Taiwan Panorama 2017 Nov

10611 42 11
Vol. 42 No. 11 November 2017

CHINESEENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
11
Taiwan Panorama
Green Taiwan:
Achievements in Conservation

NT$150
US$5
HK$40
600

Flaming Torches, Leaping Fish

5
T he fishermen of Jinshan have long used carbide
torches to catch fish off Taiwans northeast coast,
from May to September. The fishermen add water to
9 calcium carbide to produce acetylene gas, which when
ignited burns with an intensely bright flame. The light
attracts schools of sardines that leap out of the water and
into the fishermens nets. Sometimes known as sulfuric
fire fishing, the tradition is a Taiwanese cultural treasure.
(photo and text by Chuang Kung-ju/tr. by Scott Williams)

106111
6511

Publisher: David Tawei LEE

Director: Paul Kuoboug CHANG

Editor-in-Chief (acting): DUAN Shu-hwa

Deputy Editor-in-Chief: Ivan CHEN

Editor: LIU Yingfeng

Writers: Cathy TENG, CHEN Chun-fang,
Lynn SU

Director of Layout: HU Ju-yu

* * *
Art Editors: HSIAO Ying-tsen, Henry WANG

Photographic Coordinator: CHUANG Kung-ju

Photographic Director: Jimmy LIN

Photojournalist: LIN Min-hsuan

English Editors: Audrey CHEN, Robert TAYLOR,
Phil NEWELL

Japanese Editors: YAMAGUCHI Yukina,
Shila SHIH

Senior Administrative Editor: DUAN Shu-hwa * * *

Deputy Manager: CHEN Jyun-wei
20142

Chief of General Affairs: CHEN Shu-ing PUZANGALAN

General Affairs: S.H. LEE

Circulation: HO Shih-lung, Sunny CHI

100512
Address: No. 2, Tianjin Street, Taipei 10051,
Taiwan, ROC
100998-398 FOCA
E-mail: service@taiwan-panorama.com
PO Box 8-398, Taipei Fuxing Bridge, Taipei City
10099, Taiwan, ROC
+886-2-2397-0633
Fax: +886-2-2397-0655
http://www.taiwan-panorama.com/

l
Protecting the Earth, EDITORS NOTE
Preparing for the Future
T he growth of interest in humanitys re-

lationship with the natural world stems
not just from environmental awareness, but
the Kojiki collection of mythological tales.
But just what is the equivalent in Taiwan?
Novelist Ho Ching Yao scoured historical
SUBSCRIPTION RATES:
Republic of China: NT$150 per copy,
NT$1500/year, NT$2600/2 years
Asia & Pacic Regions: US$40/year,
US$72/2 years by airmail
North America: US$32/year,
also from a worldwide focus on environmen- and literary anthologies, materials compiled US$55/2 years by regular mail
Elsewhere: US$45/year,
tal protection. The establishment of national by Taipei Legend Studio, and a series of US$80/2 years by airmail
parks serves as a benchmark in the struggle yaoguai-inspired products created by Chiaos Sinorama Magazine
Creative Inc., in an attempt to trace the or-

951 Taiwan
to protect environments and species. Panorama
In this months cover story, we visit four igins of yaoguai, flesh out depictions in the
GPN: 2008000038 ISSN1991-525X
of Taiwans national parksTaroko, Yushan, fantasy genre, and nurture the conditions

Tai jiang and Ken tingto explore various for development of the genre in Taiwan.
186

environmental topics, from the conservation What kind of sparks fly when Asian
229
+886-2-2915-0123
of the Formosan sambar and the black-faced calligraphy meets Western art? In one +886-2-2397-0633
spoonbill to Yushans Walami Trail and the approach, calligraphy was re-imagined 0128106-5
1501500
ecology of the Hengchun Peninsula. These through global artistic perspectives to create 2600
are multifaceted issues that involve species, new works that combine various media Taiwan Panorama (USPS 000624) is published
monthly, US$32.00 per year, by Kwang Hwa
environments, ecologies, local economies, allowing music, fashion, and multimedia Publishing (USA), Inc., 3731 Wilshire Blvd 104,
Los Angeles, CA 90010, USA. All rights reserved.
and ecotourism. Our comprehensive report- to play supporting roles. In this issue we Reproduction in whole or in part without written
permission is prohibited. Periodicals postage paid
ing reflects the immense pride in the success visit master calligraphic artist Tong Yang- at Los Angeles, California.
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Kwang
of Taiwans various conservation efforts. tze, who takes us on a journey through the Hwa Publishing (USA), Inc., 3731 Wilshire Blvd
104, Los Angeles, CA 90010, USA.
The article Homeland of Mackerel: 90 world of global art.

Years of Nanfangao, published in Taiwan Children of various ages perform in the Readers in the US & Canada should subscribe
through Kwang Hwa Publishing (USA), Inc.
Panorama on February 2nd, 2014, delved Puzagalan Childrens Choir, named for the Kwang Hwa Publishing
(USA), Inc.
into the history of the fishing port Nan- word for hope in the Pai wan language, 3731 Wilshire Blvd 104, Los Angeles, CA 90010,
USA
fangao. In this issues article Reawakening voicing the aspirations of their hometowns Tel: 1-888-829-3866 Fax: 1-213-389-0021
Nanfangao, we explore the towns future on an international stage. This performance

and a series of initiatives intended to restore troupe, along with the Taiwan Smile Folk- President: K.T. YANG
General Manager: Linda HU
this treasured little place to its former glory. song Group, which draws from Taiwans Assistants: WU Chia-ying, Thomas KOH
Recent trends in popular culture have co- folk singing traditions, and Formosa Circus

alesced around local storytelling, especially Art, which melds acrobatics, juggling, dance
tales of yaoguai (mythical demons), which and theater, as well as the athletes of the

All rights reserved. Photos and articles may not be
have inspired numerous stories told through Taipei Universiade featured in this months
reprinted without our permission.
If you wish to reprint any of our articles or
fiction, animation, theater, and video games. Photo Essay, illustrate Taiwans unique pas-
photographs, please contact our senior
administrative editor.
The West has its own canon of mythology, sion and energy just in time for the National
Damaged or misbound copies returned to us will
be gladly replaced.
China has mythological classics including Day celebrations. They provide an enviable
The Classic of Mountains and Seas and Strange demonstration of Taiwans soft power. l
Stories from a Chinese Studio, and Japan has (Ivan Chen/tr. by Robert Green)

CONTENTS 10611 42 11 Vol. 42 No. 11 November 2017
8
Cover Story
6
Green Taiwan:
8

The Black-Faced Spoonbills
Second HomeA Model for
Transnational Conservation

20
20

In Search of the Formosan Sambar
Taiwan on the Front Lines of Wildlife
Conservation

30

The Hengchun PeninsulaA Green
Treasure Store of Culture and Creativity

40
40
Postcards from Home

Along the Walami Trail
A Pristine Natural Ecosystem

Editors Note
2 1 52
Protecting the Earth, Flaming Torches, Leaping Fish Variety Pages
Preparing for the Future

10611 42 11

Vol. 42 No. 11 November 2017
CHINESEENGLISH BILINGUAL MONTHLY ISSN 1991-525X
11

Taiwan Panorama

Green Taiwan:

NT$150
US$5
HK$40
600
10610cover.indd 2 2017/9/26 10:50
Photo Essay

60
Universiade Triumphs:
Cover: A leisurely raft cruise through Tainans Sicao A Celebration of Our Nation
Green Tunnel reveals the stunning beauty of Taiwans

precious wetlands. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
Global Outlook
70

Flouting Calligraphic Conventions:
Tong Yang-tze Breathes New Life
into an Old Art

Around Taiwan
70 78

Reawakening Nanfangao:
A Fishing Harbors Cultural Star Rises

Cultural Trends
90 FOCA

Where Dreams Take Flight:
Formosa Circus Art
FOCA
78 100

Taiwan Smile Folksong Group
Keeps Taiwanese Jazz Alive

108

A Creative Wellspring Uncapped: The
Fictionalized History of Taiwanese Yaoguai

108
116

The Puzangalan Childrens Choir:
Spreading Hope to the World

COVER STORY
The Green Tunnel of Tainans Sicao Wetlands.
2 Taiwan Panorama 2017/08

Green Taiwan:
3
COVER STORY

The Black-Faced Spoonbills Second Home
A Model for Transnational Conservation
1988-1989
NGO

1990300
1502017
3,9412,601
66%
1992

NGO

2009

Just one-tenth of the area used for aquaculture in the

Qigu District of Tainan would be enough to meet the
needs of the black-faced spoonbill and its companion
birds when they are wintering in Taiwan.


Lowering the water level in fish ponds after the fish

are harvested has a clear impact on the ponds use
by black-faced spoonbills and their companion water
birds. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
In 1990 there were only 300 black-faced spoonbills

in the world, and less than 150 of them came to winter
in Taiwan. But in 2017, their worldwide population
stands at 3,941, of which 2,601 wintered in Taiwan, ac-
M ankinds connection with the sea

allows the concepts of conservation
of natural resources, preservation of hu-
counting for 66% of the global total and ranking first
in the world. This turnaround is a proud achievement
for wildlife conservation in Taiwan, and is a result of
man culture and history, and sustainable non-governmental groups working as one with the gov-
lifestyles to find a perfect interpretation in ernment. It also stands as a shining example of interna-
Taijiang National Park. Let us really think tional cooperation in conservation.
about the value of this place, how to carry Conservation from the grass roots
forward the wisdom of our ancestors, and It was in about 1988 or 1989 that we discovered that
our interactions with other species, so as the black-faced spoonbill was one of the most endan-
to attain the goal of ecological balance and gered bird species in the world. Through the efforts of
raise the quality and visibility of Taiwans NGOs, the Forestry Bureau, and local governments, a
contributions to international conservation. popular conservation consciousness gradually emerged,
to allow this species to continue to exist, says Lafei
Kuang-ying Huang, chief of Taijiang National Parks
Liukong Service Station. This conservation effort has
been a long process. At that time, internally Taiwan
was going through the controversy surrounding the
proposed construction of the Binnan industrial park on
the coast of Tainan, promoted by companies like Tuntex
11
410
10
4

2011
23

410
and Yieh Loong, as well as the
impact of an incident in which
some black-faced spoonbills
were shot. Meanwhile on the
international front the US
This black-faced spoonbill seems to
had asserted that Taiwan had be bashfully shielding its face from the
failed to effectively halt the camera with its white feathers.
sale of products made from pro-

tected species, and had imposed
economic sanctions under the Pelly
Amendment. These events injected a
degree of respect for the environment, and
consideration of environmental issues, into the policy- Six months for people, six months for birds
making of the time, which had thus far placed economic The fortunes of the black-faced spoonbill are closely
development first and foremost. connected to aquaculture practices. Traditionally, milk-
Against this background, in 1992 the Wild Bird So- fish have been raised along the Tainan coast in shallow
ciety of Tainan was founded, with the primary object ponds, and the slack period between fish breeding cycles
of protecting the black-faced spoonbill. It was only coincides with the spoonbills overwintering season,
through years of effort and collaboration between local allowing the birds to feed on small fish and crustaceans
NGOs, experts and scholars, and influential local fig- remaining in the ponds after the milkfish are harvested.
ures, along with the concerted assistance of the Tainan However, the higher-value groupers and clams that
county and city governments, that Tai jiang National have been increasingly popular with fish farmers in
Park could be successfully established in 2009, securing recent years require deeper ponds, and are reared inten-
a safe wintering habitat for the black-faced spoonbill in sively all year round with no rest period, in operations
the Qigu Wetlands and the Zengwen River estuary. that generate large amounts of effluent. Because the

A perfect combination of local landscape and black-faced spoonbills, spotted in Tainans Tucheng area.
13

During the black-faced spoonbills reproductive

season, the adult birds grow yellow breeding
plumage on their heads and breasts.
By using the HappyMilkfish mark, which certifies

that the fish were raised in spoonbill-friendly ponds,
producers can build brand value.

