o

Make
Compost
in
14 Days
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4 Why Compost?
7 How Do I Make Compost?
16 Do I Need Special
Equipment?
23 What If I Dont Have
Space to Compost?
28 How Can I Use Compost?

Project editor: Diane Gilroy Book designer: Maureen Logan

Copy editor: Susan Lang Illustrators: John Carlance; Julia Child, 20, 22
Cover designer: Barb Sheetz Photo editor: Stephanie Smith

2 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s

Why Compost?
Making compost is
probably the single most important
thing you can do for your organic
garden. The success of your garden
depends on your soil, and the health of
your soil depends on the compost you
give it. But what is compost? Compost
simply is decomposed organic matter,
but its the best gift you can give your
garden. And you already have almost all
the materials you need on hand.
With very little effort on your
part, you can turn throw-away
4 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
materials into the sweet-smelling,
nutrient-rich, no-cost soil condi-
tioner called gardeners gold. At
the same time, youre recycling
kitchen scraps and yard wastes in-
stead of paying to have them hauled
off to a landfill. Not a bad deal!
6 Reasons Why
Compost Is Good
Here are six reasons that show why
making compost is worth your time.
Back to Contents
1. Compost protects of most of the nutrients plants need.
plants from drought Whats more, compost acts as a kind of
Soil that has been amended with com- nutrient storehouse, releasing nutri-
post holds more moisture. Compost ents in a form thats available gradually
encourages the formation of soil gran- throughout the growing season. In
ules, which soak up water and hold it spring, when plants are small, compost
like a sponge. (Humusthe end result doles out nutrients slowly. Later, as the
of the composting processis so absor- soil warms up and plant growth acceler-
bent that 100 pounds of it can hold ates, nutrients are released at a faster
195 pounds of water!) So you wont rate. Thats because the soil microor-
need to water your plants as often. ganisms that release the nutrients from
compost work harder as the tempera-
2. Compost improves ture rises.
soil aeration As compost breaks down into
In your garden, lack of aeration com- humus, it improves the soils ability to
monly shows up as crusting of the soil store nutrients. So if you amend your
surface. Soil particles pack together, soil regularly with compost, plant nutri-
preventing water and air from entering. ents can build up over time to the point
Seed germination could be poor be- that the soil needs little fertilizer of any
cause the sprouts have trouble pushing kind for several years. (No chemical
through the soils hard surface. fertilizers can make that claim.) And
Without air, soil tends to become al- that saves you both time and money.
kaline. It also loses the organic matter and Plants need only very small amounts
nitrogen that are essential to productiv- of micronutrientsiron, manganese,
ity. Humus content drops, too. And any boron, zinc, cobalt, copper, molybde-
humus that remains loses its potency. Soil num, and iodinethat are essential to
needs air to transform valuable minerals
into forms that plants can use.
plant growth and reproduction. On the
other hand, too much of some micro-
nutrients can harm plants. Whether
3. Compost stops erosion the soil has too little or too much of a
Soil that contains a lot of humus (fin- certain element, adding compost usually
ished compost) holds together better. corrects the problem. (Note: To deter-
Instead of running off the soil surface mine nutrient levels in your soil, have
and taking your soil with itwater a reputable lab test your soil. You can
permeates the soil. By improving soil call your regional cooperative extension
structure and fertility, compost can pre- office to find the lab nearest you.)
vent soil erosion by wind and water.
5. Compost prevents
4. Compost slowly plant disease
releases nutrients Compost has seemingly miraculous
Compost is a well-balanced source powers to prevent and control plant
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 5

why compost?
disease. Here are some examples of
what it can do for your garden:
n Florida studies have shown that com-
post can protect pepper plants from phy-
tophthora root rot, dramatically reduce
damping-off and gummy stem blight in
squash plants, reduce rhizoctonia root rot
(a fungal disease) by 80% in black-eyed
peas, reduce early blight and root-knot
nematode damage, and virtually eliminate
rot caused by Macrophomina (another
nasty fungus) on green beans.
n In a California study, peaches from
a compost-treated orchard had no
brown rot, while 24% of the fruit from
a neighboring orchard (treated with
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garden plants, and kitchen scrapsthat
otherwise might end up being dumped
in the landfill or burned. Composting
saves not only landfill space but also
the precious nutrients contained in the
organic matter. In fact, composting is
the only form of waste disposal that
conserves these nutrients so they can
eventually be returned to the soil. The
entire ecosystem benefits.
Composting also helps the environ-
ment by reducing the use of chemical
fertilizers. Unlike compost, chemical
fertilizers are made from nonrenewable
resources. About 2% of the natural gas
consumed in the United States goes
to the making of nitrogen fertilizers.
Natural gas supplies are finite, and

chemical fungicides) did have it.
n A New York country club uses com-
post to combat turf diseases and was
able to cut its fungicide use 97% after
just 3 years.
n Compost teathe liquid produced by
steeping compost in waterhas been
found to help suppress mildew on plants.
Paradoxically, leaving uncomposted
plant residues on your garden at the
end of the season can provide a haven
for overwintering pests and diseases.
Thats all the more reason to clean up
your garden and turn those wastes into
disease-preventing gardeners gold.
6. Compost
recycles wastes
When you make compost, you recycle
wastesgrass clippings, leaves, spent
shortages are bound to occur in the
future.
Instead of buying fertilizers that
use up natural resources, pollute water,
and kill beneficial microorganisms, you
can make compost. If you cant manage
all of your organic wastes in a home
compost pile, take them to the clos-
est municipal composting centerbut
dont put them out with the trash!
Increased Yields
A study at the Connecticut
Agricultural Experiment Station
showed that as little as 15 inch
of leaf compost tilled into the top
6 inches of soil had a measurable
effect on the yields of carrots
and beets.
How Do I Make
Compost?
Walk through a wooded
area and scoop up a handful of that dark
crumbly material on the forest floor:
Thats compost. Nature creates it all
the time without human intervention.
But gardeners can step in and speed up
the composting process by creating the
optimal conditions for decomposition:
Air + Water + Carbon + Nitrogen = Compost.
Air. Like most living things, the bacte-
ria that decompose organic matter, and
the other creatures that make up the
compost ecosystem, need air. Soil scien-
tists say compost piles need porosity
the ability for air to move into the pile.
Think of porosity in terms of fluffiness.
A fluffy pile has plenty of spacesor
poresfor air to move about. A flat,
matted pile of, say, grass clippings does
not. Even fluffy piles compress during
the composting process. Occasionally
turning your pile refluffs the material,
moves new material into the center, and
helps improve airflow into the pile, says
Craig Cogger, Ph.D., extension soil sci-
entist at Washington State University.
Water. Compost microbes also need
the right amount of water. Too much
moisture reduces airflow, causes tem-
peratures to fall, and can make the pile
smell, whereas too little water slows
decomposition and prevents the pile

