Glossary for

Photographers,
Models, Makeup Artists
and Stylists

by Barry M. Robinson
August 2017

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 The following is a short glossary of words and phrases which are common in the fashion, make-up,
styling, modelling and photography professions. Many of these words and phrases are misunderstood
by those new to the industry. The definitions given are the most common and I've added links to clarify
the definition when possible and I've given sources where appropriate. Note: Words or phrases in
parentheses () immediately following the term being defined are given to put the word or phrase in
context since many words have multiple meanings depending upon the context in which the word or
phrase is used.

agency: An agency, in general, is an organization that represents an individual or a business in a

relationship with a third party. There are several types of agencies which creative people may
deal with:
Advertising agency (example: JWT) create and place advertising in the media for their clients
Model agency (example: IMG Models) represents models (usually fashion and commercial).
For more about model agencies see What is an Agency?
Talent agency (example: William Morris Endeavor Entertainment) represents actors and
performers. Talent agencies often specialize and represent talent for specific roles such
as a principle actor, background performers or voiceover talent. Some talent agencies
represent other types of artists such as directors, writers, musicians and choreographers.
Artist agency (example: Jed Root) represents photographers, stylists and makeup artists.
Stock agency (example: Getty Images) represents photographers for stock photography.

all rights: An ambiguous term sometimes used in licensing an image. "All rights", like the term
buyout, should be replaced with specific licensing terms. See all rights at the PLUS Glossary

appearance release (privacy/publicity rights): An agreement, signed by someone who may appear on
screen in a documentary or video (or his/her agent, parent or guardian), which gives others the
right to use the person's image in ways specified in the agreement. In general it concerns the
privacy, publicity and personality rights. Usually for non-compensated performers.

aspect ratio: The ratio the width of the image to the height usually given as width:height. An aspect
ratio of 1:1 is a square, 16:9 is a rectangle 16 units wide by 9 units high (HDTV).

background performer: A performer in a motion picture, television production, video or commercial

(sometimes theatrical stage production), who is part of a crowd scene or appears in a minor,
non-speaking role. The background performer, sometimes called an extra, provides ambiance.
Background performers are not required to have any special skill beyond that of the average
person. See Screen Actors Guild - Background Actors. Background work is available through
background agencies which specialize in representing people for this type of work. No
experience, training or professional photos are required.

beauty makeup: Makeup designed to enhance the facial features of the model or actor.

bid: A competitive process where several vendors provide the potential customer with firm prices for a
specified service or product. Often used for long term contracts or large projects. The bidding
process is usually subject to restrictions such as deadlines for submission of the bid and the
qualification of vendors.

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bokeh: The shapes (blur) in the out-of-focus areas in an image caused by the aperture and design of the
lens. Often used to refer to the aesthetic quality of the blur. The shape of the bokeh can be
modified by a custom aperture placed in front of the lens. A lens can be modified by a
technician: this was done for the film "Killing Them Softly" which used a modified anamorphic
lens, Panavision HS50 lens, to give an elongated bokeh. Synthetic bokeh can be added to an
image during post production.

buy out: A poorly defined but often used phrase to describe the purchase of rights in a photograph.
Means different things to different people. The PLUS coalition recommends that buy out, all
rights and similar terms NOT be used. Instead of the phrase "buy out", substitute specific
licensing terms.

call sheet: A sheet used in the production of a motion picture, video or sometimes a photo shoot or
fashion show. The call sheet gives basic information concerning the production crew and
actors/models and the location for a particular day. Contains contact information, crew,
principal actors, location information such as parking, and the schedule for that day.

casting: The process of selecting actors or models for a particular dramatic production or photo shoot.

CGI: Computer Generated Imagery. Used in both film and still photography to create three-
dimensional props, landscapes and characters. In some cases, CGI has replaced extensive
makeup in film. The camera has been replaced with CGI generated images in some types of
product photography, most notably automobile photography.

character makeup: A makeup design which helps to define a character. For example: a cowboy, a
homeless person, a soldier.

clearance: Clearance is the process of obtaining the right to use intellectual property such as a
trademark, or personality rights such as the likeness of a person in advertising, a publication,
video or film. It involves recognizing the intellectual property or personality rights, finding the
owner of those rights and negotiating for the use of those rights. See Getty Rights and
Clearance.

commercial (modelling): Modelling in which the model plays the role of a regular person such as a
banker, housewife, doctor or patient. See the reference to lifestyle photography. Sometimes a
commercial model may get a job in a television commercial but in many cases these jobs are
given to actors with union membership.

commercial (photography): A use of photography by a business, for example in an advertisement or

public relations. See Categories of Photography Use: Commercial, Editorial, and Retail

comp (graphic design): Short for comprehensive, a finished layout of a print ad or a publication for
presentation to the client. Often used by photographers and designers for guidance in creating
the finished artwork.

