APPAREL INTERNSHIP

Bachelor of Fashion Technology (Apparel Production)

Submitted By
BITTU KUMARI (PAT13AP41)
ISHA SINGH (PAT13AP33)
SARIKA SINHA (PAT13AP24)

Under The Guidance Of

MS. NILIMA REGINA TOPNO

Department Of Fashion Technology

National Institute Of Fashion Technology, Patna
2013-2017
 Acknowledgement

We wish to express our deepest gratitude and warmest appreciation to the following people,
who, in all way have contributed and inspired us to the overall success of this undertaking. The
success of this project depends largely on the encouragement and guidelines of many others.
We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to the people who have been Instrumental in
the successful completion of this internship.

We wish to express our heartily gratitude towards our parents who supported us through our
apparel internship and provided us a golden opportunity of prove ourselves as a self-dependent
persons and exploring the realistic situation.

We wish to express our gratitude towards our esteemed institution National Institute of Fashion
Technology, Patna and our respected director Mr. Sanjay Srivastav. It was majorly because of
being associated with the institution that we were presented with this opportunity. We are also
very thankful to our mentor Ms. Nilima Regina Topno to guide us throughout the internship
and help us to complete our respective projects.

We would like to extend our whole hearted gratitude to Mr. Hiral Lakadwala (Plant Manager),
Mrs.Nethravathi (Manager-Human Resource & Administration), for giving us such an
opportunity to learn and explore.

We place deep appreciation for the continued co-operation and support given by our industry
mentors, Mr. Anupam Kumar, Ms. Madiha Farheen and Mr. Rakesh Roushan for the services
of the devoted staff, workers and executives of the company. With every activity undertaken,
the Company has not only generated vast knowledge base but has also contributed to creation
of self-motivation and has inspired me to work.

The internship at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. II, Gowribidanur was a unique experience and we
would like to thank everyone associated for transforming this opportunity into a success.

1
 Table of contents
Chapter Topic Page No.
1 Raymond introduction 7
1.1 List of companies 9
1.2 Joint ventures 10
1.3 History 11
1.4 Raymond group structure 13
2 Organizational department introduction 14
2.1 SSAL II 15
2.2 Infrastructure 17
2.3 Organizational structure 18
2.4 Departments 20
2.4.1 Merchandising department 21
2.4.2 Sampling department 22
2.4.3 Pattern Development department 26
2.4.4 Planning department 26
2.4.5 Fabric & trim store 27
2.4.6 Cutting 43
2.4.7 Sewing 60
2.4.8 Finishing 75
2.4.9 Warehouse 80
2.4.10 Quality 82
2.4.11 IE 88
2.4.12 IT & MIS 92
2.4.13 Training 93
2.4.14 HR &Admin 98
2.4.15 Maintenance 100
3 Plant layout 101
3.1 Building shed 102
3.2 Manpower 103
3.3 Machine details 104
4 Projects 106
4.1 Line balancing 107
4.2 Improving productivity with Pitch Time 124
Graph
4.3 Development of proactive issue process 138
& Material Management
5 Annexures 184

2
 Table of Figures
Figure 1: Raymond: The Complete Man ................................................................................................. 8
Figure 2: The Singhania's ...................................................................................................................... 11
Figure 3: SSAL II Journey .................................................................................................................... 16
Figure 4: layout of fabric store .............................................................................................................. 28
Figure 5: inspection machine ................................................................................................................ 35
Figure 6: sponging machine .................................................................................................................. 36
Figure 7: relaxation machine ................................................................................................................ 37
Figure 8: trim store ............................................................................................................................... 38
Figure 9: trim store layout .................................................................................................................... 39
Figure 10: manual spreading................................................................................................................. 49
Figure 11: machine spreading ............................................................................................................... 50
Figure 12: cutting .................................................................................................................................. 51
Figure 13: fusing .................................................................................................................................... 59
Figure 1: jacket finishing ....................................................................................................................... 75
Figure 2: trouser finishing ..................................................................................................................... 78
Figure 3: training section ...................................................................................................................... 93
Figure 4: two hand coordination .......................................................................................................... 95
Figure 5: fabric exercise ........................................................................................................................ 96
Figure 6: paper exercise ........................................................................................................................ 96
Figure 7: uniform colour code .............................................................................................................. 97

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 Table of Tables
Table 1: 4 point inspection.................................................................................................................... 30
Table 2: CSV inspection ......................................................................................................................... 32
Table 3: machine details of fabric store................................................................................................ 35
Table 4: AQL 2.5 .................................................................................................................................... 40
Table 5: thread and ticket number ....................................................................................................... 42
Table 6: CAD software details ............................................................................................................... 45
Table 1: shell parts of a jacket .............................................................................................................. 62
Table 2: small parts of a jacket ............................................................................................................. 62
Table 3: lining parts of a jacket ............................................................................................................. 63
Table 4: total parts of a jacket .............................................................................................................. 63
Table 5: waist coat shell parts............................................................................................................... 68
Table 6: waist coat lining parts ............................................................................................................. 68
Table 7: floor area ............................................................................................................................... 102
Table 8: manpower ............................................................................................................................. 103
Table 9: machine details ..................................................................................................................... 104

4
 Table of Flow Charts
Flow Chart 1: organizational structure ................................................................................................. 19
Flow chart 2: sampling process flow .................................................................................................... 23
Flow chart 3: Planning department work flow...................................................................................... 26
Flow chart 4: store hierarchy ................................................................................................................ 27
Flow chart 5: fabric store flow chart ..................................................................................................... 29
Flow chart 6: trim sore work flow ........................................................................................................ 40
Flow chart 7: CAD work flow ................................................................................................................. 44
Flow Chart 8: Spreading process flow ................................................................................................... 48
Flow Chart 1: front section ................................................................................................................... 65
Flow Chart 2: lining section flow ........................................................................................................... 66
Flow Chart 3: collar section flow........................................................................................................... 66
Flow Chart 4: sleeve section flow ......................................................................................................... 67
Flow Chart 5: assembly section............................................................................................................. 67
Flow Chart 6: small parts W/C .............................................................................................................. 69
Flow Chart 7: front and back flow W/C ................................................................................................ 69
Flow Chart 8: assembly section flow W/C ............................................................................................ 70
Flow Chart 9: Lining section flow W/C .................................................................................................. 70
Flow Chart 10: preparatory flow of trouser .......................................................................................... 72
Flow Chart 11: front and back flow trouser .......................................................................................... 72
Flow Chart 12: assembly 1 trouser ....................................................................................................... 73
Flow Chart 13: assembly 2 trouser ....................................................................................................... 73
Flow Chart 14: Sewing line structure .................................................................................................... 74
Flow Chart 15: jacket finishing organizational structure ...................................................................... 76
Flow Chart 16: jacket finishing process flow......................................................................................... 76
Flow Chart 17: finishing organizational structure ................................................................................. 78
Flow Chart 18: trouser finishing flow .................................................................................................... 79
Flow Chart 19: warehouse organizational structure ............................................................................ 80
Flow Chart 20: warehouse process flow ............................................................................................... 81
Flow Chart 21: quality organizational chart .......................................................................................... 82
Flow Chart 22: raw material inspection flow ........................................................................................ 83
Flow Chart 23: quality in cutting ........................................................................................................... 84
Flow Chart 24: quality in fusing ............................................................................................................ 84
Flow Chart 25: quality in sewing ........................................................................................................... 85
Flow Chart 26: quality in finishing......................................................................................................... 85
Flow Chart 27: IE process flow .............................................................................................................. 88
Flow Chart 28: IE organizational structure ........................................................................................... 89
Flow Chart 29: Responsibilities of IE ..................................................................................................... 90
Flow Chart 30: HR organizational structure .......................................................................................... 99
Flow Chart 31: Maintenance organizational chart ............................................................................. 100

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 Declaration

This is to declare that we have completed my Apparel Internship at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.
II, Gowribidanur under the guidance of Mr. Anupam Kumar, Mr.Rakesh Roushan and
Ms.Mahida Farheen. The work is purely original and no part of the project has been copied
from any other reports. However, any reference or instance taken from any other published
source has been suitably acknowledged at various places.

Sarika Sinha (PAT13AP24)

Mentors Signature,
Bittu Kumari (PAT13AP41)

Isha Singh (PAT13AP33)

6
 CHAPTER -1
RAYMOND
INTRODUCTION

7
 Figure 1: Raymond: The Complete Man

Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs.1400 crore plus conglomerate having
businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and
Toiletries.

The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a pronounced
position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence, Quality and Leadership.

Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of the woolen and worsted textiles market
in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product development, marketing and distribution.
A strong heritage of in house research and development, a range of over 20,000 shades and
designs, a distribution network of more than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over 281 exclusive
retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most respected textile brand in India.

Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look good
and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values creates a
warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'.
At Raymonds consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted in
pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry in
India.

The company's engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right from
developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of fabric for all
occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The Raymond Shops at convenient
locations all over India and the Middle East.

As an integrated player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing
worsted, woollen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.

Raymond is home to some of the most reputed apparel brands of India under the banner of
Raymond Apparel Ltd.

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 1.1 LIST OF COMPANIES

RAYMOND LTD.
Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of
worsted fabrics in the world.

RAYMOND APPAREL LTD.

Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the most highly
regarded apparel brands in India Raymond Premium Apparel, Park
Avenue, Parx and Notting Hill.

COLORPLUS FASHIONS LTD.

ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the premium
category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the
growing demand for a high end, casual wear brand in the country for
Men & Women.

SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.

A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits, trousers and
jackets.

EVERBLUE APPAREL LTD.

A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.

CELEBRATIONS APPAREL LTD.

A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.

J.K. HELENE CURTIS LTD.

A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries category.

J.K. INVESTO TRADE (INDIA) LTD.

JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of India
as Non-Banking Financial Company.

RING PLUS AQUA LTD.

A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive components

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 1.2 JOINT VENTURES

Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd.

The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics.

RAYMOND ZAMBAITI PVT. LTD.

A greenfeild facility manufacturing high value cotton shirting.

JK ANSELL LTD.
The manufacturers and marketers of kamasutra condoms and surgical
gloves.

JK TALABOT LTD
Joint venture with MOB outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps for
international markets.

10
 1.3 HISTORY

Figure 2: The Singhania's

Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various
businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in fulfilling his dream:
he set up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kilo meters away from
Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired this mill
and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen Mills

When the Singhania were looking for new regions to establish their presence and new fields to
venture into, they concurred that textiles appeared to hold promise. A piece of information that
a woolen mill was available on the outskirts of Bombay clinched the issue. When the grandson
of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill was primarily
making cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced woolen fabrics.

The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly in establishing the J.K.
Groups presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked upon
a gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization producing woolen fabrics of
a far superior quality. Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a world-class
factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen fabrics. At
Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurels

When Dr. Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh
vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr.
Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in
restructuring the Group. With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he
initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, more focused approach,
become market oriented and achieved a consolidated position

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Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 Crores conglomerate and is
Indias leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market share. It is also the largest
exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54 countries including Australia,
Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leader among
ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with its three brands Park Avenue,
Parx and Manzoni.

INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS
It all began with a small but significant order from Fiji for Rs. 7,000 worth of Raymond fabrics.
In the St. Eriks Fair in Sweden, a sizeable order was won and executed and ever since exports
have never looked back.

Today, Raymond is the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to over 58
countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. From winning the
first ever Government of India award for outstanding export performances, Raymond has
continued to win a number of export awards. Happily the export graph continues to rise
higherand higher.

Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The company
exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and to leading denim
wear brands like Levi's, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like Zara, H&M, Gap, Tommy
Hilfiger, etc.

RAYMOND EXPORTS MARKET

European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany, Greece),Japan, Turkey, Poland,
Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia, Hong Kong, Korea, Philippines,
Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. The products that Raymond Exports
are:
Fabrics
100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics
like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety of
finished and stretch properties both with and without Lycra.

Blankets
100% Wool, Wool Rich Blankets & Flannels.

Garments
Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade accessories such as Ties, Socks
Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.

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1.4 Raymond group structure

RAYMOND
GROUP

CMD

Group

Preside

President President Finance

HR

Textile Denim RAL RZPL Raymon JK Raymond

d Ansell Aviation
Rayond-

Celebration Kamasutra
EverBlue
Apparel
Ltd
The
Thane Raymond
Manzoni Shop
Chindwara
Park
Avenue
Vapi
Parx
Jalgaon
ColorPlus
SSAL
Notting Hill

Be:

Zapp!

13
 CHAPTER 2
ORGANIZATIONS DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION

14
2.1 RAYMOND LTD. GAURIBIDANUR
Raymond Ltd. Gouribidanur was inaugurated on 24th Oct. 2008.
This is a suits, jackets and trouser manufacturing plant.
The total area is 11 acres and the build-up area is 2, 00,000 sq. Feet.
Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, II is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Ltd. marking
the group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market.
The facility manufactures high end suits, formal trousers, jackets and vests catering
largely to export markets and are at par with best in class from USA and Europe.
The state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at the company's Gouribidanur plant
produces 6.06 lacks Jackets, 4.98 lacks Trouser & 0.46 lacks Vest coat annually.
Set-up at a total project cost of USD 10 million, the facility has a total built-up area of
9 acres feet and houses some of the highly rated equipment including CAD CAM.
Over the years the facility has significantly invested in people and processes to win
numerous awards both on manufacturing front and winning culture which has been
widely recognized.
Raymond ltd. Suit Plant is a 100% subsidiary of Raymond Group of Industries. Raymond
Group has become within a short period of time since its incorporation in 1925 a major global
conglomerate. The Group Raymond was set up as a textile Indian major and it has always
nurtured leadership and quality. The chairman and managing director of the group is Gautam
Hari Singhania.
The Label Raymond manufactures the finest fabrics in the world from wool worsted blended
suiting to wool to shirting of high value as well as ring specialty denims. Raymond Label is
one of the leading group in the designer wear, engineering tools & files, denim, air charter and
prophylactics services in both international and national markets, cosmetics & toiletries, and
fabrics. The group has a very wide range of more than 12,000 varieties of suiting that cater to
consumers across all age groups, styles, and occasions. Raymond Group after making its mark
in the textile sector entered the garmenting sector through ventures such as Ever Blue Apparel
Ltd, Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, and Celebrations Apparel Ltd and Raymond Ltd Suit Plant

15
Vision
Crafting world class formal wear and accessories for delivering The complete man globally,
whilst value adding to all the stake holders on a sustained basis.

Mission
Consistently manufacture quality garments with a global appeal and meeting the global
aspiration, always.

Create a paradigm shift in the quality of life under privilege sections of the community at large
by including and up skilling them, always.

Create a seamless and safe eco system of internal and external customers who would be
delighted to associate with us, always.
Contribute to the society by way of inventions for socio economic betterment particularly of
women, always.

Figure 3: SSAL II Journey

16
 2.2 INFRASTRUCTURE

The unit is Asias largest single floor suit manufacturing unit.

Raymond Group is equipped with many manufacturing units in Bangalore, Dodaballapura,
Gauribidanaur, Vapi, Mumbai, Chinwada. The Group is all set to establish a new
manufacturing unit near Hindupur (near Gauribidnaur). It will further enhance the production
capacity of the Group. Offices strategically located all over India are operating with a
commitment to excel. Ultramodern technologies lead the Group ahead of the competitors. It
plays the key role in producing the products of superior quality. The unique blend of modern
technologies from all over the world has enabled Raymond Group to maximize its capability.
The latest highlighted-tech machinery is used at every stage, from - designing (CAD), Cutting
(Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to Fusing.

CUTTING - The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber & Morgan spreader and cutter
that ensure 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process
with minimal waste and cost. The section also has Band Knife machine and fusing machines.
Most modern CAD systems from Gerber, Intellocut and Lectra are employed for Computerized
Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking System. The facility also has 5 CNC cutters.
Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are employed to achieve
intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration. Both machine and manual methods are
employed for cutting and spreading.

STITCHING - With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labour capable of
producing stylized garments with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech
infrastructure. The production lines are UPS based. The production lines are fully integrated
and operational with various types of powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus,
Pfaff, DA, & special machines like Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop
Attachment Machines, and Multi-Needle Kansai Special Machines & Special sleeve attaching
machine.

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FINISHING - Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality wrinkle
free finishing. Various pressing machines and heat transferring machines are available to
ensure improvement in high functional performance of the garment through specialty finishing.
There are 13 types of buck pressing machine for perfect finish.

INSPECTION - Silver spark has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with the
latest equipment. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all
the products. It is inspected that all the features demanded by the clients are designed or not.
The experts thoroughly check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are
delivered to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. Thats why utmost
care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the products are faultless.

2.3 ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE AT SSAL-II

The business is headed by Plant Head who, further, has functional heads supporting him:
Production Merchandising Head

Production Head (Jacket & Trouser)

Finishing Head (Jacket & Trouser)

Quality Head

HR/Admin Head

The respective managers of Trims Store, Cutting Department, Industrial Engineering, Sewing
Department, Quality, Finishing & Maintenance department directly report to the Plant Head.
The head of department has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Merchandising
Department. The Merchandising Department has a major role to play and is involved in every
stage of the product development. The Head of Merchandising heads the activities in the three
departments namely merchandising, purchase department and fabric department. The Head
(HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the IT
department.
The Plant Head reports to the General Manager for the various activities and major decision
making in the departments.

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 Fabrics &
Trims

Spreading &
Cutting
Jacket Sewing
Sewing
Trouser
Sewing

Asst. Plant Jacket

Manager Finishing
Finishing
Trouser
Maintenance
Finishing

Jacket Quality
Quality
Trouser
Quality
Director Plant Manager Warehouse

HR & Admin

IT

Purchase
Office
Functions
Planning

Accounts

EXIM

Flow Chart 1: organizational structure

19
2.4 DEPARTMENTS AT SSAL-II
The work flow of Raymond Ltd is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments.
Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of
Manufacture right from pre-production to post-production. There are 14 different departments
in Raymond Ltd. They are:
1. Merchandising Department
2. Sampling Department
3. Planning Department
4. Pattern Development
5. Fabric & Trims Store
6. Cutting Department
7. Sewing Department
8. Finishing Department
9. Warehouse
10. Quality Assurance
11. Industrial Engineering,
12. Human Resource & Administration Department
13. Information Technology Department
14. Training Department
15. Maintenance Department

All these departments are related to the process of production. The working of departments and
involved processes of production is explained further.

20
Process flow of the industry

Order
Order received Product Production
confirmation
from SSAL Merchandising Merchandising
at SSAL

Cutting Fabrics & Pre-Production

Cutting
Quality Trims Sample at
Department
Checking Department SSAL

Sewing Finishing
Sewing Finishing
Quality Quality
Department Department
Checking Checking

Customer
Shipment Warehouse Packing
or Buyer

Flow chart2: order process flow

2.4.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

In SSAL - II, there is no separate department for marketing/merchandising. Thus, the marketing
and merchandising activities are being carried out at Head Office and then coordinated. SSAL-
II has its in-house Production merchandising Department which takes care of the availability
of materials and trims required for production. Thus, SSAL-II procures materials required for
production from Head Office. This department acts as a mediator between Head Office and
Sampling & Production Department.
The Merchant are segregated Buyer-wise, the working of merchants includes to bring the
sample indent from Head Office to the Sampling Department of the Unit. Merchandiser is
involved in Style meetings which were done whenever a new style or sample had to be
developed.

21
 2.4.2 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Garment sampling is very important process. It is a model of what the bulk production to be
manufactured. The buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of
the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing because
it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product that would be manufactured.
This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples, this puts the
following at risk:
Placement of the order
Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced

The sampling department is in constant touch with the merchandising department, which is in
contact with the Head Office where the order is confirmed. The buyer supplies the specification
sheet depending on which the patterns are developed.
Objectives
Getting approvals from buyers based on the samples produced.
The Sampling Department develops the sample product from the base patterns which
are sent to the buyer for approval, if there are any changes or alterations to be done in
the sample of product then the buyer informs the Merchandiser who in turn asks the
Sampling Department to make the necessary changes in the sample product as per
requirement.
Getting pre-production approvals on the fittings, constructions, quality, fabric and trims
of the style.
Checking and analysing new styles, defining quality terms of new styles to production
department.
The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to produce
the garment.
The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that
particular garment.
Based on the sample garment the costing is been carried out.
When all the Pre-Production Sample is approved by the buyer, the Sampling
Department forwards the Production Marker, which has all the graded sizes of the
approved pattern to the Cutting Department. The Details Attached to the Garment
Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following

22
 details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both,
what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim, etc. they have used (if
applicable).
Ref no. and Style no. / Size
Colour
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity

Operating procedure

Merchant brings Tech Pack and Develops Sample Indent

Sample Indent is handed over to Sampling

Sampling Head conducts Style meeting

Collection of materials and trims

Development of Patterns and then Lay Report

Spreading and cutting of Fabric

Sewing In-Line

Finishing

Final Quality Audit

SCR fill

Sample handed to Company Merchant

Prepare Delivery Challan and Dispatch.

