Discover India S Northeast July-August 2017

voLume no. 02 | issue no.
05 | 100
| P18 |
10 birding in thin air:

thangu Valley and tso
Lhamu PLateau in sikkim
36 an eVocatiVe heritage
tour: siVasagar, the
caPitaL of the erstwhiLe
46 with both feet on the
ground: a refreshing
five-day tuting-singha
are rewarding sPots ahom kingdom trek in arunachaL
july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast
Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017
lone rider: This solo ride to Ta-
wang and Bumla is not for those
who need creature comforts, but
rewarding for those who dare
organic
dishes
the city
try out Some diStinct

indigenouS cuiSineS of
tripurA
mountain
birding heritage
tour
food
thangu valley and tso lhamu plateau An evocAtive heritAge

in Sikkim are rewarding destinations for tour of in And Around
birding and more SivASAgAr, cApitAl of the
erStwhile Ahom Kingdom
1
2 6
4
3
8 5
the region compriSing the

8 wonderS of the country.
the gAtewAy to SoutheASt
ASiA. the finAl frontier for
nAture loverS And thoSe
with itchy feet
eVery steP you taKe:

Try this 5-day Tuting-
Singha trek in Arunachal
to be with nature and
enjoy the warm tribal
hospitality
our neighbourS
timeout Lake of Love baLi

let SohrA (cherrA- the heArt-ShAped rih one of the beSt
punjee) chArm you dil lAKe in mizorAm plAceS in world to
with itS quietude blurS the politicAl enjoy the bonuSeS
And cleAnlineSS All boundAry between of multiculturAl
Around indiA And myAnmAr influence
ExplOrE thE
FiNAl FrONtiEr
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7
While You
editor Kishore Seram
dePuty editor Prabanee Sarmah
Wait out the Rain

contributors
Gaurav Kataria, Charanjiv Kalha,
Ronel Seram, Aditya, Ritu Varuni,
Jitaditya Narzary, Ilakshee Bhuyan
Nath, Sushobhan Roy, Subhayan
I
Ghosh, Ali Mehdi, Anasuya Prasad,
Adam Saprinsanga, Nilopan Dey, T hAS BEEN RAININg heavily in the Northeast, but the downpour has
Caesar Singh Ch, Hoshner Reporter, not dampened either the spirit or the colour of our magazine. This
Tokili Holo, Ambika Viswanath, Jenita issue is yet another lively and engaging oneour cover story, on the
Khumukcham, Dr. Ganesh Nandi, game of polo, is a fascinating gallop through the realm of mythology
Dibyendu Das and down to the Imphal polo ground where modern polo has its roots.
There is also a nostalgic detour to Silchar in Assam to have a look at what
remains of the worlds first polo club, and remember the good old days.
design Rainbow Ink Design I would like to remind our readers that the most opportune time to
PubLishing consuLtant witness this gamewhich is considered the most spectacular of the equine
MT Creating Tomorrow sportsat the very spot where the game has its origin, is during the
Manipur Sangai Festival in the month of November.
All rights reserved. Reproduction in
whole or part without written permission is This issue will also take you on an evocative heritage tour in and around
prohibited. We take care in fact checking all Sivasagar, capital of the erstwhile Ahom Kingdom that was established in
articles and regret any error inadvertently 1228 and which lasted until the arrival of the British.
done. All opinions expressed by freelance
writers are their own and not necessarily For wildlife enthusiasts and birders, we have a great destination: Tso
those of Discover Indias Northeast. Lhamu lake in Sikkim. At an altitude of 17,487 feet above mean sea level, this
Editor : Kishore Seram. Printed and pub-
lished by Kishore Seram for and on behalf
pristine water body in Sikkim is one of the highest lakes in India, and the
of Outdoorpeople Tourism Promotion Pvt Tso Lhamu plateau and the Thangu valley combine is an exotic expanse to
Ltd. Printed at G.H. Prints Pvt Ltd, A-256, explore.
Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, New
Delhi-110020 and published at C/o If you are the solo traveller type, check out the 5-day Tuting to Singha
Questrails Adventure Pvt Ltd, 5-L, 2nd trek in Arunachal Pradesh. It is an enriching experience to meet the local
Floor, Shahpurjat, New Delhi-110049. tribes of this region, like the Adi, the Mishmi, the Memba and the Khamba,
Phone: +919810699771
and to get a better understanding of their livelihood and lifestyle. Or follow
traveL consuLtant the tread marks of Ali Mehdi, who took it allthe smooth with the bumps,
Manishankar Ghosh rain and slushin his solitary ride to Tawang and through Ziro valley.
+91 9810299733
Our softer, romantic destinations in this issue include Sohra
(Cherrapunjee), which, with its breathtaking landscape and beautiful
advertising enquiries:
Niraj Dubey weather, is already a very popular port of call with both foreign and
+91 9810068372
domestic tourists visiting Meghalaya. It is also a great destination to enjoy
+91 9810699771 the rains.
customercare@outdoorpeople.in Another romantic spot is a relatively unknown lake Rih Dil in Myanmar.
subscriPtion enquiries:
The heart-shaped lake might be in foreign territory, but it is one of the
subscribe@outdoorpeople.in most popular destinations on this side of the borderboth historically and
culturally, Mizos are deeply connected to this part of Myanmar. If you are
editoriaL enquiries:
editor@outdoorpeople.in visiting Mizoram, take a trip to this beautiful lake that blurs the political
boundary between India and Myanmar.
Monsoon certainly limits travel plans in the Northeast region, but lets
volume 02 issue 05 not forget that no sooner than the rains subside, big ticket events including
Ziro Music Festival in Arunachal (28 September-1 October), Manipur
July-August 2017
Sangai Festival (21-30 November); and Hornbill Festival of Nagaland (1-10
Total No. of pages 100 December), will take place one after another. So, start planning nowyou
need to plan well in advance keeping in mind the extra miles to be covered.
FOR quERiES
AnD FEEDbAcK
feedback@outdoorpeople.in
Ph. no: +91 9810699771
cOvEr phOtO kishore seram
MANIPuRI POLO PLAyER jETHOLIA THONGbAM
Editor
PHOTOGRAPH by rONEl SErAm
Join us on www.facebook.com/discoverindiasnortheast

8
coming soon
heres a list of events to
help you maximise your
travel experience
epic myth through his songs.

nagal an d
People perform various rituals and
make offerings to gods and goddesses
during the celebrations. they also present naknyLm festivaL
gifts of meat and apong (rice beer) to july naknylm is celebrated by the chang tribe
neighbours and relatives thus cementing in the month of July in tuensang district.
family and social relationships. On this day there are exchanges of gifts and
food items amongst friends and relatives.
Meat, wine and freshly packed bread are distributed to
ziro festivaL people. Games like top spinning, tugofwar, high jump,
of music long jump, climbing of oiled pole and jumping and grapping
September
the Ziro Festival of big lumps of well cooked meat hung in rows along a
ar u n a c ha l Music is a great outdoor
festival for music
bamboo rope are enthusiastically played. the womenfolk
play the Kongkhim. competitions involving instruments
P r ad e s h aficionados and amateurs with an ear are also held. Men and women, young and old, all engage
for music. as in earlier editions, the themselves in feasting and merrymaking the whole day but
four-day festival will be held in the Ziro do not indulge in dancing.
soLung valley, one of the most picturesque
September solung is the most popular locations in the state. Perched at 5,500
festival of the adis of feet, the valley is surrounded by misty
arunachal Pradesh which is mountains. the festival will be held
celebrated on september 1 from 28 september to 1 october in Ziro
metumniu festivaL
the Yimchungers celebrate Metumniu
every year. though primarily an agro-based valley, where home stays and camps are AuguSt festival from 4-8 of august every year
festival, it also reflects the socio-religious available. it promises some electrifying
features of the people. the three main after the harvest of millet. the festival is
performances from national and global
parts in the celebration of this festival are: connected with prayers for the departed
artistes. in the past years, the festival
sopi--Yekpi ( also called Limir-Libom), the souls. an elder known as Kheanpuru, after due prayers,
has hosted talented figures like Steve
first part and the sacrificial day; Binnyat, the inaugurates the five-day festival. There are separate
shelley, Lee ranaldo, indus creed, Peter
second part which involves the ritual offering names for each dayshito, Zhihto, Zumto, Khehresuk, and
Cat Recording Company, Barmer Boys,
to the goddess of crops, Kine nane, and Sheresuk. On the first day, the community cleans the village,
Menwhopause, Louw Majaw, shaair and
thirdly ekop (also called taktor), the ritual for and fixes the roads that have been ravaged by rains. On
Func, Guru rewben Mashangwa etc.
protection against evil spirits by appeasing the second day, the paths leading to the fields are cleared
visitors are treated to some super music
to Gumin-soyin, the household guardian, and debris from landslides is cleared. on the third day,
in those four scintillating days, amidst
and Doying Bote, god of wisdom and human inter-village roads are taken up in the cleanliness drive. on
verdant surroundings.
welfare. the fourth day, water points and springs are cleaned, giving
Ziro is 450 km from Guwahati a new look to the village.
the main highlight of the festival is the (assam)about 12 hours by road once everything is spruced up, the village invites
religious dance called Ponung which is depending on the weather. Guwahati is friends and relatives for food prepared with millet, gifts
performed by girls in the evenings led by the the nearest airport, while naharlagun are exchanged and dance troupes go round the village to
Miri, the singer of aabangs, who narrates the (arunachal) is the nearest railhead. charm the young and old.

boat race on heikru hidongba: by caesar singh ch
maniPur
Janmastami
si KK im AuguSt Lord Krishnas birthday is celebrated on the eighth
day of the new moon in the month of thawan
(July-august) in Manipur. this year, it falls on 25th
drukPa tshechi august. it is celebrated by the Meitei hindus with
great enthusiasm and devotion, with many devotees keeping a fast
this festival held on 27 July
july on that day, aside from visiting temples. the main rush is seen at
celebrates Lord Buddhas first
the Mahabali temple, where a large festival is regularly organised.
preaching of the Four noble
in many other temples as well, the priests recite stories of the birth
Truths. On this day, the Buddha
and life of Lord Krishna.
preached his first sermon of the four Noble Truths
to his five disciples at Deer Park in Sarnath. The
first Noble Truth is the Noble Truth of suffering, heikru hidongba
the second is the truth of the origin of suffering,
Karma and Delusion, and their causes, and the September celebrated in the month of september, the festival
mizoram third noble truth is the cessation of the suffering is visually very appealing as the ceremony has
or the attainment of nirvana. the fourth noble many elements to it, such as vaishnavism, as well
truth is the truth of the eight Fold Path leading to as traditional Meitei elements. on the occasion a
nirvana. in Gangtok, prayers are held at the Deer community boat race takes place as well. Before the start of the
mim kut Park and at Muguthang, in extreme North Sikkim. boat race, the idols of Lord Govinda are placed in a Khabak Lakpa
AuguSt- Mim Kut is a very boat (two boats tied together) and are taken on a procession along
September significant festival a designated moat. Devotees gather along the banks of the moat
of Mizoram which guru rinPoches and offer garlands of heikru (gooseberry), seasonal fruits, flowers
celebrates the
AuguSt
thrunkar tshechu and aarti to the deities. the festival is a big draw for tourists and
harvesting of maize in the state. it Guru thrunkar tshechu is devotees in the Bijoy Govind area, as later during the ceremony,
usually falls in the months of august celebrated as the birth day of Guru long narrow boats race against each other with rowers dressed in
and september. Mim Kut is also a Padmasambhava, reverentially traditional finery. A recent addition to the festival is boat racing for
time when people come together and referred as Guru rinpoche in eastern himalayan female rowers as well.
give respect to the dead by erecting a region and sikkim in particular on 2 august.
memorial platform. it is believed that Guru rinpoche is revered and worshipped as
the souls of the ancestors come and the guardian saint in sikkim who blessed this
visit during this festival. Maize, bread, land as Bayul Demojong (hidden valley of rice)
clothes, and other accessories that are
usually required for a living are offered
and transmitted tantric Buddhism in the region ENTRY
adjoined by Bhutan and Tibet in the 8th Century
to the deceased souls. AD. Among the galaxy of Buddhist monks, PERMITS
arahats and rinpoches, the prominence of Guru
Padmasambhava as the principal associate *Entry permits are not required for Indians or
and disciple of Lord Buddha stands out. It was foreigners to visit Assam, Tripura and Meghalaya.
tr i Pur a his prominence that transformed this land into
predominantly a Buddhist land. *Inner Line Permit (ILP) is required for Indian
citizens to enter Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland
and Mizoram.
tendong Lho rum
boat festivaL AuguSt faat *RAP: To visit Sikkim or Arunachal Pradesh,
AuguSt- The Boat Festival is an
foreigners must obtain Restricted Area Permit
tendong Lho rum Faat is the (RAP).
September annual festival in the oldest festival of indigenous Lepcha
state. this year it will community of sikkim and is held on *Foreigners are no longer required a RAP to visit
be organised during the Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur. However they
7-8 august every year. the festival is related to a must register themselves at the local Foreigners
last week of August or the first week of legend of deluge. the indigenous Lepchas residing Registration Office (FRO) of the districts they
september at Melaghara, rudrasagar, in the himalayan belt had earlier named each and visit within 24 hours of arrival.
about 40 km from agartala. it is a every mountain, hills, rivers, valleys and ravines
popular event that draws people from all which was known as nye-Mayel-Lang. these *ILP is not required for Indian tourists visiting
across the state and world. Participants Sikkim or Manipur, but Indian tourists visiting
mountains and valleys figure prominently in their
cutting across all castes and creed take Manipur via Dimapur/Kohima require an Inner
local myths and folklores. tendong Lho rum Faat Line Permit to pass through Nagaland. This is
active part in the competition, which is is a unique ritual maintained by the fore-fathers. available from any Nagaland House, or Govern-
why the carnival is appealing to one and realizing its need to preserve this tradition of the ment of Nagaland office.
all. Prizes are given at the end of this Lepchas, the tourism Department has included this
pulsating race. festival in their calendar of events.