2016

20

15


black-faced spoonbill is a wader, the depth of the tradi- Describing the experimental bird-friendly aqua-
tional shallower milkfish ponds was well matched to its culture operations on the Qigu Campus of National
feeding habits, as was the timing of the milkfish rearing University of Tai nan, Associate Professor Wang Yi-
cycle. But the trend toward year-round intensive aqua- kuang of the Department of Ecology and Environmen-
culture in deep ponds has greatly restricted the spoon- tal Resources says: The whole experiment was mainly
bills food sources, threatening the birds survival. based on the seasonal nature of shallow-pond milkfish
Let people use the ponds for half the year, and let farming, which operates from April to around the end
birds use them for the other half. From April to Octo- of October. After the fish were harvested, we undertook
ber, fish farmers traditionally raised milkfish in shallow comparative experiments with lower water levels. The
ponds at low densities and with minimal inputs. Then, comparisons showed that lowering the water levels had
from October to April, it was the season when the black- a significant effect on the use of the ponds by black-
faced spoonbill overwinters in Taiwan. After the milk- faced spoonbill and other waders such as great and lit-
fish were harvested, the water levels in the ponds were tle white egrets, as well as some shorebirds that forage
lowered, and the birds were able to feed on the assorted on beaches and exposed mudflats at low tide. The result
small fish and crustaceans that remained in the bottoms of several years of experimenting was that adjusting
of the ponds. This seasonal cycle dates back 300 years the water level in fish ponds had a clear impact on the
to when the Dutch first introduced milkfish farming to numbers of birds that gathered there.
Taiwan. It embodies the concept of preserving an or- The brand effect of the black-faced spoonbill
ganic, dynamic and sustainable cultural landscape, an It would only take one-tenth of the aquaculture
idea that also implies ecological protection. area of each fish farm in the Qigu District being used
15
2016

2010
CBD-COP10

2013

BirdLife International

2014
Dr. Shibaev

Banding a black-faced spoonbill.
(facing page) A black-and-white mixed-

breed black-faced spoonbill (center),
photographed in Kaohsiungs Qieding
District. The band on the birds leg helps
researchers track its movements and
understand its way of life.

(right) A spoonbill conservation team
from Taiwan has gone to Korea three
years running for collaboration and
exchange in the areas of academic
research and habitat management.
for low-intensity shallow-pool aquaculture, to meet the birds for half of each year, and are combined with local
needs of the black-faced spoonbill and its companion ingredients to be canned or to make fish fillets and fish
water birds when they winter in Taiwan, says Lafei balls, vendors can make use of the HappyMilkfish
Huang. Shallow-pool milkfish farming can also be used certification mark for spoonbill-friendly fish ponds to
to raise fish fry and fingerlings for use as bait by the create a branding effect and build brand value.
deep-sea long-line tuna fishing industry, and the Fish- After the passage of the Wetland Conservation Act,
eries Research Institute is currently promoting the pro- the very first wetlands certification mark was granted
duction of soft-boned milkfish under 20 centimeters in to Tai jiang National Park, says Chang Wei- chuan,
length, for which it has published recipes. director of the National Parks Division at the Construc-
Milkfish mainly eat algae, so they are a low-energy, tion and Planning Administration of the Ministry of the
low-carbon aquaculture species. By contrast, when car- Interior. Besides expressing the importance of conserv-
nivorous fish species eat smaller fish and crustaceans, ing our wetlands and the black-faced spoonbill, we also
at each link in the food chain only a tenth of the calories hoped the environmentally friendly products bearing
of the prey go to add weight to the predator. And when the mark would appeal to consumers. As hoped, the
milkfish are raised in shallow ponds that are left to the spoonbill-friendly HappyMilkfish brand products
17

NGO

l

sustainably. This is also the main reason why in 2013
Taijiang National Park, the Forestry Bureau and the Tai-
nan City Government jointly received a Conservation
Achievement Award from BirdLife International, the
worlds largest bird conservation organization.

A model for international cooperation
The tradition of milkfish farming, introduced by the Dutch
300 years ago, has sustained an organic and dynamic Taiwan has always played a part in international
cultural landscape, and is inherently protective of the
natural ecology. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
conservation efforts on behalf of the black-faced spoon-
bill. Lafei Huang mentions, Besides collaborating with
Korea, mainland China, and Japan, in 2014 I was able
to work with Dr. Y.V. Shibaev, an ornithologist at the
Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences,
and I took along some satellite tracking tags. Then in
that went on sale at the Taipei Expo Park in 2016 proved the spring of 2016 I succeeded in attaching tracking tags
very popular, and are said to have sold out almost as to two black-faced spoonbills born on a small island in
soon as they were put on display. the Russian Far East that is the species most northerly
Developing ecotourism known breeding area, with a reproductive community
Ecotourism has three distinguishing features. Firstly, of several dozen birds. This is the first time that Taiwan
it has a high cost per individual visitor, to limit the and Russia have attempted this kind of project.
number of people who take part. Secondly, it is intel- In addition, Taijiang National Park and the Wild Bird
lectual in nature, and tourists who participate gain in Society of Tainan worked with Professor Wang Ying of
terms of knowledge. Thirdly, profits must come back to the School of Life Science at National Taiwan Normal
the locality. Lafei Huang says, If fish farmers can be- University to put leg bands on many tens of black-faced
come guides, then in the off season for aquaculture they spoonbills. Thanks to information sharing with Korea,
can use their boats to guide tourists. Qigu Lagoon has Japan, mainland China, and Vietnam, they gradually
15 fishing rafts that do ecotourism, and fishermen take traced out the range and migration routes of the black-
visitors out on lagoon tours. Besides learning about faced spoonbill.
the black-faced spoonbill, they can also get to know an The significance of spoonbill conservation
important national wetland, see the black-faced spoon- If forests are the lungs of the Earth, wetlands are the
bills companion bird species, and experience the envi- kidneys, responsible for cleaning the water of a whole
ronment of Taiwans largest lagoon. watershed, as well as their role in flood detention. They
When it comes to accommodation for tourists, Philip are also important source areas for producing fish fry
Tung-hui Kuo, executive secretary of the Wild Bird So- and crustacean larvae. The conservation of the Qigu
ciety of Tainan, argues: Building big hotels is not as Lagoon and surrounding wetlands is the result of the
good as operating homestays with local color. A stay in umbrella species status of the black-faced spoonbill.
a renovated, formerly abandoned old house in a fishing Efforts by government, NGOs, academia, and indus-
village combines well with ecological mini-trips to the try have enabled all kinds of spoonbill-friendly mea-
birdwatching hides of Taijiang National Park or through sures to nurture this dynamic, organic cultural land-
the Sicao Green Tunnel, and with other activities such scape, allowing it to continue to operate sustainably,
as painting. A lifestyle that combines nature, culture, and this is the greatest significance of the conservation
and heritage embodies the spirit of the Satoyama and of the black-faced spoonbill. For what it represents is
Satoumi Initiatives that were proposed in 2010 at the the aquaculture history of Tai nan over the past 300
10th Conference of the Parties to the UN Convention on years, as well as how we understand and treat this salt-
Biological Diversity, and allows residents of coastal ar- water wetland that is part of our lives. l
eas to use their way of life, along with their knowledge, (Ivan Chen/photos courtesy of Taijiang National Park
understanding, and conservation of the land, to live Headquarters/tr. by Phil Newell)
19
COVER STORY

In Search of the Formosan Sambar
Taiwan on the Front Lines of Wildlife Conservation
21

80
1984

1989

The Formosan sambar prefers a habitat that includes
coniferous forests and Yushania bamboo grasslands.

As its economy began to flourish in the early 1980s,
Taiwan was more able to focus on wildlife conserva-
tion. The establishment of Kenting National Park in
I
1984 was a milestone, says Wang Ying, a professor in
magine a mountain without its ani-
National Taiwan Normal Universitys School of Life
malseven with the beauty of the land-
Science. We finally had an official agency and a geo-
scape intact, it would be like a mountain
graphic location for protecting Taiwans wildlife.
without a soul. The Formosan sambar deer,
The birth of the Wildlife Conservation Act
which lives in the high mountains, is Tai-
Wang took part in the drafting of the 1989 Wildlife
wans largest herbivore, and it was once
Conservation Act. At that time, the Convention on Bio-
driven to the verge of extinction by hunting
logical Diversity (a treaty signed at the 1992 Rio Earth
and the destruction of its natural habitat.
Summit) was being widely discussed, and the interna-
The success of conservation efforts has re-
tional community was taking a greater interest in local
versed this trend in recent years, and the
wildlife and local communities, especially the rights
population is expanding. Because the sam-
and traditional practices of indigenous peoples.
bar has no natural enemies, however, new
After the Wildlife Conservation Act took effect, dis-
challenges have gradually become apparent.
cussion turned to which species were endangered and
The past and future of this iconic species
most in need of attention. Taiwans largest herbivore, the
should prompt us to think deeply about the
sambar, was extremely rare at that time. Mountain walk-
close relationship between mankind and the
ers and climbers described catching sight of the deer as
environment, especially the high mountain
akin to winning the lottery, a rare piece of luck indeed.
environment.
This sparked the interest of Wang Ying, who was already
conducting research on wildlife conservation.
Wild sambar on the brink
In the past, deer breeding farms required a supply
of wild sambar for their genetic input. To meet this
3-4 demand, Aborigines set out to capture them. In those
Sambar hinds and fawns often travel in groups of
three to four. days, a large sambar could fetch as much as most peo-
ples annual earnings, Wang says.
Overhunting driven by the sambars high commer-
cial value led to rapid depletion of the population.
23

Sambar researchers lug heavy equipment on mountain treks
for two to three days to reach their research sites.

2000 20

20

1986-1987

1989-1990


A research team led by Wang conducted a survey of of Mt. Panshi and set up camp in a spot called Exclama-
the commercial consumption of sambar in 19861987, and tion Pond, a small valley-shaped depression that resem-
found that sambar meat was in short supply in restaurants bles an exclamation mark when the water level is low. Af-
serving mountain game dishes. Moreover, a tuberculosis ter setting the nets, all the men in the party had to urinate
outbreak at deer farms in 19891990 caused the popula- on them, because human urine attracts the sambar.
tion of wild sambar to plummet, making a bad situation During the day they practiced strategies to drive a
even worse. While the population of Reeves muntjac sambar into the nets, if one should appear nearby. The
deer numbered in the tens of thousands, sambar could be tent was about 20 meters from the nets, and when all was
counted in the hundreds, Wang says. It is no easy task to ready, the team waited for a sambar to walk into their
revive a population that has dwindled to such an extent. trap. Suddenly they heard a noise outside. Quick! Get
A research milestone the tranquilizers ready.
Yen Shih-ching, a postdoctoral fellow in the Depart- Yen and another researcher charged from opposite di-
ment of Animal Science and Technology at National rections. Shouting and turning on lamps, they made the
Taiwan University, recalls his first experience capturing a animal turn and bolt directly into the nets.
sambar. Lugging two nets, each weighing nearly 20 kilo- Once the net closed around the sambar, the other team
grams, the research team, with two Aboriginal hunters members held down the netting, then the vet quickly tran-
as guides, climbed into the mountains. On the first day it quilized it. After about ten minutes, the tranquilizer took
rained, and carrying the wet gear alone was exhausting. effect, and they could finally open the net. At that point,
After two days of hiking, they reached the western peak some of the stronger members of the team rushed forward.

Each deer has its own personality. Mature bucks are generally
the boldest. The picture shows a particularly inquisitive
sambarnamed Nosy by the researchersgazing unafraid
at the equally curious onlookers.
25

2009715

6

Dama Lingav

Dama Lingav

6

The research teams base camp at Exclamation Pond.
They generally spend up to a fortnight at the camp.

