Culinary Olympics Champion

Does the win warrant more for

the chefs from the nation?
CUISINE & WINE ASIA | 2017 VOLUME 21 NO.1 JANUARY - FEBRUARY 2017 | ISSN 0219-0265 | MIC (P) 050/11/2016 | KDN:PQ/PP1560 (1824)
Congratulations
to our beloved

Singapore
National Culinary Team
 Champions Of IKA
Culinary Olympics 2016
Supporting Singapore Chefs’ Talent
v
U.S. Cheese Industry: Serving Award Winning
Cheeses To Culinary Olympic Champions
USDEC Supports A Vision: Singapore Becomes The Culinary Olympic Champion
In 2016, the National Culinary Team of Singapore
secured their first overall championship at
the IKA Culinary Olympics – a title they finally
clinched after 32 years. Amongst the support
they’ve received from their sponsors, the U.S.
Dairy Export Council (USDEC) also aided the
national heroes by fortifying their efforts to
train for the prestigious competition through
fundraising efforts. Their support extended from
the competition up to the celebratory Singapore
Chefs Association (SCA) Dinner & Dance that
was held in honour of the victors. They provided
a variety of their astounding award-winning
cheeses which awed the guests that night. Team
Manager Louis Tay was thoroughly impressed by
the selection of cheeses available noting that,
“These cheeses are one-of-a-kind. We must use
them in future competitions as I’m sure it will
make an impact on the quality of the dishes.”
Peter Knipp, the honorary ambassador of SCA
and a huge fan of U.S. cheeses agrees, “We’re
very proud of the team, and understanding
firsthand the difficulties faced by the association
when trying to seek support, anyone who helps
does so tremendously. USDEC’s contribution
to the culinary dreams of Singapore is whole
heartedly appreciated.”
“The cheeses that were enjoyed that night by
the lucky 750 guests were of impeccable quality.
Also, these world-class cheeses produced by the
American cheesemakers have impressed even
the most captious of critics, many of whom came
to me to ask where they are able to procure
these products,” said Peter Knipp.
 Champions Of IKA
Culinary Olympics 2016
Supporting Singapore Chefs’ Talent

Congratulations
on your success at the
IKA Culinary Olympics 2016!

FOOD SERVICE EQUIPMENT DESIGN MANUFACTURING SUPPLIES

Somerville (Singapore) Pte Ltd 17 Kian Teck Way Singapore 628739
Tel: (65) 6262 4222 | (65) 6262 4111
Email: sales@somerville.com.sg | Website: www.somervillecompanies.com
 ...it’s about taste!
Certainly as Singapore Chefs Association As for training venues, we are open if any
(SCA)’s objective is to nurture the next of the institutes would like to collaborate
generation of chefs we are prepare to work with SCA for masterclasses, we would be
with government bodies, ie NTUC or WSG more than happy to collaborate. I believe
or e2i to endorse any of the professional that we should inject competition elements
certification programmes. subjects into the schools - as they are
willing to learn skills and technique in order
to improve on the food and beverage
quality standards in Singapore.

Edmund Toh
President, Singapore Chef Association

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 ...it’s about taste!
We should never pressure the competition team to
achieve any medals. When we have the Singapore flag
sewn unto our jackets, we represent Singapore Chefs
Association/ Singapore Pastry Alliance and the nation.
We definitely need to do the best. But when it comes to
winning or losing its doesn’t matter; all that does is our
life memories and the learning experiences we gain.

Kenny Kong
President, Singapore Pastry Alliance
red

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007
 ...it’s about taste!
Support should come from the Sports stars are paid to train – chef pay
government. In Europe the chefs are to train and that is a big difference. Also a
on the national news when they win a sports star may dedicate all their time to
major culinary event. The European chefs training as it is their job, chefs compete
are sent all over the world to promote for the love of it and for the respect of our
tourism and the food of the country. Our industry. We do not get paid to represent
government sources should tap into the our country or promote our country, so
chefs bodies and give back to the chefs this comes from the heart ! This is the main
who are doing it for Singapore. point that governments should take into
consideration when allocating budgets.

Rick Stephen
WACS Continental Director - Asia

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IKA Culinary Olym

009
 Publisher/Editor-in-Chief
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Raised
in
France Bernard Dupouy-Lahitte
Farmer in Boueilh-Boueilho-Lasque (64)

All our ducks are free range-raised

Exalted
in family farming of western France.
They produce an exceptional raw foie gras,
the symbol of Rougié’s excellence.

byyou

Photos: Astoria Studio

Contacts Rougié :
paulin.rio@rougie.com
Get our latest news on Facebook www.rougie.com
 Chef & Cuisine
05 It’s About Taste... 35 Cover + Story
• Chaud Froid Boston Lobster With Culinary Olympics Champion
Saffron Cream, Cilantro, Pink Peppercorn, Does The Win Warrant More For

PAGE + NO.
Pea Flan & Chia Seed The Chefs From The Nation?
• Compressed Mussel With 55 Chef + Cuisine
Smoked Scallop, Sea Kelp, Razor Clam, Happy Indochinese New Year
Sunchoke Custard, Porcini & Young Leek 63 Chef + Restaurant
Seaweed Salad With Shaven Fennel, Adventures In Korean Food &
Salicornia & Lettuce Alcohol Pairings
• Citrus Cured Ocean Trout, Milk Poached 69 Chef + Visit
Tooth Fish With Green Radish & Dill, Raymond Blanc
Pickled Roscoff Onion With Parsley Root The Epitome Of Knowledge
& Blonde Mustard & Onion Ring Woven With Infectious Passion
07 • Red Fruits: Ruby Peach Cremeux, 72 One Of Europe’s Finest
Raspberry Wafer, Lime Strawberry 77 Food DIY
Sherbet & Pistachio Feuilletine
09 • Baby Carrot, Grape Fruit Terrine,
Shaved Carrot Slaw, Grape Fruit Yoghurt sweet allure
Sorbet & Grand Marnier Flavoured 91 Sweet + Hunt
Orange Reduction Valentine’s Day Of The Orient
97 Sweet + Patissier
The Asian Pastry Forum
When Great Talents
Come Together
104 Sweet + Bake
Kueh Lapis Tradition & Innovation

P.35

Chefs Yen Koh, Louis Tay, Anderson Ho and Eric Teo smiling on the
steps of Erfurt cathedral and Saint Severus church en route to the
IKA Culinary Olympics competition halls.
013
 Cicone Ng, Francis Wong, Alex Chong, Edwin Leow & Jolene Yip waiting for the overall pastry art result.
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reGulars Go + event
17 Publisher + Perspective 109 A Latino Affair
A Gold Medal That’s Ours 113 A Travelling Argentine Feast
21 January To February 2017

PAGE + NO.
25 Go + Shop
Only The Best Quality With Candia
Dairy Products
Go + travel
119 Go + Italy
27 At The Forefront Of Technology
Romagna Mia
29 A Taste Of Gunma
127 Artisans In Liguria
131 Go + Macau
City Of Masks
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behind the cover:
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on the table
141 Table + Talk
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158 Janice’s Playground For You To Have
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Gold Medal That’s Ours
S ince the first exposure to an international
culinary platform in 1984 - 32 years ago, after
many years and tries, Singapore finally returns
triumphant as the IKA Culinary Olympics overall
champion. So firstly, congratulations to the national
team and all the mentors, it was a job well done. The
teams have always been successful, but like a good
product, you need to work on it. You need to train
and nurture the competitors which is something
I feel that the Singapore Chefs Association (SCA)
does so well. From the very first president – Fritz
Wuthrich, to Ernst Huber, Otto Weibel, Eric Teo,
and the present president Edmund Toh all deserve
appreciation for their tireless efforts in promoting
these chefs. Every single committee member, be
it past or present all played a role in how far SCA
has come since its inception. It is probably one of
the most respected chefs associations in the world
due to actively caring for and sharing with one
PUBLISHER + PERSPEctIvE
The chefs are
evolving and getting
to the top may
take time,
but it’s not that
difficult when you
know what
you’re doing.
another. It’s globally recognised that Singapore’s
best export are its chefs. It says a lot that we’ve
always garnered more international recognition
than we do locally.
In the recent years the governing bodies like
Singapore Tourism Board (STB) and even
Singapore Airlines (SIA) have come in to support
the national teams. I think a lot more can be
done for the profession of chefs in comparison to
what the country is doing for its sportsmen. What
Singapore has to acknowledge is that we’ve got
amazing talent here – we are the food capital of
Southeast Asia. Only with the continuous support
and exposure of the SCA, the employers of the
industry, and the respective governing parties be
it STB, SPRING, e2i or SkillsFuture Singapore can
we assure that the future will shine bright.
017
 Mentors & Mentees
It takes two to learn – a teacher and a student. One
must be willing to impart knowledge and the other
has to be willing to learn. I think that because SCA
has finally reached a stage where they’ve levelled
out the balance between the mentors and mentees
that we’ve finally clinched the title of Culinary
Olympic Champions. The mentors have selflessly
devoted their time to the next generation. The
mentees in turn have to realise that success is not
an overnight affair. It takes time to build – through
the sleepless nights, arguments and discord, you
persevere. A competition after all is sort of like a
yard stick where one can measure their competency
at an international pace. Competitions aren’t and
shouldn’t be regarded as a reflection of a day-
to-day basis of work whether at a hotel, catering
company or a restaurant. It’s about pushing one’s
boundaries. You need to know how good you are by
pushing yourself. It’s not so much about winning,
but more about what you learn along the way. You
train to compete, and you look back and see an
intense exchange of knowledge taking place. That’s
the crucial aspect that shouldn’t be overlooked.
I’ve increased the communications through Cuisine
& Wine Asia, the chefs have had more access to
knowledge and learning shouldn’t stop.
Turn the pages to read about these outstanding chefs
and their mentors. They will give you an insight into how
they managed to achieve greatness and
if they’re rewarded for it.
Scan the page & connect with me via iQNECT.
Peter A Knipp
But staying on top is going
to be a challenge.
Our progeny has to work
hard to continuously fly our
national flag, Singapura
high and mighty.
Questions & More Questions
Government support has been the point of
contention and heated debates for many, many
years. We often say that the government is not
doing enough to recognise these talented chefs.
Having said that, what are the chefs themselves
PUBLISHER + PERSPEctIvE
doing? I’d like to quote America’s 35th president
John F Kennedy here, “Ask not what your country
can do for you, ask what you can do for your
country.” The chefs have achieved a lot, that’s for
sure, but I believe that there are a lot of questions
to be asked. What is the SCA’s role in the official
certification of the chef profession? Are they
officially involved in the skills development for
chefs? Is there a national dress code for chefs
like the athletes have? Who’s running the office?
Are there appropriate personnel like a general
manager, secretary or a sponsorship manager to
make things happen? Can SCA be the national
body that encompasses all the chefs in Singapore
regardless of race and nationality? How active
is the junior wing of SCA and how many people
know about them? I feel that they should have
the ability to invite government officials to attend
events and to appropriately present themselves
in a formal way if they want formal recognition.
I believe that the government will be willing to
support such an initiative but as long as the chefs
are willing themselves. We are in need of answers
and someone has to give them.
019
 Gastronomic Adventures To Begin The Year With
Napa Truffle Festival
Napa Valley, California 13 – 16 January 2017
www.napatrufflefestival.com

u l inary Calenda The sixth annual Napa Truffle Festival is back! The
best truffle connoisseurs who are acknowledged
C r for their expertise on truffle cultivation and chefs
who are know how to highlight the prized fungi
in their cuisine. Michelin-starred chef Ken Frank
of La Toque will be having culinary masterclasses
– showcasing home grown vendors and their
specially curated products, plus fresh truffles for
sale. Truffle fans ought not to miss this!

La Garoinada, The Sea Urchin Festival

Palafrugell, Spain l 15 January – 20 March 2017
www.visitpalafrugell.cat/en/culture/
events/garoinada
The 25th edition of La Gorainada, The Sea Urchin
Jan ry Festival returns as the seas are calm and the sea
uary & Februa urchins are in decadent abundance. Including
adventures on boats, wine tastings, and above all,
a sea urchin menu!

The art of
great cooking

MKN Asia Pacific

Paul Micallef
Mobile: +65 8299 0864
E-Mail: mic@mkn-asia.com MKN – The german specialist in professional cooking appliances

www.mkn.eu
Sirha
Lyon, France
21 – 25 January 2017
www.sirha.com
Food products, equipment and services for the entire
food and beverage sector, Sirha is the focal point of
extensive networking and solutions for the industry.
More than 3,000 exhibitors from appliances, to
services, technology and agro food will be there to
sate your hunger for all things food related!

Saint Moritz Gourmet Festival

Saint Moritz, Switzerland
30 January - 3 February 2017
www.stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch
Learn about the unexpected facets of the familiar
cuisine hailing from North America. Intending to
delight their tasters, these master chefs from the
United States will have gourmet masterclasses at
the Kulm Hotel Saint Moritz. Everyone should also
keep at lookout for the Great BMW Gourmet Finale.
It’s going to be an array of spectacular events!

PRODEXPO
Moscow, Russia
6 – 10 February 2017
www.prod-expo.ru/en
The Russian food exhibition has been stimulating
the food industry in the country for the past
20 years. Including federal projects targeted at
improving the lifes of the Russian food scene. With
over 2,000 participants from 67 countries, one is
sure to find innovative food products manufactured
by international market leaders.

Food Table Japan

Tokyo, Japan
15 – 17 February 2017
www.foodtable.jp/en/index.html
Displaying a huge array of household products and
organised by four of the biggest food associations
in Japan, Food Table Japan is the leading
international tradeshow in the region. By bringing
in various exhibitors and business partners, the
event hopes to create new opportunities for
innovation to take place.
Anfaş Food Product
Antalya, Turkey
15 – 18 February 2017
www.anfas.com.tr
The biggest international food and beverage
exhibition in Turkey returns for its 24th edition
of Anfas Food Product 2017. More than 178
international companies made their way down
there last year, and this year it’s going to be bigger!
The most productive of international food summits
bring together relevant sectors from all over the
industry in Turkey.

Vegetarian Food Asia

Wan Chai, Hong Kong
23 – 25 February 2017
www.vegfoodasia.com
The third edition of one of the biggest edition
vegetarian food fairs will be held for three days
in the exhibition centre. The recent years have
seen a surge in animal rights and a healthier
lifestyle. Showcasing various products from dairy,
beverages, snacks, breads and spices amongst
others, it’s a festival not be missed by anyone
who wants to know more about veganism and
respective products to be aware of. It’s a booming
vegetarian market!

Dubai Food Festival

Dubai, United Arab Emirates
23 February – 11 March 2017
www.visitdubai.com/en/events/dubai-food-
festival-2017
The annual Dubai Food Festival is organised by
Dubai Festivals & Retail Establishment (DFRE).
The food festival is the citywide event in the
Middle East that celebrates Dubai’s unfolding
as a gastronomic destination. Highlighting the
unique food scene there, it’s a world class dining
experience not to be missed.
面食
Golositalia & Aliment
Italy, Brescia
25 – 28 February 2017
www.golositalia.it/en
With pure dedication to food and wine comes the
sixth edition of Golositalia & Aliment. Training
workshops, tastings of food and wine as well
as seminars conducted by global experts are all
part of the programme with over 640 companies
involved. The fair aims to elevate the culinary
flair of Italian heritages by focusing on products
that best represent the territory and the appeal of
Italian food.
 GO + SHOP
Only
The Best Quality
With Candia
Dairy Products

T he premium French dairy brand, Candia is now

available in Singapore! Candia is a brand under
the Sodiaal cooperative group that is a union of
12,500 dairy farmers. There are about 60 French
cows per farm, ensuring the best quality. Each of
the farmers are given one vote to participate on
council matters. It was recently launched at the
grand ballroom of Intercontinental Singapore with MAKING TEA SPECIAL
its distributing partner, Angliss. Candia is the first
liquid milk brand to make its way to the French
markets in 1971 and has been France’s number one FOUND IN FINE HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS
leading milk brand for 45 years ever since. THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, THE AWARD-WINNING
TEAS AND TISANES OF NEWBY ARE A SURE
There were nine live-stations presented by nine SIGN OF DEDICATION TO EXCELLENCE.
different chefs including those from the Singapore
National Culinary Team, Bocuse d’Or team and the At Newby, we understand how important it is
kitchen team of Intercontinental Hotel Singapore.
that your guests enjoy a superior cup of tea.
Chef Yew Eng Tong of Ocean By Cat Cora, and Chef
Benton Toh of The Ritz-Carlton Millennia Singapore That’s why we offer a complete tea service,
were among the chefs that made beautiful, buttery including bespoke training at your establishment.
dishes using products by Candia. Chef Edmund Toh, Your staff will learn all about Newby teas from
president of the Singapore Chefs Association; Chef our experts, and how to prepare the perfect cup
Eric Neo, vice-president of the Singapore Chefs – because getting it right really counts.
Association and Chef Louis Tay of The Swissötel
Merchant Court as well as other renowned chefs
from the Singapore Chefs Association also came to Discover the difference Newby
show their support for this launch. OT can make to your business.

Email sales@newbyteas.sg
Visit www.angliss.com.sg for more information
on this premium French dairy product. or call us on +65 6327 1108

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M.A.R.V.E.L. , The Self Balancing Kitchen
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At The Forefront
Of Technology
T ungLok Group is Singapore’s leading restaurant
chain that boasts of more than 40 restaurants
in Singapore, China, Japan and Indonesia. Its
restaurants offer the best of Cantonese, northern
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well as progressive modern Chinese cuisine.

TungLok has long since been an advocate of

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reduce our operating costs, increase our profit
margins, and cope with the manpower shortage.
We believe strongly that the engagement of new
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these, in addition to enhancing the productivity of
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You Cook since 1990
Tunglok Teahouse
Square 2, 10 Sinaran Drive, #01-73, Singapore 307506
Tel: (65) 6893 1123 | Fax: (65) 6397 6474
+1 360.650.1111 woodstone-corp.com
 A Taste Of Gunma

GO + SHOP
A lmost everyone has heard of wagyu – the
succulent Japanese beef that is famed for its
beautiful marbling of fats that melts in your mouth.
It is said that the more marbling there is on the
meat, the more expensive it is. But there comes in
the Toriyama, a farm in Gunma prefecture, Japan
that focuses on the science of achieving the right
balance of umami in wagyu beef, rather than
marbling. The best part of it? It is available right
here in Singapore at Huber’s Butchery for your
purchasing! Huber’s Butchery has recently held a
tasting session for Toriyama’s umami wagyu beef.
They invited Chef Kazuki Arai, the executive chef
of WHITE IN TAKASAKI, a banquet restaurant also
in the Gunma prefecture. He is nothing short of
having skills like a Japanese masterchef and leads
us through a mouth-watering presentation of how
he prepares Toriyama’s umami wagyu.

Four dishes are prepared – the first being the *beef

saikyo isobeyaki. Beef is marinated in a miso paste,
then sous vide and finished off on a grill pan. Next is
the beef leg kiyomizu shitate that is cooked in black
vinegar. It is then placed into a flavourful, clear soup
with refreshing vegetables like daikon, carrot, yuzu and
edible chrysanthemum. The beef clod sobamushi is
next on the menu. Its meat is steamed together with
a buckwheat flour mixture, taro, gingko and awa-fu.
Finally, a dish that many know of and love – sukiyaki.
It is put together in a traditional hot pot, along with
warashita sauce and optional umeboshi pickled plums.
A sorbet of tomatoes and onions is also added for a
sukiyaki refreshing contrast to the rich beef.

My favourite cut of beef is the inner
thigh. It is inexpensive and packed with
flavour. You can never go wrong with
wagyu beef – it is always delicious
Kazuki Arai
Chef Kazuki Arai preparing the beef sukiyaki.
Chef Arai goes on to share with us that his favourite
cut of beef is the inner thigh as it is inexpensive and
like almost all other wagyu, it only requires a simple
seasoning of salt and pepper. Chef Arai is all smiles, and
with the help of his interpreter, lets us in on his love
for food and tells us of his time when he once had the
privilege of cooking for Yasuo Fukuda, the former prime
minister of Japan. He initially had thought of becoming
a French-cuisine chef, as to follow the footsteps of his
father, a classically French-trained chef. However, he
eventually decided that he would stick to his Japanese
roots instead. Seeing that it was Chef Arai’s first visit to
Singapore, we decided to ask what his favourite dish is
here – “Chicken rice!” OT
*Recipes refer to page 83

Huber’s Butchery @ Dempsey

22 Dempsey Road, Singapore 249679 | Tel: (65) 6737 1588 | Fax: (65) 6475 3733
E-mail: info@hubersbutchery.com.sg 029
 Scented Memory

campfire negroni rain

caramel

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

T he smell of the burning wood of a campfire
could instantly take you back to that time you
went on a camping trip with your best friend, or
the smell of rain could trigger that memory of
you as a child playing in the wet fields. For Joe
Schofield, head bartender of Tippling Club, it is the
scent of pears – that takes him back to nearly 20
years, when he drank pear cordial with his family at
his grandmother’s house.
That is exactly what he has successfully achieved
in Tippling Club’s newest cocktail programme. The
latest Sensorium menu places the emphasis of
scents over the ingredients of the cocktail. Together
with its chef-owner, Ryan Clift and in conjunction
with International Flavours & Fragrances Inc (IFF),
they came up with a series of fragrances that later
translated into cocktails. It took them about six
months with IFF, to narrow down the fragrances
and flavours they wanted in these cocktails.
“The initial idea was ‘scratch and sniff’, but after
WhO’S + WhO
discussing with IFF, we went with the direction
of having blotters laced with the aromas of the
cocktails,” Chef Clift shares. These blotters are
given to their guests, and this acts as the menu
– “We wanted this to be something people could
talk about and share with one another. We wanted
them to have a sniff of the menu, pass it around the
table and basically have fun with it talking about
the memories that each scent evokes,” Schofield
adds on.
There is a Japanese term called
“kaizen” which means continuous
improvement and that is ultimately
what we try to achieve here at
Tippling Club on a daily basis.
Joe Schofield
Schofield started working part-time in his local
pubs nearby his parents’ house and then moved on
to cocktail bars. He eventually fell in love with the
industry so much that he dropped out of university
where he was studying for a contemporary
arts degree. Fast forward and he is now here in
Singapore where he joined Tippling Club in early
2016. Schofield had a vision to change up the bar,
and when he suggested creating a cocktail menu
focused on scents, Chef Clift loved the idea and
got them connected with IFF, with whom he had
already been in contact with for several years.
The pair then narrowed down some conceptual
smells, along with recognisable ones that almost
everyone would have come into contact at some
point of their lives. “All our cocktails are priced the
same – we don’t want anyone to be swayed by
price, preference or anything else other than your
personal memory trigger that would inspire you to
order that drink. It is also the same with food,” says
Chef Clift.
Schofield now works closely with Chef Clift to come
up with cocktails or drink pairings that best pair
with the avant-garde dishes of Tippling Club. The
restaurant has prided itself on taking the obvious
and flipping it around to create interesting and
surprising food and drinks that keeps its customers
always coming back for more. OT
www.tipplingclub.com
38 Tanjong Pagar Road, Singapore 088461
Tel: (65) 6475 2217
031
 Intense Heat &
Intense Passion
M arie Deloffre is preparing to host a
tasting of the latest cognac by The
House Of Martell – Martell Cordon Bleu
Intense Heat Cask Finish. The new limited
edition drink is aged in oak barrels that
have been intensely burnt from the inside,
as compared to the traditional method of
maturing in slightly burnt oak barrels. The
drink has a delicate wood flavour, perfectly
combined with candied fruit and then
accentuated by an intense heat finish.