10
1 siKKiM
text & photographs By subhayan ghosh
Thangu Valley and TSo lhaMu PlaTeau are

rewarding deSTinaTionS for birding and More

11
sanglapu peak on the way from

gurudongmar to tso Lhamu

12
t
he intuition and prediction of local folk is road diversionone fork leading to Gurudongmar lake,
more accurate than Google Weather or another high altitude lagoon of the Sikkim Himalayas
Accuweather. I realised this last April, when and another to Tso Lhamu lake. The road after the
Lachenpa, our tour leader and resident of check post was too good to resist the accelerometer.
Lachen, warned us at a Gangtok taxi-stand We were racing high amidst the cold desert and flat
that we had to reach Lachen that day itself. terrain on the black roads and it seemed like we were
As the five of our trip members exchanged confused sprinting from here to eternity.
looks, Lachenpa explained that the day after, much The cold plateau is surrounded by the mighty Sino-
before sunrise, we had to set out from Lachen for our Indian Himalayan peaks, like Kanchengyao (6,889 m),
prized destination, Tso Lhamu lake. At an altitude of Chomo Yummo (6,829 m), Yulekhang (6,429 m), Chu-
17,487 feet above mean sea level, this pristine water man Khang (6,212 m), Sanglapu (6,224 m) and others.
body is one of the highest lakes in India, and is an When our vehicle stopped at nowhere around 9am,
arduous five-hour-long road journey from Lachen. we were just awe-struck by the beauty of a goliath
It is noteworthy to mention that Lachen is a pictur- frozen lake hugged by these mountain peaks. After
esque village and is one of the most popular tourist cherishing some moments at Tso Lhamu lake, and
destinations in North Sikkim. It is also six hours from wondering how close we were to China, we proceeded
Gangtok, the state capital. That day when Lachenpa for the return journey. This is when we saw some
told us of our travel needs, it had been sunny, with movements at the Tso Lhamu plateau. We discovered
a clear blue sky, and so all of us had exclaimed in that to be flocks of roosting Blanfords Snow-finch,
surprise. Lachenpa grinned sweetly and replied that White Rumped Snow-finch, Brandts mountain finch
the day after tomorrow, it would probably rain above and Rufous Necked Snow-finch. While we were mes-
the mountains of Lachen. So it was better that we merised by their activities, we saw the big shadow
attempt to venture to Tso Lhamu tomorrow itself. He of a Himalayan vulture hovering above us. Suddenly,
also assured us that though it was noon at Gangtok, from numerous holes over the cold desert plateau, we
we would safely reach Lachen by 7pm, as the roads could see the peeping faces of Plateau pikas, as if they
are in good condition in that part of the hills. With no were greeting us in their territory. What a beauty to
further delay, we started our drive; reached Lachen behold so many of them in that beautiful terrain.
at around 6.45pm, had early dinner after checking into We decided to come down to Thangu valley after
our pre-booked hotel room and slipped under a brief visit to Gurudongmar lake. On the way back
the blankets. from Tso Lhamu to Gurudongmar, we encountered
The next morning, we started as early as 4 am and exotic birds like the Robin accentor, the Alpine ac-
had reached an intermediate village called Thangu at 7 centor, the Snow pigeon, the Yellow billed chough,
am. This is the last village on this route, and is flanked as well as the deadly Little owl and Collared owlet.
by Lachen river on one side and Thangu valley on the After that it was time for the sightings of mammals
other. Wasting no time, we proceeded for our destina- like the Tibetan gazelle, the Tibetan wolf, the Hima-
tion, and en-route, we only felt the presence of the layan marmot, etc. Unexpectedly, a herd of Tibetan
Indian Army and Indo Tibetan Border Police at various argali crossed the slopes of the plateau in a carefree
check posts. After one such check-post, there is a manner. We then reached Gurudongmar lake by 11am.
On the way back

frOm tsO Lhamu tO
GurudOnGmar, we
saw exotic birds
like robin accen-
tor, alpine accen-
tor, snow pigeon
13
(clockwise): green tailed

Sunbird, little owl in flight, snow
pigeon; (facing page): rufous
bellied niltava

14
basic info
The Thangu Valley and Tso
Lhamu Lake is located in north
sikkim bordering china and india.
It is approximately 275 Km from
Bagdogra airport via Gangtok.
Nearest airport is Bagdogra
airport in West Bengal.
Nearest Rail station is New
Jalpaiguri Junction railway station
in West Bengal.
Best season to visit the place is
either april/May or september/
october.
This area requires special permis-
sions to be obtained prior to visit.
(clockwise) blue fronted redstart, rosy

pipit in breeding plumage, Buff barred
warbler; (facing page top to bottom):
crested serpent eagle, rufous gorgetted
flycatcher, Blue capped rock thrush

gurudongmar laKe
at 17,100 ft, Gurudongmar is revered by both Buddhists and Hindus as a sacred
lake. encircled all around by snow-covered mountains the lake freezes during the 15
winter, except at one spot said to be blessed by Guru Rimpoche
After spending some time by the high altitude

lake aside Gurudongmar peak (6,715 m), we halted
at the last military check-post on our return to
Thangu. Unbelievably, we were served hot Gulab-
jamun and smoking hot coffee prepared with Yak
milk it tasted delicious at that high altitude. Due
to strenuous travel for two consecutive days and
exposed to such high altitudes, three of our team
mates got altitude sickness and we decided to call
it a day and returned to Lachen by 3pm.
The next morning, we woke up to the chorus
of rainfall and saluted Lachenpa for his earlier
prediction. The entire day went by leisurely and
we planned that in the remaining two days we
would venture into Thangu valley on one day and
lower Lachen the next day. As planned, we drove
to Thangu the very next day. From there we had to
explore the valley on foot. After trekking for nearly
three hours we were rewarded with the sightings
of Rosy pipit in breeding plumage, Snow pigeon,
Dark Breasted Rose-finch, Fire Tailed sunbird,
after trekkinG fOr

nearLy three hOurs
we spOtted rosy
pipit in breeding
plumage, Fire tailed
sunbird, crested
serpent eagle,...
Crested Serpent eagle, Chestnut Headed tesia,

Scarlet finch, Red Billed chough, etc. Although we
got brief glances of the exotic Blood pheasant and
Tibetan Snow-cock, we regretted that we couldnt
photograph them. We consoled ourselves that
some memories are better captured in mind rather
than on camera. After lunch, we decided to explore
the higher plateaus of Thangu valley to photograph
the Tibetan Snow-cock and to get a glimpse of
other available mammals like Tibetan Sand fox,
Woolly hare, Red fox, Himalayan Blue sheep, etcet-
era. But the Rain-God did not permit, as it started
to pour again and we were forced to drive back
to Lachen.
On the last day of our trip, we decided to go
birding in the lower ridges of Lachen and sighted

alPine beauty
tso Lhamu lake is surrounded by the mighty sino-indian himalayan peaks like
16 Kanchengyao (6,889 m), chomo Yummo (6,829 m), Yulekhang (6,429 m), chuman
Khang (6,212 m) and sanglapu (6,224 m)
(clockwise from above): gu-

rudongmar Lake; a Plateau pika;
the birding team on the way
from tso Lhamu to gurudong-
mar; Last military checkpost
before the diversion to tso
Lhamu; thangu village; (facing
page) tibetan argali

17
many graceful beauties like the Darjeeling wood- for sightings of exquisite birds and mammals. This
pecker, the Rufous bellied niltava, the Plumbeous bio-diversity zone encircled by Khanchendzonga
water redstart, the Blue fronted redstart, the Biosphere Reserve on one side, Yumthang Valley
White capped redstart, the Black redstart, the Biosphere reserve on other side and Tibetan
Grey backed shrike, the Rufous gorgetted flycatch- Plateau on another, is a treasure trove for adven-
er, the Green tailed sunbird, the Greenish crowned ture lovers and naturalists who want to get
warbler, the Buff barred warbler, the Himalayan engrossed in serene landscapes, to cherish the
Bulbul, the Grey winged blackbird, the White col- ecological biodiversity of the planet and to feel
lared blackbird, the Blue capped rock thrush, etc. the harmony of nature. The sights of elusive
After returning, as a toast to such a beautiful trip, mammals and colourful birds amidst the cold
all of us including Lachenpa, tried Tongba, a whole desert like landscape, rainfall and dew drops on
grain millet-based local alcoholic beverage. the roof and chirping birds emerging from the
The Thangu valley and Tso Lhamu plateau are misty fog can make any visitor come back here
less explored destinations with extreme potential again and again.
by flight:
0
Km From Delhi bagdogra
2 hr 4
hr 7 3 2 TSO
Path by train:
Finder NjP Gangtok hr hr hr LHAMu
From Delhi
23 6.30 Lachen Thangu
hr hr

18

19
cover story
text By Jenita KhumuKcham
photographs By ronel seram
2
inside the Lord marjing

shrine in manipur

20
he first time I came across the name about 30 minutes to reach the place. Eerie seren-
Samaton Ayangba was in 2014, in a very ity surrounds the hilly forest, and at the entrance,
popular folk song sung by Manipuri you see iron gates with the deity Ipudhou Marjing
folk singer Mangka Mayanglambam. Khupam and horses wrought on it. In front of us, as
The only information I had about it was we entered, was a flight of seemingly endless stairs.
that it was the name of Lord Marjings Wondering how far we needed to climb, we started to
winged steed. climb anyway. A little later, however, huffing and puff-
However, as the years rolled on, I had found myself ing, we reached the Lords shrine. There were so many
wondering from time to time about the mythical miniature horse figurines at the stairs, in front of the
horsewhat the divine steed looked like, if it looked deity and also on the entire wall showcasing it. The
like Pegasus, or any other mythological winged horse deity looked majestichuge, clad in layers of clothes
we have heard of, what the story behind its associa- and garlands, with parasols at each side and a canopy
tion with Lord Marjing was, and so on. of white and gold hanging from above. And behind Ip-
Cut to circa 2017: I decided to explore that lore. And udhou Marjing was his consort Ibendhou Khunbusubi
to whet my curiosity, I roped in my cousin and de- Khongleima, his son Tolomkhonba and daughter-in-
cided to visit Heingangching hill, where the shrine of law Thoudu Nungkhel Leima. One has to peer to see
Lord Marjing was located. It was a cold, foggy morning the rest of the deities as they are smaller in size and
and we set off at 7.30. The road revealed some lovely situated in ascending order on the face of the hill;
scenes on the way, with the fields touching the hills in also, the roof of the shrine is low and covers them.
the distance. I began to wonder how pretty our desti- There are other deities in the shrine as well, like
nation would be like itself; its quite famous and I was the seven mothers of the seven clans of the Meitei
visiting for the first time. community: Heireima, Yaireima, Hipokpi, Yaipokpi,
Heingangching is located at Heingang, Imphal Hikubi, Yaikubi and Yaisana, and also ImaImoinu (the
East, around 10 km from the heart of Imphal. It took goddess of wealth and prosperity). In the middle of
the shrine dedicated to Lord

marjing, the god of horses

21
the shrine, there is also a creek. Moving on from the

main area there are concrete trails up the hill that
lead to different entities and a place related to Lord
Marjing and the deities. There is also a spot for birds
of the forestthe priests cut and leave fruits here, and
the birds arrive in flocks to eat those offerings.
Lord Marjing is a deity associated with Sagol Kan-
gjei (Polo) and horses. It is said that he was the first
to ride a pony, and is known as God of the horses.
People offer horses, polo mallets (kangjei) and horse
figurines for his blessings. The relationship between
Lord Marjing and Samaton Ayangba has layers and
layers of interpretations. Samaton Ayangba, as the
name suggests, is swift (Ayangba means swift) and
strong, white in colour and has wings on its front legs
below the knee.
The relationship between Marjing and Samaton
Ayangba is considered the perfect man-horse rela-
tionship. Their story is narrated in the creation myth
of Manipuris through the Puyas (ancient Manipuri
manuscripts). In the creation myth, the Almighty Atiya
Sidaba decides to create the Earth, and breathes out
his two sons Asiba and Apanba from his nose. Asiba,
the elder son, is entrusted to create land and vari-
ous life forms. Asiba creates the seven layers of the
heavens and the earth. Then comes the conflict and
the compromise of the humansa being to be created
and ultimately rule the earth. The Almighty ordains his
younger son, Apanba to create human beings and rule
the earth which Asiba painstakingly created. Dis-
tressed, Asiba ascends to the moon for a sojourn, and
decides to disrupt the efforts of his brother and God-
dess Khongjomnubi in their labour to conceive man to
inhabit earth. Asiba sends the winged horse, Samaton
Ayangba, to repeatedly destroy the creation of human
beings. Ultimately, the Almighty calls Asiba from the
heingangching hill, where the
moon to help his brother create man in the image of shrine of Lord marjing is located
the Almighty. For the act of creation to proceed un-
interrupted, Atiya felt the necessity to trap Samaton
Ayangba. Atiya creates Marjing and he consequently
traps and tames the horse.
The trapping and taming of Samaton Ayangba al-
legorically tells the story of the primal life force. It
describes it in the most sensual and erotic imagery. In
the ancient Manipuri world, where fertility mattered,
and where instruments of war mattered even more,
the pony symbolised both. The pony as a metaphor
of primal life force in the creation myth is further ex-
tended to a narrative of naming various places in the
realms after each link in the chain of events, leading to
the ultimate domestication of the horse. These associ-
ated places are given specific names of places across
the valley of present day Manipur.
According to the Thangwairol manuscript, (Lore of
the Land of North), Marjing stalked the winged horse.
He lost trail of the horse at one place; that place was
named Sagolmang. He caught the horse using a leg

22
youngsters, in traditional cos-

tume, astride ponies participate
at a Lai haroaba festival; (facing
page): Besides fruits and flowers,
offerings to Lord Marjing include
polo mallets and pony figurines
trap made of cane at a place now known as Waiton. The Manipuri pony has been an integral part of
Ishaikha is the name given to the place where the Manipuri civilisation, culture, religion and national
horse chewed up the trap and tried to escape. The life. Ancient Manipur was a militaristic nationpo-
place where Marjing clipped its wings and pruned nies were not kept as pets, they were rather kept
its mane and tail to beautify it is known as Makou either as coursers or war horses. Experts say that
Lammahal. There are many places associated with there are various accounts of the pony written
the trapping and taming and finally domestication in the Puyas, dated to hundreds of years before
of Samaton Ayangba. Though the chains of events the birth of Christ, and that they themselves have
involving Samaton Ayangba allegorically narrate come across more than 25 Puyas that describe the
the creation myth and primal life source, it also pony. The pony is also associated with divinity,
describes the importance, significance, character- heroism, romance and the daily lives of the ancient
istics and qualities of the Manipuri pony. past. While Polo is a sport it also is a cultural mani-

creation myth
the reLationshiP between Marjing and samaton ayangba is considered the per-
fect man-horse relationship. their story is narrated in the creation myth of Manipuris 23
through the Puyas (ancient Manipuri manuscripts)
festation of intricate interweaving of faith, beliefs the beginning of cultivation to the weaving of
and consciousness, associated with the pony and cloth. In one of the rituals, the priestess dance
the material and non-material cosmology of the with a polo mallet, swinging it back and forth in
ancient Manipuris. search of a divine damsel for the deity. Many ritual
Even today, the creation myth that was institu- songs and dances, re-enacting the fertility rite,
tionalised by the ancient Manipuris in the form of which are highly charged with erotic elements
a religious and social festival called Lai Haraoba are performed. By doing so, it is believed that the
is celebrated in many parts of Manipur. On the Almighty and the divine beings will bless the earth
last day of the festival, performers and priestess with happiness and prosperity.
re-enact the creation myth, from the formation To Manipuris, Lord Marjing, Samaton Ayangba
of the foetus in the womb to birth, and human and the pony are the symbols of divinity, heroism,
civilisation, with the construction of houses and strength, fertility and romance.

24
manipur sangai festival, which is held in novemBer every year, offers a

great opportunity to enjoy the most spectacular of equine sports at
the spot where the game of modern polo has its roots
a polo match in traditional format during sangai festival

traditional score
in the traditionaL Manipuri polo, sagol Kangjei, there are no goal posts. a goal is
scored by a team when the ball crosses the line on the width of the field on the other 25
end. a goal is announced by the sounding of a bugle or the blow of a conch
international polo match in modern format being played at imphal polo ground

26
the england team at the 2nd manipur statehood day womens Polo tournament held
in january 2017

international womens Polo match
to create awareness to save the endangered pony and promote tourism, Manipur
organised an international womens polo tournament for the first time in January 27
2016, as part of its statehood day celebration
team usPa women takes on the hurlingham Polo association (hPa), uk, at the 2nd manipur
statehood day womens Polo tournament

28
Ponies at a breeding farm

in Lamphel, imphal west
*according to the manuscript *Polo is a game played by the gods, the Mapal Kangjeibung (after a long hiatus) ponies only despite the efforts.
Kangjeirol(the Lore of Kangjei) sagol kings, the elites and the commoners organised by Manipur horse riding & *First international Womens Polo tour-
Kangjei or Manipuri Polo originated alike in Manipur. Polo association (MhrPa) and funded nament was organised in 2016 (January
during the reign of king Kangba in circa by nicholas J.a. colquhoun-Denvers 17 t0 26) to celebrate statehood Day
*there are many polo clubs in Manipur. (President, Federation of international
3,100 BC. some have come up for the love of the in Manipur. it was organised again this
Polo) to revive and preserve the original year from 17-20 January.
*Mapal Kangjeibung or the imphal game, some to preserve the culture and form of polo, sagol Kangjei, and to
Polo Ground is the worlds oldest polo heritage of the sport, while others were promote the Manipuri pony breed which
ground. personal endeavours solely devoted for BeliefS And TABooS
was on the verge of extinction. ASSociATed wiTh horSeS
*a silver salver lies in the national army their loved ones.
*since 2013, the Manipur government *Whorls on the base of the neck near
Museum, London that was given to Jo- *among the clubs in Manipur there are collaborated with the sangai tourism the shoulder brings status and honour
seph Ford sherer in 1964 in recognition only two clubs run by women. District Festival which is an international annual to the owner.
of his contribution in bringing the game Pana sagol Kangjei was established in event to organise the international polo
of polo to mainland india from Manipur. 1993 by huidrom achoubi for her only *non-synchronised whorls at the base of
tournament every year. it attracts till the ears are considered signs of cunning
*the epithet Father of english Polo son who loves ponies and chingkhei date many international visitors.
hunba Polo club which was in estab- and dishonesty.
is inscribed into the salver that marks *MhrPa has been taking various *Whorls on the cheek are sure to bring
the journey of the modern game of polo lished in 1995 by thoinu Devi for the
love of her younger brother Koaba, (who steps to promote sagol Kangjei to the shame and ignominy to the owner.
from Manipur to the rest of the world. world and preserving Manipuri pony *Whorls on the flanks mean injury,
is a polo player).
*it is said that the descendants of Jo- breed from extinction by establishing a proneness to enemy weapons, though
seph sherer have decided to return the *District Pana is the only club that trains breeding farm in Lamphel, imphal West. the horse is loyal to the owner.
priceless silver salver to its birthplace in female players. But Manipuri pony is an extremely en- *if horses neigh at night or the image of
Manipur for the final resting, a reminder *in 2012, the 6th Manipur Polo dangered species according to experts horse is seen against the sun, conflict
of the great man and his legacy. international tournament was held at and the breeding farm has around 100 and war are imminent.

