IffiNBUL

ENGLISH I
 Cover: The Mosque of Sultan Ahmed (The Blue Mosque)t
Back cover: 1- Christ, frescoe Hagia Sophia
2- The Hagia SoPhia.
3- The Mosque of Sultan Ahmed.
4- A young girl telling'fortune in the coffee'grounds'
y'Bosphorus Bridge as seen at night'

2
1 4
3

Published and distributed bY:

NET TURISnIK YAYINLAR A.g.
Yerebatan Caddesi, 1513,
SiMt 0 Sultanahmet, lstanbul'Tu RKEY
Tel: (90-l) 52(n406 - 5274270
1362. Sokak,2lB, Emek ighan6
35230 QankaYa, lzmir'TIIRKEY
' Tel: (90.ttI) 1n@1 '253861
Deniz Mahallesi, 126. Sokak,
QiillA Ail., D.2, AntalYa.TURKEY
PhotograPhs: U{ur AYYtldtz'
Nadir Ede (21, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 57, 60, 61, 62, 63),
Sami Giiner (6,62, 96),
Siileyman Kagar QA, 44, 59, 75),
Halfrk 6z6zlii (18, 74, 82, 92)
Layout: Not Ajans (Selim AYdag)
Type1etting: Sistem Foto Dizgi
Colour separation: Qali Grafik
Printed in Turkey by: Giizel Sanatlat Matbaaa A.$.
copyright @ 1986 NET TUR\STIK YAYINLA? A-9.
All rights reserved.

16th Edition, 1987

CONTENTS
Welcome to lstanbul 4
Tours of the City 5
Orientation 6
History 7
Map of lstanbul and Bosphorus 8-9
The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet (The
Blue Mosque) 14
The City Hippodrome 22
The Hagia Sophia Museum 27
The Basilica Cistern 38
The lstanbul Archaeological
Museum 39
Ottoman Empire 42
The Topkapr Palace 45
The Kariye Museum 65
The SUleymaniye Mosque 71
The Covered Bazaar (The Grand
Bazaarl 74
Map of Bosphorus 79
The Golden Horn and the Galata
Bridge 80
Leander's Tower 82
The Beylerbeyi Palace 82
The Dolmabahge Palace 85
Bosphorus 89
Rumeli Hisarr (The European
Fortress) 91
Anadolu Hisan (The Anatolian
Fortress) 92
 WELCOME TO ISTANBUL

lstanbul, once a city that aroused the curiosities of travellers as the centre of the
world, is a metropolis where Eastern and Western civilizations meet. lt the city,
the contemporary western way of life exists together with the traditional. Modein
buildings and art forms appear side by side with classical Turkish, Byzantine and
Roman masterpieces. lstanbul is the largest city in Turkey, owing iargely to its
status as the most active trade, import and export, industry enteitalnment and
education centre of the country. The climate of lstanbul is mild and the landscape,
with sea and land intermingling in delicate harmony, is beautiful.
The Bosphorus is beautiful around the year, even in the rainy
snowy days of the winter. spring, with its different shades - andofoccasionally
green and
-
blossoming trees is rather short and the month of May marks the beginning of
summer in lstanbul. Also in May thousands of travellers f rom all parts oithe wortd
begin pouring in to enjoy the beauty and the historical riches of the city.
Summer in lstanbul means rushing to the beaches. There are not many cities in
the world that offer as great a choice as does lstanbul in variety of sea bathing
-both the cool waters of the Black Sea and the splendid warm beaches of the
Princes' lslands easily reached f rom the city centre by short cruises. On the shores
of the Bosphorus as well as the Sea of Marmara are numerous beach facilities
available to the public. The long autumn, when the skies are clear and the
temperatures are moderate, is especially suitable for tourism.
Turkish cuisine is also an experience not to be missed. (The Turkish kitchen is
one of the three major culinary schools of the world.) Fresh f ruits and vegetables
of unbelievable variety appear on the menus especially in spring, sum-mer and
autumn, and fresh fish from the Black sea, the Bosphorus and the sea of Mar-
mara is a treat to palates mistreated elsewhere.
 TOURS OF THE CITY

Historic lstanbul cannot be separated f rom the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn,
by the shores which it was first founded. There are not many places in the world
wnere wonders of nature and masterpieces of man mix so gracefully, and where
the testimony of the past is heard as vividly, as in lstanbul. And the tours of this
magnificent city all end with beautif ul memories for the visitors who take them.
fne Oaity tours offered by local travel agencies usually enable the visitor staying
for a short time to see the principal spots of interest in the city such as the Haghia
Sophia Museum, the SUleymaniye Mosque, the Blue Mosque, the Hippodrome,
theTopkapr Palace and the Covered Bazaar and its surroundings. ln addition to
these classical tourS, there are many other tours of prominent Roman, Byzantine
and Turkish sites in thecity,as well as along the Asian and European shores of
the Bosphorus. These daily tours depart f rom hotels or the port and last for half
a day oi a f ull day giving ihe visitor a general overview of lstanbul.
However, if a general idea is not what is sought and the visitor wishes to see all
there is to be seen in lstanbul, more time is necessary. Than the visitor can ex-
plore the Roman city walls the renowned Kariye Museum, with its late Byzantine
irescoes and mosaics, the Dolmabahge Palace on the Bosphorus which is regard-
ed as the richest palace in the world, the Spice Market, the Galata Tower, the Ar-
chaeological Museum and the Turkish and lslamic arts Museum. An lstanbul
evening tourwith belly-dancing and folk shows is a night straight f rom the 1001
Nights.
R visit to lstanbul may provide some travellers with the opportunity of setting foot
in Asia for the first time, since there are daily tours either by boat or across the
Bosphorus Bridge that joins the two continents. lt is in course of these tours,
especially while crossing the bridge or during a repose at the Qamlrca Hill that
one gets to see city in its complete magnificence.
 ORIENTATION

The historic city of lstanbul was originally founded on the seven hills of a penin-
sula surrounded on its three sides by the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and
the gulf called the Golden Horn. The location was ideal for many reasons. lt was
centrally located on East-West trade routes, easily defendable with only one land-
ward side, it dominates-the wellprocted 8 km long natural harbour of the Golden
Horn, which was surrounded by fertile land abounding in game and the climate
was mild around the year. Concequently, the city kept growing gradually and from
the 4th century A.D. on, was regarded as the centre of the old world since it was
the capital of one empire or another (namely the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman
empires in succession) for about '1600 years, a capital where over 120 emperors
and sultans reigned.
Throughout its history, the old city kept growing westwards on the peninsula, and
accordingly that segment of the city walls was rebuilt four times. The last line,
which can still be seen today, was built in the 5th century A.D. and had stood
against the assaults of many conquerors before giving in to the Ottoman Army
of Sultan Mehmed ll in 1453.
Under Ottoman rule, the city began to change. The fact that there was no longer
the threat of any enemy reaching the capital of the powerful empire facilitated
the development of new settlements on the Asian as well as the European coasts
of the Bosphorus and also on the hills across the Golden Horn where a Genoese
colony emerged at a spot called Galata. A very signif icant change was that of the
skyline of the city - the fine minarets of royal mosques that are regarded as the
crowns of lstanbul began rising irito the sky immediately after the conquest of
the city.
Today lstanbul is the largest city of modern Turkey, and with its 15 million in-
habitants, one of the most crowded European cities. In the old city that has ex-
panded beyond the city walls since the end of the 19 th century, most of the main
roads and squares are stillthe same as they had been in the Sth and 6th cen-
turies. Most of the important buildings palaces, places of worship,etc.
the Byzantine and Ottoman periods and
-
even
- of
some of those of the Roman period
still stand intact. Most of the narrow streets and peculiar apartment houses of
Gatata and Beyoglu where the Christian population of the city used to dwell still
look the samsas they did at the turn of the century, and the European architec-
tural style of some ad-90 years ago may be observed in the part uphillwhere the
embasiies of European countries had accumulated. Nowadays, this area is sur-
rounded by modern hotels, trade centres and residential quarters.
The hills on the twolsides of the Bosphorus are covered with woods. The shores
are adorned with magnif icient palaces, mosques' summer quarters of some em-
bassies to the Ottoman Empire and the two fortresses. Also contemporary
buildings blend into the predominately historic outlook of the Bosphorus. Because
peoplelend to prefer eating and drinking amidst beautiful scenery, both shores
abound in restaurants and taverns where f resh seafood and other mezes (Turkish
Hors d'oeuvres) are served.
The Bosphorus currents which posed a great challenge to the sailboats and
rowboats of the old times today carry the dense traffic between Black Sea ports
and the rest of the world. on a tour of the Bosphorus, the most dominant sight
is of course the Bosphorus Bridge. Built in 1973, the bridge has reduced to minutes
the time needed foi motor vehicles to cross the strait. Today, about on third of
the population of lstanbul resides in the Asian part of the city. Here the major
points'of attraction are several beautiful mosques in UskUdar; the Barracks of
belimiye, which while serving as a military hospital during the Crimean War,
witnessed the heroic work of Florence Nightingale, founder of modern nursing;
and the twin hills of Qamlrca offering the eye the best panaromic view of lstan'
bul. Also in the vicinityris the Karacaahmet Gemetery,ithe largest graveyard in the
lslamic world.
Another important part of lstanbul is the Princes' lslands, a group of nine islands
and islets in the Sea of Marmara. The four larger islands in the group have many
beautiful summer houses and villas. There are no motor vehicles on any of the
islands and the only means of transportation are the horsedrawn phaetons'
The Sea of Marmara, known as the "smallest sea in the world" is connected to
the Black Sea through the Strait of Bosphorus and to the Aegean through the
Strait of Dardanelles. It is exceptionally rich in fish and sea flora.

HISTORY

Turkey is a land of historic treasures. No other land in the world has as bountiful
historic treasures as Turkey, a land also of many unique wonders of nature. Situated
as a bridge between two continents, the peninsula called Anatolia or Asia Minor
which constitutes the larger part of the country has been regularly inhabited by
man since the prehistoric-ages and has witnessed the flourishing of many of the
ancient civilizations known today. There are thousands of archaeological sites
discovered in Turkey until this day, some of which date back to the 9 th millenium
B.C.
Of the two ancient settlements near the twin straits that mark the western fron-
tiers of Anatolia, namely the ancient city of Troy near the Strait of Dardanelles
(Hellespont) and the city of lstanbul near the Strait of Bosphorus, the former is
iust a famous ruin nowadays, whereas the latter is still living, more lively than
ever. The highlight of the history of the smaller European part of Turkey is the
history of lstanOul. There are many legends about the foundation of the city. The
most famous of these goes as follows: At about 650 B.C. atribe of seafarersldecide.
to leave their home city called Megara- under the guidance of their leader
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 Byzas, to search for a new homeland. ln that time
it was customary to consult soothsayers for
everything to be done. The soothsyaing priests told
him that they sould settle at a place "facing the land
of the blind". Byzas and his people setsail and after
a long and exhausting search in many seas, came
to the peninsula of lstanbul. They immediately ad-
mired the beauty and bounty lying in f ront of them
and naticed the possibilities offered by the gulf now
called the Golden Horn. Then they also spotted a
colony a colony of people living across the strait
and Byzas rudled have "if people whoe have come
this close to a piece of land so suitable for settle-
ment failto see its virtues, they must be blind" and
hence they built on the peninsule the f oundations
of the city we now call lstanbul.
On the other hand, traces of settlement in about 3rd
millenium B.C have been uncovered in excavations
near lhe apex of the Golden Horn and in the Asiatic
part of the city.
Constantine's Column: Erected 4th century A.D.
on the occasion of making lstanbul the new
Roman Capital.