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

Deloffre is poised and elegant as she walks us
through the tasting, showing everyone how to
fully appreciate cognac. “A little swirl around your
tongue will open up the flavours better,” she says.
A shot later, she sits down for the interview and
shares with us what it truly means for her to be the
brand ambassador of The House Of Martell.
Deloffre had her toes dipped in the industry
when she merely wanted a summer job during
her university days. Originally from the region of
Champagne in France, she had wanted to become
a tour guide for historical buildings but was
given the position of a tour guide at a small wine
vineyard instead. She took the job, and in her first
month was intensely trained by the winemakers
themselves. “I spent my days working with the
people who worked the earth, picked the grapes
and cut the vines – the people who were putting
their hearts into their work.
My first vision of this industry was from right at
WhO’S + WhO
the beginning of the process,” shares Deloffre. This
piqued her interest in the wine industry, eventually
discontinuing her studies for a law degree and
moving on to take up a master degree in wine,
champagne and spirits business in the City Of
Reims. She worked her way up, spent one year
in Vietnam with a wine wholesaler before finally
landing her spot as the regional brand ambassador
for Martell here in Singapore with Pernod Ricard.
Her passion for the wine and beverage industry is
remarkable, and shares that she has nothing but
utmost respect for the people who make wines and
spirits, right down to the grape pickers. “I believe
that in this industry, you have to be humble. We
are all dependent on external factors – if the
year is not good, then your product would not be
good,” she says. She goes on to share that her job
is merely to be the link between the product and
the consumers; and that her challenge now is to
reflect all the passion and knowledge to them. “It
is a huge responsibility being the Martell brand
ambassador, because I am the representative
for all these people who put their hearts into the
product,” Deloffre comments.
It is a huge responsibility
being the Martell brand ambassador,
because I am the representative for
all these people who put
their hearts into the product.
Marie Deloffre
Despite being in Singapore for only over two
months, Deloffre has begun to see what a vibrant
cocktail scene this little red dot has. She remarks
that many cocktail bars are opening up, especially
in speakeasy style. Deloffre finally ends off, “I love
that Singaporeans are making an effort not to drink
more but to drink better. They want to know what
products are in their cocktails. What I also love is
the food in Singapore - you can find almost every
cuisine! I love that all the cultures come together
and that reflects in the food. Even the French food
is good here!” OT
Martell Cordon Bleu Heat Cask Finish is
available for private purchase at SGD$312.
For more enquiries, please contact
sgsales@pernod-ricard.com
033
 Culinary Olympics Champion
Does the win warrant more for
the chefs from the nation?
2016 marks the year that Singapore makes
history – first when Joseph Schooling won the
first Olympic gold medal at Rio and now, when
Singapore became the overall champions at the
prestigious IKA Culinary Olympics. Hailed as one
of the top culinary competitions globally, clinching
this title is no small feat for the Singapore National
Culinary Team and their mentors who have worked
endlessly to make it happen.
herry
forest c
By Darinee Durai
The title eluded the nation for almost 32 years, and
now, they’ve got it. We will share with you their
journey, their treasured mentors and what it takes
to train as a culinary competition team. It started
in Osaka, Japan in year 1983 when German-born
Chef Peter A Knipp, after drawing on his years of
Asian cuisine cooked a local delicacy – the black
chicken and served it up to a panel of purely white
judges. That calculated move flung Singapore unto
the world’s spotlight. 1984 arrived and Chef Knipp
led a team to the IKA Culinary Olympics.
*Photography courtesy of Singapore Chefs Association & Chef Anderson Ho.
035
 Competitions: A Test On Those Who Want It Badly
W hen you put yourself out there, on a global
stage – the world is watching your every
move. The disconcerting fact is you can’t even
place a number on the eyes that seem to be, in that
intense moment scrutinising you and looking for
faults. Entering a competition means that you want
to be tested against an extremely high benchmark
to prove your worth and skills to an audience
that will judge you. All your countless nights and
discords with loved ones will not even be accounted
for when the judges score you. Your burns, cuts and
sores aren’t going to be felt by anyone but you. The
only moment that matters is the day itself when
you’re expected to perform to perfection. All the
minutes and hours that you’ll never get back during
the training is downsized into an impossibly short
amount of time.
The six pillars that brought glory to Singapore
(From left to right): Alan Wong, Teo Yeow Siang, Tristan Fang, Louis Tay, Alex Chong & Roy Lim
It’s arguable that even if you do win, you might
not be the best cause the so-called better ones
are not your competitors, but with that being said,
you are the best among those who want to push
their boundaries. In some weird circular logic, that
in turn makes you the best of everyone because
only the passionate ones aim high. In the food
and beverage (F&B) industry, competitions are a
whole different ball game. As opposed to sports
for example, which are easily scored by the time,
targets hit, moves made and whatnot, a test of
cooking revolves around the one of the most
subjective matters within our perception – taste.
There are numerous factors involved and we are
going to tackle them.
037
凯
旋
归
来
The chefs making sure that each plate is perfectly executed at a past competition.
The Selection Process: Of Members & Mentors
Becoming a member isn’t accomplished by a year’s
worth of hard work and obvious talent. Oh no.
There’s a long filtration process that ensures that
if you’re interested in representing the nation,
the Singapore Chefs Association (SCA) has to
know if you’ve got what it takes. You might be
wondering what it takes and Chef Randy Chow, the
competition head of SCA goes through the rigorous
process with us. “It all starts from the regional
competitions hosted by any local suppliers. Our
watchful committee members will attend these
events, each of whom have sharp, keen eyes will
watch the competitions and the competitors.
Basically, when we see potential chefs, we will
approach them and ask them if they’re keen to
join SCA and that we will groom them for future
competitions. If they show good potential and
good character during the interview, we will bring
them in. We have to look at succession planning. If
anyone has the right talent with the right attitude
– our doors are always open. Some people don’t
have that intrinsically, but when they push hard,
they become better than those who do because
they’re so passionate.”
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These potential chefs are then called upon
whenever an event is held so that they can start
receiving training from there. As an assistant,
they get to learn how to cook and how to deal
with the logistics. It is a natural process where the
chefs are assistants to the core members many
times before the committee feels that they have
reached a level where they are competent and
confident to become full-fledged members. “We
have many years of experiences and having gone
through competitions ourselves, so we can see
when someone is ready to take on the role – we
can judge by the quality of the dishes.
It’s the intangible feelings and fulfilment.
On the competition day itself, I placed my
work on the display table knowing that
this will be final and every little detail
will be looked into. I told myself this is
the best of my abilities and surely
I should have no regrets.
Chef Cicone Ng
Antoinette
We have created a code of conduct for all members
and assistants which we pass to the selected
members. These are regulations we hope all
members observe so that we think, speak and act
as one team.” The selection process is stringent as
they need to be certain that the person they’re going
to commit time and effort to train is able to absorb
the knowledge that is to be imparted as well as
handle the stress of competition and training. Now
we know how these members are chosen, but how
do the committee members decide who goes for
which competition? “Each competition warrants a
different combination of talents – human dynamics
come into play. Most of the chefs that come in hold
positions in their respective establishments and to
this day we face problems with the forming of a
team for a competition. We make it clear to them
that that the moment they come in, everyone is
equal in SCA, regardless of what ranks they hold
elsewhere. They have to understand that, but even
that doesn’t ensure things will work according to
plan,” Chef Chow says. “For example, we will discuss
who’s better for Team A and who’s better for Team
B. Both will have the chance to represent SCA – it’s
just a matter of time. When the committee hear of
or notice strong diferences among team members,
they try to resolve it. It’s a team event, so we always
tell them that we do things together with respect.”
Keep competing – no pain no gain.
There is no best only better.
Chef Kong Kok Kiang
One Farrer Hotel & Spa
Now you’re probably questioning who these
mentors are and what makes them qualified
to judge anyone else. Chef Chow tackles that
question, “We’re all seasoned competitors. But it is
preferable that these mentors have competed in at
least one of the three biggest team competitions in
the World Association of Chefs’ Societies’ (WACS)
calendar – IKA Culinary Olympics, Culinary World
Cup, and Salon Mondial Igeho. There are no official
criteria honestly, but in order to be a mentor,
we do feel you have to be constantly active. We
are however working on guidelines that define
mentorship. We need to be clear and transparent
on what makes a mentor. For example, is it the
number of training sessions he or she is required
to attend in full? Direct competition experience
is also a crucial requirement for one to qualify as
a mentor.” Chef Chow feels strongly that a good
mentor is attributed to how nurturing one is to the
mentee. “A good mentor will tell you what it is that
you need to improve on. They should come with
solutions and give constructive criticism so that no
time is wasted. They (the mentees) will figure it
out, after we give them ideas. At the end of the day,
we tell them that it’s their names that the emcees
will call out, not ours, so do it well.”
Singapore Chefs Association gave me a
chance to join IKA Culinary Olympics
competition as an assistant.
I know during the journey
I’ll definitely learn something new
and interesting. It is not about
earning recognition from the competition,
it is about learning.
Chef Aaron Wong
Ocean Restaurant By Cat Cora
slow
-co
o ked
h ali
b ut
039
 Core Members II: A Symphony Of Strengths & Making It Happen
凯 The core members of the Singapore National
Culinary Team 2016 have done what others before
旋 them have not achieved since 1984 – they became
the overall champions of the IKA Culinary Olympics.
归 Training by oneself is already challenging, but
training as a team is more challenging logistically
来 and time-wise. Each of the core members have
their own full-time jobs and families to account
for. “For us, when we go for a competition, it’s
not so much about competing against others.
It’s about competing against ourselves. Because
we know what kind of level we’re at, what sort
of boundaries we need to push to get out of our
comfort zone. We want to come up with something
that we don’t normally do,” Chef Teo Yeow Siang,
the team captain says. He’s the driving force behind
the team. Team manager, Chef Louis Tay trusts him
completely, “He understands the team. He knows
their strengths and weaknesses. Whenever the
mentors comment on our dishes, we will discuss it.
If the mentors want to change something, we will
talk about it.
Team captain Chef Teo Yeow Siang and team member Roy Lim
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carefully plating the components of the dish.
At the end of the day, the decision is still up to the
team. If you decided that you want to take part in the
competition, you don’t give up.” Chef Teo elaborates
with enthusiasm, “Chef Ivan Yeo and Chef Chow
have been the main guiding lights for us during the
training and whenever we had problems. We keep
challenging ourselves to keep improving the recipes.
We have to agree on the final dishes unanimously.”
During the training sessions, we can only imagine
how hard it was for the team to receive criticism, but
Chef Teo says, “We are all seasoned competitors, we
know when we put up our food, it’s open to critique.
Nothing is taken personally. We need the criticism to
improve. It’s all professional comments. We all know
how the game is played.” Chef Roy Lim mentions in
regard to his dedication to the process, “Nope, we
never thought of giving up. Before competing we
already have a mindset drilled into our heads. We
are going all the way and we will make it happen. If
in the end, we do not compete and leave the team,
imagine the inconveniences we would have caused
the whole team if we gave up half way.”
In Singapore, we feel that chefs should
receive recognition. These recognition
will not only appreciate the works and
efforts of the chefs but also further
motivate all the chefs to move forward
more spontaneously. Apart from the
Singapore Chefs Association actively
doing the promoting, the Singapore
government should also assist and be
involved in some ways to promote the
chefs and the culinary industry.
Chef Alex Chong
Regent Singapore

caulifl
ower c
ustard with onion chip

The pastry display table of the Singapore National

Culinary Team on the day itself.

Chefs all around the world work very hard and

make sacrifices in order to bring out the best
in themselves. I strongly believe that the media
helps to play a very big role in the promotion
of the works and efforts of each individual chef.
It is crucial to emphasise the life in the kitchen
so that the younger generation are aware and
are prepared of the long working hours and
labourious work that they have to put in in order
to see the fruits of their labour. Chefs should also
have the same priviledge of being rewarded in
monetary terms and career advancements
in their own day jobs.
Chef Alan Wong
Lavish Dine Catering Pte Ltd
A close up of the delicate work done by the pastry chefs.
I started out as an assistant first and joined
a different class of competition before I
got in the team. Advice and guidance from
the mentors and the bonding within the
team encourages me the most. Recognition
is definitely a motivating factor and I
feel that the support of the media is an
important expect that will take
us to the next level.
Chef Tristan Fang,
Ocean Restaurant By Cat Cora
041
 Mentors & Assistants: The Crux Behind The Solid Successes
凯
旋 king crab & octopu
归 s roulade
Unlike European countries, culinary
competitions are less popularised by
local media. Some local media do not
even know that Singaporean chefs are
competing in global competitions.
Chef Chan Tuck Wei
Marina Mandarin
Mentors, by default as everyone understands are
experts that guide you in a crucial period of time
and sometimes even in life. Unsure of which steps
to take next – that’s okay, your mentor is here to
offer an opinion. Feeling emotionally down – your
mentor is there to comfort and encourage you.
No one can say that they would’ve been better
off without a mentor, and that’s for good reason
too. Take a look around at the most famous people
we know of in the industry today – Chef Heston
Blumenthal was mentored by Chef Raymond Blanc,
Chef Ferran Adrià taught Chef René Redzepi, Chef
Joël Robuchon passed on his wisdom to Chef Eric
Ripert and many other chefs. These are just a
fraction of the examples of real life stories. Now,
SCA has grown much since it was first established in
1984. They’ve amassed many titles at international
culinary platforms over the years, passed major
milestones and their successes goes without saying
to the support behind them. Most of these chefs
are veteran competitors – having made their own
mistakes and winning awards along the way.
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This process has been with me since I
went through it in my Bocuse d’Or days,
I got to know and understand what
made a champion! Training and more
trainings, it pushes oneself to his limit
till movements and mind become one!
Chef Yew Eng Tong
Ocean Restaurant By Cat Cora
Their battle is over so to speak. The assistants may
not actively be there all the time, but they do help
to enrich a dish or give suggestions where possible.
So why commit more of their time which could be
used for a multitude of things to train a team? Chef
Eric Teo says, “I was once a young competitor and
needed help. Without a mentor then, I wouldn’t
be where I am now and have achieved so much.
It’s time for me to give back to the community
and guide less experienced chefs by building trust
and injecting positive behaviour into them. A true
mentor does not need recognition but satisfaction.”
These mentors themselves have faced tough times
during their journey and the support they got was
crucial. “Family and work support will be the most
critical for me. After a long day of work and training
you go home and you know everything is well taken
care of, it’s really a blessing to have an understanding
and supportive wife/partner. As for work support,
that would mean a supportive company/boss and
kitchen team. Sometimes you will need to juggle
between daily operations, meetings and trainings
all in one day,” Chef Eric Chua shares.
What about training methods? Is there a secret
recipe to success? Chef Khoo Wee Bin, known for
being one of the toughest and harshest mentors
around tells us his take, “Take for example the bi-
annual Food&Hotel Asia (FHA) competition. For
each category, we’re talking about at least 100
participants and you don’t just see local people.
There’s a mix of international and local competitors
and judges. We’re up against high expectations
and sometimes even political factors that in my
opinion might hinder us from winning. I tell myself
that regardless of all of these, competitions are
a platform for me to educate. I am harsh, but
there’s a reason for it. I stimulated the students
I trained – I placed them under a certain amount
of stress intentionally. My aim is to emulate the
competition environment for them. I need them
to think of all the worst case scenarios and go
through them where possible so that they come
up with solutions.” Should the mentors change
their ways? Having the Singapore National Culinary
Team clinched the title of IKA Culinary Olympics
Champion, Chef Anderson Ho feels, “The SCA
mentors must be doing something right that
resulted in recent spate of successful results in
most of the international culinary competitions
and I think we should continue what we are doing.
One of the final tastings in Erfurt, Germany by the mentors before the competition day.
Having said that, we have plenty of room to improve
since all mentors should also be kept abreast with
what are the culinary trends and new techniques
that we ‘old dogs’ could still learn - new skills and
techniques that we may not be so familiar with.
This will be challenging since it involves funding
which SCA already is struggling with to continue
sending our teams for overseas’ competitions.
Another thing I would like to see is that the current
training/coaching methods and procedures should
be properly documented as a reference and legacy
for future mentors – unfortunately this is yet to be
in place since most chefs lack this skill set. Chefs
will be chefs!”
I feel that we must recognise all the mentor
chefs for their endless contribution to the
Singapore National Culinary Team.
Without their involvement from the beginning
none of these would have happened.
No one should forget they were once the ex-
world champions who represented Singapore
during their time. For that matter,
they deserve more recognition.
Credit should be given to the mentor chefs.
Chef Kan Lip Ken
SATS Institutional Catering
043
 Chef Ivan Yeo agrees, “One should have great We did everything ourselves – from training

凯 experience in the culinary industry to keep abreast

on what is available in the market and also to
to the packing of equipment and looking of
sponsors right down to communicating with

旋 understand the nature and specific natural flavour

of each individual ingredient and how to combine
outsiders where necessary as most of these chefs
weren’t fluent in English.” Funding is one of the
them to create a winning dish. I am always flexible, most crucial factors that ensure the team is well
归 able to adapt, and accept new techniques but
most importantly I would like listen to the team
prepared for any competition. Singapore Chefs
Association is supported by generous sponsors
来 first and understand how they had arrived at their
creations. From there, I am able to improve the
who see the value in the national team. But
besides being a non-profit organisation, SCA
dish if necessary.” Chef Jasmine Ng, the ‘golden girl’ holds its own fundraisers and such to be able to
who achieved an immaculate score of 40/40 during financially support their training. Chef Leons Tan
“The Taste Of Canada” competition in the year 1989 acknowledges the difficulty that the SCA faces,
mentions the difficulties faced when trying to train “Getting funding is one of the many challenges you
a team, “Handling chefs can be more difficult than have to embark on even before you are physically
students or apprentice cooks. Getting everyone in the competition arena. We have to think of all
to change their habits when performing certain sorts of creative ways to solicit funding and we are
tasks was pretty tough as these chefs were set in blessed that there are quite a few very supportive
their own ways of doing things. We had no training organisations out there. But there are some mega
facility and full-time jobs to deal with, so setting a companies that would demand outright returns
time to train and meet was a constant hassle. first and they will list down their conditions before
they commit to anything.
What we have practised during
competition can also be used in an actual
kitchen operation. Organising, planning,
different cooking techniques can all be
used to improve better food quality for
our guests. From this competition,
I got to know of a lot of well-known
chefs from Singapore. It expanded my
career connections and it will help me
in future when I am ready for
my next role.
Chef Boey Min Hwa The intricate sugar work by the pastry team for the competition.
Crowne Plaza Changi Airport

We congratulate the Singapore National Culinary Team on this historic win at the
IKA Culinary Olympics. This win affirms the culinary prowess of Singapore chefs, as
the competition is a test of their technical know-how and creativity in presentation, as
well as taste. Singapore Toursim Board (STB) supported Singapore’s Culinary team in
the IKA Culinary Olympics with a grant from the association development fund, which
helped to defray expenses such as flight, accommodation and ingredient costs.
Since 2014, STB has supported the Singapore Chefs Association
to participate in overseas culinary competitions
as it is important for our chefs to gain exposure and learn
from their peers at such international platforms.
We will continue to support such capability development efforts.
Ranita Sundra
Director Of Attractions, Dining & Retail
Singapore Tourism Board
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 This list normally puts extra strain on the
competing team members, and they will have
to put extra time to fulfil these demands. Well,
I guess it is their way of ‘supporting’ the cause,
but then there are organisations that just believe
strongly in what you are doing and willingly fund
the cause without a single request.”
Chef Yong Ming Choong, one of the most talented
pastry chefs that Singapore has sent to compete
echoes Chef Tan’s opinions, “I think practical
support would be the best recognition. Funding is
one way. The teams that are heading out will need
quality equipment and ingredients to work with. By
easing their minds off funding, they can then focus
on winning. In my opinion, this will be a good form
of recognition.” Chef Tony Khoo speaks up about
this as well, “Many a times, we have to galvanise
fundraising effort, there were entities whom want
outright returns for the funds that they contribute,
very business-like, even though we are doing it in
part for national pride. Only when we fulfil their
expectations like key performance indicators (KPI)
that they will fund us.” Chef Eric Ong talks to us
about the support he has received, “It is definitely
the support and encouragement given by my lovely
wife and kids, and the Grand Park City Hall team.
a rt
w chemistry that we have shared and the bonds
llo
ye
We are all in this together and I realised that it is not
just about me. There are people who are concerned
about me and wish upon my success. Therefore
this motivates me further and I do not want to
disappoint myself, let alone disappoint them.
Chef Justin Quek shares with us what role he has
to play in Singapore’s culinary competition scene,
“While I do not personally coach young chefs for
competitions, as the vice-president for Bocuse
d’Or Singapore, I also help to motivate and guide
the competing chefs. Our time and effort as
committee members are also focused on getting
more resources for our competing chefs. You
might ask how that is important. Let’s take Norway
for example: a competition chef can dedicate his
entire year to perfecting the competition dishes
through working with ex-competition winners and
other top chefs. This is made possible because
they have sponsors that allow the chefs to go on
paid leave for a year so that he doesn’t have to
stress about juggling work and training. Helping to
build a holistic support system for the competition
chefs is as important as coaching them, and that is
why I put in my time.
The reason why I would commit my time
and effort is partly because of the team. The
that we have forged throughout the whole
training process, as each of the training
goes by, we learnt not just about food itself
but about communicating and through our
understanding, aligning each and every
individual’s thinking to make things happen.
So it is a responsibility to push my boundaries
and absorb as much as I can and apply it.
Chef Samuel Quan
Amara Singapore Hotel
045
凯
旋
归
来
The last day: Team manager Louis Tay and his team
closing their eyes in hope while the emcees
announce the final result.
I like to look at the big picture - and look beyond just
guiding competition chefs, because while winning
at competitions helps to build our country’s
reputation, we also need to work on building
up the calibre of Singapore’s chefs. That is the
foundation for a nation of good chefs. For a couple
of years I have been a mentor at SHATEC, helping
the students find their paths. The options for
young cooks are so plenty and sometimes they can
get lost; it doesn’t help that a lot of establishments
don’t provide a very strong training system to help
them excel. In some places, it is the trainees who
train the new chefs! So I come in to share my
experience, and in some cases, offer them the
opportunity to hone different kitchen skills so that
they can discover their talent and potential.”
With the strong support from certain parties like
e2i, Singapore Tourism Board, Singapore Airlines
the journey of these six chefs were achievable. The
budget of SGD$270,000 covered almost everything
– from the ingredients, equipment, venues, and
certain logistics. It is even with difficulty that their
employers managed to cope without them.
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The first day: the Singapore National Culinary Team
making their way into the competition hall
during the introductions.
Chef Teo points out, “They have their own business
to run. The economy is hard on everybody. Our
employers are already allowing us to compete
which means that someone else has to take
over our duties. We can’t ask them for anything
more. That’s why we rely on funds. Finding
these sponsorships were tasked to Chef Tay and
our president, Chef Edmund Toh. For example,
Indoguna (Singapore) Pte Ltd and Angliss Singapore
helped to cover the cost of the ingredients
because of the good relations between us. Even
after everything, the leftover money is to be used
to fund future trainings for future competitions.”
This is purely out of passion and love for the
profession. It is also about promoting Singaporean
and Asian culinary talents through international
food competitions - they are great platforms for
young chefs to show off their skills, knowledge
and measure against the rest of the world.
The satisfaction comes through participation and
hopefully we would achieve good results.
Otto Weibel
President Mentor
Singapore Chefs Association
 Back To Singapore: Does The Win Warrant More For The Chefs?
“When I came back in 1988, the team and I
reached the airport, and there was nobody there
to welcome us. We won, but nobody knew. This
time though, it was totally different. The news
channels, the culinary schools, the suppliers and
even the parliamentary secretary – Low Yen Ling
was there to welcome us back. It is a huge leap
from then and now. Sure, there’s no one million
dollars which would no doubt help, but we would
appreciate it if the government could support and
recognise us further. Singapore is supposed to be
a food paradise and we would like to promote the
chef profession,” says Chef Tay.
The recognition of the chefs are important. In
Europe, the chefs are treated like ‘gods’, almost.
They get broadcasted nationwide for whatever
success they achieve. Whereas in Singapore,
chefs are often overlooked. This is one of SCA’s
purposes in competing – wanting people to
realise that they’re more than just chefs. They’re
master craftsmen who are every bit as dedicated
to their passion on top of a full-time job as
everyone else out there. The chefs share with us
that they’re trying to work on some plans with
the government. But even these plans are not
concrete long-term plans.
Streams of golden confetti falling around after the winners of the IKA Culinary Olympics 2016
– the Singapore National Culinary Team!
Singapore Chefs Association has to work harder
to make sure the chef profession gets credit and
are able to work with a governing body to stabilise
a route. As of now, there’s no particular party
that chefs can come under. These are then the
questions that need to be answered: Which party
takes care of the F&B profession? Shouldn’t there
be a substantial reward given the anyone who
represents the nation at a global stage against other
countries regardless of profession? It is in the end
glory for the nation as a whole. The public would
identify a person first, by his nationality before his
profession or even who he is.
So when the Singapore National Culinary Team won
the IKA Culinary Olympics, they are identified, first
and foremost as Singaporeans. The SCA is after all,
a non-profit organisation and the chefs each have
their own full-time jobs to commit to. There were
no open-top bus paraded around the island for
the champions, or like Chef Tay affirms – a million
dollars or even an invitation to parliament. These
people have obviously worked hard. Are their efforts
being acknowledged? Are there rewards? Besides
personal satisfaction and the growth of these chefs,
there’s hardly much. Surely that there is more that
can be done for our national heroes? DD
047
凯 十年寒窗无人知，一举成名天下闻
旋 新 加坡是个弹丸小国，所拥有的人力和
物力都非常有限，没有壮丽的山河，
家公司的黄国强，来自联合利华饮食策划的
林纬明，圣淘沙名胜世界的方瑞珑和丽晶酒

归 没有丰富的天然资源，生长在着国家，你唯
有比别人更努力，更执着，你才能说开始“
店的张志雄。

迈向”成功之道。在这个工利的社会，许 也许他们当中有几个都和小编是好朋友，所
来 多父母的教育方针都希望孩子“出人头地” 以在得知他们获奖时，我也莫名的为他们开
，但试问每个人都是医生，都是律师，其他 心。在他们得奖回国后，身为一个新加坡媒
的工作由谁负责？即使我们不谈要当医生律 体人，我觉得我有这个必要在清晨五点多到
师，身为家长的你又是否愿意让自己的孩子 机场迎接这批国家队，身为他们的朋友，我
走进厨房呢？这是一个现实的问题，因为身 更应该为他们的努力而骄傲。
为父母都希望孩子能待在舒适的环境工作，
或许这和“原身家庭”有及大的关系。 在分秒必争的比赛，无论在精神和体力上都
是考验，除了要把自己所负责的岗位完成，
回到原点，这次代表新加坡，出席在德国埃 还必须帮助其他没有完成的队友，这就是团
尔福特烹饪奥林匹克大赛的新加坡国家队， 队，团队不需要英雄，需要的是一个合一的
成功打败二十九个国家的国家队。这是个在 精神。能荣获这个奖项，是新加坡厨艺界的
餐饮界的奥林匹克，每四年才举办一次，和 骄傲，也是我们新加坡人的骄傲。
我们熟悉的奥林匹克运动会是不分上下的。
这次新加坡国家队是由新加坡厨师协会，精 我好希望有更多媒体来报道这个壮举，因为
挑细选出六位名厨来出征这个赛事。 我觉得他们应该获得更多的喝彩，更多的鼓
励。不一定每一个人都要医治病人，不是每
他们分别来自瑞士茂昌阁酒店的执行总厨郑 个人都应该在公堂上对驳，因为每个人都是
添明来担任这次领队的大任，而来自提供饮 特别的，倘若你觉得你真的热爱厨艺这行，
食及服务Lavish的主厨张耀祥来担任队长， 为何不付出更多，让你的未来与众不同。”
其他四位成员有来自和耀祥队长所属的同一 厨艺代有才人出，各領風騷數百年”。志偉

The Singapore National Culinary Team during their return at Changi Airport. Parliamentary secretary,
ministry of education and ministry of trade and industry Low Yen Ling congratulates the team!

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
Does entering a culinary competition
in Singapore increase your value
to the nation?