29
jetholia thongbam
in the words of polo player jetholia thongBam
i StArtEd playing polo four years ago. I have won fourth position in show jumping and first position in team
championship. i come from a family where everyone is a die-hard fan of the indigenous game. My uncle is a polo
aficionado, who has been working hard to form a team, and my elder sister is also a polo player.
I was first trained at Manipur Horse Riding & Polo Association in Lamphelpat, and later shifted to Eastern Students
club. Polo needs a lot of perseverance as you are dealing with equipment and a living being. You need to respect
the animal to cultivate a trust factor. During the training, we were made to bath horses, feed them and look after
them. this way they remember us and build a bond, we were told.
I practice every Sunday, and over three times a week when tournaments are near. We were first trained with
adamant horses that wont follow our instruction properly. My trainers used to say, if you can ride on such horses,
youll be able to ride any horse.
Most of the clubs in various localities have been taking active part in conserving the game. if you fail to go for
practice one day, they will come to your house the next day to advise you. Their enthusiasm will make it hard for
you to think of quitting. Many women have started playing polo, but the number is still low as compared to men
players in the state. so, the club members give importance to women players and try their best to resolve issues if
we have any.
----------------------------------------------------------
Extract from the original interview carried by souls of manipur

30
the cachar club

at silchar, assam
the glorious link Between silchar and modern polo

text By dr. ganesh nandi
photographs By dibyendu das
B
arak valley is a historically significant Nepalis, the tea garden labourers and various others.
place spanning the districts of Cachar, Although Barak valley has a rich artistic and cultural
Karimganj and Hailakandi, in the southern part tradition, it is largely unknown to the outer world
of Assam. From the point of view of its racial, due to the poor communication with this difficult
religious, linguistic, cultural and ethnic diversity, geographic area. Various rulers, including the British
Barak valley is in itself a mini India. The inhabitants of have reigned over Barak valley. Silchar, the district
the valley are the Bengali Hindus, the Bengali Muslims, headquarters of Cachar district, has witnessed many
the Dimasas, the Nagas, the Hmars, the Manipuris, the historical events, such as the birth of the game of
Kukis, the Assamese speaking people, the Riangs, the modern polo. The Silchar Polo Club, founded in 1859

31
by British military officers and tea planters, was the the polo club in 1859 is credited to Major General JF
first modern club to play polo in the world. Sherer. Seven other founding members were James
History tells us that old version of polo originated Abernethy, Arthur Brownlow, James Davidson, Ernst
from ancient Persia, that in 600 AD, the first polo Echardt, Julius Sandeman, A. Stuart and W. Walker.
game was played between the Turkis and Persian. In many parts of the Barak Valley, various polo clubs
Subsequently, it was scattered around the world. The were establishedsuch as Chargola Polo Club, Chatla
game then came into India through the Mughals and it Valley Polo Club, Happy Valley Polo Club (Kumbir-
was exported from Persia. gram), Longai Valley Polo Club, Manacherra Polo Club,
The modern game of polo comes from Manipur, North-Cachar Polo Club (Dolu), Barnarpur Polo club
where the game was known as sagol kangjei, kanjai- etc. The game expanded to other parts of the coun-
bazee, or pulu. Manipuri people have played it tradi- try after this, most notably to Kolkata and parts of
tionally. In Manipur, the origins of the game are traced erstwhile East Bengal. In 1962, Kolkata got its first Polo
to early precursors of sagol kangjei. This was one of Club, which is still in operation.
three forms of hockey in Manipur, the other ones be- With the British taking up the game seriously,
ing field hockey (called khong kangjei) and wrestling- polo slowly spread around the world. In 1869, British
hockey (called mukna kangjei). In Manipur, polo is cavalry teams played the first game in England, where
traditionally played with seven players to a side. The the rules of modern polo were drafted, and in 1872,
players are mounted on the indigenous Manipuri Captain Francis Herbert established the first Polo Club
pony, which stands less than 13 hands (52 inches,
132 cm). There are no goal posts, and a player scores
simply by hitting the ball out of either end of the field.
in manipur, the Game

Players strike the ball with the long side of the mallet
head, not the end. Players are not permitted to carry
the ball, although blocking the ball with any part of
the body except the open hand is permitted. The
sticks are made of cane, and the balls are made from
was pLayed even
the roots of bamboo. Players protected their legs by
attaching leather shields to their saddles and girths.
by cOmmOners. the
In Manipur, the game was played even by common-
ers who owned ponies. The kings of Manipur had a
kings oF manipur
royal polo ground within the ramparts of Kangla Fort.
Here they played at manung kangjei bung (literally,
had a royal polo
Inner Polo Ground). Public games were held, as they
are still are today, at the mapan kangjei bung (literally
ground within the
outer polo ground), a polo ground just outside the
Kangla. Weekly games, called hapta kangjei (weekly kangla Fort
polo) were also played in at a polo ground outside the
current Palace. The oldest polo ground in the world is
the Imphal Polo Ground in Manipur. in England at Clytha Park, near Abergavenny. Over
In the 1850s, the British who arrived in this region the years, polo has widely become acknowledged as a
for the tea plantations, discovered the game at the global sport, played in more than 80 countries world-
border of the Cachar district. Finding it fascinating, wide. It was also an Olympic sport from 1900 to 1936.
the British took it up. They established a recreation At the time the British in Silchar were taking keen
club in Silchar (Cachar) which was renowned as the interest in polo, king Churachand Singh was the ruler
Cachar Club. In 1859, this club became the first polo of Manipur (1891-1941). After him, Bodhachandra
club in the world. Under clause 6 of the Indian Com- became king of Manipur, from the year 1941 to 1949,
pany Act, 1882, this club got its registration in 1897 as when Manipur became a permanent part of India.
Cachar Club Limited Company. The British are known to have invited the kings of
The present sites of the D.S.A. ground, the Police Manipur to Silchar to play the modern game of polo.
ground, the Town Club, the playground of the Govt. It is said that when king Churachand Singh came to
Boys Higher Secondary School and Narsing HS School Silchar with his large team of polo players, they stayed
in Silchar were once a huge polo game ground, dur- at Shibari Road Tarapur, Silchar, presently known
ing British rule. This ground was renowned as Arls as Manipuri Basti (village). This village is estimated
ground (in the name of Assam Chief Commissioner Ar- to be more than a hundred years old, and hundreds
chaevel Arl) or Horse Racing Ground. In 1853-54, polo of Manipuri families reside there. Understandably,
was officially announced during the time of Deputy whenever the kings of Manipur came into Barak valley
Commissioner Robert Stuart, but the formation of to play polo, they generally stayed with the people of

32
traditional manipuri
Polo Players (1875)
their community. of the past.

It is said that Manipuris from the Basti turned up After Independence, when British returned to their
in full force to watch the game, but no one knows home, polo game gradually lost its glory and popular-
who won the match. According to villagers, the British ity at Silchartoday, this historic game is no longer
horses were much bigger, stronger and more energet- played here, except in 1979, when one exhibition polo
ic than the Manipuri kings horses. After the game, the match was held at Silchar. But a most remarkable
king returned to Manipuri Basti where a grand even- move was made in 2006, when an effort was taken to
ing ceremony was in place. Religious programmes, refresh the memory of polo for the Silchar peoplea
different types of dramas, and musical performance Polo Exhibition Match with the help of All Manipur
by traditional musicians brought by the king from Ma- Polo Association, Imphal. A match organizing com-
nipur enthralled the villagers. All the cultural events mittee was formed with Advocate Champak Dutta as
were held at the Radha-Govinda temple of Manipuri president and Advocate H. Babu Singha as General
Basti where king Churachand stayed. There are no Secretary. Union Heavy Industries Minister at that
documents available to show how many matches and time, Santosh Mohan Dev was Chief Patron of the
for how many days the game was played, but it is committee. A total of 18 players came from Manipur
believed that the matches were played often. Only the to play two exhibition matches. They were divided
Radha-Govinda temple still survives, but the condi- in two teams, Marjing and Thangjing. Two matches
tion of this temple is pathetic. This is the only silent were played in the India Club field in the presence of
witness of Silchar that links us to those royal incidents thousands of cheering spectators. The first match was

33
transcript of the write-up,

dated 27 feBruary 1913, that is
on display inside the present
cachar cluB, silchar
origin of english polo

silchar, the First club in the World
(by oLd cacharee)
duriNG thE recent Jubilee Tournament grows dim, and possibly before all the real home of polo, where it was a na-
of the Calcutta Polo Club several writers principal actors passed away, I venture tional game, and where it was played by
enlarged on the origin of the game and to give a short resume from the above the old and young, rich and poor, rajah
the oldest polo club, and today when and other records, of the manner in and peasant, all alike, and where anyone
the Club has just celebrated its Jubilee which the game came to be played by showing special skill was sure of rising
and bids farewell to one of their oldest, the English in India and what is really to notice in the State. And it will be seen
keenest, and most popular members, the oldest club. that the Manipuris, as far as the English
Sir Cecil Graham, it will not, I trust, be Polo has been played, as most people are concerned, were the first exponents
out of place if, as an old player myself, I know, along the north-east of India for a of the game, and that the game always
venture to correct these writers on one longer time than can now be traced with followed in their wake.
point and let the public know, and the any certainty; in Kashmir at Balkistan, at Next to Manipore lies the small (in
annals of polo records, what really is the Skardoo, and at Leh where it was played those days) frontier district of Cachar in
oldest club in existence. up and down the principal street. It is British territory into which for po-
It is quite true, as one writer remarks, recorded also that with Akbar the Great litical reasons emigrated and settled
that the subject has been so exhaus- it was his favourite game. But the most considerable numbers of Manipuris, in
tively written up in Badminton Magazine authentic account of it comes from Ma- fact, the valley and villagers were full
that any repetition of it is really not nipore, the small State between Cachar of them. And just as the English take
called for, still in support of my state- and Burma where, tradition has it, it was their national game of cricket with them
ment I must necessarily go over some played in the sixteenth century from wherever they go, so these Manipuris
old ground. And, so before memory before 1550, and which is probably the took their national game of polo (Kanjai

34
as they called it) with them to Cachar when Sherer visited Calcutta and acted
and played it regularly there. It can be as mentor to players, so popular did the
traced that they were joined in the game game become that in March of that year
as far back as 1853-54 by the few scat- was started in Calcutta Club which has
tered planters of the district. just celebrated its Jubilee. Probably its
The District of Cachar with its head- books record who the first members
quarters in Silchar was, prior to the were, but in my notes I find the follow-
Mutiny, administered in a semi-military ing as among them:-C.B.Stewart, R.H.
way by an officer known as the District Hills, John Thomas, Elliott Angelo, Colo-
Superintendent or Deputy Commission- nel Richard Readon, etc., etc.
er with an assistant to help him, and a Sherer had promised when in Cal-
Captain Robert Stewart, who was Assis- cutta to sometime bring down a team
tant Deputy Commissioner at the time of Manipuris to play them, and in 1864
I write of always joined the tea planters when an invitation to do so arrived, a
and Manipuris whenever a game was joe sherer, subscription was raised by the Silchar
the father of english Polo
possible at Silchar. These are the first Polo Club to defray their expenses and
recorded Englishmen who ever played a team of Manipuris who were known as
the game, which they called hockey
of ponies, the word polo subsequently
CalCutta The Band of Brothers left for Calcutta
by country boat and where after great
coming from Kashmir. merChants on difficulties they at length arrived, after a
journey, or rather a voyage, of over two
The game lapsed somewhat during
the Mutiny in 1857-58 when there was
their various weeks.
sterner work to attend to, but at its trips to CaChar At that time each team consisted of
termination the European population seven players and the side first scoring
in Cachar increased considerably. On had also seen seven goals was declared the winner.
the retirement of the Deputy Commis- the game and The goal posts were the two corner
sioner in 1859, Stewart succeeded to his flags and anywhere across the end lines
place, and Lieutenant Joe Sherer of the deCided to play between them constituted a goal. The
Indian Army, who joined him as Assis- it themselves names of this Band of Brothers were:-
tant Deputy Commissioner, at once took 1. Toolsi Sing; 2. Chowba Sing; 3. Ammu
enthusiastically to the game. These two Sing; 4. Omah Sing; 5 Tubal Sing; 6.
with the local planters decided to start Aema Ba; 7. Monge Pa.
a club to play in conjunction with the Earnest Echardt, of Silkuri. With their little handy tats of about
Manipuris. Accordingly in March of the W. Walker, of Bograhat 11-2, and scientific combined play, they
same year a meeting was held at Stew- A. Stuart, of Urrunabund easily defeated the larger and faster
artss bungalow and there was formed Cachar at that time, before the ad- ponies of the Calcutta men, who, before
the Silchar Polo Club which has been vent of steamers and railways, was prac- the Manipuris left, purchased the best
running ever since. And thus unhon- tically unknown to the outside world, of these ponies at very remunerative
oured and unsungalmost indeed un- and so for two years the game appears prices to the Manipuris. Some of these
known, as one writer has itwas started to have been confined to the district, till ponies survived to play before the
by Englishmen in this remote outpost in 1861, a Captain Eustace Hill, who was Prince of Wales as late (I think) as 1877.
of the Empire the first club to play the quartered at Dacca with a detachment Sherer was feted at the old Indigo
game which was destined to become an of his Regiment, the Lahore Light Horse, Mart in Calcutta and at that dinner by
English national pastime, and which in on a trip to Cachar, saw it played, got Calcutta itself he was given, as well as a
its season now occupies columns and the necessary particulars from Sherer, handsome presentation, the title which
columns of the sporting papers. and started the game at Dacca, but he has ever since been known by, and
At this meeting the following were whether a club was actually formed at which is inscribed beneath his portrait
present and were elected as the first that time I cannot say. in the old Retreat Club in Silchar, Joe
members of the club:- Meanwhile Calcutta merchants on Sherer, the Father of English Polo.
Captain Robert Stewart, Deputy their various trips to Cachar had also All honour to Calcutta for what they
Commissioner, Silchar. seen the game and decided to play it have always done for the game, but
Lieutenant Joe Sherer, Assistant themselves. Sherer gave them every leave to the remote little club in Silchar
Commissioner, Silchar. assistance and in 1861 or 1862 under the the credithonour, we might I think well
James Davidson, of Soubong. leadership of Mr. C.B. Stewart a start call itof being the first recorded club
Julius Sandmen, of Chutla Bheel. was made on the Ballygunge parade to play polo in the world.
James Abernethy, of Hailakandi. ground but only in spasmodic knock
Arthur Brownlow, of Hailakandi. about practice fashion. In 1863 however, February 27th, 1913