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comp (modelling): Comp card, short for composite. A group of photographs along with the model's or
actor's stats (name, height, agency etc.) printed on card stock. The comp card is carried by the
model or actor to auditions or go sees and left behind with the client. Comps for models are
usually updated with new photographs at least once a year.

contact sheet: A contact sheet was originally a print from roll or sheet film negatives made by printing
the negatives in direct contact the photo paper. The resulting images were the same size as the
negatives. A digital contact sheet is a group of images, each one reduced in size, arranged on a
single page. Digital contacts may be web-based, a PDF format or a physical print.

copyright: Copyright is the exclusive right granted by law to do certain things with a work such as
adapting, publishing, performing or displaying a work in public. The copyright holder, with a
few exceptions, can prevent others from doing things with the work which the copyright holder
alone is permitted to do. Copyright is granted to the author of an original work at the time the
work is created in a fixed form. A work can be a written, a dramatic, a sculptural, a visual, or an
audio work. Primarily economic in scope, the rights granted under copyright law vary by
country and are usually part of federal law. Copyright is not absolute, there are exceptions such
as fair dealing and fair use. For more on this complex topic see: World Intellectual Property
Organization (WIPO) Copyright U.S. Copyright Office Canadian Intellectual Property Office -
Copyrights Related rights

copywriting: To write copy for the purpose of marketing a business, product or service, including copy
written for advertising and public relations. A copywriter may be freelance or work for an
advertising agency or public relations firm. Famous copywriters include David Ogilvy, Leo
Burnett and Hugh Hefner

crowdsourcing: Using a large group of non-experts to create content or perform a task which
traditionally would have been done by experts. In terms of photography, crowdsourcing takes
advantage of the availability of low-cost, high quality automated digital cameras which
provides the end user a huge supply of images to choose from. The high speed Internet provides
the means to ship these images quickly and cheaply to the end user. See The Rise of
Crowdsourcing by Jeff Howe, Wired Magazine, Issue 14.06 June 2006.

day rate (make-up): The usual method for compensating professional makeup artists is with a day rate
while working on a photo shoot, film or video. If the artist finishes early he/she is still paid the
full rate. Overtime is paid when the shoot runs over the allocated time, usually 8 to 10 hours for
a full day. A "per face" or "per look" rate is generally considered unprofessional when working
on a photo shoot, film or video.

day rate (photography): The day rate in photography was originally paid to editorial photographers
working on a specific article or essay by the publication. The rate was paid whether or not the
images were published and represented a minimum payment. Billable expenses were a separate
item. Over time the term was mistakenly applied to other types of photography, most notably
assignment photography. Since January 1, 1978 when the U.S. copyright law for photography
changed, granting freelance U.S. photographers copyright in their works by default when
working for a client, the trend in assignment photography has been toward a creative fee rather

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 than a time based fee (day rate). Most professional photographer organizations view the day
rate as used in assignment photography as outmoded. The "ASMP Professional Business
Practices in Photography", published in 1979, provided the following concerning "day rate":
"The day rate is normally a guarantee against usage, to be paid on a space rate (per page or
per cover) in editorial/journalistic photography."

deal memo: An employment contract for a planned film or video, usually for an independent
production. May be written informally. See Deal Memos at Film Underground.

derivative work: A derivative work is a work which is based on one or more existing works. The
following quote is from a Canadian court case regarding what factors make a work derivative,
in this case a derivative work which infringes upon the original work: " . . . it is not necessary
that the reproduction of a work be a slavish copy, as infringement is defined as including any
colourable imitation. While no one can be prevented from using a photograph to reproduce the
posture or traits of a person, when the original aspects of a work are reproduced there is
infringement." from Ateliers Tango Argentin Inc. et al. v.Festival d'Espagne et d'Amerique
Latine Inc. et al. (1997) 84 C.P.R. (3d) p. 59

double truck: Content which appears on two facing pages in a print publication (advertising or
editorial) or in a portfolio.

editorial (modelling): Modelling for a magazine or other publication. See also Editorial fashion
models. Editorial modelling usually does not pay very well, even for top models See What
Vogue Actually Pays Its Models.

editorial (photography): A use of photography in a publication in an article or essay, not in an

advertisement. See Categories of Photography Use: Commercial, Editorial, and Retail and What
is editorial photography?.

