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(Received January 16, 1990)
ABSTRACT: The crosslinking structures and the physical properties of the fabrics treated with wet-cure
or poly-set process were studied. The lengths of crosslinks in the fabric treated with the wet-cure process
were longer than those with pad-dry-cure and poly-set processes. With the same crosslinking structure, the
fabric treated with the two-step wet-cure process showed better crease recovery under both dry and wet
conditions than the fabric treated with pad-dry-cure or two-step poly-set process. This effect was attri-
buted to the improved protection of hydrogen bonds and the enhanced swelling achieved by the first
method. The dry and wet crease recoveries and the degree of swelling of the wet-cured fabric were depend
ent on the moisture content of the fabric during the treatment.
at 80 for 5 min, cured at 150 for 3 min, and then with DMEU solutions of various@ concentrations, con-
(a) One-step wet-cure: Fabric samples were padded catalyst concentration, and wet pick-up was about 85
The catalysts used were (*a), AICl3.6Hz0; (*b), H2S04; (*c), Zn(CH3C00)2-2H20; and (*d), Mg(CH3COO)2-4H2O.
454 SEN-I GAKKAISHI( ) (104)
), predried at 80C to various moisture contents, and reformed as the second treatment proceeded.In a
and sealed in polyethylene bags at 25 for 24 h. The previous studyil>, we found that the crosslinks in
samples were neutralized with a Na2CO3 solution and DMEU-treated fabrics were decomposed and re-
then washed in cold running tap water for 30 min. formed as the curing conditions were changed.
(b) Two-step wet-cure: The one-step wet-cured For comparison between the crosslinking struc-
samples were further padded with a solution of Zn tures of the fabrics treated by wet-cure (two-step),
(N03)2.6H20 (10 % of DMEU used in the first step, poly-set (two-step) and pad-dry-cure processes, the
wet pick-up was 85 % ), predried at 80 for 5 min, crosslinking length (n) of the fabrics treated with
cured at 150 for 3 min, and then soaped and dried. each process is plotted against nitrogen content in
2.2.3 Poly-set Fig. 1 (a). The figure shows that the crosslinking
(a) One-step poly-set: Fabric samples were padded length of the fabric treated with the two-stepwet-cure
with DMEU solutions of various concentrations, con- process is longer than that by the two-step poly-set
taining Zn (CH3000)2.2H20 or Mg (CH3000)2.4H20 process, and n obtained with the pad-dry-cure pro-
as catalyst (25 % of DMEU, wet pick-up was about cess is the shortest for the same nitrogen content.The
85 % ), predried at 80 for 5min, cured at 150 for figure also shows that the crosslinking length is also
3 min, washed, and dried. affected by the catalyst used. This difference in the
(b) Two-step wet-cure: The one-step poly-set sam- crosslinking length may be attributed to the fact that
ples were further treated with the same method as de-
sults clearly show that the crosslinking structures (N03)2.2H20, () Mg (CH3C00)2-4H20; and (0) pad-
the condensation of crosslinking reagents is easier to creases obviously with the increase in moisture con-
occur in the wet-cure process than in poly-set and tent. The Fm, however, is almost constant. These re-
pad-dry-cure processes since the wet-curing is carried sults suggest that the decrease in n in the wet-cure
out at a higher moisture content, at a stronger acidity process was caused mostly by decomposition of N-
of catalyst, and for a longer period of treating time in CH2OCH2-N linkage as the second step proceeded.
the one-step treatment . Fig. 1 (b) shows the effect of moisture content in the
Table 2 shows the effect of moisture content in the wet-cure process on the crosslinking length. There is
wet-cure process on the crosslinking structures. It is no definite relation between the crosslinking length
found that the Fe is largely increased , and the Fm is and the moisture content, and the crosslinking lengths
obviously decreased with the increase in moisture for different moisture contents are in the order 10
content in the one-step wet-cure treatment. As the > 70 % > 20 %. The results may be due to the fact
second step proceeds , the Fe decreases and the Fc in- that the effect of the stronger acidity in the treatment
456 SEN-I GAKKAISHI( ) (106)
at a lower moisture content on n is larger than the the relationship between the DCRA and the r 1f a
effect of the larger swelling property at a higher of the treated fabrics for various processes. Equation
moisture content by improving the condensation of 1 holds for all the processes with Kpl varying with
crosslinking reagents. Fig. I (b) also shows that the the process. The Ko1 for one-step or two-step wet-
longer the crosslinking lengths of one-step treated cure process is larger than that for one-step or two-
fabrics, the longer thecrosslinking lengths after the step poly-set process, respectively, and the Ko1 for
second step treatment. the two-step poly-set process is even smaller than
3.2 The Relationship between the Physical that for the pad-dry-cure process. The larger K01for
Properties and Crosslinking Structures wet-cure process may be caused by the higher degree
3.2.1 The dry crease recovery angle for the two-step of condensation of reagents due to the higher mois-
treatment ture content in the first step of the treatment result-
According to the previous papers3'4), the relation- ing in the protection of the hydrogen bonds. The
ship between the dry crease recovery angle (DCRA) smaller K01 for the poly-set process may be due to
and the crosslinking structure () of the fab- the fact that the condensation of reagents was not dis-
rics treated by the pad-dry-cure process can be writ- tributed uniformly to protect the hydrogen bonds be-
ten as; cause the condensation proceeded in a dry state. The
DCRA=Ko1r(1) fact that the hydrogen bonds affect the DCRAhas
In this equation, n is the crosslinking length, r is the been reported in our previous paper.3> Fig. 2 also
number of crosslinks and a is the degree of the cross- shows that the Ko1 for the two-step process is smaller
linking completion. The constants Koo and Ko1 are than that for the one-step process no matter what
affected by the hydrogen bond which is a function of type of wet-cure or poly-set process is adopted.The
the distribution of crosslinking reagents. Fig. 2 shows decrease in K01may be attributed to the fact that the
condensed reagents in the one-step treatment can be
decomposedand reformed to weaken the effect of pro-
tecting hydrogen bonds as the second step proceeds
(Table 1). the lines are bent at rna = 100 - 200 for pad-dry-
Fig. 3 shows the effect of moisture content in the cure, two-step wet-cure and two-step poly-set proces-
wet-cure process. Although the effect is not obvious ses. The difference in the above results on WCRA at
in the one-step treatment, the KDIfor the two-step in- the same rna is due to that in the swelling property
creases with the increase in moisture content. This of fibers in the treated fabrics, which results from the
clearlyshows that a higher moisture content can cre- difference in the crosslinking structures and the dis-
ate the more effective protection of hydrogen bonds tribution of reagents because the processes proceeded
becauseof the more uniform distribution of crosslink- at different moisture contents.