Researchers trapping a sambar.
Dr. Yen Shih-ching holds up an antenna to get a fix

on the location of a sambar.
One bound the hind legs, another bound the front legs, pans were all afloat. After scrambling to wake the rest
and yet another secured the head. Tennis balls were used of the team, they moved everything to higher ground.
to cover the antler tips to avoid injuries. Next the sambar They then assumed that their troubles were over, but
was weighed, and the vet drew blood, collected samples after sleeping a couple more hours, they found that the
of body parasites, measured the deers height, length, and flood waters had risen again. For the rest of the night the
neck circumference, and fitted the animal with a trans- team was forced to move again and again. It continued
mitter collar. When the team was finished, the vet injected to pour outside, and inside the tent everyone was soaked
the animal again to revive it, and it was released back into to the bone despite their rain gear. Meanwhile a group
the wild. It was July 15, 2009, when Wang and Yen led the of sambar looked on as if watching a comedy as Yen and
first research team to successfully capture a sambar and his team scrambled about, spending a miserable night.
fit a tracker on it. It can be counted as a milestone in the Emerging environmental concerns
quest to track and study the Formosan sambar. The success of conservation efforts in recent years
Trouble on the mountain has led to exponential growth in the sambar population,
Of course research cant proceed so smoothly every and with no natural enemies, the deer have begun to
time. One night the skies opened and rain came pouring negatively impact the forests. This has been especially
down. The tent was pitched in a small ravine with rock noticeable in high-elevation coniferous forests. Recent
walls on both sides, and the sambar trap was situated off incidents of large-scale tree loss have occurred primarily
to the side. After sleeping for a bit, Yen got up to get a in forests of fir and Taiwan hemlock trees. Yushan Na-
drink of water. He discovered that the tents groundsheet tional Park has been particularly hard hit.
was soft and squelchy underfoot, and quickly looked out- According to the preliminary findings of a research
side. To his dismay, he saw that slippers, metal cups, and team led by Weng Guo-jing, associate professor at
27

Preserve
Conserve

4 8

10 50

Conservation
l

jor groupsthe sambar found in the area of Taroko and
Shei-Pa national parks, and those of the Central Mountain
Range. The division resulted from habitat changes some
100,000 years ago, as alpine glaciers receded and snow-
lines rose following an ice age. This is a major discovery
and gives us a better understanding of the sambar family.
Balancing ecology, economy, and conservation
Thirty years ago, Wang Ying notes, we talked of
preservation rather than conservation. At the time, the
United States was dealing with animals on the verge of
extinction, and therefore they sought to preserve them.
Only after an animals population grew did they switch
to conserving them.
Wang feels that the term conservation is best used to
describe the management of an animal population after it
has been protected and has regained the ability to breed
successfully. Once its population has recovered, it can also
be exploited economically. Yen points to the case of sika
deer in Japan. About a century ago, the sika had nearly
gone extinct in Japan due to overhunting, and because of

their scarcity hunting was prohibited. But not long after
Sambar stags have antlers, while the hinds have none. the hunting ban, the sikas natural predator, the Japanese
wolf, was itself hunted to extinction. Subsequently the
sika population flourished, growing exponentially. As
National Pingtung University of Science and Techno- a result, hunting was once again permitted, and today
logys Institute of Wildlife Conservation, parasites are in Hokkaido 80,000 sika are culled each year. The deer
more prevalent in sambar droppings collected in some population, however, remains too large, and the animals
areas of Yushan. After measuring levels of condensed cause considerable damage to farms and forests.
tannins in the droppings and in samples of tree bark and The situation of the sambar in Taiwan today resem-
of Yushan cane (Yushania niitakayamensis), the bamboo bles that of the sika in Japan a half-century ago. Wang
species that is the sambars main food, taken from var- thinks that the increase in the species population thanks
ious areas where the deer feed, the researchers discov- to conservation can pave the way for ecotourism, which
ered that while the barks of different trees had differing allows people to appreciate the sambar firsthand, cul-
levels of tannins, the substance was undetectable in the tivates a reverence for the animals natural habitat, and
bamboo. The tannins can help kill parasites in the diges- raises popular awareness of ecological conservation in
tive tract, and this medicinal benefit might explain why general. The population growth should also allow for the
the deer strip tree bark. Research is ongoing, and we establishment of designated areas in which Aborigines
will have to wait for more conclusive results to confirm can hunt. This would help limit sambar numbers to a
whether this self-medication hypothesis holds water. suitable level and reduce environmental degradation. It
While research is raising some worrying questions, would also help preserve traditional Aboriginal hunting
it is also delivering some good news. Sun Li-jhu, head rituals and the dignity of hunting culture by preserving
of the Conservation and Research Section at Ta roko time-honored ancestral hunting techniques. Moreover, it
National Park, points out that data resulting from four would enable the sambar deer to act as a bridge linking
years of cross-regional monitoring and the collection of ecology, conservation, and economic needs. l
more than a thousand excrement samples indicates that (Ivan Chen/photos courtesy of Yen Shih-ching/
Taiwans sambar population can be divided into two ma- tr. by Robert Green)
29
COVER STORY

The Hengchun Peninsula
A Green Treasure Store of Culture and Creativity
31

93

10

1982

2006

10

The Lanren Creek in the Lide Community flows amid
primeval forest.

Gangkou tea, buffeted year-round by sea breezes

and fhn winds, has a full-bodied flavor.
Most tourist visitors to the Hengchun Peninsula have

no idea that away from the bustling main street of Ken
ting, various ecological communities large and small lie
scattered across the surrounding area. These commu
C oming to the Hengchun Peninsula at the

southern tip of Taiwan, you find yourself
at the tail end of the Central Mountain Range,
nities are widely known for their rich and fertile ecolo
gies and downtoearth style, and in recent years their
distinctive local resources have laid the foundation for
where long, narrow plains are intermixed the development of ecotourism. They constitute a green
with hills and plateaus, and a skirt of coral treasure store that fosters culture and creativity and pro
divides the land from the surrounding wa- motes environmental education.
ters of the Pacific Ocean, the Bashi Channel, A community is a rich knowledge base
and the Taiwan Strait. The powerful north I used to hunt birds of prey, but now I protect them.
east monsoon that blows from September to So says Song Renzong, chairman of the Lide Commu
March often creates hot, dry fhn winds on nity Development Association. Behind these words lies
the lee side of the mountains. Here the diverse a tortuous journey of conflict and doubt. Looking back
flora and fauna and the hardy and tenacious to 1982, when Kenting National Park was first created,
people have together carved out an existence, a large part of the Hengchun Peninsula was included
giving birth to a unique cultural landscape. within the boundaries of the park, which spans Heng
chun, Manzhou and Checheng Townships. The lives of
local residents suddenly changed: no longer able to hunt
and gather at will as they had before, they found their
livelihoods to be greatly affected, and numerous times re
lations between officials and local people became hostile.
33

Large numbers of gray-faced buzzards pass through Taiwan in

the fall, so the species has come to be called the National Day
bird. (courtesy of Lishan Eco Company)

2016
200

30 2015

Pi


It was not until 2006, when the park administration in graduate school at NPUST, and came with Chen Mei
invited Chen Meihui, a professor in the Department of hui into the local communities. Lin says: We tried to
Forestry at National Pingtung University of Science and change the ideas of the residents. We let them know that
Technology (NPUST), to work with local communities, these ecological resources did not have to be hunted to
that starting in Sheding, communities began to exper have economic value, but that through conservation, they
iment with ecotourism as a way to enable residents to could generate demand for services such as tours, accom
make a living while also promoting ecological conser modation and catering that would bring in income and
vation. Today, after more than ten years of stepbystep allow the communities to operate sustainably. Mean
efforts, community-based ecotourism is well established while Cai Wanrong, who works for Lishan Eco, says: The
in Hengchun and is gradually becoming better known. communities themselves are a rich knowledge base. These
Like Song Renzong, many people have undergone a things are all part of the residents lives; its just that they
dramatic turnaround in their mindset. In the Lide Com had never been selected, refined, and packaged.
munity, for example, the migrating birds of prey that pass
through each autumn were not only a supplementary

source of protein for the people who eked out a living in
this mountainous area; they also could be sold as speci Major land crab species that live in the intertidal zone:
the red flower crab (Sesarmops intermedium), the Lintou crab
mens, generating appreciable income. However, with over (Scandarma lintou), and the blue land crab (Cardisoma carnifex).
10,000 birds being killed each year, Lide became notorious
as a graveyard of raptors. But now that Song
has turned from hunter to guide, the knowl
edge and acute observational skills that he
picked up in his hunting days make his
tours endlessly interesting.
Ten years ago Miles Lin, who later
founded the Li shan Eco Company to
gether with a classmate, was studying

Gangkou residents
take turban shells that
they have collected
and place them in the
intertidal zone, helping
hermit crabs to find
homes.
35

(top) The Wind Translator, made by artist Chen Jinhui,
tries to record the traces of the fhn winds that blow
down from the mountains.

(above) Agricultural products made from a
local variety of black soya beans,
cultivated by people of the Gangkou Community.

The Lide Community band performs Song of Lide, demonstrating the pure and
unaffected character of the people of this Aboriginal community.
(courtesy of Lishan Eco Company)
With appropriate guidance to the residents from the has been there for the communities throughout this pro
project personnel, not only did visitors benefit, the resi cess, has in recent years begun to build on the founda
dents themselves also got the chance to renew their knowl tion of ecotourism by experimenting with more diverse
edge of the beauty of their localities, and from there to and integrated programs, and has brought in outside
identify with them. As Gangkou Village chief Yang Xiulan resources and teams from different fields in the hope of
says, It was only after the park administration and Pro creating greater synergies and also helping communities
fessor Chen came here that we found out our community to increase their income, as only in this way will commu
had so many treasures. Research by crab expert Dr. Liu nities stay on the path of conservation for the long run.
Hungchang has shown that Gangkou has over 30 species Ecotourism as promoted in the early days placed the
of land crabs. This seaside community also produces dried emphasis on observing the natural flora and fauna and
fish, such as flying fish and mahi-mahi, as well as grow the landscape; human cultural elements played little
ing large quantities of Manzhou black soya beans, and part. But from 2015, with the assistance of the national
Taiwans lowestaltitude tea. And it is home to the grove park administration and Lishan Eco, artistsinresidence
of weeping figs recently made famous by Ang Lee in his have been sought for each community. During their so
film Life of Pi. All these special features make Yang Xiulan journs these artists are supposed to interact with their
declare with a smile: In Gangkou were really benefiting host communities, understand the realities of local life,
from our geographic position. The NT$2 million in in and give back through their creative work, thereby add
come that tourism earned for the community last year has ing new attractions for community tourism.
also reinforced residents attachment to their hometown. In Lide, for example, when you enter the villages
Introducing outside resources communal vegetable garden, you can see the work
As ecotourism got started, project staff also began sur Wind Translator, made by artistinresidence Chen Jinhui
veying local biodiversity, training residents as specialized using beach flotsam such as ball floats and styrofoam.
ecological guides, and organizing them into teams. As When the powerful northeast monsoon winds blow, the
operations took shape, the communities were given a free machine draws random patterns in the sand, sometimes
hand to manage them for themselves. Lishan Eco, which deep, sometimes shallow. Its fascinating to watch.
37

With the transition to ecological conservation,
it is now possible to see sika deer on the
plains of the Hengchun Peninsula,
constituting a real attraction for tourists.

6
4
But what community residents most treasure about
Chen Jinhui is not this artwork, but his role as a catalyst in
founding a community band. Lide is an indigenous com
munity and the residents have a knack for singing and

dancing, while Chen is highly skilled at African drum
ming. Once during a beach cleanup, Chen picked up a
piece of sea trash and started drumming on it, turning that
piece of flotsam into a percussion instrument. He also be
gan teaching the residents drumming techniques, and so it
was that they formed a band, performing Chens arrange
ments of old Amis melodies handed down in the region.
Today, if you visit Lide, you can have the opportunity

to hear the residents singing Song of Lide, a melody that
feels very old but is filled with vitality, accompanied by
l instruments recycled out of trash.

Green economics giving back to the community, while achieving the goal
Thats not all. Lide Community has also linked its eco of education through entertainment.
logical resources with environmental education, training In terms of operating method, there are links be
six specialist teachers to take on the task of environmen tween the different fields of creative and cultural life,
tal education in Manzhou Townships government de education, and tourism. The target audience ranges
partments and the four local schools. This year they even from travelers coming from outside, to Pingtung res
won a National Environmental Education Award. idents, to local students. And in upgrading from eco
Lide is by no means the only case of combining eco tourism to the level of an even broader green economy,
logical resources with education. Local communities in all things they remain true to the initial aspiration of
have in recent years several times cooperated with the maintaining the local ecology and environment. Inside
Chen Wu Xian Educational Foundation, taking advan this enormous green treasure store, there are enough
tage of ecological resources to hold summer camps for resources and enough inspiration for multiple uses, and
primary and middleschool students. The foundation, they can be utilized inexhaustibly, so long as we are
set up by master baker Wu Paochun, who himself grew willing to treat and use them well. l
up in the Pingtung countryside, upholds the spirit of (Lynn Su/photos by Jimmy Lin/tr. by Phil Newell)
39
COVER STORY

Along the Walami Trail
A Pristine Natural Ecosystem
41

A big rock on the Walami Trail that is shaped like
a great white shark.

maravi

1921

28

30

13.6700


T he Taiwan Railway Administrations
Pu yuma Express races along the East
Rift Valley. We get off at Yuli in Hua lien
Today this region is protected in the name of conser
vation, and we have come here to visit the fascinating
ecology of this mountain forest.
County, where we transfer to a bus that goes From military road to ecological trail
to the end of the asphalt road that is Taiwan Walami comes from the Japanese warabi (fern or
Provincial Highway No. 30, where it meets bracken), which sounds similar to the word maravi (to
the unpaved Walami Trail. follow) in the Bunun language, and it can be surmised
This expanse of mountain forest, in the that this place got its name from the similarity in pro
eastern part of Yushan National Park, was nunciation. Todays Walami Trail is part of the Batong
in days gone by an important living and guan crossmountain military road, which opened in
hunting area for the Bunun indigenous peo- 1921. The road was built by the Japanese to secure their
ple. During the Japanese era (18951945), governance over the areas indigenous peoples and to
the area experienced an incident of fierce re- connect Eastern with Western Taiwan.
sistance against the Japanese by indigenous Stepping with us into this pristine mountain forest
people. The trailhead is also the point from is Gao Zhongyi, who has served at the Yushan National
where for the last decade and more, Black Park for over 28 years. A member of the Bunun indig
Bear Mama Hwang Mei-hsiu has been go- enous people, in days gone by he was a hunter, but
ing deep into the Dafen oak forest to study today he is a national park conservation ranger. His
the Formosan black bear. Countless scholars hunters temperament has by now disappeared, but the
have studied the ecology and explored the acute powers of observation that are the trademark of a
history of this place, and the long trek to hunter have not declined. Scanning the trail and forest
visit Yushan itself also starts from here. with eagle eyes, he points to a rock face and says, Those