embargo: The period of time, usually specified in the contract or license, that the photographer agrees
not to license an image to another client. An embargo is common in the editorial photography
market where the commissioning party requires exclusive use of the image.

estimate: A written or oral estimate of the approximate costs involved in a specific project. Modifiers
such as "rough" or "ballpark" often are added to give an indication of how accurate the estimate
is intended to be.

fair dealing: Limitations to the exclusive rights of the copyright owner in Canada and several other
countries. Similar to fair use. See Fair Dealing (Canada)

fair use: Limitations to the exclusive rights of the copyright owner in the U.S. Fair use allows others to
use a copyright work in certain ways without first seeking the permission of the copyright
owner. See Fair Use

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fashion: A model who models fashions for the designer, manufacturer or retailer. May appear in an
advertisement, a magazine or in a fashion show. Fashion models , both male and female, must
fit specific height/weight requirements.

fashion makeup: Makeup designed to enhance the clothing (fashion) worn by a model. Examples can
be seen in fashion editorials.

fashion stylist: A stylist who selects, coordinates and arranges clothing in a fashion shoot.

fit model: A model of a specific size used by a clothing designer to check how the finished design
looks on a real person. A fit (sometimes fitting) model must maintain their weight and body
proportions within very strict limits. Some fit models make a very good living; see The
Finances of a Model in New York City -- Revealed! at the Huffington Post.

food stylist: A person who prepares, decorates and arranges food for a shoot. May be trained as a food
writer, as a home economist or in the culinary arts.

gaffer tape: A tape made from cotton duck and coated with a pressure sensitive adhesive which can be
safely removed from a surface leaving little or no residue. Comes in a variety of widths and
colours. Used in the motion picture industry, in theatrical productions, by stylists and by still
photographers for a variety of uses including securing lights and power cords, labelling items
and even to cover logos on clothing when clearance for the logo is not available. The name
comes from the motion picture industry gaffer; the chief electrician in charge of lighting.

go see: An informal introduction of new talent to established photographers, designers, producers and
other clients. The model is told to "go see" the potential client. The go see is usually set up by
the model's agency or booker.

high contrast: An image in which there are few or no shades of grey between black and white.

kit fee: A kit fee is a payment made to a makeup artist working on a film or video to compensate the
artist for the wear and tear on their tools. The kit fee is in addition to the artist's day rate. Other
workers use their own tools when working on a film and are compensated for wear-and-tear
with the box rental fee. A kit fee is just another term for a box rental and this fee is set out in the
contract with the makeup artist. A makeup kit fee only applies to certain items in the makeup
artist's kit which, in turn, is relevant only in the context of motion picture makeup department
management and financing. Makeup kit fees are not customary outside of film or video work.

letter of agreement: A letter confirming an upcoming assignment including details of the assignment,
rights and pricing. When signed by both the artist and the client the Letter of Agreement
becomes a binding contract. Sometimes known as a Letter of Confirmation. Often uses informal
language.

letter of intent: A letter outlining a proposal which is not a contract. A letter of intent may, however, be
given weight in a court since it establishes in writing some basic facts concerning a proposal.

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lifestyle: A photograph of people (actors or models) in a domestic or business setting doing everyday
activities such as banking, cooking, driving to work, eating in a restaurant.

look book: A collection of images (photographs or sometimes drawings) showing a line of clothing, the
style of a celebrity or a model, or the work of a photographer. The look book can be a physical
book, a digital file or it can be in the form of an online blog. It differs from a portfolio in that it
is a visual reference for a single line, season or theme. See What are Look Books?, Stick Thin |
A Look Book Makeover and How to Create a Look Book

low contrast: An image with many shades of grey between white and black. In most low-contrast
images, small areas of pure white and solid black are included to key the grey shades.

microstock: Stock images which are licensed for very low payments, usually less than $10 for a
royalty-free license. Most microstock is distributed through websites. Licensing fees for
microstock are often tied to the size and resolution of the image.

model release/agreement: An agreement, signed by the model (or his/her agent, parent or guardian),
which gives others the right to use the model's image in ways specified in the agreement. In
general it concerns the privacy, publicity and personality rights of the model. For more about
this see Property and Model Releases (photographers) and All About Model Releases (models)

mood board: A collection of images put together by a designer, stylist or makeup artist which serves as
a visual reference for a fashion show or for a photo shoot. Usually a collage on a single board.
Why Mood Boards Matter

moral rights: The rights of the author in an original work including the right of attribution and the
right of integrity in the work. Usually legislated under federal law. Canada has more extensive
moral rights than the U.S. In the U.S. only certain works of visual art are protected: 106A.
Rights of certain authors to attribution and integrity

off figure stylist: A stylist who selects, coordinates and arranges clothing as a still life (clothing not
being worn by a model) for a photo or video shoot.

