Professional Documents
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ADVANCED
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HIMITS
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DRESS CUTTING.
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Mr. & Mrs. J. S BAUGHMAN,
BURLINGTON. IOWA
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BAUGHMAN'S ADVANCED HINTS ON DliUSS CUTTING. :t
-IlvrTPtODXJOTOFt^S^.
ID RESS CUTTING is an art, and requires the draprry are not in harmony with the form.
TASTE and CAREFUL STUDY. It IS A SCIENCE This entire book, therefore, has been written
and requires precision on the part of the and illustrated to make self-instruction not only
person who takes the measure and drafts possilile but easy. To teach you how to copy from
u^ and cuts the garment. any fashion journals, and to design your own pat-
T
Putting the lining upon the goods and terns as fashion may dictate.
BASTING the single parts of the garment together In studying this book, read carefully each
PROPERLY, is also ail important feature. sentence, and perform that part of the work, then
A garment may
be cut artistically and cor- another sentence, and do that, and so continue
rectly, and then spoiled in basting and finishing. with each piece until the garment is drafted. If
It may be cut correctly, basted nicely and fit you do this, and make frequent reference to the
smoothly yet lack the artistic effect which
;
illnstrationv, you will have no trouble in under-
characterizes a first class garment, simply be- standing all designs herein illustrated.
cause the shape and curvature of the seams and
3-^^^
1
TO OUR CUSTOMERS.
-^READ OAREFULLY.^r
Those using the Improved No. 1, Glove-Fitting Garment Clutter can understand the illustrations
in this book by cutting a paper pattern, (according to meas\ire, on traced linen, allowing tio seams.
)
Use this pattern according to directions for the Adjustable Tailor System, and substitute the word
pattern wherever the word machine or sjjstem. occurs. And where curve of xqtiare is used, substitute
cttmie of ^de-form.
i:n (JiiJ/Ays AitvASi i:j> hims os ih:i:ss < i iiisa.
your finger above, and back of back dart, as at point ])y the heavy curved lines.
K. Move system back about inches at waist line. H Measure down on this
Now trace back edge of back dart C, also the under- straight line the length of
arm seam 1). from arms-eye of system down to bot- ycnir under-arm measure,
tom of basque. If properly moved, the machine and mark waist line as in-
will be about f of an inch higher at arms-eye than dicated or seam will be too
the draft, and should be so cut. The lines A, B. long. Then sha[)e tln^ hip
(', D, represents the change made in this style. seam of skirt from this
Those using ihe No. 1. can cut a paper pattern on triunl liiirs. in-
point. Now measure in 1^^
rliidiii'j the fiarts. then move pattern as seen in-Fi{; 1
inches at waist line in
THE SINGLE DART. front, and I of an inch at
SI' ! t icrkio I \
Itottoinof bastiue, and
In cutting the Single shape with curve of the
Dart, trace aroun<l out- square, as per line K.
side of system. Then Then shape bottom of
move system back | of an bas(|uc.
inch and trace front edge To throw a fullness into
of f r o n
t dart. ark M the bust, add 1 inch out
through the l>ack slot, from point of shoulder
between the darts at ; ;'am. as jrei' d(^1te(l line and shape arms-eye with
w a ist of system as at .-ysteni;then take up 1 inch in center of shoulder.
Itoint J : also mark be- This is only done in cutting the lining. Then in
tween dart pieces as at I. basting on the goods, hold the lining full at waist
Then use l)ack e<lge of line.
inch at under-arm seam To (lit this style. [)lace system with fronton
as af point K. fold of goods, and trace neck, shouhler, arms-eye
and under-arm strain to bottom of l)asque. Mark
In using tiie No. i to cut tliis sl\lf, simply mariv points
III lialf fitting on
dart, (found tlinrt, i
ami take off two sizes waist line. Now mark off the width of both darts
ai waist oi underarm seam. in.> at waist line from nndcr-ann seam K to L;
(;')
.
curved edge <>f t In- To cut the KeaiiileHx ii^aixt. fold the /i/iiiu/ on
square to shape tlu^ the bias. Set each i)iece of the machine to the
front inward to point iiieas\iretaken. Pla<-e the liack on fold of goods
A. then outward to ba<^k of collar. as in Fig. IMace side-form so it touches Ivick at
.">.
