr over 42")The “Haslam” System of Dresscutting BOOK OF DRAFTINGS Name’. Instructions for Measuring eee NECK Place the tpe round middle of neck, eas “Then add Ijin fo the Sesame (instr deen 7 NetR oo kol . SHOULDER.—Pocn prominent base st bck of neck 10 : peint of thovtacs tose! "Et le debuet Stance _, Sboulder «ac. ee & Lenetn ec J. LENGTH (Baci)—Thia meaore i taken fro the sume vera Dak ie mt tenga BS Sogn anny ae TENGTH gan—Pom ein fone teeth Se... A required fort garment 3 ant DUST tad oe bck of hn peeing mement, Sie |... ‘Pass the tape round the fullest part of the bust, close up under ae cate 1 | x round. For lagge busin take s clove tear Inderarm Length feos sid fefr to special note on page Sof cover. pe ee Pa HANS Res the hin ow he ai teeny. SLEEVE, UNDERARM. “Pace tape close up. ander aad smeaworef0 normal win, PT WE OP ae anbote f. Zee. SLEEVE ARMHOLE.—Place tape close up under the Sleeve Length ...//E2.... tem and take mestarrcnt ound nts Oo te 3 ‘feat be: steve Etbow eg SLEEVE LENGTH.—From font of armpit weit in line with thumby atm lightly bene. Steve Wrist... A SLEEVE RLBOW. Pee pemund elbow ane, Then eal Waitt. underneath the palm, measure sound thickest part of the hand, tightly Hips WAIST.—Measure round the walst well down, not too tighaly. Front Length SKIRT LENGTH.—Messure from the normal waist to the required length and add L-in. for Petersham Belting. Back Lengthes.s sis Compare your measurements with those in the tab and if any great Yatlaion, meanure again to male abs of ionate measurements below, iuely sure that your messutements are Table of Proportionate Measurements ADULT'S DRAFTINGS Sleeve Neck Shoulder Bust Hips Elbow ay “a a 387 10} Te 3 38° 33" a is: ah 38° a: iy : 15 ng “O° 4s: ie 1: ae a a Be ' i at ae a6 ye ie a e ao i CHILD'S _DRAFTINGS Neck Shoulder Bost 10" 5° a ne 3 2° ny ar 2° rr o 2 a ae cg co + Eo= Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3, and Coat Sleeve ‘Two sheets of white paper are requied—one forthe Front and one for the Back size 20” by 48° or over. [Draft the pattern down the length of the paper, commencing af the extreme top. BACK OF FOUNDATION Place the Charon the pape with che long suai edge taid yoy andthe let-bahd edge onthe cle ot he pope Make a dot at = Neck doe A an Doe ) pares fo Neck measurement |g BEEN Jo. Shoulder measurement ‘inca & obmanucnec |) Dray amcaight line from dot A, theough dot B, tothe required Temgth of the Dress. This is the Back Centre Line Draw the Shoulder line from dot 1 to 2. For the Neck curve. ‘Turn the Chart over to the front and ‘place curved arrow on dot I, and draw to dot A. For Armhole curve. Place arrow F on the Bust dot 3, with the ue curve ofthe Chart to your left and draw eo dot 2 rors enter "tad ve ase Avon Hom dt and For Hips Line, tum the Chart over to the back, place the ‘Corner 6-to dot 3) measure 13” down and make a dot (or tall Sgures 14° down.) Place Corner 6 wo the Back Centre line ; the long steaight ‘edge of the Chart touching the dot just made. Draw a Fine fom Corner 6 equal in length to | of the hips measure- ‘ment leis 1". Make a dot at the end of this line and smomber #4 Fox the Underarm Fit daw a line from do 310 dot & jen matk the fet at dhis point measuce inward tind make a dot No.8. Draw a'acaight line fom dor 3 fo'dot 3} and a similar Hine from dot 8 to dot &. Ancertain the width required for the bottom ofthe Dress (see tie of wid on page 8) and draw a saight line o tie ‘Continue the Underarm line tothe required length. ‘Shape the bottom of the Dress as shown in diagram. ‘Thin giver the plain foundation back. For waist line and dar, follow diagram. FRONT Place the Chart on the paper with the long. straight ed ‘owards you, and the