out-of-kit makeup: Makeup created as needed directly from the artist's makeup kit as opposed to pre-
made prosthetics.

portfolio: A collection of images representing the work of a model, photographer or artist. May also
refer to the physical case in which the images are kept; a portfolio case.

principal: A principal actor is an actor playing one of the main characters in a production. Can be
either a speaking or non-speaking role.

privacy rights: The right to be left alone. Legislation regarding privacy rights is usually at the
state/provincial level. Varies considerably from place to place. May be legislated or common
law. In general, privacy rights come into play when a photograph is published or otherwise
made public.

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pro bono: From pro bono publico (Latin) meaning "for the public good." Advertising agencies and
creatives use this term for work done free-of-charge for charities and other non-profit
organizations. See Should You Work for Free? For the Right Cause, Sure at Advertising Age.

proof: A photographic print made from the original negative or digital file without cropping or other
manipulation and only minimal colour correction. Intended as a reference or guide to creating
the final image or to let the client select an image. A proof can be a physical print or an online
proof. A soft proof is a proof on a monitor that simulates how the paper print will look. In the
fine arts, a proof is an impression or print that is used by the artist during the printmaking
process and is not included in the final numbered edition of the work. See Artist's Proof

prop stylist: A stylist who selects, prepares, coordinates and arranges props or products for a photo
shoot. In some cases a prop stylist may build or otherwise create a prop or a set, for example, by
distressing a wood backdrop.

prosthetic makeup: Makeup using prosthetic appliances (often just called appliances) which are
created in advance and attached to the actor or model with specialized adhesives. Prosthetics
may be made from gelatin, silicone, latex or other material. This type of makeup can range from
a simple generic prosthetic wound to a multi-piece prosthetic covering the head and a major
portion of the body. Examples of recent prosthetic work in film include Mystique from X-Men
and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. Both of these films also used extensive CGI to
enhance the prosthetics.

public domain: An original work in which (1) copyright has expired or, in some cases, has not been
renewed (2) copyright has never existed (the work is of a category that cannot be copyrighted)
(3) the work has been made public domain by the copyright owner. Public domain is often
misunderstood to mean work that is widely available or common.

publicity rights : The economic rights associated with a person's name, likeness, voice or other
identifying trait. May be legislated, as in California and New York state, or common law. These
rights vary considerably from place to place and are usually at the state/provincial level. In
general, these rights come into play when the photograph is published in a commercial context.

pull letter: A letter provided to the wardrobe or fashion stylist by the publication commissioning an
editorial shoot. This letter is used by the stylist to borrow ("pull") clothing from designers and
retailers for the shoot. The letter gives details of the shoot and the publication usually accepts
financial responsibility for the return of the clothing in perfect condition. A pull letter must be
signed by someone in authority at the publication such as an editor. See Pull Letter from the
Hair, makeup, and styling career guide by Crystal A. Wright and How to spot a fake pull letter
from Lucire.

quote: Often called a sales quote. Similar to an estimate, but more formal and often considered to be
more accurate than an estimate with respect to the final price. A "firm" quote is a quote in which
the vendor guarantees the price, usually with conditions such as acceptance by a specific date.

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raw: A digital image created by a digital camera in a proprietary format which contains all of the
information from the camera's images sensor without any correction or modification. Usually
requires specialized software to process before the image can be viewed or printed. Comparable
to a negative in the analog world.

retail photography: A use of photography privately by an individual. Most portrait and wedding
photography falls into this category. See Categories of Photography Use: Commercial,
Editorial, and Retail

rights-managed: A type of license in which the work is licensed on a per use basis. This is the
traditional way stock images have been licensed. Rights managed images usually command
higher licensing fees.

royalty-free: A type of license in which the licensee pays only a one-time fee for the use of the image
irrespective of the amount that image is used. There may be restrictions in terms of media
(licensing only for print or web) or size of reproduction but multiple uses are generally allowed.

