Clay Interlocking Brick Machine

Automatic Hydraulic Press

HR4-10
(4 Bricks per Mold)
(8000-9000pcs per Day)

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 Feature of HR4-10 Automatic Brick Machine

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 Price of HR4-10 Interlocking Brick Machine
Working Video: https://youtu.be/U4yIaOGlAkU

Unit Price USD Total Price USD Power

No. Description of Goods Qty
(FOB Qingdao) (FOB) (KW)

A Soil Crusher 1 SET 1150USD 1150USD 5.5KW

B Soil Screen 1SET 1100USD 1100USD 3.0KW

C Belt Conveyor 4M 750USD 750USD 1.1KW

D JQ500 Mixer 1 SET 1380USD 1380USD 7.5KW

E Belt Conveyor 6M 800USD 800USD 1.1KW

F HR4-10 Brick Machine 1 SET 9800USD 9800USD 7.5KW

Mould 1 SET Free Free

Total FOB Amount 14980USD 25.7kw

Note: Molds are with carburizing hear treatment to double molds life

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 Specification

HR4-10 hydraulic interlocking block machine

Overall size 2600(L)1400(W)2100(H)mm

Shaping cycle 10-12 seconds

Power 7.5KW

Pressure 21Mpa

4pcs per Mold

Capacity
8000-9000pcs per Day

Total weight 1800 KGS

JQ500 mixer
Overall size 1500(L)1500(W)1300(H)mm
Shaping cycle 5 mins
Volume 500L (25Kgs Cement)
Electricity 380V/220V/ (adjustable)
Total weight 450KGS
Soil Screen

Power 3 KW

Capacity 480KG/H

Size Diameter:4mm

Total weight 320KGS

Earth Crusher
Overall size 1100(L)1100(W)1400(H)mm

Power 5.5KW

Capacity 500KG/H

Electricity 380V/220V/ (adjustable)

Total weight 300KGS

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 Photos of HR4-10 Brick Making Line

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 Different block function
(1) Standard block-No. 1
The finishing on the edges in this brick type are with chamfer well finished with 6x6 mm, with male and female
fitting, rounded.

This brick model is the most used because of the practicality; it is used like intermediate bricks, wall corners and
massive or leaked beams.

On virtue of leaked system and perfect fitting vertically, they allow the pass of the electric ducts and the hydraulic
system, and others, avoiding breaking walls to pass them. This avoids the rubbish increase, the material wastes,
break-break and the walls restoration, being that in the conventional system of construction this prejudice is
inevitably. The finishing of this apparent masonry will be realized just by the voids grouting between the bricks and
then, with your waterproofing.
(2) Half block No. 10
Used to termination of internal walls, windows, doors and others, if necessary. The great advantage of half
ecological brick is that no needs to be cut or breaking it to do the walls ends.

The work executor doesnt wrong in ideal size of half ecological brick and, more or less, will stop your work to
measure and cut in pieces. So, easily and guarantee a good finishing when is used, avoiding wastes. Beyond that, he
guarantees agility, cleaning and economy
(3) Chute block- No. 2
Available in many models, being that the most used are the holes fitting ones, but the Chute Brick without holes, is
being well applied on works too. The main feature is that it can be placed in many positions and dimensions, used
like stick above and below the windows and doors, and can be used to reinforce in the middle of the walls and back
of a chair (beam above the last layer).

The Ecological Chute Brick enables the vertically and horizontally pass of networks ducts used during the work,
beyond that, this model is lighter to workers handling and to use it, avoiding the work of destroying part of the
walls bricks already built, to the chutes opening. So, the Chute Brick enables the conduit pass like: network of
water, sewer, electric, electronic, TV aerial, phones and others. The advantages are: avoids the waste of material,
reduces the manpower and provides more flexibility and economy.

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 Raw Material Ratio
This is the most popular proportion in making block

Raw Materials Quantity per piece

Water 3%

Cement 5-10%

clay 80-90%

Other specify You can change the proportion depend on your

needs. This block is heavy, but strong

Soil Selection
Soil. This consists principally of sand, clay and silt. blocks cannot be moulded from pure sand

(which will not compress) or from soil with a very high (>35%) clay content. High-clay soils

require the addition of sand, and a higher cement content, to prevent the blocks from cracking.

The soil must be free of organic material and must not contain harmful quantities of salts; it should

contain just sufficient clay to bind the blocks so that they may be handled immediately after

manufacture without disintegrating.

Topsoil. Topsoil is not used because it invariably contains organic matter (roots, leaves and grass)

which inhibits the setting of cement. When clearing the area to be dug, barrow the topsoil away

from the digging site.

Clay. This is plastic it expands and contracts giving the soil the necessary plasticity for

stabilised soil block making and providing cohesion.

Excessive clay content (>35%) causes surface cracking when it relaxes after high compression.

Most often, these cracks are less than 1 mm deep, but blocks made from soils with very high clay

contents can crack right through.

Finding Good Soil. Generally, the clay content of the lower soil layers is higher than the upper

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 levels. If you find the clay content increasing, mine your soil from at higher level, always

removing the topsoil first. Try to find soil which:

1. is free of gravel or hard laterite lumps this saves sieving and extends your wear plate life;

2. has a clay content of between 15% and 35%; when very high-clay soils are used, the outer

surfaces of the blocks relax when the pressure is removed, causing surface cracking; this is due

to the plasticity (or compressibility) of the clay which expands when the pressure is released

3. is free of roots, leaves and grass; organic matter inhibits the setting of cement.

Curing
Wherever cement is used, it is vitally important that it be properly cured (kept wet). Cement

needs water to hydrate, or gain strength, and it requires 28 days curing to achieve full strength.

Ordinary Portland Cement (OPC) achieves only about 60% strength in the first 7 days, and about

85% in 14 days. Curing is particularly important with blocks because the cement requirement is

low.

Keeping the blocks wet is vitally important to final block strength. The better the curing, the

more durable the blocks become. The day after the blocks are made, uncover and water them

generously twice every day once in the morning and once in the evening then cover again

immediately. Keep the blocks covered and watered for at least 14 days. Additional block

strength will be gained by curing for up to 28 days. The blocks must be properly covered so that

they do not dry out seal polythene or tarpaulin edges carefully. A groundsheet improves retention

of water.

Curing blocks under cover, or in a shed, does not mean that you do not need to cover them

they will dry out quickly, even under shade. Unless you have a sprinkler system which will keep

the blocks wet all the time, covering is essential.

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