35
clockwise from above: old iron

gallery for Polo at cachar club,
Lobby of cachar club, the place
where the manipur king stayed at
silchar to play polo with the british
dr. ganesh nandi
played according to the rules of traditional Manipuri But after that till date no such positive initiative has
polo game, where both the teams had 7 players each. been taken for the promotion of polo. Due to the lack
In this match, team Marjing beat team Thangjing by of peoples enthusiasm, consciousness and support
14-10 goals. That game was very speedy and the audi- from the sports world and government, polo has lost
ence enjoyed it. The second match was played under its popularity at Silchar. Polo is now alive only in the
modern polo rules, and each team consisted of 4 play- Silchar peoples heart with historic pride and honour
ers. Marjing beat Thangjing by 5-4 goals in that match. because it has given this marginal area a new identity
The next day, an exhibition match was played by both and dignity on the world map.
those teams in Lala, Hailakandi district also.
These were exhibition matches, but they left a Dr. Ganesh Nandi is Asstt. Professor, Dept. of Visual
great impression on the sports lovers of Barak Valley. Arts, Assam University, Silchar

36

37
3 text and photographs By Jitaditya narzary
an eVoCaTiVe heriTage Tour of in and

around SiVaSagar, CaPiTal of The
erSTwhile ahoM KingdoM
t
hE priNcE was not happy. Internal established the Ahom kingdom in 1228 AD. It then
politics and incessant conflicts were lasted for 600 years and more, until the arrival of
weighing on his mind, and he was the British.
losing interest in ruling the land of his This is the basic history that everyone in
birth. Eventually, he decided to leave Assam learns at school. This is also why the city
his land, taking with him a powerful army on his of Sivasagar occupies an important position in the
march southwards, where he would build his own history of Assam, since most of the major
destiny and his own free kingdom. Ahom settlements were located in and around
Thus began the epic adventure of Chao- Sivasagar.
lung Sukapha, from Yunnan to Upper Assam As my bus entered Sivasagar, I noticed many
via Myanmar and Patkai Hills. On his arrival in monuments, one after another, which reminded
this land, he was delighted by the sight of the me of the many heritage walks I had done in
fecund plains from the hills. He eventually ended Delhi. And so, I decided to do a heritage tour
up calling this land the Golden Casket, and around Sivasagar myself.

where the ahoms ruled
sivasagar is located 363 km east of Guwahati and was earlier the capital of the
38 ahom kingdom, which was established in 1228 aD by chao-lung sukapha, who came
from Yunnan to Upper assam via Myanmar and Patkai hills
charaideo
t
he earLiest, and one of the most Sivasagar, but I had underestimated
important settlements of the the time it would take to travel that
Ahoms, was that of Charaideo distance. The bus took forever, and
stone gateway
in one of the
many maidams or tomb
(Che-Rai-Doi), which roughly the road wasnt particularly smooth
translates to town on the foothill of either. It was beginning to get dark
of the kings built on a
hillock the mountains in the Tai language. when I got there, but on a positive
This was Sukaphas first capital, and note, the site seemed to have been in
my first destination on this tour. good repair and had been beautified
Charaideo is around 30 km from recently. The only things left here

39
the museum has many

interesting facts about
king sukapha
nowadays are the maidams, or

tombs, of the kings. Originally there
I reached a large one that did have
a stone gateway. It look something
originally there
were around 150, spread over a vast like the homes of the Hobbits from were around 150
area; but now about 30 of them are
protected by the ASI, while the rest
the world of Tolkien, but in practice,
they were closer to the pyramids
maidams, but
have been vandalised or looted. as many valuable items and even now about 30 of
The maidams are located atop a living beings were believed to have
small hillock that has been furnished been buried with the dead king to them are pro-
with a newly built staircase and a help him in his afterlife. For those teCted by the
couple of cannons. As I reached who would like to know more about
the top, I could see a series of Sukapha, a shiny new museum asi, while the
hemispherical mounds. These were has been built nearby, evocatively rest have been
basically earthen mounds with no named Yunnan to Patkai to Che-
openings that I could see; but finally, Rai-Doi, describing his epic journey. vandalised

40
shivadol
a
fter sPending my first day at 1734 AD by Ambika, the Queen of Siba smaller temples within it as well,
Charaideu, I had barely one more Singha. It is basically a 104 foot tall called Vishnudol and Devidol, both
full day to cover the rest of what dome, with a mandapa (outdoor hall) following the same structure. All have
I wanted to see; but thankfully most of leading to the sanctum sanctorum. intricate sculptures on the walls.
them were within Sivasagar town itself. Another interesting aspect of the What is interesting is that Vishnudol
The next morning I decided to wake temple is the golden Kalasi, or vase, was dedicated to the neo-Vaishnavite
up early to make the most of the short at the top. The story goes that the sects while the Devidol catered to the
winter day. The first stop was Shivadol, original Kalasi was made of pure gold, traditional Sakta sects worshipping the
the central point of the town, located but was too valuable for its own good. goddess. That was actually a period of
on the banks of the Sivasagar tank, a It attracted unwanted attention, and schism between these two sects, and
large manmade lake that also attracts a eventually, the British took it down to I have read about endless conflicts
lot of birds. It was only 7am but already steal the gold. The current one is a gold between them. But this seemed to be
full of morning devotees. plated replica. an effort at reaching a compromise and
The Shivadol was constructed in The complex has a couple of building a more syncretic society.

joysagar and rang ghar
Joysagar is 5 km from sivasagar town. it covers an area over 318 acres and said
to be the biggest man made tank in the country. rang Ghar amphitheatre was built 41
by King Pramatta singha
crocodiles as well as other

rang ghar animals beyond my wildest
imagination.
It was built as a pavilion from
a
where the king would celebrate
fter shivadoL, I quickly walked building is believed to have been the various festivals, and watch
towards Rang Ghar. If there is inspired by the shape of the Ahom games such as bull fights, elephant
one iconic, instantly recognizable longboats, something that must have fights and cock fights. None of
monument in Assam, that is the Rang served them well in their numerous these games have survived into this
Ghar. Locals take immense pride in it as battles with the Mughals. day and age, but nevertheless, I
the oldest amphitheater in Asia. I could There are a couple of newly minted climbed up to the upper floor and
not exactly verify this claim but there is dragons atop the entry gate. They used tried to imagine the scene as it
no doubt about its grandeur. There is a to be the emblem of Ahom dynasty, would have been.
replica of it in Guwahati, and one more and a testimony of its oriental origins. The view of the vast compound
in Surajkund near Delhi. From a distance, the walls, with multiple from the top reminded me of
Built in 1744 by Pramatta Singha, it arches, appeared not to have been numerous Mughal monuments.
is basically a two-storied building with decorated except for at the top; but as In spite of the bitter wars, the
a recently renovated and beautified I moved closer, I could see some really Mughals must have given new
compound. The unique shape of the interesting sculptures, such as apes and ideas to the Ahom builders too.

42
talatal ghar
m
y next stop was Talatal Ghar, managed to sneak in would still get
which was a short walk from Rang lost in the tunnels. There were even a
Ghar. I also passed by a smaller couple of secret tunnels to be used as
building on the way, called Gola Ghar escape routes in the case of the worst
or Khar Ghar (ammunition depot) that happening.
looked pretty amidst the paddy fields. Sadly, most of the building is gone.
The Talatal Ghar, built and added to All that remains is one floor with a
over the decades by many kings, and very irregular geometry that is hard
completed in 1769, is something that I to describe. The upper floors were
have always had a deep fascination for. apparently made of wood and so did not
In its original form, it was a majestic, withstand the test of time. The stairs
seven-storey building with four floors leading down into the underground
above ground and three below. It was compartments are still visible, but it is
built like a maze, so that an enemy that longer safe to go that way.

in memory of his mother
JoydoL is on the bank of Joysagar Tank, a beautiful manmade lake. Both of these
were constructed by king rudra singha (1696-1714) in memory of his mother 43
Joymoti, who sacrificed her life to save her husband and his father
joydol
f
ive minutes walk away from Talatal dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
Ghar brought me to Joydol on the The most interesting parts of the
bank of Joysagar Tank, another temple are the sculptures on the
beautiful manmade lake. Both of these walls. It had the devi sculptures and
were constructed by Rudra Singha floral motifs that I saw in the other
(1696-1714) in memory of his mother monuments as well, but it also had
Joymoti, who sacrificed her life to save entire scenes on the walls, most
her husband and his father. (For those probably depicting warfare. One slab
who care about trivia, Joymoti was also even had people riding on camels, the
the subject of the first ever Assamese last animal I expected to see anywhere
feature film, also titled Joymoti, 1935.) in Assam. Most likely these are
The temple follows the same depictions of the invading armies from
structure as Shivadol, though it is the west.

44
Kareng ghar
t
he Last monument for the day was the feeling that the pyramidal shape looked like the pinnacle of civilisation,
Kareng Ghar in Garhgaon. It is 14 might have been a result of decay rather but the Ahom kingdom collapsed in the
km away from town, on the same than design. 50 years following that. Their fate was
route as Charaideo. I had missed out Sadly, my quick Sivasagar trip not too different from that of their arch
on visiting it the previous day, as it ended here in Garhgaon. What I found rivals, the Mughals, who built some of
had become dark very quickly; and so, interesting in all these monuments the greatest monuments in India. They
I found a shared van going that way was that they all seem to have been also fought many wars together, and
and hopped on. Reaching Garhgaon, constructed around the same period. people in Assam still take great pride in
I remembered that it had also been Older Ahom structures were mostly the fact that they defeated the Mughals
used as the capital of the kingdom for made of wood, and did not survive. many times. However, there were
several centuries. What is now left By the beginning of the 18th century, cultural exchanges too, as is evident in
of the original city is a multi-storied they must have become aware of the some of these constructions.
palace, called Kareng Ghar, built in 1752 structures elsewhere in India, and must There were still a few smaller
by Rajeshwar Singha. Before that, there have developed the technology to build monuments that I could not visit,
had been a wooden palace at the centre structures that could withstand the mostly temples scattered in and around
of a lively walled city, surrounded by a humid weather of the Brahmaputra the townbut I had no time left. Still, it
moat that even finds mention in Mughal Valley. According to some old accounts, was a very satisfactory experience for
accounts. they used a very ingenuous concoction me because I have always rued the lack
This building, somewhat reminiscent of sticky rice, eggs, certain types of fish, of imposing archaeological complexes
of Mesoamerican pyramids, is still in and other local ingredients as mortar to in Assam, and the poor state of the ones
good shape. It is possible to reach the hold the massive slabs together. that exist. The heritage of Sivasagar
top of the building by climbing a series It is also noteworthy that these seemed better maintained compared to
of stairs, something I promptly did. construction activities reached their any other heritage site in Assam and I
From the top, I could see remnants of peak during the final stages of the can only hope that the same is done in
pillars on the lower floors. I even got kingdom. At the time it might have other sites too.

the last remnant
what is now left of the original city of Garhgaon is a multi-storied palace, called Ka-
reng Ghar, built in 1752 by Rajeshwar Singha. Before that, there had been a wooden 45
palace at the centre of a lively walled city, surrounded by a moat.
gola ghar
easy access
reaching sivasagar: easily
accessible from Guwahati by bus
and train
nearest airPort: Jorhat
stay: Many hotels around the main
bus stand in sivasagar
entry tickets: rs 15 for indians
and rs 200 for international tourists
in most monuments
devidol
vishnudol

46
Ladung bridge over siang river

on the outskirts of tuting

47
arUnachaL Pradesh
text and photographs By sushobhan roy
4
with both
feet on the
ground
try the tuting-singha treK to be with nature and
enjoy the warm tribal hospitality

48
T
hE TREk from Tuting to Singha goes day-1
through the much revered Pemako zone Tuting to Yukong: We started the trek from Tuting
of the Tibetan form of Buddhism, and at around 8 am on a fine November morning, after
is filled with small hamlets inhabited by crossing the Ladung hanging (suspension) bridge in
lamas, set amidst serene vistas of natural the outskirts of this small town. The weather was a bit
beauty. This is a very rewarding trek, one cloudy and a light drizzle accompanied us for the first
that provides ample amount of opportunities to get up 30 minutes of the trek. After crossing the bridge, a se-
close and personal with the local tribes of this region, ries of stone-carved steps led us to Jedoh village. This
like the Adi, Mishmi, Memba and Khamba, and to get is the first village on the trail, which bifurcates behind
a better understanding of their source of livelihood the first house at the corner on its right.
and rituals that dominate their lives. Losar is the main The trail goes through paddy fields and dense for-
festival of followers of Tibetan Buddhism and it falls ests before opening up in an under construction road
on the traditional New Year Eve. It merges with the to Ngaming village. It took us about an hour and half
harvest festival to form the annual Losar festival. to reach Ngaming village where the brother-in-law

49
(facing page): paddy

fields on the way to Kuking
village; (above) on the way
to niering village
of my guide Akit lives, and we took a break for some

refreshment at his house. The under construction
road goes all the way to Yorthung, and we proceeded the traiL GOes
to the next village Kuking on the same path. Rows
of paddy crops on the both sides of the road accom- thrOuGh paddy
fieLds and dense
panied us with slowly rising mist covering the tall
trees dotting the horizon. The harvesting season
fOrests beFore
was in full swing and there was a lot of activity in
the fields involving the cutting and threshing of
paddy crops.
We reached Kuking at around 11:30 in the morning,
and then continued our journey to the next village,
opening up in a road
Niering, after crossing the Siyom river bed. The river
Niggong plays peek-a-boo behind the dense vegeta-
to ngaming village

50
(clockwise from top)

children at ngaming village;
lunch on the river bed of siang
on the way to tashigaon;
ngaming village
tion here, as the shorter trail through the jungle day-2

goes through a hanging bridge on that particular Yukong to Tashigaon: We woke up at around 5 in
river. By 3 in the afternoon we finally reached the morning, to the shrill call of the rooster. The
Yukong village, which was our destination for that day was not so bright and there was a dense mist
particular day. too. We soon had a breakfast of mithuns meat
The weather turned a bit nasty soon after we and rice, and more of the same was packed in
arrived, and a heavy drizzle forced us to take banana leaves for lunch on the way. We took the
shelter in one of the roadside shops for some late under construction road and reached Yorthung
lunch. At around 5:30 in the evening, we made our by 10:30 in the morning, after halting for a brief
way to Mr Pardes house, he being a friend of my period in one of the roadside dhabas. The owner,
guide, for dinner and shelter for the night. to my surprise, was busy shearing the skin of a

PemaKo zone
the trek from tuting to singha goes through the much revered Pemako zone of
the Tibetan form of Buddhism, and is filled with small hamlets inhabited by lamas, 51
set amidst serene vistas of natural beauty
(clockwise from top)

an open hearth kitchen in an
adi household; venison being
cooked in a roadside dhaba
on the way to yorthung; the
gompa at yorthung
deer killed in the jungle last night. I was curiously the river Arpong. We had our packed lunch on the
taking some photographs when the owner offered banks of that river, and then we crossed two back-
me a morsel from the leg as a gift. Akit, my guide, to-back hanging bridges that led to the beginning
wrapped the piece in a banana leaf to savour the of a steep incline of steps ending in long switch
meat in Tashigaon. The jungle trail from Yorthung backs before finally culminating at the village of
led us to Mankota, the next village on our radar. Tashigaon. When we arrived, we were a bit tired,
My guide told me to look up towards the sky on my and Akit started looking for the house of Kama
right and as soon as the mist lifted a bit, I caught Khampa, his friend in that village. The house was
the first glimpse of the village of Tashigaon. We situated on the top of the village just in front of the
started from Mankota by 12 in the afternoon and a village gompa (monastery). We rested for a while
precipitous decline in the trail led us to the bank of before gorging on the delicious dinner of venison