6 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 7

how do I make compost?
from heating. Conventional wisdom
says that compost should feel like a
wrung-out sponge, says Abigail May-
nard, Ph.D., agricultural scientist at the
Connecticut Agriculture Experiment
Station.
Carbon (brown) ingredients.
The microbes that break down organic
matter use carbon as an energy source.
Ingredients with a high percentage of
carbon are usually dry and either brown
or yellow. Common high-carbon ingre-
dients are fall leaves, straw, cornstalks,
and dead flowers from your garden. See
Extra(ordinary) Ingredients on p. 9
for more brown materials.
Nitrogen (green) ingredients.
Microbes need nitrogen for the proteins
that build their tiny bodies. Ingredi-
ents high in nitrogen include moist
plant matter, such as grass clippings,
green leaves, plant-based kitchen waste
(vegetable peelings and fruit rinds), and
animal by-products, such as manure.
(Even though its color is usually brown,
manure is full of nitrogen like the other
green stuff.) Green ingredients nutrient-rich compost?
can be green, brown, and all colors in
between. See Extra(ordinary) Ingredi-
ents on p. 9 for more green materials.
C/N ratio. In order for a compost
pile to decompose efficiently, you need
to create the right ratio of carbon (C)
to nitrogen (N) (C/N). Piles with too
much nitrogen tend to smell because
the excess nitrogen converts into an
ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break
down slowly because theres not enough
8 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
nitrogen for the microbe population to
expand. An ideal compost pile should
have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings
alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio.
Adding 1 part grass clippings, or other
green, to 2 parts dead leaves, or other
brown, will give you the right mix.
Compost Ingredients
Building a compost pile creates more
anxiety and obsession among garden-
ers than any other gardening activity.
So before you start a pile, remember
one thing: Relax. Theres no right or
wrong way of composting, and people
get panicked that they have the wrong
recipe, says Maynard. Composting is
a natural phenomenonits decompos-
ing; youre just helping it along a bit.
That said, there are good, bad, and
so-so compost ingredients. Before you
add an ingredient to your pile, make
sure its up to the compost quality-
control test. Ask yourself four basic
questions about each ingredient:
1. Is it biodegradable?
2. Will it help make high-quality,
3. Did it come from a chemical-free lawn?
4. Is it free of disease, toxins, and other
contaminants?
If you answer no or I dont know
to any of these questions, forgo adding
the ingredient to your pile. Its that easy.
Mix and match the green and brown
ingredients listed here until you find a
compost recipe that works for you. Just
keep in mind the carbon-to-nitrogen
(C/N) ratio as you build your pile.
Back to Contents
Extra(ordinary) Leaves are an abundant carbon source
Ingredients and full of nutrients. Stockpile them in fall
so that you have them on hand in summer.
You may be surprised to learn of all the ev-
eryday waste that can be used in compost. Pine needles decompose slowly. Add
only small amounts to your pile. Use
The Browns excess needles as a mulch.
Brown garden debris, such as
corn- and sunflower stalks, dried Straw will bulk up a pile. Each straw
legume plants, and dried potato and lends itself as a conduit for air to
tomato vines, adds bulk to the pile. circulate. Dont confuse straw with hay,
which often contains weed and grass
Hedge prunings and twigs help seeds and shouldnt be added to com-
keep a pile fluffy but should be chipped post. You can get straw from your local
first so they decompose faster. garden center or farmer.
The No-No List
The following items should never be added to compost because they
could introduce harmful pathogens, toxins, and nonbiodegradable
materials.
Black walnut leaves, bark, and chips contain juglone, a chemical that
inhibits the growth of many plants, especially tomatoes.
Diseased plants must be disposed of in the garbage or burned. Adding
them to compost could spread the disease.
Dog, cat, pig, and reptile manures (and associated bedding) may
contain parasites or dangerous pathogens that are harmful to humans,
particularly pregnant women, children, and people with compromised
immune systems.
Gypsum board scraps could contain paint and other undesirable toxins.
Materials from the side of the road, including grass clippings and
leaves, could contain petroleum residues, toxins, and nonbiodegradable
materials.
Meats, dairy products, bones, and fish decompose slowly, smell, and
attract animals.
Paper, especially glossy paper printed with colored ink, may contain
heavy metals. Black-and-white newspaper is safe.
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 9

how do I make compost?
The Greens
Aquarium water, algae, and
plants (from freshwater fish tanks only) rial, or youll risk creating a smelly pile.
add moisture and a kick of nitrogen.
Chicken manure has high amounts
of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. headed flowers, can all be recycled in
Dead houseplants add a dose of
nitrogen, but dont include thorny or
diseased plants.
Fresh grass clippings should be
mixed with plenty of drier, brown mate-
Green garden debris, such as
spent pansies, bolted lettuce, and dead-
the compost bin.
Horse manure contains more nitro-
gen than cow manure.
Manure from pet rabbits and
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heating is difficult to achieve in home
Cowpie Caution compost piles.) One disadvantage of the
process: More of the nitrogen in the
Cow manure may contain
pile is burned off during hot compost-
E. coli O157:H7, a dangerous
ing, so the final product contains less
pathogen that can cause
nitrogen than does cold compost made
severe illness and even death.
with the same ingredients. But you can
We dont recommend adding
make finished compost in less than
it to home compost because
2 monthssometimes in as little as
of the health risk.
14 dayswith the hot compost method.
Heres what you need:
n Straw and other brown materials

