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chill prompted by Barzani’s refusal to take military action One of the biggest propellers of change is flourishing trade
against separatist rebels of the outlawed Kurdistan Workers’ ties. During the week I spent in Erbil at least three differ-
Party (PKK). The PKK’s top leaders are based together with ent business delegations from Turkey were in town. Iraq is
an estimated three to five thousand rebels in the moun- Turkey’s fourth largest trading partner. Most of this trade is
tainous terrain that separates Iraqi Kurdistan from Iran conducted with the Iraqi Kurds. “If Iraqi Kurdistan were an
and Turkey. Turkey still complains that Barzani doesn’t do independent country it would rank among Turkey’s top ten
enough to squeeze the rebels. But it has dropped demands trading partners,” notes Selcen, the Turkish Consul General.
that his peshmerga fighters take up arms against the Turk- Erbil’s main boulevard is dotted with Turkish shops, its sky-
ish Kurds. This in turn reflects the new thinking in Ankara. line with new flashy buildings put up by Turkish contractors.
Firepower alone cannot quell the 25-year long Kurdish These include the five star hotel Divan, owned by Turkey’s
rebellion. Turkey knows that it cannot eradicate the PKK richest conglomerate, Koç Holding. The state-owned Turk-
altogether, but it can weaken them to the point where some ish Airlines is expected to begin flying to the Kurdish region
kind of bargain can be struck. in the coming month and two major Turkish banks will be
opening branches in Erbil next month. It’s hard to imagine
Meanwhile, political, social, and economic reforms tailored that PKK camps are just a three-hour drive away.
to dissuade disaffected young Kurds from heading toward
the mountains need to be rapidly enacted. Turkey’s military During my trip, I met with Barzani at his mountain for-
leadership agrees. This in turn reflects the changes within tress overlooking Erbil. Relaxed and confident he sounded
the Turkish Armed Forces where hardliners are being genuinely committed to improving relations with Ankara.
increasingly sidelined partly as a result of the Ergenekon Over cups of frothy Kurdish style cappuccino, Barzani
trial.2 Armed with the generals’ support, Erdoğan’s ruling heaped praise on Erdoğan for his “daring” and “courageous”
Justice and Development Party (AKP) began introducing reforms and insisted these must not be frozen because of
such measures last year. They were heralded as the “Kurdish the Tokat attack. He said he was ready to continue between
Opening.” They include easing bans on the Kurdish lan- Turkey and the rebels. When I asked him whether Turkey
guage and co-opting Turkey’s largest pro-Kurdish party, the would have to eventually talk to the rebels he said: “Turkey
BDP. These have been twinned with moves to get the PKK will need to deal with the PKK because their problem is
to lay down its weapon with the help of the Iraqi Kurds. with the PKK.” Yet he acknowledged that the rebels were
divided and that there were indeed hardliners bent on sabo-
The opening appeared to slam shut when a group of PKK taging peace. Barzani will undoubtedly be discussing for-
fighters attacked a convoy of Turkish soldiers last Decem- mulas to disarm the PKK and to persuade their leaders to
ber in the northeastern province of Tokat, well outside the go into exile somewhere in Europe or elsewhere. It’s a tricky
rebels’ traditional zone of engagement in the Kurdish domi- affair. Murat Karayilan, the most senior PKK commander
nated southeast. is widely believed to be leaning toward a deal. But he faces
stiff resistance from Cemil Bayık and Dursun Kalkan, vet-
Some seven Turkish soldiers perished in the attack. A wave eran hardliners who are allegedly allied with Iran. Another
of nationalist fury ensued. The raid was probably staged sticking point is the Mahkmour refugee camp, where some
by PKK hardliners who owe their raison d’etre to contin- 10,000 Turkish Kurds have been languishing for years. The
ued violence. Clashes between the PKK and the army have camp, more of a shantytown, has evolved into a rest and
begun to escalate in recent weeks. All of this makes it harder recreation center for the PKK. It also provides recruits.
for Erdoğan to justify further Kurdish-oriented reforms; Repatriating these Kurds will further test relations between
not least because nationwide parliamentary elections are Ankara and the KRG.
scheduled to take place by the summer of 2011. Despite
these setbacks—and much to the PKK’s dismay—Turkey’s I also met with PKK leader Murat Karayilan in the Kandil
relations with the Iraqi Kurds have emerged unscathed. mountains bordering Iran, where the PKK controls a large
swathe of land. The PKK is clearly unnerved by the warm
ties between Turkey and the Iraqi Kurds. They don’t seem to
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Analysis