Praxes

160

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



161
Cheongsam & Kei Robe Titles Textual
Research and Three Forms of the Change
From Under-robe to Kei Robe
Zhu, Bo-Wei
Master Program, School of Fashion, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology

Liu, Rui-Pu
Professor, School of Fashion, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology

Abstract

Cheongsam has already become Chinese national apparel beyond world philosophy.
The name cheongsam is not a name that is born with. Over the past 100 years, it
underwent three periodical changes, namely under-robe cheongsam (improved
cheongsam) kei robe. The evolution from cheongsam to kei robe is a landmark
in Chinas modern costume history, because it overturned the traditional cross planar
construction. However, the academic world has not conduct a systematic summary
of the situation. Scholars in Mainland China and Taiwan have not yet achieved an
agreement. Based on the review of historical facts, literatures and academic study in
Taiwan, this paper explores the process and three forms of the change from Under-robe
to kei robe, which is of vital significance to the periodical costume historical study from
the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China and to the establishment of a new China.

Keywords: Cheongsam, Kei Robe, Improved cheongsam, Change from Under-robe to

Kei robe

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

162

2.1

-1

-1 -2

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



163

-2

2.2

-3

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

164
-4

-3 - 4
2012

4


5

7( -5)

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



8( -6) 165

( -7)

-8 9
-9 10
-10 ( )
11

12

- -
,
,

-5 09200105560 (2003 )

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

166

-6(1942 )

-7 -81935
1931

13
-11

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



14 -12 167

15

-91936
-10 1938

-111926

16

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

168

-121940

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



169

5.1

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

170 17

-10

18 -13
-12

-131947

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



171

-14(1953 )

19
-14

5.2

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

172 20 -15

-15(1959 )

21

-16


22 -17
23

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



173

-161969 -171975

24
-18
25

26

-182013

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

174 5.3

27 -19

-3

-191983

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



6.1 175

-20

-20 2014

6.2

-1

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

176

-1

6.3

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



177

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe
 Praxes

178

1. 1913



2.


3.
Disc Jockey 2015 3 27
8
4. 1995pp.376
5. 1984pp.534
6. 2009 pp.253
7.

8. 1942
pp.10
9. 1935pp.
10. 1936 pp.
11. 1938 pp.
12.

13. 1926 5 < > pp.13-14
14. 1940 1 < > pp.67-68
15. 2013< > 127 pp.68-69

16. 1932



2015 4 13 3
17. 2014
18. 1947 pp.83

19. 1953pp.46 -1999
13

20. 1959pp.21
21. 1960pp.80
22. 1975pp.98
23. 2001pp. 2

24. 2013pp.45
25. 2015 5 20

26. 2015 5 18

27. 1983pp.68

1. 1995
2. 1984
3. 2009
4. 1936
5. 2013< > 127

2015 Praxes Design Journal, Shih Chien University Issue. 9



6. 2014 179
7. 2014< > 2014 03/
8. 1983
9. 1935
10. 1938
11. 1926< >
12. 1940< >
13. 1947 pp.83
14. 1953
15. 1959
16. 1960
17. 1975
18. 2001
19. 2013
20. 1981

Cheongsam & Kei Robe Title's Textual Research and Three Forms of the Change From Under-robe to Kei Robe