In the mountains of Walami, one can occasionally catch
sight of a Formosan black bear. For safetys sake,
its best to keep your distance.
43

Gao Zhongyi points out a spot where the bark of a tree has been torn off;
this is the work of a sambar deer.
1985
2000


Gao Zhongyi has observed how this kind of spiral scarring on
an incense nanmu tree is caused by a hornet, Vespa vivax,
peeling away the bark to use as nest-building material.
At last, a false viper (Macropisthodon rudis) that is willing

to be photographed.
are hoofprints from some Reeves muntjac that passed

by here this morning. He also identifies the marks
where a Formosan black bear dug into a tree trunk for
honey. Seeing the world through Gaos eyes, we sud
denly become aware of the powers of a true detective,
and the forest comes alive for us through his explana
tions and descriptions.
From the trailhead to the Wa lami Cabin, the trail
mainly follows contour lines. The total distance is 13.6
kilometers, but the change in elevation is only 700
meters. When the road was constructed, bridges were
built whenever a river or stream was encountered. The
path rises gradually, and is easy and comfortable to
walkthis is a trail made for traveling on foot. Animals
seldom take this broad and open road. Gao Zhongyi
points toward the mountainside, at a small track that is
barely visible amid the vegetation, and says: That path
is like a freeway: all the animals go that way. Another
trackthe provincial highway in Gaos parlanceis shan National Park for enabling us to experience these
the path taken by mountain goats, sambar, and muntjac. scenes and these feelings.
This humorous description helps us to imagine the way Gentleness that doesnt interfere
of life of animals in the mountain forest. Yushan National Park was founded in 1985, though
At the next smooth rock face in the valley, Gao the Walami area only became an ecological conser
Zhongyi tells us that occasionally you will see mountain vation zone in 2000. Before the park was established,
goats sunbathing there, and Formosan macaques also because the area contains natural resources such mar
enjoy taking a breather at this spot. Though we dont ble and sapphire, for a time it was planned to divide it
have the good fortune to see muntjac, sambar, or wild into several mineral extraction zones, with mining and
boar with own eyes, they come alive in our minds, like quarrying concerns eyeing the area greedily while wait
an animated film, and its as if we can see the sambar ing for the completion of the New Central CrossIsland
lapping water from a stream with their tongues, or the Highwaywhich was slated to follow the route of the
macaques climbing and jumping in the trees. Japanese military roadafter which they could take
Imagining these images, and the daily lives of ani possession. Fortunately, the creation of Yushan National
mals, we cannot but thank the conservation work of Yu Park preserved this natural primeval forest.
45

Hikers praise the Walami Cabin as
being of five-star quality.
28


Gao Zhongyi says that in days gone by, before hunt Following the rhythms of nature and keeping interfer
ers went into the mountains they would light a match to ence to a minimum is the current ethos of conservation.
see which way the wind was blowing. If the wind was We halt our steps at the Walami Cabin, planning to
blowing toward the place they wanted to go, they might head back down to the trailhead the next morning. Lets
as well call off the hunting trip, because the animals leave the rest of the mountain forest for black bears to
would smell them coming and run away. In Hwang play in, leave it to the living things that reside in this
Meihsius book Black Bear Notebook: The Story of Me and paradise! Two days of journeying allow us to under
the Formosan Black Bear, she writes that the Bunun had stand that noninterference should be the way humans
many taboos relating to hunting, which had the effect of express gentleness towards nature.
limiting their hunting activities, making them effectively Organic Walami
a code of conduct governing the indigenous peoples co After completing our 28kilometer hike, we visit the
existence with nature. organic farms of nearby Lamuan, a Bunun indigenous
All along the route Gao Zhongyi stays out in front, us community. Although they lie outside the national park,
ing his machete to do a little pruning whenever he runs these are the first fields to be irrigated with water from
across vines or branches that would obstruct walkers, the Lakulaku River after it flows into the lowlands.
and moving aside any fallen rocks to keep the path level. This land has been cultivated by the Bunun people
(()
People from the Lamuan indigenous community together
have promoted the cultivation of authentic organic Yushan
Walami Rice. From left: Lin Yonghong, his wife Chen Meiling,
Lai Jinde, his wife Gao Chunmei, and a fellow villager.
47

The organic fertilizer sprayed by Lai Jinde restores nutrients to organic fields.

for many generations. For many years they used con
ventional farming methods, and during the busy sea
A ladybug in a rice field.
son the air often carried the acrid smell of pesticides,
which created quite a contrast with the environmentally
friendly conservation practices of the national park.
Therefore the Yushan National Park headquarters in
vited E. Sun Bank, the Yinchuan Sustainable Farm, the
TseXin Organic Agriculture Foundation, and the Hua
lien District Agricultural Research and Extension Sta Liu Baohua of the TseXin Organic Agriculture Foun
tion to help farmers to switch over to organic farming. dation says that he doesnt like to call unwanted plants
They started with technical guidance and demonstra weeds, because although they affect the growth of
tions by experienced organic farmers, and proceeded to the intended crop, the environment doesnt belong ex
certification, purchasing, processing and packaging, for clusively to us humans, and they too have the right to
a product they named Yushan Walami Rice. exist. This is surely the most important spirit to have
Lin Yonghong is a farmer who led the way in re for coexisting with nature!
sponding to the call for organic cultivation. The intention of being friendly to the
Asked whether organic cultivation doesnt earth earns rich returns from nature.
require more labor, Lin replies: Not neces Besides the fact that the volume of
sarily. If you go about it the wrong way, organic rice production has been
then naturally its arduous. When you first increasing year after year, an eco
prepare the land, he explains, you have to logical survey by Professor Peng
make sure to get the soil very flat, so that Jenjiun of the Department of Life
depth of water in the fields is uniform, because Science at National Taitung Univer
only in that way will weeds not spread easily. sity showed that organic agricultural
As for the dreaded channeled applesnail, the bane practices had restored the natural abilities
of rice farmers lives, nowadays Lin Yonghong peace of the land, and that within the organic fields a
fully coexists with it. When the level of cellulose in the rich array of species had reestablished an ecological
rice plants rises, the snails no longer want to eat them, defense network, with enough predators to keep pest
and they switch over to eating weeds, which are softer. insects in the fields under control.
So they help us out with weeding along the way, says Farmers have even found in their fields a Taiwan
Lin with delight. endemic freshwater fish that is listed as endangered,
Another farmer, Lai Jinde, and his wife Gao Chun Kikuchis minnow (Aphyocypris kikuchii).
mei, have often gotten out from under the covers on As the Yushan Walami brand name has gradually
a winters night to sleep among the paddy fields, to become better known, in the past year or two the com
keep ducks from messing up their freshly planted rice munity has started to promote ecological experience
seedlings. Lai takes the organic rice he has cultivated tours, with farmers one after another joining the ranks
and harvested himself, and dries it in the sun himself, of guides to introduce the story of organic rice.
and hulls it himself, and cooks it into sweetly fragrant Walking barefoot through the soft mud of the paddy
rice, saying Its especially deliciousit has the taste fields, feeling the warmth of the water from the Laku
of sunlight. This is a footnote to the arduous work of laku River on our skin, when we see amidst the rice
a farmer. stems and leaves a ladybug of the species Micraspis
After the hard work, there comes a feeling of peace discolor in its red and black garb, a strange flutter runs
of mind. These words of Lin Yonghongs encapsulate through our hearts. We hope that you too can go and
the mindset one must have for organic farming. When share the same experience. l
striking a balance between crop yields and health, what (Cathy Teng/photos by Chuang Kung-ju/
is most important is to peacefully coexist with nature. tr. by Phil Newell)
49

Ellisa Yao
40

Ive been reading Taiwan Panorama for years,
from my barefoot youth all the way through my time
abroad, because it captures the moment and makes it
Thank you, Taiwan Panorama, beautifully eternal. (Ellisa Yao, Norway)
for the light you have shone upon
this land for so many years.
(Jullian Chu, New Taipei City)
Taiwan Panorama has its own space in my
memories because then I get to hold on to not only
my own memories of good times, but Taiwan
Panoramas brilliance as well.
As someone who has lived abroad for (Xu Zhilian, Taipei)
40 years, I have a particular fondness
for Taiwan Panorama because it offers
content like National Geographic,
writing like Time, and a
layout like Fortune. I love Taiwan Panorama because it lets me read about
(Kent Wang, USA) Taiwanese trends, customs, and history in other languages.
(Daniel Liao, Taoyuan)
Thank you for accompanying us on Taiwan Panoramas 40-year

journalistic odyssey. The heartfelt letters we have received
have encouraged us to be bold in launching the magazine
onto the next leg of its journey, and we look forward to
traveling with you for years to come....
To subscribe, please use the form in the back of the magazine.

Knock on Wood

Knock on Woodby Dooley Wilson

knock on wood
touch wood

F I X

320 316

* * *
53

XL100cc

280 240


B B C a l l
p o l o 5 O 5 S O S
A 1314 520
OL
AT M
B B C a l l
55

0 2 0 4

Marquis de La Fayet te
57

50

380 288


59
PHOTO ESSAY
Universiade Triumphs:
A Celebration of Our Nation
photo by Chin Hung-hao

61

Gold medal success shows our determination
to stride out into the world!
913690
Track and field master Cheng Chao-tsun turned in a performance of 91.36 meters in the javelin
throw, becoming the first Asian to break the 90 meter barrier. (photo by Chin Hung-hao)

58142
A standout weightlifter for Taiwan in the 58 kilo weight class, Kuo Hsing-chun set a world record
and won the gold medal in the clean and jerk with a lift of 142 kilos. (photo by Chin Hung-hao)
63

Moments of jubilation bring together the entire nation.

65
Mens singles table tennis competitor Chiang Hung-chieh.

Mixed doubles table tennis bronze medal winners Liao Cheng-ting and Chen Szu-yu.

Perseverance and tenacity symbolize Taiwans indomitable spirit.
9 Mens nine-ball singles gold medal winner Hsu Jui-an.

Rhythmic gymnastics competitor Song Yu-han.
67

Congratulations to the competitors,
congratulations to Taiwan!
Happy National Day!
(photos courtesy of the Organizing Committee
of the Universiade/tr. by Phil Newell)

69
GLOBAL OUTLOOK

Flouting
Calligraphic
Conventions
Tong Yang-tze
Breathes New Life
into an Old Art
S eptuagenarian Tong Yang-tze has long stood at the cut-

ting edge of her era, bringing Western techniques of com-
position to the narrow confines of Chinese calligraphy. Her
unruly character forms, energetically applied to paper, have
lifted contemporary calligraphy from traditional handicraft
to modern art. She aims to pass along the art of calligraphy
to the young, and her calligraphy in recent years has grown
only more playfully unruly, as she has deconstructed her
characters brushstrokes and brought them to the realms of
fashion, jazz and multimedia. In the process she has given
calligraphy, an art richly imbued with ancient Far Eastern
aesthetics, a new life in the Westernized era of today.
courtesy of At Ease Studio
71

20

100
2011

Tong Yang-tze has been bringing
her calligraphy to cross-disciplinary
performances with a bunch of young
friends. Together they are breathing
new life into the old art of calligraphy
and putting young people in touch
with their cultural roots. From left:
Chen Shao Yen, Tong Yang-tze,
Chen Yan-ren, and Kunter Chang.

Tong Yang-tze used Taiwan incense
cedar and yew to fashion the
character (chengsincerity).
By breaking out of the confines of
ink and paper, the work, located in
Songshan Cultural and Creative
Park, points to the essence of
calligraphy. As Tong describes it,
Sincerity rises from the earth!