52
(Left-right): guide
akit medo on the way to
singha village; siyom river
in full flow; Singha village
and rice. The nights are very long here during win- We finally reached Singha at around 3 in the
ter as the sun sets down by 5 in the evening. afternoon and immediately the chill in the air was
palpable. It was much colder there and custom-
day-3 ary double layer clothing was inadequate, making
Tashigaon to Singha: We woke up to a bright me put on an extra two layers of clothing. An open
and sunny day after a long spell of rain that had hearth in the middle of the kitchen surrounded by
kept on pounding for the better part of the night. each and everyone in the family with logs of wood
After a quick breakfast and the packing of another supporting the utensil provides the dining environ-
travellers lunch, we began our journey to our final ment in a traditional Adi household. I was offered a
destination, Singha. A steady descent and a gradual dinner of bears meat which, although I found a bit
ascent through a series of concentric loops of chewy, nonetheless, it turned out to be an experi-
moss stained stones and mud took us to the village ence that would forever remain with me.
of Silipu. After that, a straight walk through the
canopy of wild bamboo groves led us to Shimoge day-4
village. Silipu and Shimoge are very small villages Singha to Tashigaon: We woke up to a magnificent
with fewer than 10 houses, and are mostly occu- dawn lit view of the snow covered peaks of the Pe-
pied by people of the Memba tribes. This is proper mashipi mountains, and the surreal atmosphere of
forest landeven on a clear day, with the sun shin- that moment fulfilled my purpose of reaching Sin-
ing bright, the light found it difficult to penetrate gha. We decided to break our return to Tuting in
the thick forests around us. It is so dim that while two sections, with the larger distance kept for the
walking, for a brief moment I might have even final day. We made our way back through the same
stepped on a green viper that I had mistaken for route to Tashigaon, and as soon as we knocked on
the moss and algae on a hard stone. Akit spotted it the doors of Kama Khampa, I was offered a sort of
at the nick of time. sausagewild boars intestine with keema stuffed

53
in it. Mr Kama had shot that boar the previous day then proceeded to Yorthung where we hit the
in the jungle, and as per the custom of the place he under construction road to Yukong. We reached
was arranging the meat pieces in small cane sticks Yukong by 11 in the morning and rested at a
to be distributed among the villagers in Tashigaon. roadside dhaba for some refreshments. We then
The ritual of distributing the meat among as many reached Niering village, which was nearby, and
people as possible is believed to reduce the gravity after an hours walk from there reached the bed of
of the sin of killing an innocent animal. We had Siyom river. We then proceeded to Kuking village.
a heavy dinner of that wild boars meat and rice The memories of the long walk to Ngaming village
along with apong (local brew) before we retired for at the fag end of the day make me cringe even now,
the day at around 8:30 in the evening. but on that day, the prospect of getting a cozy and
comfortable sleep in the inspection bungalow of
day-5 Tuting propped up my spirits. We reached Ngam-
Tashigaon to Tuting: We started at around 6:20 for ing by quarter to 4 in the afternoon and sat down
the long walk to Tuting. The steep descent from for a much needed break and refreshment. We
Tashigaon, coupled with wet mud on the steps satiated our stomach with boiled eggs and Maaza.
turned the now familiar trail into a bit of challenge The remaining stretch to Jedoh was covered in the
as my already worn out shoes were finding it next hour and then our flashlights lit the way to
difficult to get a grip. We reached Mankota and Tuting across the Ladung hanging bridge.
by flight:
0
Km From Delhi 2:15
hr Tezpur bhalukpong yukong
Path by train: 177 56.6 16 7 7-8 6-7 SINGHA
Finder From Delhi Guwahati km km hr Tuting hr hr Tashigaon hr
29hr

54
after two decades and more, the changes that this angami village has
undergone are visiBle, But so are its unchanging distinct characteristics
ritu Varuni
morungs with their

facades adorned with
carved horns of wood

55
I
t had been 24 years since I had last and bamboo frontages of the houses. Pele, our young local guide with the
visited Khonoma. It is a very well The thatch had become tin, and the unforgettable name, trekked up and
known village of the handsome walls, brick plastered with cement. The down the stone steps with us, giving us
Angami people, and is perhaps the village had definitely been spruced up a quick lowdown of the village. It was
most famous village in Nagaland, being and looked more prosperous, but still, as beautiful as I remembered, perhaps
the birth place and village of the Naga as anyone could see at a glance, it was even more so, as it looked better cared
leader, the late Angami Zapu Phizo of the same place. As we entered the vil- for now that it had developed into a
the Naga National Council. lage in my friend Vikishes SUV, driving sought-after tourist destination. There
I compared two photographs of the past a corner that took us to a set of were a lot of lovely new elements, like a
same village square. One was a yel- beautifully crafted stone steps lead- house with a rustic planked frontage, all
lowed, wizened print dating back to ing up to the doors of the old church, made of alder wood; patches of flower-
1993 while the other was one I had Khonoma was still recognisablein ing gardens tucked away around quaint
taken in October 2016. All that appeared parts. However, a lot had changed, some cottages; and a guest house with a
to have changed were the thatch roofs of it for the better. detached wooden sit-out tea room that
a raised circular platform

with square stone blocks
where people gather and sit in
the evenings

56
overlooked a volleyball court.

There must have been more changes,
which I could not immediately notice.
I had never actually stayed in the village
and had only spent a day there on my
previous two visits. It was now a tourist
spot and there were quite a few visitors
ambling around. Nowadays, there are
trekking, walking and sight-seeing
tours with vans, SUVs and village guides
for hire; all very well organised and
geared to attract adventurous spirits.
I was after something entirely differ-
enttraditional examples of bamboo
and cane basketry and the wood
carving craft of the region, to contrib-
ute to my craft documentation study
in Nagaland.
As we started up the stone steps
that led into the main settlement area
and overlooked the beautiful spread
of terraced fields below that define
Khonoma, Pele pointed out the first
treasure. It was a graying, aged piece of
wood, carved flat, that leaned against a
gateway to one side of the steps. Dated
to 1829, it still had vestiges of a mithun
head at one end and a human figure
with a headdress, but was the worse
for wear.
Next, we were ushered into a large
morung or mens dormitory, the place
where I would find what I needed.
It was a pleasant surprise to see the
resurrection of an amazing and old
institution that I believed had become
extinct in most parts of Nagaland. I was
happy, that here at least it was alive and
well kept and would help me in getting
my work done easier! The morung was
strewn with traditional Angami bamboo
and cane baskets of various shapes and
sizes, hanging from the ceiling or on and there was a circle of large, squared I requested a photograph and got two.
the wallsome finished, others still in stones to one side where people gath- Everyone looked at me curiously, but
progress. The khophi and khoshie, soft ered and sat in the evening. I sat on one smiled and talked and were rather sur-
cane Angami baskets of unparalleled end and photographed endlessly. We prised by my fluent Nagamese.
quality and craftsmanship were in evi- had got late coming to the village due to As we walked through the maze of
dence everywhere. The room even the bad road and the photo stops along houses with tin roofs, I searched for
had some rustic looking carved hunks the way, and now the eastern autumn the beautiful hand worked dry stone
of timber that were used as benches. light was dimming rapidly. Three little masonry for which Khonoma is famous.
Pele then told me that no one was girls turned shy backs to my camera. A At one point, a huge stone masonry wall
working at basketry that day, as it was lady passed us by, smiled and greeted loomed up on one side, with corner-
a Sunday and the light was really bad us. That is what you miss in the urban stones embedded just as I remembered
inside the morung. You cant have it all, I humanscapebasic civilisation. The lady from so long ago. The stone forts that
told myself. sat down by the side of the village path Pele kept showing us at regular inter-
Outside, carved horns of wood with her urn load of water strapped to vals were spread out all over the settle-
adorned the front faade of the morung her back in a traditional bamboo basket. ment at vantage points and had lovely

57
(facing page) a
view of khonoma;
a church sits pretty; (clock-
wise from above) slow and
simple life at khonoma; a
memorial to the first presi-
dent of nagaland federal
government; the tea house;
welcome gate of khonoma
decorative elements and large open by stone masonry walls and gorgeous tion. The huge mithun house horns
spaces in front. They had large carved geraniums pink and red sprouted up loomed large and black against the
wooden doors with spear and mithun- from every nook. Boys were flying kites backdrop of the flaming setting sun. I
head motifs in graphic depictions. My on a rooftop; smiling lovely red cheeked wanted to spend the night but we had
camera was busy that day. The forts had faces came out of the church: impres- to get back. Next time around I was
been built as defence against British sions and frames galore for some lovely coming here to stay.
attacks in an earlier time and age. They clicks. I bought a t-shirt that said I love
looked invulnerable. Nagaland (so true) as a gift and some ritu varuni is an architect and designer. She
An old man sat on a log enjoying the lovely traditional red hair earrings at is the founder and owner of ethaan design studio
sun, in a bright blue and red Angami the guest house shop. based in new delhi and himachal pradesh, which
shawl pitted against the background I really missed the bobbing red, white specialises in wood and bamboo design and hand-
of dull unprepossessing tin roofs of and black lines of the old Angami shawls skills. the use, research and development of bamboo
development. In a corner, a fat pig slept and mekhelas that were everywhere in as a material for craft and architecture has been the
in his sty and opened a lazy eye for the past. They were hardly visible focus of her work in Arunachal pradesh, Assam and
the camera. Flaming marigolds framed anymore and had become the excep- nagaland since 1991

58
5 biKing triP
text & photographs By ali mehdi
riding soLo with the bare

basics to tawang and bumLa

59
a yak, with tawang as its

backdrop, makes for an
imposing picture

60
i
t was a drizzly 5 am in Guwahati on
the June morning that I got onto my
faithful Bajaj Pulsar and rode down
the nearly empty highway towards
Tawang. It was a very pleasant ride
on theclean smooth road flanked by
lush green tea gardens.
It took me around 7 hours to reach
Bhalukpong, which is a check post
located at the boarder of Assam and
Arunachal Pradesh. At the check post I
came across an Army man, Nagesh Sin-
gh from Benaras in Uttar Pradesh (my
home state). He treated me to samosas
and cold drinks and we had a good chat
while waiting for my Inner Line Permit
for Tawang. After about 30 minutes I
got my permit and I continued my jour-
ney to Tawang on the beautiful
hilly road.
I rode through Tenga valley and
reached Bomdila by evening. The jour-
ney was on one of those roads which the smooth road near
offered a soothing scenic panaroma but Itanagar; the offroad stretch
to bumla
also bone rattling potholes. At Bomdila,
I stayed at Hotel Samurai, located in the
main market. The hotel is owned by a
lady who is blessed with a melodious
voiceI still miss the way she sang. And
she was very kind-hearted tooshe al-
lowed me to park my motorcycle at her
shop which was next to the hotel.
The next morning, I continued my
journey to Tawang. The road was in re-
ally bad shape, and to add to my misery,
came a heavy downpour around 1 pm,
when I reached Sela Pass. It wasnt
unexpected though, heavy rains area
usual occurrence in that part of the
country and at that time of the year.In
the lashing rain, the already messy road
turned into a rivulet. I was drenched
and chilled to the bone. I took shelter
at a cafeteria run by the Army, where
I warmed myself with hot noodles and to life, but it was unresponsive. The first I went to visit the Tawang monastery,
tea. After the rain subsided, I took time thing I did the next morning was hunt which is one of the biggest monaster-
out to admire the beautiful Sela Lake. I for a mobile phone repair shop.I found ies in Asia. It was a very holy feeling
also visited a war memorial on my way one, but theexpert there was unable to standing in front of that huge beautiful
to Tawang. fix the problem. It was disheartening piece of architecture and with monks
It was already evening when I rode alone in a far-flung sector, and my only everywhere, chanting mantras. From
into Tawang. I checked into a hotel situ- medium to connect with people had there, I went to the War Memorial of
ated in front of the parade ground and deserted me. Tawang, where I enjoyed a beautiful
got a decent room for Rs. 500. My din- I decided to make a move to Bumla. light and sound show. Then the rains
ner for that night was a typical Tibetan For that I needed one more permit and I came pounding. By the time I reached
meal of thukpa, momos and tea. It was went to the DC Office to get one. There my hotel, I was completely drenched in
then that I realised that my cell phone I came to know it took a day to get a the biting cold. I was sodrained out that
was not workingI tried to bring it back permit. With one whole day to spend, when I woke up the next day, I couldnt

jung waterfall
one of the most stunning waterfalls of arunachal Pradesh, Jung falls also
known as nuranang falls is 40 km form tawang town at an elevation of 61
about 6,000 ft above mean sea level
clockwise from above: a view

of tawang monastery, the
writer at the indo-china bor-
der in bumla, buddha statue
inside tawang monastery
remember when I had fallen asleep. Chinese territories was a fulfilling expe- spent some time with him, having tea,
The first thing I did the next morning rience, and it made all the trouble I took chitchatting about lifeand then I came
was to hurry to the DC Office to collect worthwhile.After ticking off one border to know that he was from Jaipur, Rajas-
my permit. Then, I headed off to Bumla, destination from my bucket list, I then than, which must have meant a major
which is located atthe Indo-China rode back to Tawang. On the way I saw transition from a relatively hot and dry
border. It was one of the worst roads I World War II bunkers and some beauti- plain to the cold and green hills. His
had travelled so far. I had my breakfast ful lakes. I also visited the Buddha Point introduction to the hills of Arunachal
on the way at an Army bunkeragain, in Tawang and thats how one more day came about when he wasworking as a
a typical Tibetan meal of momos and ended in my journey. helper in a truck service that brought
jalebi. I reached Bumla around noon. The next day, I left Tawang for in goods from the so-called mainland.
There, I met Army officers who gave me Bomdila. On the way I pulled up at a Once he got a better job at Jung, he
all the necessary information. Standing petrol pump in Jung, where I met an stayed put.Soon, it was time to say
at the spot that demarcates Indian and interesting fellow named Rajkumar. I goodbye to him and I was on my way

62
(clockwise from above)

young monks inside tawang
monastery; hong village; a
couple taking a stroll in Ziro
to Bomdila. I reached Bomdila after me and I asked them about it. They told it was about to close. The guys manning
nightfall, checked in the same hotel, ate me that this is the best way to pre- the centre figured out that my phone
the same food andmet the same ladybut serve fish for future consumption.Then had some software issues which could
listened to her sing some new lovely I continued my journey, and reached be solved only online, and that meant
Hindi songs from Bollywood movies of Itanagar, the state capital, by around a tough call because out there internet
the 80s. And all this while, I was without 5 pm. Except for some bad patches, speed was a crawl. This service center
my cell phone,disconnected from the the road to Itanagar was very good. I was owned by one Arjun Bhora, and
world I belong to. rented a room for a night in a hotel near I dont know why he decided to help
The next morning, I resumed my the Clock House,dumped my stuff and me outhe kept his shop open till 9.30
journey and stopped for breakfast headed straight to a Sony service center with all staff on duty, only to fix my
at Tenga. On the way I noticed that to fix my cell phone. Usually the market phone! Finally they did it, and rather
people were drying fish in front of their closed by 7 pm and it was already 6.30 than demanding extra charge for the
housesthis was something new for when I entered the service center and extra service, they did it free of charge

