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LALE BALAS
GAZ UNIVERSITY, ANKARA, TURKEY
CHAPTER I
Engineering Fields Related to Wave
Continental shelf width is the distance from shoreline up to 200 m water depth
Shoreline
Sea surface
200 m 0.005
Shelf Edge 1
Waves are the undulatory motion of a water
surface. The simplest way of looking at
waves is the concept of a wave as a
harmonic oscillation.
A SWL
A
Wave orthogonal
Wave front
Wave period T: The time necessary
between the passages of two
successive wave crests
Wave period is constant, it does not
change with depth.
Wave is periodic in time and in space
frequency f = 1 / T
angular frequency = 2 / T
wave number k= 2 / L
wave speed c = L/ T
wave steepness H / L
Wave Pattern Combining Four Regular Waves
T1,H1
T2,H2
T3,H3
T4,H4
combined
Wave Classification
Assumptions:
z=a
z=0 x
SWL
z=-a
(x,t): Water surface elevation
d (or h)
z=-d
Governing equations
Conservation of Mass: 1 d
u 0
dt
u v w
0 Continuity equation,
x y z for incompressible fluids
u ( x, z , t ) Velocity potential
x
w( x, z , t ) u 0
z
Governing equations
Laplace Equation:
2 2
2 0
x 2
z
p is pressure
du 1 2 is the water density
p F u is diffusion coefficient
dt
Fluid is incompressible, no viscous, irrotational, etc..
Euler equation:
du 1
p F
dt
Unsteady Bernoulli equation:
p
gz 0
t
Boundary conditions
Dynamic boundary condition at the free surface:
In z = , p = 0 g 0
t
Kinematic boundary condition at the free surface:
d
w u
dt t x
Boundary conditions
or
H g coshk (d z)
cos(kx t )
2 cosh(kd)
C
k Wave celerity (speed): A single
wave moves in positive x-
direction with C
g
C tanh(kd )
k
Alternate Forms for Linear Dispersion
Relationship
2 gT 2 2
L L o tanh d tanh d an iterative technique
L 2 L
is often used
Wave propagates
from deep water toward the shore
Wave period will remain constant
Other characteristics such as the height,
length, celerity, surface profile, internal
pressure field, and particle kinematics
change
To define a wave propagation,
Wave period T or wave length L
Wave height H or amplitude a
Water depth d
should be specified
Wave Classification by
Relative Depth
SWL
shoreline
SHALLOW
INTERMEDIATE WATER
DEEP
WATER d/L=1/20
WATER
d/L=1/2
HYPERBOLIC FUNCTIONS
1 cosh x
sinh x
1 tanh x 1
Asymptotic Form of Hyperbolic Functions
DEEP SHALLOW
WATER WATER
Asymptotic
Form of
Hyperbolic
Functions
Deep Water Wave Length and Celerity d/L<1/2
gT 2 2d gT 2
L tanh( ) Lo 1.56T 2
2 L 2
gT 2d Co
gT
1.56T
C tanh( ) 2
2 L
Wave celerity
C=L/T
C gd
(a function of depth only)
SWL shoreline
DEEP INTERMEDIATE
SHALLOW L T gd
WATER
WATER WATER C gd
Lo1.56T2 d/LO=0.0157
Co1.56T
L function of T and d
d/LO=1/2 C function of only T
L and C function of T
and d
Lo and Co function 2 gT 2 2
of only T L L o tanh d tanh d
L 2 L
2 gT 2
C C o tanh d tanh d
L 2 L
Some Useful Functions
d/Lo>1/2 DEEP WATER
(GWT: Gravity Wave Table)
HOMEWORK I
Calculate wave length L for a propagating with a
period of T=8 sec, and with a wave height of H=2
m. At a depth of
a)d=60 m
b)d=20 m
c)d=1 m.
Draw the shape of water surface displacement for
each of the cases
An Example Problem
200 m 0.005
Warning system sensor 1
Example: What is the celerity of tsunami in deep
water?
Solution:
The typical wave length of a tsunami is thousand of
kilometers and periods of hours. Since the wave
length of tsunami is very large compared with the
depth, then tsunami is a shallow water wave.
C gd 800 km / h
Solution Explanation
depth at x how much time is required
to travel a distance dx?
d ( x ) 0.005 (40000 x )
dx
wave speed at x dt
x C( x )
C( x ) gd ( x )
h(x)
200 m 0.005
Warning system sensor 1
Ta 40000 40000 dx
dx
dt Ta=1806.1 sec
0 0 C( x ) 0 gd ( x ) =30 min.
1. Longer waves travel faster than shorter waves.
2. Small increases in T are associated with large
increases in L.
Long waves (swell) move fast and lose little energy.
Short wave moves slower and loses most energy
before reaching a distant coast.
The photo shows waves entering shallow
water. Notice how the wave crests rise from
an almost invisible swell in the far distance.
As they enter shallow water, they also
change shape and are no longer sinus-like.
Although their period remain the same, their
distance between crests and their speed,
diminish.
the red line gives the linear relationship between wave speed and
wave period.
SUMMARY