76%
Yes , we personally think
No, competitions are an
added advantage, but it
shouldn’t be a chef’s
that its multifaceted main focus
Aaron Wong Khoo Wee Bin Chan Tuck Wei
Alan Wong Kong Kok Keong Cicone Ng
Alex Chong Louis Tay Eric Chua
Anderson Ho Nixon Low Justin Quek
Edmund Toh Otto Weibel Leons Tan
Eric Neo Randy Chow Samuel Quan
Eric Ong Rick Stephen Tony Khoo
Eric Teo Roy Lim
Ivan Yeo
Jasmine Ng
Kan Lip Ken
Kenny Kong
Teo Yeow Siang
Tristan Fang
Yong Ming Choong 24%
049
Some Of Singapore National Culinary Team’s
Competition Records
World Culinary Arts Festival Expo
1987 Vancouver, Canada
Overall Champion
Team Manager - Alan Palmer
Team Captain - Joe Yap
Team Members - Toh Thiam Ser, Hang Peng Juan,
Herman Long, Wee Eng Guan
and William Tan
Best National Team (Hot & Cold Competition)
1994 Erfurt, Germany
1st Runner Up for Olympics Culinary
Team Manager - Peter A Knipp
Team Captain - Jack Aw Yong
Team Members - Martin Aw Yong, Tony Khoo,
Jeremy Phoon and Cassian Tan
Pastry Chef - Kenny Kong
Expogast Culinary World Cup
1998 Luxembourg
Best Cold Display Gold Medal
Best Hot Cooking Restaurant Of
Nations Gold Medal
Overall Culinary World Cup Champion
Team Manager - Rudolf Muller
Team Captain - Tony Khoo
Team Members - Jasmine Ng, Louis Tay, Ivan Yeo
and Eric Ong
Pastry Chef - Otto Jurscha
Culinary Olympiad IKA 2000 Erfurt, Germany
4 Gold Medals (Hot Cooking)
2 Silver Medals (Pastry & Cold Display)
Overall 2nd Place
Team Manager - Rudolf Muller
Team Captain - Eric Teo
Team Members - Anderson Ho, Jason Ong
and Eric Ong
Pastry Chef - Chai Po Loh
Expogast Culinary World Cup
2002 Luxembourg
Cold Display Silver Medal
Hot Cooking Gold Medal
Overall 2nd Runner Up Bronze Award
IKA Culinary Olympic 2004 Erfurt, Germany
Gold, Silver & Bronze Medal (Cold Table)
Silver Medal for Hot Cooking
Overall 7th Place
Team Manager - John Sloane
Team Captain - Eric Teo
Team Members - Eileen Phua, Louis Tay
and Randy Chow
Pastry Chef - Alex Yen
Igeho Salon Culinaire Mondial
2005 Basel, Switzerland
Cold Display Gold Medal
Hot Cooking Restaurant Of Nations Gold Medal
Overall Champion
Team Manager - Jasmine Ng
Team Captain - Edward Voon
Team Members - Tan Lai Hong, Yen Koh
and Ron Ng
Pastry Chef - Nicole Wong
Dubai Salon Culinarie 2005 Dubai
Gourmet Team Gold Medal
Overall Champion
Team Manager - Randy Chow
Team captain - Edward Voon
Team Members - Yen Koh, Kidd Wong
and Samson Lin
IKA Culinary Olympics 2008 Erfurt, Germany
Overall 4th Place
Team Manager - Jasmine Ng
Team Coach - Ivan Yeo
Team Members - Kong Kok Kiang, Jason Low,
Douglas Tay and Yen Koh
Pastry Chef - Nicole Wong
Food&Hotel Asia Culinary Challenge
2010 Singapore Best Hot Cooking Restaurant
Of Nations Gold Medal
Best Cold Display Gold Medal
Best Pastry Gold Medal
Battle For The Lion Champion
Overall Champion
Team Manager - Leons Tan
Team Captain - Yen Koh
Team Members - Yew Eng Tong, Eric Cheam,
Kong Kok Kiang and Lee Boon Seng
Pastry Chef - Nicole Wong
051
 Expogast Culinary World Cup 2010 Luxembourg Expogast Culinary World Cup 2014 Luxembourg

COVER + STORY
Cold Display Gold Medal Cold Display Gold Medal
Hot Cooking Restaurant Of Nations Gold Medal Hot Cooking Restaurant Of Nations
Overall Culinary World Cup Champion Gold Medal
Team Manager - Ivan Yeo Overall Culinary World Cup Champion
Team Captain - Yen Koh Team Manager - Louis Tay
Team Members - Eric Chua, Lim Boon Seng Team Captain - Yew Eng Tong
and Yew Eng Tong Team Members - Triston Fang, Teo Yeow Siang
Pastry Chef - Nicole Wong and Gim
Pastry Chef - Ivy Wong
WACS Culinary Competition 2012
Daejeon, Korea, Gold Medal IKA Culinary Olympics 2016 Erfurt, Germany
Overall Champion Cold Display, Gold Medal
Team Manager - Tony Khoo Cold Display, Overall Best Pastry Gold Medal
Team Captain - Chan Tuck Wai Hot Cooking, Gold Medal
Team Members - Lee Boon Seng, Eric Chua Hot Cooking Overall Silver Medal
and Jim Gim Overall IKA Culinary Olympics Champion
Pastry Chefs - Nicole Wong and Christopher Eng Team Manager - Louis Tay
Team Captain - Teo Yeow Siang
Dubai World Hospitality Championship Team Members - Alan Wong, Triston Fang
2013 Dubai, Best Gourmet Team Gold Medal and Roy Lim
Overall Champion Pastry Chef - Alex Chong
Team Manager - Eric Neo
Team Captain - Nixon Low
Team Members - Lincoln Lim, Edwin Ong
and Sam Chin
Pastry Chefs - Ben Gon and Tiffany Yeo

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 Behind every
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“Cream puff with strawberry,

lemon and ginger“
By Laurent Jeannin,
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Hotel Le Bristol, Paris
Nouveau Monde DDB Nantes P2010068 - RCS B 334 024 528 - © Thomas Duval.

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 CHEF + CUISINE
Happy Indochinese
New Year
By Olivia Tiboleng

The region of Indochina

refers to the lands within
the cultural influence
of India in the west and
China in the north. It is
the present-day areas of
Myanmar, Thailand, Laos,
Cambodia and Vietnam.
The Lunar New Year is
upon us, and we travelled
through Indochina to find
out how its inhabitants
celebrate their version of
this festivity by visiting
Indochinese restaurants
right here in Singapore.

055
中
印
半
岛

fish maw in
chicken essence
signifies Chinese - influence
delicacy enjoyed
once a year

larb (king salmon tartare)

signifies good luck
and prosperity

IndoChine | Gardens By The Bay, 18 Marina Gardens Drive, #03-01 , Gardens By The Bay, Singapore 018953

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 I ndoChine Singapore has made its name over

CHEF + CUISINE
the years as a restaurant and club. Its SuperTree
Atlantic lobster with Hong Kong outlet at Gardens By The Bay boasts of a beautiful
ee-fu noodle signifies view, and of course – a menu that serves up mod-
longevity in life Indochinese dishes. Chef Utis Chaikeaw, originally
from Thailand presents us dishes traditionally
served at a Laotian New Year, a country not far
from his homeland. He shares that the dishes in
this region tend to be more of comfort food, or
everyday food but the ingredients are changed
up for a more festive feel. Traditionally made
with ground pork or chicken, larb is a meat
based salad, combined with herbs in a simple but
flavourful dressing including fish sauce, limes and
chilli. Here at IndoChine, it is done with salmon
instead, which is a step up from the classic. For
crunch, rice ‘popcorn’ bits are added in. Chef Utis
goes on to share that larb signifies good luck and
prosperity, as the word ‘larb’ means lucky in the
Laotian language; therefore, it is prepared during
the New Year. Laos shares its northern border
with China, making it one of the more Chinese-
influenced countries in the Indochina region. The
next dish served was a fish maw soup. It is a thick,
gloopy soup that contains mushrooms and meat.
Although it is not an authentic Laotian dish, it
draws from its Chinese influences from the north
where fish maw is seen as a delicacy.

The Laotians have everyday comfort food,

Australian lamb rack with but changes up the ingredients for
tamarind sauce and potato cake a more festive feel.
signifies luxurious dish Utis Chaikeaw
enjoyed once a year
Another Chinese-influenced dish is next presented
to us. Ee-fu noodles are flat egg noodles that are
very common in Chinese cooking. It traditionally
signifies longevity in life, and the Laotians have
thus been influenced by this notion. At IndoChine,
they take it to the next level by elevating this
simple dish with lobster, which again is a delicacy
that is enjoyed only once a year. With such
myriad flavours and seafood served, IndoChine
recommends pairing these three dishes with a
vibrant tasting white wine such as their Casillero
del Diablo White from its Devil’s Collection. Finally,
it is ended off with another luxurious dish – lamb
rack. It is a modern dish prepared at New Year, and
served with a side of tamarind sauce and potato
cakes. Like most red meats, this dish is paired with
a red wine – notably the Casillero del Diablo Red
from its Devil’s Collection.
057
中
印
半
岛

steamed glutinous rice

with roasted chicken
signifies respect to the elders,
and wishing them
good health and life

braised pork belly with egg

signifies comfort and
familiarity of home
Saigon Alley | 273 Thomson Road #01-06, Novena Terrace, Singapore 307644

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

crispy imperial roll
signifies harmony
CHEF + CUISINE
Saigon Alley is located at Novena Gardens,
serving up traditional recipes from Ho Chi Minh
City (formerly known as Saigon). Despite its
quirky interior, the restaurant actually features
comforting Vietnamese dishes. Chef Ngo Vuong
Quoc Bao, originally from Vietnam, presents us his
first dish – crispy imperial rolls. The filling is juicy
and flavourful; made up of several ingredients to
signify the diversity of a family coming together
harmoniously. It is then wrapped in net paper
rolls, and deep-fried in high temperature – which
signifies a family overcoming difficulties. Of
course, like most Vietnamese, it is drunk with
Saigon beer. Next is a pig head sausage, similar
to a terrine, is presented. It is made up of pig’s
tongue, ears, and shoulder with black fungus.
The process of blanching the pork in hot water
signifies wishing good luck to someone in love and
to have a peaceful year clear of difficulties. The
sausage is then wrapped in banana leaf, tied up
and left to refrigerate overnight to firm up. This
dish is commonly paired with beer or homemade
Vietnamese rice wine, but in modern times white
wine is drunk, like a sauvignon blanc. For the
Vietnamese, the dishes served during their New
Year are all about familiarity, comfort and being
close to family.

Vietnamese dishes go well with many

pig head sausage alcoholic drinks, it all depends on the
signifies good weather. Rice wine when we have cold
luck to someone in weather, and beer when it’s warm.
love and to have a Ngo Vuong Quoc Bao
peaceful year clear
Just like in this next dish – pork belly is braised
of difficulties in coconut juice for about four hours, which
results in an extremely tender, melt-in-your-
mouth experience. It is served with hard boiled
eggs to give it a more homely feel. As usual, the
Vietnamese would have this with Saigon beer.
Chicken may or may not be very festive, but for
the Vietnamese, chicken is commonly used as
offerings to their deceased elders. It means that
having chicken at the New Year signifies respect to
the elders, and wishing them good health and life.
The next dish is a Vietnamese style roast chicken,
with steamed glutinous rice. This dish, despite
its simplicity has a remarkable meaning to it and
is enjoyed by children and adults, who would
sometimes have it with the Vietnamese rice wine.

059
 中
印
半
岛

mango sticky rice

signifies a family
pad Thai sticking together
signifies longevity
and beginnings

Long Chim | 10 Bayfront Avenue, #02-02, Atrium 2 The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands, The Shoppes, Singapore 018955

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 David Thompson, chef-owner of Long Chim,

miang kham
(dried prawn in betel leaf)
signifies the reunion of
family members
CHEF + CUISINE
might possibly be the king of Thai cuisine here in
Singapore. The restaurant, if you have not already
heard of it, offers fine renditions of Thai street
food and is located at The Shoppes At Marina
Bay Sands. Chef Yingyod Raktham was personally
handpicked by Chef Thompson himself to lead the
kitchen in Long Chim and he was nothing short of
informative when sharing the dishes that the Thais
have for New Year and their significances. It is very
common for Thai people to leave their hometowns
and go to the city to work, therefore, with Chef
Raktham’s first dish, ‘miang kham’ is served. Dried
prawns, toasted peanuts and coconut with shallots,
ginger and a tamarind sauce are wrapped in a
betel leaf. Traditionally, the ingredients are placed
on a large platter and family members would help
themselves putting it together. This dish signifies
the reunion of family members during the New
Year. As with most other Thai dishes, the drink of
choice is usually soft drinks or beer; Chang Beer to
be exact. Kanom jin with mashed prawn curry is
usually eaten as breakfast in the southern part of
Thailand. But has somehow evolved to be the dish
that Thais have during New Year, as it is a dish that
is easy to make in large quantities. At Long Chim,
it served on top of fresh rice noodles along with
fresh herbs and beansprouts.

Every single ingredient in the dishes

cooked for Thai New Year
kanom jin has a special meaning.
(fresh rice noodle) Yingyod Raktham
with mashed prawn curry
Just like in the Chinese belief, noodles signify
signifies longevity in life, longevity in life and in Thai beansprouts signify
birth, new beginnings birth, new beginnings or an ever-progressing life.
Many people all over the world know and love
pad Thai. It is originally a Chinese-influenced dish,
brought to the Thais many years ago where they
also introduced wok-cooking. The significance of
pad Thai is just like in kanom jin – longevity with
noodles and beansprouts to signify new beginnings.
The Thais also believe that tofu signifies happiness,
as it sounds like the Chinese word for happy: xingfu,
thus it is always added in pad Thai. When it comes
to Thai desserts, mango sticky rice always comes
to mind. It comes with glutinous sticky rice cooked
in coconut milk and pandan, served with a side of
fresh mango and garnished with mung beans. This
dish is served at the New Year’s simply because it is
so popular, but the sticky rice signifies a family who
‘eats together, sticks together’. OT
061
中 农历新年在 亚洲东南部的兴起
印 我 们常会听到，有太阳光的地方就有华人，
而华人确实遍布世界各地，因为有华人，
半 就有了庆祝农历新年的习俗。本期我们就来看看
在这中国以南，印度以东的中印半岛的百姓是如

岛 何庆祝这华人的盛大节日。整个中印半岛其实包
含许多国家，例如越南，柬埔寨，和寮国。当然
要广意些，我们还可以把整个东南亚的大陆地形
连接起来，这就包括了泰国，马来西亚半岛和新
加坡了。其实这也不是什么地理课程考研，只是
能够让我们更加了解整个中印半岛的位置。

位置新加坡汤申路一带，就有间非常有名的越南
餐厅，叫 Saigon Alley ,主厨米国宝师傅和餐厅经
理兼酒保阮氏金英，就为我们介绍了越南人如何
用菜香来寻味传统。我们在外头常吃到的越南春
卷几乎都是用米皮包起来，其实米师傅介绍说，
在很久以前，传统的越南春卷是用来炸的，口感
当然和用米皮包起来有若差。炸到金黄酥脆的春
卷，一口咬下，外皮酥脆，内馅包满爽口，真的
是激推主打。另一个是非常特别的“猪头冻”，
故名思义，猪头冻就是利用猪的头部，包括猪耳
朵，猪鼻子，还有猪的脸部一起下锅煮，熬煮到
整个猪头“溶解”，之后放凉，然后用香蕉叶包
裹起来，放入冰箱，这成为了一个开胃菜。餐厅
经理告诉我们，传统的越南食物没有所谓“真
正”的餐酒搭配，而是“气候”搭配。在冷天
时，大家喜欢用自家釀的米酒来搭配食物，倘若
是大热天，越南啤酒就成了首选。如此随性的风
格，确实让我喜欢。

位于在环境优美滨海湾花园的 IndoChine 餐厅，

看到餐厅的名字，大家应该不难想象餐厅里面的
食物吧！在这里你可以吃到传统口味的中印半岛
菜肴，但这里的师傅却给了菜肴摩登的“打扮”
。师傅认为，传统菜肴的精髓是值得传承的，但
传承精髓也必须看到现代人的饮食文化。传统的
摆盘也许不能再吸引食客，所以付于传统菜肴新
的外表是可以理解的。除了这些，在餐厅用餐，
你还可以见到师傅推着流动厨房的“餐车”在食
客面前展现厨艺，也让食客知道所吃到的菜肴里
面的食材。

另一个是坐落在滨海湾金沙的 Long Chim 餐厅。

传统的泰国美食，不花巧的摆盘是这里的特点，
就像泰国的传统“包菜”点心，师傅说，这点心
是特别为了欢迎家人回来而制作的。所以每当游
子回乡，在家的长辈就会做这个包菜点心来迎接
larb (king salmon tartare) from IndoChine 孩子。师傅也说到，他准备这四道食物都是手
工菜，正所谓手工菜有很多东西都必须用手工制
作，所以一家人一起下厨帮忙，也能曾添家人之
间的感情。我想无论你从那个国家来，能回到家
吃团圆饭是幸福的。志偉
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 Adventures In Korean Food

GO + RESTAURANT
& Alcohol Pairings
Masitkke Deuseyo!
By Kurt Ganapathy

When you pick up the menu at Joo

Bar, the first words that greet you
lend some insight into South Korean
drinking culture: “While the rest of the world
have a drink with their meal, Koreans prefer to have a meal
with their drink”. That’s no exaggeration. According to a 2014
report by market research company Euromonitor International,
South Koreans of legal drinking age consume an average of 13.7
shots of liquor a week. That’s more than what the Russians,
Americans and British consume combined. Despite our love
for Korean cuisine, many of us don’t know a whole lot about
Korean alcohol beyond the infamy of soju. To find out more, we
visited Korean barbecue restaurant Super Star K and makgeolli
specialists Joo Bar.

063
韩
流
来
袭

(Clockwise from top left): gyeran jjim, army stew, pork belly & beef short ribs

soju beef short ribs & army stew Kooksoondang Bekseju &
Jinro Bok Bun Ja Joo
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 GO + RESTAURANT
Kooksoondang Bekseju
Bekseju (or baekseju) is a medicinal wine with a
name that translates as “100 years wine” – not
because of how long it’s aged, but because it’s
said to help you live longer. When you look at the
list of ingredients, it’s easy to see why. Starting
with seolgaeng glutinous rice (a variety only used
in brewing) and high quality nuruk (a fermentation
starter of yeast and enzymes), the brewers at
Kooksoondang add a mixture of 12 herbs, which
includes ginseng, ginger, cinnamon and astragalus.
The result is a gently sweet brew with deep herbal
flavours and an abv of 13 percent.
Pair It With: Bekseju is great with more delicate
and straightforward dishes like Super Star K’s
fluffy gyeran jjim (steamed egg) and grilled beef
short ribs eaten ssam-style (wrapped in lettuce
with a dash of spicy ssamjang paste).

Jinro Chamisul Fresh Soju Jinro Bok Bun Ja Joo

The main reason Koreans lead the world in Another common sight at Korean restaurants,
that shots per week ranking is the ubiquity of bokbunja ju is a fruit wine made with a native
soju. Often likened to vodka, but actually closer variety of black raspberries. An attractive
to Japanese shochu with an average alcohol purplish red in colour, Jinro’s 15 percent abv
by volume (abv) of around 20 percent, soju is bokbunja ju is smooth with intense raspberry
mainly produced through the dilution of a spirit flavours but surprisingly approachable
that initially weighs in at 95 percent alcohol by sweetness. Interestingly, it’s also
volume. Traditionally, soju was made by distilling believed to be an aphrodisiac.
grains – a practice that continues among a handful Pair It With: While it does go
of artisanal producers in places like Andong. well with the aforementioned
Today, the spirit base for mass-produced soju can beef dishes, that mix of
be distilled from potatoes and tapioca as well. moderate sweetness and
Jinro is the biggest name in soju and one of the richness makes bokbunja
biggest names in alcohol worldwide; the company ju better company for a
has topped global liquor sales charts in recent spicy dish. We go with
years. Their Chamisul Fresh soju, which we taste a pot of Super Star K’s
at Super Star K, is an archetypal modern soju. It’s hearty budae jjigae
dry, clean and crisp – if a little neutral – thanks (army stew) and turn
to a production process that involves purification to the wine whenever
through bamboo charcoal four times we need some respite
Pair It With: While the team at Super Star K from the heat and array
happily tells us that this soju pairs with practically of competing flavours.
everything on their menu, it’s perhaps best suited
for dishes with complex flavours on the lower
end of the spiciness scale. We particularly enjoy
it with their king-sized beef ribs seasoned with
sesame oil, sugar, pepper and leeks.
 Joo Bar Makgeolli
韩 Another icon of Korea, makgeolli has been
consumed in the peninsula for so long that no

流 one is quite sure when it was first made. Written

records indicate that it was already popular during

来 the reign of King Dongmyeong of Goguryeo from

袭 and vitamins. A milky, cloudy brew crafted from
Joo Bar Sojurita
A uniquely Korean take on the Coronarita, Joo
Bar’s Sojurita is a frozen concoction of soju,
Cointreau and lemon juice with a bottle of Hite
beer tipped in for good measure. It’s fun, indulgent
and designed for the social media generation.
Pair It With: The Sojurita is a drink to get any party
started, so a Korean take on a classic bar bite is
in order. We’re talking about the dak kang jung
– chicken tenders with gochujang, honey, garlic
and chopped nuts.
Jinro Chamisul Grapefruit Soju
Flavoured soju is a major ongoing trend that has
taken Korea and the rest of the world by storm
in the last two years. Sweeter and usually infused
with a citrus flavour, they offer added refreshment
to the clean-cut soju experience.
Pair It With: Seafood and citrus is always a winning
combination, so the team at Joo Bar recommends
their grilled squid with piquant gochujang
mayonnaise to go with the Jinro Chamisul
grapefruit soju.
37BC to 19BC. Makgeolli is regarded as a healthy
beverage containing more than ten amino acids
rice and nuruk, makgeolli is pleasantly sweet and
lightly carbonated. While Singapore has long had
a thriving microbrewery scene, Joo Bar became
the first establishment to brew its own makgeolli
here when they opened in late 2014. They literally
rewrote the rules for brewing in Singapore and
had to obtain a special license to begin operations.
With full control over the brewing process, Joo Bar
creates a wide range of makgeolli, which includes
four flavoured versions and the undiluted wonju.
Their makgeolli varies from seven to eight percent
abv while wonju is twice as strong.
Pair It With: Joo Bar serves a five-cup makgeolli
sampler set which comprises the original along
with four seasonal flavours (currently yuzu,
passion fruit, blood orange and lychee). The
spectrum of sweetness and acidity provides
plenty of pairing possibilities. The original Joo
Bar makgeolli and its heftier compatriot wonju
(ordered separately from the sampler set) are
both perfect with the warm kimchi with tofu and
spam. The subtle blood orange makgeolli works
best with slow-roasted Mangalitsa pork belly
from Hungary, known as the wagyu of pork. The
bracing acidity of the yuzu makgeolli, meanwhile,
means that it can cope with the Joo bossam (fatty
Mangalitsa pork belly, spicy radish salad and
white yuzu kimchi).

Joo Bar Sojurita Joo Bar original makgeolli Joo Bar blood orange makgeolli

Joo Bar | 5 Tan Quee Lan Street, Singapore 188094 | Tel: (65) 8138 1628
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 GO + RESTAURANT

(Clockwise from top left): Joo bossam, dak kang jung, warm kimchi with tofu & spam
& slow-roasted Mangalitsa pork belly 067
 Raymond Blanc

chef + visit
The Epitome Of Knowledge
Woven With Infectious Passion

te
h e
t broc
i
exotc fru

069
 Kenwood, one of the world’s top leading kitchen

食 appliance company has partnered with acclaimed

Chef Raymond Blanc to bring to Singapore a

尚 masterclass conducted at Burkill Hall. Surrounded

by the lush greenery and rare orchids, the turn
up for the masterclass was astounding with over
厨 130 people showing up. Chef Blanc had also
spent some tme at the Open Farm Community
艺 with Bjorn Low, the founder of Edible Gardens
in Singapore for a deeper insight on Southeast
Asian herbs and plants. “It makes sense, because
seasonality is close to home. You help the farmers
by supportng beautful local produce,” Chef
Blanc says. The team at Cuisine & Wine Asia, for
obvious reasons couldn’t resist the opportunity
to speak to the enthusiastc Chef Blanc about his
inspiraton sources and of his journey.

C hef Raymond Blanc, 67 is one of the most well-

known self-taught chefs in the industry. His
mind is an intricate complex of webs – he knows
everything and he understands why he has to know
everything. Metculous in his steps, Chef Blanc
believes that the details will make a difference.
“We’re not mercenaries. We’re not doing what we
do for recogniton by guides. As chefs, we must
constantly be curious. Enrich ourselves through handmade spaghetti with clam
trouble and integrate a mosaic of cultures into
our repertoire. I was a self-taught chef – a product
of my parents, terroir and my own failures and Wantng to educate himself further, he went as
mistakes.” Chef Blanc’s path as a chef wasn’t paved far as to taste every glass of wine that came back,
smoothly. He was first a cleaner, dishwasher and notng the differences. He eventually lost his job
waiter, but during each job, he made effort to be and bruised his ego when trying to suggest to a
the best. chef whom he thought was a friend about cooking.
“I was exiled to Great Britain. I had to regain my
confidence. Those television shows are damaging
our industry’s image. You shouldn’t motvate by
violence or fear. I feel that we are failing the young
generaton by being abusive. Lead our progeny
with knowledge and care.”

soupe au pistou
WWW.AsiAcUisiNe.cOM

When the intelligence of everyone
– my team and myself,
is placed down unto inconsequential
paper filling it with density,
for a fleeting moment,
we may touch excellence and beauty.
Raymond Blanc
Chef Blanc’s cooking shows are filled with scientfic
references, most of which he scoured the libraries
as a young chef for. He felt that knowing the
scientfic process behind food would to help beter
the profession. He found a much respected friend
who shared the same vision as him, a biochemist
named Professor Nicholas Kurt whom which Chef
Blanc spent odd hours discussing notons with.
After two short years, Professor Kurt passed on.
“He was the most amazing man. He simplified all
the science behind food for me. He said once that
we are ready to go to Mars but we don’t even know
what’s happening in a soufflé. That stuck with me,
and I contnued to pass on his knowledge.”
Raymond Blanc OBE
Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Church Road, Great Milton, Oxfordshire, OX447PD
Tel: (44) 18 4427 8881
chef + visit
The most conspicuous thing besides his blatant,
contagious enthusiasm for food is Chef Blanc’s
capacity to impart his know-how to the younger
generaton. “The most essental part of any human
being is to completely open up the mind. Once you
close the mind, you are losing optons. For example, I
was a young chef, I was completely self-taught. I had
litle guidance – I tried to reinvent or make things
beter. It was very hard, and these reasons are why I
want to nurture the young ones. The younger chefs
are very lucky as they have mentors today – they will
eventually become much beter leaders than the
chefs of today. I want them to be beter than me,
and so I pass on my values and my knowledge.”
Chef Blanc says with regards to machinery after
making some beautful pasta from the pasta
machine, “I know now, some of you will ask me
which is beter – hands or machines? I’ll tell you
now that machines can help. For example, Kenwood
appliances are so well engineered, so simple and
they carry the same philosophy. Your equipment
is crucially important. I just had a smoothie that
was done by the Kenwood blender and it was great
because all the air is incorporated into the fruits. Air
is the catalyst of flavours in the beginning. Towards
the end, it kills the flavours through oxidaton. The
air creates silkiness and fullness. Less air inside
would make it very different.”
Dennis Mak – a zealous fan of Chef Blanc joined
us at the masterclass and brought along two
cookbooks by Chef Blanc to be autographed. He
requested Chef Blanc to address the autograph
to his daughter so when she grows up, she’ll have
something by him. What he said to Chef Blanc
resonated within me and knowing that he secretly
harbours an intense desire to replace Chef Adam
Johnson on the cooking shows made me all the
more drawn to the exchange between them. He
even spent tme selectng a smooth, no doubt pricy
fountain pen which he asked Chef Blanc to sign
the cookbooks. He said to Chef Blanc, “We have a
three-month-old daughter. I don’t know if she will
become a chef one day, but I hope she will have
the same passion as you for whatever she chooses
to do in life.” Did I menton that Mak is most likely
the culprit behind the high number of views on all
of Chef Blanc’s YouTube videos? You’ll just have to
watch the videos to comprehend why. DD
071
食
尚
厨
艺

One Of
Europe’s Finest
San Pellegrino’s Fine Dining Lovers
Series have brought together the two
of the greatest masters of modern
French cuisine together for two nights
of absolutely stunning food in Singapore.
Hosted at Odete, both Chef Julien Royer,
his team and Chef Andreas Caminada
executed stunning dishes for over 90
privileged guests.