ing reagents. To examine the effect of the process on the swelling
3.2.2 The wet crease recovery angle for the property, the SEM photographs of the fiber cross-sec-
two-steptreatment tions were taken (Fig. 5) after swelling treatment
Fig. 4 shows the relationship between the WCRA according to Rollins et a1.12 The swelling of the fiber
andthe rna of the fabrics treated with different pro- after one-step treatments of poly-set and wet-cure (c
cesses.The results show a relationship (equation 2) and e) was more remarkable than that after two-step
equivalent to those reported in our previous treatments (d and f), respectively; the swelling prop-
papers3,4); erty of fibers after resin finishing obviously de-
WCRA=Kw1rna+Kwo (2) creased; and the fiber treated with wet-cure or poly-
whereKw1is affected by the swelling property of fi- set process showed greater swelling than that with
bers in the treated fabric. the pad-dry-cure process, and the one-step or two-
The figure shows that (1) the Kwl for one-step step wet-cure process effected greater swelling than
wet-cure or one-step poly-set process is obviously
higherthan that for two-step wet-cure or two-step
poly-setprocess, respectively; (2) the Kw1 for one-
step or two-step wet-cure process is higher than that
for one-step or two-step poly-set process, respective-
ly, while the Kw1for the two-step poly-set process is
similarto that for the pad-dry-cure process; and (3)
3.2.3 The strength retention for the two-step showed that the swelling property of fibers for the
treatment wet-cure treatment was better than that for the pad-
Fig. 8 shows the relationship between the strength dry-cure or poly-set treatment, and the WCRA of the
loss caused by the crosslinks (SL') and the ra. The treated fabrics was obviously affected by the swelling
SL'is closely related to the product of the number of property of the fibers.
crosslinks and the degree of the crosslinking com-
REFERENCES
pletion (ra) as shown in equation 3 which was re-
portedin our previous papers3'4); 1) M. S. Yen, Y. M. Chang, and C. C. Chen, Sen-i
SL'=Ks ra (3) Gakkaishi, 43, 300 (1987)
The strength loss caused by the crosslinks is near- 2) M.S. Yen, Sen-i Gakkaishi, 43, 305 (1987)
ly independentof the type of the process. 3) M. S. Yen and C. C. Chen, Sen-i Gakkaishi, 44,
4. CONCLUSION 421 (1989),
4) M. S. Yen and C. C. Chen, Sen-i Gakkaishi, 45,
The crosslinking structures and the physical pro- 473 (1989)
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step treatment of wet-cure or poly-set process were P. Rowland, Text. Res.J., 42, 734 (1972)
studiedand the followingresults were obtained. 6) N.R. Bortoniere,L. A. Blouin, L.F. Martin, and S.
(1) For both wet-cure and poly-set treatments, the P. Rowland, Text. Res.J., 44, 140 (1974)
amountof combined CH20 in Fl and Fe were largely 7) A. H. Lambert, R. A. Holser, and R. J. Happer, Jr.,
decreasedas the second step proceeded, while those Text. Chemists Colorists,18, 39 (1986
in Fm and Fc obviously increased, the n decreased, 8) W. A. Reeves, C. Hamalainen,H. H. St. Mard, and
and Yincreased.The crosslinking length of the fabric A. S. Cooper,Jr., Text. Res.J., 37, 76 (1967)
treated with the wet-cure process was longer than 9) H. Ohe, S. Matsuki, M. Terai, H. Kuroda, and S.
that with pad-dry-cure and poly-set processes. The Matsukawa, Text. Res.J., 39, 1065 (1969)
crosslinkingstructures were clearly affected by the 10) S. P. Pandey and P. Nair, Text. Res. J., 51, 332
moisturecontent during wet-cure treatment. (1981)
(2) The physical properties of treated fabrics were 11) M. S. Yen and H. Tonami, Sen-i Gakkaishi, 31,
affectedby the type of the process. With the same 420 (1975)
crosslinkingstructure, the two-step wet-cure treat- 12) M. L. Rollins, J. H. Carra, E.tJ. Gonzales, and R. J.
mentresulted in a better DCRAand WCRAthan pad- Berni, Text. Res.J., 36, 185 (1966)
dry-cureor two-step poly-set treatment. However, the 13) N. T. Baddi, S. B. Patel, and H. R. Chipalkatti,
strengthloss caused by the crosslinks was nearly in- Text. Res.J.. 41, 153 (1971)
dependentof the type of the process. 14) G. L. Madan, S. B. Patal, N. T. Baddi, and P. C.
(3) The scanning electron micrographs of the Mehta, Text. Res.J., 46, 329 (1976)
cross-sectionsof the fibers in the treated fabrics
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