Flow chart 2: sampling process flow

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Style meeting
Sampling head conduct style meeting along with the Sampling Head
Pattern Makers, Spreading and Cutting, Head of Sewing Line, IE of Sewing Line, Quality
Department, Finishing and the company merchant of that buyer, where they discuss all the
specifications and technical issues related to the sample development so as to meet buyer
requirements. Afterwards the process of sample development initiates.
The first sample to be developed is the Proto-Type Sample. After the development of Proto-
Type Sample, it is sent to the buyer for its approval and feedback. After approval of Proto Type
Sample, FIT Sample is developed for base size of the buyer and then sent to buyer for
inspection and feedback related to fit of the product. Thereafter, Merchant receives the
feedback from the Buyer forwarded by the Head Office. The modifications suggested by the
buyer are improvised on the Size-Set Sample developed after FIT Sample.
Size-set sample is followed by a Size-set meeting which involves all members of Style meeting
for discussion on the buyer comments and to meet the buyer requirements. Size set sample is
not sent to the buyer, it is made by the factory for its own reference. Size-set sample
development is followed by Pre-production sample which is developed using actual fabric and
trims. Pre-production sample is then sent to the buyer for its final approval, meanwhile the
production of the garment in sewing line is initiated.
TOP Samples are sent to the buyer from the bulk production to bring to his knowledge the
quality of product being manufactured. These samples are sent only on buyer demand.
Note: All the samples for jacket and waist coat are developed in the sewing line itself while
trouser samples are developed in the sampling department.

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Types of samples

1. Proto sample
This is the first sample being prepared from substitute fabric in only one size. This
sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some case to buyer itself. The pattern prepared
for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. This sample is prepared just to get
the garment outlook and size.
2. Fit sample
Fit samples are those samples that are made after getting the order sheets. These
samples are needed to check the measurements, style, and fit. They can be made
available in similar fabrics in the actual measurements and specifications. In this
sample, all the technical specification of the product are mentioned. The accurate
dimensions of the garment are also specified.
3. Size set samples
This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit of different sizes of the
garment. In all sizes one sample is kept for reference.
4. Pre-Production samples
These samples are almost like the approval samples. They are made in actual fabric
with actual bulk trims. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. The Q.C.
in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser; the latter checked
and then sends it to the buyer.
5. Top samples
This is the sample been prepared in the production line during production hours. One
or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how it is
being stitched in the production line. Although none of the buyers demand a TOP
sample in this unit.
6. Garment package test
The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer spec
sheet. Colour fastness, strength, crocking of the sample in testing is done.

25
 2.4.3 PATTERN DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT

It is the job of the Pattern Masters in the Pattern Making Department to prepare the base
size pattern of a style from which samples are prepared.
These patterns are later modified according to buyer comments.
The Pattern Masters may either produce the patterns manually on cardboards or they
use the Software. This pattern is then used to cut the fabrics in Sample Production
Department.
They also discuss quality issues with nominated Buyer QA. It is responsible for
creating the patterns both hard and soft once the order has been confirmed.
They receive patterns from buyer but changes have to be made to it for perfect fit.
Grading is also their responsibility. They use Gerber software for their work.
They have a digitizer to digitalize manual patterns.
Their internal customer is Cutting, CAD and Sampling department.

2.4.4 PLANNING DEPARTMENT

Planning is done in excel sheet instead of any software.
Workflow

Monthly Order Quantity

Order Allocation among 3 Units according to Capacity

Tentative Order Planning Within the Unit

Order Allocation in Line according to Buyer Preference (if any)

Order Breakage according to Monthly Capacity of Line

Actual Planning as per Material Availability

Flow chart 3: Planning department work flow

Once Tentative Planning is done it is updated on a daily basis during VSM Meeting.

26
2.4.5 FABRIC & TRIMS STORE
Structure of the Department

store
executive

production
store In-
and quality
charge
engineer

assistant store
keeper

Flow chart 4: store hierarchy

Fabric Store
The fabric store is the central warehouse for the storage of fabrics required for production.
Fabric stores will take care of received fabric lot as per the standard procedures. When the
fabric is received from the supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will contain the
order reference number and the buyer name. The fabric rolls are then checked whether the
invoice quantity and the actual quantity are same or not. After finishing the formalities of fabric
inward bales will be stacked according to buyer/colors.
Main Functions of the Department:
Receive the fabric as per BOM.
Inspect the fabric.
Conduct set inspections.
Issue to spreading department as per plan.
Receive the end bits.
Type of fabrics stored in the department is:

Shell
Lining
Pocketing
Felt
Fusing
Canvas

Fabric Issue to:

Production for production pieces.
Sampling Department for sampling pieces.

27
 Layout of fabric store

Figure 4: layout of fabric store

28
Process flow of the Fabric Store:

Fabric received from the Supplier/mill.

Unloading

Stacking of goods in the racks

Bale opening

4 point inspection

Bar-coding

12 parameter inspection

fabric inspection report preparation

approval from different merchandiser

Receive requisition

Stage entry and Physically issue with bin-card updation

Flow chart 5: fabric store flow chart

The fabrics are inspected for:

Width
Shade
Weaving defects
Shrinkage (steam & fusing)
Nap direction
Centre to selvedge variation
Colour fastness
Hand feel
Face side
Bowing
Fusing seam slippage
Sponging and relaxation is done for preventing fabric shrinkage. All the rolls of fabric are
properly coded before loading onto racks.

29
The 4-Point System (ASTM D5430):

Penalty points must be less than acceptable tolerance i.e. 42pts per 100 yards.

This test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of
fabrics with requirements mutually agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier. This system
does not establish a given product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according
to their severity by assigning demerit point values.

Defect points:

Length of defect Defect Points

0 - 3 inches 1
3 6 inches 2
6 9 inches 3
Over 9 inches 4
Table 1: 4 point inspection

The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects. (A major defect is any defect that
would cause a final garment to be considered a second.)
Note:

1. No running yard shall be penalized more than 4 points for warp and Weft defects.
2. Defects appearing within 1 of either edge shall be disregarded.
3. Any hole other than a pin hole shall be considered a Major defect and assigned 4 points
for penalty.
4. Points per 100sq. yards= Total points scored in the bulk x 100 x 3
Width of the role (Inch) x Total yards Inspected

5. Points per 100s. Meter= Total points scored in the bulk x 100 x 100
Width of the role (cm) x Total yards Inspected

30
Parameters Followed In Fabric Store:
Width Report:

Width of 100% rolls is measured of the received lot

Standard Acceptance against specified width: (+, -) 2cm.

Shade Band Card

The cut fabric pieces are grouped or categorised in A, B, C, D and more as per the shade
band family.

Face Side Approval:

Test to approve the face side of the fabric.

Shade swatch A 6 piece across the width of roll is cut & checked for Right &
Wrong side of fabric.

Marking of face side and wrong is done to help decide the spreading process as per
the approval given by the merchant.

Hand Feel:
At the time of face side approval, hand feel is also being checked.

Shrinkage

Steam Shrinkage:
Steam shrinkage is carried out 10% for different types of fabric so as to avoid any
deviation from actual pattern of the garment during exposure to heat and moisture i.e.
pressing and finishing.

Process:
A square swatch of 30 cm is cut out from a roll and marked. Measurements are
taken width wise & lengthwise.
This swatch is passed through steam & left for some time for relaxation; percentage
is calculated and is added in pattern.
Standard Shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend):2-2.5 %
Standard Shrinkage for Wash Product : 2.5-3.5%
Fusing Shrinkage:
Shrinkage for fusing is measured as this can give way to various defects and handling problems.
In this process fabric and fusing are placed together.

31
 Fusing temperature/pressure/time depends on the fabric content as well as type of
fusing.
Standard Shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend): 2-2.5 %
Standard Shrinkage for Wash Product: 2.5-3.5%
Standard Fusing Bond Strength: 2 lbs. /1Kg.
Sample size
Fabric 30cm*30cm
Fusing 28cm*28cm

CSV- Centre to Selvedge Variation

1 2 3 4

The arranged sequence to check centre to selvedge variation

Table 2: CSV inspection

3 1 4 2
2 4 1 3

Standard Acceptance: Level 4-5 (Referred Grey Scale ISO International Standard 105/A030)
Shade Band Card:

To check Shade variation in a lot

To cut a sample piece -15x15 cm from all the rolls
All cut parts are grouped in light box as per customer requirement at 45 degree angle.
In case of shade variation within a lot, rolls are categorized into A, B, C, and D groups.
Standard Acceptance: Level 3-4 (Referred Grey Scale ISO International Standard
105/A030)
Grey scale for assessing change in colour.
The grey scale for colour change consists of nine pairs of standard gray colour chips,
each representing a difference in colour or contrast (shade and strength) corresponding
to a numerical fastness rating.

32
 While doing analysis with any of the above grey scale, as per standards, the surface
area needs to be illuminated with an artificial daylight/north sky daylight source with
illumination of 538 lux (50 lumens per square foot) or more.
The light should be incident upon the surfaces at 45 and the direction of viewing 90
to the plane of the surface. This is where the need for a colour matching cabinet comes,
to check the CSV variation of shade in a roll.
From a lot 10% of rolls are selected and a swatch is cut to identify CSV.
The swatch size is 5 X roll width.
Swatch is divided into 4 equal parts i.e. 1, 2, 3, and 4.
A shade band combining 3, 1, 4, and 2 is prepared.
As this condition is satisfied by a colour matching both having a 45 angle stand.
Color Fastness:

To check the fabric with Perchloro Ethylene (Commonly known as white petrol)
and steam water separately for colour fastness.
The assessment is being done by visually comparing the difference in colour or
contrast between the untreated and treated specimens with the differences
represented.
Color fastness is also checked by with wet rubbing in order to determine the
resistance of the color to rubbing.
Color fastness is also checked with dry rubbing in order to determine the resistance
of the color to rubbing.
Nap Direction:
The term with nap is used on sewing patterns and instructions; it affects the
amount of yardage needed, how the pattern is cut, how the Item is sewn and pressed.

To determine if a fabric has Nap, fold it right sides together matching the cut ends,
then turn one corner back

Check that the layers look and feel exactly the same. If they dont the fabric has
nap.

The design patterns of napped fabrics all lie in one direction; this makes the fabric
look different when viewed from different directions.

33
 When cutting out fabric with Nap it is necessary to cut the Fabric so that it will all
be running on one direction.

Bowing & Skewing

Bowing refers to the Defect which relates to the placement of any object Non parallel
to the straighten yarn in cloth structure.
Skewing is the fabric condition resulting when courses are angularly displaced from
line perpendicular to the edge of the fabric.

Type of Weaving Defects

Broken end: Yarn broken in a warp direction.
Broken pick: Yarn broken in a weft direction.
Coarse end/pick: A yarn having a large diameter than normal to the fabric.
Colour fly yarn: Waste fibbers of different colour are woven into the fabric has
contamination.
Double end: Two ends wrongly weaved as one.
Double Pick: Two picks wrongly placed in a single shed.
End out: A missing warp yarn.
Hole: Any broken yarns to form a hole.
Jerk In: An extra weft yarn jerked by the shuttle into the fabric along with a correct
pick of weft yarn.
Knot: Two or more ends of yarn tied together.
Miss pick: Missing a weft yarn.
Reed Mark: A defect resulting from a bent reed wire, characterized by a fine- lined
thin place in the warp direction.
Reed Streak: A warp wise streak caused by a damaged reed in weaving.
Shade Bar: A change in shade within a short duration across the width of the fabric.
Slub: A short abnormal thick place in a yarn
Soiled Filling: A weft yarn soiled by dirt or grease
Thick Place: Where the place of weft yarn greater in diameter than normal to the
fabric
Thin Place: Where the place of weft yarn is smaller in diameter than normal to the
fabric.