Famous calligrapher Tong Yang-tze holds the spirit of weak triumphs over the hard and strong. Behind cal-
an artist and the cultural concerns of a proud East Asian. ligraphy, there are profound Asian insights.
The renowned architect Eric Yao, who has known Tong does not so much fear the loss of calligraphy,
Tong for 20 years, says, Most notably, Tong is very per- as worry that in modern, Westernized society, we are
sistent in finding the meaning inherent within Chinese slowly but surely losing cultural roots of which we
characters. She takes beloved traditional calligraphic should be intensely proud. Consequently, she fre-
styles, such as official script and standard script, and quently looks to foster cross-disciplinary collaboration
breathes new life into them, erasing the boundaries of through calligraphy as she transmits this constantly
traditional calligraphy via modern interpretations. evolving cultural tradition to the younger generation.
In truth, Chinese calligraphy, a classical art that has Deconstructing calligraphy
been passed down for thousands of years, holds greater Tong doesnt regard herself as a calligrapher per se.
meaning than simply serving as an important repre- From the standpoint of art, she believes that ancient
sentation of Asian and Chinese culture. Calligraphy is Han- and Tang-Dynasty calligraphic styles can be
a product created by hand. It represents the application moved into the present day, but she aims to give them a
of human effort to a soft brush and flowing ink that greater variety of forms and expressions that will help
renders unique versions of textual symbols on paper. to raise calligraphy from the stuff of historical records
As opposed to the Western emphasis on man gaining to the realm of art.
mastery over nature, it adheres more to the attitude From past works of hers that she had rejected, she
expressed by Laozi in the Dao De Jing: The pliant and picked out a total of 100 that she felt had satisfactory
73

20143

+2016

parts, and in late 2011 created an exhibition of core cal- Calligraphy involves character forms, the mixing of
ligraphic components entitled Silent Symphony, Musical ink, the rendering of ink marks, the overall arrangement
Calligraphy. Those deconstructed brushstrokes ended of brushed black ink and blank white paper, the sound
up looking like a series of captivating abstract paintings, of the characters read aloud, and the aesthetic beauty
challenging peoples preconceptions about calligraphy. that comes with works that are created in one go with-
Eric Yao, who curated the exhibition, invited pop out any possibility of revision. Add to that mix Tongs
singers, including Cheer Chen and May Days lead frenetic lines, and the result is a rich artistry well suited
singer Ashin, to find musical inspiration from looking at to different creative realms. Reinterpreted by a young
Tongs works. Yang then matched the calligraphies with generation of musical artists, classical calligraphy has
the music. The exhibit ended up attracting many young been given a youthful twist.
people who might have originally held negative impres- Sao: In the moment in multiple disciplines
sions of calligraphy to come and enjoy. Your music is a bit like the strokes of my calligra-
phy. The first time jazz musician Kunter Chang heard
Tong say that, he was taken aback.
After collaborating on the exhibitions Evoking the
Soul and Sao (meaning disturbance), Chang grad-
ually come to understand that the strokes of Chinese

Performances of Sao gave rise to a wonderful interplay calligraphy, which can be rounded and smooth or wild
between black-clad dancers, musicians and calligraphic ink.
(courtesy of At Ease Studio) and crazy, do indeed resemble his constantly changing
lines of music on the saxophone.
Even more importantly, both are
improvised, never to be recre-
ated in identical fashion.
B e g i n n i n g i n 2014, a n d
continuing for three years, pro-
ductions of Sao, Sao Plus and
Sao 2016all multidisciplinary
mashups of calligraphy with
modern dance, jazz and multi-
mediawere performed in the-
aters. Echoing the spontaneity
of calligraphy, these produc-
tions were staged without direc-
tors, scripts, scores or choreo-
graphy. The performers relied
on multimedia projections
in a three-dimensional space
that created a structure for the
improvised music and dance
to fill in and flesh out. The per-
formances thus demonstrated
tremendous exchange and flow
among the artistic disciplines.
To blend these three artistic
realms, the dancers, musicians
and multimedia designers were
75

Chen Shao Yen successfully reinterpreted the lines of Tongs
calligraphy, highlighting the skills of a young generation of fashion
designers. I very much want people to see for themselves the
brilliance of this new generation, says Tong. (courtesy of eslite)

Fashion is art. Art is fashion.

2011
T20165

l

The exhibition From
Ink to Apparel: A Crossover
between Calligraphy Art
and Fashion Design began
in 2016 and will run for
five years. Last year, young
designers were invited to
create clothes inspired by
the brushstrokes of Tongs
calligraphy. By deconstruct-
ing calligraphy, the shackles
of the Chinese characters
were discarded, turning the
individual strokes into pure
elements of form that could
be easily appropriated into
fashion design. It was right
up fashion designer Chen
Shao Yens alley.
He was especially capti-
vated by the sense of rhythm
in the ink: Her calligraphys
lines are flowing and power-
ful, and they offer a sense of
space and order. Through
the abundant use of skeletal
all required to participate in the entire creative process, frameworks, puffy skirts, padded cotton and pleats,
so that their individual characters and strengths, as well which help to support a sense of three-dimensionality, I
as their personal understandings of the calligraphies, hoped to express a sense of flow in my clothes, and al-
would help to shape that particular version of Sao. low the lines to wrap around the wearers body, so that
Noting that conflict and choice can raise artistic the body and clothes together could engender a sense
rapport and precision, Chang says, You could almost of space. From start to finish these works were in a
describe it as like the state that a medium enters. He continual process of evolution, so the name Chen gave
adds, Once that rapport is established, the need for to them was Metamorphosis.
language gradually disappears, as the performing art- To promote the beautiful art of calligraphy, Tong
ists can communicate with their eyes. By simply look- Yang-tze has gathered some young friends who have
ing at a dancer, you can predict her next move, know returned to Taiwan after studying abroad to take part in
that she is going to leap, and the music can immediately these cross-disciplinary collaborative performances. She
move to help. says that the collaboration gets her, a housewife, out of
Bringing art to fashion the house. Similarly, by turning calligraphy into con-
Most artistic creation comes with an imagined high temporary art, she is also getting more young and old
point, says Tong, but with a truly new concept, where people alike to move from a state of never encountering
is the high point? We let people find it for themselves. calligraphy to taking a new look at an important part of
Apart from bringing calligraphy to performance art, their cultural heritage. l
she has also been staking out a space for calligraphy in (Lynn Su/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
the realm of fashion. tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
77
AROUND TAIWAN

Reawakening Nanfangao:
A Fishing Harbors Cultural Star Rises

A n old fishing harbor that is

nearing its centennial, Nan
fangao is at a crossroads. Like a
setting sun, its former glory once
reflected gorgeous colors against
the clouds as it sank into the
horizon. The night sky brought
the joys of new growth. Now, as
dawn arrives with a rising tide
lapping against the shore, we
awaken to find this harbor town
bathed in an entirely new light.
79

12

Located in Yilan Countys Suao Township, Nan

fangao is a pearl at the edge of the Pacific. It was

Nanfangao boats catch the vast the first modern fishing harbor constructed in Tai
wan, and its outstanding natural conditions have
bulk of Taiwans mackerel haul,
earning the town the moniker
homeland of mackerel. kept fishermen loyal to it.
(photo by Chuang Kung-ju)
Since its establishment in 1923, Nanfangao has

consistently ranked among Taiwans fishing har

bors with the largest hauls, including 99% of the
(facing page) Nanfangao still islands mackerel. The deep Ryukyu Trench conve
has the look of a traditional
fishing harbor. In the afternoon, niently ends just offshore. It functions like a freight
one boat after another returns
to port to unload its catch. elevator, lifting and disgorging the rich marine
bounty of the Kuroshio Current. The schools of fish
that migrate right past the harbor engage in feed
ing frenzies here.
These ideal natural conditionsthe stuff of fisher
mens dreamshave supported consistently large
hauls of fish. A century ago, the town attracted fish

ermen from all over to put down roots. Cai Yuanlong,
chairman of the Suao Fishermens Association, notes
with pride, In its heyday, Nanfangao had the high
est population density in Taiwan.
81

(above) A fisherman with a

weathered face deftly repairs
a net beside the harbor.

The locally caught seafood
at Nanfangao varies with
the season. Consumers are
enamored of the variety.

A new image for a new century the old captains as they unhurriedly await the arrival
With smaller catches and the contraction of the areas of trucks to take the fish from the harbor. Yet amid this
once thriving coral industry, Nanfangaos population languid atmosphere, change is brewing. Nanfangao, a
has been in steady decline over recent years. Its mottled coastal town blessed with great natural beauty, is get
old houses bear silent witness to the passage of time ting an image makeover.
and the changing local fortunes. Although the bustle Its like Im in a race against time, because chairmen
and hubbub of the boomtown are long gone, fishing serve for only four years, says Cai Yuanlong, who took
boats can still fill the harbor, moored in tight rows. the reins as the 19th chairman of the Suao Fishermens
On a fall afternoon with a gentle sea breeze, the dap Association in April. The exhaustion of fish stocks
pled light dances across the waters surface. By piles would be a disaster for mankind. In the future, well
of stretched-out fishing nets at the edge of the harbor, have to show our love for the earth by firmly imple
deckhands with weathered faces drip sweat as they me menting environmental protections. He has a mental
ticulously mend frays and tears. blueprint for an environmentally minded Greater Nan
Sporadically, fishing boats return to unload their fangao. His plan starts with a focus on resolving the
hauls, and the deckhands and auctioneers, cigarettes traffic congestion experienced locally on holidays, and
dangling from their lips, strike up conversations with then turns to raising economic efficiency.
83

7

40

Known far and wide, the gold
and coral Mazu at the Jinan
Temple plays an important role
in local religious life. (photo by
Chuang kung-ju)

(facing page) Liao Daqing, the
owner of the Nanfangao Culture
and History Studio, has thrown
himself into conservation and
local development work.


Electric cars will help to reduce emissions, and the once quite plump, are strikingly smaller too. To people
construction of a mackerel processing plant will turn the in the know, these are warning signs that point clearly
areas ample and varied catch throughout the year into to overfishing. Fish stocks desperately need to recover.
a variety of foodstuffs. That should help to moderate Consequently, strong calls are being made for the adop
the impact of fish price swings and increase fishermens tion of environmentally friendly fishing techniques, so
incomes. Pointing to the Zhu Dayu Culture Museum that egg-bearing fish can peacefully propagate and the
with its wide assortment of processed foods for sale, he oceans bounty can continually replenish itself.
proudly notes, Everyone who has tried our products In July of 2017 some determined environmentalists,
gives them a thumbs-up. Im confident that we can pro including Chen Jia feng and Li Hou tsung, paddled
mote and market them to the outside. canoes along a mackerel migration path with banners
There will also be a mackerel museum, which will declaring mackerels come home. Starting from Nan
document the brilliant history of the fishing harbor. Con fangao, they courageously entered the Kuroshio Cur
necting industry with culture is a future development rent, reaching Japans Ishigaki Island 40 hours later.
goal for Nanfangao. Cai is quite certain that this is the Self-powered, this magnificent feat was nonetheless
direction the harbor needs to be taking at its centennial. aided by modern technology, with electronic equipment
Only by treasuring and documenting local history and ensuring the boats safety as they completed the historic
culture, as well as promoting fun and indepth tours, can journey. The trip by private citizens garnered reports
the area attract tourists from all over to stop and explore. in Japanese media, bringing international attention to
From ocean current to global fame Nanfangaos proud slogan: homeland of mackerel.
Mackerel fishing has been an economic lifeline for The hope is that the endeavor, however small in scale,
Nanfangao. But the truth is that mackerel hauls have de can encourage conservation efforts that will help mack
clined by one-third over the last decade. The fish are also erel populations migrating on the Kuroshio Current to
averaging only twothirds their former size. And the roes, quickly regain their previous vitality.
85


Revival: A view to the future
The Yilan County Government, the Suao Township
Office, the Suao Fishermens Association and other
bodies are placing emphasis on the future development
of this century-old fishing harbor, outlining a series of
steps aimed at fostering seas full of mackerel; blue,
clear seawater; and first-hand under
standing of the sea. The overarching
goal is to revive the fortunes of this 20

jewel of a harbor.

