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Fatma Kalaoglu,
Analysing the Effect of Decatising
SenemKursun Bahadir,
*Simona Jevsnik
on the Frictional Properties of Wool Fabrics
Istanbul Technical University, Abstract
Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, The properties of wool fabrics desired can only be achieved if appropriate finishing pro-
Textile Engineering Department, cesses are carried out. Decatising is a part of wool finishing processes increasing the fab-
Istanbul, Turkey ric surface properties of fabrics. In this study, high pressure decatising process was applied
E-mail: eryuruk@itu.edu.tr to semi-decatised woven wool fabrics. Surface properties (coefficient of friction, mean de-
*University of Maribor, viation in the frictional force, geometric roughness) of the fabrics were measured by KES-
Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, FB4, and the friction coefficient of the fabrics by means of a Frictorq test machine before
Department of Textile Material and Design, and after application of the high pressure decatising process. The effect of high pressure
Maribor, Slovenia decatising on the fabric surface properties of wool and wool blend fabrics was analysed. It
was concluded that high pressure decatising process had a healing effect on the fabric sur-
face properties, and also the coefficient of friction and surface roughness values decreased.
Key words: wool fabric, decatising process, surface properties, frictional coefficient, han-
dle.
n Introduction
The frictional properties including fric-
tion coefficient of wool fabrics are highly
important components of subjective han-
dle assessment. The quality and surface
characteristics of wool fabrics can be
evaluated by handle evaluation methods.
Finishing is a series of processes to de-
velop the properties of wool fabrics and
different combinations of wet and dry
Figure 1. KES-FB4 automatic surface
finishing processes are applied to wool tester [16].
fabrics to improve the handle and me-
chanical properties of the fabrics. Deca-
tising is a normal finishing step for many
wool and wool blend fabrics. High pres- A)
sure decatising is an effective mechanical
softening treatment resulting in lustrous,
soft and smooth handle [1].
B)
In the semi-decatising process, wool
fabric is wound onto a perforated drum
between interleaving cotton blankets.
Steam is sent through the perforated
C)
drum for several minutes to ensure mois-
ture and heat. The controlling time, pres-
sure, heat, moisture and cooling result in
effective mechanical softening and better
surface properties like luxurious, soft-
ness and smooth handle [2].
Eryuruk SH, Kalaoglu F, Bahadir SK, Jevsnik S. Analysing the Effect of Decatising on the Frictional Properties of Wool Fabrics. 79
FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014; 22, 3(105): 79-83.
sions of wool fabric. It also increases the Researchers, beginning with Pierce, no- Lima et. al. used the instrument Fric-
surface smoothness and handle prop- ticed the need for quantitative assessment torq to compare the friction coefficient
erties of wool fabrics. In this process of handle in 1930 [4]. Kawabata related in nonwovens applied for non-active
wool fabric is interleaved with a cotton the handle value with 16 mechanical medical devices, and they concluded that
or cotton/synthetic wrapper, at a regain properties that can be measured with 5 frictorq measurements could be used as
usually between 5 and 15%, and wound a comfort parameter because information
different instruments providing a valu-
into a batch on a hollow perforated cyl- related with tactile perception was ob-
able basis to make an objective assess-
inder in an autoclave (pressure vessel) tained [7]. Also Lima et. al. analysed and
with steam greater than atmospheric ment, especially making comparisons compared the friction coefficient of three
pressure. The direction of steam flow [5]. The Kawabata Evaluation System different double-faced fabrics made from
can usually be varied from outside-to- (KES-FB) is based on discrete test instru- non-conventional fibre combinations [8].
inside or alternatively inside-to-outside, ments for measuring tensile, shear, bend- Thorndike and Varley researched the
whereby both the cohesive and perma- ing, compression and surface properties, frictional properties of fabrics in rela-
nent sets are introduced into the fabric. which are the basis for the expression of tion to handle [9]. Owen proposed eight
After purging with steam to remove air, fabric handle. During the surface test of physical properties, which are stiffness,
the roll is steamed under pressure for up KES (FB-4), two contact sensors meas- weight, thickness, compressibility, liveli-
to five minutes at temperatures between ure the thickness variation of the sample ness, ease of skewness, shearing and cold
105 and 130 C. The fabric and wrapper feeling, as important factors involved in
and frictional force. Surface roughness
are then cooled by drawing air at ambient handle [10].
and the coefficient of friction are given
temperature through the roll. The amount
of permanent sets introduced depends at the end of the test. A higher coeffi- Finnimore carried out different finishing
on the fabric pH, the time of treatment, cient of friction value (MIU) indicates processes for 100% wool knitted and wo-
the temperature and relative humid- higher fabric friction, while a higher sur- ven samples and found out that pressure
ity of the steam and on the regain of face roughness value (SMD) indicates a decatising was the most important step
the fabric [3]. rougher (less smooth) fabric surface [6]. for fabric handle [11]. Finnimore further
0.20 0.25
Surface property in warp, MIU
0.18
0.16 0.20
0.14
0.12 0.15
0.10
0.08 0.10
0.06
0.04 0.05
0.02
0.00 0.00
Before H.P.D After H.P.D Before H.P.D After H.P.D
100% wool 70% wool - 30% PET
100% wool 70% wool - 30% PET
75% wool - 25% silk
75% wool - 25% silk
10.0
Surface property in warp, SMD
8.0
Surface property in weft, MIU
7.0
8.0
6.0
6.0 5.0
4.0
4.0 3.0
2.0
2.0
1.0
0.0 0.0
Before H.P.D After H.P.D Before H.P.D After H.P.D
Figure 3. Comparison of surface properties of fabrics before and after high pressure decatising.