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For a detailed description of every exercise listed above, see Eric Hörst's Training for Climb
s Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017). Learn more at: w
ng Program -- www.Training4Climbing.com (Copyright 2016 - All Rights Reserved)
Power-Training Exercises
Finger Flexors REPS SETS
One-Arm Traversing 6 - 12 moves 2-3
One-Arm Lunging 6 - 12 moves 2-3
Campus Board (CB) “Bumps” 2 - 4 sets each side
CB Laddering (no skips, smallish rungs) up only 3 - 10
CB “Switch Hands” 6 - 12 moves 2-5
CB Double Dynos (smallish rungs) 6 - 12 moves 2-5
HIT System Pinch Hold Double Dynos 3 - 6 moves 2-3
Arms & Torso REPS SETS
Big-Move Boulder Problems 4 - 8 moves 3-8
Power Pull-Up (Chest-Bump) 5 - 12 1-3
Gym Rope Climbing sprint to top 3-8
CB “Laddering” (larger rungs w/ skips) 3 - 6 moves 3 - 10
Clap Pull-Ups 3-6 2-3
Boulder Campusing (Monkey Biz) 3 - 8 moves 3 - 10
CB Double Dynos (Large Rungs 5 - 9 moves 1-5
DURATION
Phase 1 4 weeks
Phase 2 3 weeks
Phase 3 2 weeks
Phase 4 1 week
DURATION
Phase 1 3 weeks
Phase 2 2 weeks
Phase 3 1 week
SESSIONS/WEEK
1 - 2 sessions/week
1 - 2 sessions/week
1 - 2 sessions/week
2 days/week
raining for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive g
TRAINING FOCUS
High volume submaximal climbing to develop skill, refine technique & mental skills, and build local & general aerobic system.
Relatively low volume maximum strength and power training - targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system.
Moderate volume strength- and power-endurance training - many pumpy climbs & exercises that target the anaerobic lactic sy
Pre-trip or pre-comp taper…or 3 to 7 days of active reecovery & rest (before returning to Phase 1 of a next cycle)
TRAINING FOCUS
Relatively low volume maximum strength and power training - targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system.
Moderate volume strength- and power-endurance training - many pumpy climbs & exercises that target the anaerobic lactic sy
Pre-trip or pre-comp taper…or 3 to 7 days of active reecovery & rest (before returning to Phase 1 of a next cycle)
d edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at:
lactic system.
MICROCYCLE #1
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (non-performance/indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
MICROCYCLE #2
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
MICROCYCLE #3
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors)
Climbing-Specific Exercises
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
MICROCYCLE #4
Training Activity MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY
Performance Climbing (Outside)
Climbing (indoors) Hardest Light-Mod
Climbing-Specific Exercises Hardest Light & low-vol.
Core Exercises
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises
Generalized Aerobic Conditioning
limbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Lea
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SATURDAY SUNDAY
SATURDAY SUNDAY
Hardest
Hardest
SATURDAY SUNDAY
Hardest
Hardest
See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017)
Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | ww
imum strength & power, specifically targeting the anaerobic alactic energy system, with brief (5 - 20 sec.) near-maximal exercise.
WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS
xercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. Learn more at: www.Training4Climbing.com
t | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com
Finger Flexor Strength/Power-Endurance Exercises (15 - 20 minutes) WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
10 2 - 4 sets of Long-Duration Fingerboard Repeaters (hang 30"/rest 30" on good holds), per TFC book
(Substitute another exercise, if you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)
Pull-Muscle Exercises (10 - 20 minutes) REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
11 "Square Dance" Pull-ups 2 - 4 reps/set 1-2
12a 2 - 3 sets of Frenchies, or…. 30 - 90 secs/set 2-3
12b 2 - 3 large-hold "Ladder Laps" on campus board 30 - 90 secs/set 2-3
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)
Core Exercises (15 - 25 minutes) REPS SETS REPS - SETS REPS - SETS
13 Windshield Wipers 6 - 12 1-2
14 Supermans 16 - 20 1-2
15 Hanging Knee Lifts 12 - 20 1-2
16 Mountain Climber Plank 20 - 30 1
17 Feet-up Crunches 25 - 50 2-3
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)
See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance. L
60 - 120 minutes (combine climbing & belaying) Submaximal Roped Climbing (NO deep pump & NO climbing to failure--Important!) ROUTES/LAPS
7 With a partner, alternate climbing laps on "moderate" roped routes (2 to 4 number grades below your redpoint limit).
NOTES: 1. To properly target the aerobic energy system you should only get a light to moderate pump (6 to 8 on a scale of 1 to 10)
2. Judge your workout by "mileage" not pump--build up to 1,000 feet of moderate climbing per session!
3. Protocal: Alternate (with partner) doing 15 - 20 minutes of easier climbing OR moderately difficult climbs lasting 3 - 5 minu
4. Alternatively, you can use a Treadwall…climbing intervals on large holds, but resting frequently to keep pump btwn "6" - "8"
See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive gui
ning4Climbing.com
USE
"Intermediate" Program [5.11 - 5.13a & V4-V8 ability] - Stabilizer/Antagon
WORKOUT GOALS: Increase strength and endurance in the vital stabilizer & antagonist muscles of the arms, shoulders, and torso.
NOTE: If you are a serious climber, then this is your most important workout--do it twice per week!
Workout with Climbing (0.75- 1.5 hours)
DATE DATE
General Warm-up Activity, including Mobility/Flexibility Exercises (10 - 20 miuntes)
1 5 - 10 minutes of jogging, rowing, or other aerobic activity
2 5 - 10 minutes of mild hip, torso, shoulder, arm, and finger stretching
Antagonist/Stabilizer Exercises (25 - 45 minutes) REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
3 Shoulder Press 15 - 20 1-2
4 Bench Press 12 - 16 1-2
5 Finger band extensions 15 - 20 1-2
6 Reverse Wrist Curls 15 - 20 2
7 TRX/Sling Trainer "Ts" 6 - 12 2
8 TRX/Sling Trainer "Ys" 6 - 12 2
9 Dips 8 - 15 2-3
10 Dumbbell External Rotation 20 - 25 2
11 Dumbbell Internal Rotation 20 - 25 2
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)
Total Core Exercises (20 - 40 minutes) - OPTIONAL REPS SETS WT - REPS - SETS WT - REPS - SETS
12 Sumo Deadlift 15-Oct 1
13 Squat 5-8 2
14 Barbell Deadlift 3-6 2-3
(Substitute other exercises, as you like, from the Exercise Directory tab.)
See Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing (3rd edition) or The Rock Climber's Exercise Guide (2017) for comprehensive guidance.
Copyright 2016 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved | www.Training4Climbing.com