For a f ew centuries following its establishment,lstanbul existed as a sea port and

centre of trade, sovereign for some periods and under the control of superior
powers dominating the region the rest of the time. ln this period, the city had
its acropolis at the site where the Topkapt Palace stands today, and a busy port
was situated at the well-sheltered entrance of the Golden Horn. The strong city
walls started at the port and, running along the outskirts of the settlement area,
reached the Sea of Marmara. lstanbul retained this outlook during the rule of the
Roman Empire until the yearA.D. 191 when the city took sides with what apparently

The Roman land walls: sth century A.D. This formidable defense system, more than 6 kilometres long
wiht g6 towers, eflectively stopped all invaders until the Turkish Conquest in 1453.
was the wrong party in a dispute over the throne of the empire. After a siege that
lasted for more than two years, it was conquered and razed to the ground by the
Roman Emperor Septimius Severus. The city was later rebuilt by the same emperor
as a larger city with new city walls and many new buildings.
ln the 4th century, the Pax Romana had expanded to such a wide area that the
city of Rome, iis capital, no longer had a central location. Emperor Constantine
the Great who observed the problems this situation caused recognized the ad-
vantages offered by lstanbul's location, at the crossroads of the major land and
sea routes of the time and its mild climate and consequently named the city as
his new capital.'l-his triggered rapid development in the city. A new line of city
walls were built in about six years so that the city could expand comfortably, and
a number of temples, palaces, off icial buildings, baths and a hippodrome were
constructed. ln A,D. 330 with great fanfare, the city was off icially proclaimed to
be the capital of the Roman Empire. During the golden age that began with this
event, the city was first called Deutera Roma (the Second Rome) or Nea Roma
(the New Rome), but these two names were soon given up and replaced by Byzan-
tium which was used until many centuries later when "Constantinopolis" (or
"Polis" for short among the common folk) became the fashion for a time.
The emperors succeeding Constantine carried on with the effort to beautify and
improve the city and had new buildings, avenues, aqueducts an monuments built
for this purpose. The f irst churches of the city were also constructed during this
period.

ln the year 395, the great Roman Empire was divided into two parts. The Western
Empire collapsed soon afterwards in the 5th century whereas the Eastern
- -
Empire, called the Byzantine Empire by contemporary historians, continued to
exist for more than a thousand years.lts roots were fourfold.The Byzantine Em-
pire grew under the influence of earlier Anatolian civilizations; structures and

Aqueduct of Vatens : Earty Sth centur,y. Part of the Roman water supply system for lstanbul.
 codes adopted from the East; its inheritance from the Roman Empire; and most
important of all the influence of Christianity;ln the first half of the 5th century,
during the reign of EmperorTheodosius ll, the boundaries of the city were enlarged
again, and the 6492 meter-long city walls that still stand today in all their
magnificence were built. These walls that were constructed as two parallel lines
of fortifications with a deep moat on the outside are knownito have stopped
numerous attacks.
ln the 6th century, the city and its population of more than half a million enjoyed
another golden age of prosperity and progress under Emperor Justinian. The
Church of Haghia Sophia, Byzantium's most imposing place of worship that still
stands today, was bulit during this emperor's reign, and the city was restiuctured
aroundiit with allthe major avenues starting at the Church and running towards
the city walls, branching into two at some of the important squares.
The history of the Byzantine Empire and that of the city of lstanbul after Justi-
nian is filled with palace and church intrigue, Persian and Arabic attacks and
bloody power struggles that often resulted in the replacement of dynasties. Dur-
ing the lconoclastic movement between the years 726 and 842, the use of icons
was denounced.
The latin invasion of the city that began inl2bin the course of the Fourth Crusade
is a dismal chapter in the history of lstanbul. The strong and battle-ready crusader
army had little problem in conquering the city and immediately began robbing
it of its treasures. The looting went on for many years and was extended even
to such holy places as churches and monasteries. When the invasion ended in
1261, the city was stripped of everything vaulable and could never become the
'prosperous city it once'.was, up until itssiege'and eventual conquest by the ot-
tomans in 1453.
The sperior guns of large caliber used forthe first time in history by Sultan Mehmet
ll (later to be called Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror) during the siege that lasted
for 53 days. The twenty-one year old conqueror immediately moved the capital
of the Ottoman Empire to lstanbul, and after increasing the population by mov-
ing in immigrants f rom the other parts of the empire, launched a campaign to repair
and restore the city. ln the meantime, he granted freedom of religion and other
rights to the non-Moslems of the city. Some of the desolate churches including
the Haghia Sophia were repaired an converted to mosques.
It is a consequence of the rights granted to non-Moslems by Mehmet the Con-
queror that the Patriarchate of the Christian Orthodox Church is still in lstanbul
and that a large non-Moslem population stilllives inthe city and elsewhere in the
country.
After the Turkish takeover of lstanbul, the city once again became a major city
of the East, and by the end of the hundred years following the conquest, the un-
mistakable lines of Turkish art had become prevalent in the city, and the elegant
silhouettes of minarets an domes dominated the skyline.
The Ottoman Empire that developed from a small Turkish tribe into a powerful
international hegemony controlling parts of Europe, Asia and Af rica had lstanbul
as its capital through the remainder of its existence. Furthermore, after the Ot-
toman Sultans assumed the title and powers of the Caliph (Successor to the Pro-
phet Mohammed) the city of lstanbul was regarded as the capital of the lslamic
World.
Throughout the reigns of various Sultans succeding Mehmet the Conqueror, the
efforts to improve lstanbul continued. ln the colourful pages of the history of lstan-
bul covering that period there is no record of any war in or near the city. However,
there is frequent record of great f ires that destroyed large sections of the city.
 Ataftirk (1881 - 1938): Nationat hero and founder of Turkish Republic.

The lmperial Palace was located at the site of the ancient acropolis with an in'
credibly-bybeautiful view of the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus. The palace,
known the name Topkapt, served for about four hundred years as the residence
of Sultans as well as the administrative headquarters of the empire' Later on, in
the 19th century, palaces and lodges began to be built on the coast of the
Bosphorus in the European architecturalstyleThese palaces, built within a short
time, are regarded by many as symbols of the decline of the Ottoman Empire that
had begun even earlier.
fiie Oejf ine of the Empire proved irreversible, and in the years following the end
of World War l, the historic city that once was Byzantium witnessed the end of
another great empire. However, the end of the Ottoman Empire did not mean the
end of 1ie determination of the Turkish people to live as an independent nation
on the land which they had made their home for more than nine centuries. While
the victors of the World War were engaged in heated debate among themselves
concerning the way Turkish land would be split,a noble commander of the Ot-
toman Army, Mustafa Kemal, left lstanbul for Anatolia (partly occupied already)
with the purpose of kindling the f ire of independence. The fire he started spread
rapidly to cover the whole country, and after a four-year struggle supported by
almost no resources except willpower and determination,cannons in lstanbul and
all around the country were fired on October 29,1923 to celebrate the foundation
of the Republic of TurkeY.
From then on, the first president of the very f irst republic in Asia, now given the
Surname AtatUrk ("Father of the Turks"), led the country on the path towards
western civilization. This new phase in the history of Turkey involved, among other
things, the expatriation of the last Sultan and the imperial family, the adoption
of the Latin alphabet, the abolishment of the Caliphate and the prohibition of such
garments of eastren origin as the fez and veiled dress. By the time AtatUrk died
I3
 in 1938, Turkey was recognized as a member of the western world. Although
the
capital of the new republic was Ankara, this never reduced the importance of-lstan-
bul, and the largest city of modern Turkey continued to maintain its enchanting
outlook and its vivacious way of life.

THE MOSQUE OF SULTAN AHMET (THE BLUE MOSOUE)

The Mosque of Sultan Ahmet, one of the most revered masterpieces not only
of
Turkey but of the lslamic World as well, inspires deep admiration in all those who
visil it. A striking example of classical rurkish art, ihis royal mosque is unique
in that it is the only mosque originally built with six minarefs. The mosque is
sur-
rounded by many monuments dating back to the earlier phases of the i-ristory ot
lstanbul, and its f ine silhouette is a prominent part of the beautif ul skyline of lsian-
bul as seen from the sea.
Although built between 1609 and 1616 by suttan Ahmet I (and named for him),
the mosque is known throughout the world as "the Blue Mosque" owing to tne
domi'nant colour of the paint and the ceramic tiles used generously to decorate
its interior. The architect designed and built the mosquias the core 6f a com-
plex consisting of such f unctional buildings as a covered bazaar, a Turkish
bath,
a public kitchen for the poor, a hospital, schools, a caravanserai, and later on
the
tomb of Sultan Ahmet l. Unfortunately, some of these structures have not surviv-
ed to this day.
The main entrance to the mpsqu,e is on the side facing to the ancient Roman hip-

14
@rome and opens to the outer court that surrounds a podium upon which the
main structure and the inner court are situated. Through the door that opens
to the inner court, above the diminutive ablution fountain and the colonnade that
surround the main building, one can see the series of cupolas that rise in a
beautiful harmony. The main building has three entrances through which one may
walk and be impressed immediately by the colourf ul decor of hand-painted ceramic
tiles and stained-glass windows. The interior space of the mosque is a large whole.

ln a mosque as fascinatin, beatiful and serene as the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet, a believer can say
his prayers in ultmost reverenee.
The batcony next to the south pillar, supported by columns, is for chanters.

l5
The central cupola and the four spherical semi-domes are supported by broken
arches and four thigk grooved pillars. The central cupola of the mosque is 23.50
m in diameterand its height at the keystone is43 m.The walls of the galleries
on three sides of the nave are covered by more than 20,000 magnificient hand-
made tiles from iznik. The higher parts of the walls and the inner surfaces of the
cupolas are decorated with paint. The colour of paint on these parts originally
was not blue. lt was only in one of the later repairs that the colour that earned
the mosque its name was applied to the walls and work is being carried on since
the late 1970's to remove the doininant blue paint that was not there originally
and restore the mosqu.e's interior to its original appearance. The f loor of the mos-
que is covered, in conformity with tradition, by carpets donated by believers. On
the wall facing the entrance is the mihrab (the prayer niche on the wall facing
the Kaaba in Mecca) and the minber (pulpit) which are carved beatifully out of
white marble. To the left of the mihrab is the Sultan's box which looks like a
balcony. The interior of the mosque is illuminated by natural light through 260
windows.
The cupolas, semi-domes and arches that ref lect the exterior form of the mosque
to the interior are decorated with paint. The mural inscriptions, every line in itself
a product of great artistic effort, are verses from the Koran. Sun rays stealing in
through the windows at dif"ferent angles at different times of the day add colour
to this beautiful monument.
As seen f rom the land side, the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet with its system of cupolas
and semidomes has the apperance of a pyramid rising over a base of horse
che6tnut and plane trees. The fact that the number of minarets was equal to that
of the mosque at the Holy Kaaba at that time caused some criticism f rom Moslem
clergy, and Sultan Ahmet solved the problem by helping raise a seventh minaret
for the mosque at Mecca.
The balconies on the minarets are reached by a spiral staircase. ln older days,
mUezzins used to climb these balconies f ive times a day to call the believers to
the mosque for prayers at the proper times. Nowadays, public address systems
are being used for this purpose.

From the Asian coast at the en-

trance of the BosPhorus, the
skyline of lstanbul at summer
sunset hasa fairy tale qualitY,of-
fering the viewer a unique and
memorable experience.