The So-So List rodents (such as gerbils and hamsters) (see p. 9 for a list)
can be composted with the accompany- n Green materials (see p. 10 for a list)
Many things found in the average home are nontoxic and biodegradable
ing wood or paper bedding. n A shovelful or two of garden soil
and come from a known sourcebut they arent great compost
n A site thats at least 3 feet long
ingredients because they break down slowly, mat together, or dont add
many nutrients.
Vegetative kitchen scraps (carrot 3 feet wide
peelings and the like) should be buried
Black-and-white newsprint and office paper can be used in the compost
in the center of the pile so they dont Heres what to do:
pile if youre desperate for brown materials, but they must be shredded.
Try using the newspaper in sheet mulching projects and recycling office
attract animals. Eggshells are okay, too. 1. Spread a thick layer of straw. Using
paper instead. (See Sheet Composting on p. 24.) straw as your first layer keeps your pile
Weeds can be composted! No joke. off the ground and keeps out weeds and
Cardboard is best used in sheet mulching. Shred or chop it into small
pieces if composting.
Just remember never to add weeds that pests. You can get straw at your local
have set seed or weeds that root easily garden center.
Dryer lint may contain synthetic fibers that will never decompose. Even
from stems or rhizomes, such as field 2. Top that with several inches of
natural-fiber lint adds no benefit to compost.
bindweed and Canada thistle. green stuff.
Human and pet hair can be added in small amounts if you keep in mind
3. Add a thin layer of soil.
that it breaks down slowly, mats easily, and sheds water.
Natural-fiber cloth doesnt add any benefit to the compost pile. Consider
How to Make 4. Add another layer of shredded leaves
Compost Fast or other brown stuff.
using burlap bags under wood chips to prevent weeds instead.
5. Moisten the layers.
Sawdust must be used in moderation, because it breaks down very The payoff for the labor of hot com- 6. Continue layering green stuff and
slowly and can lock up nitrogen. Never use sawdust from treated or
posting versus cold (see Cold Black brown stuff (include straw for airflow)
painted wood.
Gold on p. 12) is its speed. You can with a little soil (or finished compost)
Vacuum bags may contain synthetic carpet fibers and other make several batches every season. In mixed in until the pile is 3 feet high. Try
nonbiodegradable items.
addition, the high constant temperature to add stuff in a ratio of 3 parts brown
Wood ash adds potassium (potash), but it is an extremely alkaline kills weed seeds and disease pathogens. to 1 part green. If it takes a while before
material and should be used in small amounts. (Rodales Organic Life does not recom- you have enough material to build the
Wood chips should be used as mulch around ornamentals rather than in mend adding weed seeds or manures pile that high, dont worry. Just keep
the compost pile because they break down so slowly. that contain human pathogens to com- adding to the pile until it gets to at least
posthot or coldbecause uniform 3 feet high.

10 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 11
 Back to Contents
how do I make compost?
Cold Black Gold Just Say No to Compost Activator
Making cold compost is the minimum-effort method. Mix together Yet another study has confirmed what Rodales Organic Life has reported:
yard wastes, such as grass clippings, leaves, and weeds, place If your composting methods are sound, special compost activators do not
speed up the composting process. Allen V. Barker, Ph.D., a professor at the
them in a pile, and wait 6 to 24 months for the microorganisms,
University of Massachusetts in Amherst, tested three activators in compost
earthworms, and insects to break down the material. Add new
piles of leaves and food wastes that were turned and watered weekly. After
materials to the top of the pile. You can reduce the waiting period
60 days, he found that the rate of decomposition was not accelerated by the
by occasionally turning the pile and monitoring and adjusting the activators, nor was the quality of the compost improved, when compared
piles moisture level. The compost will be ready when the original with untreated piles. The bottom line: A shovelful of finished compost or
ingredients are unrecognizable. Generally, compost on the bottom garden soil will do the job just as well.
of the pile finishes first.
Pros: Takes little effort to build and maintain; can be built over time.
Cons: Takes up to 2 years to produce finished compost; doesnt kill
pathogens and weed seeds; undecomposed pieces may need to be such as cornstalks or dry leaves available dry. If moisture drips from the handful of
screened out. to microbes and speeds up decomposi- compost, mix in more dry material since
tion. Some dedicated composters shred a wet pile is slow to decompose.
everything in their pile and turn the
pile every 3 or 4 days to get finished Provide airflow. One perforated
7. Every couple of weeks, turn the pile that is at least 3 3 3 feet. A pile this compost in as little as 14 days. PVC pipe stuck upright in the middle
with a garden fork or shovel, moving size will have enough mass to decom- How can you break down this mate- of the pile or several laid in crisscross
the stuff at the center of the pile to the pose without a bin. Many gardeners buy rial? Run a lawn mower over it all, use horizontal layers throughout the pile
outside and working the stuff on the or build compost bins, however, to keep pruning shears to cut up big stuff such as will aerate it. Old cornstalks tied to-
outside to the center of the pile. the pile neat. Some are designed to coarse stems and stalks, or put everything gether and placed upright serve the same
8. Keep the pile moist but not soggy. make turning the compost easier or to through a chipper/shredder, if you can. purpose. Compost bins with openings
When you first turn the pile, you may protect it from soaking rains. Another way to cut up leaves: Put in the sides and bottom provide the best
see steam rising from it. This is a sign the leaves into a plastic garbage can ventilation.
that the pile is heating up as a result and then use a lightweight electric The more labor-intensive way to
Helpful Hints
of the materials in it decomposing. If string trimmer like an egg beater to add air is to poke holes in the pile with
you turn the pile every couple of weeks Turn the pile frequently. This is chop them. Wear goggles and a dust a pry bar or the handle of a hoe or rake
and keep it moist, you will begin to see the essential element of hot composting. mask when you do this to protect your-
earthworms throughout the pile, and the Turn the pile whenever its initial high self from flying dust and debris.
center of the pile will turn into black, temperature, which could be 120 to
crumbly, sweet-smelling compost. 160F, begins to dropabout every 3 to Be sure the pile has enough
9. When you have enough finished 5 days. Monitor the temperature with a moisture. If all other factors are
compost in the pile to use in your commercial compost thermometer, or rightthe proper mix of high-carbon
garden, shovel out the finished compost simply stick your hand into the pile. You and high-nitrogen ingredients, shredded
and start your next pile with any mate- shouldnt be able to keep it there com- material, good aerationand you still cant
rial that hadnt fully decomposed in the fortably for much more than a minute. get a high temperature in your pile, it may
previous one. be because its too dry. Pick up a handful
Note: You dont need a compost bin to Shred coarse materials. This of compost and squeeze it. It should feel The compost-turning tool lifts the
make compost. You simply need a pile increases the surface area of materials like a moist sponge. Add water if its too materials as you pull it out of the pile.