63
sharing their food, sharing experiences,

and sharing some of my life.
The following day was good, with no
rain, and so I went to Hong village in
Ziro valley. Its a short ride of about 30
minutesand there, I met the Aptanis.
Its a village of identical traditional bam-
boo houses surrounded by paddyfields.
The village people are humble, shy and
very reserved, but they have adopted
modern ways of life as wellthe village
had many schools for one. One small
reminder to tourists/travelers: always
make sure to ask permission of people
before clicking their pictures.
Even as I was wrapping up my short
break there, it started raining again. I
squeezed into one corner of a shop
to save myself from the rain. I asked
the lady in charge of the shop for tea,
but she said they dont sell tea. I think
her eldersister inside overheard our
apatani women in hong vil- conversation and she invited me inside
lage, fish being dried in front
her beautiful wooden house and
of houses in tenga village
offered me a cup of tea. We talked in
Hindi about her house, about culture,
about the life there. I was there till the
rains stopped.
On the way again, I halted at a shop
near Hong village. To my pleasant
surprise the girl manning the shop ad-
dressed me in fluent English. I came to
know that she was pursuing her MBA
from Bangalore and she was home for
holidays. I was really impressed to learn
the importance the people there give to
education, and the distance they were
willing to travel for a good education.
From there I rode back to Hapoli for an
overnight stay.
Next day, I bid adieu to Arunachal as I
rode on (about 10 hours journey includ-
ing a 2-hour ferry crossing) to Majuli
in Assam.
and also treated me to a cup of tea! me Rs. 500 for a room. It was neat and The time I spent in Arunachal
That was such a special moment, such a clean, but the place was swarming with changed me a lot. Those beautiful peo-
beautiful gesture, its something I wont mosquitoes. Fortunately, I was shielded ple, their rich culture, those amazing
ever forget. by a mosquito net. After I checked in, green rice fields and mesmerising land-
The next day, I had a wonderful I roamed aroundthe local market. It scapes, those crazy rainy days, they
time chatting with a few local motor- was a totally different experience for taught me humanity, how to be more
cyclistsRaju Pradhan, Tash, and the methe culture, language, people, food of what you actually are, how to be
Mayor of Itanagar, Kepa Babu. But once and all. A lady was selling frogs, another more human.
I hit the road to Ziro, the rain came silk worms and other items new to me.
down pouring making the already I was amazed!I found the people very Ali Mehdi is from Aligarh,
bad road a nightmare to drive on. I friendly and very generousseveral of Uttar Pradesh. An avid biker and travel-
reached Hapoli village around 5 pm and them offered me snacks and sweets. ler, he also runs a lodge in Mukteshwar,
I checked into a hotel, which charged I spent the rest of my day with them, UttarakhandWaywoodwind Lodge

64

65
MeghaLaya
6 By ilaKshee bhuyan nath
behind
the curtain
of rain
sohra seeps into your heart with
all its simplicity and charms you
with its quietude and cleanliness
all around
W
ITh A puckered forehead, a villager
is bent over a water pipe, his eyes in-
tent as he inspects the length of it. It
is a part of his job everyday to ensure
that water is released from the reser-
voir in the upper village at the appointed time for the
villages below. Strolling down empty village streets, I
was absorbing every detail of the freshness, the rain
washed look and the omniscient vibrant green. A
sparkling clean kettle shone from an unmanned tea
stall by the road. The rains had stopped as suddenly as
they had drummed down a little earlier forcing me to
take refuge in the village church of Laitkynsiew. I was
in Sohra (Cherrapunjee) in Meghalaya.
Sohra is a place that will play peek-a-boo as you
drive along the road ribboning down from Shillong for
almost 60 km. The hills will ensconce you, or suddenly
disappear behind a thick layered veil of clouds, teas-
ing you with just a portion of the road visible ahead.
But you know you are on safe grounds because the
journey is across a table top, and the edges are way off
the road. Snaking through the meadows in multiple
shades of green, the clouds welcomed us into their
folds and showered us with rains. In any case this was
what I had come forto chase the rains.
Beyond the rain washed window panes, blurred
nilopan dey
view of bangladesh from

ka khoh ramhah, a very landscape rushed by. I could make out a stream flow-
popular tourist spot ing or jumping off a rocky ledge in the meadows. A
settlement passed by, people moving around un-

66
90
hurriedly with colourful umbrellas, an integral part A string of laundry was staked up on a bamboo
of life in these parts. The vehicle passed by pretty pole, left to dry in the breeze. Even from the distance
Khasi homes with just one or two little windows on I could make out that they had been scrubbed clean. I
either side of the front door. No matter how humble wondered how they dry the clothes with rain pouring
the home was, there were no compromises on two in every now and then? And then I see my query flip
aspects. Cleanliness and curtains. Every window, aside as a few women attired in jainsen
whether it was of a roadside kiosk, a shack, or a home, walk down to a stream with yet another
had pretty curtains. And cleanliness? There was not pail of clothes.
a single wrapper within sight neither on the streets The owner of the Cherrapunjee Resort
nor in the compounds of peoples homes. Woven bas- we stayed at claimed that all of Sohra
kets hung from tree trunks or placed by the road once had an abundance of fruit trees,
was a common sight. And the roads forever had a
washed look.
sohra abounds
with water bod-
ies and meadows
and that this is probably where the name
came from, soh meaning fruit. And then
nilopan dey

67
came the British, who couldnt quite get it right (as is People here flourished then. But now they have
evident from the spate of places they renamed across left for distant places in search of livelihood she
the country) and referred to it as Churra. The Ben- claims. Tracks that connected the hills with the plains
gali babus who assisted the British in administration are overgrown with years of disuse. Strangely even the
further added punjo to indicate a cluster. The local fruit trees started disappearing and the locals were
name Sohra changed to Cherrapunjee. The slopes looking at a grim future.
of the south Khasi hills look out at the vast watery For all its lush greenery and rainfall, Sohra doesnt
Bangladesh. Much before the boundaries were drawn, yield itself to cultivation. The traditional practice
it made sense for the people of adjoining Bangladesh of jhum cultivation has robbed the land of its green
to turn this side rather than trudge a long way to their cover. The incessant rains have added to the woes
nearest city. Sohra was a hub of fruits markets, and by washing away the precious top soil. A dark rocky
the local people had trade relations with neighbouring surface juts out in many places from the greenery,
Bangladesh for fish, salt and other condiments. lending a heightened contrast to the verdant cover.
nilopan dey

68
90
nilopan dey ilakshee bhuyan nath
This region stands on a rich deposit of limestone. were going to step out of their homes and wait for the
And soon cement factories sprang up to extract men to return from the factory shift. Would they hand
and utilise this resource. It provided respite to the over their earnings to the women before walking in
locals in terms of employment and a stable liveli- to take a bath and sit down to a hot meal? Strangely,
hood. Although, there are many who continue to sell Richard Llewyllens How Green Was My Valley sur-
off the produce from their homestead to supplement faced. But that was South Wales and the coal mines.
the wages earned here or at distant land. I crossed This is Sohra and cement factory. And yet
a cement factory and on the other side was a small there is an echo. Probably my imagination
wooden bridge that led to a row of buildings in the of a Welsh countryside coincided with
distance. The sky was overcast, as though taking a what stretched before me.
respite before the next downpour. The undulating (Left-right)
kynrem falls;
woven waste baskets
Sohra continued to charm me with
landscape was as lush and fresh as only the rains can hung from tree trunks are its quietude and cleanliness all around.
make it. And for an instant, I wondered if the women a common sight in sohra The only sounds were that of the breeze

69
nilopan dey
nilopan dey ilakshee bhuyan nath
rustling the leaves, bird songs or the rain falling in a They have taken away our title the owner of the
steady pour. When the shower stopped for a while, I resort had said indignantly. The ridge on the other
sat on the bamboo bench and looked out at the ridge side under the clouds was Mawsynram, wearing the
opposite. Wisps of tinged low clouds hovered over crown of being the wettest place on earth. Did it
the valley. make Sohra any less beautiful? Did it rob it of its quiet
Water gets scarce in these parts in the winter charm? Did it make the numerous waterfalls plunging
months the old man tending to the water pipe had down the cliffs any less majestic?
said. I was curious about their life with incessant
rainfall. (clockwise from
top): the seven
sister falls; a villager
I made a promise to myself, I shall
return to Sohra once again. And again.
He added with a smile, but we get by. inspects a water pipe that For that is what it does to you. Sohra
That gave me another side of the coin to ponder will help carry water to seeps into your heart with all its
a village below; the mist
over, the one that lurks under the showcasing provides an aura of mys- simplicity and stays on as a warm
of Sohra. tery to the landscape thought.

56
70
text and photographs by Tokili Holo
Chakhwi
with snail
method: There are several
methods for cleaning the snail.
Here, we clean it by rubbing ingredients:
salt over the snail to eliminate Bamboo shoot-250 gm
any slimy residues. After that, snail-200 gm
put them in a strainer and Dry Fish- small 4 or 5 pieces
wash them under running wa- Green chillies- 100 gm
ter. This method must be re- salt- 3 tablespoons
peated until they are squeaky Mustard oil- 5 tablespoons
clean. Then cut off the tip part Dal-20 gm
of the shell and wash them un- rice powder-15 gm
der running water again. Now soda-3 tablespoons
they are ready to cook. Jackfruit seeds-100 gm
Blanch the snail in one
cup of water, bring to a boil
until the snail meat is almost
cooked, then strain the water
and keep aside. is prepared by soaking it for
Cut the bamboo shoot into two to three hours in water
thin round slices and the jack- and then strained, dried and
fruit seeds into two. grinded into a fine powder.
In a medium size cooking Cook the curry for some time
pot fill the water till the brim, and stir occasionally till the
snails being sold in a marketplace in agartala
add the bamboo shoot, salt consistency of the gravy gives
and the jackfruit seeds and a thickening texture.
start cooking till the bamboo As per your liking, you can
shoot is tender. Then grind the add more water to lighten the SnAil-kakamu
dry fiSh- berma
dry fish into a paste and add gravy. chilli- moso
it into the curry and cook in Finally after it is cooked, SAlT- som
low heat. Stir it occasionally so pour the mustard oil, give it a oil- thok
BAmBoo ShooT- muya
that the paste dissolves nicely good stir before serving. what its caLLed JAckfruiT SeedS- thaibong
with the gravy. Chakhwi is usually had with in kokborok beiseLie
Then, add the sliced green rice but with its thick gravy it rice- mai
chillies, snail, dal, the rice can be enjoyed like a soup with Shrimp- athuk
powder and soda. Rice powder bread too.

71
Awandru
method: This curry is pre-
pared by adding all the ingredi- ingredients:
ents together at one go. People Dry shrimp- 200 gm
who cook this curry usually say Bamboo shoot- 100 gm
it gives a different taste and salt- 2 tablespoons
aroma when all the ingredients chillie-10 gm
are cooked together. soda- 3 tablespoons
So, in a curry pot, add all the coriander leaves.
ingredients such as, green sliced
chillies, salt, bamboo shoot, dry
prawn and soda. Mix the items flame till its cooked nice and
well and add a little bit of water. tender. Finally, add the chopped
Next, boil the curry on a low coriander leaves and serve. bamboo shoot in the marketplace
Batima curry
method: Cut the Batima into
cubes and keep aside. First heat ingredients:
oil in a frying pan, add the onion One piece of round Batima
slices, red chillies, salt and tur- Five pieces of dry red chillies
meric and fry for a few minutes. salt
To this, add tomato pieces and two onions
keep stirring till it all becomes turmeric
glossy and forms a paste. Grind tomato
the dry fish and add it into the Small dry fish
curry. Pour one cup of water cooking oil
and stir well. Then add the
Batima cubes and mix well. Let
it cook under low flame so that
the Batima absorbs the gravy to dry in the sun. When dried,
nicely. Cook till the gravy is little the Batima is ready for cook-
dry and the Batima is soft and ing. Batima can also be added to
fluffy. Awandru and Chakhwi curries,
What is Batima? It is a popular or dipped in besan and fried.
local delicacy prepared by the Batima doesnt have a strong
indigenous people of Tripura. It aroma/taste and it is chewy like
is prepared from a tuber plant paneer and Nutrela soya chunks.
locally known as wol. First, the If its not cooked well, it gives an
skin of the wol is peeled and cut itching sensation to the throat
into pieces. It is then boiled with and mouth.
a pinch of soda. After it becomes Common name of Batima is
soft, the water is drained and elephant foot yam or whitespot
the wol is mashed up nicely. giant arum; scientific name is
The mashed wol is moulded Amorphophallus paeoniifolius; in
into round shapes and then left Hindi, it is called jimikand.

72
7 MizoraM
text and photographs By anasuya Prasad
photo: adam saprinsanga
The hearT-ShaPed rih dil laKe

blurS The PoliTiCal boundary beTween
india and MyanMar and how
73
the heart shaped lake

rih dil of myanmar, just
across the mizoram
border

74
h
adam saprinsanga
ere, india begins at the Indo- boundary between the two countries. ing Champhaiit has many unique and
Myanmar border. Here stand It runs south for 159 km before merg- interesting places, including several
the easternmost districts of ing with the Tuipui River. The Mizo national parks and the ASI protected
Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, people are believed to have migrated archaeological site Vangchhia. However,
Manipur and Mizoram from Myanmar in the middle of the 16th our interest lay in crossing the Indo-
sentinels to a nation, witness to a great century along the Tiau river. There is Myanmar border to see Rih Dil, a lake
history. It is from here that India a great deal of geographic contiguity that is held as sacred by the Mizos.
greets the sun each morning, as early as between the Chin State of Myanmar and We set out from the state capital
4.30 am. Champhai on the Indian side. In fact, it Aizawl with the express intent of expe-
The Indo-Myanmar border is 1,624 is often said that these are politically riencing the oneness of cultures cutting
km long, of which about 500 km is in separate but culturally united lands. across political barriers. Fortunately,
Champhai district of Mizoram. River My husband and I had the opportu- clear weather had been predicted for
Tiau, which arises in Khuangphah nity to stay in Mizoram for nearly three the next three days and we hired a
village of Champhai, forms a natural months. We were interested in visit- Sumothe preferred mode of transport

75
(facing page) the calm

atmosphere at rih dil
(cLockwise from above): immigra-
tion check post at Zokhawthar
village, mizoram; security person-
nel at the myanmar check post;
the approach road to rih dil; the
bridge that connects india and
myanmar
in these parts. We were joined by David, enjoyable ride. Aizawl city hadnt yet
his wife and their really sweet three-
bread boxes woken up when we left, and the roads
year-old daughter, Lawkimi. We were with Cakes and were all but empty. We made it through
very lucky that Hruatia, a student from the city and out in less than an hour.
the Mizoram University, also accompa- other snaCks Hitting the highway, we found that
nied us. He is from Champhai, and knew are kept at eaCh we could stop at any of the tea stalls
the roads well except for the one time in the villages lining the highway and
he bungled and we almost lost our way! table in high- be assured of a decent break. Bread
Plus he was great company. way tea stalls. boxes with cakes and other snacks are
The drive to Champhai is a very long kept at each table. Boiled eggs are also
one, taking up to nine hours to cover boiled eggs are placed at each table in baskets. There
the 190 km. It can be a rough ride, but
if one starts out early on a clear day, as
also plaCed at is a charming degree of honesty and
trust among the hill people. One can
we did, it can turn out to be quite an eaCh table help oneself to as many baskets as one