fighchand edge-on the cage of the jot at Neck measurement Barrow edge of chart for Bust } ‘measurements up tO and incl § Bose measurement Dray a donted line from dor 1 to dot B, or C, as the case may, ett in the cate of dot the ling mnt be made Hh Tonge) "Then -draw 2 staight line to. the requ Dress k “This le the Front Centre Line Draw dotted Shoulder ine fom dot A to dot 2 For Neck Curve. Place arrow Fon dot 1yand make'dotted ‘line round the curve to A. For Armbole Curve. (Bust measurements 24° to 42") Turn ‘he Chart over 0 the back, the long straight edge to your Jef, and place to dot 3, the Armhote strow corresponding to the bust measurement required. "Then draw line from doe 8 t0 dot 2 (For 40° bus and ‘over, the shoulder must pow be “Exiended for the dart.” ‘Refer to Front Drafting on ‘opposite page, and make armhole ‘curve-) For Bost measurements 18” and over, the method of ‘drawing the curve is tather diferent.” Place 43° to 48° sar ia a mi ys cease cave fever giant taoy enas coaow eas fo en ea oe eae re Seen geierientas saw aoe Gieireees Seta Ge rears ch eos eae cemetery Foe ge Lines Goan 8 dot mea 2° down laeotes deerme amiga eel Tagg Core tte ane pce Cnr 3 Cone aorta Cones nies coe Juntinae: "Bear line om Covoer 9 caeal tn fang Poe erates cen ee canal iorrecere Yee dn Unione fis aerw aloe foes. det 3 tn dt ee eae seme eee is Sie eee ce agar ise a oor Satis nce esa arta ncn tp rue fh vn of he ree acca e car orcas its ‘this width. e a me asa ae ages ing ‘New mummers Gn UnnnenLns of ath the Dec and Front Extend the shoulder and neck lines and make dart as shown in diagram. ‘For waist line and dart follow diagram, and complete the drafting. Pace long sight sige of Chat on nige of paper (lve ‘curve on your left) Makers dot at Sleeve artow 2 Meature 2” tothe left of dot 3, then drop 4” and mark dot 4. Place Sleeve arrow 1 to dot ly the yellow curve to touch dot ind draw curved tine fora dot to 2. ‘Tarn Char over, place Carved arrow to dot 2, and draw ‘Suved line from doe 203. ‘Turn Chatt again, and place 4” arrow to dot 1, and curve t0 ‘dot ees cou meamreen et pa a ee be Place comer 6 to dot (keep Char straight) and deaw a sraight ine tothe sequied length, and mark cod of his line dot “Make a dot in the centre of thin Une, ad suonber it Place Elbow acrow to dot 6 (Char ssight) and make a dot “Si the Elbow mearatement. Mark die dot A.” (for long Gout make the dor {10 the right ofthe Elbow measure TWO-PIECE COAT SLEEVE Place Corner 4 to dot 6, the edge of Chart to touch dot A, and ‘make a dot at Sleeve bend arrow. Mark this dot By and Giaw Etbow line from A to B. Meanie 1)" from Aon the Elbow line. make = dot and mark ee Place arrow K to dot Band draw curve to dot 1. row K to dot § and draw to Place Elbow atrow to dot & (keep Chart straight), and make dot wat mature For Can Cou make te cela Se ee ee a Draw a stright line from & to dot D, and from D to A. Measure 1}7 ffom D on the Wrist line, make 2 dot and mark it. Draw a straight line from dot E to C. Draw 4 straight line from 3 40 A, and from 4 t0 C. Make & dot in the centre of each Hine, and another dot 17 0 the sight.” Draw curved fines as shown in diagram on page 19.Conte ine DRESS FOUNDATION AND IMPORTANT All draftings in this book give actual fitting lines, the dotted lines are construction lines only. When cutting out materials, the following turnings must be allowed. FOR ORESSES. FOR COATS FOR skiRTs Shoulder and side seams 3° r Side seams 1° ea - Heme 2B" sins" : 1 atouses ard UNDERWEAR Home 2! co 3+ E F on all seams Required length Boteom Widths Boxom Widths For 36° g] ror seems 2° fete) g see a ere: j pam :| page ara z ae 15 : = Ii Zz & ie In material, they are shown inthe draftings Ifa dare ie marked "to pin up.” fe should be pled up in the pattern before the imacerial (cut out. Thi will give plain fing without dere SLEEVE 3 9e Four The frone shoulder must be Sretched “o fe the Baek FRONT le For buses 40° and over (Ue Dot Co over #27) DRESS SLEEVE (Drafting below) Fer armholes 15)", make rate §° 5. a at “Remote! ess 33 I DRESS [SLEEVE t iz Sea alThe “Haslam” System of Dresscutting BOOK OF DRAFTINGS Instructions for Measuring NECK.