12 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 13
 Back to Contents
how do I make compost?
every week or so. Most manufactured it will yield nutrient-rich compost the ingredient and then adding up the
compost-aerating tools have an arrow- most quickly. Do the Math carbon totals for all the ingredients.
shaped tip that pushes into the pile eas- But how do you know what your piles 2. Do the same for the nitrogen.
ily but is harder to pull out because of ratio is? The most important factor in To calculate the C/N ratio of your com- 3. Divide the carbon by the nitrogen
the large hole it makes as its removed. estimating the C/N ratio is how much post mix, use the chart on p. 14 to find to get the C/N ratio. If its between
Remember, the more manure, grass, water is present. Dry materials are gener- the approximate percentages of carbon 25 and 35, your pile should compost
and leaves, the faster the process. ally in the range of 40 to 50% carbon, and and nitrogen in your ingredients. beautifully. If the ratio is higher or
sloppy, wet materials are generally 10 to 1. Calculate your piles Total Carbon lower than that, adjust the proportions
20% carbon. Value by multiplying the percentage of ingredients to bring it into the range
The Carbon/
Here are the specifics on many of carbon of each ingredient by the of 25 to 35 parts carbon for each 1 part
Nitrogen Ratio number of parts (by weight) of that
common materials. After youve studied nitrogen.
A compost pile with a 30:1 balance of these, youll see how to calculate your
carbon to nitrogen will rot steadily, and piles exact C/N ratio.

Carbon and Nitrogen Content of

Common Compost Ingredients*
MATERIAL % Carbon % Nitrogen
How the C/N Ratio Works
Heres an example of how the C/N ratio works when you apply the
Alfalfa pellets 40.5 2.7
formula to real-life amounts of real-life compost ingredients.
Blood meal 43 13
Start with 50 pounds of fallen leaves, 10 pounds of kitchen scraps, and
Cottonseed meal 42 6
2 pounds of coffee grounds. (We used the midrange percentages for
Soybean meal 42 6
the leaves and scraps.)
Legume cuttings, dry 40 2.02.5
Fresh manure, cow 1220 0.61.0
50 lb fallen leaves X 30% C = 15.0 lb C
Fresh manure, horse 2035 0.51.0 10 lb kitchen scraps X 15% C = 1.5 lb C
Fresh manure, laying chickens 10.520 1.53.0 2 lb coffee grounds X 25% C = 0.5 lb C
Fresh manure, broiler chickens 2032.5 1.32.0 17.0 Total Carbon Value
Wheat or oat straw, dry 48 0.5
50 lb fallen leaves X 0.7% N = 0.35 lb N
Grass clippings, fresh 1015 12
10 lb kitchen scraps X 1.5% N = 0.15 lb N
Fallen leaves 2035 0.41.0
2 lb coffee grounds X 1% N = 0.02 lb N
Newspaper or cardboard, dry 40 0.1
0.52 Total Nitrogen Value
Wood chips or sawdust 2550 0.1
Coffee grounds 25 1 Carbon/Nitrogen Ratio = 17/.52 = 32.7/1
Vegetable wastes, fresh, leafy 10 1
Vegetable wastes, starchy 15 1
Kitchen scraps 1020 12
Fruit wastes 8 0.5
Seaweed, fresh 10 1
Weeds, fresh 1020 14
* average; based on fresh weight

14 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 15

Do I Need
Special
Equipment?
Truth is, you can make compost
without any tools or equipment. But
if you want to cook up big batches of
gardeners gold, compost bins, tumblers,
frames, and other gadgets can help you
do the job quickly and easily.
Although equipment isnt vital for
making good compost, it can help you
manage your composting operation.
16 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
Here are some reasons why you might
want to invest in a compost bin, frame,
tumbler, or other equipment.
Appearance matters. If you have
a small yard and have to make compost
in full view of your neighbors, you (and
your neighbors) may be happier if your
compost is under cover.
Back to Contents
Bins boost production. Compost
bins can help you organize your com-
posting so that you can be more pro-
ductive. For example, with a three-bin
system, you can pile slowly decompos-
ing yard wastes in one bin, mix kitchen
scraps and finely chopped materials for
fast composting in another bin, and keep
finished compost in the third bin. Or use
one bin for finished compost, and turn
your compost-in-progress from one of
A welded steel wire cylinder forms
the remaining bins into the other.
a very simple, movable pen.
Get finished compost faster. By
turning and aerating your pileusing and other organic materials inside. (Use
a tumbler, pitchfork, and other kinds of grass clippings sparingly, in layers no
equipmentyou can speed the process more than 1 inch thick, to avoid mat-
and turn garbage into gold in almost no ting.) When the bin is half full, drive a
time at all. stake into the center of the pile. Water
will run down the stake, helping to keep
Build-It-Yourself Bins the pile moist.
To turn the pile, simply unfasten
Whatever your composting style, theres the bins ends, pull the fencing away
bound to be a bin, frame, or tumbler thatll from the materials, and set the bin
meet your needs. If youre handy, you can back up next to the heap. Then refill
build your own compost bin in almost no the empty bin, turning the materials
time at all. from the top of the original pile to the
If your bin is portable, set it up close bottom of the new pile and from the
to where you need to use the compost. outside to the inside.
When youve emptied the bin, move it
to another location in need of compost, Wood-and-Wire Bin
and begin a new pile. For a bit more structure, make a wood
Here are a few ideas. and wire bin, using untreated 2 4
lumber and 12-inch mesh hardware
Wire Cage cloth or poultry netting. Use the
Easy does it: Start with a 10-foot length lumber to make four identical 3 3-
of 48-inch 1212- or 14-gauge welded foot or 4 4-foot open frames. Staple
steel wire fencing. Clip or wire together the hardware cloth to one side of each
the ends to form a cylindrical compost frame. Next, nail three of the panels
bin 4 feet high and slightly more than together to form a back and two sides.
3 feet across. Pile your leaves, clippings, Use the remaining panel to make a
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 17