Winter brings lstanbul occasional

snowfall. The view of numerous
cupolas under snow gives the ci-
ty's monuments an entirelY dif-
ferent out look.
 Blue fviosque af if;'e sr:iti$i.

Frayer$ in flre rncsr;u*

,.,*#
The rules of lslam dictate that every good Moslem practice namaz (Moslem prayer)
five times a day. When they hear the call to prayer, chanted at minarets by the
m0ezzins, believers perform ablution and rush to the mosques. The noon prayer
of Fridays and two times in a year morning prayers on religious holidays, the last
prayer of the month of Ramadan as well as funeral prayers, are necessarily prac'
ticed in the mosques as a congregation, whereas all other prayers may be prac-
ticed at the designated time at any suitable place. The'mass.prayers in the
mosques are led by imams who recite verses from the Koran.

During prayer in the mosque, women and men occupy separate quarters;while men
have their prayers at the front and center,women sit atthe back and the sides'
The classicalTurkish mosques are structured to permit most believers in the con-
gregation to see the mihrab even on the most crowded days. While the higher
paris of the walls of the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet are decorated with paint, the
walls of those galleries allocated for women are covered by beautif ul ceramic tiles,
made specially for the mosque upon orders of the Sultan.

The Moslems are washing their hands, faces
and feet before praying.
20
The cupolas and the cones at the top
of the minarets are covered with lead
plates, and the crescent-shaped stan-
dards at their peaks are made of gold-
plated copper. Therapairs of these are
still being made witih the same techni-
ques as in the old days.
The private praying ptace of the Sultans in the Blue Mosque is adiacent to a section composed of
several small and large rooms origina!ly atloted to the rest of Sultans. Starting from 1970's these
premisses have been transformed into Carpet Museum of the Administration of Foundations. The
Museum disptaying a rich cotlection of carpets in a successf ull and contemporary manner, is also
a site of repair and maintenance.
The lower part of the Blue Mosque is divided into long halls by means of arcades and vaulted archs.
An exceptionally rich exposition,of kilims is displayed in this interesting place.
 4f,,,,.:.;

THE CITY HIPPODROME

The "Hippodrome" (the horse-field or equestrians' field,by translation) was built

in the second century A.D. during the reign of the Roman emperor septimius
Severus, and was expended to clossal dimensions under Constantine the Great
Some historias recoid the seating capacity of this huge arena as 30,000 and some
even go so far as 60,000.
The Hjppodrome served during the times of the Roman and Byzantine empires
as the entertainment, amusement and sports centre of the city, with 2-or 4-horse
chariot races being the highlight of each day's programme which also featured
performanceS by grOupS of muSicians, dancers, acrobats and animal trainers'
'Especiatly
during [ne noman empire when holidays were numerous people had
ample leisure time and spent most of it at the Hippodrome'
The Hippodrome was U-shaped and the Emperor's box, with four bronze statues
of horses on its roof, was located by the eastern stretch of the track' A low wall
seperated the two stretches and also served as a podium for mementoes brought
f rom all around the empire, and the statues of famous chariot
drivers and hQrses.
ln those days, a chariot race laureate would be regarded as a public hero and come
to possesjaft tne riches conceivable.Consequently,all the chariot drivers would
compete with all their might, sometimes employing the most ruthless tactics to
Win. They Were diVided intO teamS Of "BlUeS" , "Greens", "RedS", etC' and With
their fans and supporters even had political power. This intermixture of sports
anJ politics woutd sometimes lead to curious consequences such as street fights
and even massacres triggered just by the humiliation of one of the teams
(or,
more appropriately, political parties) in a chariot race'
22
The Egyptian 1betisk : 17th eentury B.C" Eraught ts lstanbul in tke 4th centuty A.D. fo be used as
decoration for the hippodrarne.

23
 For centuries, the Hippodrome stood erect and continued to be one of the most
important landmarks of the"Byzantine city. Then, after the invasion of the
Crusaders in 1204, it was stripp6d of almost all the monuments that once adorn-
ed it and eventuallY destroYed.
Later, during the Oitbman rule of the city, the Hippodrome grounds were used
occaionally ior some festivities and cremonies that were reminiscent of its early
times.
What is left of this once magnificient arena is the racing track - or rather the
ouiline of it -witlr the surface filled to3 level 4-5 meters above the original,
and only three monuments: Two of them obelisks and the third, the Serpentine
Column.

THEEGYPTIANoBELISK(THEoBEL|SKoFTHEoDoSlusl)

This obelisk made of exceptionally high quality pink granite was originally erected
around 14g0 B.C. by the Pharaoh Tuthmosis lll at a spot in front of the Temple
of Karnak at Luxor to commemorate the victories his armies had won in
Mesopotamia. lt was brought to lstanbul during the fourth century upon orders
of a Roman emperor not yet identified clearly, who wished to stage a happening
thad would demonstrate his power and hence excite and impress his people'
The obelisk was left lying at one corner of the Hippodrome for a long while until
the year 390 that fatti witnin the reign of Teodosius I when it was erected with
gr""t Oitti"ulty by Proclus, one of the administrators of the city. The obelisk which
[as always been regarded as enchanted by the people of the city is the most an-
cient monument in istanbul.
The obelisk stands on four bronze cubes placed on a Roman base adorned with
reliefs depicting the Emperor, his family and other important people watching the
races f rom the imperial box as well as the people, musicians, dancers and chariot
raceslhe height of theobeliskwith its base is 25.60 meters from ground level.
At the southern end of the Hippodrome stands the imitation obelisk built out of
roughly shaped pieces of stone. The exact date it was built is not known, and
thehonument is named after Emperor Constantine Porphyregenetus who had
it repaired in the 1Oth century. The bronze plaques that used to cover it were looted
during the Fourth Crusade.

MUSEUM OF TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ARTS

To the west the Hippodrome opposite the Mosque of sultan Ahmet stands the
palace of ibrahim Paga which is the only example that remains of the beautiful
private palaces that abounded in the city duringj the 16th century. The palace now
serves as the Museum of Turkish and lslamic Arts'

24
Museum of Turkish and lslamic Arts: Contains a rich cotlection of metals, ceramics, books, etc. along
with the world's finest coltection of hand'made Turkish carpets'

THE SERPENTINE COLUMN: The Seroentine Col-

umn is one of the most ancient monuments of lstan-
bul. lt was originally the base of the golden
cauldron, with the heads of three serpents whose
bodies are spun together in a column providing the
three points on which the cauldron rested. The 8
metre column and the cauldron were made by
melting the bronze items captured by 31 Greek
cities when they defeated the Persians in the 5th
century B.C. and erected at the Temple of Apollo
in Delphi. ln A.D. 324, Emperor Constantine the
Great had it carried to lstanbul and erected at the
Hippodrome. According to many sources, the heads
of the serpents were still intact by the early'1700's,
but were broken afterwards. Later, one of the heads
was found and placed in the lstanbul Museum of
Archaeology.
THE GERMAN FOUNT,AIN:The octagonal, domed fountain at the entrance of the
Hippodrome was a gift of the German Emperor Wilhelm ll to Sultan Abduihamid
ll and the City of lstanbul. lt was made in Germany and installed at its present
site in lstanbul in 1898. The dome of the fountain designed in the neo-Byzantine
style is decorated with golden mosaics.
Although a beautiful piece of art, the German Fountain poses a contrast to the
ancient monuments that surround it.
 THE HAGHIA SOPHIA MUSEUM

The Haghia Sophia, nominated by many an author an historian as one of the

eighth
wonders of the world, is certainly the number one masterpiece of architecture
by merit of its being one of the few structures of such huge dimensions
to have
stood erect for So long. lts architectural mastery was far ahead of its time
unmat-
ched for 1000 Years.
Orijinalty Haghia Sophia (in Turkish Ayasofya) the building's name is mistranslated
as Saint boph-ia. The basilica was not dedicated io a saint named
Sophia, but rather
to l-.loly Wisdom, and the two smaller basilicas built earlier at the same site where
once a pagan temple had stood, had borne the same name. The first Haghia
during the second
sophia, a srnoll structure with a wooden roof , was constructed
son of Constantine the Great'
half of the 4th century upon order of ConstantiuS,
to the father, it is not possible to
A.lthough some Sour;es attribute the honour
that no house of worship was
iake thi"s claim seriously, for there is clear evidence
ilulit Crring his reign. T"he f irst Basilica of Haghia Sophia burned down complete-
ly during itlre in the year 404,and the second basilica which was of somewhat
tirger dirnensions was opened in 415.1t Served Chirstians for more than a century
unt-il 532 wi'len, in the course of an uprising against the
government of Emperor
Jqrstinian (Nika Revolt)that ended in the death of ten thousand and the destruc-
tion of nrany buildings, it too was burned down'
Jttstinian, who was able to suppress the uprising with great difficulty, ordered
innmediately afterwards that a temple "like nothing seen before since
the day of
Adam or can be seen in the f uture" be built as soon as possible atop the rem-
available
nants of the second HaghiaSophia. He made all the necessary means
to the architect nnthemius of Tralles and the mathematician lsidorus,of Miletos
 who were to prepare the plans and supervise construction, and placed all the riches
of the state treasury at their disposal. Finally in 537, the largest church of the
Christian world was dedicated among great festivities.

The general plan of the Haghia Sophia was actually the same that had been used
a long time in many basilicas. However, this did not make things any easier in
designing the dome. By the 6th century, a system devised earlier by Roman ar-
chitects for covering large cylindrical structures with a single dome was available
to architects, but a huge centrally-located circular cupola on top of a rectangular
structure was to be tried for the first time in the world. Work progressed while
monks kept chanting prayers seeking Holy protection. Numerous marble pieces
and columns of different shapes and sizes dating back to more ancient times were
brought in f rom ruins all around the empire and used in the building. Later on,
a variety of legends grew up regarding the origins of these materials, especially
the columns, but none of such can be taken seriously.
As said before, the Haghia Sophia was conceived an built by Justinian merely
as a prestige building. Nevertheless, it was regarded with awe during the centuries
that followed as a holy symbol, for it was not plausible for the people of those
days that such a building of a size unsurpassable for about a thousand years and
one that would require enormous resources and a technology much more advanc-
ed than what they were accustomed to could be built without the assistance of
supernatural powers.
Although it was created during the 6th century as a Byzantine tectonic work,
Haghia Sophia is actually an experiment in the Roman tradition of architecture
which had no archetype and which could not be imitated afterwards. The con-
trast between the exterior and interior of the building as well as the colossal dome
28
are legacies of the Roman era. The exterior is not finelined, and the constituent
elements are not tastef ully proportioned. ln other words, the exterior was treated
simply as a crust or shell, an does not fit properly to the interior that has the
magnif icience of a palace, a grandeur becoming an imperial building. This bit of
ciriticism on outlook not with standing,the Haghia Sophia was a great achieve-
ment especially at the time it was built, and it must have been the magnitude
of his achievement that excited Emperor Justinian during the basilica's dedica'
tion to the point of drivin his chariot into the building and after praising the Lord
for judging him worthy of such an achievement, shouting that he had surpassed
King Solomon. The basilica soon developed into a religious centre with the
monasteries that surrounded it within a few years, and was ready to be the scene
of the perpetual struggle between the Byzantine Emperors and the Eastren Church.