—Place the tape round middle of neck, exsil ‘Then add Ij-in. to the measurement (Ie. for children). 'SHOULDER,—From promineas bone at back of neck to point of shoulder bone. "From this deduct 2fsin, (in. for Sheen). LENGTH (Back).—‘This measute ie taken from the same one at the Back of the neck to ths length tequired for the garment LENGTH (Fromt-—From the neck infront to the length sequized for the garment BUST. Stand at the back of the person being measured. Pass the tape round thefallest part ofthe busty close Up undet temo, staight round. Por large busts take’ clone wensuts ‘td efer wo special notes on page of cover. HIPS.—Round the hips, Tin. below the waist line, es UNDERARM. —Place tape clove up under scm and ‘measure to normal waist SLEEVE ARMHOLE.—Place tape clote up under the tarm and take measurement round, mentuting ‘over the Shoulder bone. SLEEVE LENGTH.—From front of armpit to wrlet in line with thumb, arm slightly beat. SLEEVE ELBOW.—Place tape round elbow hone. Then bend aem and talge meaturenent round. SLEEVE WRIST.—With hand outstretched, and thumb underneath the palm, measure sound thickest part of the fiandy tightly. SFAIST.—Meanore round the wait well doway not (oo tightly. SKIRT LENGTH.—Measure from the normal. walet to the required length and add Lin. for Petersham Beking, Compare yout measurements with ana any great correct in the table of ton, meanure again to make absolutely sure that your measurements are Name. ass | we. Shoulder Length (Back) ... Length (Front), portionate meaturements below, Table of Proportionate Measurements ADULT'S _DRAFTINGS CHILD'S _DRAFTINGS Neck Shoulder Base 10" Fe a at 2° iy: af 23 a a = rcs ae a0" y a a Bost Hips a 36° 35 38 ae a ao S a “ a & e o sieeve Steve ‘Armiole Want ia & rg © ir . ie ? i * 13° * is Bg Steere Sesve Biow “Wir se * = o 72 Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3, and Coat Sleeve ‘Two sheets of white paper are required —one forthe Front and one for the Back—sixe 20° by 48° or over, Place the Chart on the paper with the Io be edge owarde you, and the lelchand edge on the edge of the | Makes dort" Neck dot A | fen ao"™ pov punto, So! Neck’ meanurement abtiees de: Shoulder measurement | reps, Go, Buse measurement Draw a straight line from dot A, theon Tenge of the Dress. ‘This isthe Draw the Shoulder linc from dot | to 2. For the Neck curve. Turn the Chart over to the front and place curved arrow om dot Iy and draw to dot A. For Armbole curve. Place arow F om the Bust dot 8, with the ‘blue curve ofthe Chart to your le and draw to dot 2. (for Dur meuremente 40" tod ver ace Arrow Hon dee 8, and For Hips Line, tuon the Chart over to the back, place the ‘Corker 6 Got"; measure 13° down and make a dor (Ror tall Sgures 14° down.) oe B10 the ea fe Genie Lines ‘Draft the pattern down the length of the paper, commencing af the extreme top. BACK OF FOUNDATION Place Comer 6 to the Back Cente line ; the long straight “cage of the Char touching the dot just made. Draw fine foun Conner 6 equal fn fengeh to | ofthe hips mearure- cat lees 1 Make a dot af the end of this line and frumber it. For the Underarm, First draw a line from dot 8 to dot 4. “then mark the lengthy and at this poine measure 1” inwards tnd make a dot Nore. Draw a miaight