do I need special equipment?
This sturdy,
portable wood-and-wire
bin has reinforced corners.
convenient door, by hinging the edges
at one corner and placing the hooks
and eyes on the opposite corner. To
turn the compost ingredients, just open
the hooks for easy access.
Movable-Slat Wood Bin
The classic compost bin is the mov-
able slat bin (sometimes called the New
Zealand box). Because slat bins are
constructed entirely of wood, they hold
up better than wire bins.
The sides consist of movable slats
that fit inside tracks. The slats make
access easy: When you need to work
with the composting materials, you just
remove as many of the slats as neces-
sary. Spacers between the slats allow air
to reach the compost materials, speed-
ing the breakdown process.
Many movable slat bins have three
compartments for storing compost in
various stages: freshly collected materi-
als, partially decomposed materials, and
finished compost. Having multiple
bins allows for a continuous supply of
18 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
This 4-bin
variation on the
standard movable-slat
wood bin allows several successive
batches of compost to develop.
The slotted
boards that make
up this simple bin can be easily moved.
compost for all your garden needs.
The ideal size bin for making quick
compost should hold 27 cubic feet of
organic material. To keep out animals
such as raccoons and rodents, attach
hinged lids to the top of each bin. Bins
like these can be made with or without
a floor. Your compost will break down
faster, however, without a floorjust pile
the materials directly on the ground.
Concrete Block Bin
If durability is your chief concern, con-
struct a permanent bin from concrete
blocks (or brick) and mortar. To make
moving the bin an option, use just the
blocks without the mortar.
Choosing Wood
Never use pressure-treated
woodtoxic copper and arsenic
will leach into your compost and
eventually contaminate your
garden soil. Cedar is a good
choice because it resists rotting;
recycled plastic lumber is also
sturdy and long lasting.
Stack the blocks three or four
high to form walls. You can leave one
side open to form a U-shaped bin or
enclose the bin on all four sides. If you
enclose all four sides, lay the blocks
apartwith spaces of 1 inch or more
between themto improve air circula-
tion. To create multiple bins, add one
or more interior walls. To turn the
pile, simply fork the materials from
one bin to another.
Cover the structure with a remov-
able wooden lid or plastic tarp to keep
Unmortared, staggered blocks create a
bin that is well aerated and movable.
Back to Contents
out excessive amounts of rain. If you
make a concrete floor for your bin,
make sure you slant it slightly to allow
drainage. (Collect the resulting com-
post tea in a bucket and use it to feed
outdoor plants or houseplants.)
Miscellaneous Bins
Compost bins come in many shapes,
sizes, and materials. Resourceful gar-
deners use whatever they have on hand.
Here are more ideas.
Pallets. Recycled hardwood pallets
provide a quick, easyand commonly
freecompost bin. Just stand the pal-
lets on end in a square, pound in fence
posts to hold the corners together, and
use heavy-gauge wire to fasten the pal-
lets to the posts.
Fencing. Fencing is sturdy and allows
plenty of air to circulate inside the bin.
Use steel or wooden posts for the bins
corners. Attach snow, lattice, or picket
fencing for the sides.
Recycled materials, such as snow fencing,
can be used to construct a compost bin.
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 19

do I need special equipment?
Straw bales. You can make an all-
organic compost bin by using straw
balesstacked two highfor the sides.
Move away a bale or two to turn and
access the compost. Over time, some of
the straw itself will decompose, adding
more carbon to your pile.
Ready-Made
Composters
A ready-made composter may cost you
more than the materials for making
your own bin but will save you the time
and effort of making your own. The
two basic typesbins and tumblers
come in many variations.
Commercial Bins
A lot of composting bins are made of
recycled plastic, which wont warp or
discolor as wood will. Bins made of
dark-colored plastic catch and hold
the suns heat, making them good
choices for those who live in frigid
climates.
Some of these bins retain mois-
ture, too. Their sides and top cover
are slanted to catch just enough rain
to maintain moisture levels without
drenching the compost. And while you
do have to turn the compost the old-
fashioned wayusing a pitchforkyou
dont have to disassemble the compos-
ter to do so. Some designs allow you to
just insert your fork through a mixing
slot near the top, loosen and turn the
material, then insert the fork into one
of the lower slots to mix the material
on the bottom. Removable doors on
the sides allow you to scoop out the
20 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
finished compost. With pliers, you can
assemble a unit in about a half hour.
Compost Tumblers
Tumbler or drum composters are plastic
or metal containers that are usually
mounted on elevated frames. Some
models have gear-driven turning mech-
anisms; others spin on ball bearings.
Another type resembles a large metal or
plastic ball. To turn the contents, you
just roll the ball on the ground.
Because tumblers make it easy
to turn materials, they can produce
compost quickly. They have at least
one drawback, however. Their capacity
usually isnt very large. When youve
filled the tumbler to a certain level, you
must stop adding fresh materials until
the process has finished. During those 2
to 3 weeks, youll need to stockpile your
materials in another container or area.
And because the contents rest on plastic
rather than on the ground, you will
Drum composters, similar to this one, can
be purchased from garden supply stores.
want to add a few shovelfuls of soil or
finished compost whenever you fill the
bin. Otherwise, earthworms and other
soil organisms wont be able to get in to
help the decomposition process.
Deciding What to Buy
Dont choose a commercial composter
based on its cost alone. Consider these
factors, too.
Portability. Some models, especially
the tumblers, are too large or heavy to
move easily. Make sure you have a good
site for such a bin before you buy it.
Portable bins (like the ball type) allow
you to make compost at several sites
around the garden; theyre especially
good for gardeners who dont have a
wheelbarrow or who garden over a
large area.
Capacity. Choose a bin size appro-
priate for the amount of materials you
expect to have for composting. Bigger
isnt necessarily better if you have only
small quantities of composting materi-
als. If you have a lot of material to com-
post, however, two or three inexpensive
cage- or open-type bins may be a better
choice for you than a single large bin.
Ease of use. If the bin has a loading
door or lid, you should be able to lift or
open and close it easily. The opening
should be wide enough to accommodate
bulky material. When considering a
drum-type composter, check to see that
theres enough room beneath the drum
to park a wheelbarrow for unloading
the finished compost.
Back to Contents
Other Composting
Tools
Besides the items in the following
list, there are at least a few other tools
that can help you make compost. For
instance, youll probably want a pair
of good-quality gloves and a small
bucket with a lid for collecting and
carrying kitchen scraps. Many garden-
ers also find a chipper/shredder useful
for chopping leaves and garden wastes
into smaller pieces before adding them
to the pile: The smaller the pieces, the
faster theyll decompose.
Forks. Use a pitchforkwhich has
three long, slightly rounded tinesto
add materials to the pile, to turn the
pile, and to transfer the finished com-
post to your wheelbarrow and beds.
Use a straw fork (with five or six long
rounded tines) for scattering light com-
posting material.
Wheelbarrow. Youll need a wheel-
barrow or garden cart to transport
your grass clippings, leaves, and garden
wastes to the compost pile and to carry
your finished compost to the garden.
Wheelbarrows and carts are also handy
to work over when screening compost
or potting up plants.
Screen. A screen is useful for sepa-
rating the finer particles of finished
compost from larger, less-decayed
chunks. Fine, screened compost is ideal
for covering seedbeds. If its aged
(6 months or more), you can even use it
in potting mixes. Throw the larger stuff
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 21
 Back to Contents
do I need special equipment?