Despite its uniqueness and magnificence, the building had many structural pro-
blems. The most important of these was that of statics. At the time the Hagia
Sophia was built, the architectural means of transferring the weight of the cupola
to the foundations were not yet fully developed. Consequently, the walls that kept
slanting out finally witnessed the collapse of the cupola in the year 558. While
rebuilding, the cupola was raised f urther and the diameter reduced in order to
decrease the exterior thrust and pressure. However this cupola too did not prove
perfect and collapsed partly in the 1Oth and 14th centuries.
Throughout its lifetime, the maintenance of the Haghia Sophia always cost the
rulers bt tne city vast sums and the poverty that prevailedrtowardsthe end of the
Byzantine Empire left the church virtually a ruin. Therefore, it was the conquest
of lstanbul by Turks under Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror and the eventual con'
version of the Haghia Sophia into a mosque that saved this beautif ul monument.
The most vital repairs were done in the 16th century.by Turkish architect Sinan
the Great who, among other things, added buttresses that have supported the
whole structure to this day. Also, major restoration work was done in the 19th
century by the Fosatti brothers, and on different occasions afterrl926byvarious
Turkish architects, who have also added an iron frame to the dome.
After serving for 916 years as a basicila and 477 years as a mosque to two religions
believing in the same God, the Haghia Sophia was converted into a museum upon
AtatUrk's orders. The mosaics that were uncovered during the 1930-1935 period
are among the most important works of art of the Byzantine era that have surviv"
ed to this day.
.;
Visit:

The entrance of the museum is the original portal that began to be used after
many centruies. Before entering, on can see the remnants of the second Haghia
Sopnia. Then comes the outer narthex which used to be the only iart of the church
where the unbaptized were admitted. This narthex is connected by five doors to
the interior narthex which in turn opens by nine doors to the nave. The higher
door at the middle was reserved for the entranee of the Emperor. The mosaic panel
above the middle door, made in the 9th century, depicts a kneeling emperor in-
terceding for mercy before Jesus Christ sitting on a throne. On the medallions
at its two sides are portraits of Virgin Mary and the Archangel Gabriel. The other
nonfigurative mosaics on the ceiling of the intericir narthex are originals from
the era of Justinian.
tJpon setting foot into the nave, the visitor cannot help being irnpressed by its
vasness and magnif icence. Especially the dome appearing to hang unsupported
29
from the sky, has the most striking effect. The walls are highly colourful with the
beautiful marble used to decorate them. The three different colour tones of the
mosaics on the dome indicate the three major repairs it has gone through in the
past. The dome of the Haghia Sophia, with is diameter and height, is among the
largest in the world. (As a result of numerous repairs, the central cupola no longer
has the shape of a perfect circle lts diameter is 31.87 m/ 104.5 ft in the North
- South and 30.87 niltOt.5 ft in the - East-West elevations. The height of its apex
is 55.60 m/182.5 ft from the f loor.)On the four pendentives supporting the dome
are the pictures of four angels with wings and covered faces. On the two sides
of the large (74.67 x 69.80 m1245 x 229 tll nave are two aisles that are normally
dark. The interior of the Haghia Sophia is illuminated naturally through windows
high on the walls. The building has 107 columns at the ground level and in the
galleries. The antique porphyry columns at the corners, the central columns made
of green broccia of Solonika and their white marble headings rich with carved
designs take the visitor back to ancient times. To enjoy a visit to the Haghia Sophia
 fully, one should try to imagine the place as the church or mosque it used to be
and feel the magnificently mystical air that inspired feelings of awe in believers.
During the period when the Haghia Sophia was the cathedral of a great and pro-
sperous empire, the chancel, the ivory altar and the ambones were veneered by
plaques of gold an silver and"ornamented with jewels. The sacred articles used
in rites were also made of precious metals and stones,and even some of the doors
were decorated with the same. All these items were looted an carried to Europe
during the invasion of the city in the course of the Fourth Crusade.
The large circular leather pendants ol 7.5 m diameter suspended f rom the walls
at the gallery level and the inscription inside the central cupola are reminders of
the fact that the building was also used as a mosque. The arabic inscriptions on
the pendants as well as the cupola, done in the 19th century by the greatest ar-
tists of that day, are among the best examples of all times of this branch of art.
The mihrab (prayer niche) and the mimber (pulpit) inside the apse of the church,
as well as the chanters' balcony are later additions. On the other hand, the square
shaped area marked by pieces of coloured marble just in front of the chanters
balcony was probably from the 12th century, marking the place where the emperors
were to stand while being crowned.
On the two sides of the nave stand two large urns. These urns are of antique origin
and were brought in from the ancient city of Pergamum during the late 16th cen-
tury.
At the northern corner of the nave stands the Perspiring Column surrounded at
the lower part by a bronze belt. The column has a finger-hole on its body and a
lot of myth going for it.
Of the buttresses that support the structure, the one at the north has a ramp in-
side which provides for easy ascent to the upper galleries. The magnificient view
of the nave is especially impressive f rom these galleries that surround the building
at three sides. During the days of the Byzantine Empire, parts of these galleries
were reserved for the ladies of the court and other parts were used for church
congregations. On'the wall of the northern gallery there is a single mosaic mural
while the wall of the southern gallery is adorned with other murals, each depic-
ting three holy personalities.
The large mosaic panel seen while leaving the museum through the interior nar-
thex is a work of art f rom the 10th century. The central figure in this panel with
a distorted perspective is the Virgin" Mary with ths infant Jesus on'her knees.
To her sides are Emperor Constantine the Great presenting them with the city
walls he has built and Emperor Justinian presenting them with the Haghia Sophia.
The colossal doors partly buried into the floor that are seen while exiting date
back to the 2nd century B.C. and were brought f rom Tarsus, probably f rom a pagan
temple there, and reused here.
ln the_courtyard of the museum are some structures of Turkish origin, built at
different times. These are tombs of Sultans, a school, a clock-setting house and
an ablution fountain. The minarets at the eastern side were added to the building
in the 1Sth century and those at the west in the 16th century.

32
Mosaic nural at the end of the southern
gallery: Virgin Mary and infant Jesus, 12th
century Emperor John ll Comenius, Em-
press lrene. At the sidewall of this mural,
the sick price Alexios is seen. The roll
presented represents donations lo the
church, and the leather bag represents
gifts of gold. The recial characteristics of
the Hungarian-born empress may be
observed clearly in the mural-

Second mural down the southern gallery:

Jesus Christ sitting at a throne, flanked
by Empress Zoe and Constantine
Monomachus, her third husband. Con'
stantine's head was added Iater than the
rest of the mural in place of the head of
Empress Zoe's first husband who was
originally featured in the composition. The
mural symbolizes the gratitude of the im-
perial family and their donations to the
church.

11th century mosaic mural above the in'

ner door of the museum exit: Virgin Mary
seated on a throne with the inf ant ,.iesus
in her arms. Emperor Constantine the
Great is at her left, presenting them with
a model representing the city and the
Emperor Justinian at the right, with a
model of the Haghia Sophia. The mural
pictures the Virgin Mary as the supreme
saint of the city. The background of this
mural with a distorted perspective is made
with gold-coated glass pieces, and the
throne on which the Virgin is sitting is of
silver-glazed glass pieces rarely used in
the murals of this period.
Jesus Christ, with his left hand holding the Holy Bible and his right hand raised
in benediction, is thecentralfigureof one of the mosaic murals of the southern
gallery. He is flanked by the Virgin Mary to the left and St. John the Babtist to
the right. This mural, badly damaged in the lower half, is the foremost among the
mosaics of Haghia Sophia in artistic value. lt may be admired comfortably during
any visit to the mu5eum since it receives sufficient daylight at every hour of the
day.
A masterpiece of Byzantine mosaic art, located on the wall of the southern gallery
and beautif ul under the naturallight falling in f rom the window to its side,this mural
section featuring three f igures is located at the center of the very wide "Last Judg-
ment" scene. The f igures in this section known as the "Deesis" are of Jesus Christ
in the middle, the Virgin Mary to his right and John the Baptist to his left. The
mosaic background composed of pieces mounted in varying patterns adds to the
overall effect of this mural, renowned also for the realistic expressions on the
faces.

The column capitals of the Haghia Sophia are the most typical 6th century Byzantine decorations
in the whote building. The deep-grooved marble shafts, a peculiarity of that era, create a beautif ul
interplay of shadow and light.
The period characteristic of the Byzantine column capitals is the merging of acan-
thus leaves with volutes. Some of these adorn the imperial monogram. The most
famous columns in the building are the eight porphyry columns brought in f rom
the temple of Helios at Baalbek, standing in pairs at the four corners of the nave.
Decorative bronze door of the Library. Imperid Pew

$ad trvan (the foun tain)

 ;+"i;:"ir
nt.
i;:.:.r e

THE BASILICA CISTERN

One major problem of the peninsula on which lstanbul is located is the shortage
of water. Consequently, all the rulers of the city have been faced with the task
of providing tlre inhabitants with a suff icient and constant supply of water. The
aqueducts that were built during both the Roman and the Ottoman reigns for this
purpose still stand today. Part of the water brought in through these was
distributed for immediate usage and the rest was stored for arid seasons in
underground cisterns and open reservoirs that may be seen in various parts of
the city. The most prominent of these depots is the Basilica Cistern (or by its
Turkish name, "Yerebatan Sarayt").
Entrance to the Basilica Cistern is through a small shack at the western corner
of the Haghia Sophia Square. This cistern which was built in the 6th century upon
orders of Emperor Justinian served the city for many centuries. Even today, one
may see an accumulation of clear water more than one meter in depth. ln the 70
x 140 m cistern there are 336 columns, some with Corinthian capitals, supporting
the ceiling. Arranged in 12 rows of 28 each, these columns joined by brick arches
and their ref lections in the still water add up to a fascinating sight for every visitor.

38
 t{,{
\/

Statue of aYoung Athlete found at

Head of goddess Athena.
Roman copy of a 5 th century
B.C. masterpiece originating
from old city of Ephesus.
Tralles (today, the Province of
Aydrn). This fline statue, Placed
within the reign of Augustus (27
B.C - A.D.14), is sculpted from high
quality marble. Bust of Alexander the Great.
Originating from old City of
Pergamon in the 2nd century
B.C.

THE ISTANBUL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUESUM

ln 1876, a few decades after the foundation of the first ofticial museum of lstan-
bul at the church of Aya lrini, the Qinili K69k (the Lodge with Ceramics), which
was the first building of the Topkapr Palace, was established as the lmperial
Museum. The Qinili K6gk soon proved insuff icient for exhibiting the many collec-
tions of ancient art that kept growing rapidly, and the present museum was built
in three stages between 1891 and 1908. The exterior of the museum building was
designed in the general style of the two most important pieces of art it houses,
namely the Alexander Sarcophagus and the Sarcophagus of Mourning Women.
Today, the lstanbul Archaeological Museum iS among the most prominent
museums of the world. The Ancient Near East Art section located in the cour-
tyard of the Museum has in display many pieces discovered during excavations
in Mesopotamia, Egypt and Anatolia and in the Qinili Kdgk Turkish ceramics and
china of different periods are exhibited. The Museum features in it's main halls
an extremely rich collection of Greek-Roman-Byzantine sculpture,ceramics, coins
and stone tablets. ln addition,some inscriptions mentioned in the Bible (the Pen'
tateuch) as well as the only remaining samples of the treasures of Troy and the
monumental sarcophagi f rom the Royal Necropolis at Sidon are among the gems
of the collection.