line from dot 3 fo dot and a similar Hine from dot 8 to dot 4. [Ascestain the width required forthe bottom of the Dress (see “able of widths on page 3) and draw a stsight Hine 10 this Continue the Underarm line to the requied length, and Shape “he bonom shown in lage ‘This given the Plain Foundation Back. For waist line and dart, follow diagram. FRONT Place the Chart on the paper seth the long straight ed Sulntde you, and the righchand edge on the edge of tre paper, Make's dot at Neck measurement Goo Bstrow edge of chart for Bust ‘measurements up 10 and ) aes ets are tegen Gant ower mates FA BE EE ee ae dae | | =. See ‘Draw Sted line from dot 1 to dot By oF Cy as the case may ‘Ne thur ia the eave of dot C the line must be continued Ty longet). Then drave a straight line to the required rete lengih. This ls the Front Centre Line. Draw dotted Shoulder line from dot A to dot 2 For Neck Carve. Place arrow Fon dot l,and make dotted line round the carveto A. For Armhole Curve. (Bust measurements 21° to 42") Tur ‘he Chart over to the back, the long straight cage t0 Your {efi and place to dot 3; the Armhole arrow corresponding tothe bust measurement required. ‘Then draw line from dot 3 t0 dot 2. For Bust meaturements 43° and over, the method of "deawing the curve ie tather difleent. Place 43° 10 48° ‘reow te dors te Blue Curve touching dot. Draw curve from dot 2 eo Broad. Arsow, then turn Chart over to the ‘rom, and place Broad Arrow to the end ofthe line already Sowwin Complete the curve to dot 3 (For 10" busty and. over, the shoulder Hine muxt now be ‘onended f° at dor 2) ‘Then make a doc 8° from Dot 3 TWO-PIECE Place long stright edge of Chart on the righthand edge ‘of the paper (blue curve on your Tel). Make a dotat Sleeve arrow 1 a Bo. Sleeve 2 | See, 82 Steere demote measurement 9 {iS nds Measure 2” to the left of dot 3, then drop }" and mark dot 4 Place Sleeve arrow 1 to dot 1, the yellow curve to touch dor 2 hd draw curved line from dot 1 10% ‘rusn Cha over, place Carved arrow to dot 2 and draw ‘Cucved line from dot 210 “Torn Chart again, nd place 4" arrow to dot 1, and curve 10 or Place corer 6o dot (keep Chart straight) and draw a straight ine to te required length, and mark end of this line dot 6 Make a dot in the centze ofthis line, and mumbs Place Elbow arrow to dov 6 (Chactpaalel with righthand Sage of paper) and make a doe at the Elbow measure. SBS. °Mar this doc A (For long Coats mace dhe dot 3" Elbow measure) am the armbole tine, place Broad Actow to dis dot and Soeve io the eh of the shouldc. Refer to diagram on pane 9) Foe Shoulder dart. Extend the shoulder line atthe neck, and ‘sso the ont Gee aes" Mae snow neck line and the ‘Shoulde: dar following diagram on page 3. For Hips Line. Place Corner 6 to dot 8, measure 19° down ‘salinates dau Corti gues 1° down) “Turn the Chart ove tothe font place Corner 3 wo dhe Cente Tine he long soaight edge ofthe Chat touching the dot Just made, "Braw aline fom Corer 3 equal i fengeh to [chips mensremen par Make st athe Ao int and number For the Underarm, hep mac tee sed snake + doe No, 8 Draw ata TUT aNSnu wml lne Bom do Bo dor Ancetain the width roqulzed for the bouor of the Dress “occ able of widins oh page Sy and draw snight ne to ii wigan CContinoe the Underarm tine to the required length. Now measure the Underarm liner of both the Back and Front "pte, te Back tt be akan a0 the correct emg ad Ric ron made to agree. shape the bottom ofthe Dress a8 shown in dlageam. ‘This ives the Plain Foundation Front. For walet fitting and dart follow diagram and complete the drain from dot 3 ro dot 4, COAT SLEEVE lace Comet & to dot 6, the edge of Chart to touch dot A, and Snake u dot at Sleeve bend arrow." Mark this