Filter out lumps, sticks, and other debris

with a compost sifter.
back into the pile for further microbial
breakdown, orif the pieces arent too
biguse it as mulch or side dressing for
plants that are already established.
You can either buy a compost screen
or make your own by stapling hardware
cloth or fine-gauge chicken wire to a
simple wood frame.
Thermometer. If you want to make
compost quickly (in as little as 14 days),
youll need a compost thermometer to
monitor the temperature of your pile.
The hotter the temperature, the faster
Look for a
compost-aerating
tool with a sturdy
handle that lets
you get a firm grip
on it for pulling.
research indicates that aerating your pile
regularly could even boost its nitrogen
content and disease-fighting abilities.
Turning your pile with a fork a
couple of times a week is one way to
get air into it. Another is to use a tool
designed specifically for this purpose. What If I
Dont Have
Commercially sold compost aerators
have a long shaft that you use to twist,

the decomposition. Another advantage
of hot compost is that it kills weed
seeds and disease organisms.
Use the thermometer to check the
temperature every 3 to 5 days. When the
temperature drops below 120F, aerate
the pile (by turning or using a commer-
cial aerator) to get it cooking again.
Youll find compost thermometers
at your garden center and in garden
supply catalogs. Theyre also useful for
checking soil temperature.
Aerator. The more air you get into
your pile, the faster itll break down.
There may be other benefits, too: Some
turn, or bore holes into the center of
the pile. (For other ways to aerate your
pile, see Provide Airflow on p. 13.)
Hose. Moisture is essential to the
composting process. Ideally, your pile
should feel as moist as a damp sponge
(no wetter). When the materials begin
to dry outcausing the process to
slowyoull need to remoisten the
layers with a hose.
If youre buying a new hose, look
for a durable rubber hose with solid
brass couplings. Also, keep in mind that
the more plies it has, the better it will
hold up.
Space to
Compost?
If youre a gardener
with limited space, you can still get in
on the joy of composting by using plas-
tic garbage bags or a garbage can,
or by working with worms. If none of
the methods here catches your fancy,
weve included tips on buying compost.
Heres an indoor compost method
from Yankee Publishings Panty Hose,
Hot Peppers, Tea Bags, and Morefor the
Garden: Fill large plastic garbage bags
with shredded leaves each fall. Top off
each bag with at least one shovelful of
soil or compost and one-third shovel-
ful of grass clippings or alfalfa pellets.
Water well, then tie, and poke airholes
in the bags. Store them in a spot where
they wont freeze in the winter, such
as a heated garage or basement. In the
spring, youll have bags of leaf molda

22 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 23

what if I dont have space to compost?
dark, crumbly soil conditioner that is a
magnet for earthworms and a humus-
rich soil amendment.
Garbage Can
Composting
You can use this system to compost
kitchen scraps during the winter, or use
it year-round to compost all the waste
produced by a small yard and garden.
Use a hammer and a large nail to
punch holes in the bottom, sides, and
lid of a garbage can. Place the can on a
large tray to catch liquid, if desired.
To start the composting, place a
3-inch layer of finished compost or soil
in the bottom of the can. Add finely
chopped kitchen scraps followed by
alternating layers of grass clippings and
shredded newspaper or shredded leaves.
Add more material as available until the
can is full, then layer new materials into
another can and allow the first to finish
composting3 to 4 months.
Tips for Garbage
Can Composting
n Protect the composter from
freezing temperaturesput it in a
garage or cellar.
n Start with soil or finished compost,
and add a little more on top of each
addition.
n Chop, shred, and even blend all
additions as finely as possible.
n Add kitchen scraps before they
start to smell.
n Mix the composting material after
each addition and every few days. If you
dont, it may produce unpleasant odors.
24 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
Base the size of your garbage can
composter on the amount of materials
youll be putting in it.
Stir with a stick, roll the can back and
forth on its side a few times, or use a
compost-turning tool.
n Add water sparingly and only if your
materials are very dry.
Sheet
Composting
Author Pat Lanza calls it lasagna
gardening. Others call it sheet
composting. She spreads leaves,
grass clippings, and other com-
post materials in layers right on
top of the soil. She works the
layers into the soil, and they
decompose underground over
time. An area that is sheet-
composted in fall can be planted
in late spring or early summer of
the following year.
Working Compost
with Worms
Organic gardeners know that worms
help plant matter to decompose, im-
prove soil structure, and leave behind
rich fertilizer. Researchers have now
found that worm composts actually
make plants grow faster.
Researchers at Ohio State Uni-
versity found that including just 10 to
20% worm compost (by volume) in a
commercial potting mix can boost the
growth rate of marigolds, bachelors
Trench
Composting
If you dont have room for a
compost pile, you may find that
trench composting is the best way
to add nutrients to your soil. Just
dig a hole in your garden every
day, about 8 inches deep, and
bury kitchen scraps. If you start
along one side of a garden row,
youll actually be side-dressing or
fertilizing nearby vegetables as
well as boosting soil texture and
fertility for next season
You shouldnt have a problem
with animals digging up what
youve buried if you avoid adding
meat, fat, and bones. If dogs do
begin to dig in your trenches, just
use a roll of chicken wire to cover
your buried treasure. Roll it out
over one hole at a time, along the
row. It will also mark where you
last buried something.
Back to Contents
buttons, tomatoes, and peppers by up
to 40% over that of plants grown in an
unamended mix.
Even when we provided all plants
with enough fertilizer for optimum
growth, plants still grew better when
the soil was amended with worm
compost, reports Jim Metzger, Ph.D.,
horticulture professor at Ohio State.
Researchers at Mississippi State
University have found that worm com-
post increases the germination rate and
growth of cucumbers. And scientists
in Italy have confirmed similar results
with carrots.
If your home compost pile already
contains lots of worms, you give your
plants a boost every time you apply the
compost. If you dont have a compost
pile, you can set up a worm bin in your
home, feed the worms your kitchen
scraps, and collect their castings.
You can buy a worm bin (go to
rodalesorganiclife.com to find compa-
nies that sell worms, bins, and other
supplies), or build your own from a
plastic tub with a tight-fitting lid. Be
sure to include holes for air and drain-
age. Place coarse gravel or smooth
stones on the bottom, covered by a fine
mesh screen to keep the worms above,
on the working floor.
Tips for Composting
with Worms
Here are some hints from Amy Stewart,
author of The Earth Moved:
On The Remarkable Achievements of
Earthworms (Algonquin Books):
n Feed worms a low-fat, vegan diet:
they love fruit and vegetable scraps,
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 25