76
(clockwise from above):

a buddhist temple in
rhikhawdar, myanmar; the writer
crossing the bridge to myanmar; a
petty shop, on the indian side, selling
lemon juice, small fish, and other for-
est produce; driver frances enjoying
the boat ride on rih dil
wants. Nobody keeps a tab. When the when seen from up close. As we got closer to the district
time for the payment comes, they ask There is a lot of road construction headquarters, we noticed a change in
you how many pieces you had and bill going on in this sector, accompanied the terrain. The hills are less steep here,
you accordingly. After two tea breaks, by a lot of quarrying. Both men and and there are many flat lands and ter-
we continued the journey, enchanted women take up employment in such raced areas. This is the Champhai valley.
by the thick forests and the different activities. It is common to see women A visit to Champhai would be worth it
types of flowering trees. There was a mixing cement, breaking rocks into even to just drive across the valley and
tree with white flowers in bloom which stones and packing them into plastic enjoy the soothing scenes. Interspersed
captivated us. It gave the appearance boras. Mizo women are very hardwork- with small hills, the valley is picture
of snow having fallen in spots among ing and cheerful by temperament. postcard pretty.
the green trees. We could not help but We saw about ten women sitting in a Rice fields dot the landscape. Cham-
stop for a closer view. They turned out circle and breaking stones in the hot phai is the rice bowl of Mizoram and
to be small white flowers on bushes sunbut they were quite cheerful, smil- produces up to 20,000 quintals of rice
with large, dark green leavespretty ing and chatting. in a year. Although this does not meet

rice bowl
chamPhai is the only area of Mizoram which is favourable for rice cultivation and
produces up to 20,000 quintals of rice in a year. although this does not meet the total 77
demand of the staterice is brought from assam through silchar
the tiring journey. The lodge looked

very charming from the outside with
many azaleas and orchids, but was quite
uncomfortable to stay in. The food they
served was not very appetizing either.
However, we managed to get some
rest and set out the next morning for
the border.
The journey from Champhai to
Zokhawtharthe last village on this side
of the borderis a pleasant 22 km drive.
Officials at the check posts on both
sides of the border were very friendly.
The Indian side is manned by the
Assam Rifles, not the BSF as on the
western border of the country. Unlike
at Wagahthe border check post be-
tween India and Pakistan, where
security is very tight and there is a
display of fruits at
seling market, enroute slightly strained atmospherehere the
to champhai feeling is very different.
Historically and culturally too, Mizos
are deeply connected to this part of
Myanmar. Our friends told us that
they have many relatives on the other
side of the border. The local people in
Myanmar follow the Mizo language too.
There is a free movement regime here
that allows tribes to cross the border
without restriction.
The formalities are very simple. The
registration number of the vehicle and
the number of passengers are noted. Af-
ter handing in an Indian IDboth Voter
ID and Adhaar cards are accepteda
pass is issued for a fee of Rs 10. This
pass is valid for a day and one needs to
get back home by five in the evening. I
thought this was such a simple proce-
check post at
rhikhawdar dureand all facilitated by mutual trust.
How wonderful and simple life could be
if countries and people could trust each
other so implicitly.
the total demand of the staterice is There have been talks to strengthen
brought from Assam through Silchar
offiCials at the security on both sides to ensure that
Champhai is the only area of Mizoram CheCk posts on it does not become a haven for drug
which is favourable for rice cultivation. smuggling. There are reported cases of
We also saw many areas where pine- both sides of petty thefts and smuggling across the
apple and grape were being cultivated. the border were border. Mostly cement and fertilizer are
We guessed that efforts were also being exported to Myanmar, but apparently
made to introduce coffee into the area, very friendly. more informal trade takes place than
as we noticed a signboard pointing to formalities to the formal registered trade. Also, people
a coffee nursery. Hopefully it will be on both sides do use the forested area
successful, and we may get to drink get a pass are to cut across as there is not much secu-
Mizoram grown coffee in the future.
We reached the tourist lodge late
simple and the rity here. After completing the formali-
ties at the check posts, we had the great
in the afternoon and checked in after fee is just rs 10 thrill of running across the bridge con-

78
cepts of death and dying that came with

the arrival of the Church.
It was probably a coincidence that
we passed by a village where there had
been a death. The entire village had
gathered at the home of the departed,
sitting silently in respect to the depart-
ed soul. Several customs of the ancient
Mizo society are still practiced. A flag
had also been put up, signaling that
there had been a death in the village.
Two or three young men would then
spend a few nights in the house of
the departed person, as per custom,
to stay with the family and help them
in their time of loss. The community
feeling and concern for each other in
the village is very strong among
the Mizos, having lived and grown
together as tribes under very difficult
circumstances.
In recent years, Lake Rih has become
youngsters having
a splash in rih dil
very popular among newlywed Mizos.
Couples from Champhai make it a point
to make the trip to Rih Dil. They believe
it will bring them good luck. This is
necting the two countries. What a joy. three months. After three months, the easily understandable. With its per-
Within minutes, we were in a friendly soul again departs for Rih Dil. There it fect heart shape, silence and soothing
foreign land. plucks a mythical flower which helps breeze, it is a veritable paradise.
It was most amusing to see that the it to forget all its worldly ties. Then it Schoolchildren are also taken for pic-
first thing that youngsters do on touch- takes a sip from a mythical spring. It nics here. Swimming is allowed but we
ing Myanmar is make a dash for the forgets is previous life completely and had not come prepared. I lay down on
liquor shops. Liquor had been banned in is free to go to the next world. Here the grass at the lake edge, chewing on a
Mizoram until recently. So youngsters again it is believed, that those who have blade of grass, looking up at the leaves
find it a great opportunity to stock up earned merit by doing good deeds proof the silver oak swaying in the breeze;
on Indian-made foreign liquor. Chuck- ceed to a paradise while those who have sounds of the children splashing about
ling to ourselves, we allowed the young- not are left behind in a village similar to happily and running in the breeze. If
sters this indulgence and proceeded to the ones on earth, where the same toil this is not paradise, what is?
drive up to the lake. and struggle continue. With a silent prayer that Rih retains
The first sight of Rih is spectacular. This revealed to us how deeply the its beauty, we headed back to our side
The aura of peace around the area is Mizos had contemplated the after-life of the border and return to Champhai,
unbelievable. There is a very fascinat- and problems of letting go. It was amaz- replenished by the visit to Rih. Deeply
ing belief among the Mizos connected ing to see, according to the beliefs they satisfied that we had now seen the east-
with the lake. The soul is believed to held, how the soul deals with separation ernmost edge of the country, we felt a
first reach Rih Dil after leaving the body and finally frees itself of all its attach- great reverence for the beauty of earth.
and spend a few lonely days along with ments. Entwined in this view are also How much longer will this earth be able
other souls here. Sad to leave the family, the concepts of rewarding good deeds to manage the ravages imposed on her
the soul often visits his/her home. The and thought. The young Mizo student by us? Hopefully, Rih Dil will retain its
family sets a separate plate of food at accompanying us narrated this story to beauty for centuries to come, given the
the table and invites the soul to partake us. But it felt a bit unclear how to fit in love and respect with which it is held on
of the food. This ritual is carried on for these ancestral concepts with the con- both sides of the border.
by flight:
0
Km From Delhi
4.30 Lengpui Airport
hr 1 hr
Path by train: Champhai
9 22 zokhawthar
Finder From Delhi Silchar Aizawl
28 12.15 180 hr km
hr hr km
Guwahati

79
charanjiv kalha is a
serious traveller with a constipation, because that can be as
without any training. here are my picks:
cheery personality. when much of a problem. i also carry some
not looking at the milky PLasters/ gauze/ surgicaL taPe: motion sickness/nausea medication as
way in some remote place, carry any medicated plaster (band-aid) most of my trip includes travelling on
of various sizes and shapes. these will mountains on some pretty hair-raising
he helps run business winding roads.
help with minor cuts. Plus, as you will
intelligence projects for a be walking a lot, carry blister plasters eye wash: its always useful to have
major corporate house too. Blister plasters are a good idea for some just in case something gets into
preventive care too--put some on if you your eye and that needs to be cleaned
have new shoes or feel the shoe rubbing up.
THe
against skin. Gauze is the master of rubber gLoves: this is one thing i
all tools. i usually keep individually dont see in many first aid boxes, but is
wrapped sterile squares so that i dont a must if you are treating injuries.
need to cut them on site. Gauze and
smaLL scissors/tweezers: Both
Magic Box
tape on a clean injury will help you till
you can get a professional to attend these instruments are simple, yet
to your wound. tapes are better than important, for first aid. From trimming a
plaster and will hold the bandage better. gauze or bandage to size, or picking out
splinters or getting out bits of stone/dirt
crePe bandage: For anything greater of an injury, there are many situations in
than minor scrapes, this is very useful. which they come in handy. ensure you
it can be used to treat sprains and either buy airline approved scissors or
strains, to help correct fractures and
a first-aid kit should serve as a compression bandage to
check in your first aid box while flying
Be simple and support already bandaged injuries. variety Pack: apart from the above-
importantly make mentioned list there are some other
antisePtic wiPes / antibacteriaL items that i carry though you might not
up of stuff that can creams: these days you get packages put them as classic first aid items:
with antiseptic wipes in any chemist store.
Be used without any antiseptic wipes are perfect for cleaning a dentaL fLoss: apart from being
training wound before applying a dressing, and will used as floss, it can be used as suture
help to prevent the wound from getting material, or as thread to sew on loose
infected. its also a good idea to carry an- buttons. Dont forget the sewing needle
tibacterial creams like neosporin for any though.
cuts and scrapes you get. this will help sPace bLanket: Perfect emergency
heal them faster as well as preventing a tool if you get stuck outdoors. i carry
possible infection. this in my day pack all the time.
steri-striPs/butterfLy striPs: swiss knife: i dont have to list its
I have found these to be excellent in usefulness, though i would advise not
times when you need to hold a cut going overboard with the really heavy
together and there wasnt anyone to su- duty ones.
ture the wound. a tipuse the steri-strip fire steeL: along with some tinder, it
with Benzoin Tincture; it helps keep the is always useful to get the fire started.
strip on longer. insect rePeLLent: Why wait to get
burn dressing: Bonfire injuries, bitten and then use first aid, prevention
usually minor, are common. Do carry is always better!
A
FirSt-aid kit is an essential medicines/injections. a few times we either a burn gel/cream, or burn dress- water Purification tabLets: With
piece of equipment on any have had major cuts, but thankfully had ing packs that dissipate the heat and water purification gadgets becoming
backpacking adventure, but our faithful first-aid box. reduce pain. popular, this has become optional,
most travellers arent sure exactly what Now to open up the magic box and Pain medication: Paracetamol and but in case you dont have purification
they need to take with them. also, i look inside. First, the box (or bag) itself ibuprofen are the common ones that device do carry these.
dont think thats at the top of the mind should be sturdy and, if possible, water you should carry for pain/fever relief.
for most travellers when they start proof so that the insides remain safe. condoms: apart from their obvious
packing. This list below has been refined over the antihistamine/benadryL: the use, they have a variety of uses as water
a word of caution: i am not a medical years and as any experienced traveller chances of getting bitten by bugs and proofing, ice packs, water carriers etc.
expert and its advisable to have a word will tell you, things can and do occasion- insects, or allergies cropping up during sanitary Pads: For the female lot of
with your family doctor on what is ally go wrong on any trip, and taking travels is pretty high. carrying an the group, and also handy as a highly
essential for you. a lot of what you carry a well-stocked kit with you is always antihistamine cream or tablet is always absorbent wound dressing for bleeding
will depend on your personal needs and advised. useful to help control the itching and wounds.
the time and place you are trekking too. When i began trekking, i bought swelling.
seasons and high altitude needs vary and carried a commercially available stomach medication: anti-diarrheal as i said in the beginning, this is a
so, do look at those variances and add emergency first aid kit. There is nothing Loperamide medications (such as generic list; you should make additions
to the list below. wrong with these packs and i would rec- immodium) are good to stop stomach to this based on where you are
in all the time i have been trekking, ommend them to any trekker. however, issues for a short while, till you can rest travelling to. For instance, do add
i have mostly encountered only super- over the years, I have refined my kit to and recuperate. remember, they do not Diamox for high altitude treks and add
ficial injuries like minor cuts, blisters, reflect what i most use out on the trail cure diarrhea; the best way to treat that more sun screen/ dehydration packs for
sun burns etc., with the exception of my and what i know makes it better for me is to let everything pass through and areas where sun is going to be strong.
last trek to tso Moriri, where we faced and hopefully you too. drink plenty of fluids (add rehydration so go ahead and make sure you pack
high-altitude sickness. thankfully, we a kit should be simple and impor- solutions to the kit) to replenish lost your first aid box with these essentials,
had a doctor with us with the proper tantly make up of stuff that can be used fluids. Do also carry something for and i hope you dont have to use it.

80

81
MUsic fest
text By ambiKa Vishwanath 8
photographs By hoshner rePorter
a visit to the Ziro festival of music and the valley it is

named after are Both extraordinary experiences that
everyone should have
skrat from chennai performing

at the event

82
t
he PLatform at Guwahati station had turned you for that special feeling that is Ziro. A visit to both
into the unlikely venue of an impromptu the Ziro Festival of Music and the valley itself are
gig. There were countless guitar cases experiences to be had at an individual level, and are
scattered around, as well as large boxes not something one can imagine until they are well and
that presumably held amplifiers and other truly immersed in it.
equipment of that kind. A couple of guys Growing up, I had heard about the region from my
were practicing pitch and scale, while a woman grandparents, who were posted in Arunachal in the
sang softly to a small audience. There was palpable late 60s. From my own travels around the state in
excitement in the air, and plenty of chatter about 2015, it feels like nothing much has changed. This was
the upcoming music festival that everyone on that my second time at the Ziro festival of Music and I was
platform was headed to. Many were talking about excited. A music festival that is as far and remote as
the music and the venue, the destination and the Ziro ensures that the only people who go are the ones
journey itself. Veterans gave out well-meaning advice who really want to be therethis is not a page 3 party
on what to expect, but nothing can really prepare to be seen at. The journey is as much a part of the

83
festival as the music or the food, and getting on a train

with half the musicians, some festival goers, organis-
ers and others means that the festivities start early!
After a long day of travel into Guwahati, Assam, meet-
ing friends and getting to the station in crazy Guwa-
hati traffic, we all tumbled into the trainto Naharla-
gun in Arunachalready to catch some sleep before
the 4-hour car ride up into the valley.
The drive from Naharlagun station, is a beauti-
ful oneas you leave behind the outskirts of Itanagar
and city life, the views change dramatically as you
enter the lower ranges of the Eastern Himalayas. The
vegetation is thicker and trees seem a bit larger than
elsewhere, something I had experienced while driving
around central Arunachal the previous year.
Five hours, two pit stops and one landslide later, we
descended into the valley, one of the most beautiful
places in this country. (Landslides are common that
time of the year and sitting at a roadside dhaba, eat-
ing Maggie noodles and boiled eggs with new friends,
waiting for the road to be cleared or your Sumo to be
fixed all becomes part of the adventure.) Ziro valley
is a veritable bowl of natures bestgleaming fields of
green and gold surrounded by a dark ring of thick for-
ests and imposing mountains in the distance. All this
topped off with brilliant blue skies and tiny villages
that dot the landscape.
The verdant beauty of the Ziro valley, which doesnt
seem to have changed much over the years, is best
experienced while lying on the grass and listening
to the lilting strains of a guitar serenading you from
the day stage, named Danyii or Sun in Apatani. The
day stage, set on the edge of gently sloping hill, sees
more singer-songwriters than other kinds of musi-
cians, offering gentle music that can be enjoyed
while basking in the sun with a chilled glass of brew
and a plate of assorted Assamese or Naga dishes, two
of my favourite cuisines. Everything was served on
the electrifying
eco-friendly bamboo plates, and people cleaned up
atmosphere of
the festival after themselves, careful not to take for granted the
pristine beauty around them. As the music ebbed
and flowed it was not unusual to see men, women
and children of all ages kick off their shoes and do
a music festivaL a little jig. I was looking forward to reliving these
memories again and making new ones over the next
that is as far and few days, and I dreamt of these moments as we passed
through many of the villages to get to Siiro Village,
remOte as ZirO en- where we stayed.