dot By and Saw Elbow line from A vo Be ‘Measure 1} from Aon the Elbow line, make a dot and mark We. Place arrow K to dot Band draw curve to dot Move Chart down, place arrow K to dot 5 and draw to ‘dot Be Place Elbow arrow to dot 5 ( saeea wae megnaemen: Borie the ‘Mack this doe D. ‘Draw a straight line from 6 to dot D, and from D to A. Measure 1f> from D on the Welst line, make @ dot and mark iE. Deas a straight line from dot F t0 C. Draw a darted line from 3.10 A, and from 410 C. Mark the centre of each Une, and make a dot 2" to the ‘ight. Draw curved. liner a6. sbown in (page 27. ‘Char seraight) and make hor Coutuine, Cot make the Tong Coat 10 the righ) q eeeDRESS FOUNDATION IMPORTANT The dretngt tm thie book give actual feting ines, dete tines are constuction lines only. Wher ctong out materi, the following turnings murt be allowed FOR DRESSES FOR COATS FOR SKIRTS, Shoulder and side seams Boe eae Side seams 1° Neck and arrabler aE Meme 2p Colas #” FF. — BLOUSES and UNDERWEAR Hems 2! to 3° & ¥ on al came DARTS Where dors are to be made in motera. they are shown inthe draftees. Ifa dart is marked to pinup." it should be pinned up in the pattern before the material Is cut ut This wl pve pain fing witout do, Doe i Centre fax nderarn eneth iB : 3 5 _— oun wt ; ie ze Fy tee corner Required length AND SLEEVE The front shoulder Sretehed ro fe whe bac FRONT (Full Figure) For busts 40° and over (Use Doe Bit wsder 40), pe DAESS SLEEVE (Orang below) For armholes 153°, make > de, 1 tad Set seat ise Fae 59° ie 5" I DRESS! SLEEVE (vtchou pleats Cantinae 2 eqPed engthThe “Haslam” System of Dresscutting. ! BOOK OF DRAFTINGS. Instructions for Measuring, ““” Gest hh eet ome, NECK, Place the tape-round middle of neck, ail, ‘Then ail 1} Inches to the meanirement (1 inch for children) SHOULDER. From prominent Bone ag back of neck, to point of shoulder bone,” Prom this deduct 2 inches (2 inher For bildze, [LENGTH (Buc), This pean taken fom the sme bone at the back of the neck, to the legel required for the garment. LENGTH (Front). From the neck in front, to the length required for the garment. TBUST, Stand at the back of the person belag: measured. ase the tape round the fllest part of de bust, ese up under srs, straight round, [HIPS Round the hg, seven ines teow the watt He, cauly. Meat 20" Msg HM SLEEVE ARMHOLE. Place tape close up under the arm, and take meeaurement found, mensuing over the shoulder bone SLEEVE LENGTH, From front of armpit to west in ine ‘wih thumb, arm slightly bent SLEEVE ELBOW. Place tape round elbow bone. Then bend arm, and take measurement round. SLEEVE. WRIST. With land outstretched, and thumb tnderneath the palin, measure ound thickest part of the hand, ‘ae not to tay WAIST. Measure round the waist well dows, no 10 tight. Bron Length <2 SKIRT LENGTH, Measure ffor the normal waist to the 4 : required Tength Back Length 2. Bee Compare your measurements with those in the table of proportionate measurements” below, and it any” great ‘varlation, measure ‘again "to make [volatety suce that "your meammements are enrrect. Table of Proportionate Measurements CHILD'S DRAFTINGS—2 Full Instructions for Drafting Dress Foundation Pattern on Page 3 ‘Two sheets of white paper are requized—one for the Front and one for the Back—sixe 20 by 40 or over. "Deft the Tmtteen down the length of the paper commencing at’ the extreme top BACK OF FOUNDATION. Place the Chart on the paper with the long straight edge ‘towards you, and the Hefthatd edge on the cage of the paper. Make a dot at “Neck dot A” Ge." Dot B arrow Number these dots Go, Neck mensurement [A,B 1, 2, and 3 e. Shoulder eapéctively- ao But ‘Draw a straight line from dot A, thzough dat B. to the required Teagth