what if I dont have space to compost?
coffee grounds, tea bags, rice, pasta,
and bread, but they cant tolerate meat,
dairy, or oil.
n Keep the food covered with a layer
of shredded newspaper or cardboard,
which discourages flies and provides
another food source for the worms.
n Add crushed eggshells to prevent
acidity. The worms will not eat the
shellsyou can add them to your gar-
den along with the castings.
n Keep the bin as damp as a wrung-out
sponge. Adding wet or dry newspaper is
a good way to modify the humidity.
n Keep your bin in a sheltered spot,
away from sun and rain. Worms prefer
a moderate climate: 60F is ideal.
Vent holes
Covering material
(optional)
Kitchen scraps
Worms
Bedding
material
Wooden divider
with drainage
holes
Water line
Drainage holes Coarse gravel
Tray to catch liquids
A modified plastic garbage can makes a
worm composting bin for garage or cellar.
Holes allow for ventilation and drainage.
Moisture levels are maintained by keeping
a few inches of water in a bottom layer of
gravel. The worms and bedding materials
are separated from the gravel by a round
wooden divider.
26 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
The Right
Worms
The worms that live in your
outdoor compost pile are not
the best species for a closed
worm composting system. Some
worms, such as nightcrawlers,
will not survive long in captivity.
Your best bet is to order worms
from a reputable worm dealer.
Red wigglers (Eisenia fetida or E.
andrei) are generally considered
the best species of worms for
composting.
A small worm bin will even fit in your
garage or cellar.
Be patient! You may have to wait up
to 6 months or a year before collecting
castings from your bin for the first time.
It takes the worms this long to get ac-
climated and start reproducing enough
to fill the bin.
Buying Compost
If its inconvenient or impossible to
compost where you live, you may want
to buy this valuable soil amendment.
We cant give you a brand-by-brand
comparison because most commercial
composts are produced and sold locally;
you wont find the same products in
South Dakota and Tennesseeor even
in Nashville and Memphis.
Even so, Rodales Organic Life col-
lected 30 bagged composts from stores
across the country. The package labels
offered very little information, and
recommended application rates varied
widelyfrom 4 inches to only 110 inch.
When we opened the bags, we were in
for more unpleasant surprises. Several
manure-based composts were so wet
and gooey that they looked like brown
Play-Doh. A couple of the bags reeked
of ammonia, which is a sure sign that
they werent fully composted. And
several more contained shredded wood
and bark that were mislabeled as com-
post. Lab tests performed at Woods
End Research Laboratory in Mount
Vernon, Maine, revealed even more
problems, including excessively acidic
or alkaline composts, high salt levels,
and improper application rates on the
labels.
As we analyzed all the data, we
discovered four easy ways you can test
compost quality at home.
Touch. The texture should be loose
and granular, with little or no recogniz- open them, and thats fine. Avoid any
able wood or bark. If the compost isnt
loose enough for you to spread and
work into your garden beds easily,
dont buy it.
Look. The color should always be
dark brown or almost black. Avoid
products that are light in color. They
probably contain too little organic mat- and find its not up to these standards,
ter and too much soil. Its easiest to tell either take it back or dump it in an
the true color if you let the compost
sample dry out.
Lift. Compost should be moist, not dry
or soggy. One of composts biggest ben-
efits, once its in the soil, is that it can
hold up to 212 times its weight in water.
Back to Contents
But in bagged products, excess moisture
makes the compost difficult to spread.
It also means that if the compost is sold
in 40-pound bags (as most of them are)
and you buy a wet product, youll be
paying for water, not compost. (Heft-
ing a bag will give you a good idea of
its moisture content. If it feels like a big
glob, the compost is probably too wet;
if it feels loose, it is probably drier.)
Sniff. Ideally, mature compost will
have a nice earthy smell, but this isnt
a reliable test for bagged compost
at least not right away. Thats because
the plastic bags restrict the oxygen
supply to the organisms that release
the earthy odor. If you do find an
earthy, woodsy odor, youve prob-
ably struck black golda mature,
good-quality compost. Most bagged
composts will probably have a slight
musty or barnyard odor when you first
products that have a strong unpleas-
ant smell (ammonia or sewer gas, for
example) because the odor indicates an
immature compost that might dam-
age plants. If you dont want to smell
it, dont put it on your garden. (Some
stores may not let you inspect a bag
before you buy it. So if you buy a bag
unplanted area of your garden until the
odor dissipates.)
Note: Contact your local municipality
or cooperative extension office to learn
if they offer compost free or for sale or
can suggest a source.
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 27

How Can I Use
Compost?
Using compost is the key
to having a healthy, beautiful, and pro-
ductive garden. In this chapter, youll
find out how to know when compost is
finished, when to use it, and how much
to apply. Then you can just sit back and
let this black gold work its magic in
your soil.
When Is It Finished?
For most garden uses, compost should
be well finishedin other words,
28 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
most of the organic materials in the pile
have finished decomposing, leaving you
with crumbly, dark humus. Unfinished
compost can slow the germination and
growth of many plants, so be especially
careful to use finished compost in seed-
starting mixes and seedbeds. (For fall
applications or mulching, its okay to
use less-mature compost.)
So how can you tell when you have
finished compost? Finished compost
has a pleasant smellearthy and
sweetand is a uniform dark brown.
Finished compost also is spongy, moist,
and crumbly. If the pile was hot, the
temperature has dropped and further
turning wont cause it to heat up again.
And other than the occasional corncob
or eggshell, individual organic materials
arent identifiable.
For further proof that your compost
is ready to use, try one of these two
simple tests.
The sniff test. Put a handful of
moist compost in a glass jar, seal the lid, next to the plants. Or perk up plants by
then put the jar in a warm, sunny place. watering them with compost tea every
After 3 days, open the jar and sniff.
Good-quality, finished compost should see Brewing Compost Tea below.)
have an odor similar to that of freshly
turned soil. If the compost smells rotten less-mature compost into the soil of
or foul, it isnt mature.
The germination test. Mix equal
parts of compost and potting medium.
Plant lettuce or radish seeds in the mix.
At the same time, plant the same kind
and number of seeds in the potting me-
dium. If both groups of seeds germinate
uniformly, the compost is safe to use. But
if growth is slower in the compost mix,
your compost isnt ready.
How to Use It
Finished compost is a versatile material
that you can apply freely at any time of
the year without fear of burning plants
or polluting water. Here are just a few
of the many ways you can use compost.
New beds. Mix mature compost
into new garden beds, 4 to 5 inches
deep. (See How Much to Use on
Back to Contents
p. 31.) The compost will improve the
soils fertility and texture, protect crops
against disease and drought, buffer soil
imbalances, and prevent erosion.
Annuals. Before you seed or trans-
plant annual vegetables and flowers to
garden beds, incorporate compost into
the top 1 or 2 inches of soil.
For a midsummer boost and disease
protection, side-dress plants with
compostapply a thin layer on the soil
couple of weeks. (To make compost tea,
To get a head start, you can work
vegetable beds in fall. By the following
spring, when its time to plant, the com-
post will have finished decomposing.
Brewing
Compost Tea
To make compost tea for treating
houseplants or small outdoor
areas, place a burlap or cloth bag
filled with finished compost in a
bucket or your watering can, and
add water. For a larger amount,
say for the entire garden, place
a compost-filled burlap bag in a
barrel. Agitate it for a couple of
minutes, or let it sit for a while,
then pour. You can use the same
compost this way several times.
The remaining compost should be
dug into the soil or used as mulch.
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 29