34
Machine Details

Table 3: machine details of fabric store

S. no. Machine Name Machine detail No. of machine Area

1 Sponging machine WESHI 1 Sponging area

2 Relaxation WESHI 1 Relaxation area

machine
3 Inspection WEISHI 7 Inspection area
machine
4 Shade Box WESHI 1 Shade box area

Inspection Machine
In inspection machine we do inspection of fabric in 4 point system.

Figure 5: inspection machine

Inspection Machine
Machine Details:
o Machine Model No.- Ybj-180
o Max Roll Diameter: 350mm
o Machine Speed: 6 8 M/Min
o Stretch Adjustment: 0-200n
o Total Power: 1.8 Kw
o Serial No: 08368b005
o Manufacturer: Shanghai Weshi Machinery Co., Ltd.
o Lux Required : 1400 - 1600

35
Sponging Machine
Sponging is done to control shrinkage in wool and wool blend fabric. This process is quite
effective in removing relaxation shrinkage and any inherent strains within the fabric structure.
It is applied to wool fabric before cutting to prevent possible contractions of the fabric in the
finished garment.
The machine has four different chambers where pre steaming, steaming and drying of the fabric
is done.

Figure 6: sponging machine

Machine Details

o Power Supply -380v

o Steam Pressure- 5kg/Cm2
o Steam Consumption- 100-150kg/H
o Rate Output Of Motor Kw -2.78kw
o Rate Output Of Heater Kw -15kw
o Working Width1800mm
o Speed: 3-8m/Min
o Dimension -4500*2500*2000m

36
Relaxation Machine

In relaxation machine the lycra fabric is relaxed to avoid shrinkage during the production
process as per the buyers requirement. The fabric is hanged for 24 hours and they are supplied
to the cutting department in the same condition.

Figure 7: relaxation machine

Shade Box Machine

Machine deals with the checking of the shade of the fabric.
Capacity:
The store capacity is around 3 lakh meters (including fusing & pocketing).

The value of materials stored is around 7-8 crores.

Daily issue of fabric: Trouser 4000 m & Jacket 6000 m

37
Trims Department

Figure 8: trim store

Objective:
To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
To do audit to check physical inventory

Function of Trims and Packaging Department

To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
To do audit to check physical inventory

38
Trim Store Layout

Figure 9: trim store layout

39
Working of Trims Store:

1. Incoming materials

2. Unloading

3. Temoporary storage of incoming goods

4. Quantity check

5. Quality check 2.5 AQL

6. GRN entry and storage in the racks

7. Receive requisition slip

8. Stage entry and Physically issue with bin-card updatation

Flow chart 6: trim sore work flow

Types of trims
Sewing Trims:

Sewing thread Stopper wire

Waist band lining Hook & Bar
Band Roll: Waist Band, loop Labels:
Fusing: Waist Band, Loop, Part o Size label
o Wash care label
Button
o Brand / Main label
Zipper tape
o Additional label
Zipper slider o Sleeve label

Finishing Trims:

Poly Bag Bullet tag pin

Carton Box Tag
Hanger Jet Clip
Cartoon box Staple Pin
Cello tape Size ring

40
 Quality Inspection

Table 4: AQL 2.5

Size in unit Sample size Max N` defectives

51-90 13 0
91-150 20 1
151-280 32 2
281-500 50 3
501-1200 80 5
1201-3200 125 7
3201-10000 200 10
10001-35000 315 14
35001 and more 500 21

Formula used for inspection of total quantity

Number of boxes * 2 = Number of packets should be inspected

Quantity should be matched with above table and.....
Number of pieces would be inspected = Sample size / Number of packets should be inspected
All trims in roll form are inspected for 10% of its quantity.
 Quality Inspection Instructions
Accessory Inspection Parameters as per 2.5 AQL
LABEL Shade variation
Parameters SHOULDER PAD
Uneven folding on sides Shape
Shade variation Notch
Incorrect print Fusing
Poor fastness to washing
JOKER TAG
THREAD Price
Parameters Ran number
Shade variation Item number
Wrong count Content
Ticket number Sub number

BUTTON BESOM TAPE

Parameters Fusible/not fusible
Shade variation
Raw edge HOOK & EYE / BUCKLE
Uneven thickness Damages
Content of metal used
W/C LABEL Article number
Composition
Country of Origin ZIPPER & SLIDER
Content Shade
Symbols uniformity
W/C instructions
Trim Details for Jackets:
Shoulder pad Armhole tape
Thread Double sided fusing with paper
Button Double sided fusing without paper
Size label Size ring
Neck label Poly bag
Wash Care label Carton
Sleeve label Hang tag
Main label or brand label Joker tag
COO (country of origin) label Sticker
Piping (if demand) Hanger
Bridle tape Strings
Besom tape Button pouch

Different tickets threads are used for different purposes.

They are long thin strands cotton, nylon or other fibers used in sewing which come in various
lengths and ticket numbers.
Table 5: thread and ticket number

Ticket number Used for

30 Gimp thread, Button hole
70 Button hole, Saddle stitch
80 Pick stitch
100 Top stitch
120 Top stitch, Shell thread, Pocketing, O/L
150 Lining
160 Over lock & surging
180 O/L trouser (JCP,PL,PS)
240 Bottom hem
360 Bottom hem
Ascolite Button wrapping
The thread being used is Guttermann. Each cone has 5000 meter of thread in it. Thread is
100% polyester and core yarn. This brand has got less thread breakage in comparison to other
thread manufacturer and helps in avoiding seam-puckering problem.

42
2.4.6 CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Prior to Spreading & Cutting patterns were developed in the CAD Department.
Structure of Department

Plant Manager

Asst. Plant
Manager

Executive Sr. Executive

Cutting Cutting

Executive
Executive
Cutting - Officer CAD
Cutting -Jacket
Trouser

CAM/Cutting CAM/Cutting
Operator Operator
Department Capacity:
1. Jackets
Solid: 3500 Pieces/day
Checks: 3150 Pieces /day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces /day
2. Trousers
Solid: 3600 Pieces / day
Checks: 3000 Pieces/ day

43
6.1 CAD Department
In CAD Department patterns were being developed by both methods. Major patterns were
made manually on cardboard and then digitized while other patterns of small parts were
developed in the software directly.
Work flow of CAD department

Recieve
hard
pattern

Digitize

Grading

Pattern
approval by
respective
pattern
masters

Marker
making

Actual Miniature
marker marker for
Soft copy to
print out for CAM cutting to
CAM
manual identify cut
cutting parts
Flow chart 7: CAD work flow

44
CAD Software Details:

Table 6: CAD software details

Software Uses
Gerber version 8.2 Pattern making, Pattern grading, Marker making

Morgan Technica Cut plan, Numbering sequence

Accunest Marker making of small parts

Cut issue & FCR generator Cut issue slip, Final cut report

The functions carried out in the CAD department are as follows:

Material resource planning
Cut Planning
Marker Making
Data Entry
Lay Report Generation
Pattern Plotting (if req.)

Marker Planning
Cutting department makes a marker plan after receiving following details:
Pattern detail from cad department

Fabric width detail from fabric store department

Fabric consumption from merchandising department

Procedures
Buyer send soft pattern or sketch

A pattern has to be developed as per sketch and digitize a soft pattern.

Note: Add shrinkage percentage length and width wise & fabric usable width in a pattern as
per details received from fabric department for a particular purchase order.

45
 A pattern to be approved by technical manager.

A sample garment to be developed as per approved pattern.

Sample to be approved by buyer; buyer sends comments & size ratio.

CAD technician is to do grading as per size ratio & specification sheet.

Sampling department is to develop size set & send to buyer for approval

Buyer will be place a purchase order

If buyer asked for pre-production sample, pre-production sample is to be developed and

buyer approval needs to be taken.

Simultaneously, Purchase/merchandising department has to procure fabric, trims and

accessories.

Bulk Production starts after taking approval of pre-production sample and buyer
comments taken into consideration.

Cutting department is to prepare the cut plan for a required purchase order as per
required size, ratio and colour.
Cad operator is to develop a marker plan as per required size, ratio and usable fabric
width

As per departmental planning, lay report, cut summary, mini marker & plotter marker
is to be generated & given to laying section.
For Bulk orders 8 way and 4 way markers were used instead of 2 way and 1 way.

6.2 Spreading
The spreading was being done manually as well as with the help of automatic spreader. It was
done manually in case of a high probability of occurrence of bowing or skewing problem in
the fabric, mostly when it comes to striped fabric. 80% of lining fabric was spread and end cut
manually because of bowing and skewing problem.

46
Workflow

1. Fabric is received from fabric store department along with following details:

Usable fabric width

Colour /shade code

Length of rolls
2. Spreading operator receive lay report from CAD consisting of following details:

Purchase Order

Style Number

Lay Number

Lay method Face up / Face to Face

Lot quantity

Marker length

Lay length

Usable fabric width

No of plies to be spread

Consumption

3. Spreading operator starts laying and in case of machine spreading, operator loads fabric
roll in the cradle of machine and set the machine parameter as per lay details.
4. After completion of each roll; operator have to mention following details in spreading
/ laying report:-
Roll reference number
Fabric roll width
Fabric usable width
Fabric roll length
Colour /shade code
Usage in meters
Balance quantity

47
 5. Spreading Check Points:
Stretch Warp way & Weft way
Fabric stability
Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill
Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply
Left side edge of fabric ply should be aligned to each other
Extreme ends of plies should be aligned
Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 more than the marker length
The fabric laid should never be less than marker width
Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required so.

No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with
white chalk

Load Fabric roll

Position the roll according to start selvedge

Specify the no. of rolls to be laid

Spread the perforated paper on lay table

Set up start end clamp determining lay length

Laying

Start air blow during transferring of lay to cutting m/c end

Flow Chart 8: Spreading process flow

48
Spreading Medium:

1. Manual Spreading:
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, is supported by a frame
and carried along the table where the end is
secured with the help of weights. After
laying one ply operator use rotary blade to
cut the end of the ply and then lay another
ply and so on. The operators work back
from the end, aligning the edges and
ensuring that there is no tension and that Figure 10: manual spreading

there are no wrinkles on the plies.

2. Machine spreading:
In Machine spreading first of all fabric roll is installed on the spreader and then end of the
fabric is hold by the catcher. As it lay the first ply, operator ensures that there are no wrinkles
in the ply and after laying one ply, end cutter cuts the end of ply and spreader moves to spread
next ply.
Spreading Machine
Gerber SY 101TT- 2 machines
Morgan Razor 1 machine

49
Spreading machine includes:

A motor to drive.
A platform on which the operator rides.
A ply cutting device with automatic catcher
to hold the ends of ply in place.
A ply counter.
An alignment shifter actuated by photo
electric edge guides.