of the Dress, "This fs the facie Cenice Live, Draw the Shoulder line from dot 1 to 2 For the Neck curve. Turn the Chart over to the front and ‘place curved arrow on dot Ty and draw to dot A or Armbole curve. Place arrow I on the Bust dot 3, with the ‘blue curve oF the Chart to your let, and draw to dot 2, (ag wow over plas Arow Hon a For Underarm Length, turn the Chart over to the back, place ihe Comer 6 to'doe 3, measure 19° down ait make’ dot. ‘For Hips line, Place Comer 6 to the ack Centre line; the ‘ong straight cge of the Chart touching Ue dot fst nade Draw line from Corwer 6 equal sn Tength to {the hips ‘measurement less 1°. "Make ‘dot at the end of this line find number ie & For the Underarin line, Fist draw a line ftom dot 8 to dot 4, ‘Then mafk the half distance, and at tis point meagre foward and make a dot No. 5."-Dra sruight line fom lotto dot 3 and a similar line from dot 8 90 dot 4 Ascertain the width required for the bottom of the Drest (see Table of widths om page 8) and draw n straight line to this width. Continue the Underarm tine to the required length Shape the bottom of the Drees as shewn in Diagram. FRONT. Place the Chart on, the paper with the ong straight “towards you, and the righthand edge on the edge of the rapes Make w dot at Neck measurement oes Rovere a manera |. Rete oggatpuamcctaeenane | teed See, A Bnd esos do, ‘Bust measurement empostively. rave a line from dot 1 to dot i, oF C, a8 the ease may be (but Tn the ease of dot © ihe line ist be made 1° longer) ‘Then draw a straight Tine to the requised Drow length. ‘This isthe Front Centre Line Dra Shoulder lie from dot A to dot 2 For Neck Curve, Place-armow F on dot 1, and curve to dot A. For Amlale Cure, (it ieaurenents 24° to 42") Tum ithe Chart over to the back, the long straight edge to Sour Jef, und plate to dot 3, the Armbole Arnow corsepodlig to ihe burt measurement required. Then draw ili. dot 2. For Bust measurements 45° and over, the method of ‘Srawing the curve. is ruther ‘iferent, "Place 4" to 4a" row to dot 3, the Blue Curve touching dot 2. Draw eurve- from dot 2 to Broad Avrow, then tum Chart over to the front, and place Broad Arrow to the end of the live already Gwin." Caraplete the carve ta dot 2 or Underarm Length. Place Commer 6 to dot 3, measure 19° down and make a dot. ‘For Hips line, ‘Turn the Chart over to the front, place Comer 48 to the Contre line, the log straight edge uf the Chart touching the dot just made. "Draw a line trom Corner 8 qual ps measurement plus 1", Make & ‘dot at the end of thie line and nusaber it For the Underarm line, Fist draw a line ftom dot & ta dot 4, then mark the half distance and-at this point measure inwards and make a dot No. 5. Draw a suraight Hine from dot 8 to dot 5, and similar line from det ta dot 4 Ascertain the width required for the bottom of the Dress (sce ‘able of widths om page 8), and draw m straight Hine to tis width Continue the Underarm line to the required Now measure the Underarm fines of both the Back and Front patterns, and if they do not exaetly correspond, the Tack ‘must be taken as the eoeret length and the Froiit made to saree, Shape the bottom of the Dress as shewn in dagen, TWO-PIECE SLEEVE FOR DRESS AND COAT. ‘or Coat Sleeve add 1" to Wrist measurement. For long Coat ‘Skeve ud f° to Blbow ‘measurement and If" ‘0° Wret Prespuremients ‘Place long straight edge of Chart on edge of paper (blue curve ‘on your let) Make a dot at Sleeve Arrow 1 Number these te 2 ao Sleeve ts do! “Sleeve Armhole measurement & J 1, 2yaund 2 For a Dress Sleeve messure 2” to the left of dot 9 (or for = ‘Coat measure 2"). Make a'dot und mark ie, Place Sleeve arw 1 to dot 1, the yellow curve to touch dot 2, ‘and draw curved