WWW.AsiAcUisiNe.cOM
O

chef + visit
ne only needs to whip out their handphone
and google Schauenstein Schloss – the
infamous restaurant-hotel, click the street view and
be mesmerised by the federal style architecture of
the building. Or, if you’re lucky enough to be able
to drive there, take the scenic route and pass by
the breath-taking Swiss alps. Leading up to the
door are stone steps that take you past areas of,
depending on the seasons, vibrant green plants
and colourful flowers. Chef Andreas Caminada –
charismatc and modelesque is the chef behind the
surprising and mind-blowing flavours of the three-
Michelin-starred restaurant. Odete on the other
hand has garnered much media atenton when
Chef Julien Royer first opened its doors. During
his previous four year tenure at JAAN, he brought
the restaurant to great heights. The validaton of
Chef Royer’s skills and knowledge was then further
cemented when Odete received two-Michelin-star
after just nine months of opening. So we gladly
took the opportunity to sit with Chef Caminada and
tried to discover the workings of one of Europe’s *scallop tartare with walnut nage
finest chefs.
“I started my apprentceship at sixteen. It was
*Lake Walen (Walensee) pickled trout & tough and the seniors were very strict. The
trout tartare, pickled carrot with herb emulsion experiences made me strong and I was never
alone. There was always a gang to help us get
through it,” Chef Caminada tells us about how he
started out his career. When he chanced upon the
18th century castle that used to be a private school
and was empty for two years, he fell in love with
the building. “I didn’t know where it could end. I
was 26 when I decided to open a restaurant. If I did
now what I did then, I would have my identty, and
I would know what I want. At that tme, we didn’t
know if anyone would come as we had no concept.
We just started with the passion and energy from
four of us – my then girlfriend Sarah who is now
my wife, my assistng chef, a dishwasher and
myself.” The workload was immense and the first
three years was unbearable for the small team.
They had to cater to guests from the rooms and
the 25-seater restaurant during breakfast, lunch
and dinner. Their waking hours would begin from
6.30am and drag all the way to 2am, never allowing
tme for anything else. Chef Caminada says wearily,
“I didn’t have a big menu system then because
there was never tme to sit down and think. I had
to be spontaneous. Oh, tonight we’ll make this, and
that. And we stll had the hotel guests to atend
to. I started something from scratch, not knowing
where it would end. We put all our tme, money
and energy into it.

*Recipes refer to page 78 & 81 073

食
尚 We’re not located in the city,
厨 we’re quite far away and
艺 our waiting list is long.
So when our guests come in,
it’s our responsibility to make
sure that they have a good time.
It’s all about hospitality.
Andreas Caminada

*chilled cucumber soup with

avocado foam & butermilk snow

WWW.AsiAcUisiNe.cOM *Recipe refer to page 79


Andreas Caminada & Julien Royer
I didn’t want to take in more employees because
that could kill me too in many ways. It was a big
mess back then. But I never felt like giving up
– I loved it from the first day we started. It was
hard, stll is hard, but I absolutely love it. Every
day I go into work with a lot of positve energy.”
Schauenstein Schloss now has 38 employees to
run the business. The structure of the system
has evolved – Chef Caminada while stll being
spontaneous had to change himself and mostly
plans the menus for his team. Chef Caminada
draws upon various factors to inspire him. In his
office he has a ‘sideboard’ where he pens down
his ideas and has plates stacked around. “If I see a
plate, it inspires me. It’s a stage for the food. I start
platng it small and then it becomes somewhat
dramatc – a puzzle waitng to be pieced together.
The products and seasonality, the taste of what
people want and my childhood memories: all
these comes together when I create something.
Schauenstein Schloss
Schlossgass 77, 7414 Fürstenau, Switzerland | Tel: (41) 8 1632 1080
chef + visit
I also have my magazine which I publish twice
a year. That also pressurises me to create, it’s
my tool.” Giving back to society is important to
Chef Caminada. Wantng to do something for
the industry he founded Fundaziun Uccelin. The
platform allows aspiring young chefs who don’t
have the funds to take their dreams of learning
from various restaurants further. “We handle the
logistcs and the costs. The students can choose
where they want to go – we have the contacts. If
they choose us, then we train them so that they
will be great when they leave us one day. They’re
not bound to serve us after they graduate. They’re
free to spread their wings and hopefully, take what
they’ve learnt and pass it on. They do however;
have to create a product that can be sold to
generate funds for the next student that comes in.
I hope the foundaton will contnue even tll after
I’m dead!”
We got a break from the routine.
The team learnt new techniques
and new things. I really like
Chef Andreas Caminada’s dish of cucumber.
It’s very organic, feminine and elegant.
The lamb dish from his region was also
beautiful with smoky flavours.
Julien Royer
Regarding the collaboraton with Odete in our
litle island, Chef Caminada says enthusiastcally,
“Singapore is great – it’s a culinary hotspot now!
Odete is really beautful and it’s an honour to
work alongside Chef Julien Royer and his team.”
Chef Royer feels the same, “It’s about sharing
experiences and Chef Caminada is very open-
minded. It was good for the team, very enriching
for them to learn from such a high calibre chef.
Chef Caminada’s food is very elegant and his
style is very spontaneous.” When we asked Chef
Caminada of his own plans for a collaboraton, he
says, “I’ve never done it before because we were
always so busy. But now, my great friend – Quique
Dacosta, owner of eponymous three-Michelin-
starred restaurant says he wants to do it. So we will
do it at the end of March. It’s going to be a lot of
fun, I’m sure.” DD
075
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CHEF + RECIPE

077
OOD

DIY
 chilled cucumber soup with
avocado foam & buttermilk snow
厨 By Chef Andreas Caminada

房 1
1⁄2
(each) cucumber and tomato, chopped
(each) shallot, peeled and
green pepper, chopped
百 Salt and freshly ground white pepper,
to taste

科 A few drops of white balsamic vinegar

Fresh basil, tarragon and coriander,
for marinating
50g yoghurt

Avocado Foam
140g yoghurt
20g brown sugar
16g avocado pulp
60ml lime juice
20ml olive oil
1 gelatine sheet, bloomed

Buttermilk Snow
300ml buttermilk
Lake Walen (Walensee) pickled trout & 50ml full-fat milk
trout tartare, pickled carrot with herb emulsion 1 lime, zested
By Chef Andreas Caminada A pinch of sugar and salt

Chive and sour-cream powder, for scattering

Pickled Trout
Marinated avocado pieces, for topping
750ml water
Vinegared cucumber strips and herbs, for garnishing
250ml white balsamic vinegar Cucumber granite, for topping
50g salt Powdered dill, for dusting
1 trout fillet (500g), deboned and skin removed
Infused verbena basil tarragon olive oil,
for marinating • For the pickled trout: Mix 750ml water with the white
balsamic vinegar and salt in a container. Add in the
Trout Tatare trout fillet and brine for about an hour and 30 minutes.
1 trout fillet (200g), deboned, skin removed, Remove the brined trout fillet from the salt solution and
and cubed pat dry with absorbent paper towels. Marinate the
Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste brined trout fillet in the infused verbena basil tarragon
Olive oil, for drizzling olive oil and then cut into 4 pieces. Set aside.
Lime zest, for sprinkling • For the trout tartare: Season to taste the cubed trout
fillet with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Drizzle
Pickled Carrot with olive oil and sprinkle with lime zest. Place the
4 baby carrots, peeled and halved trout tartare into 4 ring moulds and press down gently.
2 purple carrots, peeled and cut into strips Keep chilled.
75g sugar • For the pickled carrot: Place the cut baby and purple
25g salt carrots into a sterilised jar. Add in the rest of the
2 tsp mustard seeds ingredients and seal the jar tightly. Place the sealed
1 bouquet tarragon jar into a prepared hot steamer at 100°C and steam
250ml white wine vinegar for about 10 minutes. Remove and set aside to cool.
750ml water • For the herb emulsion: Heat the beef bouillon in a
saucepan over a medium heat until stock has reduced
Herb Emulsion by half. Blanch the lettuce leaves, spinach and fresh
1 ltr beef bouillon herbs in the beef bouillon reduction. Transfer the
200g lettuce leaves blanched ingredients into a food processor. Gradually
100g spinach add in the beef bouillon reduction, olive oil and pulse
50g (each) fresh tarragon and chervil until emulsified. Season to taste with white balsamic
200ml olive oil vinegar, pumpkin seed oil, salt and freshly ground
White balsamic vinegar and pumpkin seed oil, white pepper. Transfer the herb emulsion into a squeeze
to taste bottle. Set aside.
• Place a slice of pickled trout fillet onto each serving
4 quenelle of carrot purée plate. Add in the pickled carrots and a quenelle of
Agrumi gel and smoked whey, for piping carrot purée. Pipe the agrumigel onto the serving plate
and top with the trout tartare. Pipe the herb emulsion,
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM and smoked whey onto the serving plate. Serves 4
 CHEF + RECIPE
• Mix the chopped cucumber, tomato, shallot and green
pepper in a mixing bowl. Season to taste with salt and
freshly ground white pepper. Add a few drops of white
balsamic vinegar, add in the fresh herbs and marinate
for about 30 minutes. Transfer the marinated cucumber
mixture into a food processor and pulse until smooth.
Pass the cucumber purée through a sieve and then
fold in the yoghurt. Adjust seasoning and keep chilled
the cucumber soup.
• For the avocado foam: Place all the ingredients into a
food processor and pulse until smooth. Season to taste
with salt and freshly ground white pepper. Transfer the
mixture into a soda siphon and attach with two N2O
capsules and store in a cool place.
• For the buttermilk snow: Whisk buttermilk and full-fat
milk in a canister. Season to taste with lime zest, a pinch
of sugar and salt. Transfer the buttermilk mixture into a
Pacojet beaker and freeze.
• Scatter the chive and sour-cream powder onto each
serving plate and top with marinated avocado pieces.
Garnish with vinegared cucumber strips and herbs. Add
in the frozen buttermilk snow, top with cucumber granita
and dust with powdered dill. Discharge the avocado
foam over and pour in the chilled cucumber soup.
Serves 4

079
 chimichurri marinated black cod, • Heat the fish stock and lemon verbena leaves in a

厨 carbonada foam, citrus & rocoto

By Chef Martin Molteni
saucepan over a medium heat to 70°C and poach the
black cod in the fish stock for about 10 minutes. Remove
and cut into 4 pieces. Keep warm.

房 500ml
1
fish stock
black cod (400g)
• For the chimichurri sauce: Place all the ingredient into
a food proceesor and pulse until smooth. Set aside.
• For the carbonada foam: Roast the pumpkin in a
百 3 lemon verbena leaves
Basil cress and julienned leeks, for garnishing
pre-heated oven until tender. Remove and set aside
to cool. Once cooled, scoop the cooled pulp and

科 Chimichurri Sauce
3 tomatoes (different types), quartered
place into a food processor. Add in the roasted sweet
potatoes and peach pulp and pulse until smooth. Pass
the mixture through a sieve and add in cream and
3 silver skin onions, halved, separated by layers
butter. Adjust seasoning; and strain. Transfer the mixtue
1 lemon, sliced and brine in rock salt for 4 hours
into a soda siphon, attach with two N20 capsules and
1 leek, white portion, roasted and
place into a water-bath at 70°C.
green portion, dried into black powder
• Spoon the chimichurri sauce onto the centre of each
serving plate and top with a poached black cod.
Carbonada Foam
Discharge the carbonara foam over and garnish with
1 pumpkin (400g), scrubbed clean
basil cress and julienned leeks. Serves 4
60g sweet potatoes, roasted
40g peach pulp, roasted
250g cream
60g butter
300ml beef stock
2g paprika
15g salt

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
scallop tartare with walnut nage

CHEF + RECIPE
By Chef Julien Royer

4 scallops, shucked, skirted,

roe removed, cubed and keep chilled
Salt and extra virgin olive oil, for seasoning
Caviars, raw fennel strips and fronds,
for garnishing

Walnut Nage
24 Perigord walnuts, soaked in milk overnight
225ml green grape juice
40mg xanthan gum
1 tsp walnut oil
Lime juice, to taste

• For the walnut nage: Crack each soaked walnut into

half and place into a cooking pot. Pour in enough cold
water to cover the walnuts and cook over a medium
heat until walnuts are tender. Remove and drain
well. Repeat this process several times to remove the
bitterness and then set aside the cooked walnuts to
cool. Once cooled, transfer the cooked walnuts into
a food processor. Add in the green grape juice and
xanthan gum and pulse on a high speed until smooth.
Reduce speed, gradually add in the walnut oil und pulse
until emulsified. Season to taste with lime juice. Strain
the walnut nage through a fine sieve and set aside.
• Lightly dress the chilled diced scallops with salt and extra
virgin olive oil and place into the center of each serving
bowl. Garnish with caviars, raw fennel strips and fronds.
Spoon with the walnut nage over. Serves 4

081
 beef flank empanadas "al carbon"

厨 By Chef Soledad Nardelli

Dough
房 1kg
250g
bread flour
cow fat

百 30g
2
250ml
salt
whole eggs, lightly beaten
warm water

科 30ml black food colouring

Beef Flank
1kg beef flank, trimmed and miced
250g vegetable mirepoix
1 bouquet garni
1 bottle of red wine (750ml)
1kg onions, peeled and chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
A bunch of spring onions, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Cooking oil, for deep-frying

• For the dough: Place all the dry ingredients into a mixing
bowl and make a well in the centre of the flour mixture.
Gradually, add in the beaten whole eggs and 250ml
warm water and beat until a smooth dough is formed.
Add in the black food colouring, and knead well. Roll
the dough out onto a lightly floured surface into a thin
dough sheet and cut into 4 discs. Set aside.
• For the beef flank filling: Place the miced beef flank,
vegetable mirepoix and bouquet garni into a baking
pan. Pour in the red wine, and cover the baking pan
with a sheet of aluminium foil. Braise in a pre-heated
oven at 90°C until meat is tender, for about 7 hours.
Remove and shred the braised meat (reserve the beef
jus). Add in the chopped onions, garlic and spring
onions. Add in the reserved braised beef jus and season
to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Set aside
the beef flank fiilling to cool. Once cooled, place a
tablespoon of the beef flank filling onto each dough
disc, and then fold over to make a half circle and crimp
the edges. Set aside. Heat a pot of cooking oil until hot
and deep-fry the empanadas until crisp. Remove and
drain well on absorbent paper towels. Serves 4

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 CHEF + RECIPE
beef saikyo miso isobeyaki
By Chef Kazuki Arai

500g short plate beef, cut into (4 x 200g) chucks

20g saikyo white miso
180ml (each) cooking sake and mirin
200g carrots, peeled katsuramuki-style, thinly sliced
and soaked in salted water
1 (each) shimonita green onion and zucchini,
thinly sliced
4 yakinori seaweed sheets
Cooking oil, for pan-frying
Mirin soy sauce, for basting

• Marinate the short plate beef chucks with saikyo

white miso, cooking sake and mirin overnight.
Place the marianted short plate beef chucks into a
vacuum pack and sous vide in a sous vide circulator
at 58°C for about 44 minutes. Remove and wrap the
sous vided short plate beef chucks with the sliced
carrots, shimonita green onion, zucchini and yakinori
seaweed sheets into rolls. Pierce each beef roll into
a bamboo skewer and set aside. Heat a frying pan
with cooking oil over a medium heat until hot. Add
in the skewered short plate beef rolls and baste
with mirin soy sauce and pan-fry until lightly brown.
Remove and cut each roll into 3 sections. Serves 4

soupe au pistou (pistou soup) • For the pistou sauce: Blanch the basil in a pot of boiling
By Chef Raymond Blanc water for about 5 seconds. Drain well and plunge into
an ice water – bath to stop the cooking process. Drain
Pistou Sauce again and squeeze out any excess water. Chop the
30g basil stalks and leaves blanched basil and place into a food processor. Add
4 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed in the crushed garlic, and extra virgin olive oil. Season
100ml extra virgin olive oil with a pinch of sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, and pulse to a smooth purée. Adjust seasoning and
to taste keep chilled.
Soup • For the soup: Heat extra virgin olive oil in a saucepan
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil over a medium heat until hot. Add in the diced white
½ white onion, peeled and diced onion, carrot, celery and fennel and sweat for about
1 carrot, peeled and diced 3 minutes. Season with sea salt and a pinch of freshly
½ celery stick, diced ground white pepper. Pour in 800ml boiling water and
½ fennel bulb, diced boil rapidly for another 5 minutes. Add in the diced
800ml boiling water courgette and podded broad beans and peas and
1 courgette, diced cook for another 3 minutes. Add in the halved cherry
50g (each) broad beans and peas, podded tomatoes and cook for another 60 seconds. Add in
8 cherry tomatoes, skin on and halved 50g pistou sauce and sprinkle with grated Parmesan
Grated Parmesan cheese, for sprinkling cheese. Adjust seasoning. Ladle the pistou soup into
Toasted baguettes or croutons, for serving each warmed serving bowl and sprinkle with grated
Parmesan cheese. Serve with toasted baguettes or
croutons. Serves 4

083
厨 • Mix whisky maple, kosher salt, sugar with a
liter of water in a cooking pot. Add in the

房 pork collar and brine for about an hour. Mix

all the spice mix ingredients in a mixing bowl.
Remove the brined pork collar from the liquid
百 and drain well. Coat the brined pork collar
with the spice mix, and then roll into a roulade

科 and tie both ends with butcher strings. Roast the

whisky maple coated pork collar in a pre-heated
oven at 130°C until tender. Remove and set aside
to rest for about 20 minutes and then cut into discs.
Keep warm.
• For the cranberry jus: Heat frying pan with cooking
oil until hot and sweat the dried cranberries, sliced
yellow onions and thyme sprigs. Deglaze with wine,
and simmer until wine has reduced. Add in the
demi-glace and heat mixture to a boil. Strain the
cranberry jus and season with salt. Set aside.
• For the cornbread: Whisk whole eggs and buttermilk
in a mixing bowl until creamy. Add in the melted
whisky maple roasted Iberico pork collar with unsalted butter and whisk well. Mix the rest of the
cranberry jus, cornbread, braised kale & dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and fold into the
buttermilk mixture. Pour the batter into a baking
deep-fried pickled baby okra
pan and bake in a pre-heated oven at 177ºC until
By Chef Ong Jing Qin
golden brown. Remove and cut into rectangular
pieces.
50g whisky maple* • Place the braised kale onto each serving plate and
38g kosher salt top with whisky maple roasted pork collar discs. Add
17g sugar the deep-fried pickled baby okras and a piece of
1 ltr water cornbread. Spoon the cranberry jus over. Serves 4
1 Iberico pork collar (300g)*

150g braised kale pan-seared scallop with endive,

12 deep-fried pickled baby okras pickled green tea, crispy bean &
pea, toasted nut & seed
Spice Mix
By Chef Toni Robertson
5g (each) sage, thyme, coriander powder
and cumin powder
8 scallops*, pan-seared
3g (each) cinnamon powder and
1 (each) Belgium endive and
fennel powder
green apple, cut into bite-sized
50ml grapeseed oil*
1 radish, peeled and thinly sliced
10ml bourbon vanilla*
30g (each) toasted pine nuts, peanuts and
Cranberry Jus
coarsely chopped almonds
Cooking oil, for sweating
30g (each) sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds
60g dried cranberries
5g (each) toasted sesame seeds, chai seeds,
25g yellow onions, peeled and sliced
poppy seeds and flax seeds
2 thyme sprigs
50ml Shiraz wine*
Pickled Green Tea
150ml demi-glace
20g Long Jing tea leaves
4g salt
1 jalapeno pepper, sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled and chopped
Cornbread
2 tbsp olive oil
2 whole eggs
Kosher salt, to taste
240ml buttermilk
75g unsalted butter, melted
Crispy Bean & Pea
170g (each) all-purpose flour and yellow cornmeal
30g (each) garbanzo beans and yellow split peas,
1½ tsp baking powder
soaked overnight
½ tsp baking soda
Sunflower oil, for stir-frying
1 tsp salt
Salt, to taste

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM * Ingredients from Phoon Huat

 braised Iberico carrilleras & seafood Inari • Heat cooking oil in a stockpot over a medium heat

CHEF + RECIPE
parcel (Alaska king crab leg, Hokkaido until hot. Add in the chopped garlic, shallots, ginger
and sweat the mixture until fragrance. Add in the
scallop & oyster), Mentaiko crumb & XO sauce carrileras and sear over a high heat until brown. Add
By Chef Kong Kok Kiang in the chicken stock, oyster sauce, soy sauce and rock
sugar and stir well. Heat the mixture to a boil. Reduce
Cooking oil, for sautéing heat and cover the stockpot with a lid and braise until
20g (each) roughly chopped garlic, shallots meat is folk tender. Remove and shred the braised
and ginger carrilleras and set aside. Strain the resulting braised
1 Iberico carrilleras (Iberian pork cheek, 500g)* sauce and reserve.
1.5 ltr chicken stock • For the braised seafood Inari parcel: Reheat the
30ml oyster sauce reserved braised sauce over a medium heat to a
10ml soy sauce boil. Once boiled, turn off the heat and poach all the
5g rock sugar seafood in the braised sauce for about 4 minutes.
• Place the shredded carrileras onto each Inari skin and
4 asparsgus spears, peeled, trimmed top with the poached seafood and wrap into a parcel.
and sautéed Return the seafood parcels back into the hot braised
4 vine-ripened tomatoes, sautéed sauce and cook for another 8 minutes.
60g Mentaiko crumbs* • Place a braised seafood parcel into each serving
XO sauce, for serving bowl and top with the sautéed vegetables. Sprinkle
with Mentaiko crumbs and spoon the XO sauce over.
Seafood Inari Parcel Serves 4
4 Hokkaido scallops*
4 oysters*, shucked
1 Alaska king crab leg, de-shelled*
4 Inari skins

• For the pickled green tea: Blanch the tea leaves in a

pot of boiling salted water for at least three times to get
rid of the bitterness. Remove and drain well. Marinade
the blanched tea leaves with the rest of the ingredients
for about three days at room temperature.
• For the crispy bean & pea: Cook the soaked garbanzo
beans and yellow split peas separately in a pot of
boiling salted water until softened, but not falling apart.
Drain well and pat-dry with absorbert paper towels.
Set aside. Heat sunflower oil in a wok over a low heat
until hot and stir-fry the blanched beans and peas until
crispy. Remove and season to taste with salt.
• Place the endive, bite-sized green apple and sliced
radish into a mixing bowl. Add in all the toasted nuts
and seeds and toss well. Add in the crispy beans and
peas and toss well. Top with pan-seared scallops.
Serve with olive oil, lemon juice and salt on the sides
(optional). Serves 4

* Ingredients from Phoon Huat 085

厨
房
百
科

wagyu beef striploin ultra with compressed

truffle potato & sautéed vegetables
By Chef Alfred Lee

1 wagyu striploin ultra (600g)*, fat trimmed and • Seasoned the sliced wagyu striploin with salt and
cut into 4 pieces coarsely ground black pepper. Set aside. Heat canola
½ tsp (each) salt and coarsely ground black pepper oil in a frying pan over a high heat until hot. Add in the
1 tsp canola oil seasoned wagyu beef striploin and sear on all sides until
lightly brown. Transfer the frying pan into a pre-heated
2 tbsp mini garlic croutons with roasted hazelnuts oven at 180ºC and roast to a desired doneness. Remove
8 brocollini, blanched and rest for about 4 minutes before serving.
4 baby carrots, blanched and sautéed with butter • Place a piece of roasted waygu beef striploin onto
Bordelaise sauce, for serving each serving plate and top with mini garlic croutons
1 scallion stalk, cut into 7-cm lengths and sautéed with roasted hazelnuts. Add a compressed truffle
with butter and vin jaune cream sauce potato and the sautéed vegetables on the sides. Add
a spoonful of bordelaise sauce. Serves 4
Compressed Truffle Potato
1 canned goose fat
200g new potatoes, peeled and sliced
1 (each) garlic clove, peeled and chopped Iberico ham wrapped duck rillette &
and thyme sprig, minced
A pinch of (Alba White) truffle salt* and
pan-seared foie gras, fig & date chutney
freshly ground white pepper with glazed truffle balsamic
20g black truffle*, thinly sliced By Chef Louis Tay
1 tbsp truffle oil*
80g duck rillette*
• For the compressed truffle potato: Heat goose fat 10g Iberico ham*, sliced and divided
in a frying pan until melted. Add in the sliced new 5g (each) merlot wine jelly and
potatoes and confit over a low heat, for about 20 summer truffle slice*
minutes. Remove and drain well. Set aside. Reheat 2 40g sliced foie gras*
tablespoons of goose fat in a non-stick skillet over a Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
medium heat until hot. Add in the confit new potatoes, 5ml sherry vinegar
chopped garlic and minced thyme and pan-sear on
both sides until golden brown. Season with a pinch of 20g fig and date chutney*
truffle salt and freshly ground white pepper. Tranfser the 1 toasted olive oil baguette slice
pan-seared new potatoes into a mould and compress 5g balsamic pearls*
with the sliced black truffle and keep chilled overnight. 5ml glazed truffle balsamic*
Once chilled, cut the compressed truffle potato and
regenerate in the oven, and then brush with truffle oil.
Keep warm.