Figure 11: machine spreading

Spreading Modes:
For Trousers
Solid: Face up
Checks and stripes: Face to face
Lining: Face up
Fusing: Face up

For Jackets
Shell(Solid, Checks and Stripes): Face to face
Lining: Face up
Fusing: Face to face
Sleeve lining:
o Stripe: Face to face
o Solid: Face up
Pin table used for spreading check and striped fabric.

50
 6.3 Pinning
Pinning is an additional step required for plaid matching (stripes and checks). In such cases,
Spreading is done on pinning tables. Pinning table consists of intermediate rows and columns of
needles /pins which were so placed that they can be removed in rows along the length by the means
of hand wheel. There were indications in the marker about the places where the plaid matching is
required and length from zero position will be given.
After the spreading process is complete the lay is transported to cutting process. During
transportation, the fabric lays are held together with the help of clamps to make sure that the
alignment remains same. Table blower is utilized to help in easy transportation.

6.4 Cutting
Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and automatic CNC cutter ; and sometimes
manual cutting with the help of scissor in case of recutting.

Figure 12: cutting

51
Workflow
1. Operator is to convert marker plan to a cut file, which get saved in Gerber Automatic
Cutter.
2. Operator moves lay near the cutting machine.
3. Operator checks for the width and alignment of lay with the help of laser beam installed at
the machine in order to ensure on grain cutting. Lay width should match with the required
width of a marker.
4. Operator checks left edge, right edge and starting point of lay. It should be parallel to the
laser beam i.e. usable area of fabric should be inside the laser beam. In last byte, operator
is to check left edge, right edge and ending point of lay with laser beam.
5. Operator is to press cutting command after confirmation of all the edges of every bite.
6. CAM cutter cuts the desired pieces as per cut plan. After cutting a complete byte, operator
collects cut parts (panel) from conveyor or belt and keep on a table. Similarly, operator
moves next byte in sequence, do cutting and collects cut parts (panel).
7. Operator marks upper most ply of every cut parts (panel) on the backside of fabric with
marking chalk that would help in doing correct numbering of every cut panel

Post Cutting Processes:

Numbering & Ticketing
Panel Check
Re-cutting (if any)
Fusing
Bundling

6.5 Numbering

After cutting, bundles are placed on numbering table for numbering / ticketing. Before cutting, a
poly sheet is laid on the lay, on which size of panels is mentioned. Numbering is done for lining
fabric panels while ticketing is done for shell fabric which have small stickers that includes size
and serial number of the panel. Operator do numbering /ticketing with the reference of lay report
which consists of information like:
o Lot number.
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies

52
Numbering Place Value

(a) For trouser, Numbering consists of 10 digits

Digit Nomenclature
1 First number of waist size
2 Second number of waist size
3 First number of inseam size
4 Second number of inseam size
5 to 10 Serial number

In presentation, it is written below as follows: -

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ i.e. (1 To 10,000 Serial No)
Waist Inseam Serial Number

For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.

(b) For Jacket numbering consists of 8 digits

Digit Nomenclature
1 Number of front buttons
2 Fixed alphabet S, that stands for size
3 to 5 Jacket size
6 to 8 Serial number of panel

For a particular colour of purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
As per jacket size and serial number, digit number varies.

Numbering Check Points:

Face side and backside should be checked with swatch card.
First ply of layer should be observed properly.
Numbering should be done on backside of panel.
Number should not skipped
Number should be clear & at defined position.
Numbering should vanish after required time period.
Numbered parts should be bundle correctly.

53
6.6 Panel Checking
Quality checking is an essential process for checking for visual defects in parts concentrated on
weaving defects. This is essential a quality department process in which cut panel in random is
checked for the dimensional accuracy by placing the top, middle, and bottom ply of any bulk parts
on graded nested patterns. This process is usually performed to make sure that after cutting process
and fusing, the part dimensions are intact. Any defect found here is sent for re-cutting, where parts
are cut manually.
Operator has to do inspection on 2.5 Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) bases. If lot gets rejected
on 2.5 AQL bases, then go for 100 % inspection.
100 per cent checking is done on Size sheet which contains pattern of different sizes. Panel
checking is not done for small parts like bone, flap, pocket lining, etc.

(a) Cut panel pattern inspection: Operator is to inspect panel against respective
pattern for
o Size
o Shape of panel
o Notch
.
(b) Fabric defect inspection: Operator has to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual
panel is to get inspected for following defects: -
o Yarn defects,
o Weaving defects,
o Finishing defects,
o Cutting defects, and
o Spreading defects.
Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass checking table-having light 500-600 Lux.

Operator has to remove defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in Check
Point Format. Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to re-cutting section by
maintaining record of following details in internal re-cutting format.
Purchase Order
Style name
Color
Part Name or Number
Lay number
Serial number

54
Note: Re-cutting section is to recut panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective panel
of a lay, do numbering and if necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection section.
Operator has to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a record
before issuing to sewing section.

Points to be noted during inspection:

Cut panel inspection is to be conducted in a separate sub-section in cutting department.

The defect standards to be displayed in subsection: i.e. acceptable, rejected is clearly
marked and displayed separately.
Replacement of defective part is to take place from same roll or same roll end-bits to avoid
any shade variation.

Panel Inspection & Matching Point:

Operator has to inspect & match respective panel as follows:

JACKET - Front Panel

o Size, shape and notch
o Front panel to side panel
o Front- dart cut at same point
o Right front to left Front
o Front to top sleeve
o Front panel flap pocket
o Front panel to chest pocket

Back Panel
o Size shape & notch
o Back panel to collar
o Back panel to back panel centreline
o Back panel to side panel

Sleeve
o Size, shape and notch
o Top sleeve to under sleeve

Lapel
o Size, shape and notch
o Lapel to lapel
o Lapel to front panel

55
TROUSER -Front Panel:
o Size shape and notch
o Front panel to back panel
o Front panel to pocket facing

Back Panel
o Size shape and notch
o Back Panel to back panel at seat seam.

Waist band
o Right waist to left waistband
o Left waistband to left extension

Note: Solid fabric inspects size, shape & notch. Checks & Strips inspects size, shape, notch &
matching point as mentioned above.

6.7 Re-cutting
Re-cutting was being done for defective or damaged panels in cutting. Generally darning was also
done in the same area. Re-cutting was generally done for the missing pieces from cutting, i.e.
panels which had some fabric related issues.

6.8 Band Knife

Parts which are cut as bigger blocks in pinning are brought here and matched against each other to
make sure that the plaid matching is achieved. The plaid matching is essential for standard features
of any stripe/ checks garment. As in pinning, there will be underneath needle which are set at the
desired position and the parts can be adjusted as per the plaid repeat requirement. After the
requirement parts are matched, they are tied together by means of knotting. Then ready patterns
are placed over the bulk plies and bound by means of end clips. Care should be taken here to make
sure that the grain line remains the same while placing the ready patterns.
After this, the parts are taken for band knife cutting on band knife machine. Band knife machine
essentially consists of a revolving knife placed on pulleys run by motor. The knife generates a
vibrating movement which will enable cutting process. Hand gloves are mandatory while operating
this machine.

56
 6.9 Fusing
Fusing process is one of the most important processes in cutting department. Fusing materials
essentially provide strength, stiffness and stability to the garment and adds to the presentation of
the garment.
Before fusing, the fusing machine must be set as per the required parameters for particular fabrics
and fusing. A standard guideline about the fusing setting will be given from fabric section. Another
important process here is Fuse Line Bond Testing. Bond testing is a process of mechanically testing
the fuse line pressure (in kgs) by means of mechanical weight scale. The process is performed at
starting of any new style and the same displayed alongside the machine. Also the fusing machine
are tested for temperature manually by means of temperature thermo strips twice a day to make
sure temperature calibration is intact , since the machine is influenced by outside weather and
climate.
The most important area of garment construction where an alternative process has significantly
taken over from sewing is in the attachment of interlinings. On large parts such as jacket fronts,
the attachment of interlinings by sewing is expensive and requires a skill if a high standards is to
be achieved. The alternative process which has been developed is that of fusing.

Types of fusing used in the plant:

1. Body Fusing- They are basically a knitted fusing, which is fused at front panel of the jacket and
also sometimes at lapel, depending upon buyer requirement. They are generally white or black in
color.

2. Part Fusing-They were basically non-woven fusing, which were fused at different part of the
panels like collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap etc.
They are generally white or charcoal in color.

3. NR Fusing- They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing. They
are used to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder .They are
generally white or black in color.

4. White Fusing This fusing is named after its color. It is used in few parts of panel which are
as buyer requirement.

57
Fusing Machines:
There are 9 fusing machine used in SSAL-II, of which 7 is used for jacket components and rest 2
for trouser panels. The fusing machines used for jacket fusing are as follows:

Machine type .No. of machine

Kannegiesser 5
Weishi 1
Reliant Cool stream 1

ManPower for Fusing: There are 10 operators for feeding the parts and 1 operator for collecting
these parts. The distribution for each part is as follows:
Feeding:
Front 3 Operators
Back and top-sleeve 3 Operators
Side-panel and In-sleeve 1 Operator each
Lapel 1 Operator
Small Parts 1 Operator
Note- Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt, Bone and Flap.
Operator is to observe lay report to know following details:
o Lot Number
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies
o Serial number

Normally working parameters are as follows:

Buyer Temperature Pressure Speed

Raymond 130 150 degree C 3 Bar o m/min

58
Once working parameters are approved, operators is to observe following things before starting
bulk fusing operation:
o Correct shell and fuse type.
o Correct shell and fuse size.
o Correct shell and fuse color and shade.
o Correct working parameter of a fusing material.
.
Operator has to pass material gently on the conveyor belt of fusing machine and collect fused
material gently without any fold or wrinkle. Operator has to do fusing panel wise, size wise and
color wise.

Figure 13: fusing

Parts Which Need Fusing:

Jacket

Front- Armhole, Shoulder, Neck, Dart.