line fhom'doe to 2 ‘Turn Chart over, place Cunved arrow to dot 2, and draw curved Tne from dot 2 to 3 ‘Turn Chart again, and place Broal arrow to dot 1, and curve to ‘dot 4. (for le mearasesin ovr 31 lace $ tow tt 1, a ure to Place Comer 6 to dot 1 (keep Chart straight) and draw straight ine to the required length, and mark end of this line dot. ‘Make a dot inthe centre of this line, and number it 6. ‘Place Elbow arrow to dot 6 (Chart stright) and make a dot at ‘he Elbow meamirement.” Maik’ this det A’ ‘Pace Corner 1 to dt 6 the edge of Chart to ouch dot A, and ‘ake"a dot a Sleeve bend artows Maik tir dot By nd ‘Saw cto tne from Ato 3 Mearure for 9 Drew aleve 2 fom A.on the Eltew le, (For ‘Goat Sleeve measure 1°) Riake'a dot and marc iC For Drew Sleve draw a straight ne from 2 to A and from woe. For Coat Sleeve place Comer 4to dots 9 and 4 respectively, and ‘cram cured lines sx ancwn tn Clngat on age 16 Page Sleeve arow Ito dot B and draw curve to dot 1. Moce Chart down, place Sleeve atrow I on dot 8 and draw to Pn Place Elbow arrow to dot 6 (keep Chart straight), and make 9 ‘dot at wrist measurement, Mark this D, i Draw a stnght line fom 6 to dot D, and from D to A, Measuze 2 from D on the writ live (for & Cont Sleeve 11), Take dot and musk i Draw a straight lin from dot to ©.DRESS FOUNDATION & SLEEVE. 2 Allow} in. for all turnings. Cenrre Line 10k 128" WIDTHS FOR BOTTOM ‘The above measurementa ste designed for a dress of 86 inches ip measurement. For 36 inch hips incrense the measurements to 11 inches for back and.18} inches for front. seabenes en te agen a ae ae So cn Si » esas mee e Bon nn mare et ce ne a e - eS cn OF DRESS. << iB Bopice FRONT FOR Busr over 40" CENTRE LINE Sleeve 2 Sleeve 3 RM cic) tec Men 2 ie see SRS ow Gere es 69 one ow es tit ‘Note :—Where the letters B.C. are shown, the Blue Curve on Chart is to be used. Place the B.C. line on Chart to the point indicated on the drafting.4 BLOUSE AND + Hips measurement SLEEVE FIGURE 1 Instructions for Drafting Blouse and Jumper Sleeve. Fold_a. sheet of Drafting Paper to half iat Se Leave 2 ofeinch margio at the top, and ‘make ton the fokd—mack % dot Tue meanuce from 1 ve laches down, take 2 00 and mak #2 one fm do 2 ln ars the paper ‘Slsscement ese 1 fcc" The nd of tas toe mack 3. Mae 4 dot bal way arom tis ne and ‘Make 3 dot 3) inches above dot and mack C3. itm draw lie rom one 10 the ies Make 4 dot 2} inches above 4, and mark 6. “This yl of coun Be one Tach lower than 5. Place Broad acrow (on, foat of Char) 1 dot ton paper, and curve 5. Pace Cured stow 1 dot 1, and dean Special Note :-—Where the letters B.C. are shewn, the Blue Curve on chart is to be used. Tom sh pocmact an sm t Peg Boat grow dot 3 dam to The completes the Same ae Now measure from dot 2 the length of the sleeve and make a dot 7 ‘Measure now for the width. This should ‘be one inch les than the suaight tine draw from 2 to, and draw ine stuns from 7. Make & dot acd mark it 8. Join 3 and 8 as shewa in diagram. ‘Make the wrist curves also as shewn in diagram. NOTE —When placing the sleeve into the garment, the seam must be ‘ed tree-guate inch "towards thy fom (hemi. fmt The ‘holow pact of the sleeve suse come to the front Place the B.C. line on chart to the point indicated on the drafting. Allow 4 in. for tarnings on all seams, and JUMPER SLeeve 2 * 3 2 3 ‘ q a u NE I'less than aboveallows for 4 tucks and easing. Take up Inn. in each tuck, allowing nn. for essing and re-cut tterm after tucking. ‘Tha jabot ls fxed tothe froncs and fnahed wich Iii. wide cng. Trilings are made ain. wide twice the fished length. Insert in the postion shown snd machine. Sloare in wide double materia chee graduating vo width of ries st he ends, Foaltengthe