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Correspondence to:
Alenka Pavko-Cuden email: alenka.cuden@ntf.uni-lj.si
ABSTRACT
For decades, scientists have been trying to define techniques, e.g. electron microscopy [13,14] and
relationships among yarn parameters, knitted fabric computer aided image analysis [15], loop models
parameters, and knitting parameters with loop enabled a more precise specification of the loop
models. Recently, the geometrical loop models have shape and size, depending on the geometrical
returned to focus as they assist finding the effective parameters of the loop. Contemporary computer
parameters which cause dimensional changes during graphics have been lately used to additionally
relaxation. Furthermore, they help designing knitted illustrate the knitted loop geometry [16,17]. In
structures for technical applications and obtaining addition to mechanical and energy loop models,
computer simulations of knitted structures. In the which interpret the behavior of knitted structures
past, geometrical loop models considered more or under loading, the geometrical loop models have
less porous structures and the yarns used were mostly recently returned to focus. Geometrical loop models
conventional, without elastane. The behavior and assist finding the effective parameters which cause
characteristics of compact knitted fabrics made from dimensional changes during relaxation, enable
elasticized yarns have been investigated only planning the production of a piece of fabric before
recently. In general, mostly the structures with plated knitting, assist designing knitted structures for
elastane threads have been analyzed. The aim of the technical applications, obtain computer simulations
research was to study the geometrical parameters of knitted structures for design or fault-assessing
(yarn thickness, loop width, loop height, fabric purposes, help creating a physical loop model, help
thickness, loop length) of plain single weft knitted evaluating curling etc [17].
structures made from various elasticized yarns, in
comparison to equivalent structures made from Due to the three-dimensional curved shape of the
conventional yarns. In the study, the most frequently loop, knitted structures are generally more porous and
applied loop models for the loop length calculations extensible than other textile structures. On the other
were evaluated with the emphasis on their adequacy hand, contemporary knitted fabrics with incorporated
for elasticized knitted structures. A new loop model elastane usually exhibit a very compact structure due
for an elasticized weft knitted structure based on the to extensive shrinking relaxation after knitting, wet
multiple linear regressions was defined. finishing and care processes. In the past, various
geometrical loop models considered more or less
INTRODUCTION porous structures, e.g. open, normal and to a certain
As early as in the first half of the 20th century, degree also closed (compact) structures [210,12];
scientists tried to define relationships among yarn however, the yarns used were mostly conventional,
parameters, knitted fabric parameters and knitting i.e. without elastane. The behavior and characteristics
process parameters with loop models. The first loop of compact knitted fabrics made from elasticized
models dealing with the single knitted structure were yarns have not been investigated until recently [18
geometrical and relatively simple [13], and they 21]. In general, mostly the structures with plated
only approximately corresponded to the yarns and elastane threads have been analyzed [2224].
knitted structures applied at that time. The subsequent
models were more complex [411], and played an The aim of the presented investigation was to study
important role in the control of knitted fabric the geometrical parameters (yarn thickness, loop
dimensions and mass per unit area. Later on, loop width, loop height, fabric thickness, and loop length)
models [1216] were designed for graphic of plain single weft knitted structures made from
simulations and knitted structure planning. Supported various elasticized yarns, in comparison to equivalent
by the latest expertise, testing and measuring structures made from conventional yarns. One of the
density 1 D1 density 2 D2
yarn relaxation
(more compact) (less compact)
dry DR CV MOU DR D1 CV MOU DR D2
1
wet WR CV MOU WR D1 CV MOU WR D2
TABLE II. Yarn characteristics and labeling. dry DR PAN MOU DR D1 PAN MOU DR D2
2
wet WR PAN MOU WR D1 PAN MOU WR D2
dry DR CV C-TW DR D1 CV C-TW DR D2
3
wet WR CV C-TW WR D1 CV C-TW WR D2
dry DR PAN C-TW DR D1 PAN C-TW DR D2
4
wet WR PAN C-TW WR D1 PAN C-TW WR D2
dry DR CV C-SP DR D1 CV C-SP DR D2
5
wet WR CV C-SP WR D1 CV C-SP WR D2
dry DR PAN C-SP DR D1 PAN C-SP DR D2
6
wet WR PAN C-SP WR D1 PAN C-SP WR D2
dry DR CV CONV DR D1 CV CONV DR D2
7
wet WR CV CONV WR D1 CV CONV WR D2
dry DR PAN CONV DR D1 PAN CONV DR D2
8
wet WR PAN CONV WR D1 PAN CONV WR D2
TABLE IV. Knitted fabric parameters: loop width (A), loop height
(B), loop length ().