Lapel- Lapel Fusing, N R Fusing Piece.
Top Sleeve- Sleeve Armhole Fusing With Moon Patch, Bottom Fusing.
Back- Shoulder, Neck, Back Armhole, Bottom and Vent.
Side Panel- Armhole, Bottom.
In Sleeve-Armhole, Bottom.
Waist Coat

Front- Front Edge, Armhole, Shoulder, Body

Side Panel- Armhole, Bottom
Facing-Lapel, Bottom, Neck
Trouser

Waist Band
Right And Left Fly
Bone

59
 2.4.7 SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing departments function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This is the
place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is loaded to
the sewing department for the sewing.
The sewing section at SSAL II comprised of:
1. Jacket Lines

2. Trouser Lines
There were 7 jacket lines out of which Line 7 was involved in manufacturing jacket as well as
waistcoats. Trouser section had 6 lines. Each line had a Production Executive, Line Incharge,
Quality Checker and an Industrial Engineer. But in Line 7 there was no Industrial Engineer.
Department Capacity:
Jackets: 3500 Pieces/day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces / day
Trousers: 2900 Pieces /day

Line wise Details for Jacket & Waistcoat

Production I.E. Technician Quality Quality In- Line In- Manpower

Executive Manager Executive charge charge

Line -1 Vimal Shrawan Davis R K Das Anil James Mokhtar 103

Line -2 Vimal Laches Davis R K Das Ranjan Ravi 111

Line -3 Rakesh Prashant Davis R K Das Ved Prakash Ajay 113

Line -4 Sandeep Prashant Davis R K Das Anji Bablu 106

Line -5 Tushar Shrawan Davis R K Das Padam Gopal 99

Line -6 Ankit Laches Davis R K Das Ramamji Sunil 103

Line -7 Anupam ---------- Davis R K Das Roja A Tara 85

Reddy

60
 1. Jacket Section

Types of Jackets that were being made at SSAL II are as follows:

Half Lining (Butterfly Lining )
No vent
Single Centre Vent
Double vent (one on each side)
Full Lining

Various type of materials used in Jacket were:

Shell fabric
Lining fabric
Knitted fusing
Parts Woven fusing
Woven Reinforcement
Canvas
Felt

61
 Total no. of Panels in a Jacket
Table 7: shell parts of a jacket

Shell Fabric
Part Cut Panel/s
Front 2
Back 2
Side Panel 2
Front Facing 2
Top Sleeve 2
Under Sleeve 2
Breast Pocket 1
Breast Pocket Facing 1
top Collar 1
Collar Band 1
Front pocket Bone 2
Front Pocket Flap 2
TOTAL 20

Table 8: small parts of a jacket

Small Parts
Part Cut Panel/s
Chest Felt 2
Chest Canvas 2
Small Chest Canvas 2
Patti 2
Big Chest Canvas 2
Sleeve Head Felt 2
Sleeve Head Canvas 8

62
Table 9: lining parts of a jacket

Lining Fabric
Part Cut Panel/s
Back 2
Front 2
Side body 2
Top sleeve 2
Under sleeve 2
Cigarette pocket lining 1
Welt pocket 2
Front arm tape 1
Flap lining 2
Triangle flap 1
Cigarette pocket bone 1
Cigarette pocket face 1
In pocket facing 2
In pocket bone 2
Pocket face 2
Sweat shield 4
TOTAL 29

Table 10: total parts of a jacket

Small Parts 20
Lining Parts 29
Shell Parts 20
Parts Fusing 14
Reinforcement 3
Knitted Fusing 5
TOTAL PARTS (JKT) 91

63
Trims & Accessories used in a basic jacket
1) Shoulder pad
2) Thread
3) Satin tape
4) Size label
5) Neck label
6) Content/Care label
7) Sleeve label
8) Main label or brand label
9) Bridle tape Felling tape
10) Armhole tape
11) Double sided fusing with paper
12) Double sided fusing without paper
13) Poly bag
14) Hanger

Jacket section is composed of:

Small Parts Section- Chest Canvas, Pocket Flap, Collar , Sleeve Head Roll, Breast Pocket
Front Section
Lining Section
Sleeve Section
Assembly Section
The sewing SAM for a basic Jacket is approx. 65-70 min. The Jacket line follows the UPS system
of production. The material moves on pneumatically controlled overhead hangers. The target
output for each Jacket as well as Waistcoat line was 500 pieces/day while the standard WIP of the
line was 356 Jackets. Every line has an installed Kanban board which displayed the real time WIP
of the line. Apart from Kanban board, there was a Production counter which displayed real time
output of the line.

64
 Process Flowchart of Jacket
1. Front Section

Front Side Panel A/H Tape

Dart Stitching Dart Pressing
Marking Attach Attach

Breast Pocket
Pocket Pocket Zig- Breast Pocket Side Panel
Marking &
Welting Zag Attach
Making Buck Press

Pocket Bag
Pocket Chest Canvas Chest Canvas
Flap Making Attach &
Pressing Ready Pressing
Finish

SH Pad Blind Hem on

SS Join A/H Cutting Body Pressing
Basting Canvas

Bottom Press
Lining A/H SH Pad Press
SS P ressing & Lapel SH Seam JOin
Attach & Fuse
Breakpoint

Inspection

Flow Chart 9: front section

65
 2. Lining Section

Peninsula & Peninsula

Saddle Stitch Lapel Attach Facing Pressing
Patch Attach Facing Pressing

Pocket Bag Main Label Pocket Bag Welt Pocket

Lining Welting
Attah & Close Attach Bartack Press

Side Panel CB Join With Collar Attach &

SS Join All Seam Press
Attach Pleat Neck Close

Briddle Tape George Seam Bartack at CB

Inspection SH Seam Join
Attach Press Lining

Flow Chart 10: lining section flow

3. Collar Section

Collar & Collar

Felt Attach Collar Edge Collar
Neck Band Piping Basting
to Collar Stitch Pressing
Press Pressing

Flow Chart 11: collar section flow

66
 4. Sleeve Section

Sleeve Elbow Elbow

Shamhole Vent Cuff
Fusing Seam Seam
Sew Making Pressing
Pressing (Shell) Pressing

Lining Lining
Elbow Inseam Inseam Button
Attach to Inseam
Tacking Press Close Sew
Shell Sew

Sleeve
Sleeve Sleeve
Gathering
Tacking Final Press
Stitch
Flow Chart 12: sleeve section flow

5. Assembly Section

Collar Zig- Front Edge Front Edge

Pairing Peak Sew Trimming
Zag Basting Sew

Sleeve Front Edge

Bottom Bottom
Head Lapel Press Peak Press seam Open
Press Attach
Making Press

Sleeve
Lapel Buck Sleeve A/H SH Pad
Head Roll Basting
Press Attach Pressing Attach
Attach

Lining
Sleeve Collar SH Basting
Vent Kinari A/H Close Bastingat
Kinari Topstitch At A/H
A/H

B/H &
Hanger Bartack at
Flowerhole B/H Trimming Inspection
Marking Loop B/H End

Flow Chart 13: assembly section

NOTE: Process flow may vary from style to style as per buyer requirements.

67
 2. Waist Coat
Waistcoat was being manufactured in Line 7. Line 7 also manufactures Jackets but it depends on
the order and its quantity.
Line Executive Line Quality Manpower No. of No. of
Technician Checker Operations Machines
7 Anupam Ravindra Roja A 85 60-65 52
Kumar Kumar Reddy

Number of operations vary from style to style and also includes helping operations.
No. of Panels in a Waist Coat
Table 11: waist coat shell parts

Shell Fabric
Parts Cut Panel/s
Front 2
Side Panel 2
Front Facing 2
Welt Pocket 4
Front pocket Bone 4
Bottom Facing 2
Neck Patch 1
TOTAL 17
Table 12: waist coat lining parts

Lining Fabric
Part Cut Panel/s
Back 4
Front 2
Side body 2
Rectangular Tab 2
Triangular Tab 2
Pocket Lining 8
TOTAL 20
Total number of Panels in a Waist Coat = 37
68
 Process Flow of Waistcoat:
1. Small Parts section

Flow Chart 14: small parts W/C

2. Front & Back Section

Flow Chart 15: front and back flow W/C

69
 3. Lining Section

Flow Chart 17: Lining section flow W/C

4. Assembly Section

Flow Chart 16: assembly section flow W/C

70
 3. Trouser
There were 6 trouser lines in the unit and the operation of Trousers line is categorized into three
sections:
Preparatory section
Front and back line
Assembly line.

In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment are made and graded for the production.
Then it is send to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of a trouser are
made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts.
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on waterfall
trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS system. The material flow is on manually
controlled overhead trolleys.

Line Details of Trouser

Production I. E. Line Technical Quality Quality
Executive Incharge Manager Executive Incharge
LINE - 1 Dheeraj and Jubai ----- Narendra Dev Krishan
Sumit Apa
LINE - 2 Dheeraj and Jubai ----- Narendra Dev Anand
Sumit
LINE - 3 Dheeraj and Ram ----- Narendra Dev Aswath
Sumit
LINE - 4 Dheeraj and Ram ----- Narendra Dev Babu Khan
Sumit
LINE - 5 Dheeraj and Ram Hari Narendra Dev Vasanth
Sumit Babu
LINE - 6 Dheeraj and Jubai Hari Narendra Dev Muthu
Sumit Babu

71
 The different types of trousers made are:
Trouser with Knee Lining
Double pleated
Single pleated
Flat front
Process Flow
1. Preparatory Section

Pocket W/ B & Loop

Loop Sew W/B Fusing W/B Folding
Autofacing Pieces Join

Cut & Gaze Zip Zip Attach to Fly Left Fly Binding Right Fly O/L Fuse Fly & Bone

Right Fly Attach Front Pocket Front Pocket

to Left Fly Bag Close TopStitch

Flow Chart 18: preparatory flow of trouser

2. Front and Back section

Panel
Knee Dart Pairing
Serging Sew Back Back Rise
Lining Pressing & (Front,
with Knee Darts Binding
Pinking Fusing Back, W/B)
Lining

Front Attach Back Back

B/H Back Pocket
Pocket Front pocket Pocket
pocket Topstitch
Pressing pocket Pressing Welting

Button Back
Bartack Run Stitch
Attach to Lock Top Pocket Pocket Stay
Back Back
Back Welt Main Label Stitch
Pocket Pocket
Pocket Attach

Left &
Seam Inseam Front Rise
SSJoin Right Fly Facing O/L
Bursting Join Serging
Attach
Flow Chart 19: front and back flow trouser

72
 3. Assembly 1

Pocket
Booking & Loops & W/B Attach W/B
Loops Attach W/B Attach
Side Pocket Marking Lining
Locking

Lock W/B
Hook & Bar Attach Right
J- Stitch Press Fly Extension&
Attach Fly Lining
Turn

Slider & Brad Press Seat

Front Rise ES Right Fly BAck Rise Sew
Attach Seam

Flow Chart 20: assembly 1 trouser

4. Assembly 2

Bartack at B/H on Button Attach

Pocket & Fly Loops Down Waistband on Waistband
Bartack

Bottom Pintack at Curtain Fell

Loops Finish
Overlock Waistband Waistband

Button Loop Cutting

Bottom Hem Tack Crotch
Wrapping, & Triming

Flow Chart 21: assembly 2 trouser

73
Structure of a Sewing Line

Director

Asst. Plant
Manager

Production Production
Executive Executive

I.E I.E.