On. Fig. 20.” Mark the postion ofthe ront neck ine onthe shoulder portion 2-in frm the sp and fix hese together. se lero onthe fons atthe uocider and and pitch, Beare ang tir sume Tra neer teres Tian ws beeps and on Me rpaeinnd Reneep ermec berries tel tw PIR ard oer Thee length is required for fl Skirt, Fig. 22. One pattern ony is given fr the fone and back. Cut ewice and obttin separately. For pa ‘the paitern muse be arranged to fnten down sen. Tack the plests i ponson, machine and pres. ‘tedch plat machined onthe edge, after the hem is made. ofthis blouse i fixed into a Sand 2asn- deep, the waist measurement pls ein, Eate the ules Blousette, Fig. 2. Trace the bolero from pattern to obisin separately. and place the centreline fold of material. Make Vike thoulder ths," For the filing, cut 3. cleet inn dlamate then measure 2 cuter cre Ct through fr she enh ander i ces ae agurd for each Solero a the shoulder. Machine + Zn wide halle to the bolero duck, and jon to the top of skirt. The bat can Be made longer and carried round the front If preferred. vera, Fig. 2.” fae the fronts Zim. wide x the waist and slope to the shoulder. Make the pocket "Top posket Sin. x 41 Pinafore, Fig. 2. Sind the turnings with bia binding, and secure the straps together atthe back, leaving small loop here the straps meet trough which to pass the tes ‘Walatcoat, Fig 31 Interline the fronts and bottom of waistoat with linen about 2-n. wide, Face with material from Shin of shoulder tothe poine below wale, and Zin. atthe back of neck. The waistcoat canbe lined to meet the facing. ‘Shirt, Fig. 30. The front and back shoulder lines of the pattern should be pinned together to avoid a seam. The cu Made in double. materia Measurements co use with 36/4osn. chest measure, are 34/6in. shoulder, and 7} Tein, secve armhole x Gin MAN'S SHIRT DRAFTING — aora ACCESSORIES, BLOUSETTES, COLLARS, Etc. pees Hise ‘and § yard net for back e fee rats liner Her ailing it 4 a aoe olf \ Fo neo 2 boxpenes i | sn80T D j Win Cole yard fetes equ Tow Tr anlar wrap Front to fold re | {corner ffl _¢ ff} of ASOT C. 9 yard material required eT ‘ PIERROT COLLAR H | Byrd material 7FASHIONABLE SLEEVES. Cut oye a Allow +in. for turnings on all seams, m4 place ck mith Parsee a wf 3 | | ness suseve for Pull erimming hid Foundation 2, Careridge Slows Put so we In Sleeve Fe. 19 FG. Cuteon ero ef uteri r Sleeve length + Carey AiG. 16s FIG.I8S Drang givin cexcended houider ‘equledforuie wth Carerdge Sleeve Fe the sre ito “he ale plesing’on the sentonded soclaer. 7] Armioie +a Fold under 11" along the top before pleating & ‘cowt suzeve FIG. 175 T Armbole Fold of Paper ist pArmiote Cut on seraghe of rateral Armbal canTuoge | DRAPED stecve I sueve | FIG. 6s fig 18s Coron X of mate (baie rom ou belbow $2 ‘Sleeve Sleeve length + 1° a i r is p Fees B 5 | Tbe wu | Si ra to sleeve at exch end, wei lees Full wrist measurement ‘Special Note Trace through the lines for back and front of each sleeve Iefore cutting, outSLEEVES. COLLARS. Allow +-in. for all turnings. in. for all turnings. 5 3 Ne “4 COLLAR ic. 8 Acer deafeing this Foundation Sleeve, ‘at out and open the eter. Then to Shean the Sleeve By fold over the front pare fo the following SLEEVE C FOUNDATION “SLEEVE FG. B SLEEVE FIG B € F ze Foldthe back af Sleeve over to meee the frre, and fellow the diagrams for deigh Required length +" BackFold foliow instructions Trig. B) Same width as above Same width ss above COLLAR, FIG. F EPAULET. FIG. D ac.22 CAPE. SLEEVES. Allow 1 in. for all turnings. Set ‘panmbe ess SLEEVE FIG 19 (Page 21) Sheeve Lengh +4" 54" Karmhle tes I FOUNDATION SLEEVE FOR FIGS, C.D.»10. Sleeve length +17

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