WR 8.62 11.86 12.33 8.58 9.08 9.02 9.42 F-test 0.788 0.004 0.452 0.396 0.225 0.636 0.752 0.338
9
11.5 t-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
DR 8.93 9.53 10.41 7.85 8.91 7.52 8.41
A
C-TW 7 F-test 0.810 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
3
CV-EL 11.4 t-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
WR 8.71 9.74 10.34 7.29 7.93 7.42 7.93
B
6
F-test 0.503 0.004 0.000 0.000 0.026 0.000 0.000 0.000
11.8
DR 8.97 10.07 10.58 8.38 9.25 8.04 8.88 t-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
C-TW 5
4
PAN-EL t F-test 0.000 0.000 0.569 0.025 0.026 0.000 0.000 0.000
11.7
WR 8.72 11.07 11.55 8.14 8.71 8.46 8.94
0
TABLE IX.. Statistical significance of difference between loop
11.6
DR 6.67 9.56 10.19 7.56 8.26 7.36 7.93 parameters of core-twist elasticized (C-TW) and conventional
C-SP 4
5 (CONV) samples.
CV-EL 11.3
WR 8.25 11.27 11.92 7.80 8.52 8.40 8.98
3 C-TW/CONV
11.7 p-value CV PAN
DR 8.86 9.99 10.90 8.17 9.24 7.82 8.71
S-SP 6
6 DR D1 DR D2 WR D1 WR D2 DR D1 DR D2 WR D1 WR D2
PAN-EL 11.4
WR 8.75 11.61 12.37 8.31 9.12 8.73 9.38 t-test 0.041 0.512 0.028 0.111 0.027 0.001 0.432 0.000
0
11.4 F-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
DR 8.69 9.52 11.66 8.53 11.69 7.98 10.88
CONV 8 t-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
8
PAN
t
11.3 F-test 0.103 0.158 0.241 0.320 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
WR 8.64 9.64 11.25 8.49 10.59 8.00 9.84
2
*Morooka & Matsumoto & Morookas loop model
TABLE X. Statistical significance of difference between loop
parameters of core-spun elasticized (C-SP) and conventional
From the measured knitted fabric parameters (CONV) samples.
presented in Table IV and Table V, loop lengths were
calculated for each sample, using Eq. (1)(7). The C-SP/CONV
calculated loop lengths for normal and closed p-value CV PAN
structures are given in Table VI. The calculated loop DR D1 DR D2 WR D1 WR D2 DR D1 DR D2 WR D1 WR D2
lengths for open structures are given in Table VII. t-test 0.588 0.152 0.107 0.728 0.285 0.069 0.468 0.630
Both tables also include the measured loop lengths F-test 0.757 0.933 0.149 0.580 0.006 0.033 0.157 0.007
for comparison. t-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
A
TW, C-SP) and conventional (CONV) wet relaxed F-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.011 0.000
(WR) samples, separately for D1 and D2 density, are
t-test 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
presented in two simplified Box plots (cf. Figure 2).
t
The model is good, as it explains more than 98% As anticipated, the structures made from
(R2adj. = 98.5%) of the variability in loop length (). conventional yarns without elastane show the best
agreement with the studied geometrical loop models
Following the research aim, the samples were then for open structures. Elasticized structures cannot be
divided into two groups, separating conventional modeled well with the existing geometrical loop
knitted fabrics from elasticized knitted fabrics. The models. Therefore, the investigated loop models
group of elasticized yarns comprised moulin, core- cannot be generally applied when designing both
twisted and core-spun yarns. Again, linear models conventional and elasticized single weft knitted
with three predictors, i.e. loop width (A), loop height fabrics. For both conventional and elasticized knitted
(B), yarn thickness (d), were generated. fabric planning, the following new general loop
model can be applied:
According to the model, the loop length of
conventional samples can be calculated as presented 1 .92 A 1 .41 B 4 .59 d
in Eq. (10).
For elasticized single weft knitted structures, a new
0 .80 A 2 .58 B 4 .26 d (10) mathematical model is proposed:
The model explains more than 99% (R2 = 99.8%) of 2 .46 A 2 .11 B 2 .98 d
the variability in loop length ().
REFERENCES
The loop length of elasticized samples made from [1] Tompkins, E.; Science of knitting; Wiley: New
various types of elastomeric yarns can be calculated York, 1914.
as presented in Eq. (11). [2] Peirce, F.T.; Geometrical principles applicable
to the design of functional fabrics; Textile
2 .46 A 2 .11 B 2 .98 d (11) Research Journal 1947, 17, 123147.
[3] Munden, D.L.; The geometry and dimensional
The new loop model for the elasticized single weft properties of plain-knitted loop; Journal of
structure is good as it explains more than 98% (R2adj. the Textile Institute 1959, 50, T448T471.
= 98.8%) of the variability in loop length (). [4] Leaf, G.A.V.; Glaskin, A.; The geometry of a
plain knitted loop; Journal of the Textile
Institute 1961, 46, T587T605.