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM * Ingredients from Phoon Huat

 roasted rack of Iberico pork with pommery

CHEF + RECIPE
mash, thyme gravy & honey pear
By Chef Eric Neo

1kg rack of Iberico pork*, fat trimmed

3 tsp olive oil
1 thyme sprig, leaves picked
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1 (each) onion, carrot and celery, roughly cut
Thyme gravy, for serving

Honey Pear
2 pears, peeled and halved
3 tbsp runny honey
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
½ lemon, juiced
50g unsalted butter
3 tbsp brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick

• Divide the duck rillette into two equal portions and
place into 2 ring moulds. Keep chilled for about 20
minutes. Unmould the chilled duck rillette and place
a slice of Iberico ham around the side and top with
merlot wine jelly. Deep-fry the remaining Iberico ham
until crispy for garnishing. Place the summer truffle slice
onto the other chilled duck rillette and set aside.
• Season to taste the foie gras with salt and freshly ground
black pepper, and pan-sear in a hot frying-pan for
about 30 seconds on each side, and deglaze with
sherry vinegar.
• Place the Iberico duck rillette onto a serving plate and
garnish with crispy Iberico ham. Place the summer truffle
duck rilette in the center of the plate and spoon the fig
and date chutney at the side. Place the pan-seared
foie gras on top of the toasted olive oil baguette and
top with balsamic pearls and drizzle with glazed truffle
balsamic. Serves1
Pommery Mash
6 potatoes, cooked and peeled
2 tbsp (each) butter and cream
1 tsp pommery mustard
• For the honey pear: Place the pears into a gratin dish
and drizzle with running honey and balsamic vinegar.
Add in the lemon juice, unsalted butter, brown sugar
and cinnamon stick. Cook the honey pears in a pre-
heated oven until dark gold in colour and tender, for
about 45 minutes.
• For the pommery mash: Mash the cooked potatoes
with butter, cream and pommery mustard in a mixing
bowl until smooth. Set aside.
• Marinate the pork rack with oilve oil and thyme leaves.
Seson to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. Place
the cut vegetables into a roasting pan and top with
the marinated pork rack. Bake in a pre-heated oven
at 220°C for about 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 180°C
and continue to bake for another 40 minutes. Remove
and cut into 4 pieces.
• Place a piece of roasted rack of Iberico pork onto each
serving plate and top with the roasted vegetables. Add
a honey pear and the pommery mash and spoon the
thyme gravy over. Serves 4

* Ingredients from Phoon Huat 087

 three-coloured sablè magic mushroom

厨 By Chef Sébastien Chevallier

2kg T65 flour

By Chef Martin Lippo

1kg Boiron frozen strawberry purée

房 25g
800g
baking powder
icing sugar
50g Greek yoghurt

百 1kg
10
75g
butter, diced
whole eggs
de cacao, divided
Kalamansi Curd
180g
150g
Boiron kalamansi purée
(each) icing sugar and butter

科 • Sift flour and baking powder into an electric mixer bowl.

180g
10g
whole eggs
corn starch
Add in the icing sugar and mix well. Make a well in
the centre of the flour mixture. Add in the diced butter Fruit Soil
and whole eggs, one at a time and beat well on a high 50g (each) Boiron strawberry frozen purée,
speed with a dough attachment until dough comes mango frozen purée and black currant
together. Divide the dough into 3 portions and mix frozen purée
one portion with 50g de cacao for the dark chocolate
dough and one portion with 25g de cacao for the milk Yoghurt Foam
chocolate dough and keep one plain dough. Wrap the 400g plain natural yoghurt
doughs with aluminim foils and keep chilled for about 2 100g whipping cream (35% fat content)
hours. Roll the chilled doughs out onto a lighlty floured 100g sugar
surface into 60-cm x 40-cm dough sheets. Blast freeze
the doughs until firm. Place the frozen milk chocolate
dough sheet onto a plastic wrap, and top with the
plain dough sheet, and then the dark chocolate dough
sheet. Roll tightly into a log and then cut into 100g discs
and flatten. Place the three-coloured sablé onto a
parchment paper-lined baking tray and bake in a pre-
heated oven at 170°C for about 15 minutes. Makes 30

sticky coconut rice & guava sabayon • For the exotic fruit brochette: Heat 100ml water, castor
By Chef Raymond Blanc sugar, lime juice, herb sprigs, green peppercorns and
the pineapple trimmings in a saucepan over a medium
1 banana, peeled sliced and caramelised heat until sugar has dissolved. Simmer for about 4
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways and scraped minutes and then remove saucepan from the heat. Pour
Guava sabayon, for topping the sugar syrup into a deep baking tray and set aside
Icing sugar, for dusting the sugar syrup to cool. Once cooled, infuse the sugar
1 tsp green peppercorns in brine, rised and drained syrup with the flavourings. Pierce fruit cubes alternately
among wooden skewers and place the skewers back
Extoic Fruit Brochette into the sugar syrup, cover and marinate overnight.
300ml water, divided • For the sticky coconut rice: Cook the soaked rice,
100g castor sugar unsweetened coconut milk and grated palm sugar in
1 lime, juiced a cooking pot over a medium heat to a simmer, stirring
1 (each) basil and Vietnamese mint sprigs frequently until rice grains are soft and sticky. Add in lime
1 tsp green peppercorns in brine, rinsed and drained juice and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Stir well, and
200g Formosa papaya, peeled, deseeded pour the sticky coconut rice into a bowl and set aside
and cubed to cool. Once cooled, cover and refrigerate.
200g Kent mango, peeled, stoned and cubed, • Spoon the sticky coconut rice into each serving bowl.
trimmings reserved for sauce Remove the exotic fruits brochette from the skewers
180g Victoria pineapple, peeled, cored and cubed, and place on top of the sticky coconut rice. Add in
trimmings tied in a muslin the caramelised banana slices and top with guava
2 French kiwi fruits, peeled and cubed sabayon. Dust the icing sugar covering the guava
sabayon completely. Let it settle down and then dust
Sticky Coconut Rice again with icing sugar and then caramelise with a
100g Tilda rice, soaked overnight blowtorch. Serves 4
600ml unsweetened coconut milk
40g palm sugar, grated
½ lime, juiced
A pinch of cayenne pepper

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
• For the kalamansi curd: Heat kalamansi purée, icing

CHEF + RECIPE
sugar and butter in a saucepan over a medium heat
to a boil. Whisk the whole eggs and corn starch in a
mixing bowl until well incorporated. Gradually, add
the whisked whole egg mixture into the hot kalamansi
mixture and heat mixture to a boil again. Remove
saucepan from the heat and set aside the kalamansi
curd to cool. Once cooled, transfer the kalamansi
curd into a piping bag with a nozzle attached and
keep chilled.
• For the fruit soil: Spoon the fruit purées into silicon moulds
and freeze. Fill a cryo-bowl with liquid nitrogen and
grate the frozen fruit purées into the liquid nitrogen
with a microplane. Strain and keep in the blast chiller.
• For the yoghurt foam: Whisk yoghurt and whipping
cream in a canister until light and fluffy. Transfer the
mixture into a soda siphon and attach a N20 capsule.
Keep chilled at 40°C.
• Fill a pipette with Greek yoghurt and pour the strawberry
purée into a container. Fill a cryobowl with liquid
nitrogen. Drop a metallic piping nozzle into the liquid
nitrogen. It will boil and freeze the nozzle completely.
When it stops boiling take the nozzle out and fill it with the
yoghurt foam. Smooth the surface with a spatula and
put the entire nozzle with the yoghurt foam back into
the liquid nitrogen. It will starts to boil again. Take out the
'foot' of the mushroom from the nozzle when it ceases to
boil and freeze. Freeze a ladle into the liquid nitrogen
and dip the base of the ladle into the strawberry purée,
without touching the border and then dip the ladle
with the bottom covered in strawberry purée back
into the liquid nitrogen. Put a few drops of yoghurt with
the pipette to create the spots unto the surface of the
frozen strawberry purée and put it back again into liquid
nitrogen to freeze. Take the semi-sphere out of the ladle
and fill it with the yoghurt foam and smooth the surface
put the frozen 'foot' in the middle of the mushroom. Add
a ladle of liquid nitrogen to freeze rapidly. Place it in the
blast chiller upside down. Makes 20

089
 “ there is simply
no substitute
for real dairy cream”
Ludovic Audaux
Chef Pâtissier, Hôtel St Regis, Dubai

Bavarois aux Fruits Rouges

Top pastry chefs all agree on one thing - they only use real dairy cream.
It has unique whipping and holding qualities needed to create perfect
pastries, as well as that unmistakable, natural creamy taste.

So choose only the finest real dairy cream and achieve excellence in pastry.
 SWEET + HUNT
Valentine’s Day
Of The Orient
When it comes to Valentine’s Day, one might
think of red velvet, strawberries and lots of
chocolate. But how about a beautiful dessert
created with Asian ingredients and flavours
that we are more familiar with? We visit two
cafés and a restaurant, where they show us
how they elevate the flavours of home and
go beyond the norm with their Valentine’s
Day inspired desserts.

091
 Most Singaporeans would be familiar with the
浪 mango and pomelo sago dessert. In Chef Tan take, he
blends fresh mangoes with moscato for a boozy spin.
漫 The sago is made from Granny Smith apples pickled
in roselle for its red colour. Fresh mango sorbet and
甜 lime sorbet are placed on top with mint-infused
winter melon. The pomelo sacs are also tossed with
点 fresh green peppercorns for a light, spicy kick, which
Lee particularly enjoys and comments that it was a
smart play on the dessert. Lastly, Chef Tan presents
us his conceptualisation of a beetroot. The shell is
made out of white chocolate and is filled with a blend
of beetroot and crème fraiche; garnished with Swiss
chard to imitate beetroot leaves. It is served with
bits of pomegranate for crunch, aerated beetroot
chocolate, aerated caramel milk chocolate and a
playful pebble filled with carrot juice. “Chef Tan did a
brilliant job creating this dessert. The flavours could
have been blended better together, but the creativity
was spot on,” is Lee’s final comment on the dessert.

FATCAT beetroot

F ATCAT Ice Cream Bar is a cosy and quaint

dessert bar that specialises in homemade ice
creams. But chef and owner Charles Tan is also
big on plated desserts with a touch of molecular
gastronomy. Along with a taster, Lee Shi Hao
– a former pastry chef of a Michelin-starred
restaurant in Singapore – we have a go at Chef
Tan’ delightful desserts.

Firstly, delicate spheres are presented to us. They

are made up of lime mojito and red wine sangria
spheres, or ‘blood’ spheres. The spheres have
osmanthus added to them for a fresh, Asian
twist. The lime mojito is garnished with lemon
go

balm, which is sourced from a local urban farmer

a
lo s

and beautiful heart-shaped oxalis leaves for the

me

'blood' sphere. “The micro-herb garnish is really

& po
modern and it actually works perfectly with the mango
spheres,” shares Lee. The next dessert is inspired
by Chef Tan's girlfriend. The piña colada is a take
on the popular coconut based cocktail, which
Chef Tan and his girlfriend love. Fresh coconut ice
cream is served atop pineapple granita and pickled
pineapples. The dessert is also bursting with citrus
flavours, which is the result of mandarins. lime mojito & ‘blood’ sphere piña colada

FATCAT Ice Cream Bar | Block 416 Bedok North Avenue 2 #01-25, Singapore 460416 | Tel: (65) 6241 0830
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 SWEET + HUNT
Tucked away in Siglap Drive is FLOR Patisserie, a
dessert café that serves beautiful French desserts
with Japanese influences. Chef Heidi Tan, a
passionate pastry chef, helms the kitchen. Together
with the pastry chef of FATCAT, Johnny Ping as a
taster, we tucked into Chef Tan’s beautifully crafted
desserts. “This year for Valentine’s Day, we decided
to go with a ‘sweet, sour, bitter and spice’ theme, a
metaphorical experience that the Chinese believe
a couple would go through in the course of their
relationship” shares Chef Tan.

For the first dessert – ‘sweet’, she has put together

a vanilla sponge cake that is covered with sweet
potato cream. Ping is surprised to find that the
dessert is wonderfully light and perfectly balanced
on the sweetness. Chef Tan shares that no sugar
was added and relied only on the natural sweetness
of the Japanese sweet potatoes.

crêpe Suzette with yuzu matcha iced sorbet

Next, the ‘bitter’ – matcha iced sorbet is placed

Japanese sweet potato cream with
vanilla sponge cake
into the bowl, along with chestnuts and aduzki
beans for natural sweetness. There is an addition
of honey for a little more sweetness, but it does
not overpower the intense flavour of the matcha,
which is sourced from a farm in Shizuoka, Japan.
The matcha has no cream added, leaving it as pure
as possible, which Ping shares that he enjoys very
much. For the ‘spice’ dessert, there is no chilli or
pepper added, instead it is a shiso leaf-infused
jelly. The shiso leaf lends a mild herbaceous spice
to the dessert, and is well complemented with a
yoghurt sauce on top. “This is a really interesting
take on shiso leaves. The jelly’s texture is very
good and the yoghurt gives a creamy contrast,”
shares Ping. We finally end off with a crêpe Suzette
for the ‘sour’ dessert. The crêpe is cooked in yuzu
juice, sugar and Cointreau; filled generously with
yuzu mousse along with orange segments. We
think it might just be the most refreshing crêpe
Suzette out there, and while Ping prefers the crêpe
to be slightly thinner, he thinks the tart and sweet
flavours are well balanced and the mousse has the
perfect consistency.

FLOR Patisserie | 42 Siglap Drive, Singapore 456167 | Tel: (65) 6243 0813
093
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 Open Farm Community (OFC) has made its name

SWEET + HUNT
for being the first restaurant in Singapore with
an urban farm in its premises. Located within the
greenery of the Dempsey area, the restaurant
creates dishes that focuses a lot on its vegetables
and fruits grown on their farm with familiar local
flavours. Leading the kitchen is Executive Chef
Daniele Sperindio. The dessert philosophy at OFC
is simple – light, refreshing and easy on the palate,
which Chef Sperindio believes would make great
Valentine’s Day desserts as its more fitting to the
climate and local palate. “Many think of chocolate
for a romantic dessert, but that is very heavy.
Here we try to make desserts that are lighter on
the palate. After a romantic dinner, you still want
to be full of energy and not weighed down by a
heavy meal,” shares Chef Sperindio. Our invited
taster for the day was Chef Khoo Wee Bin – who
is the senior culinary trainer at the Asian Culinary
Institute in Singapore.

The first dessert is the pandan and banana custard,

ginger biscuits, lemongrass sago and sugarcane
sorbet. Tapioca sago is infused with lemongrass;
topped off with a banana and pandan-infused
curd as well as sugarcane and lime sorbet for
fresh acidity. The dessert also has a ginger sablé
o n ut

erb (French-style shortbread cookie) for crunch. “This

en h dessert really reminds me of being a child – its
f coc

rd
ga flavours brings back fond memories,” comments
o

&

Chef Khoo. Next is the lemon tart with sweet

res

lly
spic

ar
elaka je

tex
tu

am
c

e basil ice cream. Chantilly cream and lemon curd

ith
ed pumpkin

lised
mango w are generously filled in between plain sablé. Chia
M

seeds with basil oil is drizzled on the side and

gula

topped with vanilla and basil ice cream. Chef Khoo

enjoys the components separately; however feels
,
ca

ew
am

cre
k

i th the dessert for him could have been more balanced

butternut ice
in terms of flavour. Chef Sperindio then presents
us a spiced pumpkin cake, which is crumbled and
served with butternut-pumpkin gelato and gula
Melaka jelly. Chef Khoo prefers the texture of the
cake to be fluffier but loves the idea of gula Melaka
jelly, which added an interesting texture to the
dessert. The final dessert is a caramelised mango,
nicely charred with a side of coconut sago, coconut
meringue, powdered dried coconut and coconut
sorbet. The dessert is simply refreshing if you have
had a rich meal to start with. Chef Khoo is on board
with this dessert, highlighting that the sweetness
lemon tart with was well balanced and would love to bring his wife
sweet basil ice cream for a meal at Open Farm Community. OT

Open Farm Community | 130E Minden Road, Singapore 248819 | Tel: (65) 6471 0306
095
 Demner, Merlicek & Bergmann

Looks small – tastes great at breakfast.

Darbo’s f ine fruit spreads made from choice fruits are also available
March 7th - 10 th, 2017 - Austrian Pavilion,
in miniature as practical portion cups. So your guests can sample all
booth no. 2C01 in Hall 2 delicious varieties available one after the other – and find their favourite.

Sales and distribution: A. Darbo AG, Dornau 18, 6135 Stans/Austria, phone: +43-5242-6951-0, e-mail: export@darbo.at, w w w.darbo.com
 SWEET + PATISSIER
The Asian Pastry Forum
When Great Talents
Come Together

Courtesy of Chef Niklesh Sharma,

managing director of the Academy of
Pastry Arts Malaysia, the team at Cuisine
& Wine Asia flew down to Petaling Jaya to
cover three chefs from the biggest pastry
forum in Asia. Chef Martin Lippo, Chef
Kanjiro Mochizuki and Chef Sébastien
Chevallier share their life experiences and
knowledge with us as well as the paths
they took to get what they are today.

chocolate financier 097

高
手
如
林

plain brioche topped with almond *three-coloured sablè delice d'automne

(From top to bottom): croissant by colour

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM *Recipe refer to page 88

 A Master Viennoiserie Chef

SWEET + PATISSIER
With over 27 years of experience, Chef Sébastien
Chevallier is also the recipient of the coveted
Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) award that
was given to him in 2011. The competition is held
once every four years and it crowns the bearer of
the year – the best in the craft. Chef Chevallier’s
mother was an active cook and having watched
her as a child, was inspired to make gastronomic
consumables that make people happy. “Every day
is different when you’re baking. The feeling of the
dough, the various techniques and the plethora of
combinations make it all very exciting. You can be
as creative as you please,” he says.

It’s a beautiful career. Even if

it’s hard, if we’re passionate,
it’s no longer a big deal to
wake up early – it’s a pleasure.
Sébastien Chevallier

Having once failed his diploma because of

inexperience, Chef Chevallier pushed himself
and studied more, finally succeeding. Proof of
his dedication to the craft is further cemented
when he won Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF).
Rubis “I worked hard for three years to prepare myself
for the prestigious competition. When I was faced
with obstacles, I moved forward and overcame
it. I told myself that the most important thing is
that I can make people happy with just flour and
water.” As imparting knowledge is a passion of
his, he teaches students from as young as 16 the
arts of viennoiserie. He learnt the basics from his
cherished mentor, Deschamps Regis. “Back in the
day, the pioneer generation of chefs will guard
their techniques and recipes, but by doing that,
these prized skills are slowly disappearing. One
needs to teach another for us to preserve what has
been passed down. Our successors have to learn
how to make bread. Social media plays a part in our
generation’s willingness to share,” he tells us. He had
fun teaching the students at the Academy of Pastry
Arts Malaysia. “It was challenging because I have to
adapt myself to the humidity, the ingredients and
the place, but it was fun. Amongst his prized chattel
which he carries with him wherever he goes, are
his knives, a rolling pin, thermometers, testing pins
and the usual pastry essentials.

099
高
手
如
林

If we don’t try new things,

we are practically living in caves.
Martin Lippo
alm

t sponge cake
ond-soufait wit

elnu
h az
hc

'&
ho

ol
ate oa
m
c

& coff t yrof

's
ee foam, milk

Campari-orange-mango
& passion nitro-cocktail

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

Working with liquid nitrogen requires training
on the subject, otherwise it could be dangerous
for the artisan. Once you know how, it will be
as dangerous as boiling water.
Martin Lippo
sweet potato, banana
& coconut
Playing With NO2
“Even Ferran Adrià doesn’t call his food molecular
cooking. I think the term causes a lot of confusion.
What we are doing is just cooking. In Spain,
the chefs are constantly trying to develop new
techniques and new concepts. We try to include
new equipment and tools that haven’t been used
before in haute cuisine,” says Chef Martin Lippo,
45 when we asked him about molecular cooking.
Having started since he was 20, Chef Lippo wasn’t
sure if he wanted to walk the path of a chef. “It
was difficult for me to decide in the beginning. I
was wondering how long it will take for me to get
the knowledge and skills that will certify me as a
chef and not just a cook. Things changed when I
got a call. I then became a partner for a restaurant.
I no longer had to cook what others have decided
– I got to decide what I wanted to cook.” Driven by
the need to leave a legacy behind, he founded his
own school in Barcelona, Spain called Nitroschool
which focuses primarily on liquid nitrogen. “It’s
important for me, even if nobody knows my name.
The knowledge that I transmit to the students of
the school will better the future of my profession.
Vakuum | Passatge de Centelles, 10, 08013 Barcelona
SWEET + PATISSIER
the magic mushroom
NO2 gives us the possibility to come up with so
many things.” The techniques that he demonstrated
for the class while he was in the Academy of Pastry
Arts Malaysia to the students were his own. Nitro-
moulding, nitro-stamps, coulant – nitro, making
frozen liquid-centres for ice creams and making soft-
serve without a machine are among the techniques
that Chef Lippo has created. We then asked him
how he came up with such ideas and techniques.
He replied confidently with, “Once a week, back at
my lab in Spain, my team and I will work on creating
things. But, before one is able to create, one has to
know completely what the oldest and most classic
of techniques and what results are produced by
them. With the basics in mind, you have to watch
and experiment, then only can you come up with
something ‘new’. If you don’t have that, you’ll think
that you’ve invented things and the sad truth is that
you haven’t.” Chef Lippo hopes to foster the curious
minds and negate the opinions of others who think
that what he does is esoteric by teaching all who
are willing to learn.
101
高 专业甜厨的手艺
手 这次受马来西亚 Academy Of Pastry Arts 的邀 如何的设计，这是不切实际的。当你开始懂得
请，专程飞去吉隆坡拍摄采访三位知名甜 如何去烘焙你的糕点时，你才开始慢慢的加入
如 厨在该学院的教课过程。搬了新校社的学院，
拥有了更大的空间，也更据规模。每年学校都
设计元素也不迟。

林 会邀请世界各国的甜厨过来，除了成为客座讲 来自阿根廷的 Martin Lippo 师傅，被誉为是最

师，也培训和考核学生，不单单是理论基础， 俱创意的甜厨。他的分子料理甜品都非常吸
也有实际操作，让学生不会只当一个空有理论 睛，整个教学过程，以轻松又感觉有点在上“
而没有实战经验的烘焙师。 化学”课的方式进行。虽然是阿根廷籍，但他
却在西班牙的巴塞罗那工作。上他的课是件非
这次，我们将采访三位在烘焙界，甜点界鼎鼎 常有趣的事，例如他会展示怎样在真空，速冻
有名的师傅。首先是来自日本的望月完次郎师 或者液態氮的制作方法加在甜品制作上。我觉
傅，他的甜点结合了许多传统文化的精髓，之 得他把香菇照型的甜点制作的非常到位，而且
后加上他自己融会贯通的创意，把许多甜点制 趣味性十足。
成栩栩如生的成品。我们都知道，讲到包装设
计，又或者创新发展，在亚洲地区，日本应该 面包大师 Sébastian Chevalier 展现的是稳健的基
排在前三甲，所以你不难从他的作品中发现这 本概念，烘焙时间的拿捏相当讲究。师傅分享
一点。他告诉我们，回到最初，最原始的起点 到，他希望他的手艺能够传承，把最顶级的烘
是最重要的，在教课时，他会问学生，当你连 焙与学生分享。这次能来到吉隆坡与他们近距
最基本的酵母都不了解，只有空谈你的甜点要 离接触，我想这是值得的。志偉

dragon ball

éclair

soleil

Don’t complain when it’s dark,

work on making it bright.
Kanjiro Mochizuki
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

From Copycat To Creator
Chef Kanjiro Mochizuki had grand plans to
become a French cuisine chef. His ambition took
a turn when while he was waiting on tables and
he chanced upon the most aesthetically stunning
sugar showpiece during then and just like that,
his road to the pastry world was paved. He shares
with us, “I got to experience making fine things
as my mother was a kimono printer and also an
ikebana teacher. I also think that because of that,
I would be a better pastry chef than a cook.” There
was a significant boom during his time for pastry
chefs in Japan. There were numerous interviews
and TV shows that fed the idea that being a pastry
chef was a good occupation for young adults to
have. Chef Mochizuki joined Imperial Hotel in
Tokyo during the era when they were rather
conservative and reserved. He sighs, “There was a
depressing period of ten years when I would make
pastry showpieces only to break them each time. I
wasn’t allowed to compete.
Imperial Hotel, Tokyo (Teikoku Hotel)
1-1, Uchisaiwai-cho 1-chome, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-8558, Japan | Tel: (81) 3 3504 1111
I was envious of my friends who all have their own
SWEET + PATISSIER
medals and trophies to account for their effort. I
think this experience made me stronger.” Having
said that, Chef Mochizuki feels that he was in a good
working environment, having received guidance
from his wise mentors, and used that time to learn
English and improve himself. He has a strong, good
relationship with the grand chef of Imperial Hotel,
Tanaka Kenichiro. Together, they would go places –
a duo proficient in both savoury and sweet.
A fine day arrived when Chef Mochizuki was finally
granted permission to compete in the coupe du
monde de la patisserie after finishing his studies at
the Culinary Institute Of America (CIA) for a year.
His victory and tenacity secured him the position as
team captain for Japan when he led the Japanese
team to Italy and America. “I started to compete,
and then my career jumpstarted.”
forest
When it comes to creating, Chef Mochizuki’s astute
sense of flavour etches whatever he tastes into
memory. He’ll combine the flavours and textures in
his brain. At the CIA, he learnt the basic formulae
and ratios for desserts. “Without a basic technique,
you can’t create anything. During my time, we all
had to manabu (copy) the recipes from our seniors
with difficulty. There is a Japanese saying, "noren
o mamoru" which loosely means 'protect the
name'. But now, we all share. If you feel empty by
sharing, then learn more.” Chef Mochizuki faced
more problems with people than with the creating
of new desserts. With over 80 people in the pastry
department, he has his hands full. “It’s like a city
and we have to coordinate well. After many years,
we’ve built a great team. If I open up my own
pastry shop one day, chances like coming to the
Asian Pastry Forum would be limited. But maybe in
the future, I’ll do something.” DD
103
千
出
i t ion & Innova
人
rad tion
心 T
is
ap
hl
kue
a n
nd
pa
n
io
us
ffo
ch
tou

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 SWEET + BAKE
ivory bar kueh lapis

It has been openly acknowledged that Mandarin Oriental Singapore holds one of the most talented groups
of pastry chefs in Singapore. This is why the team at Cuisine & Wine Asia included them in the list of
places to approach for this segment. The task we had this time was a bit more daunting – is there an easy
modern way to do the layer cake locally known as kek/kueh lapis that we all love? The creative team at
Mandarin Oriental however, had their ideas and despite being flooded with events, worked this into their
busy schedule. Chef Kent Ng Kok Keong – the assistant pastry chef shows us, Joyce Li – the assistant public
relations manager and three students from Institute of Technical Education (ITE) – Hafizhan Nonis, Emily
Soh Pei Qi and Lee Yik Thiam how he transforms what we know and takes it into another stratosphere.

105
 Touch Of Fusion Chocolate Ganache
千 Pandan Kueh Lapis Chef Ng pours the cream, sugar and glucose into
a saucepan and heats it over a medium heat.
出 Pandan Soufflé Sponge
Pandan leaves are rinsed well by Hafizhan Nonis
Once the sugar dissolves, he pours it over the
chocolate tropilia while Lee stirs the mixture until

人 to remove the grit before being dried thoroughly.