Now in its 20th year, the
Mackerel Culture Festival is a
The sources of income for Nanfang
time when people in Nanfangao
celebrate and give thanks to the
gods. (courtesy of Liao Daqing) aos fishing industry vary by the season.
Mackerel, mahimahi, marlin, shark, and
tuna all make their marks at different

times of the year. As the catch varies,
Expressing the wish that so too do the boats and techniques. The
mackerels come home
and aiming to highlight the wide variety of specialized gear and
techniques is fascinating.
importance of protecting
declining fish stocks,
conservationists paddled out But if these fishing methods are to
from Nanfangao to ride the
Kuroshio Current. (courtesy of continue to be part of local life, there
is a need for a constant supply of new
Liao Daqing)
recruits, for younger fishermen who are

willing to brave fierce weather as they
hone their skills. Catching fish isnt like driving a car,
where gaining a license is all you need to hit the road.
Without three to five years of training, fishermen will of
ten come back to port empty handed, leaving the ships
owner with nothing but a bill for fuel, explains Liao
Daqing, owner of the Nanfangao Culture and History
Studio. Its important that experienced fishermen, who are
walking repositories of fishing knowledge, can pass along
the wisdom they have acquired over a lifetime.
In recent years, local government leaders have con
tinually launched efforts to clean and dredge the harbor,
but it is hard to prevent sediment from accumulating. If
you ask why the water in this channel is so clear, the an
swer is that flowing water was the source. Liao quotes
that famous line of the SongDynasty NeoConfucianist
scholar Zhu Xi (11301200) to emphasize that the only
true cure for harbor sedimentation is the free flow of
water. Just to the south of Basin 2 of the fishing harbor
is Neipi Beach, which faces the open ocean. If several
culverts could be constructed there, they could bring in
87

Nanfangaos beauty lies in
its melding of nature and
culture. The glorious sunrises
along the kilometer-long Neipi
Beach have long attracted
peoples notice.

11

10782017

l

seawater, which could serve to naturally flush away the strong friendship. This years celebration in Nanfangao
accumulated sediment. With water freely flowing, the will also feature cultural exhibits and experiential activ
harbor could stay clean and clear year round. ities, as well as, of course, much seafood to gorge on. All
Mackerel Culture Festival will serve to show off Nanfangaos intoxicating charms.
The 2017 Mackerel Culture Festival will be cele Nanfangaos beauty lies in its unique melding of
brated in Nanfangao on October 7 and 8. There will be nature and culture. If you visit the town early in the
a rich assortment of folk activities aimed at expressing morning and stand on the kilometerlong Neipi Beach
gratitude to the gods. The gold and coral Mazu in the at dawn, you will notice the light reddening like the
Jinan Temple and the gold and jade Mazus in the Nan face of a blushing young girl. The rosy clouds and glo
tian Temple will serve as guardian deities, welcoming rious hues permeating the sky at that time of day offer
the fishthemed floats as they parade by. This year is a gorgeous, everchanging vista that has long attracted
the 20th anniversary of the festivals founding, and the photographers and has earned the town a reputation as
AllJapan Mackerel Association has been invited to at a paradise for painters. Its a view that will forever hold
tend. That group in turn has extended an invitation for peoples attention. l
representatives of Nanfangao to visit Japans mackerel (Lee Shan Wei/photos by Jimmy Lin/
festival in November. The two sides are thus building a tr. by Jonathan Barnard)
89
CULTURAL TRENDS
Where Dreams
Take Flight:
FOCA
37FOCA
130

FOCA 10

FOCAMixMix
FOCA


Formosa Circus Art
FOCA
I interviewed Formosa Circus Art (FOCA) on a
broiling summer afternoon in Taipei. It was 37C
when I visited the troupes corrugated-metal studio
dance. Over the last few years, FOCA has performed
around the world in locations ranging from Cambodia,
Vietnam, and mainland China, to Denmark, France, and
on Shezi Island. The men were practicing shirtless in Germany. The group recently hustled back to Taiwan
the 430-square-meter facility, the sweat pouring off of from August performances in Avignon, France, to play
them in the non-air-conditioned space. Company direc- for the closing ceremonies of the Taipei Universiade.
tor Lin Chih-wei, the only company member in a shirt, Sweat and tears
noticed the sweat soaking my back and suggested that Lin grew up in a single-parent family. To ease the
we step outside to chat about FOCAs history. burden on his mother, at the age of ten he went away
to school at the National Fu Hsing Dramatic Arts Acad-
The troupe, originally known as MIX Acrobatics Theater, emy (now the National Taiwan College of Performing
includes members from a variety of backgrounds. This Arts). He trained hard in acrobatics, and went on to
diversity enables a signature multidisciplinary approach study at the Tai pei Physical Education College (now
that combines elements of acrobatics, juggling, theater, and the Tianmu Campus of the University of Taipei). After
91

2014
FOCA
2011
Mix
2012 FOCA2.52
300045

Mix Obernai IJA

FOCA

FOCA

Sung Chia-cheng performs with a diabolo in
FOCAs annual production of Ol.

graduating, he performed with Paper Windmill The- Lin recalls the sweat and tears they put into establish-
ater, and as a contract dancer with Cloud Gate Theater. ing the troupe. They were still university students when
While at Paper Windmill, he noticed that the acrobats they staged their first show at Taipeis Zhongshan Hall
were always bit players in spite of garnering the loudest in 2012. Though Lin went into the show with confidence,
applause, and wondered: Why do the acrobats always they came out millions in debt. But the performance
play second fiddle? Why cant we be the stars? did open doors for the troupe. The program director
Lin explains that in the years after he graduated from of a French circus happened to be in the audience that
drama school, acrobats career opportunities were limited day and invited MIX to perform at the Festival Pis-
to things like performing in theme parks and touristy teurs dEtoiles 2013 in Obernai, France. Initially unsure
folk villages. Annoyed by the lack of respect for acro- whether the offer was real or a scam, the group heaved a
bats artistry, Lin and a few like-minded individuals from sigh of relief when a formal invitation came the next year,
other fields founded MIX Acrobatics Theater in 2011. accepted it, and began building a name for themselves.
93
FOCA
FOCA vice director Chen Kuan-ting is an expert at juggling hats. His performance in
FOCAs annual production of I Have My Demons Have Me is amazing.

Setting minds at ease
Once the troupe began acquiring a reputation, their
opportunities multiplied. But troupe members had a
hard time keeping up, and invitations to friends to help
out resulted in performances of uneven quality. In gen-

99
eral, performing for a living also means dealing with an
12 unstable income and a high turnover rate. FOCA sought
to address the problem in 2014 by instituting a crazy
new policy: paying its performers a monthly salary.
Hardly any Taiwanese performance troupes pay sala-
ries, but FOCA offers its members NT$25,000 per month
in base pay plus NT$23,000 per performance, enabling
them to take home as much as NT$4050,000 per month.
Vice company director Chen Kuan-ting handles the
troupes choreography, is one of the best hat jugglers
FOCA2015 in Taiwan, and has earned a second prize at an Inter-
national Jugglers Association competition. He says:
The salaries are a really good thing because they let
FOCA received an enthusiastic response to their 2015 performance
at the Tini Tinou International Circus Festival in Cambodia.
95

FOCA2011
2012Young
Stage FOCAMix

FOCA

30 7
FOCA
FOCA
FOCA

7
FOCA 40

us immerse ourselves in our art. Chen himself faced a with a diabolo on Chinas Got Talent in 2011. He was also
difficult decision after completing his military service. a champion at the 2012 Young Stage international circus
His father wanted him to come home and work for the festival, has performed with a Swiss circus, and has
familys metal machining business, and Chen hesitated performed in Germany. He recalls: Everything was too
for a time before choosing to pursue his dreams. easy at first. Later on, things got much harder. He had
Huang Chao-ming, who specializes in street dance, a hard time adjusting when the spotlight dimmed. For-
was at one point working several jobs, including pod- tunately, his FOCA colleagues lent a hand. He was with
casting and personal training, to manage his familys them day in and day out, sharing in the sense that they
heavy financial burdens. He admits: Having a salary is were forging a revolution. Without them, I wouldnt
a huge help! With a steady income, he doesnt have to be who I am today.
spend all his time trying to make money. When things The members of the company average less than
were at their worstwith his grandfather 99 years 30 years of age, and maintain a joyful atmosphere
old and his father in a permanent vegetative state even though the training is tough. Hsu Yue-wei loves
he thought about giving up performing. But then his FOCAs vibe. A graduate of National Taiwan College of
brother, who is 12 years his senior, reminded him: Im Performing Arts, he says: At FOCA, you can talk about
here for the family, too. Huangs brother assumed re- anything. Being in the group also gives him a feeling
sponsibility for the familys financial needs, enabling of accomplishment. He smiles and explains: You get
Huang to continue to pursue his dream. a lot back for what you put into it; you get to perform
Like a family around the world.
FOCA includes no lack of well-known performers. Chao Wei-chen specializes in the Cyr wheel. Having
Sung Chia-cheng made a name for himself performing previously been a member of a dance troupe, he rec-
ognizes how special FOCA is and bashfully admits to
embracing joining FOCA as a learning opportunity. Ive
only been with FOCA for a year, and plan to extend my
contract. Lo Yuan-yang is a juggler with a mischievous
look. Speaking of his love for the circus, he says: If you
dont push forward when youre young, when do you
push? Im aiming to be Taiwans top juggler.
Kuo Ching-te originally studied martial arts and has
been a member of both MIX and FOCA. While a student
at Taipei Physical Education College, he happened to see

(left) FOCA members train together every day to improve their
chemistry. The photo shows Chao Wei-chen (bottom) and
Lo Yuan-yang. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
2015

(facing page) FOCA was invited to the Tini Tinou International
Circus Festival in Cambodia in 2015. In addition to performing,
FOCA engaged in exchanges with other circus troupes, from both
Cambodia and abroad.
97

Eight troupe members demonstrate a

three-tier human pyramid.
(photo by Jimmy Lin)

FOCA some people doing backflips in a parking lot and won-
dered: How do they turn flips in the air and land safely?
Thats amazing! And then he joined them. Having come
1,400
from a different background, he often feels less skilled
than other troupe members, but he has nonetheless

40
found his place in the circus as a ball-throwing clown.
Circus dream project
The troupes passion for the circus enables them
to train intensively. But for all their enthusiasm, its
difficult to keep a performing arts company afloat in
Taiwan, and money is always an issue. Member sala-
ries, performance bonuses, the NT$70,000 rent for their
practice space, and administrative costs add up to more
than NT$400,000 per month. Lin admits that hes cur-

rently in debt, that the company lost NT$400,000 on this
years trip to Avignon, and that it has lost money on
most of its previous performances abroad.

Why does the company undertake such money-
7 losing overseas performances? In the case of Avignon,
6 the troupe members see the festival there as their Har-
vardit offered them an opportunity to broaden their
horizons and have exchanges with the best circus per-

FOCA
formers in the world.
2020
Established some seven years ago, the company
gives more than 100 commercial performances every
FOCA year. One of their goals for the future is balancing their
FOCA commercial work with artistic performances. With
70 FOCA growing, Lin and his partners have begun plan-
ning their next step: launching the Circus Dream Proj-

ect in 2020. This involves introducing their own edu-
cational system and establishing a circus school, both to

create an escape route for members and to help put
FOCA on a sustainable footing.
8 Reflecting on the groups passion and how that en-
ables them to train intensively, my thoughts turn to
the bashful Huang Kuan-jung. A graduate of a dance
program, he doesnt say much, but he does articulate
FOCAs collective goal: The company is like a human
pyramidit takes everyone working together to make

it work. You have to practice the same movements
again and again, thousands of times, and you have to

FOCA be willing to give yourself to your partner.
Thats how theyve supported one another for all
these years. l
(Jojo Hsu/photos courtesy of FOCA/
l tr. by Scott Williams)
99
CULTURAL TRENDS

Taiwan Smile Folksong Group Keeps
Taiwanese Jazz Alive


2016
MV

A s the music video for the album What Are You

Singing? finishes playing at the 2016 Red Dot
Design Awards ceremony, the audience erupts. Pre-
paring to take the stage and accept an award for the
video, Chu Chien-chih, leader of Taiwan Smile Folk-
song Group, is puzzled: No one in the audience is
from Taiwan, and the whole video is in Taiwanese.
Did they somehow understand it? To be sure, the
vast majority of the audience understood none of the
language, but the videos combination of Taiwanese
traditional chant-song and 21st-century creativ-
ity nonetheless earned one of the highest tokens of
global recognition, a Best of the Best Red Dot Award
in Communication Design. Taiwanese culture had
once again surprised the world.
Chant-song (liam-kua in Taiwanese) is a traditional

performing art with some three centuries of history. In
the old days, it was common to see performers at tem-
ple or folk events, sitting on stools in the shade of trees
holding their instruments and singing, heralding a good
time to come.
Such songs are a traditional storytelling form. In the
past the performers were soloists, but in the modern age
its more common to see duos, one on the daguangxian (a
bowed, bass stringed instrument) and the other on the
101

13
2009

1980

Octogenarian performer Yang Xiuqing continues to
dedicate her life to passing on chant-song culture.
(courtesy of Taiwan Smile Folksong Group)