Technical
Manager

Quality
Executive

Line Incharge

Team Leader Team Leader Team Leader

Operators

Flow Chart 22: Sewing line structure

74
 2.4.8 FINISHING DEPARTMENT

The objectives of finishing are:

o Improve the appearance of the garments

o Improve the drape by pressing
o Improve the durability of the garments
o Packing for dispatch

The finishing facility at Raymond is highly mechanised with modern state of art machinery. It is
used for both jackets as well as trousers. The finishing process for jackets and trousers is as given
below:

Jacket Finishing

Figure 14: jacket finishing

No. of Jacket Finishing Lines: 6

Jacket Finishing Capacity: 500
Machines Brands- Weishi
Operators in finishing section
75
Jacket Finishing Department Structure

Mr.Deepak Kumar
(Jacket Finishing Head)

Mr.Deodutt (I.E)

Mr. Manish Kumar Mr.Murgan Mr.Ramavatar

(Supervisor) (Supervisor) (Supervisor)

Team Team Team Team Team Team

Leader Leader Leader Leader Leader Leader

Operators Operators Operators Operators Operators Operators

Flow Chart 23: jacket finishing organizational structure

Process Flow
It involves the following steps:

Spot Sleeve Back Front Shoulder

Washing Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing

Collar Elbow Lining

Nipping Blocking
Pressing Pressing Pressing

Button Wrapping Lapel Quality

Touch-up
Attach & Knotting Pressing Check

Auditing Packing

Flow Chart 24: jacket finishing process flow

76
Washing of garments:
1. Tools used:
Air gun/chemical gun
Boiler water/ per-chloro ethylene/ surgical spirit.
2. Functions:
To remove white pencil mark per-chloro ethylene is used.
To remove water mark, patch mark, pen mark surgical spirit is used
Pressing:
Sleeve press
Back press
Front press
Elbow press
Shoulder press
Collar press
Nipping(under armhole press)
Blocking(outer armhole press)
Lining press
Lapel press

Packing:
Brand tag.
Size ring.
Joker tag.
Hanger sticker.
Poly bag
Sleeve label
Hang tag
Extra Buttons (2 buttons ; 1- 24L and 1- 32L)

77
 TROUSER FINISHING

Figure 15: trouser finishing

Trouser Finishing Department Structure

Mr.Sunil Kola
Trouser Finishing Head

Mr.Anappa
Supervisor

Team Leader Team Leader Team Leader

Flow Chart 25: finishing organizational structure

78
Process Flow
No. of Trouser Finishing Lines: 6
Trouser Finishing Capacity: 600
It involves the following steps:

Thread Thread
Legger
Trimming sucking/Dusting

Topper Touch Up Spotting

Quality Check Packing

Flow Chart 26: trouser finishing flow

The trouser finishing department is very small as compare to jacket finishing. It includes
following sub-processes.
1. Spot cleaning
Uses spirit or per-chloro ethylene for spot cleaning purpose.
2. Legger press
3. Topper press
4. Packing
Brand tag.
Size ring
Poly bag
Bar code
Hanger
Cartons
Waistband tag
Poly bag stickers

79
2.4.9 WAREHOUSE
A ware house is the storage area for the finished goods.
Total capacity of warehouse
Total no. of workers - 18
Total capacity of jackets 62720
Total capacity of trousers not fixed, trousers entered warehouse packed in cartons, and
were kept in a specific area, no specific place was made available for it.
Machine used Bar Code Scanner.
Total No. Of Racks - 23
Warehouse Department Structure

warehouse
Incharge

assistant
warehouse
incharge

supervisor team leader

Flow Chart 27: warehouse organizational structure

CHECKLIST FOR PACKAGING

Sleeve Label
Joker Tag
Hang Tag
Hanger
Size Ring
Poly Bag Stickers
Audit cannot be offered unless the whole lot is completed .Audit is carried out both externally and
internally, though all buyers expect EXPRESS allow internal audit, whereas for EXPRESS, Lee
& Fung offers audit service. In case of late shipment, air shipping of order is conducted, else all
orders are exported through ship.
80
Process Flow
The process followed in the finished goods warehouse is as follows:-

Scan the incoming gmts

Issue of location plan

Store as per location plan/highlight qty and PO on board

Issuing order note from merchandiser to W/H in charge

W/H incharge to prepare pkg list in excel

Issuing it for quality and ware house

Quality audit

Container inspection and taking the pictures of empty container

Manual counting of gmts by security personnel

Loading of gmts into the container

Taking image of loaded container and sealing

Dispatch

Flow Chart 28: warehouse process flow

81
2.4.10 QUALITY ASSURANCE

Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stage of the production. The Quality
Assurance Departments function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and trims
reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues
throughout the cutting and sewing processes. After each section the quality checks are done and
in the finishing department a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of any
defects, finally approve the trousers and jackets for packing.

Organization Chart

Sr. Manager Quality Assurance

B.K. SHARMA

Fabric & Trims Store

Dushmanth

Cutting
Mubharak

Jacket Sewing
R. K. Das

Trouser Sewing
Debsopan

Jacket Finishing
Nikhil/Deodutt

Trouser Finishing
Ram
Flow Chart 29: quality organizational chart

Objectives of Quality Department

The objective of quality department is impart quality in the product.

To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
82
For Jackets the Quality Check points are as follows:
Panels Quality Check after cutting
Section wise checking is done keeping in mind various quality check points. Sections are
: Front and Back Section , Lining Section , End Line.

Random Measurement done at three points:

Front and Back Section
End Line
After finishing auditor checking is done (At warehouse level, internal audit) .

For Trousers the following are the Quality Check points:

Panels Quality Check after cutting

Inline Checking
Random Measurement is done at
o Inline
o End Line
After finishing auditor checking is done (At warehouse level internal audit is done).

QC IN STORES

Raw Material Inspection

Quality in store

Checking of product against approved fabric, fabric trims

and trims

Checking fabric for 12 parameters and generation of 12

parameter report

Report sent to CAD department

Flow Chart 30: raw material inspection flow

83
Quality in Cutting

Quality in cutting department

Checking of cut parts

Checking of fabric lay and count no of plies as per marker

layout

Check marker for all parts

Flow Chart 31: quality in cutting

Quality in Fusing

Quality in fusing

To check sorting

To check correct pairing for sewing

Flow Chart 32: quality in fusing

84
Quality in sewing

Quality in sewing

100% inline inspection

End line 100% inspection

Pieces sent to finishing

Flow Chart 33: quality in sewing

Quality in finishing

Quality in finishing

Checking of pieces for pressing,packing and button placement

Checking of carton marking and packing method

Flow Chart 34: quality in finishing

85
Quality Parameters to Be Followed At Final Checking
Jacket Front

1. No wrinkle and leaping at the top collar.

2. Sharpness at the george.
3. Canvas settlement to be checked and looseness is to be avoided.
4. Flower hole is to be neatly stitched.
5. Breast pocket should be neat and clean giving a very good look.
6. Darts are to be stitched neatly.
7. Proper fitting of sleeves required avoiding the twisting. The sleeves should cover two third
of the welt pockets.
8. The sleeve fall should be proper.
9. The welt pocket flaps should match with the body to give a descent look.
10. The welt pockets should be checked for any defect at the bar tack position.
11. The pockets are to be checked for any puckering.
12. The bottom hem should be neat and pucker free.
13. Front cut should be well-shaped.
14. The lining fullness and hand stitch quality should be checked at the cuff.
15. Buttons should be properly placed without damage.
16. Button hole placement should be perfect with neat stitch.
17. Lapel balance and notch tip balance as well symmetry is a must.
18. The lapel break line should be neat with proper fullness.
19. Over lapping is required at the back seat to prevent the centre back lining seam from any
kind of view.
20. Armhole at seam should be neat and clean, and checked for any dimples.

Jacket back:

1. Collar at the back should be checked for balance, matching and setting.
2. The shoulder should be checked for puckering and looseness.
3. There should not be any wrinkle at the under arm.
4. Sleeve elbow stitch and in seam are to be checked for proper fullness.
5. Button stitch and placement is to be checked.
6. Balance and fullness is to be checked in the vent(s).
7. Good shape and silhouette is required at the hip area in the back.

86
 8. Bottom hem line should be beautiful and pucker less.
9. Back side seam should be checked for puckering.
10. The centre back line is to be checked for puckering.

Jacket inside:

1. Neck band should be checked for fullness.

2. Sleeve attach tacking should be neat.
3. Sleeve back tacking should be neat.
4. Sleeve back blind stitch should be neat and clean.
5. The inside pockets should be checked for proper bar tack and welt width.
6. Facing and lining join should be proper and pucker free.
7. Front edge should be neat and clean.
8. Facing should be properly placed.
9. Bottom hem should be perfect without any puckering.

87
 2.4.11 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

Process flow of working of the IE department

Calculate SAM of garment freshly ordered to calculate different consumptions

Work measurement of a new confirmed order

To advice production department on garment SAM and

Maintains Daily Production Report

To calculate line efficiency

To calculate operators efficiency

Grade change

Time and method study

Line balancing

Check for work aid and compliances

Preparation of incentive scheme

Flow Chart 35: IE process flow

88
Organisational structure of IE

Mr.Raghvendra
Kulkarni
IE HEAD

CUTTING SEWING

Ms.Priyanshi
Jacket Trouser
Singh

Mr.Shrawan Mr.Prashant Ms.Diksha

Mr.Zubair
Kumar Kumar Pandey

Flow Chart 36: IE organizational structure

89
Work of IE during Order Procurement

On order procurement, IED

calculates the thread
consumption & trim
consumption.

On order confirmation,IED
prepares Operation Bulletin

On the basis of Operation

Bulletin , works on SAM and
plans line on 75% efficiency.

Allots total no. of operators

Sends requirement of
operators , machines &
folders to PPC .

Requirement of
machines,folders & guides
sent to Maintenance dept.

Line layout prepared in a

unidirectional flow.

Flow Chart 37: Responsibilities of IE

90
Skill Matrix Updation & Daily Production Report
Besides, the IED maintains the skill inventory which is updated every month.
IED also keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the daily WIP report and daily
production report which is sent to the PPC department.
Apart from this the IED also takes care of the work methods that are being used on the floor.
Besides, the IED also plans and balances the line on a daily basis keeping the absenteeism and
other factors in consideration.

The different functions of the IED are as follows:

Calculation of cost : The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the
productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the
accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising
department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these
aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the
cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing
it.
Style Bulletin: The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style
bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for the
garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has to be
carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and approval.
Types of thread (TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location
different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the finished
garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried out will also
be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains
more technical data than that.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they
update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the
garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average
efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day or
not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch setting
prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
91
2.4.12 IT & MIS DEPARTMENT
The company has a fully functional IT department which takes care of the MIS and the ERP of the
company. The IT department is responsible for documenting all the transactions taking place in
the company.
There are two software Stage and Proman that are being used for the purpose. Stage is
Inventory Management software while Proman takes care of all the production related activities.
Once the order is confirmed, a new account is added in the software which generates the work
order no. And after the Work Order number has been generated all the information related to that
order can be traced using that number.
The IT department has data entry operators who regularly enter the information into the software.
The main functions of IT department are:
Dealing with MIS
Maintenance of all hardware like computers, scanners, printers, Xerox machine, and
fax machines etc.
Dealing with ERP

Raymond also has their own intranet which connects all the computers in that network. All the
data is stored in their database called ITPC and for mailing purposes employees were using Office
Outlook.