The pandan leaves are blended with 500ml of
the temperature reaches 40°C. At this temperature
Chef Ng then adds in the softened butter. We want
milk and then set aside to infuse. He then straines to prevent the butter from splitting, so that the
心 the pandan infused milk and cooks one portion
with butter until the mixture starts to bubble.
ganache will not be lumpy. We want a smooth and
velvety ganache with a creamy mouthfeel,” Chef
Flour is added and cooked until its starts to come Ng explains to us why he adds the butter at 40°C.
together and doesn’t stick to the saucepan. He
then transfers the mixture into a mixing bowl. Chef
Kent Ng adds in 120ml of the pandan infused milk
and eggs portion by portion while Nonis whisks it.
Meanwhile, Lee Yik Thiam prepares a meringue
with the sugar and egg whites. Nonis then proceeds
to gently fold the meringue into the green coloured
batter. The resulting pandan batter is spread evenly
onto a baking tray and baked in a pre-heated oven
at 170°C for about 15 minutes. Once it is done, Lee
helps to unmould the pandan soufflé sponge and
sets it aside to cool.
Assembly
Chef Ng spreads the warm chocolate ganache unto
the pandan soufflé sponge at the same time explains
to Nonis how to spread it evenly over the large
surface. “Each layer has to be evened out carefully
or the end product will not be symmetrical.” Nonis
then chilles the chocolate ganache coated pandan
soufflé sponge. Once chilled, Soh proceeds to
spread the palm sugar masala cremeux on top
of the chilled chocolate ganache pandan soufflé
Palm Sugar Masala Cremeux sponge and then chills it again.
Traditionally, kueh lapis is flavoured with a light
spice mix. “I used the masala mix created by our Li tells us that we’re in for a surprise. At that
Indian chef Santosh Kumar. His secret blend which point, we really were curious. How is this pandan
is part of the cremeux will uplift the entire taste soufflé sponge going to resemble a kueh lapis?
of the pandan soufflé sponge.” Soh Pei Qi pours Chef Ng takes a ruler out. He proceeds to cut the
the cream into a saucepan and heats it over a pandan soufflé sponge into strips and wraps each
medium-high heat. She adds in the chopped palm strip around the ring cutter till he reaches the last
sugar, masala and salt and cooking the mixture pandan soufflé sponge strip, cutting off any excess
until the palm sugar dissolves, Chef Ng tells her to each time. He then takes a blowtorch and torches
lower the heat to medium, and then add in the egg the inner ring, warming the first layer of cremeux.
yolks. She whisks constantly, making sure that the The end product resembles a baumkuchen – the
egg yolks are mixed well and has thickened. When German equivalent of kueh lapis.
the temperature reaches 85°C, she turns off the
heat. Chef Ng adds in the bloomed gelatine while
Soh whisks. When the temperature finally reaches
40°C, Chef Ng adds in softened butter as Soh
whisks vigorously. A sheet of cling film is pressed
over the palm sugar masala cremeux to prevent a
skin from forming.
Baking Time
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 SWEET + BAKE
Ivory Bar Kueh Lapis
The second recipe is done the painstakingly
traditional way. “We must not forget the traditional
way of making kueh lapis. It is how it was started.
Lee spent a lot of time last night practicing this. So
I think he’s capable of showing us how it’s done.”
Chef Ng chuckles. Lee creams the butter and sugar
until it becomes fluffy. Nonis helps to add in the
egg yolks and condensed milk while Soh prepares
a lightly salted meringue.

Lee then mixes the flour in before gently folding in

Chef Kent Ng shows Hafizhan Nonis how to coat
the pandan sponge in the chocolate ganache.
butter salt
the meringue. The batter is then complete. Chef
Ng uses thick mittens to remove the cake ring from
the oven. Lee pours in a ladle of batter and spreads
it around. We hear a sizzle as the batter touches
the hot metal. Chef Ng tells Lee to explain to us
the purpose of using a pre-heated cake ring. “The
batter sets quickly. We use a high temperature
of 230°C on the top deck of the oven to brown
the top layer. The below deck is turned off as we
only want to bake the top layer only or else the
cake will dry out. There’s also a small amount of
evaporated water in the oven to keep the cake
moist.” The first layer is done and Soh goes for the
second layer. The process is repeated alternately
by the three students till the batter runs out. The
cake is then taken out, cooled slightly and then
Chef Ng slices it evenly. He then tells the students
to dip a slice of cake first into the melted white
chocolate and then dip into desiccated coconut,
making a delicious ‘ivory bar kueh lapis’. We must
say, we are impressed by how Chef Ng tackles this
delicious challange. Wouldn't you agree? DD

canola oil
sugar egg yolk

condensed cake flour & Baking Time

milk masala mix
egg

Kek lapis is simple and rather

straightforward. All we need to do
is pay attention to the details
– practice makes perfect.
Kent Ng Kok Keong

107
千
出
人
心

Pastry is challenging
Pastry wasn’t my first choice, and I love challenges.
but it was my best. Lee Yik Thiam
Hafizhan Nonis

The magic of pastry

comes from the heart.
Emily Soh Pei Qi

细节决定成败得失
在 蒙蒙细雨的午后，来到了新加坡《文华
东方酒店》，走进酒店，仿佛回到了第
二个家，熟悉的“味道”，还有熟悉的环境，
在这个“外貌协会”当道的年代，倘若你在咖
啡馆点个传统的千层蛋糕，加上一杯拿铁，再
拿着一本书籍，画面很美，但传统的蛋糕却有
更重要的是熟悉的面孔。当然回味了一翻，工 点各各不入的感觉，小逊了一些。但，如果是
作还是要继续的……今天我们找了酒店其中一 把“传统”这两个字拿出来，换上吴老师的创
位人气甜厨~吴国强师傅来教我们如何制作看似 意千层蛋糕，整个画面就立马不再一样。
简单，但步骤繁琐的创意千层蛋糕。吴老师亲
自授课，当然有许多学生抢着来学习，但基于 吴老师告诉我们，传统没有什么不好，没有传
我们杂志的宗旨，在这个单元里只能有三位学 统的基础，你要创什么新呢？我觉得这话很
生可以参与，所以这次幸运被选上的是在文华 有道理，就像一些人认为传统不好，跟不上时
东方酒店的实习生，而这三位学生都来自新加 代，没有创意，不过如果没有“以前”，怎么
坡工艺教育学院。三位学生分别是李镒添，苏 会有“现在”？保留传统的口味，加上现代的
佩琦和 Hafizhan Nonis 同学。 结合，这才叫完美，总是想丢掉传统的人，也
许他的创新也不会有多大的“新”意。
你也许会和我一样，觉得千层蛋糕是种很传统
的糕点，年轻人也不怎么会欣赏这种“南洋” 制作千层蛋糕虽然简单，和一层不变的步骤，
风的甜点。当然吴老师了解这点，因为他也很 但吴老师还是认为，即便你的鸡蛋是从冰箱
年轻，所以完全了解时下年轻人的“口味” 里拿出来或者是室温拿出来，把蛋打进去，都
。他解释到，有时候并非传统不好，只是现在 会影响整个蛋糕的口感，这就是所谓的掌握细
的人都被媒体和网络给影响，最重要的是眼睛 节，才能掌控未来。希望吴老师的细心教导，
被“宠”坏了。他偷瞄了我一眼，然后笑着 能够成就更多未来的接班人。志偉
说，摄影师是“帮凶”……哈哈哈哈！果然不
错，也许和吴老师是好朋友，所以彼此嘲讽也
是我们其中一种沟通方式。

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM Mandarin Oriental, Sinagpore | 5 Raffles Avenue, Marina Square, Singapore 039797
 Go + EvEnt
A
Latino
Affair
IL 2017
PR
6A

H -1
20 MARC
109
峰
会
晚
宴
Mrs & Mr Benson Teo & Siu Bee Knipp

I’m always impressed with

World Gourmet Summit - its standard
is absolutely excellent even after
20 years. This is my first time trying
Mexican cuisine and it is really pushing
the standard to world class.
The tuna with the chilli
champagne sabrage and sauce was great. The lobster tacos
were impeccable too.
Jansen Ek

16 November 2016 – World Gourmet Summit

marked its first fringe event for 2017. Held
at Mexican restaurant El Mero Mero in CHIJMES,
it was a night of much laughter and merrymaking.
It was in collaboration with VST ECS, one of Asia’s
leading information and technology products and
service providers. President of VST ECS, Sebastian
Chong had gathered his closest friends in the IT
industry, along with valued business partners and
associates for a night out. Reaching out to the Ala
Guests beginning their night with a glass of champagne.
Carte Production team, Chong knew he was going
to be in good hands. “I have known Peter Knipp for
a long time, and if anyone should need help with
food and beverage he is definitely the person to
look for!”

The evening began with the arrival of guests,

Paul Henaghan, president of EMC & Sebastian Chong
catching up over more champagne.
WWW.ASIACUISInE.CoM
where Chris Larumbe’s Latino band serenaded
while many old friends caught up with one another.
An introduction was given by Chong, followed by a
champagne sabrage by Knipp himself and selected
guests. Everyone was then treated to an exciting
tequila tasting led by the team of El Mero Mero,
where the guests were given brief notes on tequila
and its origins.
 Go + EvEnt
o
r tac
bste
lo

err
raspb y & cho
th
wi co

lat
cak

e
coconut
The happy faces of the invited guests.

El Mero Mero’s kitchen is helmed by Chef Dylan

Cheong; and together with his team, created a
menu that left nothing but satisfaction. For the
appetiser, guests were served a blue fin tuna with
guajillo chilli, garlic oil and micro sakura. It was Chef
Cheong’s take on a Mexican classic ceviche with an
Asian twist by using sashimi-grade fish.
ng

The Farnese Fantini Pinot Grigio Terre degli eo

Ch
Dylan
Osci IGT, was served alongside as its refreshing
lightness complemented the spiciness of the
appetiser. For the next appetiser, guests were
presented a grilled scallop with a side of habanero
gel for the sauce, guacamole and mango pico de
gallo for extra sweetness, as compared to the
traditional tomatoes. The scallop was simply pan-
seared with only oil and salt to keep the dish light
and palatable. The first wine served with this dish
was Bottega’s Prosecco Millesimato Brut, keeping
the palate refreshed along with the second wine,
Farnese Fantini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Lobster Jansen Ek, Sebastian Chong, Flora Loh & Khim of Top Wines
tacos were rolled out as the last of the appetisers. with friends in the IT industry.
It came with a chipotle sauce for a burst of smoky
flavour, chicharrón for crunch in a squid ink tortilla.
111
 “You cannot find squid ink tortilla anywhere else

峰 in town, it is definitely unique to El Mero Mero,”

Chef Cheong shared. G H Mumm Cordon Rogue

会 was paired with this dish. The champagne had an

intensity that packed more flavour with the smoky
flavours of the lobster, while still maintaining a
晚 subtle freshness. Red wine was also paired with
this dish – a 2014 Judeka Cerasuolo di Vittoria that
宴 boasted of bright fruity aromas. The highlight of
the night came when Chef Cheong presented his
wagyu beef tenderloin with wild mushrooms and
a classically Mexican mole Negro sauce. The beef
had the perfect melt-in-your-mouth feel, and many The sabrage continues.
may not be aware that mole Negro is chocolate-
based, which lent a beautiful semi-sweet flavour to Guests smile for the camera as they await their dinner.
the entire dish. The 2007 Terra Andina Suyai and
2004 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de
Lalande were the wine pairings of this dish. Both
wines are full-bodied with rich berry flavours to
complement the beef perfectly. With such delicious
and rich flavours, Chef Cheong decided he would
go with a refreshing dessert that brought in several
classic Mexican ingredients. A trio of sorbets were
finally served – prickly pear, lime and mango that
sat beautifully on top of aloe vera in chilled hibiscus nt
ta Fa
tea. OT heri
g

a
M
I absolutely loved the beef. It was really tender and the mole sauce
was nothing like I’ve tried before. I think tonight was a success.
I thought the concept was something different
with Mexican food that many may not think of.
Magherita Fant, Ferrari Foods & Wine

After sabrage, Terence Kang received a certificate of

Saint Moritz Topless Champagne Club, Singapore Chapter.
WWW.ASIACUISInE.CoM
 Go + event
Travelling Argentine Feast

With an estimated
population of 43,417,000
people, and Argentina being
the land that received the second
biggest immigration influx during the
19th and 20th centuries, one can only
imagine the cuisine’s essence. The multicultural
country with significant European influences is
imprinted upon by many races, primarily the Spaniards
and Italians. The residents of Singapore received a great
opportunity to discover Argentine cuisine when boCHINche
decided to host a team of Argentinian chefs during October 2016 for
three spectacular nights of gastronomic delights and wine.

113
 Diego Jacquet
群 Chef Diego Jacquet came up with the
original idea, as he wanted to create a link
厨 between Argentine chefs in Argentina
and those settled around the world.
汇 He also wanted to create an open platform
for writers, winemakers, producers,
集 food and wine critics and people from the
industry to share and promote Argentine
cuisine. I believe I speak for all of us
when I say that we were thrilled to be
invited to be part of the
COMILONA experience.
Pablo del Rio Pablo Del Rio

Agu
st

in
a de A l ba
*Photography by Kerlyn Tan

“al carbon”
anadas
p
k em
an
f
ef
*b e

Our products are so diverse

and different from one another
– you can have the best king
crabs in the south and the best
tropical fruits in the
northeast of Argentina.
Martin Baquero Martin Baquero
WWW.ASIACUISIne.CoM *Recipes refer to page 82
 Go + event
Fernand
o

Na
vas
The future of Argentinean cuisine
Martin Molteni has yet to be written –
it is a constant progress;
am

we are still learning and constantly

oil & basil ice cre

getting to know new produce.

The future has no limits but
etti we need to keep working hard
h to push our cause!
c

Hernan Luchetti
Hernan Lu
illa
van
o,
at

m
to
e,
burr
ata , caramel
sauc
Federico Heinzmann

Traditional cuisine in
Argentina uses just a few
ingredients and is very
attached to our immigration
backgrounds. On the other
hand, modern trends explore
a wider variety of different
produce and are not as limited.
Soledad Nardelli

Soledad Nardelli
115
群
厨
汇
集

yu
be
sea

ym

ss
b

,q sp
a

u in cri
o a, i&
pepper from C ac h

We’ve travelled through Argentina before

– Mendoza, Bueno Aires. The idea of so
many talented Argentinian chefs coming
together to cook in Singapore was too
much to miss. It’s my husband’s birthday
and he’s from Uruguay, South America.
So I wanted to find something that was
South American and would appeal
to him to him too.
And this is all very interesting.
Mrs & Mr John Ferreira

WWW.ASIACUISIne.CoM
S even chefs and one sommelier flew in from Eight Chefs & One Sommelier

their respective restaurants across the globe,
with the invaluable generosity and encouragement
of National Institute Of Tourism Promotion Of
Argentina (INPROTUR) to Singapore for the
festival. When asked about how he came up with
the concept of an annual nomadic food festival
Chef Diego Jacquet says, “I came up with the
idea as I felt that it was a necessity to get closer
to Argentina. I’m an expert on a professional and
personal basis. ” The patron chef of boCHINche and
ZOILO is no stranger to collaborating with other
chefs to create fun, unique experiences. He wanted
to do something more meaningful, and thus had
the idea to gather Argentine chefs from all over the
world to share their level of professionalism, ideas,
produce and knowledge of Argentine food. “We all
have the same goal – to promote, learn about and
continuously develop Argentine cuisine. A nomadic
event held once a year around the world that
belongs to every single one of us,” elaborates Chef
Jacquet. He brought together: Soledad Nardelli
of Chila, Martin Baquero – the chef of the year in
2011, Hernan Luchetti of El Celler de Can Roca,
Martin Molteni of Puratierra, Federico Heinzmann
of Park Hyatt, Tokyo, Pablo del Rio from Sieste
Cocinas en Mendoza, Fernando Nacas of Balvnera
and the knowledgeable Agustina de Alba who has
been anointed as Argentina’s top sommelier twice.
Go + event
When you’ve got eight brilliant chefs coming
together as a team, you can imagine the hurdles
they’ll have to pass to work as one. Chef
Heinzmann comments, “Food is the tastiest
excuse you have to make a team. It’s always
interesting working with different sets of views.
It becomes an enriching relationship when you
respect one another. Criticism is always there
– you just have to recognise which is helping
you and which is not.” Chef Molteni echoes his
opion, “We’re at a stage in life where we want
to make things work out. We know the game
gets better if we play together. The objective
here is to showcase our country’s cuisine.” Chef
Jacquet on the other hand shares with us, “It’s
always a challenge logistically when dealing with
various parties. All of them are here, dedicating
their time when they could be spending the
time with their loved ones. It symbolises
the professionalism and commitment these
individuals have towards our food’s identity.
Also, we don’t feel threatened when someone
comments on our cooking. We want it. It allows
us to learn and thus improve.” De Alba’s task was
to choose the wines from the different regions
that will enhance the produce and techniques
used by the chefs producing a symphony of
Argentina’s best.

I guess Argentine cuisine is a bit

underrated all this while so that’s why I
should give it a try. They’re not so well
exposed in many parts of the world.
So I think it’s a good opportunity for
them to have it in Singapore as well as for
me to try out Argentine cuisine.
It’ll probably be good.
Jason Wong:

117
 Cocina Argentina:
群 The Cuisine Not Set In Stone
“The combination and complexities of our history
厨 makes Argentine food different. We’ve got the
influences from our own origins peppered with
汇 influences from the immigrants. We’re definitely
blessed in terms of diversity and versatility. The
集 regions differ with their own produce.” Chef
Jacquet says when we asked about what makes
Argentine food different from other cuisines. Chef
Heinzmann agrees, “We don’t know who we are –
so we are searching and creating. We are working
with new products from new places but with our
knowledge and tastes. It’s really interesting to be
a chef in a place where there’s influences from
all over the place. It’s how we cook, not what we
cook.” Chef Molteni nods here and adds on, “We
are trying to learn how to use the native produce.
Also the presence of meat is so strong in Argentina.
We eat every part of the cow, for example.”
The COMILONA team was a group of
almost 15 individuals, so obviously there
are always challenges and obstacles but
everyone involved are true professionals
of the trade and any problems faced were
resolved rapidly. Overall,
it was an immense pleasure to work
together for COMILONA.
Fernando Navas
Everyone holding up character attributes that represents them.
WWW.ASIACUISIne.CoM
The Future: Making An Identity
With all that in mind, we asked the three chefs
what the future or Argentine cuisine holds. Chef
Heinzmann says, “The good thing here is that we
have a future. We want to believe in something
and that means a lot for us as chefs. People like
our food and our style. That itself empowers us
to look at things differently.” Chef Molteni replies
with, “Some years ago, it was all about meat,
but now we are showcasing more local produce
and traditions. We have so many things to show
and we’re going to work at it.” Chef Jacquet
comes up with, “The future is brightly filled with
infinite possiblitites. We’re paving a path for the
generation behind us. We’re embracing ourselves;
we know who we are and what we want. There’s
nothing more than that.”
COMILONA 2016 in Singapore this year was an
overwhelming success due to the press and all
the interest they received. They were fully booked
and had to turn down quite a number of guests!
We asked Chef Jacquet to give us hints about
COMILONA 2017 and he said that it will happen in
London, likely in May. The team hopes to showcase
more local produce with the possibility of a forum
in Buenos Aires where the chefs will debate about
Argentine cuisine. So, keep a lookout for this in
2017! DD
 GO + ITALY
Romagna Mia
Rimini A Taste Of La Dolce Vita In
Northeastern Italy

* Photography courtesy of Kurt Ganapathy.

From the packed stands of Stadio Dino Manuzzi in Cesena to the paper placemats in a restaurant in Rimini, the
lyrics of Secondo Casadei’s 1954 song “Romagna Mia” are fondly remembered in the eastern portion of Emilia-
Romagna. “Romagna, Romagna mia; lontan da te, non si puo’ star,” the words go – “Romagna, my Romagna;
far from you, one cannot stay”. Indeed, Romagna has had an effect on the likes of Leonardo da Vinci, Pope
John Paul II and of course, the land’s most famous son, Federico Fellini. Best known for his 1960 Palme d’Or-
winning film La Dolce Vita, Fellini never forgot the days of his youth in Romagna and revisited his hometown
of Rimini in the 1973 film Amarcord. Rimini, then, is the perfect place to begin my journey. One year on from
my visit to Emilia, I returned to travel across Romagna at the invitation of Emilia Romagna Tourism.

Where To Stay
Duomo Hotel, Rimini
www.duomohotel.com
Hotel Il Villino, Santarcangelo di Romagna
www.hotelilvillino.it

The Guard of the Rock, San Marino. Mondaino 119

Happily ever after.
Make your kitchen life a fairy tale, putting a magic wand
in your hands to get any recipe you want, cooked the way
you want.
Phone: +65 6727 2057
E-mail: professional.sea@electrolux.com
www.electrolux.com.sg/professional

Romagna DOC sangiovese
Revelling In Rimini
Set on the Adriatic Sea, Rimini is a city that’s
long been a popular beach retreat. While it’s
perhaps most famous for its nightclubs, I instead
spend my time in Rimini’s historic inland centre,
crossing the 2,000-year-old Bridge of Tiberius,
strolling through the old fishing village of Borgo
San Giuliano and watching as the bars and cafés
of Piazzetta Gregorio da Rimini come to life in the
early evening. Eventually, I settle down to dinner at
seafood restaurant Il Pescato del Canevone (www.
ilpescatodelcanevone.it). From a menu that varies
with the catch of the day, I tuck into the sardoncini
fritti con la Tropea (fried sardines), gnocchi con
calamari e bottarga (squid and salted fish roe
gnocchi) and fagiolini saltati con calamari fischioni
(green beans sautéed with squid).
GO + ITALY
Fossa pecorino cheese –
or pit cheese –
is produced according
to a technique that
dates back to the 15th century.
Cheese Of The Pit
Early on my second day in Romagna, I make my
way up to the hilltop village of Mondaino where
a unique type of cheese awaits. Fossa pecorino
cheese – or pit cheese – is produced according to
a technique that dates back to the 15th century.
Made with sheep or cow’s milk, or a combination
of the two, fossa cheese is seasoned for three
months before it is sealed in a deep pit for a
further three months. As it ferments – a process
likened to spending time in purgatory envisioned
by Dante Alighieri – the flavours of the cheese
concentrate, growing in richness and complexity.
Brothers Emanuele and Michele Chiaretti of Porta
di Sotto (www.portadisotto.it) are the caretakers
of this time-honoured tradition in Mondaino.
They use 400-year-old pits that were discovered
by chance when their parents renovated the
property in 2003.
For accompaniment, restaurant manager – and
accomplished photographer – Christian Zanzani
opens a bottle of Salinae, an aromatic and spicy
craft beer brewed with sale di Cervia; known
locally as “sweet” salt. The quality of Italian craft
beer, or birra artigianale, is no secret among beer
lovers, and Salinae is up there with Baladin and
32 Via dei Birrai. You’d be hard pressed to find
another beer or wine as perfectly suited for rustic
Italian seafood. As a digestif, a glass of Riviera Gin is
served on the rocks with a colourful array of berries
and citrus peels. The first gin in Italy distilled from
grapes, Riviera is made in Tuscany for a Rimini-
based company and is driven by botanicals like
elderflower, coriander and bergamot.
121
 Olive Oil Philosophy
意 From Mondaino, it’s a short drive to the
neighbouring comune of Montegridolfo, where
大 olive groves form the foreground of breathtaking
views of the Adriatic. It’s here that I meet Cleto
利 Renzi, the owner of Agriturismo Ripabottina (www.
agriturismoripabottina.it). The Renzi family has
resided in Montegridolfo for seven generations
记 and they took over their current olive grove in
1996. Walking through the grove, Renzi points out
individual gnarled trees that were planted more
than 800 years ago and offers words of wisdom
gleaned from a lifetime on these slopes. Olive trees
know how to wait, he tells me – even if abandoned
for years, they can be nurtured to produce fruit
once again. Olive groves, he shares, are much like
Italy’s ancient cities – they regenerate and remain
alive with time seemingly inconsequential. Back
at Ripabottina’s farmhouse, Renzi explains how
to taste good olive oil. Pouring the oil into a small
cup and covering it with your palm, you swirl the
oil before assessing its aromas, then you take a sip
and slurp the oil with plenty of air, allowing it to
coat your tongue.
Cleto Renzi
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
With this technique, defects are easy to identify –
the crayon-like smell of rancid oil that’s too old, the
dankness of fusty oil made from olives that were
left to sit too long before pressing and the tang of
oil allowed to ferment with oxygen. None of those
defects are found in the Renzi family’s olive oil,
of course. Renzi says that olive oil is best enjoyed
when it is vibrant and young, though a year will
allow you to see how its flavours evolve. Good olive
oil will taste different in every season, he explains
– cabbage, artichokes and fava beans in spring,
tomatoes in summer and almonds in autumn.
Holding On To Summer
It’s nearing the end of summer and a few
beachgoers are clinging to the last warm days
of the season in Rimini. I stop for lunch at Dalla
Saraghina (www.dallasaraghina.it), a trattoria
across the road from the umbrellas and sunbeds.
I savour a jug of sparkling Pignoletto from Cantina
dei Colli Romagnoli – poured from a tap – paired
with a squid, zucchini and sale di Cervia salad,
spaghettoni poveraccio (spaghettoni with clams)
and passatelli (a local breadcrumb-based pasta) in
a seafood ragu. It’s the perfect combination for a
day in the sun.
Olive oil tasting at Agriturismo Ripabottina.
 GO + ITALY
While Emilia is dominated by
lambrusco, Romagna is very much
the land of sangiovese.

Le Rocche Malatestiane cellar The wines of Le Rocche Malatestiane.