The collar should l)e about ;^ inches high, and arms-eye and waist with curve slightly lapping on
cut long so as to liave room to fit it to the form at back: also lapskii-1. .Next place under-arm form
tlie l)ack. to touch side-form at arnis-eyr and waist, 'i'licii
This garment very desiral)le for vest fronts
is the front to touch under-arm foi-m at arms-eye.
or shirt waists. Tlie back can be cut as any ordi- and to A//^ '>//f ///c// at waist, as at B. Now trace
nary basque or with the French Back. (See fig. 7. t ai-ound the (uit^ide. as the machine is placed.
a liAiaHMAxs Ai)\Ay( t:i> hims <t\ duess ( nr/ya
Divide the space at
arms-eye into three
equal parts. Make
the back at waist line
1 inch wi de, and T)
the waist.
'I'his style of gar-
THE DOUBLE SIDE-FORM. ment is often used
This style is only used in cutting for large for small forms, and
forms, 26 inch waist and upwards. The object is also in cutting coats.
to give a slender appearance to the form in the To cut the French
back, and in cutting princess or polonaise, to en- Back place the l)ack
able one to throw the drapery or ])leats farther and side-form to-
l)ack. gether as per dotted
Set the ba(-k, the side-form, and under-arm lines a n d t r a c e
form to tlie measures taken. "'Place the back and around them. Now
side-form together on a piece of paper, as per dot- trace u n d e r-a r m
ted line, figure 6, and trace around the outside. form and draw waist
Now trace the under-arm form, then take oft' | of line.
an inch at side seam, and add the same to the Take off from the
back. Shape line A with the side-form, and line side-form at waist li
L with tlie uiKler-arm form. inches and 1 incli at
.
form as at 1.
SF.I,V.\OK.
To cut a yoke, set all the p:irtsof the machine suffic-ieut for walking length. For a reoejition
to the exact measures. Then place back on fold (foirn the full width of goods may be added. The
of Koods as in Fis;. 8, place side-form next to it. length of train is usually from S to 1") inches
and trace around both. The front is cut asjndi- longer than the front and sides.
cated with no seam lietweeu the under-arm form The skirt is not lined, hut fastened to a
and front. Cut as much below the arms-eye as foundation skirt by the darts and belt. Cut the
you wish, usnaly H inches. lining as per unlettered dotted lines. Also cut
BLOUSE WAIST. the goods in like manner and sew together, if
sKK Ki(;i;Kr.s S and 9.
goods is not wide enough for lengths of skirt. If
SI, I lie, I Kl I
(I.
Cut the French, Skirt same as the Bell, (Fig. 10, SHOULDER CAPE.
page 7) from selvage down, as per line K N then ; WITH PLEATS IN FRONT AND BACK.
add a fnll width in center of back, as from K to sir. KICUKK A 13.
L. This width over to the line C I, is put into To cut this cape, measure as for Fig. i;5. The
pleats, and thrown under the skirt at waist, and space K L, (9inches); is the measure over tiie arm,
It't fall natural to bottom of skirt.
the same as A B, Fig. 18. The space from L to H,
If goods is too narrow for this style it is better is the goods thrown into pleats in \\\e hack; and
to cut the lining as in Fig. K), and arrange the
(forxln in s)nre>< as lines AR C, <fec.
instinctiiin book), and draw line A F. Place the To the French Sleeve, add to the phiin
ctit
front with waist of tystem, at under-arm seam, on upper 8 inches, as from A to B, then make line P
waist line K, and arms-eye to touch the end of B the same length as P A. Now shape the top E,
line A B. Trace around outside. Now cut from with the curve of the square, and make any
B up to L. an<l down to end of line A, a little on height desired. Always tioice the height you wish
'
the inside of arms-?ye of back to give a narrow ef- the sleeve. Noir turn the fti/xtetn over place it ;
fect to the ))ack. ("ut shouldei- seams as indicated. with edge touching edge" of draft from elbow at
P to wrist and trace under jxirt of a j)l(iin coat
;
MATCHING PLAIDS
S V. V. M ( . 1 i; I I').
{mi
SEK FIGL'RK 1 5.
of Hide-form curve J to the same position of tlie
To cut Jersi/ Sleeves No. 1 trace
around sleeve system as per line A, H.