Traditional Chant-song Art by the Council for Cultural
Affairs (now the Ministry of Culture) in 2009, in celebra-
tion of her efforts since the 1980s to preserve chant-song
culture. Chu Chien-chih and Lim Tien-an, now both of
Taiwan Smile Folksong Group, are two of her apprentices.
Despite their relatively late-in-life start, the pair have
been able not only to keep the art alive, but also to inject
new ideas and blaze a new trail for this traditional form.
Chu, who plays the daguangxian, and Lim, the yue-
qin player, have only been Yangs apprentices for some
six or seven years, but each brought with them a strong
background in music, Chu coming from traditional
theater and Lim being a student of traditional Chinese
music. Partnering up and taking on their respective in-
struments, they set to work studying chant-song.
Neither of the two had heard chant-song before
eventually buying one of Yangs early recordings. Id
never heard of Yang Xiuqing before, but I was immedi-
ately struck by the power and vibrancy of the music,
says Chu.
After they began listening and learning more, they
ended up getting to meet Yang and formally becoming
her students.
Cooperation with a Taiwanese twist
As students of Yang, Chu and Lims main tasks have
The daguangxian and the yueqin are common partners

involved not only learning chant-song from her, but also,
for chant-song. more importantly, promoting the art form. A few years
ago, they applied for funding from the Ministry of Cul-
ture to perform at major temple events around Taiwan,
but in the middle of their tour, they found themselves
performing to an audience of one old man. Despite that,
yueqin (a larger, lute-like instrument). The songs tend to they continued.
tell tales of loyalty and honor, generally in Taiwanese, To help expose more people to chant-song, Taiwan
constructed in a traditional form comprising four lines Smile has reached out to other bands and groups for
per stanza, seven characters per line. In the days before cooperative efforts, hoping that through such crossover
television was popular, such songs were an important exchanges, theyll be able to cultivate a new audience of
source of entertainment for the ordinary folk. chant-song lovers and keep the art alive.
However, under the onslaught of television and the In 2014, Miszform Projectmade up of jazz musicians
decline in the use of the Taiwanese language among the from Germany, America, Italy, Slovakia, and Taiwan
younger generations, the old masters began to fall away, sought out Chu, hoping for his help in presenting Taiwan-
leaving the art on the verge of extinction. ese musical concepts in a jazz style. After a summers co-
Learning from a national treasure operation, the group performed a jazz version of Song of
Despite her 83 years, chant-song artist Yang Xiuqing Exhortation, putting a cap on an interesting experiment.
is as energetic as ever. She started her singing journey at Over the following years, such crossover performances
age 13 and went on to create her own vernacular opera have grown in number. In 2017, Yang and Taiwan Smile
style, eventually being named an Important Preserver of were invited to perform at independent music festival
103

2014M I
2017
highhigh
The majority of the songs passed down in traditional

Taiwanese songbooks concern themselves with tales of
loyalty and justice.
Yang Xiuqing and her students Chu Chien-chih and Lim

Tien-an are helping keep traditional chant-song culture alive.

M V

The music video for What
Are You Singing? was shot
in stop motion and used
handwritten lyrics, paper
cutouts, and collages to
enliven the traditional art
of chant-song and make it
more appealing to modern
audiences. (courtesy of
Taiwan Smile Folksong
Group)
Megaport, adding traditional art to the festivals modern trying to pitch her medicines, so she was afraid theyd
rock and driving the crowd wild. After the performance, start leaving, and she began using spoken-word parts to
Chu received a big response and a number of invitations keep the storytelling tight and hold peoples interest so
for cooperative ventures, with many saying that the dis- they wouldnt wander off.
tinctively Taiwanese flavor of chant-song culture was This form of the art has also aroused the curiosity
exactly what theyd been looking for. of the younger generation. For example, for their grad-
Improvising in a Taiwanese mood uation project, National Yunlin University of Science
In addition to its authentic Taiwanese flavor, another and Technology (YunTech) students of visual commu-
enticing aspect of chant-song is its improvisational nature. nication design Huang Yu Qian, Chang Fang Rong, and
Chant-songs draw not only from the classic Taiwan- Wang Bo Ren wanted to do something Taiwanese,
ese-language songbook, but also from current events and and they sought out Chu.
social issues, using these to pique the audiences interest. Taiwan Smile had long been thinking of publishing
Truly great chant-song artists would often lose them- an album of chant-song and producing a video to go
selves in their improvised pieces, weaving entire songs with it. These YunTech students brought a powerful vi-
on the fly. It is this aspect of the art that led to Chu calling sual design to the resulting video. Building on the tradi-
chant-song Taiwanese jazz. tional tale Prince Nezhas Triumph Against the Dragon
Such talent is the fruit of endless experience with per- King, the team added a heaping helping of modern
forming. In the past, chant-singers would use their stories matters; for example, during Nezhas 42-month gesta-
to draw crowds, taking the opportunity to then also pitch tion, his mother gets a consultation with well-known
their wares, with medicine being the most common. doctor and current Taipei mayor Ko Wen-je. Each scene
In her earlier days, Yang Xiuqing would stick with in the music video is shot in stop motion, with hand-
traditional songs for the most part, but later she began written lyrics, paper cutouts, and collages all used to
weaving in spoken sections, creating long hybrid chant- create a vibrant atmosphere and make traditional chant-
songs in which she used the spoken parts to help the au- song a little more appealing to modern audiences.
dience understand the deeper meaning of the sung sec- According to Chu, though, the biggest challenge for
tions. Being blind, Yang couldnt see the audience while the YunTech students was the improvisational nature
105

Instrument in hand, Yang Xiuqing starts her performance with the words Let me sing you a tale....

36
PMV

MV

98

l

of chant-song. Each and every shot in the video was stage, Yang Xiu qing starts up with her well-known
planned, designed, and timed to fit the lyrics with essen- catchphrase, Wanna hear a 98-year-old lady sing?
tially no wiggle room. Ahead of time, Chu discussed the which raises a cheer from the crowd. Taiwan Smiles
story and script with Yang, but nonetheless, every time Chu Chien-chih and Lim Tien-an sit on either side of
Yang stepped into the booth, the song she performed their teacher, with the former reminding the audience
would be slightly different, ultimately even having an that its a good time to clap during the interludes. The
impact on the visual design side of the production. entertaining performance draws peals of laughter from
In the end, though, this inspired creative fusion of the audience, and the air reverberates with the sound of
old and new went on to earn recognition at the Red Dot traditional music as the performers tell the tragic tale of
Awards and help another of Taiwans intangible cultural the Butterfly Lovers Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai.
assets, chant-song, make a splash on the world stage. As another song launches off with the words Let me
It is 4 p.m. on a mid-August day, and the fierce heat sing you a tale, we can only hope that such tales will
of the midday sun has passed. On the grass outside continue to have a long and healthy life in Taiwan. l
Taichungs CMP Block Museum of Arts a crowd of (Cathy Teng/photos by Lin Min-hsuan/
people has gathered, some standing, some sitting. On tr. by Geof Aberhart)
107
CULTURAL TRENDS

A Creative Wellspring Uncapped:
The Fictionalized History of Taiwanese Yaoguai


P op culture has undergone a monstrous re-
naissance in recent years, with books like The
Lord of the Rings, films like Twilight, cartoons
such as Spirited Away and Yo-kai Watch, and even
mobile games like Pokmon Go all incorporating

fantastical elements. Why have fantastical creatures
(called yaoguai in Chinese) proved such a creative
wellspring? Does Taiwan have such creatures of its
own? Fans of traditional monster stories have begun
combing through historical documents for informa-
tion on these creatures, long banished to the fringes
of academic study, and are trying to explain their

charms to others.
While a graduate student in literature, novelist Ho

Ching Yao studied historical novels about Taiwan. But
Ho was also very interested in mainland Chinas and
Japans very entertaining alternate histories. Hard at
work on his own historical novels, he wondered: Is
courtesy of Chiaos Creative Inc.
109

Yao-Guai Matters stresses that the lives of yaoguai
and humans are inextricably linked, making its
point with short stories about yaoguai encountering
modern humans.
2016
49
20175

16241945
Writing under the pen name Shinjitsu Sagasu,
229 Taipei Legend Studios members published a
fantasy novel that interweaves fact and fiction in
a way that invites readers to explore more deeply.

there more to Taiwanese history than
sad and bloody conflicts? Is there
any way to make our history more

When Lo Chuan-chiao (right) and interesting to ordinary people?
Kao Pei-yun (left) formed their studio,
they began by sharing their thoughts Meanwhile, a group of former
on what they were reading, which
then developed into an interest in members of the fantasy clubs of
Taiwanese history and folklore. National Taiwan University and
National Chengchi University were
establishing the Taipei Legend Stu-
dio. Confronted by modern societys
focus on order and efficiency and its
rejection of different modes of think-
ing, the studios members yearned to
loosen societys strictures and create
more space for the imagination. They
felt that fantastical creatures could
provide a doorway to their dreams.
Winnowing wheat from chaff
But, for all that Taiwans tradi-
tional culture is filled with gods and
spirits, the island doesnt have much
in the way of a yaoguai culture. Its
not that Taiwan has no fantastical
creatures, its just that orthodox his-
torians and folklorists havent paid
them much heed. But Taiwans more
than 400-year-long documentary
history is littered with heterodox
discussions.
As with mainland Chinas The
Classic of Mountains and Seas and
Strange Stories from a Chinese Studio,
and with the Greek myths, turning
these stories into a creative resource
requires that they first be collected
and compiled. Recognizing that it is
the repeated use of such stories by
later generations that gives rise to a
yaoguai culture, Ho and the Taipei
Legend Studio have made it their
mission to pioneer Taiwans largely
untouched fantastical terrain.
In 2016, the Taipei Legend Studio
published Taiwans first literary his-
tory of fantastical creatures, Yao-Guai
Matters. The book integrates fiction
111
2

Two years in the making, Taiwan Monsters Brawl is a light strategy
boardgame suitable for all ages. (courtesy of Chiaos Creative Inc.)

and reference material, and includes original short sto- incorporate yaoguai into a variety of fields, like televi-
ries that have each of its 49 fantastical creatures encoun- sion, film, comics, tabletop games, and mobile games.
tering people in the modern world. Co-author Kao Pei- Ho and the Taipei Legend Studio are like farmers who
yun explains: We took the kind of stories that seem like have laboriously tilled the soil and are now waiting for
they would have taken place in a rural village long ago, their harvest. Having banded together with their friends
and put them into a modern setting to see what would to talk about Taiwans yaoguai stories and strengthen the
happen. Luo Chuan-chiao adds: We didnt want to underpinnings of Taiwanese fantasy fiction, they hope
make it seem like yaoguai were things from that past to build the fertile soil necessary to nurture the genre.
that no longer exist. With the books publication, the Speaking through monsters
modern summoning of Taiwanese fantastical creatures The marginality, creative possibilities and just plain
had begun. fun of monsters enable writers to write them however
Ho himself has moved on from integrating fantas- they like.
tical creatures into his fiction to exploring the literary As Ho says, People read for entertainment. The pro-
history of Taiwanese yaoguai. His Taiwan Monster Story, cess is an adventure that ends in quiet reflection. He is
published in early 2017, offers an encyclopedic take on using yaoguai as a new way to package historical nov-
the 229 appearances of fantastical creatures in Taiwan els and make them interesting for ordinary readers, and
recorded in books and newspapers from 1624 to 1945. also as a means to reexamine the land where he lives.
Ho incorporated yaoguai into his novels Fantasy Alley The Legend Taipei Studio is using yaoguai to push past
and Monster Maze, and describes these rich cultural as- the real world, pose challenges to our modern way of
sets as a goldmine and a treasure trove for artists. life, and open up our imaginations. Chiaos, on the other
He says, Rather than just revitalizing a cultural asset for hand, is an illustrator who has created a new model for
my own use, Im hoping to encourage talented people to his business using his drawings of Taiwans yaoguai. He
says that with his new approach, hes aiming to please
himself rather than others.
After collecting and studying a number of yaoguai,
Chiaos chose 20 that he liked, including Ali ka kay, a
star-trapping, child-eating figure that appears in the
legends of Hualiens Aborigines, and Sio-hong, a hot,
dry wind that is a feature of the climate around Ping-
tungs Mt. Dawu. He then interpreted them in his own
artistic style, producing characters that he used to create
postcard books and fold-out books.
The initial success of his designs led to opportu-
nities to cooperate on more diverse projects. Taiwan
Monsters Brawl, a tabletop game he developed with
game designer Erich, is a case in point. Chiaos tweaked
his character designs for the game, making them more
over-the-top and cartoony, and increasing the saturation
of the colors to the kinds of levels used in commercial

In this piece, Chiaos incorporated yaoguai into an old map,
creating an illustration that appeals to children and that he hopes
will also preserve a bit of history. (courtesy of Chiaos Creative Inc.)
113

Ho Ching Yao bought

these sheets of
waifangzhi (a kind of
ghost money) at an
old shop in Tainan.
Their illustrations are
unusual for ghost
money and make them
a folk-art treasure.