The Fortresses Of The Malatestas

The landscape in and around Rimini is dotted
with towering medieval fortifications and grand
old churches. They are the lasting legacy of the
Malatesta family that ruled the area from 1295
to 1500. Fittingly, their family name is also given
to a company that produces wine in the hills of
Rimini, the eastern end of the Romagna DOC.
Drawing on 500 winegrowers across 800 hectares
of vineyards, Le Rocche Malatestiane (www.
lerocchemalatestiane.it) is a standard bearer
of the province. While Emilia is dominated by
lambrusco, Romagna is very much the land of
sangiovese. Visiting their offices in Santarcangelo
di Romagna, I learn that the wines of Le Rocche
Malatestiane’s premium Terre dei Malatesta range
are divided by three terroirs. There is Verucchio,
with loose sandy soil at 300 metres above sea
level where cool sea breezes blow at night;
Coriano, with grey clay soil and high temperatures
in the summer; and Gemmano-San Clemente,
with tinted clay and chalk soil at a height of 250
metres above sea level.
Tre Miracoli is typical of Verucchio wines, elegant
with prominent minerality and lively acidity. From
Gemmano-San Clemente, there is I Diavoli, a more
fruit-driven wine with well-rounded tannins. And
completing the trio is Sigismondo, named after
one of the legendary members of the Malatesta
family. A powerful wine with robust structure,
Sigismondo represents Coriano, regarded as the
zone which best encapsulates Rimini sangiovese.
Coriano is also the source of the fruit that goes
into Mons Jovis, a lavish, perfectly balanced
sangiovese with touches of vanilla and flowers.
Only produced in good years, Mons Jovis spends
a minimum of 18 months in oak barrels and six
months in bottles in Le Rocche Malatestiane’s
caves in Santarcangelo di Romagna. It comes into
its own just down the road at the aptly-named
osteria La Sangiovesa (www.sangiovesa.it), pairing
with a selection of cured ham, salami, rolled bacon
and seasoned lard, and the top quality testarda
coppa served with piadina (traditional flatbread).
123
 The Temple Of Sangiovese
意 Following on from the in-depth introduction to
Romagna sangiovese, day three takes me to a
大 relatively new addition to San Clemente – an estate
described to me as a temple of sangiovese. Tenuta
利 Mara (www.tenutamara.com) was founded in
2000 by Giordano Emendatori, a man who made
记 his fortune in gelato. Tenuta Mara is named after,
and inspired by, Emendatori’s wife, Mara. Right
from the beginning when searching for a site for
their estate, biodynamic principles were at the
core of everything they did. Planting sangiovese
clones from Montalcino, of Brunello di Montalcino
fame, the Emendatoris wanted to go big with their
wine. Tenuta Mara favours non-interventional
methods, and they strive to do as little as possible
to stand in nature’s way, preferring to leave most
of the work to the microorganisms and native
wildlife of the local ecosystem. One interesting
choice of intervention comes with a sloping parcel
of land that faces warmer winds than the rest of
the property. In an effort to bring the best out of
these vines, Bose speakers have been installed on
either side to play classical music throughout the
day. Commercial director Davide Marino tells me
of the noticeable difference in yields.
Sangiovese grapes
Malatestiana Library
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
Careful pruning is a way of life and only the
best grapes will go into the wine produced here
– Maramia. Harvested by hand and allowed to
undergo spontaneous fermentation with natural
yeasts, the wine is guided towards excellence first
in the oak and concrete tanks of the vat room and
then in the underground sanctuary that is the
Tenuta Mara cellar where Gregorian chants can
be heard as you enter. After 12 months in French
oak here, the estate’s three winemakers each
craft a blend. The “winner” is selected in a blind
tasting by Mara Emendatori herself. The wine is
finally bottled as Maramia and allowed to rest for
a further six months before release. After what is
nothing short of a religious production process,
Maramia is a heavenly wine; one of the great
expressions of sangiovese anywhere. Cherries
and spices like ginger and star anise dance with
sprightly acidity. It’s so elegant that you have to
slow your approach, yet so enticing that you can’t
put it down.
A Pope, A President & An Emperor
We take a break for lunch in Cesena, where a
meal of tagliatelle con ragu di porcini and beef
tenderloin with sale di Cervia is enhanced with
another birra artigianale – Viola Bionda from
the neighbouring town of Cattolica – at Osteria
Michiletta (www.osteriamichiletta.com). After a
tour of the historic Malatestiana Library, we are
on our way to Bertinoro and an icon of Romagna
sangiovese, Fattoria Paradiso. Founded by Mario
Pezzi on a hill that’s been known for its wine since
at least the 15th century, Fattoria Paradiso made
history in the early 1970s when they released the
first ever reserve sangiovese.
After what is nothing short
of a religious production
process, Maramia is
a heavenly wine.
Leonardo Pironi & Davide Marino

cappelleti al ragu, Osteria Enoteca Ca’ de Bè
1976 bottling of
sous vide coppa di maiale and costolette di
Fattoria Paradiso Barbarossa
maiale, Osteria Enoteca Ca’ de Bè
Today, the estate is run by Pezzi’s daughter Graziella
and grandson Jacopo Melia. Vigna delle Lepri, as
the reserve sangiovese came to be called, is still
part of the core range here, along with one very
special wine. Outside the main building, plaques
commemorate the visits of Pope John Paul II and
American President Ronald Reagan, but another
name is often heard at Fattoria Paradiso – that of
the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I, better known
as Barbarossa. Barbarossa visited Bertinoro in 1177
and when Mario Pezzi discovered a previously
unknown grape variety growing on their property
in the 1950s, they decided to name it after him.
Dark cherries, mint, eucalyptus and balsamic notes
abound in the singular Il Dosso, a 100 percent
Barbarossa wine, which spends 16 to 18 months
ageing in a mixture of oak and concrete before
bottling (and a further six months in bottles prior
to release). As the sun sets, we see another face
of sangiovese over dinner at Osteria Enoteca Ca’
de Bè (www.cadebe.it). Tenuta Casali’s Villa Zapi
Brut is a crystal clear, sparkling white sangiovese,
made possible by immediate destemming and
soft pressing after harvest. With the character of
Blanc de Noirs champagne, it pairs well with a
local creamy cheese called squacquerone. At the
osteria, we also get acquainted with Albana di
Romagna, one of just two DOCG wines from Emilia-
Romagna. The Celli I Croppi is an eye-opener, a
dry, 14.4 percent alcohol by volume albana with
flavours of apples, peaches and honeydew to go
with salty and savoury notes.
GO + ITALY
1990 Fattoria Paradiso Barbarossa
Fattoria Paradiso cellar
The Ancient Land Of Freedom
The last stop on my tour doesn’t just take me
out of Romagna – it takes me out of Italy. On the
final day, I visit the Most Serene Republic of San
Marino. Covering a tiny 61 square kilometres, San
Marino is home to just over 30,000 people and
is regarded as the world’s oldest sovereign state.
According to tradition, San Marino was founded
in 301 and its current constitution was adopted in
1600. Despite its small size, San Marino has two
microbreweries, Titanbrau (www.titanbrau.com)
and Birrificio Abusivo (www.birrificioabusivo.it).
As luck would have it I get to try both – Titanbrau’s
refreshing Bionda at Bar La Capanna and Birrificio
Abusivo’s English-style bitter Illecita at a beer
and barbecue festival that happens to be taking
place at the time. Looking out over Romagna from
the vantage point of La Capanna, I reflect on the
beauty of the land, its people and its produce.
Like so many others before me, I leave knowing
that I will return. KG
125
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485C : Maxly
Pantone Food
348C Company
Cyan Ltd (+ 852 255 271 28) / Indonesia : Pt. Saranakulina Intisejahtera (+ 6221 86 601 081) /
Laos : Annam Fine Food Laos (+ 856 21 251 803) / Malaysia : Global Pacific Victory (M) Sdn Bhd (+ 603 4292 1266) / Singapore : Classic Fine Foods Singapore (+ 65 6501 5555) /
Thailand : Kim Chua Group Co, Ltd (+ 662 332 840 7) / Taiwan : Gourmet’s Partners Ltd (+ 886 2 2898 248) / Vietnam : Classic Fine Foods Vietnam (+ 84 8 37 40 71 05).
 GO + ITALY
ceramic door plaque

Artisans In
Liguria

Located on the northwestern coast of

*Photography by Qian Leung

Italy, Liguria is hedged by mountain
ridges on one side and the sea on the
other, with a port in the capital of Genoa
that has been of maritime importance
since the 12th century. Also along its
coast is Cinque Terre, literally, ‘five
lands’, a UNESCO heritage site known
for the colourful houses clinging to its
cliffs, which seem to rise dramatically
from the sea. Pesto, pasta, focaccia, and
confectionary feature prominently in
Ligurian cuisine.

Manarola
127
意 H aving tasted trofie with pesto, lasagne with
pesto, and gnocchi with pesto over the course
of several meals in Liguria, the journalists find
themselves quizzing one another on the identities
大 of the seven ingredients required in pesto-making
(answer: basil, pine nuts, parmigiano and pecorino
利 cheeses, salt, garlic, and olive oil). “Basil needs to be
kept fresh; it’s a delicate plant,” says Chef Roberto
记 Panizza of Genovese. “We are using extra virgin
olive oil from Liguria; sweet and delicate, it does
not overpower the taste of the other ingredients.”
Pine nuts used come from Tuscany. Salt is from
Trapani in Sicily, garlic from near the French border,
while the parmigiano and pecorino cheeses are
from Sardinia.

Pansotti, a little pocket of greens and cheese, has

2015 Riviera Ligure di Ponente Terre Bianche
Vermentino, with notes of white blossoms
and brilliant acidity
trofie with pesto
caught my heart. Known as prebuggiun, the mix
of five wild herbs used can range from borages,
nettles, chards, endive, and wild radicchio, to
pimpinella, horseradish, wild poppy, dandelion,
and wild fennel. Prescinseua, a Ligurian cheese, is
used traditionally, and imparts an alluring aroma
to the filled pasta. It is delicious eaten with walnut
sauce. Today, due to the difficulty of getting these
wild herbs and the cheese, a simpler substitute
of spinach and ricotta is commonly used. At
Pasta Fresca Fabio & Alessia, pansotti is made by
folding a square of fresh pasta over the filling, and
overlapping its corners. In restaurants, however,
pansotti might be made by folding a circle into a
crescent instead, to save time. Aside from pansotti,
the fresh pasta workshop also makes croxetti, a
lasagne with pesto
medallion-shaped pasta, trofie, a small, twisted
Ligurian pasta, ravioli, which may be stuffed with
meat or pumpkin, and tagliatelle and taglierini, flat
and round ribbons of egg pasta.

Focaccia seems to be ever present in Liguria. You

can find it in the lovely seaside villages of Manarola
and Portovenere as well, sold in small shops
specialising in it. Indeed, one bite in and there’s no
turning back - the version here is warm and fluffy
with the scent of olive oil and the tang of sea salt.
At Focacceria Sapori di Genova, coarse sea salt and
extra virgin olive oil are used for the classic focaccia,
which is light and springy. Other versions can be
made with sage, onion, and stracchino cheese.
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM focaccia with pesto

Leonardo Gramegna, Articioc
cornetti from Amaretti Besio drinks made from chinotto
For confectionary, stop by Amaretti Besio, which
has been around since 1860. Paola Torello, the
third-generation confectioner, runs the shop with
her son. It had been handed down to her by her
father, and named after her grandmother. In the
beginning, the shop produced candied fruits from
cherries and chinotto, a local citrus. Today, it is
known for amaretti, a soft cookie made from sweet
and bitter almond flour, sugar, and egg white.
After being whisked to a liquid consistency, the
GO + ITALY
mixture is dropped bit by bit onto a base of sugar.
They are then baked for 20 minutes at 200ºC.
You can enjoy them with coffee at tea time. I also
love their capricci, two pieces of meringue held
together with a rum-based chocolate cream, and
robed in dark chocolate. Baci di dama, which
means ‘lady’s kiss’, is another popular treat,
featuring buttery hazelnut cookies kept together
with a dark chocolate paste. They also make
great cornetti, which they call ‘brioche’. These are
golden, flakey rolls filled with custard or chocolate
cream, usually taken at breakfast with cappuccino.
Molto delizioso!
Hidden in a little alleyway is a chocolatier,
which has been around since 1866. Now run by
Alessandro Boccardo, who learned the ropes from
the son of the founder’s brother-in-law, Romeo
Viganotti uses the same method of working with
chocolate from the 19th century. As the antique
machines can only produce 60kg of chocolate
in 60 hours, they are now used for making the
filling only, such as hazelnut or almond cream (the
chocolate is now produced using new machines).
Traditional products include boeri, chocolate-
coated cherries, scorzette, chocolate-coated
orange peel, croccantini, caramelised almonds and
hazelnuts dressed in dark chocolate, cremini, white
chocolate and almond paste with milk chocolate
gianduja, and zuccherini, wedding ring-shaped
lemon cookies.
At 36, fellow chocolatier Leonardo Gramegna of
Articioc is comparably younger. Despite that, he
seems to know exactly what he wants, choosing to
buy hazelnuts, almonds, and olive oil cultivated by
local suppliers instead of multi-national companies.
“The chocolate that you buy from the supermarket,
they may say it is 70 percent pure chocolate,” says
Gramegna. “But they are as different as day and
night to the 70 percent chocolate we make here.”
The chocolates here dissolve in your lips to reveal
many different flavours, such as Ceylon cinnamon,
peppermint, honey, Madagascar vanilla, coconut
flakes, candied ginger, chilli pepper, tonka beans,
Arabica coffee, pistachio cream, chinotto cream,
Himalayan pink salt, absinthe, and even wasabi.
Chinotto, which in appearance reminds me of a
tangerine, and in aroma a yuzu, has grown well
in Savona since the 18th century. It is made into a
cola-like drink, a cream-based liqueur (in taste like
a cross between Cointreau and Baileys), as well as a
liqueur, which reminds one of limoncello.
129
意 Exploring Liguria
Aside from culinary offerings, Genoa is a treat for

大 the eyes, for those of you who love architecture.

Stone sculptures of renaissance angels and

利 beauties adorn the columns and arches of every

记 passion-overflowing tango compositions flowing
pistachio gelato,
calamari in a cone Bar Lamia
(From left to right): Gianpaolo Badino, Confartigianato
Liguria; Gino Angelo Lattanzi, Confederazione Nazionale
dell’Artigianato (CNA); Fouad Hammad, journalist; Marco
Abaton, Il Chinotto nella Rete; Jasmine Goh, journalist;
Ksenia Morozova, ICE Moscow; Matteo Sacchetti, CNA;
Paola Terrile, Genovaguide Tours; Qian Leung, journalist;
Luca Costi, Confartigianato Liguria
other building you may happen to walk by. It is
also a delight to the ears, with tension-filled and
from the arms of street accordion performers.
Cinque Terre, which is an hour away by train, offers
a beauty of a different sort. Pastel-coloured houses
scramble up the hills, while boats cluster on the
shore and sidewalks. I am amused by how boats
are parked right outside homes where city dwellers
are used to seeing cars. In Manarola, visit Trattoria
dal Billy for their tiramisu, a true marvel, while in
Vernazza, drop by Gelateria Il Porticciolo for their
cinnamon and hazelnut gelato. Pick out some
lemon-scented soap as a souvenir in Riomaggiore,
and when you’re hungry, stop by Mamma Mia for
calamari in a cone, hot off the fryer. If you can, stay
in Levanto, a quaint little town one train station
away, and take a ferry ride to Portovenere, which is
full of stone archways and quiet back lanes where
time seems to stand still. I was told to try the local
sweet wine sciacchetrà, but alas, time was short.
Try it for me, dear readers, and I promise to do so
too the next time I come to stay. QL
Cuisine & Wine Asia would like to thank
Liguria International and Italian Trade Commission in
Singapore for making this trip possible.

Places to visit
Amaretti Besio
Via Soriano 16r, 17100 Savona | Tel: (39) 0 1982 0605

Articioc
Via Aonzo 7-9 rr, Savona | Tel: (39) 0 1981 3535

Focacceria Sapori di Genova

Via Fiume, 12, 16121 Genova | Tel: (39) 34 9680 3670

Gelateria Il Porticciolo
Piazza Marconi, 12, 19018 Vernazza | Tel: (39) 33 4932 4632

Genovese
Via Galata 35r, Genova | Tel: (39) 01 0869 2937

Mamma Mia
Via Colombo, 208, 19017 Riomaggiore | Tel: (39) 33 9539 0485

Pasta Fresca Fabio & Alessia

79/R, Via di Canneto Il Lungo, 16123 Genova | Tel: (39) 01 0254 1764

Romeo Viganotti
Vico dei Castagna 14r, 16123 Genoa | Tel: (39) 01 0251 4061 Vernazza
Trattoria dal Billy
Via Aldo Rollandi, 122, 19017 Manarola | Tel: (39) 01 8792 0628

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 GO + MACAU
休
闲
岛
屿

City Of Masks
A mask gives you the
freedom to be whoever you
wanted to be.

From the 13th century to the 18th century, a carnival

existed where people sang and danced on Saint
Mark’s Square in Venice. In meeting places known as
ridotti, beauties maintained an air of mystique with
moretta (a black velvet mask), while nobility wore
bauta (a white mask) when playing card games.

Shoppes At Venetian

Venetian Macao | Estrada da Baia de Nossa, Senhora da Esperanca, Macau | Tel: (853) 2882 8888

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM 131
乐
在
澳 Venetian Macao 'floats' on an outdoor
lagoon the size of eleven Olympic

门 swimming pools.

In the 18th century, Rococo, a feminine and

romantic style of interior decoration, rose in popularity.
Walls were dressed in damask, windows were draped in velvet,
and beds were carved with angels. Furnishings may be carved from
fruitwoods or walnut, and gilded with silver, gold, or bronze.
The suites at Venetian Macao are similarly luxurious,
making you feel like nobility.

Rialto Suite

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

E xpert poker players can probably identify with the
custom. At Venetian Macao, aside from poker,
games such as baccarat, blackjack, and roulette
are also available, along with slot machines. In
16th century travelling theatre tropes, characters
such as Harlequin (witty servant) and Pierrot (sad
clown) fight for the affections of Colombina (free-
spirited maid) behind masks. If you enjoy theatre,
look out for upcoming performances at Venetian
Macao’s Venetian Theatre, which has hosted
musicals such as Beauty & The Beast and ballets
such as Swan Lake in the past, as well as Cotai
Arena, which hosted Korean pop band Big Bang
and singer Rain last year.
The scarcity of land meant that houses built
along the canals were usually tall and narrow,
with windows and balconies designed to let in
as much light as possible. Houses were usually
light and delicate, since they were built on wood
pilings over the water. At Shoppes At Venetian,
you can marvel at the tailoring workmanship
of Fabio Caviglia from Rome, pick out a leather
satchel from Coccinelle from Parma or a leather
messenger bag from Tuscan’s from Florence, and
be dazzled by the gleam of precious stones at
Bulgari from Rome.
GO + MACAU
Jesters started out as entertainers in noble
families. Later, they became travelling
performers to commoners.
The property is quite family-oriented. At indoor
children’s playground Qube, video games, slides,
and ball pools keep little ones happy. At the mini
golf course, both adults and children can play an
18-hole game with a mini golf club. Four outdoor
pools are surrounded by cabanas, which provide
some shade, and be sure to take a gondola ride,
and hear the songs ‘O Sole Mio’ and ‘Santa Lucia’
sung by talented gondoliers. The former is about
the beauty of sunshine, while the latter is about
the sea and the stars, the waves and the winds,
and implores its listeners to ‘come into my nimble
little boat!’
When in Macau, it would be a pity not to visit
Coloane, a short bus ride away from Venetian
Macao. There is a small catholic church, a public
library, a beach, a horse riding school, and a go-
kart track. Time moves slower here, and locals
seem to follow the rhythm of the olden days,
with goodwill and contentment written plainly in
their countenance. Spending time here restores
one’s soul, for sure. And when you have recharged
properly, head back out into Cotai, where Venetian
Macao’s sister property The Parisian has just
opened, and fall through space and time into
another culture and era!
133
乐
在
澳
门
ol
a

diav
al la
pizza

The risotto style is from my

hometown, Abruzzo.
We use clams, mussels, calamari,
octopus, and prawns.
Domenico Ciccetti

en ravioli i
chick nb
ro
t h
risotto ai frutti di mare

Finale Of The Carnival: Feasting

Named after a picturesque seaside village,
Portofino serves hearty Italian food. Chef
Domenico Ciccetti used to help out in the kitchen
with his mother since he was six. “As an apprentice,
I first started off peeling the carrots, onions, and
potatoes,” says Chef Ciccetti. “Until one day, the
chef said, ‘Domenico, come here, I show you one
dish.’” His pizza alla diavola, featuring ventricina
and calabrese spicy salami, is comfort food at
its best. The wagyu beef, braised in red wine
with star anise, cloves, bay leaves, and thyme,
is tender and flavoursome. Other dining options
include Sichuan restaurant North, with noodles,
dumplings, and steamed items, Indian fine dining
The Golden Peacock, with homemade chutneys,
masalas, and paneer, and Irish pub McSorley’s Ale
House, with craft beers, ciders, and single malts.
A personal favourite is Lord Stow’s Bakery, which
does arguably the best Portuguese egg tart in
Macau. QL

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM slow-cooked wagyu beef with baby carrot

 Macau

GO + MACAU
All That
Glitters Is Gold
Portuguese seafarers arrived in Macau in the
1550s, bringing spices and gold from South
America, Africa, India, and Southeast Asia
with them in exchange for silk and porcelain

a
aler
from Chinese merchants. Catholic missionaries
aG
ho followed soon after, setting up churches and
schools. When the Portuguese settlers married
inc

the local Tanka women, spices and ingredients

Gu

,
m
crea from their travels such as turmeric, coconut milk,
e
l ic cinnamon, and bacalhau (dried and salted cod)
carame
fig tart with were used to season and aromatise local seafood
and livestock, becoming what is today known as
Macanese cuisine.

crab salad with tomato water

jelly, avocado mousse &
bloody mary sorbet,
The Tasting Room

135
 乐 F
在 won’t find in Africa or in Portugal. Spring chicken
澳 chilli, peanut butter, and coconut milk till tender
门 Tinto from Douro, Portugal, delicious with notes
suckling pig with black sausage purée
Macanese style roasted
African chicken
WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
or a taste of Macanese cuisine, visit Gosto,
located in Galaxy Macau. Spices from travels
through Africa came to be used in a Macanese
dish named African roast chicken, which you
is pan-seared and baked with a sauce of spices,
and juicy. 2011 Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro
of black cherries, black currant, and black plum,
brings a gentle touch of sweetness. The suckling
pig, which is served with black sausage purée,
had been marinated the Portuguese way, with
peppers, salt, garlic, cilantro, and parsley. Its skin
is light and crackling while the meat is aromatic -
it’s hard to resist a second serving. A 2010 Casal
Santa Maria Pinot Noir Tinto, from Lisboa, Portugal,
starts off prettily with notes of sour cherries and
strawberries and finishes with an alluring touch of
anise - lovely with the richness of the suckling pig.
In Portugal, mothers would make a dessert named
serradura. Milk, egg whites, and sugar are whisked
till creamy, and poured into a tray, with a layer of
chocolate biscuits in the middle, and blended Maria
biscuits on top. It is usually enjoyed with coffee, or
Amarguinha, a bitter almond liqueur usually served
with a squeeze of lemon.
A gem of a Portugese restaurant is hidden in Hotel
Lisboa, named Guincho a Galera. “I first visited
Portugal in my youth, as a backpacker,” says Chef
Simon Li. “After sampling the local cuisine, my
curiosity was aroused. So I went back repeatedly to
learn from local chefs.” A chilled gelatine gazpacho
of tomato soup is served with a fillet of sea bass
crusted with bacalhau, made the traditional way
with cod, potato, eggs, onion, cilantro, and parsley,
and fried till fragrant. Green and black olives perk
up the palate in between bites. “Traditionally,
bacalhau is eaten with olive oil and olives,” explains
Chef Li. Seafood rice with Boston lobster, shrimps,
and mussels is made in the northern Portuguese
style, using Carolina rice. Unlike the arborio rice
used in Italian risotto or the bomba rice used in
Spanish paella, the Carolina rice of the Portugese
arroz de marisco is served soupy. Roasted suckling
pig is served with a croquette of finely chopped
pork trotter and ear. “In Portugal, nothing is ever
wasted,” says Chef Li. Poached figs on filo with
caramel ice cream is paired with 2011 Quinta do
Pôpa Vinho Tinto Doce, a blend of 21 grapes from
vines of 80 years old from Douro Valley, Portugal.
flambéed chouriço with The gently sweet notes of candy shop give way to
Macieira brandy charming acidity and subtle tannins, with a depth
that is thought-provoking and memorable.
 GO + MACAU
Simon Li

seafood rice with Boston lobster,

shrimp & mussel

roasted suckling pig 2011 Pôpa Vinho fig tart with

Tinto Doce caramel ice cream

Guincho a Galera 137

 Within City Of Dreams, two-Michelin-starred

乐 French restaurant The Tasting Room showcases the

creativity of Chef Guillaume Galliot. “The second

在 star is not easy to get.” After a pensive pause, Chef

Galliot adds, “It can, however, be easy to lose.
We continue to work hard.” Alaska king crab with
澳 Gillardeau oyster is served on cucumber jelly and
topped with avocado mousse, green apple sorbet,
门 and caviar. “When I was young I used to play by
the sea in Brittany,” says Chef Galliot. “If you pick
up a rock and sniff or lick it, this is the scent you’d
get.” The scent of seawater. French laksa features
an espuma of dried shrimps, coconut milk, spices,
coriander, curry leaf, and hazelnut. “I love laksa.
One day, while having laksa with my sous chef,
who is from Malaysia, we realised that if we toned
down the spiciness, it could work with our style
of cuisine,” says Chef Galliot. Loire Valley pigeon,
served with potato risotto, had been roasted in
cocoa shell. A half portion of pigeon is seared
before being placed inside a cocoa shell. It is
then bound with twine, and placed in the oven.
The result are juicy morsels of pigeon, with the
faint earthy scent of cocoa. “Every day, we push
the limit,” says Chef Galliot, who is from the Loire
Valley. “The team is like a family. We share the
same spirit.”
Guillaume Galliot

king crab & oyster Loire Valley pigeon Brittany turbot with
with cucumber jelly, roasted in cocoa shell French laksa
avocado mousse &
green apple sorbet

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM contemporary style French onion soup


Raphael Kinimo
With stag antlers over a fireplace and armchairs
draped in sheepskins, Macallan Whisky Bar
transports you to a gentleman’s hunting lodge in
Scotland. The lounge, located by a cigar shop in
Galaxy Macau, carries four hundred selections of
malt whisky. Bourbon Manhattan with Wild Turkey
Bourbon offers the scent of sweet vanilla and
herbs, while red berry field mojito with traditional
Cuban rum brims with notes of strawberries and
raspberries. Passionately sparkling, a cocktail with
a base of passion fruit, white peach, and grapefruit
topped with Tanqueray gin and prosecco, is popular
with the ladies. Gentlemen usually go for the Old
Fashioned Experience. “We prepare it tableside,
with the trolley,” says Christian Eggers, beverage
manager. “You can choose the kind of spirit you’d
like - whisky, Cognac, rum, bourbon.” Homemade
Macallan bitters, with notes of chocolate, cherry
liqueur, lemon, and orange, is first added to a
crystal glass, with a little sugar. Lemon, orange, and
a dash of soda water are then added, and stirred.
Finally, your selection, say, Glenlivet 12 Year Old
single malt, is added.
With gleaming marble, frosted glass, gilded
GO + MACAU
mirrors, and teardrop chandeliers, the Ritz-Carlton
Café reminds one of the grandeur of Palace of
Versailles. At the same time it is a cosy brasserie,
where you can order a breakfast of omelette with
comté cheese, a lunch of steak frites, or a dinner
of French onion soup and pan-fried foie gras with
griotte cherries. During tea time, try the signature
Valrhona hot chocolate. The chocolate is first melted
over a bain marie, before being slowly stirred into
hot milk, and topped with homemade whipped
cream and milk chocolate shavings. Thick and
intense, with a complexity of flavour, the chocolate
is a rhapsody of toasty, smoky notes mingling with
an alluring acidity. “In France, we have confiserie
(confectionary such as candied fruits, nougat, and
toffees) which we buy in a box,” says Chef Raphael
Kinimo. “We wanted to bring back this memory.”
A vintage tin box contains pistachio and orange
financiers, madeleines, cannelle mini choux,
pumpkin sable, and chocolate praline, which
are served with savouries such as leek tart, ham
baguette, salmon and dill on rye, foie gras on toast
and camembert cheese croquettes. Aside from the
five establishments mentioned here, Macau also
has family-run restaurants tucked away in back
alleys serving roasted pigeon and pork chops, a
wine bar featuring over 400 Portuguese labels,
and old-school eateries specialising in Alentejo
(southern Portuguese) cuisine, such as salted cod
with scrambled eggs, roasted sardines, and steak
with coffee sauce. Be sure to explore these as well,
and discover your own hidden gems! QL
Featured Restaurants
Gosto
G011, G/F, Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau
Tel: (853) 8883 2221
Guincho a Galera
3/F Lisboa Tower, Hotel Lisboa 2 - 4 Avenida de Lisboa
Tel: (853) 8803 7676
Macallan Whisky Bar
203, 2/F, Galaxy Macau Cotai, Macau
Tel: (853) 8883 2221
The Ritz-Carlton Café
G/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Macau
Tel: (853) 8886 6868
The Tasting Room
Level 3, Crown Towers Estrada do Istmo Cotai, Macau
Tel: (853) 8868 6681
139
 Umami Of The Sea

TABLE + TALK
Together with our panel tasters of
esteemed Chinese chefs – Chan Kung
Lai of Yàn, Martn Foo of VLV Singapore,
Eric Low of LUSH Epicurean and Kong
Kok Kiang of One Farrer Hotel & Spa,
we bring you the lowdown of one of
Singapore’s most commonly used sauce
in Chinese cooking – oyster sauce. OT

Chef Martn Foo

ble by
geta
t ve
oo
&r
ry
er

l
f

m
wo
ho

em
e
a de es
dee , Chin
p-fr
ied c oom
harcoal tofu with mushr

Teochew-style ‘siu mai’ with oyster-sauce braised baby abalone by Chef Eric Low 141
蠔 Oyster sauce is so versatile,
有 it adds umami to a lot of dishes
that may be bland.
风 The seafood base in oyster sauce
enhances all the flavours
Eric Low

味 of the ingredients.
Chan Kung Lai

There are many grades of

oyster sauces out there, so choosing
the right one is very important for
Oyster sauce is one the most used sauce the final result of your dish.
in Chinese and Asian cuisines. Martin Foo
It’s simple to use and full of flavour that goes
well with many ingredients.
Kong Kok Kiang

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM
 Tasting Note

TABLE + TALK
Vegetarian Oyster Flavoured Sauce
3.0 (Lee Kum Kee)
It was apparent that our chefs did not partcularly
enjoy this sauce. Chef Eric Low finds it to be low in
umami, but had aromas and flavours of mushrooms
such as shiitake and porcini. Chef Kong Kok Kiang
thinks that it has a nice colour, and also agrees on
the tastes of mushrooms. Chef Chan Kung Lai and
Chef Martn Foo both find the sauce to be sweet
smelling, and mutually agreed that it did not have
a enjoyable flavour.