how can I use compost?
Perennials. Before planting long-
lived perennials, work plenty of compost
into the garden bed. After that, most
perennials will appreciate an annual ap-
plication of compost in early spring.
To apply, push back any mulch, then
gently work the compost into the soil
around the base of the plant. If the soil
is dry, water after applying the compost,
then replace the mulch.
Heavy feederssuch as astilbes,
chrysanthemums, and peoniesbenefit
from a second application of compost
midseason, either by side-dressing or
watering with compost tea.
Trees and shrubs. When planting
trees and shrubs, dont backfill the plant-
ing hole with compost-amended soil.
This will only cause the roots to ball up
inside the hole rather than branch out
into the surrounding soil in search of
much-needed nutrients. Instead, plant
your tree or shrub first. Then, apply
compost to the surface of the soil above
the root zone.
For moderate or heavy feeders,
apply a layer of compost annually.
(Remove mulch if you use it, then
replace it after you apply the compost.)
If your soil is poor, or the tree or shrub
is growing too slowly, apply compost in
both spring and fall.
Lawns. Spread compost when plant-
ing a new lawn. Also apply compost at
least once each season to rejuvenate an
existing lawn. A 14-inch layer is enough
to feed the grass, prevent disease, and
improve water retention.
30 M a k e c o m p o s t i n 1 4 d ay s
Containers. Finished compost is
excellent for use in containerseither
as a seed-starting medium or in potting
mixes. Unlike common garden soil,
compost contains few, if any, pathogens.
On the contrary, compost contains
disease-suppressing microbes.
Before you use compost in contain-
ers, screen it to remove large pieces.
(Throw those pieces into your new
compost pile.) Add sand, vermiculite,
or other ingredients to create your own
custom potting mix.
Mulch. Spreading compost as a mulch
suppresses weeds and conserves mois-
ture as it simultaneously feeds nearby
plants and protects them from disease.
Note: To maximize composts scientifi-
cally proven disease-preventing powers,
use it slightly before its fully matured and
crumbly, and apply it as a surface mulch
instead of digging it in.
Cover-crop decomposer. When
turning under cover crops in late sum-
mer or fall, work a little compost into
the soil at the same time. Finished com-
post will help the fresh green material
decompose.
When to Use It
If you plan to mix the compost into
your garden soil as a fertilizer or
amendment, the best time is 2 to
4 weeks before you begin planting.
Thatll give the compost enough time
to stabilize in the soil. But if you plan
to spread the compost on the surface of
your soil as a disease-preventing mulch,
you have two choices: You can apply it
several weeks before you plant or apply
it a few weeks after seeds have sprouted
and the young plants are up and grow-
ing. Thats because fresh compost
can inhibit the germination of some
seedsparticularly beans, radishes,
lettuce, and some onionsespecially in
dry regions.
How Much to Use
A surprisingly moderate layer of com-
post will produce wonderful results.
Here are some basic guidelines for how
much compost to apply:
n For one-time applications to new gar-
den beds, mix 1 to 2 inches of mature
compost into the top 4 to 5 inches of
soil. For new garden beds in the Deep
South or high rainfall areas, double that
initial, new-bed application to 2 to
4 inches.
n If you live in a short-season, very
cold area (Zone 4 or colder), where the
nutrients in compost arent used up or
leached away as fast, start with 1 inch
for new beds, then add slightly less than
1
2 inch annually.
n After the initial application, a yearly
application of just 12 inch of compost
that contains about 1% nitrogen will
provide ample nutrients for excellent
plant growth in most regions.
n If you garden in the South or in a re-
gion that has very high rainfall or sandy
soil, double the annual rate to 1 inch.
Back to Contents
n In midseason, side-dress heavy
feeders (such as corn, tomatoes, and
peppers) and fast growers (such as
cucumbers and squash) with inch of
compost to keep plants growing strong.
n Before squeezing in a succession
planting of vegetables, flowers, or cover
crops, apply 18 to 14 inch of compost
(the higher amount in hot, sandy, or
rainy areas) to get the planting off to a
well-fed start.
Computing Compost
Coverage
How do you know how much compost
to spread to end up with a layer of a
certain depth? There are several ways
to measure. Use these guidelines as a
starting point:
n One 4 4-foot bin containing a
2-foot-high layer of finished compost
= 32 cubic feet (or 237 gallons or
1,280 pounds). Thats enough to cover
384 square feet with a 1-inch layer.
(Generally, raw materials shrink to
about half their original size as they
decompose, so a 4-foot layer of
materials becomes a 2-foot layer of
finished compost.)
n One cubic yard of finished compost
= 27 cubic feet (or 200 gallons or
1,080 pounds). Thats enough to cover
324 square feet with a 1-inch layer.
n One 5-gallon bucket of finished com-
post = 1 cubic foot. Itll cover 12 square
feet, 1 inch deep.
R o d a l e s o rg a n ic l i f e . c o m 31
 Back to Contents
how can I use compost? welcome to
3. Divide by 12. This will tell you how

Screening
Compost
Screen your finished compost to
eliminate unwanted bugs and to
prepare it for these uses.
n In potting mixeslarger pieces
can block root growth inside pots.
n On seedbedsmaterials that
havent decomposed can inhibit
germination or seedling growth.
n For mulching perennial beds
where you want a more uniform
appearance.
n To cover 100 square feet with a 1-
inch layer, youll need about 8.3 cubic
feet of compost. If you slice one
cubic foot of compost12 12 12
inchesinto 1-inch layers, itll cover 12 to grow deeper than usualyoull also
square feet.
Heres how you can figure your
compost needs:
1. Measure the area you want to cover
with compost and determine the square slightly immature compost on the sur-
footage.
2. Multiply by the number of inches of research shows that compost has the
compost you wish to cover the bed with. power to prevent many common plant
o
many cubic feet of compost you need.
(Keep in mind that a typical 4 4-foot
bin holds 32 cubic feet of finished
compost.)
A handy measuring cup for
finished compost is a 30-gallon garbage
can. It holds about 4 cubic feet of
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