D ; then turn si/stem over and let it
cut by
Tliis iy Draw- a rectangle as before, and the line a
placing the iin- M same as a k in No. 1. Then use the curve of
fler-ariii form so the square to round off the lines h m and n m.
that it ^'ivt's ;i Shape ba(^k of collar.
two iiK^h dart at The line l.k m n
another style of the
is
waipt of liont, round Medici collar and is obtained same as the
and so that the one just described, except it is four inches high
waist line of the from line k to m n as per dotted line. Then hol-
under-anii form low in as per line k to m.
isfrom U to 2'>
from A to x 'ii inches, cut a v and rcniml off as side-form to you. This will necessitate basting
indicated in Fiy. 1. one from top down, and the other from waist up.
IiA( (iHMAys AIHiSVKI* HISTS OA ItHESS ('( TTJNfi II
111 l)astiii^ the shoulder seam, stretrli the wrinkles so often caused by the stays.
front to the back; or if this cannot be done, full
In basting a Seamless Waist, Jit the lining Jirst
the back to the front. Always start at the neck, and then put the lining on to the goods/?///.
and if you cannot make the seams exact, let the
To give a dksiraiu.k kfkkct tlie goods should
diU'ereiHe be at tlie arms-eye, and trim off.
always be cut folded on the bias, the same as the
In IxistiiiK the darts, baste from the top down.
lining. This gives the e.ifeet of length to the waist.
Nkver mark a waist line for the darts, unless you
Plaid goods are the most desirable for this kind
measure down on either side and mark both sides
of a basque. If solid goods is used, the basque
exact. This is very essential in the French Dart.
should ))e trimmed with gimp or narrow lace to
To fasten xtai/'i in the dress so as to avoid
give this effect.
wrinkles at bend the stay outward at
H-aixt. first
waist, then fasten the ends to the goods. Now As a OKNERAL RULE and especially for silks
This naturally stretches the goods and avoids the the measure, and full the half inch to outside.
1. Each cut in this book is represented by sistance of the square and (-ollar-guage, you art-
figures 1, 2, 8, etc. able to cut any style of a ladies' dress, from the
'2. Never read the directions without fre- collar to the skirt, and do it easier than with any
qw^ntlii referring to the cut mention+'d. other system ever invented.
'>. Everii letter used separatelij. as A and B, To those using the Improved No. 1 Gtlove-
etc. in these instruction, can be found on the cut Pitting Garment Cutter, we wish to say, that
referred to in the directions, and are there to help you will find nothing that is its equal for the price.
yoii locate that particular point or seam. The square and collar-gua^e are combined in the
4. Never read over a letter without seeing dart rule. The extended curvature is found in the
where it is found on the cut, and what it means. side-form, so that you are enabled to cut any style
T). Remember tlie Ad.iustable Tailor System of dress fashion may dictate.
is set to actual measure, and is always the shape of Nearly everything in this book may be cut
a perfect fitting pattern for the form whose meas- from the System direct, after you learn to use the
ure is taken. Remember that with it and the as- cut pattern first.
'
F^F^IGH] LIST
-ov -OK-
BAUGHMAN'S BAUGHMAN'S
GLOVE-FITTING GARMENT CUTTER, ADJUSTABLE TAILOR SYSTEM.
HkdPK-OVED ISTo. 1
One Cutter with Instruction Book and One Adjustable Tailor System with In-
oral lesson,^ 1(5.00 struction Book and oral lessons * 10.00
One book of Advanced Hints on Dress One book of Advanced Hints on Dress
Cuttinff 50 Cuttinff 50
Ora/ lessons on all French styles 2.50 Oral lessons on all French styles 2.50
J.
Agents
V^
wanted. ^: ^'\' "^^ '"^*
''"r"
agents; also give reduced *'7'n
rates
"<:
to DRESS
MAKERS buying in large quantities to furnish apprentice girls. Our
Systems are new, yet the territory is being rapidly taken. Prompt at-
tention given to all orders.
Write for terms, enclosing a two cent stamp, to
^
BAUGHMAN'S 011 020 379 2
BAUGHMAN'S
J. s. B-A.xjGHi:M:^3sr,
^ ^
Hollinger Corp.
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
Hollinger Corp.
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