spec: Speculative work (spec) is work done for a specific project and client which the client can either
reject (most often without payment of any cancellation fees) or accept. Spec always puts the
artist at risk. The artist has already created the work which gives the client additional leverage
in setting or modifying the price. Unlike stock, spec work which is rejected by the client may be
product or campaign specific so that it cannot be sold as stock. In addition there may be
trademark or other issues that make the rejected art worthless to the artist. See NO!SPEC

special effects makeup: Includes makeup that ages the actor, creates a monster such as a werewolf or
zombie, or simulates wounds such as cuts and burns. Special effects makeup for film and
theatre may include blood pumps for wounds which bleed on camera or squibs for simulating
gunshot wounds.

stock photography: Images which are shot by the photographer on his or her own initiative then
licensed to end users. The copyright to the image is retained by the photographer and the rights
to an image may be sold multiple times. Many stock images are generic (generalized situations,
no trademarks or recognizable products featured) to increase the income through multiple sales
over a long time frame.

test: The mutual exchange of services between a photographer and model to produce images for their
respective portfolios. A test may also include stylists, art directors makeup artists and others
involved in photography. A test may be either paid or unpaid. In the world of Internet
modelling TFP (Time For Prints) and TFCD (Time For CD) are often used (incorrectly) instead
of "test." Some people use Trade instead of Time.

thumbnail: Small images used as a reference or an index to larger images. May also refer to small
drawings used to rough out a concept.

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transformative work: The following definition of a transformative work is from a U.S. court case
"altering the original with new expression, meaning, or message. The more transformative the
new work, the less will be the significance of other factors, like commercialism, that may weigh
against a finding of fair use." from CAMPBELL, AKA SKYYWALKER, ET AL. V. ACUFF-
ROSE MUSIC, INC - 510 U.S. 569 See also Color This Area of the Law Gray by Daniel Grant,
Wall Street Journal

usage license (copyright): An agreement, by the copyright owner, which gives an individual or
business specific rights to use an image or other work in ways that are usually reserved for the
copyright owner. In some cases, it may be advantageous (from a sales tax standpoint) to call a
"usage license" a "copyright license", see the Board of Equalization in California for specifics.
For more about usage licenses see Licensing Guide (photographers) and All About Model
Usage Licenses (models) and the Picture Licensing Universal System

usage license (privacy/publicity rights): Modelling contracts often include a usage license which
gives the client the right to make use of that model's likeness (see publicity rights and privacy
rights). The model's agency usually provides a voucher, signed by the client at the shoot, which
will contain details of the usage granted. In most cases, the model will get a sitting fee in
addition to the fee for usage. Russell Christoff, a model from California, posed for a Taster's
Choice coffee label in 1986. He was paid a sitting fee of $250 for the shoot and was to have
been paid $2000 for the use of his image on the Canadian coffee label with other uses to be
negotiated. Nestle used Mr. Christoff's likeness but did not pay him for usage or negotiate
further uses. Mr. Christoff sued Nestle and was awarded $15.6 million.. Note: Do not confuse
this entry with a usage license (copyright license) given to the model by the copyright owner of
an image so that the image may be used by the model.

voucher: A voucher is issued to the model by his/her agency and is signed by the client at the shoot. It
contains details of the assignment including hours worked, the sitting fee and usage of the
model's likeness. The voucher system was started by the Hartford Agency and later developed
by the Ford Model Agency back in the late 1940s (source: Model, the ugly business of beautiful
women by Michael Gross). This system is used by all large agencies. See this Sample Voucher
at newmodels.com

wardrobe stylist: A stylist who selects, coordinates and arranges clothing during a shoot. A fashion
stylist is considered to be either a subcategory of this specialty or a separate specialty.

warranty: A warranty is a guarantee by one party that certain facts or conditions are true and that they
will protect or compensate the other party for any costs or claims that arise should those facts or
conditions not be true. An express warranty is one that is specifically stated, either written or
oral. An implied warranty is one which is determined by the conditions surrounding the sale of
the goods or services.

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[a] work made for hire: This phrase has a specific meaning in U.S. law. A work made for hire is one
created by an employee in the scope of his/her employment OR one made under one or more of
nine categories specified in U.S. copyright law AND with a written agreement specifying that it
is work made for hire. Under a work made for hire agreement, the author of the work is the one
who specifically ordered the work.

zed card: A type of comp (composite) card which is folded twice into a Z shape (when viewed from
above). Used by both actors and models. This type of comp card usually fits in a standard
business envelope. The zed card is more common in some markets than in others.

Copyright 2017 Barry M. Robinson, Toronto, Ontario, Canada

This work is licensed under a

Creative Commons Attribution-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License
This publication last updated: Thursday, August 31, 2017

This work may be freely distributed in print or electronic versions according to the terms of the above license.
This work must be distributed intact and not modified in any way.

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