We arrived at the home of Punyo Chada, our won-
sures that the only derful host for the duration of the festival. Hoshner
and I had stayed there before and couldnt wait to get
people who go are settled into his home, built in the traditional Apatani
style with touches of modern comforts, and sur-
the ones who real-

rounded by gardens and trees. As with the traditional
homes there, the kitchen is a separate space arranged
ly want to be there
around a fire and stove. Life revolves in and around
the kitchen, which usually has some form of dried

84
Proof of why the Ziro music

festival is gaining popularity
as one of the most happening
outdoor music festivals in the
country

85

86

Paddy fields around the festival
venue; Punyo and kaka chada,
the host in siiro village; apatani
women in hong village
meat or fish roasting above the stove, and after flavourful, the dish is a must try in this region.
we arrived, we congregated there to shake off the Well rested, we walked to the festival venue,
weariness with lal chai and biscuits. The resident through the rice fields, where men and women
cat had already made herself comfortable next to were packing up from the days work and head-
the iron stove. Kaka, Punyos warm and sweet wife ing home. Here, they also grow millet along the
and the best cook this side of the Brahmaputra, outside of the rice fields and rear fish in the water
sportingly heard us out as we fell over each other channels that fall in-between. We spotted a couple
requesting things to eat. Bamboo chicken, a locally of older Apatani women with tattoos on their
made dish where the chicken and egg is cooked in lined faces, faded over time. Famous for the facial
the bamboo stem and then served was a favourite tattoos, the traditions and customs of the Apatani
and Punyo promised to make it for us. Light and tribe, which are slowly adapting to the modern

87

group of friends from the fes-
tival; from common delicacies
to unusual silkworm grub being
served at the festival
world, are also a big draw for those coming to Ziro, of the private camp sites that are set up outside
to understand and even document a unique tribe the main venue and others from the main town of
different from the others in the region. The festival Hapoli, which has a few hotels. There was an air of
organises walks around the many small villages in excitement around and we could hear the music
the valley, with local guides for festival goers to which had already begun. The sky was the dark
better understand the Apatani way of life. Stay- inky blue that followed the fieriness of a sunset
ing with a local family is probably the best way to and all around lights came on creating a magical
understand the Apatani culture and their customs, space in between. In the distance, over a low knoll
heritage and history. we could see the festival camp site,
As we walked into the venue, we were joined by set up for those wanting a complete experience.
other revellers and happy people, some coming out The first band had already got the crowd going

88
stilt houses in hong village
the custOms Of the

on the night stage, aptly named Pilo, which is
Apatani for moon. We grabbed a rice beer, lo-
cally brewed, from one of the many food stalls that
apatani tribe, which had been set up along the rim of the festival area
and headed into the music. The stalls sold local
are sLOwLy adapt- delicacies from Arunachal and neighbouring states
and I made a mental note of all the new stalls and
inG tO the mOdern everything that I wanted to sample.
In that stunning location surrounded by people
wOrLd, are also a who had come together to partake in good music,
food and conversation, there was a special kind of
big draw For those bonhomie around, born of this unique shared
experience. In that moment, it was easy to forget
coming to Ziro the world outside and feel like everything there
was just as it should be.
by flight:
0
Km From Delhi
2:15
hr Naharlagun
Path by train: 7 12 Itanagar 3.30 zIRO
Finder From Delhi Guwahati hr km hr
29hr

56
90
IndonesIa text & PhotograPhs by sushobhan roy
A study of multiculturAl
influence is incomplete without
A visit to this islAnd nAtion
july-august 2017
march-april 2016 Discover inDias northeast
57
91
tanah Lot temple
Discover inDias northeast march-april 2017

july-august 2016
56
92
90
i
NdONESiA, thE worlds largest island country rind, chilly, garlic and accompanied by egg (sunny
with over 17,000 islands, is also the most popu- side up). The assortment of different spices in the
lous Muslim majority country in the world. Even dish carried a familiar taste from south India, yet
so, the island of Bali, a major tourist destina- there was a lot of variety in the flavours. Then, as I
tion, is culturally and traditionally a Hindu major- finished my meal, an out of the blue shower of rain
ity island. Balinese is the principal language, and began, bringing down the temperature.
Balinese Hinduism is practiced across most of the I then went to Ubud, where I was staying in one
island. The island has plenty to offer in the form of of the homestays. I had a spacious bedroom with
magnificent waterfalls, volcanic mountains, deli- an attached washroom, close in size to my 2 BHK
cious food, aromatic plantations and last but not flat in Kolkatait was nothing short of luxury. I
the least, white beaches and cobalt blue waters. spent the rest of the day exploring the markets,
I landed in Bali on a hot and sultry afternoon and later booking a hike to Mount Batur
in the month of September. The weather was not for the next night. Finally, I finished
much to rave about, but nonetheless, I found sol- my day with a sumptuous thali from an
ace in gorging on a plate of Nasi Goreng, a popular (above): goa gajah
temple; (facing
page): entrance of the sacred
Indian restaurant right in the middle of
local dish consisting of fried rice spiced with tama- monkey forest sanctuary the busy downtown market.

57
93
The next day began on a rousing noteI hired After spending time there, I went to the world
a cab and went to drench myself in the roaring heritage site Goa Gajah, also known as Elephant
Tegenungan Falls. As we reached, I found a series Cave. The faade of the cave was dotted with
of steps leading to the falls and a huge envelope figures of demons and other menacing forms.
of mist surrounding the place. As it turned out, The cave houses an elephant statue similar to the
many locals and foreigners flock to have a morning Hindu God Ganesha, wearing a sarong, and I could
bath in the pool below the falls. A few shops were see people making offerings of fruits to the idol.
lined up opposite them, along the steps, offering All devotees and visitors to the temples are re-
refreshments and food. The next stop was a temple quired to be draped in a sarong while inside the
dedicated to Pura Pusa and Pura Desa, referring temple complex.
to the Gods Brahma and Vishnu respectively. The Pura Teerta Empul temple was the last of the
temple complex was huge, and I spent a good temples on my list for the day. It is a Balinese water
amount of time going through the various artifacts temple, located on the upper course of Pakerisan
on displaypercussion instruments occupy the River, with a peritartan, or a bathing structure
pride of place. During prayer ceremonies, the gods consisting of 33 fountain springs for visitors.
are offered fruits, and incense sticks are lit. Teerta Empul, which means holy spring, refers to

56
94
90
the holy waters of the temple which are used for by the Asian Palm Civet.
religious ceremonies and mind-soul cleansing. The One of my last destinations for the day was
holy spring is closely related to Usana Bali, where a short hike through the terraced rice fields of
in the past, as per the legend, the army of betara Tegalalang. Tall coconut and areca palm nut trees
Indra was poisoned by king Maya Denaya. Then, border the fields that one can hike through; there
the God Indra created Teerta Empul as an antidote are narrow trails specifically made for travellers to
to the poison. roam and see paddy cultivation from close quarters.
Soon it was lunch time and I found myself Finally, I decided to end the day with a visit to the
enjoying a sumptuous Indonesian thali consisting Sacred Monkey forest sanctuary, which is a natural
of malay satay, tofu, beans, rice, soup, tamarind reserve and contains a Hindu temple complex, in
chutney and peanut crackers. Sitting in the open Ubud. The main temple of the complex is dedicated
restaurant, with vast expanses of paddy crops in to Lord Shiva, and is known as Pura Dalem Agung
front of me, I found the view to be quite an antith- Padangtegal. The other temples in the complex
esis to the consumerist ambience of food outlets are Pura Beji, or Beji Temple, and Pura Prajapati, or
that we find prevalent in cities these days. Prajapati Temple. As per the census of 2011, approxi-
Indonesia is famous for a particular variety of mately 605 macaques live in the sanctu-
coffee known as Kopi Luwak, which is also the ary. The monkeys have lost their fear
most expensive coffee of all the varieties available
there. This coffee is made from partly digested
(bottom): a beach in
gilli trawangan; (fac-
ing Page): terraced rice fields
of humans, and though feeding them is
not allowed, I could see visitors offering
coffee cherries that have been eaten and defecated at tegalalang bananas and other local fruits to them.

57
95
That night, I slept after an early dinner, as the I took a public motor boat ride to Gilli Islands. It
trek to Mount Batur was to begin in the wee hours took about 2 hours to reach Gilli Trawangan, one
of the morning. of the three islands of the Gilli Islands belt. The
The trek was a bit arduous in the beginning, rampant commercialization of the islands owing
since the loose volcanic rocks that make up the to the influx of foreign tourists was clearly vis-
ground make it difficult to get a firm footing. iblerows and rows of high-end bars, pubs and
After walking for close to 3 hours in darkness, we restaurants. Late night parties and booze are the
reached the top for a grand view of sunrise; but order of the day as much as horse-driven carriages
cloudy weather played spoilsport, and limited and bicycles. After a day on the island, I returned
photography to close shots of individuals and the to Canguu for the final leg of my Bali sojourn. I
surroundings on Mount Batur. As we began to strolled for a good amount of time in the evening
descend, the weather cleared a bit and we could on the nearby Berawa beachthe black sand beach,
see the huge Batur lake on the other side of Mount which is a popular surfing zone.
Batur. This volcanic mountain is marked by a Next day, I started early in the morning for
collapsed top called a caldera, and being an active Tanah Lot temple on foot from my place of stay. I
volcano, it gave me goose bumps to stand on the crossed the Berawa beach and went through lonely
edge of the crater and see the vapours rising paths flanked by paddy crops before getting into
from below. the mid section of the long main road to Tanah Lot.
I returned to my homestay, and after a quick Tanah Lot means land in the sea in Balinesethe
breakfast, I took a cab to Padangbai from where temple sits on a large offshore rock. The low tides

56
96
90
in the evening give visitors a chance to cross

the narrow channel across the sea to reach the
devotees bathing in
the holy spring of tirta empul
motorcycle taxito the airport for my
flight to Yogyakarta.
temple. The main deity of the temple is Dewa temple; a devotee worshipping The journey, to the mystical island of
the idol of ganesha at mount
Baruna, the Sea God. After spending about two batur; tegenungan falls; horse
beautiful temples and rich traditions,
hours enjoying the enriching ambience of the carriage is the main mode of has given me an enriching insight into
temple complex, which included a 15-minute transport in gilli trawangan; a the lives of the Balinese people, whose
sumptuous indonesian thali;
performance by a group of musicians, I returned varieties of coffee on offer at the hospitality never made me feel like a
to my homestay, and then I took an ojek ride coffee plantation visitor at any point of time.

57

98
most affordabLe Private Jet

At $1.96 million, the Vision Jet was explicitly
designed for private ownership and is the
most affordable private jet on the market
about half the price of its nearest competi-
tor. the aircraft, which has been a decade in
the making, was recently granted Faa certi-
fication, and now Cirrus is ramping up both
production and deliveries. the vision Jet is
the first private jet with a single engine, and
it can be flown by a solo pilot, both of which
help to keep production and operating costs
low. The plane, which has room for up to five
adults and two children, can cruise at 345
mph, which will take passengers from new
York to Miami in about 3 hours. it comes
with a technological marvelit is equipped
with cirrus unique safety system, which
deploys a parachute for the entire aircraft,
reported Forbes.com.
tnt wedding gifts

a wedding gift was no joke to Us transpor-
tation security administration(tsa) agents
checking bags in a screening room at Denver
Sa luxe train
international airport. an agent watching an
X-ray monitor spotted wax and fuses inside
a checked bag at the airport. tsa said the
bride and grooms names both start with a
t, so their wedding souvenirs were labeled
M UzA LAB has exquisitely re-imagined the slow travel experience through
their interior design of South Americas first luxury sleeper train, Belmond
Andean Explorer in Peru, which launched on the rails early May 2017. According
tnt. tsa issued a statement on instagram
that there was a 20-minute evacuation while
bomb specialists checked the bag. they de-
termined that while the wax and fuses were
to traveldailynews.com, working closely with Belmond to complement the brands
on bottles that said tnt, inside was just bath
heritage for properties that sit at one with nature, the studio has harmoniously salts. the bottles were wedding favours for
woven cultural connections with inspirations from the idyllic surroundings, guests, reported huffingtonpost.in.
creating a detailed backdrop for the breathtaking spectacle of the Peruvian Andes.
Carrying up to 48 passengers, Belmond Andean Explorer has been designed with all raw deaL
the sumptuous amenities guests expect from a luxury travel experience. Next time you complain about the rubbish
meal on a plane, think about this poor pas-
senger who ended up with a bunch of raw
vegetables. the traveller, who was flying
with aegean airlines, ordered the vegetar-
ian Oriental meal in advance. But when
tree house chaLets Largest cruise shiP the cabin crew on the Greek airline started
Snow Bear Chalets, the worlds first slope- the construction of symphony of the seas, to hand out hot meals to passengers, the
side, ski-in/ski-out treehouse chalets, the largest cruise ship ever, hit a major passenger was disappointed to discover
opened to guests this June. milestone as the ship took to the water for the his entire meal consisted of a handful of
according to traveldaily.com, lo- first time on 9 June. According to USA Today uncooked vegetableswith a knife and fork,
cated in northwestern Montana the 230,000-ton royal caribbean vessel was reported News.com.au.
at Whitefish Mountain Resort, floated out from a dry dock at the giant stX
Snow Bear Chalets offers the shipbuilding facility in st. nazaire, France,
ultimate accommodations to where it has been under construction for LaPtoP ban Lifted
enjoy hiking, mountain biking more than a year. the float out marks the end the United states has lifted the in-cabin ban
and outdoor adventure for of exterior work on the ship. It now will un- on laptops on Us-bound flights from Dubai
this summer season, as well as dergo months of finishing work to its interior. and istanbul, emirates and turkish airlines
world class alpine skiing for the scheduled to debut in april 2018, symphony said. according to reuters, the announce-
upcoming 2017-2018 winter sea- will be more than 3,000 tons bigger than the ment came three days after laptop ban
son, in a storybook-inspired treehouse current size leader in the cruise world, royal was lifted on etihad airways flights to the
chalet. The brand new luxury treehouses, snow bear chalets caribbeans 226,963-ton harmony of the seas. United states from abu Dhabi international
perched 25 feet above the forest floor, have some of the highlights of the symphony are: airport. an emirates spokesperson said the
astounding views into the mountains of nearby The Ultimate Abyss, the tallest slide at sea; ban was lifted after new security measures
Glacier national Park and of the surrounding ski Classic carnival games at the new Boardwalk announced by the Us were implemented.
resort. Just five feet from the slope, Snow Bear Arcade; Two FlowRider surf simulators; two the ban on carrying large electronic items
Chalets offers a true ski-in/ski-out experience for rock-climbing walls, each 43 feet high; zip line, including laptops, iPads and Kindlesis still
those who would prefer to spend their time on the nine decks in the air and 82 feet across; full- in place for flights from egypt, Morocco,
slopes, rather than just getting to them. sized basketball court; ice-skating rink etc. Jordan, saudi arabia, Kuwait and Qatar.

www.arunachaltourism.com
tawang monastery
, Ziro
Paddy field
theravada buddhist vihara, tengapani, Lohit
dite dime, east siang

sangti valley
located in part of the eastern himalayan ranges, and at the top of northeastern india, arunachal pradesh is the most pristine
and picturesque tourist destination of india. there are 5 major himalayan rivers and innumerable perennial smaller rivers
crisscrossing its vast 83,743 sq. km area. it has 9 wildlife sanctuaries and 2 national parks teeming with rare and endangered
species of flora and fauna. The state has 26 major tribes including sub-tribes with their own unique set of traditions and customs.
from eco tourism, cultural tourism, religious/spiritual tourism, heritage tourism, to adventure tourism, arunachal
pradesh has it all and more. come and experience its rich diversity.

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voLume no. 02 | issue no.

10 birding in thin air:

try out Some diStinct

thangu valley and tso lhamu plateau An evocAtive heritAge

the region compriSing the

eVery steP you taKe:

timeout Lake of Love baLi

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Wait out the Rain

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

epic myth through his songs.

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

Thangu Valley and TSo lhaMu PlaTeau are

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

sanglapu peak on the way from

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

On the way back

(clockwise): green tailed

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

(clockwise) blue fronted redstart, rosy

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

After spending some time by the high altitude

after trekkinG fOr

Crested Serpent eagle, Chestnut Headed tesia,

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

(clockwise from above): gu-

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

inside the Lord marjing

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

the shrine dedicated to Lord

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

the shrine, there is also a creek. Moving on from the

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

youngsters, in traditional cos-

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

manipur sangai festival, which is held in novemBer every year, offers a

a polo match in traditional format during sangai festival

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

Ponies at a breeding farm

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

in the words of polo player jetholia thongBam

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

the cachar club

the glorious link Between silchar and modern polo

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

in manipur, the Game

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

their community. of the past.

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast

transcript of the write-up,

origin of english polo

Discover inDias northeast july-august 2017

july-august 2017 Discover inDias northeast