3.6 Panda Brand Oyster Sauce

(Lee Kum Kee)
This oyster sauce was a favourite with Chef Foo,
as he finds a pleasant oyster flavour. This was,
however, not quite to the standards of Chef Chan,
as he notes that it was too salty. Chef Low and
Chef Kong both enjoy this sauce, highlightng that
it tasted good despite being slightly too salty.

Kee Golden Vegetarian Flavoured

2.8 Sauce With Mushrooms
(Lee Kum Kee)
Chef Chan finds the sauce grainy and did not enjoy
its flavour, as echoed by Chef Foo. The sauce had a
bright colour for him, however was too salty. Chef
Kong, however, finds this sauce to have a pleasant
mushroom bite.

Oyster Sauce With Dried Scallop

3.5 (Lee Kum Kee)
Our chefs immediately spot the scallop threads
in the sauce, and have seemed to enjoy this one.
Chef Kong finds that the oyster flavour was not
strong enough, but loved the scallop flavour. Chef
Low finds the sauce to be sweet and high in salt
content. On the other hand, Chef Chan dislikes
this sauce, finding its texture too grainy and had
a weak taste.

Premium Brand Oyster Sauce

3.9 (Lee Kum Kee)
This oyster sauce was a favourite among our chefs.
Chef Low finds this to have an intense smoky
cuttlefish aroma and hints of fermented shrimp
paste (locally known as belachan). He, along with the
other chefs find this flavour to have intense umami.

Singapore-style char kway teow Oyster sauce rating based on 5-pointers. 143
by Chef Kong Kok Kiang
 Oyster Sauce
蠔 (Maggi)
Chef Kong finds the sauce slightly
有 2.7 too starchy for his liking with a mild
oyster smell and flavour. It was too
风 salty for Chef Foo with weak oyster
flavour, as agreed with Chef Chan.
味 Chef Low finds the sauce to have
smoky aromas with sweet dried
prawn notes.
Oyster Sauce
(Giant)
2.5 All our chefs had similar notes for
this oyster sauce – finding it to
have a mild fragrance and a weak
oyster flavour, with it being more
sweet rather than salty.
str-fry beef tenderloin with crispy garlic chip,
bell pepper & mushroom by Chef Martn Foo
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Premium Oyster Sauce
(New Moon)
Chef Chan finds this oyster sauce to have a
dull colour, with a sour taste. Chef Foo and
Chef Kong both agree that it had a weak
2.6
oyster flavour, while Chef Low finds a mild
prawn paste flavour.
Mushroom Vegetarian Oyster
Sauce (Bachun)
Chef Low finds this sauce to have yeasty
aromas, low umami flavours of soy sauce as 2.6
well as sweet notes. Chef Kong agrees with
this, but adds that there is a weak oyster
flavour, which is agreed by Chef Foo and
Chef Chan.
Oyster Flavoured Sauce
(Patchun)
It was apparent to our panel chefs that
this sauce had an intense, dark colour and 2.7
a thick, starchy consistency. They all find it
to be highly salty due to an overpowering
soy sauce flavour. It faired decent with Chef
Kong and Chef Low, however Chef Foo and
Chef Chan beg to differ.
Oyster Sauce
(Kikkoman) 3.0
The panel mutually concludes that this
sauce had a watery consistency. It had a
smoky, umami flavour with hints of bonito
and dried fish.
 Fragrant Smoky

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Sweet

Salty

Oyster Sauce (Sin Guo)

Chef Kong finds this oyster sauce to be
partcularly pleasant in terms of aroma and
flavour. Chef Low finds a hint of dried clams 2.8
as well as scallops. However, it was too weak
for Chef Chan and Chef Foo.

Shiitake Mushroom Vegetarian

Oyster Flavoured Sauce
(Woh Hup) 2.7
Chef Foo finds that this sauce was not to his
liking, notng that it had no oyster flavour. Chef
Chan agrees with him, while Chef Kong notes
a mild sweetness and Chef Low detects a fresh
prawn flavour.

Oyster Sauce (Woh Hup)

The light brown sauce was apparently salty for
all our chefs. It had a mild aroma, however it 2.7
was clear that it was not partcularly enjoyed.

Oyster Sauce Extra Flavour

(Woh Hup)
Our chefs find that this oyster sauce has a light
golden colour, with a good smooth texture. 3.6
Chef Kong Kok Kiang finds it to be fragrant,
with a balanced flavour, although the oyster
flavour was slightly weak for him. Chef Foo
echoed this, finding it not to have enough of
the oyster flavours.

Cuisine & Wine Asia would like to thank

pan-fried clam with black bean sauce
by Chef Chan Kung Lai
Auric Pacific Group (www.auricgroup.com)
for the kind support of this artcle,
and VLV Singapore for
graciously hostng the tastng session.
VLV Singapore is located at
3A River Valley Road #01-02, Singapore 179020
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名
厨
开 名气，锅气，人气，
馆
一气呵成
一位 出色的师傅，在餐饮行业无论是
从最初的学徒开始做起，还是平
地一声雷的爆红，最终都希望拥有自己的梦想
另一位名厨郭文秀，选择了在拥有许多特色的
老店的牛车水开设餐厅。和以往不同的是，郭
师博这次走的是“平民百姓”路线，虽然开的
世界。也许是我们待在新加坡太久了，所以常 是波多尔酒吧，但里面所卖的价钱是非常值得
被美食“围绕”的我们已经习以为常，但却会 推荐的。没有太多“精致餐厅”的料理摆盘，
一直发现，我们的国外朋友或者媒体会告诉我 但却拥有实实在在的下酒小菜。在这充满古色
们，能够到新加坡品尝到新加坡的美食是人生 古香的建筑，喝着法国红酒，加上朴实的佳
一大享受。 肴，我想这就是所谓的独特体验了。

随着本地的餐厅越来越多元化，再加上用餐的 拥有四十多年烹饪经验的大师 Otto Weibel 就

环境，刺激了餐饮业在这市场上活跃起来。业 选择荷兰村的购物商场开业。虽然生为瑞士
者除了会把餐厅开设在购物广场内，并提供购 籍的大厨，但一直把新加坡当成是自己的
物者在购物时也能有个优质的餐厅歇息，当然 家。拍摄采访当天，看着他什么东西都亲力
重点还是品尝餐厅的美食。除了在购物商城开 亲为，没有什么大厨的架子，也没有老板一
设，在拥有“老牌”复古店屋开餐厅，也是一 脸傲气的态度，只是仔细的和员工讲解一切
种趋势。以前总会认为这样的“老店屋”只有 他所分配的事务。曾经在酒店担任管理业务
成年人或者老年人喜欢，但最近却看到越来越 的大厨，现在拥有了自己的餐厅，虽然不再
多的年轻人爱上了“老店”。采访了他们才得 走“纯”精致餐饮的路线，但他说，食材的
知，原来他们喜欢拥有复古的味道但却拥有全 精致更为重要。走着休闲餐饮路线，让走进
新灵魂的餐厅。 餐厅用餐的食客，可以品尝五星级的料理，
却没有在五星级餐厅的约束。
拥有新加坡“甜蜜教主”的甜厨黄慧娴，就在
新加坡国家博物馆开设了一家拥有许多“慧娴 如果你只想吃点小吃，喝点小酒，13% Gastro
风格”的餐厅。进军餐饮业的甜厨，除了主打 Wine 是个不错的选择。在老店屋的二楼，拥有
她许多的招牌甜点之外，这次更加入了可以让 许多芝士和奶酪供你挑选，热食方面，香烤八
你吃得饱的餐食。加大团队的力量之后，慧娴 爪章鱼是小编激力推见。无论怎样的餐厅，怎
也把调酒师的鸡尾酒和她的美食或甜甜做了另 样的氛围，只有你亲自体验，才方知他独特之
一种层次聚拢。餐厅的卖点除了精美的食物， 处。志偉
还有就是她亲手布置，充满艺术气息的餐厅。
把美食艺术的魅力展现在餐厅里，让食客走进
餐厅时，会发现博物馆和餐厅是连接起来的。

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147
 TABLE + MENU

Neighbourhood Deli

Otto’s Deli Fresh |118 Holland Avenue, #02-01 Raffles at Holland Village, Singapore 278997 | Tel: (65) 6694 3291

149
名
厨 grilled Fremantle octopus salad heritage US kurobuta pork rack

开
馆

burnt banana waffle

pressed beef steak ciabatta

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

T he pioneer generation of chefs in Singapore
are more than familiar with the name Otto
Weibel. The Swiss-born chef has done more
than his fairshare of mentoring and building up
the gastronomic scene on our little island. After
decades spent running the kitchens in hotels, and
a successful partnership which has produced Osia
Steak and Seafood Grill, he decided to open his very
first eponymous restaurant. “Success doesn’t come
from luck. It only comes from being organised and
working hard,” Chef Weibel shares. The 46-seater
deli and all-day restaurant was inspired by Chef
Weibel’s vision of bringing people together by
means of good food as well as a platform for guiding
aspiring young chefs. Located in Holland Village it’s
close to the community – easily accessible and a
great place for families and friends to dine in. The
menu is simple and familiar enough that diners
know what to expect, yet sufficiently diverse to
offer a choice for everyone. Helming the kitchen
is Chef Weibel’s trusted chef de cuisine, Rick Chow
who was chosen after an intense battle, shares his
philosophy. Read through as we share with you
Chef Weibel’s some of favourite dishes.
His favourite salad is the SGD$17 grilled Fremantle
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octopus salad. The octopus is sous vided for two
hours and then grilled just before serving. The
octopus jus procured from the sous vide process
is kept to be mixed with lemon juice and olive oil,
thus becoming a dressing for the salad. Tossed in
with baby spinach and green apple slices, it’s a
refreshing salad that goes well with Chef Weibel’s
favourite lemonade priced at SGD$9.50. From the
sandwich and burger section, Chef Weibel loves
the SGD$20 pressed beef steak ciabatta. Bresaola
beef and Australian hanger steak are smothered
in a house-made barbecue sauce, topped with
caramelised onions and Gruyère cheese before
being pressed to crisp perfection. Served with a
side of hand-cut fries and salad, it’s a complete
meal. The heritage US kurobuta pork rack is Chef
Weibel’s value for money dish priced at SGD$39 for
300g. Grilled briefly and finished in the oven, the
pork rack glistens with its own fat and oozes natural
flavour with every bite. Hand-cut fries and a side
salad accompany the dish together with the house-
made barbecue sauce. Chef Weibel recommends
having a glass of red wine to go with this dish.
It’s a neighborhood bistro in which
we serve high-quality food in a cozy and
casual atmosphere at reasonable prices.
I’ve always been working in hotels and I
wanted to open something
very small, nothing glamorous.
With simple food that is cooked well.
It’s something that’s my own.
Otto Weibel
A beautifully rich Varlhona chocolate drink is
topped with hazelnut cream espuma and crunchy
pearls. Accented with sea salt, it’s the drink to go
with the burnt banana waffle. Or you can have it
on its own priced at SGD$9.50 for a hot drink and
SGD$12.50 for an iced version. The burnt banana
waffle, SGD$11.50 is dense and flavourful. Take a
bite with the peanut butter gelato, and it’s tastes
even better. The burnt banana is sweet and has an
almost charred taste to complete the experience.
The deli also has an array of offerings and guests
have the option of getting their purchases cooked
on the spot for an additional fee. “It’s back to
basics with food that is simple, yet perfectly done.
We use better products with value for money
prices.” Chef Weibel says. That’s it folks! You know
where to go to try this amazing chef’s food. DD
151
名

heirloom tomato sala

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厨
开

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raspberry vinaigrette

charcoal grilled European leek,

French Nibbles
Bordeaux Wines

oeûf cassé (poached egg) roasted

hazelnut & oil, Himalayan salt
&
Grignoter|2 Teck Lim Road, Singapore 088380 | Tel: (65) 6438 3802

WWW.ASIACUISINE.COM

Passion on a plate.
Justin Quek
T he opening of this establishment for him was
rather personal. He says, “I’ve been a friend of
Bordeaux for years. A dear friend of mine for more
than ten years, Christophe Château works for Le
Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux, or
CIVB. We’ve done wine events together in Hong
Kong, Taipei and Shanghai. CIVB aims to promote
the lesser known winemakers that don’t have
the budget for marketing in an inexpensive way. I
credit Bordeaux and they take care of me. They’re
expanding now, and I wanted to have a Singapore
chapter.” Chef Quek is known for being classically
French trained. He tells us that he has been
exposed to wines since the days he was the chef
de cuisine at Les Amis, now a two-Michelin-starred
restaurant. “Wine is a part of my life. When I cook,
I always think of wine. Food goes well with wine,
after all!” Chef Quek is also the principal chef of Sky
On 57, a fine-dining establishment that has a very
different concept from Grignoter. “Here, I want to
share with people what good, basic French fare
made with passion is. I import quality ingredients
from France, Netherlands and Italy. We use real
charcoal for our food. I go to the markets to source
for fresh ingredients.
The chicken liver on the menu is fresh. Everything is
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homemade and very reasonably priced.”The menu
is bilingual, but that’s not the thing that would catch
your eye. The prices are not what you’d expect from
a restaurant of such a distinguished, talented chef.
Charcoal-grilled Bordeaux glazed chicken livers,
priced at SGD$6 for two sticks is an example of the
unbelievable price. The lovely and knowledgeable
restaurant manager, Aisha Khan recommends 2010
Château Gadet Terrefort, Cru Artisan as the wine
to go with the chicken livers. The delicate, savoury
wine is well balanced and goes well from beginning
to end. The tasting menu is priced at SGD$68 for
dinner. Opting for this takes you through a tantalising
journey of three flights – two to three courses each
flight for sharing. If you’re there at the right season,
you can feast on the heirloom tomatoes salad
with confit cherry tomatoes, raspberry vinaigrette,
Parmesan chips and Parmesan ice cream. Done
with minimal techniques here to ensure that the
sweetness of the heirloom tomatoes don’t get
overwhelmed by other flavours, the salad is light
and delicious. Khan says that the 2014 Chateau
Tour de Mirambeau Blanc is the perfect match to
start off the evening with or without the salad.
Light on the nose with a slightly floral and decent
bouquet, it’s reminiscent of pears and green apples
– acidic but sweet with a dry aftertaste.
“I’m here to share my experience with the young
cooks. I want simplicity, but within that, I want
perfection. Singapore is a gastronomic destination
and because of that, I need to bring back my classic
recipes. We don’t want to serve food that everybody
knows and the same goes for our wines. We want
to let people discover Bordeaux wines over house-
made bites that can cost as little as SDG$6! Up to
today, everybody that has walked in loves us. I told
the team to be sincere and to serve from their
heart. Of course we can’t please everybody, but it’s
our responsibility to try. The dishes here are proven
through time. The menu is product driven with
the right combinations that I draw upon from my
experience,” explains Chef Quek when asked about
the inspiration behind the menu.
Available on the regular menu for SGD$13 is the
charcoal -grilled leeks with a poached egg. Perfumed
with hazelnut oil and with the crunch of hazelnuts
plus the molten yolk, this amazing combination is
elevated with a glass of the velvety Poupille, 2004
Cotes de Castillon. Khan mentions that it’s the most
sought after wine as it ‘over delivers’ in terms of
quality for price.
153
 Mr Rolland aka RC is a close friend who has known Chef
名 Quek for many years tells us, “The flavours are very
consistent. Everytime I eat here, the food always tastes
厨 the same. It’s fine-dining quality at kopitiam price!
Even the portions are generous.” The dessert called JQ

开 floating island, SGD$12 arrives when he made the last

comment. Caramelised crispy rice is strewn over a soft
meringue which sits in a vanilla bean sauce. Cut into it
馆 and a secret surprise of raspberry coulis oozes out. The
medium-bodied 2009 Château Laville Sauternes is rich
and voluptuous. With hints of caramelised orange and
pineapple, it lingers throughout and has a long finish,

& vanilla sauce

simply superb with the desserts there! “Our food is
rustic. I’m a pretty simple chef. I want to make a lot of
people happy with quality food. If the food isn’t done
properly, that is not marinated for a sufficient amount

line
of time, I’ll tell them not to sell because it will be

pra
lis, inconsistent. I’ll teach them everything they ask me for.
The point of this place is for me to share my experience
ou

flo
JQ

with the younger chefs as well as to let people educate

yc

ati rr
ng pbe themselves on the intricate art of appreciating wines.
isa s
lnd , ra
with spy rice Especially the ones from Bordeaux,” Chef Quek ends
caramelised cri
enthusiastically on that note. DD

d marinated fresh
oal grille c hic k
charc e n li
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&
13% Gastro 100% Quality

13% Gastro Wine| 117 Killiney Road, Singapore 239554 | Tel: (65) 6694 4708

155
名
厨
开
馆

tomato confit on puff pastry with

Italian burrata, balsamic vinegar & pine nut 13% platter of cheese

We want our customers to come and enjoy

quality food and wine, but at great prices.
Geoffrey Weckx

char-grilled octopus marinated with

olive oil & Spanish paprika

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Y ou may have already heard of 13% Gastro
Wine that was opened in Aliwal Street. The
quaint bar and restaurant was the brainchild
of Chef Geoffrey Weckx and his partner – a
wine sommelier, Bruno Vaillant. It bodes of a
welcoming atmosphere and serves up wines from
the duo’s favourite vineyards from all over the
world, together with simply unpretentious and
comforting dishes of premium quality.
The pair has now moved on to open their second
outlet at Killiney Road – adding on to the list of
the many food and beverage (F&B) establishments
along the same stretch. Still keeping to its
philosophy of nothing but quality food, Chef
Weckx presents us 13%’s platter of cheeses, priced
at SGD$42. He imports 13 different types directly
from France, and puts together a soft and hard
variant each from cow, goat and sheep cheeses,
which customers may also choose to their liking.
He explains that this to ensure the customer has
an experience with different textures. Vaillant
recommends the Chablis Grand Cru for the wine
pairing, as its oak finishing pairs perfectly with the
acidity of the cheeses. Chef Weckx then brings
out his charcuterie platter, SGD$58 of 13 different
types of homemade terrines. Chef is proud of this
dish, and understandably so, as each component
has the perfect balance of flavour. It is made up
of veal, pork rillettes, pork terrine, foie gras and
chicken liver. Iberico ham and sliced chorizo is
The quality of the wine or liquor is important to determine
good flavours in our terrines. The wines used are all taken
from our list here, so you know what exactly is going in.
Bruno Vaillant
charcuterie platter
also served on the platter. “Technique is key when
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making these terrines,” says Chef Weckx, with
Vaillant chiming in that “the quality of the wine or
liquor is important to determine a good flavour”.
With such heavily seasoned meats, he then
suggests that a merlot-based wine such as the
Saint-Emilion Grand Cru pairs well as it is light and
not overpowering. From meats, it was now time
for some seafood. A juicy, generous portion of
grilled octopus, priced at SGD$38 is served. It has
perfect char on the outside and is finished off in
the oven, all lending a beautifully intense, smoky
aroma. The octopus is marinated simply with salt
and pepper, as well as olive oil and some Spanish
paprika for a little kick. The Zarate Albariño is the
recommended wine pairing for this dish, as it is
a dry wine that has aromatic grapes that always
complements with seafood.
Finally, a beautiful tomato dish is served up.
Drawing inspiration from a tartine, Chef Weckx
had created this dish with tomato confit topped
over puff pastry with a portion of Italian burrata.
The fattiness of the cheese coats the sweetness
of the tomatoes, and drizzled with balsamic
vinegar as well as pine nuts for crunch. It is priced
at SGD$23 with the combination of sweetness
and tartness, Vaillant recommends pairing this
dish with the Pierre Moncuit Brut Champagne
as its high acidity level counters the flavours and
balances it perfectly. OT
157
名
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开
Janice's Playground
馆 For You To Have
Some Edible Fun
W hen a space unexpectedly opened up in
the National Museum of Singapore, Chef
Janice Wong had to take it up. "This is just perfect
for my food art! Not only do I do desserts, but I
also do the art for the edible exhibitions. This is a
playground for me." Having opened another two
establishments in both Hong Kong and Japan this
year, Chef Wong has decided that this – Janice
Wong Singapore would be her flagship.

But perhaps what we should really

ask is this: why should there be
boundaries between food and art –
or anything at all?
When you free yourself from limitations,
the possibilities are endless.
Janice Wong

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The space is brightly lit and the clear display cases
hold within them imaginative ice cream flavours
like rice lemongrass, blue lavender yoghurt sorbet
to familiar flavours from your childhood: peanut
butter jelly and smores. Hand-painted bon bons
resembling jewels filled with unusual fillings as
well as classic favourites are also housed within
the display cases. Cookies and unique teas line
the counters, giving a wide range of options for
whatever one craves. Her second eponymous
establishment showcases the dynamic teamwork
within the company, “We may be small, but we
don’t think small. You won’t find us doing normal
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cacao forest - earl grey bergamot chocolate mousse,
fruit of the forest & cherry, créme de cacao liqueur,
miso, vanilla whisky ice cream & cotton candy
things. I wanted to make a change. Although we
can do desserts like macarons, we won’t. We will
keep moving forward.” Dim sum lovers jaded of the
usual affair can now head here to try Chef Wong
and her Chef de Cuisine Ma Jian Jun’s innovative,
almost-too-pretty-to-eat dim sums! For SGD$15,
one could try five unique skins textures with
fillings like: ratatouille, potato and cured pork,
chicken, scallop and prawns as well as mushrooms.
The charismatic bar manager – Alias Ortega Castro
started work in the food and beverage (F&B)
industry since he was seventeen.
159
 Having received guidance from Mark Alvarez,

名 head bartender and mixologist at world famous

41 degrees experience, he embodies the same

厨 passion as Chef Wong. He served up an elegantly

carved ‘diamond’ ice with strong flavours in a
cocktail called Amargo. The crispy charcoal nest,
开 SGD$22 is an astute example of Chef Wong’s food
philosophy: flavour, temperature, texture, and
馆 aesthetics. She shares, “Flavour is so important –
that’s what you remember most. After all people
don’t come back for aesthetics, they come back for
the flavours.” When a rich collagen broth boiled for
48 hours is poured unto freshly made dehydrated
noodles, magic happens. A ‘mushroom poem
paper’ with the words from Henry David Thoreau,
softens under the heat of the wholesome broth.
The Mist is a cocktail which has tea leaves burned
into the glass to create a smoky effect – it’s an
experience by aromas and a balance of flavours.
Cacao Forest is a complex dessert priced at SGD$24
with numerous components coming together.

signature 5 dumplings: elastic - ratatouille,

crystal - scallop prawn, transparent - mushroom,
matt - chicken & crispy skin - potato cured pork

mango bubble bath - mango cream,

spiced hazelnut & sake ice cream Crème de cacao liqueur is poured unto the fuzz of
cotton candy melding the flavours together. Last
Call is a cocktail that was part of Castro’s childhood
– his grandmother used to make this as a mocktail
for him. He presents this for guests when they
place requests at Janice Wong Singapore. Dessert
being Chef Wong’s forte, it wouldn’t do to not
have dessert degustation menu. Mango bubble
bath is part of the degustation menu priced at
SGD$68. Hiding beneath the bubbles is a textural
dessert with spiced hazelnuts and sake ice cream.
It goes well with Sailor Mary Gin, a strong aromatic
cocktail that makes use of two different spirits.
With the team’s passion to constantly research
and develop new techniques as well as recipes for
food and desserts, one can be assured that a trip
to Janice Wong Singapore is never ever going to
be dull! DD
crispy charcoal nest - pork belly, collagen broth
& mushroom poem paper Janice Wong Singapore
93 Stamford Road, 01-06, Singapore 178897
Tel: (65) 9712 5338
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 United Nations of
Gastronomic Assembly