9

2016Erich

l

Ho Ching Yao is experimenting with new types of fiction
that build on the foundations laid by local historians.
applications. The unique game concept attracted a great ethnic backgrounds, including German, French, Swiss,
deal of interest when he and Erich raised funds for it Dutch, Japanese, Chinese, and Aboriginal. The fact that
online, and the game itself went on to sell like hot cakes, each inscribed their own imagination on Taiwan has
validating Chiaos strategy of building a brand around helped give rise to Taiwans eclectic cultural character.
Taiwanese yaoguai. Ho says: Taiwans yaoguai come in all shapes and
A beautifully diverse island sizes, reflecting Taiwans all-embracing nature. The
In addition to being a resource for the creative and exchanges, compromises and conflicts between those
cultural industries, Taiwans yao guai can be viewed different ethnic groups gave rise to a syncretic maritime
through the lens of cultural research. The Japanese folk- nation. That was my biggest epiphany from completing
lorist Kunio Yanagita used his studies of Japanese yokai Taiwan Monster Story. Similarly, todays immigrants
(yaoguai) to understand the past, present and future and migrant workers are bringing legends of their own
of the Ya mato people. As Taiwan continues to hurtle to Taiwan, where they are converging into a single
into modernity, its yaoguai provide a great way to ob- larger stream and enriching our cultural imagination.
serve and grasp its national character and culture. Tracing the thread of Taiwans yaoguai casts our islands
Ho says that while writing Taiwan Monster Story, he amazing diversity into brilliant relief. l
skimmed through large numbers of documents and (Lynn Su/photos by Chuang Kung-ju/
historical materials written by people of many different tr. by Scott Williams)
115
CULTURAL TRENDS

PUZANGALAN

9

T he Puzangalan Childrens Choir, which comes

from the extreme south of Taiwan, has this to
say on their Facebook fan page: In the Paiwan lan-
guage, pu zanga lan means hope. The Pu zanga lan
Childrens Choir, composed of Paiwan children, is
a group of youngsters who love singing, are willing
to work hard, and who want a different future. They
hope to use song to bring good wishes and happiness
to everyone, and to bring hope for their own future.
Nine years have passed, and under the leadership
of executive director Tsai Yi-fang and conductor
Muni Takivalit, the choir members of various ages
have used their heavenly musical voices to put into
practice their own manifesto, standing on the in-
ternational stage, confidently singing songs of hope
from their native land before the whole world.

The Puzangalan Childrens Choir:
Spreading Hope to the World

117
2017

10

2008


In the summer of 2017, there could be heard in Italy
the sound of mellifluous voices tinged with a strong fla-
vor of Taiwan. The Puzangalan Childrens Choir, from
the southern tip of Taiwan, which is now in its tenth
year, first won gold at the Musica Eterna Roma Interna-
tional Choir Festival and Competition. After that they
went to the Leonardo da Vinci International Choral Fes-
tival, where they were named as a Grand Prix Finalist,
and received the gold diploma for childrens choir, and
the best choreography prize, as well as the highly com-
petitive female soloist award.
On winning this series of prizes, Puzangalan execu-
tive director Tsai Yi-fang and conductor Muni Takivalit,
as well as the ten-plus choir members, happily enjoyed
their moments of glory on stage. However, back in 2008,
when the choir was first founded, it came about as a re-
sult of a simple educational aspiration by Tsai Yi-fang,
then director of educational affairs at Jiayi Elementary
School in Pingtung County. 2008
Majia Township, where Jiayi Elementary is located,
is an Aboriginal community, with most of the students Moved by educational aspirations, executive director
Tsai Yi-fang founded the predecessor to the Puzangalan
being from the Paiwan and Rukai tribes. Childrens Choir back in 2008. (photo by Jimmy Lin)
Tsai, who had been teaching at Jiayi for over 20

years, observed that students grades plummeted after would be right outside the door, listening discreetly.
they moved on to middle school. So, he thought, why After two months, the childrens voices raised in song
not use a school choir to help them build self-confidence sounded better to him than they had in the past.
through long-term encouragement? He also observed changes in the kids themselves.
This idea happened to match the thinking of the re- On their faces he could see expressions of concentration
cently arrived music teacher, Muni Takivalit. The two of and confidence, and through group singing they also
them got together and assembled the predecessor to the learned the importance of teamwork.
Puzangalan Childrens Choir. Muni Takivalit states that most people assume that
Regular practice changes children in a choir, singing must be the most important thing.
Tsai and Takivalit hoped that the choir, which was But the real key to success in performing choral pieces,
open to pupils of all ages, would develop in the direc- she says, is knowing how to listen. Only if you slow
tion of fixed and regular practice, so they began rigorous down and open your ears, and listen to your collabora-
practice sessions twice a week at fixed times. tors voices, can the sounds be in harmony. Otherwise
However, initially many children showed little interest, no matter how well each section of the choir sings, they
because the practice sessions cut into their leisure time. will just be singing for themselves, explains Takivalit.
Tsai, who says he played the role of a strict supervisor, In 2012, Tsai Yi-fang was scheduled for retirement
was forced to drive into the community and go right to and many of the choir members were going to graduate.
the doors of the missing choir members to look for them. Thinking about the long-term development of the choir,
Tsai and Takivalit divided the tasks involved in run- it was decided to separate it from the operations of the
ning the choir between them. Tsai, who describes himself school, and to use the Paiwan word puzangalan to name
as tone deaf, took care of administrative matters large the now-independent choir.
and small, while the heavy responsibility of leading prac- As luck would have it, before long the childrens
tice sessions fell to Takivalit. But at each practice, Tsai pure, heavenly voices, drilled through long hours of
119

2012
2016
PUZANGALAN

4
2009

Having been through practice after practice, when the choir
members stand on stage their faces show a confident spirit.

photo by Jimmy Lin
practice, found appreciation among talent Their selection to sing at the inaugu-
spotters, and they had the chance to go on ration of President Tsai Ing-wen in 2016
the international stage. raised their name recognition greatly.
That year, at the invitation of the World Their performance of the ROC national
Vision organization, the choir went to anthem, arranged by Muni Takivalit to in-
perform in northern Taiwan. Taking ad- tegrate an old Paiwan melody and chang-
vantage of free time in their schedule, ing the solemn traditional singing style,
the group went to the plaza outside the won widespread acclaim.
National Taiwan Museum in Taipei and Takivalit grew up in the Timur indige-
held an impromptu practice session there. nous community in Pingtungs Sandimen
The brisk music and penetrating voices Township, and is herself Pai wan. It is
attracted the attention of NTM director only since 2009 that she has tried integrat-
Hsiao Tsung-huang, who happened to pass ing old Aboriginal melodies into choral
by. He immediately invited the choir to be pieces. The group has since developed a
guest performers at an exhibition opening. performance style of singing old melo-
The beautiful singing voices at that perfor- dies in new ways.
mance captivated other guests from far- Cultural memories
away Germany, and the group received an Takivalit says that all the Aboriginal
invitation to the International Childrens tribes have old melodies passed down by
Choir Festival in Dresden. After that, Pu- oral tradition, with the singing mechanics
zangalan appeared on stage in countries and modes of sound generation being
including Japan, Hungary, and Korea. different from each other. The old Paiwan
121
melodies are sung by producing sound from the chest
and the throat at the same time, giving the voices a pene-
trating quality.

In arranging pieces, Takivalit not only incorporates the
unique features of the Paiwan singing style, she also adds
the old melodies, sung in chorus with a polyphonic struc-

ture, into traditional choral pieces.
She says that in the past most choirs simply applied
Western methods, expressing beauty in voice through
vocal resonance techniques. But in the last decade, the rise
in local consciousness has encouraged people to seek out
elements of local culture, and this is what prompted her to
have the children perform old indigenous melodies. Thus

singing has brought the choir members closer to their
vuvu (Paiwan for grandparents), searching for that gen-
erations roots. And many older people who had stopped
singing the old melodies can now hear the familiar tunes
VuVu of their childhoods in the voices of their grandchildren.
Just as Tsai Yi-fang and Muni Takivalit hoped nine
years ago when they started the choir in school, singing
has definitely brought changes in the children. Close your
eyes and listen to the voices of the Puzangalan Childrens

9
Choir, and you can hear the hope and memories of this
land that once lay untapped. l
(Liu Yingfeng/photos courtesy of
l Puzangalan Childrens Choir/tr. by Phil Newell)

Taiwan Panorama The Order Form for
N.A. Area Only
Bringing Taiwan to the World
()
I want to subscribe to Taiwan Panorama:
New subscriber
Renewal/subscriber No.
1 yearUS$32
2 yearsUS$55
______________
Subscription to begin with__________(month)__________(year)
Name
Address
Tel.
As a gift for a friend
Gift card to read

Name
Address
Tel.
Charge my credit card

CARD TYPE:
Card No.
_________-_________-_________-_________-

(Please include the final three numbers found on the back of your card, near the signature bar)
Tel No.____________________________
Expiry date_____(month) ______(year)
Subscription date________________________
Total (including postage)
________________________________________________
Cardholders signature
_______________________________________________

I wish to purchase the book publications as checked overleaf.
Book Series (including postage)

Title Edition Price Quantity Ordered
Paperback US$11
Chinese Sayings Told in Pictures

Paperback US$11
Taiwans Extraordinary Plants and Animals
Paperback US$11
When West Meets East: International Sinology and Sinologists
Paperback US$11
Stories of Chinese Herbal Medicine
Paperback US$10
A New Age for Wildlife Conservation in Taiwan
Paperback US$13
Embrace Taiwan 100 Images of Contemporary Taiwan
2
Paperback US$13
Taiwan Revealed 100 Images of Contemporary Taiwan (2)
Paperback US$13
Hold that Note!Stories from Taiwans Stage
Paperback US$13
Call of the WildTaiwans Natural World
Paperback US$16
Shindigs and Solemnity in Taiwan
Paperback US$16
Days of Being Wild: Youth Culture in Taiwan
Paperback US$12
A Taste of Taiwan

Total
Prices include postage and handling

Kwang Hwa Publishing (USA), Inc.)
Payment enclosed (make checks payable to Kwang Hwa Publishing (USA), Inc.)
Please enclose this form with your remittance in an envelope and mail to Kwang Hwa
Publishing (USA), Inc.
3731 Wilshire Blvd 104, Los Angeles, CA 90010 USA. TEL: 1-888-829-3866 FAX: 1-213-389-0021
Please allow 2 weeks for your book or first issue to arrive.

Taiwan Panorama 2017 Nov

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Taiwan Panorama 2017 Nov

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

10611 42 11

Vol. 42 No. 11 November 2017

Flaming Torches, Leaping Fish

Protecting the Earth, EDITORS NOTE

Preparing for the Future

T he growth of interest in humanitys re-

Creative Inc., in an attempt to trace the or-

Nanfangao, we explore the towns future on an international stage. This performance

10610cover.indd 2 2017/9/26 10:50

The Green Tunnel of Tainans Sicao Wetlands.

2 Taiwan Panorama 2017/08

8 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

Just one-tenth of the area used for aquaculture in the

10 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

Lowering the water level in fish ponds after the fish

In 1990 there were only 300 black-faced spoonbills

M ankinds connection with the sea

sale of products made from pro-

During the black-faced spoonbills reproductive

By using the HappyMilkfish mark, which certifies

14 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

16 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

(facing page) A black-and-white mixed-

18 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

worlds largest bird conservation organization.

20 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

22 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

24 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

26 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

Dr. Yen Shih-ching holds up an antenna to get a fix

28 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

30 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

32 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

Gangkou tea, buffeted year-round by sea breezes

Most tourist visitors to the Hengchun Peninsula have

C oming to the Hengchun Peninsula at the

Large numbers of gray-faced buzzards pass through Taiwan in

34 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

36 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

But what community residents most treasure about

Chen Jinhui is not this artwork, but his role as a catalyst in

founding a community band. Lide is an indigenous com

munity and the residents have a knack for singing and

ments of old Amis melodies handed down in the region.

Today, if you visit Lide, you can have the opportunity

38 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

40 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

42 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

44 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

At last, a false viper (Macropisthodon rudis) that is willing

are hoofprints from some Reeves muntjac that passed

46 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

48 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

Thank you for accompanying us on Taiwan Panoramas 40-year

To subscribe, please use the form in the back of the magazine.

54 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

56 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

58 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

60 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

62 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

64 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

66 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11

9 Mens nine-ball singles gold medal winner Hsu Jui-an.

68 Taiwan Panorama 2017/11