"Vanishing Tie" Samples Brianna Plummer

9/29/2014

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In order to create the design, I needed to draft a 2piece collar, I used the mandarin collar sloper (dra
off the stand using standard flat pattern techniques.
The first step in the book was to draft the armhole dart only bodice front and the no dart bodice bac
fullness in other words ignore the darts and redraw the waistline. Add the suggested intended leng
seam starts at original underarm, tapers in at waist and flares slightly at new hem line. Close out ba

Draw in angled styline using the top leg of the armhole dart going through bust point and stopping a
book does not easily define the need and placement of the extension difference for right and left sid
the pattern pieces. So here is the way I did it to start (and as you will see I would do it differently th
Draw in a buttonhole/closure extension beyond CF starting at the neckline and continuing beyond t
connecting CF to edge of extension (in hopes to avoid seeing the extension under the tie. At this po
asymmetry. The left side is as it is but the right side needs the tie added. Tape paper under the righ
(guide for the length of your tie). Draw in shape of tie extension, the book has you hit the same mar
transfer tie extension to the other side of CF to where it meets the style line. (image sequence abov
Create a bias strip pattern to be the part of the tie that goes around the neck and the part of the tie
neckline.
I was trying to plan for the construction and finishing so I added an attached facing to the extension
part where it is connected behind the tie. (In the future I reshape only this section)
Now to construct. Forewarning, the sequence in the book IT DOES NOT WORK. Yes the opening
therefore when you cut and tack, as the book says, the tie and knot with the lower part of the tie the

I stitched the tie facing right sides together only on the stitch lines seen below, you must stitch exac
This next step got complicated and ugly, mostly on the side without the tie extension. Pin and stitch
line up. Right now it does not line up at the raw edge. Stitch the side with the tie extension only to t
Stitch bottom edge of placket shut and turn and press in place

Stitch together right and left sides below the tie to hem,
On back side of bodice,pin and stitch layers in to keep tie aligned. This is the part of the pattern I ch
want to. I think there need to be different pieces for all four front bodice pieces. Looking at the instr
Collar construction is standard, stitch upper collar together along outer edge only, clip, turn, press.
Note: when I added the extension to the bodice pattern I made sure the extension of the mandarin/

Stitch shoulder and side seams, stitch CB from neckline to about 2 down leaving most of the CB o

Stitch one neckline edge of collar to bodice neckline, finish raw edge
Put shirt on form and tie bias strip as a tie around the neckline. Cut excess off. (I still left a little leng

Now the book says to slip the lower part of the tie (you might need to trim off some extra here as w
snaps strategically inside the knot or you could separate everything at the CB (upper collar, stand,
Analysis:

The Challenge: Study this pattern to discover what you can learn and apply to future work. Start w

Q. 1: What type of flat patternmaking is this: Dart manipulation? Added fullness? Contouring? Som

Vanishing Tie is a technique to incorporate expanding pieces into other parts of a garment so they
fullness and design stylines. As in many of these samples there is added geometric shapes not nec

Q. 2: What are the basic principles of this pattern?

1. Style lines were drawn to create the seam lines that manipulate the armhole darts

2. Added fullness was used as a way to eliminate the waist darts (almost adjusting to be a non-dar
Q. 3: What are the basic rules of this pattern?

1. Place the stylelines to intersect bust point and dart legs

2. I would suggest in the future to use a base patter that has your stylines, overlap lines and sh

3. Once pattern pieces are cut apart tape onto another piece of paper to accommodate CF exte

4. Notch, mark the transition and overlap spots accurately

5. Plan your stitching sequence to accommodate intersecting seams

6. Pin and stitch in sections

Q. 4: Are these rules and principles always true?

Yes, I think the principles always true

Q. 5: What rules of traditional patternmaking are broken in this pattern?

No traditional patternmaking rules are broken in this pattern, but traditional patternmaking rules fo
accurate information on how to pattern facings in order to finish the garment.