39
THE ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS: The Alexander Sarcophagus is the most
famous of the sarcophagi discovered in 1887 by the painter-archaeologist Osman
Hamdi Bey, then the director of the Museum, in the course of the excavations
he had conducted personally at the Royal Necropolis of Sidon.Contrary to popular
belief ,this Sarcophagus wasnot madeforAlexander the Great but was decorated
with scenes depicting him. Archaeologists contend that this masterpiece was
sculpted during the last quarter of the 4th century B.C.
On the sides of the'Alexander Sarcophagus which itself is shaped along the lines
of an lonic temple, a battle between the Macedonian and Persian armies and a
lion hunt are pictured realistically in high reliefs. The battle scene is one the long
side at f ront and the lion hunt scene, again featuring Macedonian and Persian
soldiers, is on the long side at the back. The lifelike quality of the f igures on the
sarcophagus is accentuated by the vivid colours used to paint them (a
characteristic common to all the sarcophagi displayed in the same hall of the
Museum).
Many prominent archaeologists consider the Alexander Sarcophagus to be one
of the most important creations of antiquity ever to be excavated. lt may well be
said that this work of art inspired the construction of the museum it now graces.
THE SARCOPHAGUS OF MOURNING WOMEN: The Sarcophagus of Mourning
Women, another magnificent work of art, was also discovered at the Royal
Necropolis of Sidon along with the other sarcophagi displayed in the same hall.
It is believed to date back to about 350 8.C., and has the outlook of a classical
lonic temple. Between the columns supporting the roof of the temple there are
1B f igures of women in mourning, each with a different f acial expression and poise
of the body that tell of a woman's love and devotion to her man, and of her grief .

A funeral is depicted on the sides of the lid, and the pedestal is decorated with
reliefs of hunting scenes.

The Museum of Decorated Tiles An exterior view of the Archaeological Museum

 Map of Turkish - Ottoman Empire: 1299-1922.

oTTOMAN EMPTRE (',t299 - 19221

Turks were originally habitants of Central Asia f rom where they moved to various
parts of Asia and Europe in migration or on military expeditions. lnitially nomadic
tribes, they began to change their lifestyles by the 7th century to establish settled
civilizations. The most important and long-lived of these is the Ottoman state
which mushroomed f rom a small principality in Anatolia to an empire that extended
over three continents and lasted for more than six hundred years.
Turks were able to rule the lands they conquered with eff iciency over long periods,
owing to their great tradition and experience of government. They provided social
justice and a peacef ul life to their subjects regardless of religion and race. The
history of a lar:ge part of theworld from the Arabian Peninsulato Russia, from
Persia to the Balkans, Greece and the part of Europe east of Vienna for about
four hundred years is marked by Ottoman presence.
From the 19th century on, people underOttoman rule began to revolt underex-
ternal inf luences and encouragement, and consequently the empire was weakened
f rom the inside. The defeat of the Ottoman Empire in World War I along with its
allies was merely a last straw that triggered the series of events which led to the
end of the Empire. Revolting in turn against theWorldWar lvictors'determination.
to split Anatolia among themselves, Kemal Atattirk guided the Turkish nation in-
to a war of independence and on to victory, and in 1923 founded the modern
Republic of Turkey on the ruins ol the Ottoman Empire.

4,L
 THE TOPKAPI PALACE

The oldest and the largest of the remaining palaces in the world is the Topkapr
Palace, a museum since 1924. The palace is located where the acropolis of Byzan-
tium once stood on the peninsula overlooking the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus
and the Sea of Marmara. The palace complex is 700,000 sq m in area, surrounded
by five kilometres of walls.
The Topkapt Palace is the second palace built by Turks in lstanbul.After young
Sultan Mehmet ll conquered the city in 1453 he had his first palace built at the
site where the lstanbul University stands today. Soon afterward he ordered a new
palace and in 1479, after 14 years of work,the Topkapr Palace(initiallycalled the
New Palace) was ready for occupancy as the Sultan's residence and centre of
government
The Topkapt Palace is typical of Turkish palaces. The distinctive element of its
plan is a series of open courtyards with trees in all of them to provide shade. All
the courtyards are for different functions and are connected with one another by
monumental doors. Functional buildings are arranged at the sides of courtyards.
The palace plan today is not the some as when it was built, since many Sultans
succeeding Mehmet the Conqueror have made additions and annexes.
A Bird's-Eye View of the Topkapr Palace: To the left of the second and third inner
courts iles the spacious Harem quarters. The chimneys to the right of the second
court belong to the palace kitchen. At the far-right corner of the third coiner of
the third court is the Sultan's treasury.
 ln 1853 when the new and ostentatious Dolmabahge palace was completed, the
Topkapt Palace lost its status as the official palace and fell into oblivion. lt was
only after the Rebuplic was founded that the Topkapt Palace was recalled, and
cared for. The repair work that went on for more than fifty years finallyrestored
the Topkapr Palace to its original inconspicuous beauty. Today it is used as a
museum to exhibit works of art and many priceless artifacts, a museum with few
rivals anywhere.
The functions of the Topkapt Palace while it was used as the off icial palace of
Ottoman Sultans were quite different from those of most other palaces. Although
it was primarily the residence of the incumbent sultan, it also served as the head-
quarters of the government where the cabinet of ministers met. lt also housed
the state mint and archives, as well as the highest institution of education of the
realm, the university of the sultan and the state. ln other words,the palace was
virtually the heart, the brain, the very centre of the Ottoman Ernpire in all senses.
It was long after the construction of the palace that the Harem quarters were added
to it. The Ottoman Empire was the I'argest and longest-lived of the sixteen
sovereign empires Turks have founded at various times. The giant empire that
lasted tor 622 years kept many countries by the shores of the Mediterranean and
the Black Sea under its benevolent reign, merging many peoples of different races
and religions. The only other empire in history ever to have kept such a vast realm
for such a long time is the Roman Empire. During the course of the ottoman Em-
pire, 36 sultans came to the throne, and those reigning f rom the 16th century on-
wards also bore the title of Caliph, the religious head of lslam.
Life within the Topkapt Palace started at dawn and continued throughout the day
with ceremony and strict rules of protocol governing every possible situation and

Topkapt Palace Museum: This, the second gate of the Palace,is the entrance to the Museum
event. Everybody was obliged to abide by the customs and tradition of the Palace
that had developed over centuries. Even during the decline of the Empire, such
rules never slackened. The protocol rules of the western world were highly in-
fluenced by those dominant in the Topkapt Palace'
The seashore kiosks and pavillions of the Topkapr Palace were destroyed by the
end of the 19th century.

Visiting the Palace:

The First Court

The f irst and outermost court of the TopkaprPalace is entered through the Bab-t
HUmayun (lmperial Gate). The monumental fountain outside the gate is a precious
e*ample of 18th century Turkish art. Surrounding the first court are the paiace
bakery, mint, palace guard quarters and stores for f irewood. At the terraces below
*ere fhe vegetable glrdens that supplied the palace. Qinili K69k (The Lodge with
tiles), the first building built in the Topkapt Palace complex, is also inside this
coult. lmmediately upon entering the court, one sees the Aya lrini; a Byzantine
church-turned-museum dating back to the 6th century.

Exterior of Aya lrini Church

 The Second Court

The actual entrance to the Topkapr Palace Museum is the second gate called Bab-r
Selam (Gate of Salutation), through which one enters the second court that is
allocated for the administrative functions of the state. To this court, where only
the Sultan could enter on horseback, citizens in pursuit of some official matter
and representatives of the Janissaries on paydays would be admitted. Certain state
ceremonies would be held here. Historians have noted that during such
ceremonies whichicould be attended by as many as f ive or even ten thousand
people, an absolute silence prevailed. For ceremonies the Sultan himself would
attend, the imperial throne would be placed in f ront of the gate at the other end
of the court and all those present would stand facing him with their hands tied
in front of them in a gesture of reverence. To the left of the court was the ad-
ministrative section where the cabinet would meet. The only tower in the palace
grounds is called the Tower of Justice because justice in the name of the state
was dispensed f rom these quarters. The tower could be used to watch the whole
city and the port, and the only entrance to it is through the Harem.

Justice Tower

46
 ,*.liilii;,!.11

"Suttan Selim lll Accepting Felicitations on the Occasion of a Religious Holiday". ln this oil painting'
the Sultan's throne is in f ront of the Bebti's-sa'Ade (Gate of Felicity). Members of the Sultan's
"eun
court and the prominent personatities of the Empire in typical attire of the period stand before the
monarch ii total reverence and in strict adherence to patace protocot. Throughout the history of the
patace, the Suttans were always seated a the same spot during off icial ceremonies held in the palace,
including the presentation of the standard to armies.

The Harem

The Harem section of the Topkapl Palace is mad'e up of about 400 rooms scat-
tered around small inner courts. Throughout the history of the palace, the Harem
quarters underwent alterations continuously. lt was the private part of the Sultan's
residence where his mother, brothers an Sisters, wives, children and other
members of the family, as well as the servants and eunuchs lived. Throughout
the centuries, many stories have been told about these private quarters of the
palace, entrance to which was strictly prohibited for outsiders. However, some
of these must be regarded as myth, and the information backed by evidence points
to a way of life in the Harem not as eccentric as people have been led to believe,
but nevertheless interesting.
4l
 f*

An exterior view ol the Harem.

The Harem: the Hall with a Hearth.

ffi
eX{'l,j*;l

"fiH+*.
The concubines (cariye) to serve the Sultan and his family were hand-picked f rom
the most beautiful and healthy young maidens of various races or were given to
the Sultan as gifts. These girls, who were admitted to the Harem at an age barely
out of childhood, were trained for years under the strictest discipline. After becom-
ing perfectly familiar with the rules and customs of the palace, they were graded
into certain classes on the basis of their abilities,'and only the best were allowed
to serve the Sultan. Some of these girls were aOte to atract the attention of the
Sultan and hence his favours, and occasionally even to become wives. ln the Ot-
toman Empire there was no status as an Empress.The power to run the Harem
was vested in the Sultan's mother. ln this setting of wealth and splendor, gossip,
rivalry and struggle to get closer to the Sultan were parts of daily life. When a
Sultan died or was made to abdicate and a new one assumed the throne, the harem
of the former would be moved to some other palace. During the reign of a Sultan
with a weak personality and little authority, the Harem would often emerge aS
a political power and indulge in power-play and intrigue.
Today, only a part of the Harem section is open aS a museum. While touring these
empt rooms and the gloomy corridors, the visitor needs to work his imagination
exhaustively to visualize the Harem as it was in its heyday.

lnterior of the lmperial Hall.fiankAr Sof ast)

 The Kitchen and the Porcelains Section

To the right side of the second court one can see the palace kitchen with its twenty
tall chimneys. ln the days when the palace was living, more than 1000 assistant
cooks worked in the kitchen; preparing the menus for the different parts of the
palace. Today, a part of the kitchen is unchanged in its original stade, and the
rest is a beautif ul muesum of porcelains and china. About 2500 of the 12 000-plus
pieces of chinaware of Chinese and Japanese origin in the palace collection is
in display here. Furthermore, selected pieces of porcelains and glassware made
in lstanbul are exhibited in a chronological arrangement. Recently this section
of the Topkapr Palace Museum has been rearranged to include also European
porcelains and silverware f rom the palace collection.