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2.4.13 TRAINING DEPARTMENT
Unit have their own training department named as RTI (Raymond Training Institute.) This
department falls under the HR section. The RTI is a new initiative of Raymond unit. Through this
they try to improve the skills of operators without hampering the output of the factory. In Raymond
they train the employees in such a way that they achieve the desired output.

Figure 16: training section

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There were various stages of the RTI session, they are as follows:
STAGE I
At this stage, the newly joined operators are first trained with minimum language skills like the
basis English alphabets and numbers. They are also taught Basic English sentences like saying
their name, what work they are doing, how much they have made and how much they will make.
In this they are also teach the hygiene and safety issues.

STAGE II
In the second stage the operators perform paper exercises. In this they are provided papers with
different patterns made on it. The operators have to stitch as per the patterns on the paper. This is
done in order to improve the operators control on the machine. These paper exercises are
evaluated by the training in- charge and based on the performance operators were given
promotions.
STAGE III
In this stage the operators stitch on fabric. Different patterns are made on the fabric and operators
have to stitch accordingly. If the in- charge finds that any operator is well skilled then they are
forwarded to the next stage.
STAGE IV
In this stage, operators are taught to handle different types of fabrics and also different types of
special and automatic machines. In this stage the trainees are also made to observe the operators
working in the line.
STAGE V
In this stage, operators are on job training on any critical operation based on requirement like Zig
Zag, blind hem, sleeve attach, bar tack, differential feed, basting etc.

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Pre Recruitment Tests
Before recruiting operators, they came across by some of the tests like:
Colour
Blindness test
Hand Movement test
Written Test
To check the ability of the Hand and Arm movements, two hands co-ordination test is done.

Figure 17: two hand coordination

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 The paper exercise on which the trainee stitch on the papers to learn the straight stitch, curve stitch,
and corner stitches.

Figure 19: paper exercise

Figure 18: fabric exercise

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 After learning the paper stitch, fabric exercise starts and in which trainee learn to stitch on
the fabric for the same.
After completion of paper and fabric exercise, trainees construct the uniform of different
colour. Actually these uniforms are colour coding for the different departments.

Figure 20: uniform colour code

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2.4.14 HR / ADMIN
HR Department can be termed as the mother of any organization. It takes care of all the employee
related activities, that is the recruitment, selection, induction, training, remunerations, provident
fund, gratuity, ESI and so on the administration department takes care of the transportation, guest
accommodation and other industrial relation activities like dealing with the labour department,
pollution control board, local jurisdiction, municipal works etc.
Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is done in the local language. While the employees are
recruited in they are to produce the documents regarding the age proof, PF nomination, gratuity
nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. The induction and the training are given
to every recruited employee on the tailoring machines. Theyre also certain task force training also
given for the members of the task force.
The administrative block of Raymond ltd is situated after the finishing floor and next to the
warehouse.
It has an IT server room, a conference room and various cabins for the higher officials purposes
of the factory. The Wi-Fi of the unit was maintained from this block. The administrative block
also had a pantry in it with all food and wash-room facilities. The block was enthralling to eye as
it had to welcome the buyers for the factory. It is a very well maintained and easily accessible to
all. Even an operator can approach anybody in the administration without any problem. This makes
the operators feel like a family and they do not feel discarded.

Objectives:
To maintain the personnel documents.
To ensure employees benefits timely
To recruit new staff, employees etc.
To receive and solve employees grievances

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Organization structure

HR Manager

Manager HR Officer Admin

Office HR & Office Assistant

Officer T&D Receptionist
Welfare

Creche Care Health Care

Hr Assistants
Taker Provider

Flow Chart 38: HR organizational structure

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2.4.15 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This
department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment
maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.

Work done by maintenance department:

Servicing of machine
Building maintenance
Oil change
Replacement of defective parts
Servicing of Motor

Preventive Maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of
breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of preventive maintenance is to prevent the failure of
equipment before it actually occurs. It is designed to preserve and enhance equipment reliability
by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

Long-term benefits of preventive maintenance include:

Improved system reliability.
Decreased cost of replacement.
Decreased system downtime.
Better spares inventory management.

Organizational Chart

Maintenance
Head

Store In Floor
Charge Incharge

Operators Technicians

Flow Chart 39: Maintenance organizational chart

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 CHAPTER 3
PLANT LAYOUT

101
 3.1 BUILDING SHED
The dimensions of the building shed are 250m X 63m X 8.8m.
The whole of shop floor is divided in three equal bays of 21 m each and the apart from the
two side ends, pillars support the structure and are placed at the meeting point of two
adjacent bays. These pillars are spaced at 8.04 in length.
The area details are as follows:
Table 13: floor area

PLOT AREA 9ACRES

BUILT UP AREA 209953.75 sq. feet

SHOP FLOOR 15750 sq. M

FABRIC STORE 17100 sq. feet

TRIMS STORE 7000 sq. feet

CUTTING 23100 sq. feet

JACKET SEWING 46250 sq. feet

TROUSER SEWING 23490 sq. feet

JACKET FINISHING 13260 sq. feet

TROUSER FINISHING 6032 sq. feet

WAREHOUSE 16613 sq. feet

TRAINING CENTRE 2040 sq. feet

HR 1000 sq. feet

CANTEEN 13225 sq. feet

LOCKER ROOM 2160 sq. feet

HEALTH CENTRE 2025 sq. feet

BOILER ROOM 5600 sq. feet

ELECTRIC ROOM 4200 feet

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 3.2 MANPOWER
Table 14: manpower

S. No. Department Manpower Capacity Executive

1. Sampling 18 N/A Ms. Sharda Awasthi

2. Fabric & Trim Store 46 77000mts Ms.Madiha Farheen and

Mr. Kannan Prakash

3. Cutting 192 7100 pcs Mr.Ved Prakash

4. Sewing 1016 7000 pcs Line executives for each

line
5. Finishing 200 7100 pcs Mr. Deepak Kumar &
Mr.Sunil Kola

6. Warehouse 18 67520 Mr.Piyush Raj

7. Maintenance 12 N/A Mr. Raghvendra

Kulkarni

8. IT & MIS 3 N/A Mr. Murugesh

9. HR & Admin 6 N/A Ms.Nethravathi

10. Training 18 N/A Ms.Nethravathi

11. I.E 6 N/A Mr.Raghvendra Kulkarni

12. Quality 135 As per production Mr. B.K. Sharma

13. Merchandising 4 N/A Mr. Giridhar Rao

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 3.3 MACHINE

Table 15: machine details

MACHINE DETAILS
No.
No.of
S.No. TYPE MAKE/MODEL of S.No. TYPE MAKE /MODEL
M/C
M/C
SEWING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
1 PFAFF-1483 144 37 Flatbed basting PFAFF - 1243 9
HIGH LEAD
38 Auto Dart 3
2 SNLS( drop feed) With GK00-58 4 PFAFF- 3519
UBT DURKOPP
HIGH LEAD 39 Auto Facing ADLER 271-992- 6
3 GC188MD 12 001
DURKOPP
40 Auto Welting ADLER 745 14
4 SNLS( needle feed) PFAFF-1481 40 PREMIUM
With UBT DURKOP
ADLER 220-5300 41 Auto Serging DURKOP ADLER 4
5 NR 12 1465-4
DURKOPP
SNLS( differential
ADLER 275-140- 42 4
feed) With UBT
6 342 44 MAIER D-73253
DURKOPP
ADLER 697-151- 43 Blind Hem MAIER-251-12- 3
7 55 15 46-D
DURKOPP
SNLS( unison feed)
ADLER 697-241- 44 1
With UBT
8 55 3 STROBEL
DURKOPP
ADLER 550-16- 45 6
9 26 15 WEISHI AZT-B46
10 PFAFF-3822 9 46 WEISHI AZT-C10 3
SNLS EDGE DURKOPP
CUTTER BUCK
ADLER 272-740- 47 WEISHI AZT- 18
11 642 3 C26A
SNLS FLAP Making JUKI- DDL-8700-
48 22
12 with LOIVA MJ-3400 7 4 WEISHI AZT-O18
13 NIKATA 4 49 WEISHI AZT-C36 18
DNLS Ordinary BUCK BOTTOM
50 3
14 TYPICAL 4 PRESS MACPI -362.00
BUCK FLAP
51 TURNING & 2
15 PFAFF-2438 3 PRESSING M/C MACPI-144.00
BUCK SHOULDER
52 3
16 PFAFF-3704 2 PAD FUSING M/C WEISHI AZT-F65
ZIGZAG WEISHI YTP-
53 22
17 PFAFF-918 3 W28
FIT
WEISHI YTP-
54 31
18 PFAFF-937 3 W28B
FIT SHAPED WEISHI YTP-
55 20
19 PFAFF-983 3 IRONING TABLE W20

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20 PFAFF-3801 6 56 FUSING MACHINE WEISHI NHJ-Q-B 2
SNCS PFAFF-3801(with
57 ZIP CUTTER 1
21 tape feed) 3 YKK-E-78000
SLIDER &
58 STOPPER YKK 4
22 DNCS TYPICAL 4 attachment
HIGH LEAD FLAT BED FUSING
59 KANNEGIESSAR 1
23 GK00-58-3 8 MACHINE
24 3TH. O/L TOYOTA EK1-3 1 CUTTING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
TYPICAL -GN-
4TH. O/L Ordinary 1 STRAIGHT KNIFE EASTMAN 2
25 2000-4 1
26 5TH. O/L JUKI MO-6716S 35 2 BAND KNIFE WASTEMA 6
KANSAI
Flat Lock SPECIAL-B- 3 ROUND KNIFE EASTMAN 10
27 2000C 1
DURKOPP
ADLER 510 4 GERBER 4
28 Bartack PREMIUM 22 CAM
BROTHER BF-
5 MORGAN 1
29 438D 1
30 Button sew C/S PFAFF-3307 3 FUSING -- DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
BROTHER BE- FLAT CONT.
1 KANNEGIESSER 7
31 438C 1 FUSING
Button sew L/S DURKOPP
ADLER 530 FINISHING - - DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
32 PREMIUM 9
DURKOPP
ADLER 580 1 VACCUM TABLE WEISHI 26
33 Button hole PREMIUM 10
AMF REECE-S- STAIN REMOVING
2 MACPI 10
34 4000 2 W/S
35 Button wrapping LOIVA ST-10 8 3 BUCK WEISHI 55
HENGTAI GL- DUSTING
Pick stitch 4 RAMSON 3
36 798A 15 MACHINE

105