The Kitchens. A view of the interior of the Helvahane

i.'.:::*,&

Itl
A blue-white Chinesse vase. Example of Japanese Porcelain

Example of Chinese porcelains

A bowl with a lid, product of Ytldtz. The Gate of Silver model of the Fountain of Ahmet lll.
Solutation of the Topkapt Palace is depicted presented to AbdIlhamit on the 25th anniver-
on it. sary of his reign.
 The Third Court

The entrance to the third court of the Topkapr Palace, the private court of the
sultans, is through a gate called BAbu's-sa'ade (Gate of Felicity). Nobody without
special permission could pass through that gate, and those with permission were
admitted, only in the company of white eunuchs, to the Sultan's private court.
Surrounding this court were the Palace University, the throne chamber, the Sultan's
treasury and the sahcturary of l-toly lslamic relics. The Sultan would meet the am-
bassadors of foreign countries and the high officials'of his government in the
throne chamber that is located directly opposite the gate to the court. The ser-
vants to the throne chamber were specially picked f rom deaf-mutes for obvious
security reasons. Also, some off icers of the ottoman Army who were also promi-
nent faculty members of the palace school performed part of the services to the
Sultan.
The Library of Ahmet lll located at the center of the court is a perfect example
of the blend of the baroque style with Turkish architecture.
A school in the Sultan's private courtyard trained candidates for positions of
responsibility in government. The graduates of this school would then serve loyally
and usually successfully in the administration and organization of the vast em-
pire.Most of the Viziers and Grand Viziers of the government came f rom this school.

Audience Hall.
 ilt.
Library of Ahmet lll. ,!;,rl7r,i,r.",, in front of the Librarv or

The lmperial Costumes Section

There is no exhibition in the world that may compare to the lmperial Costumes
Section of the Topkapr Palace Museum. The costumes made of fabric woven on
the palace looms and ornamented with gold and silver braids have been carefully
preserved since the 15th century and are in excess of 2,500 in number. Also ex-
hibited in the same section are silk prayer rugs, masterpieces of Turkish art, that
were used by the Sultans.

A sultan's caftan made of kemha. A sultan's caftan A sultan's caftan

Sultan Mehmet Il the Conqueror, seen at the overleaf in a detail from a niature, with his superior in-
telligence and skitt led the Ottoman army to many victories inctuding the tong-awaited conquest ot 1
lstanbul in 1453, thus starting a new era. lt was during the reign of Mehmet ll that the Ottoman State
blossomed into an Empire.

53
 The Treasury

The Treasury section of the Topkapr Palace Museum is the richest collection of
its kind in the world.Allthe piecesexhibited inthefour halls are authentic originals.
Masterpieces of Turkish craftsmen from different centuries and priceless crea-
tions fromthe Far East,lndiaand Europe fascinate visitors. ln each of the four
rooms there is an imperial throne used in a different period of the empire.
Ceremonial attire and accessories, weaponry, narghiles,Turkish coffee cups,and
other vessels adorned with gold and pericious stones are the main items in the
f irst rOOm. The seCOnd roOm iS knOwn as the "emerald rOOm", and houSeS aigret-
tes, pendentives, and hangers decorated with emeralds and other precious stones.
Huge uncut emeralds weighing a few kilograms each and the Topkapt dagger with
foui large emeralds on the handle and embellished in diamonds that has become
the symbol of the palace may be seen in this room. ln the third room, enamelled
pieces, medals and decorations given to the Sultans by foreign countries, the twin
solid gold candelabrums each weighing 48 kilograms, and the most renowned
throne in the palace the golden throne used on the coronation day of the Sultan-
are displayed. Connecting the third an fourth rooms is a balcony which offers a
magnificient view of the entrance of the Bosphorus and the Asiatic coast. The
fourth room contains the grand throne of Turko-lndian origin and many pieces

A ceremonial canteen. (16th century)

adorned with precious stones which fascinate every visitor. ln addition to the four
rooms, there is also a very rich collection of watches, and table and wall clocks
in a room by the third court opposite the treasury.
The Holy Relics of lslam, which used to belong to the prophet Mohammed are
kept and exhibited in a special sanctuary by the third court, and in an adjoining
hall a collection illustrating the consummate skill of Turkish calligraphers is ei-
hibited.

A jeweled ceremonial helmet. (17th century)

THE TOPKAPI DAGGER: This daggerthat has become a symbol of the palace and
the treasury is an invaluable product of lBth century Turkish craftsmanship. There
are four large emeralds on the hilt, the one at the top concealing a watch.
THE KA$lKQl DIAMoND: The pear-shaped 86-carat Kagrkgr Diamond is among
the largest in the world. lts origin is not certainly known. Legend attributes its
name (the spoonmaker's -or spoonseller's Diamond) to its sale by a pauper who
was unaware of its value to a merchant in return for a few wooden spoons.
However, the consensus of the experts is that the Kagrkgr Diamond is in fact the
"Pigot" Diamond named after an off icer of the French army who is known to have
bought a diamond of similar dimensions and shape in lndia in 1774. The Pigot
Diamond could be traced, after numerous owners, to Napoleon Bonaparte's mother
and then to an Ottoman governor. Since the Kagrkgr Diamond was transferred to
the ottoman treasury among the treasure of governorTepedelenli Ali paga, who
was executed in the 1840's after conviction for rebellion against the sta1e, it is
highly probable that the Kagrkqr and Pigot diamonds are the same.
The beautif ul, specially cut Kagrkgr Diamond is surrounded by 49 smaller pieces
of diamond embedded in gold in two rows.
THE THRONE:This throne, made and presented to Sultan Mahmut I during the
18th century, is a masterpiece of Turko-lndian art. lt is actually a portable throne
dismountable into 223 pieces. The most outstanding feature of the throne, even
surpassing the multitude of emeralds, rubies and pearls used to form the motifs
of spring flowers, is the excellence of the gold inlay and enamel work rated by
some as the ultimate in these techniques.
Now the largest item being exhibited in the fourth room of the Topkapt Palace
Treasury, the throne has a footstool and a beautifully embroidered cushion as
accessories.

An imperial aigrette Enamefed and diamond studded dagger.

 The Holy Relics of lslam

The Holy Relics of lslam brouht from Egypt early in the 16th century after the
capture of that land by the Ottoman Empire have since then been kept inside
a sanctuary in the TopkApr Palace.
The conquest of Egypt had passed the title of Caliph to the Ottoman Sultans, thus
increasing the powerof the Ottoman throne. The Holy Relics that served in part
as the symbols of'such power include some personal articles and garments of
the Prophet Mohammed, one of the oldest manuscript copies of the Koran and
the keys to the Kaaba. Apart f rom their religious significance, all these items also
are prominent as works of art.

Islamic Relics : Exterior view inside the 3rd courtyard.

lslamic Retics Entrance Room: Walls are decorated with'liles of 'various ages'

A lock from the Kaaba.

 Prophet.
Footprint of the Prophet A golden case for the sacred Btack Stone.

The inner room contains the mantle and swords of the prophet Mohammed. The retics of
this room, to which there is no public entrance, may be viewed throuh a window.
 The Fourth Court

Corridors connect the third court to the fourth which contains mainly pavilions
surrounded by gardens. The only wooden pavilion in the palace, the Baghdad and
Revan Kioks and f inally the Mecidiye Kiosk, the last structure added to the Topkapt
Palace, are inside this court. The terrace by the Baghdad Kiosk is the best place
to enjay the magnif,icent panorama of the Golden Horn and across it, the Galata
Section of the city, as well as the unique skyline of lstanbul with its domes and
minarets.

The pool in front of the Baghdad Pavilion and in the background is

the Sannet Pavilion.

The Pavilion of Mustafa Pasha.

The Baghdad Pavilion.

' The Mecidiye Pavilion.

63
lnterior of the Baghdad Pavilion

The fountain in Murat lll's room.

Exterior of Kariye Museum.(Chora)

THE KARIYE MUSEUM

The original meaning of the word "chora" is rural area. This word, once given as
a name to a small church outside the metropolis of lstanbul before the city walls
of the Roman era were built in the Sth century, came to be the name of other chur-
ches built at the same spot afterwards. The last of these churches that still stands
today is believed to date back to the period between the 11th and the 14th cen-
turies. Although the exterior is of no particular importance, the mosaics and
f rescoes of the interior are masterpieces that are regarded as the heralds of the
renaissance of Byzantine art. Allthese and the parts annexed to the building during
the 14th century were made upon the will of Theodore Methokides, a bias of his
age. Along the two corridors by the entrance, the lives of the Virgin Mary and Jesus
Christ are depicted in mosaics in the chronological orderof events cited in the
Bible.lnside the chapel annexed to the side, other religious subjects including
the pictures of the outstanding personalities of the court are worked in f rescoes.
The mosaics and f rescoes that were covered with plaster during the process of
converting the church into a mosque at the beginning of the 16th century were
later brought to light as a result of the efforts of the American lstitute of Byzan-
tine Studies.
Although its site was considered to be remote at the outset, the expansion of
the city over time and the erection of imperial palaces in the neighbourhood caused
the Church and Monastery of Kariye to become one of the important places of
worship in the city. As a result of this, the decoration of the interiorof the pre-
sent church was done lavishly and with great care by the masters of Byzantine
art of the 14th century.
65
 ln this largest mural panel of the church, Jesus Christ and Virgin Mary are pictured side by side.The
two f igures of a man and a women lower down the panel are members of the imperial family.

66
"Dormition." The death scene of Virgin Mary, pictured on the large mosaic panel above the entrance
of the nave.The central figure in this composition isolated from the others,ls Jesus Christ, and the
baby in his arms symbolizes the spirit of the Virgin Mary. The figures surrounding them are the apostles
and bishops.
tr:i,&1t!!-lt+

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 + Mosaics on the inside of the cupola at the f ar right of the inner narthex. At the center is Jesus Christ,
and surrounding him inside the slices of the crrcle are the outstanding personalities of his geneology.
(p. 68-69)

As a general rule of Byzantine art, the nativity of Jesus Christ is depicted in f ront
of a cave, ln this mosaic mural, the newborn baby is beside the Virgin Mary, the
central f igure. A ray of light f rom the sky and the herald angels surround the mothre
and the baby. To the right are the shepherds and to the left is another scene in
which the baby is prepared for his f irst bath. The sitting figure in a pose of con-
templation is St. Joseph.

70 *
i
 THE SULEYMANiYE MOSOUE

A tectonic beauty outstanding even among all those domes and minarets that
define the skyline of lstanbul,the SUleymaniye Mosque,is the largest and most
grandiose in the city. lt facinates every visitors with the aesthetic supremancy
of its interior and exterior, and its harmonious and pleasant proportions. By all
standardS, the SUleymaniye Mosque is an architectural masterpiece.
ln the 16th century'the Ottoman Empire was at its peak. And the zenith of the
century is the forty-seven year reign (the longest ever in '-he Ottoman Empire) of
Sultan SUleyman the Magnif icient. The great Sultan had recruited the famous
Turkish architect Sinan to plan and build a mosque bearing his own name. Sinan,
a genius of the world of architecture and the founder/benefactor of the Turkish
classical school of architecture, completed the huge mosque complex that also
included schools, a library, a Turkish bath, a public kitchen, a caravanserai, a
hospital and shops. lt was built between the years 1550 and 1557, thus proving
that he indeed deserved the suffix of "Great" that was granted him.
One has to stand at a distance to be able take in the exterior beauty of the
SUleymaniye Mosque f ully. The best site for this is the Galata coast of the Golden
Horn, especially the Galata Tower. The nave of the four-minaret royal mosque is
covered by a huge dome. The main entrance to the mosque is reached by pass-
ing through an inner courtyard with a symbolic ablution fountain at the center
and porticoes at all the four sides. The spaciousness and unity of the nave of the
mosque and the rather subtle decoration of the interior walls all contribute to an
aura of dignif ied grandeur. The central cupola of 53 m.heigh{ at the keystone and
a 26.50 m. diameter is supported.by four pendentlves on four pil*ars. AHthe ar-
ii
chitectural elements constituting the dome are in proper harmony with one
another. The static balance too is perfect. The numerous earthquakes that shook
the city of lstanbul since the 16th century did not cause even a single crack. The
inner surface of the dome was decorated with baroque painting from the 19th cen-
tury.The handmade carpet with a mihrab design on the f loor of the nave is new,
having been given to the mosque in the 1960's. The most eye-catching element
of the interior decor is the original stained-glass windows of Turkish motifs on
the wall of the mihrab (prayer niche). The incospicuous little chanter's balcony
is at the front of pulpit.Thewalls around the minber(pulpit) nearthe mihrab are
decorated with beautiful ceramic tiles. The Sultan's box is to the left of the mihrab.
The walls of the mosque adorned with verses from the Koran are regarded as
ultimate in the Turkish art of calligraphy. Along the walls of the mosque with the
exception of the southern wall, there are balconies for women. The brass grill to
the right of the entrance is a typical example of 18th century craftsmanship. ln
the forecourt of the mosque, the tombs of sultan suleyman and Roxelana, his
favourite wife, lie side by side. And at one corner of the Suleymaniye Complex,
there is a small andihumble grave where rests Sinan the Great,the grahdmaster
of Turkish architecture who spent fifty years of his ninety-nine year life as the
chief architect of a powerful empire.
Moslems practice prayer f ive times a day. The noon prayer on Fridays, the morn-
ing prayer on the f irst days of the two religious holidays each year, the f inal prayer

lnterior view of SIleymaniye Mosque

Dome of the Slleymaniye Mosque.

of each day of the Holy month of Ramadan and finally, funeral prayers must take
place in a mosque, while the other prayer may be done at home or any suitable
place. The call to prayer is ezan, chanted f rom mi4aret balconies at the particular
hours of the day. Each believer goes through aflution before prayer. lf the
cleanliness thus gained is not lost as a result of certainpractices,the ablution
is valid throughout the day, and if it is lost one may have to repeat it up to f ive
times a day. The ablution process involves washing the face, arms, hand and feet
in a prescribed way. ln the mosque, the mass of believeres go through the ritual
of prayer under the leadership of the imam occupying the Mihrab. While praying,
all Moslems face the direction of the Kaaba, and consequently the axes of all mos-
ques in the world extend in the direction of Mecca.
IJ
 THE COVERED BAZAAR (THE GRAND BAZAAR)

The oldest and-largest covered marketplace in the world is in lstanbul at the center
of the old city. A giant labyrinth with about sixty streets and more than 3 thou-
sand shops, the Covered Bazaar is a unique sight every visitor to lstanbul must
see. The huge complex resembling a town under a roof grew to its present size
over a long period of time. The 1Sth century bazaat, a structure of two parts with
thick walls and a series of domes, was gradually expanded in the following cen-
turies by roofing-in the adjoining streets, thus forming the peculiar oriental
marketplace.
ln the past, the Covered Bazaar was the business and crafts centre of the city
of lstanbul where members of different guilds clustered around certain streets.
These guilds by tradition, had very strict rules and ethics governing business prac-
tice. Such rules dictated, for example, that lodge mernbers be totaly allert with
regard to quality of merchandise they produced and sold, and forbade them to
pass any defective items to the customer knowingly. All sorts of valuable fabrics,
jewellery, weapons, and antiques were sold by merchants from families which
for generations dealt in the same trade. The trust so generated in the public would
even lead some customers to deposit their savings with the traCesmen of the
Covered Bazaar, solely on their word of honour, to be used in business for prof it,
the way one buys stock shares today. The Covered Bazaar of lstanbul was badly
damaged during the earthquake towards the end of the 19th century and by a
number of big f ires afterwards, and although the structures were restored to what
they had been, other characteristics of the Bazaar could not be. Consequently,
the Covered Bazaar lost its status as the major business centre of lstanbul and
continued its existence during the last decades as a large and nostalgic
marketplace, appealing especially to those inderested in Turkish handicrafts.
The world's oldest and largest covered bazaar is in lstanbul. Some of the domes and roof s o the bazaar
are visible at lower right.
A view of one the Bazaar's many streets'

The change in the identity of the Covered Bazaar is evidenced by the changes
in its streets. Nowadays, almost every street is a conglomerate of shops dealing
in the trade of different goods, and the street names like Yorganctlar (Quilt makers),
Terlikgiler (Slipper makers) and Fesgiler (Fez makers) have come to be street names
only. The couple of exceptions to this are the main street of the Covered Bazaar
where there is a clustering of jewellers and one of the streets opening to it, oc-
cupied entirely by goldsmiths. Another change is that the shops in the Covered
Bazaar today, many of them small, do not offer fixed or definite prices to
customers, and a sale is made at the true worth of an item only if the buyer
is good at bargaining. A chance to bargain over the price of an item -something
new for many foreigners- and the sheer quantity of the works of Turkish artisans
disypayed in the shops do appeal to some visitrrs but the majority prefer to spend
their money and limited shopping time more eff iciently. This has led during the
1970's to the emergence of large, modern stores near the main entrance of the
Bazaar. Today, the Covered Bazaar is more of a tourist attraction with its roman'
tic historical outlook, its lively atmosphere unique with shopkeepers personally
and adamantly inviting passers-by into their shops, its continuous hum and the
f low of people through its streets. More serious shopping forTurkish carpets and
jewellery as well as handicrafts such as silver, cooper, brass and bronze gift items,
ceramics, onyx, leatherware and other souvenirs is often done at the new stores
which adhere to contemporary business standards to the point of providing cer-
tif lcates of quality and origin for theirwares, and offering delivery guarardeed ship-
ment to any address abroad.
75
 HANDMADE TURKISH CARPETS

Handmade knotted carpets have

developed through the centuries as a
characteristic handicraft of the Turkish
nation. The two richest antique carpet
museums of the world are in lstanbul.
Presently, carpets are made in every
region of Turkey in accordance with tradi-
tional methods. Carpets made with pure
wool, wool and cotton or pure silk yarns
of various regions from collections of
rich variety.
Skilled workmanship, quality raw
material, deep rooted traditions, special
techniques, patience and months of
labour lie at the root of the reputation
which Turkish handmade carpets enjoy
world over. ln many villages, caipets bear-
ing the regional characteristics are pro-
duced at numerous home looms. Also, in
many centers rug weaving has developed
into an industry with the support of the
state. The town of Hereke near lstanbul
is the best known handmade silk carpet
: . i: l: , l
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Hereke as well as those produced in large
quantities in the cities of Kayseri and
World famous, pure silk Hereke carpets are made Konya are much in demand the world
in various sizes pariticular designs. over.

Skilled hands weave with patience

carpets consisting of hunderds of
thousands of knots.

16
 SHOPPING IN ISTANBUL

The Grand Bazaar of lstanbul with its thousandsof shops isa famousand unique
shopping centre. BAZAAR 54, the leading establishmentof the Grand Bazaar,of-
fers f ully washed top quality handmade carpets selected by experts. The old and
new carpet collection of BAZAAR 54 containing thousands of items of top quali-
ty Turkish workmanship, are lstanbul's largest and richest.

tsAZAAR 54 is an authoriz-
ed exporter with worldwide
shipping service. Next to
carpets, its handmade, ful-
ly quaranted jewellry col-
lection is also worth
seeing. Outstanding
samples of Turkish
souveniers as well as quali-
ty leather and suede aP-
parel with bargain prices
are also offered in Bazaar
54.

11
 Traditional Turkish hand-
made jewellery has a well-
deserved reputation satif y-
ing both modern and old-
fashioned tastes.

BAZAAR 54 Jewellery Department.

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 THE GOLDEN HORN AND THE GALATA BRIDGE

Along with other geographical advantages, one of the most important factors that
encouraged the selection of the old city peninsula centuries ago is the existence
of a natural, well-protected harbour by it. The slender 8-kilometer gulf called the
Golden Horn with two small creeks at its apex separates the peninsula f rom the
Galata section of the city. A perfect harbour with no currents or tide, the gulf us-
ed to be called the"Horn of Prosperity" because of the fertile lands by its shores,
the variety and abundance of {ish in its waters, and the sources of sweet water
around it. Although contamination has become a very serious problem during re-
cent decades, many effective measures to salvage the gulf have begun to be en-
forced in the last few years, and it is hoped that the Golden Horn will gradually
return to its orginal state.
There are three birdges crossing the Golden Horn, the outermost two of which
are f loating bridges with gates. The Galata Bridge and its environs near the en-
trance of the gulf the oldest of the three constitute the most lively part of
the city. The
-
passenger
-
boats shuttling to many points on the Asian side of the
city and on the two coasts of the Bosphorus depart f rom piers here. The Galata
Bridge is also an ideal spot for enjoying the panorama of the old city. During work-
ing hours each day, tens of thousands of people cross the Golden Horn on foot
via this bridge.
There are many places of historical importance on the shores of the Golden Horn.
The Patriarchate of the Eastern Orthodox Church has been here a very long time.
Also the tomb of EyUb Sultan, the standard-bearer of the Prophet Mohammed who
diedduring a 7th century Arab siege of lstanbul, is located at the part of the city
narned after him and is a religious shrine for Moslems.
80
Ey1p Et Ansari was the f riend and the standard-bearer of Prophet Mohammed. Historical sources state
tiai ne died during the besieging of Constantinople by Arabs in the 7th Century and was inhumed
in a place where alomb has beei erected later on. Following the conquest of lstanbul, in 1459' Sultan
Mehmed the conqueror let the first mosque of the city built on thes holy site-
The mosque is surrounded by medresses (the otogical schools), restaurants, Turkish baths and
graveyardis. The tomb of Eytp Et Ansari is a hoty site frequently visited by Moslems'
lne ictuat mosque has bien built in conformity with the plans of the original mosque which was
demolished in the l*th Century and on the same spot. The surroundings as well as the
yard of the
mosque is always full of visitors'
 LEANDER'S TOWER

Seated on a rock about a hundred meters f rom the shore at the entrance of the
Bosphorus, this f ine little building is one of the symbols of lstanbul. lt is known
to have been used throughout history as a watch tower, signal tower and
liglrt,house:,.Although the tower is known as the Tower of Leanderin association
with the legend of Leander who drowned while trying to swim across a strait to
reach his sweetheart Hera, this is a mistake, for the waterway described in the
classical legend is actually the Strait of Dardanelles.

THE BEYLERBEY| PALACE

The Beylerbeyi Palace is one of the mansions built during the 19th century on
the shores of the Bosphorus under the inf luence of Western architecture. The
rich and pompousexteriorof the palacecomplementsthe extravagantly decorated
interior. The Beylerbeyi Palace used to be assigned to the accommodation of
foreign potentates who visited lstanbul. Today, the palace still retains its orginal
outlook and is being kept open as a museum.
 BEYLERBEYi

The town center of lstanbul as well as

the historical monuments, leading
hotels, market places and off icial
departments are located in the Euro'
pean side of the city. On the other
hand, one third of the population lives
in the Asian side of lstanbul. A
magnif icient view of the city can be en-
joyed from the modern BosPhorus
Bridge which connects both sides.
Next to modern residential quarters of
the Asian side, there are small and
charming historical sites along the
Bosphorus, which were seParate
towns until recently, but are parts of
metropalitan city today.
The Beylerbeyi coast is one of the
most visited places in lstanbul with its
magnificent Palace of 19th century,
beautiful mosque, typical waterfront
villas, houses and shoPPing oPPor-
tunities. lt is an important stopover
place for visitors crossing the bridge
from Europe to Asia and for cruises
made along the Bosphorus.
Villa Bosphorus
The Bosphorus Bridge,a1074 m long suspension bridge, is the only one of its
kind joining two continents. lt is the second longest bridge in Europe and fifth
longest in the world. The bridge is 64 m above sea level at its highest point, allow-
ing safe passage even to the largest ships. The Bridge was opened in 1973 on
the fiftieth anniversary of the Republic of Turkey.

One encounters the strait called the Bosphorus frequently in myth and history.
This natural waterway has always been of strategic importance. lt separates
Europe and Asia,but civilizations on its two sides have blended throughout the
ages. lstanbul has developed as a consequence of the strategic location of the
Bosphorus. At every bend of this marvelous waterway the view is one of a dif-
ferent lake. With magnificient palaces, numerous 18th and 19th century yalts
(seafront houses) and mosques along its shores, as well as the two fortresses
that stand facing each other at its narrowest point, the Bosphorus is a major at-
traction of lstanbul
 THE DOLMABAHQE PALACE

The Dolmabahge Palace, a conglomeration of European architectural styles, was

built between fhe years 1843 and 1856, by Karabet Balyan, architect to the court
of Sultan AbdUlmecid.
All the Ottoman Sultans owned numerous palaces and lodges, but the Topkapt
palace always retained its status as the off icial residence of the incumbent and
the headquarters of the government, up untilthe day Dolmabahqe Palace was com-
pleted. From then on, the Dolmabahge Palace was the main palace and the Topkapt
was deserted.
85
 The grounds of the Dolmabahge Palace are surrounded by a high wall on the land
side. There are two monumental gates to the palace, one of which is extremely
ostentatious. On the seaf ront there is a wharf of nearly 600 m length. The plan
of the Dolmabahge Palace features an elevated central building and two wings
to the north and south of it. The southern wing nearer to the entrance used to
be the working quarters of the Sultan and the larger northern wing, the Harem.
The interior of the elevated central building is a large hall (in fact, the largest in
any palace in the world) used for such important functions as official ceremonies
and banquest given by the Sultan. The upper galleries of the hall werereserved
for diplomats and orchestras. From the 36 metre-high ceiling of the hallhangs a
huge crystal (4.5 tons) chandelier, and the walls and ceiling are decorated to con-
vey to the visitor a message of grandeur. lnitially this section of the palace was
heatqd by a f urnace system underneath at the times it was to be used. Central
heating was installed much later.
The Dolmabahge Palace is perfectly intact with its extravagant intericir decor that
was meant to surpass in magnificence any other palace in the world all the
f
-
urnitures, silk carpets and draperies in its 285 rooms and 43 halls in three storeys
are originals. The walls and ceilings of many rooms and halls are adorned with
the mural paintings of outstanding European atrists of that time as well as motifs
made by using tons of gold.ln the important rooms of the palace all the f urnishings
are in varying tones of the same colour. The f loor everywhere is paved with highest
quality wooden parquet of different colours and textures, covered with beautiful
silk and wool carpets from Hereke,all striking examples of Turkish art.Various
objets d'art brought from Europe and the Far East, paintings, crystal chandeliers
and candelabrums and the beautiful fireplaces in many rooms are priceless
elements of the lavish decor of the palace. ln the Harem that can be reached by
long corridors there are the Sultan's bedchambers, a section for the Sultan's
mother, the quarters of the ladies of the Harem and the,seryants' quarters.
After the Republic of Turkey was founded, the Dolmabahge Palace served for a
iso
I
while as AtatUrk's residence during his visits to lstanbul, and it was in this palace
that the founder of modern Turkey passed away 1938 and that tens of thousands
of his people in procession paid their last salutations to their beloved leader before
the coffin was sent to Ankara. All the clocks in the palace now mark the hour
of AtatUrk's death.
Today, the Dolmabahge Palace is open aS a museum during certain days of the
week and is one of the important treasures of lstanbul a visitor must see'

Mehter (Military Band) in the Dolmabahqe Palace'

Interior view ot the Dolmabahge Palace Dome of the Dolmabahge Palace

 BOSPHORUS
;

The two fortresses, Anadolu Hisarr and Rumeli Hisarr, stand facing each other
at thenarrowestpoint(approximately 800 m) of the Bosphorus. There is a con-
tinuous surface current along the Bosphorus in the direction of the Sea of Mar-
mara which rises to dangerous speeds near the two fortresses, and another current
deep down in the opposite direction. The surface current hasalways been a hazard
for boats sailing along the Bosphorus. The strait has the V-shape of a valley with
a depth of 50 metres on the averange and 110 metres at maximum. The currents
and the levels of water with different temperatures make the Bosphorus a f isher-
man's heaven with ample f ish in the waters either on their way up to the Black
Sea or back, depending on the season. Many f ish restaurants on the shores serve
this delicious fresh fish.
By an excursion on the Bosphorus one can enjoy the fantastic view of this beautiful
strait that separates Asia from Europe.
Until very late in the days of the Ottoman Empire, settlement on the two coasts
of the Bosphorus was rather scarce due to the currents along the strait and the
absence of proper roads. only a few villages, some imperialpalaces and the.man-
sions of the rich could be seen amidst this beautiful landscape. ln the 19th cen-
tury, the summer quarters of the embassies were added to these. But today,
residential developments are plentiful along both coasts and the cliffs behind.

88
Vll/as (Yalrs) on the bank of Bosphorus

Also on both the coasts are numerous restaurants specializing in seafood, taverns,
teahouses and beach facilities. Ancient seaf ront houses (yalts ) that have sur-
vived and the modern villas complement each other in creating a pattern of beauty.

Two examples of wooden villas (Yalts)

I *i:
t!rSS i

The hills along the Bosphorus are covered with evergreen woods and park. ln spring, the pinkish purpte
of the Judas trees ls the dominant colour on these cliffs. The Bosphorus may be seen as a whole
only from an airplane. From a boat or any point along the shores it has the appearance of a take. The
settlements along the Bosphorus, previously villages, have now become parts of the lstanbut metro-
polis by virtue of modern transportation.

The Bay of Tarabya on the European Coast with a grand hotel, a group of seafront seafood restaurants
and a yacht harbour is one of the most colourful spots on the Bosphorus.

!t
IE
!T
 RUMELi H|SARI (THE EUROPEAN FORTRESS)

Before the final siege of the city by the Ottoman army under the command of
Sultan Mehmet the bonqueror in 1453, lstanbul had been besieged many times
by various powers and hadsurvivedall of those not only by virtue of the strong
city walls, but also because of the possibility of receiving supplies by the sea.
Consequently, before the siege Sultan Mehmet ordered the construction of a for-
tress which, assisted by the fortress built earlier on the Asian side by one of his
ancestors, would be able to stop all the sea traff ic down the Bosphorus. Rumeli
Hisarr (The European Fortress) was built in 1452 within an incredibly short four
months. This largest and strongest fortress of the Middle Ages lost its strategic
importance after the conquest of lstanbul by the Turks.
Rumeli Hisarr, regarded as a classical example of fortif ication architecture, was
restored in the 1950's and opend to the public as a museum. Also, the amphitheatre
inside the walls is being used for staging plays and shows especially during the
festival of arts held annually in lstanbul. Rumeli Hisarr as a whole can best be
seen from the Asian coast of from a boat cruising the Bosphorus.
91
 ANADOLU HISARI
(THE ANATOLTAN FORTRESS)

Anadolu H isarr (The

Anatolian Fortress) was
built on the Asian coast of
the Bosphorus in 1390-1391
by Sultan Beyazrd I with the
purpose of controlling
passage through the
Bosphorus. But it was only
after Rumeli Hisarr was
built some sixty years later
that perfect control could
be established. The for-
tress is f lanked by a creek
that was the romantic set-
ting for pleasure rides in
rowboats accompanied by
wine and song during the
times of the Ottoman Em-
pire. Today, it is still a pic-
turesque and romantic site
along with the old seafront
houses that surround it.

Most of lstanbul's large, international hotels are clustered around Taksim Square,
with sweeping view of the Bosphorus.

Hotel Etap Marmara

 Hotel lstanbul Hilton Hotel Sheraton

the city centre'

Princes tslands: Istanbul's summer paradise, They are located one hour's distance f rom
on four tstands which are tocated one hour's distance from the
No motor vehicles are allowed the
city centre. Transportation on the Islands is by phoetons'
No motor vehicles are allowed on the for islands. Transportation is by phaetons.

Island Panorama: The lslands and their swroundings are a heaven for boaters,
swimmers and windsurfers. Fish and mussels are abundant.
lstanbul has on of the world's largest and tastiest selections of seasonal fruits,
vegatabtes and local fish.

Wiew of Bosphorus: Dolmabahge Palace,-Bosphorus Bridge and the'Asian side from Europe
It's fun to swim in the three seas of lstanbul: all have less salted waters then other
seas. Beaches of Bosphorus have deep waters with colourful surroundings.

lstanbul is situated at the junction of different seas. The Bosphorus, the Sea Mar-
mara and the Black Sea each offers swimmers a unique experience on nearby
beaches. Sandy beaches of $ileand Kilyos are about an hour drivindistance
from the city centre.
During a visit of lstanbul there are many opportunities to try or look for Turkish
"sPEclALTlES" : Baklava, Turkish delight, shish Kebab, Pistachio nuts, Leather
goods, Turkish Coffee, carpets, copper objects, superb wine, Rakr (the national
drink). Daily bread and non-f rozen f resh food is the customary way in Turkey. Part
of the daily life is to enjoy the delicious food of the country.
MUSEUMS
TOPKAPI PALACE: Open six days except tuesday f rom 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
HAGIA SOPHIA: Open six days except monday from 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m
MUSEUM OF TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ART: Open six days except monday
f rom 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
ANADOLU AND RUMELI CASTLES: Open six days ercept monday from
9.30 a.m. to 5 pm.
DOLMABAHQE PALACE: Open five days except monday and thursday.
from 9 a.m. to 4. p.m. (ln winter time from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.)
BEYLERBEY| PALACE, yrLDrZ SALE KoQKU, KUQUKSU KASRI, AyNALt
KAVAK KASRI,
IHLAMUR KASRI: Open five days except monday and thursday f rom 9 a.m.
to 4 p.m.
MUNICIPAL MUSEUM: Open five days except saturday and sunday from g.
a.m. to 5 p.m.
ATATURK MUSEUM: Open five days except saturday and sunday from 10
a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and f rom 2 p.m.to 4.30 p.m.
TANZ|MAT (POL|TICAL REFORMS) MUSEUM, ASiyAN MUSEUM: Open five
days except saturday and sunday from 8.30 a.m. to 12.30 a.m. and from 1
p.m. to 5 p.m.
CARPET MUSEUM: Open six days except monday f rom g a.m. to 5 p.m.
NAVAL MUSEUM: Open six days except tuesday f rom 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
PAINTING AND SCULPTURE MUSEUM: Open five days except monday
and tuesday f rom 12 a.m. to 4 p.m.
KAR|YE MUSEUM: Open six days except tuesday from 9.30 a.m. to 4.30
p.m.
MILITARY MUSEUM: Open f ive days except monday and tuesday f rom 9.30
a.m. to 12 a.m. and f rom 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.
CALIGRAPHY MUSEUM: Open six days except monday from 9.30 a.m. to 5
p.m.
SADBERK HANIM MUSEUM: Open six days except wednesday f rom .10
a.m. to 6 p.m.
MUSEUM OF TURKISH BUILDING AND WORKS OF ART: Open six days
except monday from 9.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
 87.34.Y.0025.1

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